The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 5, 1899, Page 28

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL. SUNDAY, FEBRUARY to have the ayed for | s not a joy | the shop- | pportunity A boxes that secure in my curi- contents | If the them was not | it was because 1 nless adorning a s ess to awaken a sive chor But even the 1 masculine indif- labors with to public view. ntly not s formerly made up of ound, with same or a con- t which many plain colors, a color, make wais’ The remarkable for and d gn, SO tw ste you a not all w alize. But anything which can be under | 1ame gener: pleasing | T stes will be sold from 50 to 80 n yard The higher priced are 1d since it takes so little mate- atterns it is well worth them. r the who do not like 1 N will be Swiss 1 roll designs, T s lka dots which are charm- But p t of all for the coming shirt silk and Ynen material. it new. a weave néver before been ne and glossy, and ts =heen and elegance frequent introductions It is shown in a variety embroidered designs and absolut h very d nd from $2 to $3 a yard. New Patterns for Shirt Waists | are used for shirt be made up on the bias. under the belt in | no longer being | The sleeves | | l BORIBIAND | it fi"“\ X a U3 AR i ol A £ Black and White Striped Silk Waist, " week 1 g whiff of | fashions breezes of will_ca 1 their wake. | 1 inere zephyr, though, | yu shall have a | silk: | bination. | tiful shade | pliqued in £ { and paints half the Gown. those of Typical Paris Princesse are just a trifle smaller than last season. Rather small patterns prevail ‘among the new China silks. Foulards will make new bid for popularity and will un- »dly gain favor, for the new ones quisite satin finish and instead ol design ma show polka varying - sizes grouped together with scattering dots between the groups. Among the new silks of the heavier kinds there are moire antique, glossy ta fe and shiny brocades prettily s in varying tints. Venetian silk with dots and bengalines with soft, small cord almost like a gros grain, break the monotq of old-time silks. The plece de re: ance among- the silk novelties is a pattern with a narrow che- nille stripe woven into it. Pearl gra with a violet chenille stripe, is very beau- tiful and promises to be a favorite com- Since the craze for chenille s apace there is no doubt that these gro Chenille silks will meet with approba- tion. And the extreme high prices charg- ed for them will prevent them from be- coming common. " : There is also a new drap d'ete, with silk loops all over it: then there are silk- dotted mohairs, serviceable camels and novelty goods from Vienna which are very desirable. 2 Delaines and challies are much prettier than heretofore, and exactly the thing for the clinging skirts and the soft effects which are_especial feature of fashion. A local modiste showed me a beautiful gown of French challle which she is mak- ing for oge of our belles. It is of a beau- f mauve. White lace is ap- oon designs around the bot irt and the bodice is lik wise trimmed in the : applique. Above he festoons on the skirt will be scattered of lace. The modiste says these n colored challies trimmed in black or te lace applique are going to be the tom of the T w rage. Handkerchiefs to accompan: mer gowns will be fanciful yet dainty. For those who are willing to forswear the pure white ones there are handkerchiefs with colored hems to match the shade of the. gown. Of course, the borders must be hemstitched. Some of the corners are ely embroidered in silk, with s of flowers or true lovers’ knots. Hand-Painted Gowns. ver since hand-painted materials for have become popular, every one an wield a brush has considered the bility of decorating the material her- self, thereby reducing the expense. But as a rule timidity conquers and even those who do attempt it find thelr efforts any- thing but satisfactory. Undoubtedly painting is the most. a ceptable and if artistically executed the most beautiful form of adding embellish- ment to plain colored fabrics. The same pattern if carried out in art embroidery would require much more time, labor and patienc nd would be far less effective and _dair I know ‘a_very clever girl who desi sum! ns cheer fabrics that are offered for sale here at enormous prices. ed her why amateurs could not buy the materials and successfully ornament them. She said they undoubtedly could with a few suggestions and hints to aid them, which she kindly gave me. Water colors should be used in prefer- ence to oil on textile fabri In painting upon white cream or any very delicate tint less body color is required than upon a darker groundwork. While many water colors are in themseclves transparent in this kind of work, they must be rendered opaque by the addition of Chinese white for light colored grounds. For dark goods there must first be a coat of Chinese white painted in smoothly oyer the entire surface of the design. Upon this, when dry, the painting proper is put in, The design is first sketched in with a lead pencil, or. if we can do so, with the brush. In many cases, however, the pat- tern is first transferred in outline. This is accomplished by placing carbon or im- pression paper against the fabric, with the .design above. and tracing over the lines with a pointed instrument or a tracing point. A design of violets on cream satin is a favorite one. Use carmine and blue mixed for the violet, adding white for the lght and medium tones. Sufficient white is necessary to give some body to the paint. Greens may be painted with plenty of white and vellow combined with blue for bright, sunny leaves. adding a touch of red or black to subdue too vivid color. For the stems use a mixture of vellow ocher, cobalt and a little sepia and rose madder. For gray green shadowing leaves and grasses, mix Antwerp blue or cobalt, cadmium, a good deal of white, a little rose madder and black. By varying the propertions of yellow. blue and red, dif- ferent grayish tints are obtainable, fend- ing more or less toward the principal color used. By following _the general directions, however, any design may be executed. The work is really a pleasure to one able to do it, and 1t does not require an artist | of more than ordinary amateur ability | to successfully paint the material for a gown, The design chosen must not be | an intricate, elaborate one, graceful, care- | less effects being casier and far more artistic. War Epigram Lunches Certainly this is a new idea in lunch- eons. It originated in the mind of a Lynchburg (Va.) woman. Perhaps the best designation is a war epigram lunch- eon, the intellectual feature of the affair being the repetition by each guest of some historic mot of the recent conflict with Spain. Among the apt quotations from the utterances of . naval and military heroes were these: “Excuse me, sir; I have to report that A the ship has been blown up and is sink- ing.”—Bill Anthony. “Suspend judgment “We wili make S guage of had ans. “Remember the Maine.”—Schley. “Don’t hamper me with instructions; I'm not afraid of the entire Spanish fleet | with my ship.”’—Clark. # —Sigsbee. nish the court lan- “To hell with breakfast; let's finish | ‘em now.”—A gunnef on board one of the vessels, 5 | bv"Ehuflor is fighting, not writing. —Cor-i in. *Do: 't cheer now; those poor devils are | 1899. > 05‘23// 6’5‘ OF the Yew Shirt Waists. Hore HAttention Is to Be Siven to the Cut of the Shirt Waist This Jummor.‘ oy Will Lose ihe Jegligee Sffect. ment that I believe In God the Father Al- mighty.”—Philip. 3 “The Maine is avenged.”—Wainwright. “Don’t get between my guns and the enemy.”—Dewey. 1 have got them now; they will never get home.”’—Schley. “There must be no more recalls; iron will break at last.”—H “Don’t mind me, boy Allen Capron. “Don’t swear; 'shoo Colonel Wood. “Take that for the Maine.”—Sigsbee. “Expect to take the place as soon as I Reinforcements will not reach me. '—Shafter. “War is not a picnic.”—Hamilton Fish. “Who would not gamble for a new star in the flag?’'—O’'Neill. “Afraid I'll strain _my guns at long range; I'll close in.”—Wainwright. There were twenty questions and ten women_ present. One bright woman guessed .eight, and a white marble bust of Dewey was awarded her, wrapped carefully in red, blue and white paper. SRS BiuTs ror ‘SerinG HarTs. OME of the hats that milliners are now turning out for their fashion- able patrons are very suggestive of springtime, _though the flowers used in trimming them are not like the light ones used in summer, but are heavy, rich affairs of velvet or silk, combined with chenille. Brims are often made of an open-work lattice of chenille. Masses of velvety green leaves with nasturtiums look extremely well on a brown hat with russet velvet ribbon. The draped velvet toques that have been fashionable all winter are robbed of their stiff wings and quills, and sup- plied with big bunches of velvet violets that have long stems that hang in tassel effect. The big all-black picture hat has the feathers removed and treated to a freshening process, and a bunch of big red or vellow roses fastened under the brim and a single rose and bud nodding among the feathers. These touches add smartness to the millinery that is not new; and banish that look of dowdiness that every woman so hates. Of course a few dollars must be spent in accomplish- ing this, but it will be a long time until the light spring millinery is in season. Since toques are so exceedingly stylish, one can have very fetching little bits of headgear at extremely low figures, and the handy woman has not found it be- vond her to fashion her own toques this winter. A favorite style is the one that is draped from the back, the velvet fall- ing easily over the frame, and bunched up right in front with a shot loop or two, and a close cluster of small flowers. Long pins, with big jet heads, are jabbed through the folds of velvet, and are stuck through bows and among feathers. A New York fashion letter says that “All manner of owls, from the screech and barndoor varieties to the smaller and more rare ones, decorate the new turbans and toques, the bird of wisdom topping in solemn dignity many frivolous toilets of ruffled taffet under a fur-trimmed velvet pelisse. its plumage looks especially well with black velvet and sable. ‘“‘Another eccentricity of the winter is a hat of white felt heaped with chrysan- themum blossoms’in a thick wreath, in he brown and white of | shaded tones of violet or of old rose, and dark red, loops of black velvet ribbon serving as further decoration.” A new spring walking hat Is'in a chalky white felt. against the small crown and at onc side velvet goes about the crown. 7 Spangled gauze quills are certainly a preparations eat away the skin almost as soon as they do the hair; therefore there has been called “morai vinegar,” and no The sides are bent up flat ar,” doubt has much to do with facial erup- may have a bandeau of black or violet | tions. But, remember, I have your prom- velvet and at the other a black velvet | ise to do no more worrying. If 1 am the rosette with cut steel buckle. means of helping one little girl to break that uncomfortable habit I shall feel that A Dand of | [I have accomplished one good work at novelty. These are, of course, wired at |least. the edges, and the wires covered with | TOURIARETTE—When the hair falls chenille. it is a sign of a disordered physical con- IThese quills are used with good | effect on both day and evening millinery. | dition, and careful eating, regular exer e cise a;1d flai‘_}y spm{)ge )finhs are \'olg Td s sential. loderate brushing is a splendi A Mechine to Wash Bab3~ invigorator. Use the following tonic Four ounces cologne, one-half ounce tinc “BABY-WASHER” is the very lat-| tyre cantharides and one-fourth off to the surface of the skin. All causticclear as cry is considerable risk in using them. Worry | | As your letter was written before dram | est appliance for reducing the car's| each of ofl of lavender and oil of rose- | 1. Pour off carefully, leave ing the residue for Kkitchen purposes. Perfume with a few drops oil of verbena. The roughness of your arms is probably caused by defective circulation. Warm baths and plenty of exercise in the open air should remedy this trouble. Serub the arms vigorously with a flesh brush and at night apply olive oil, rubbing in thorough- with a piece of soft white flannel, Glycerin diluted with lemon juice well whiten the hands nicely, or, if you object to using glycerin, then put pure lemon juice on the hands and after it has dried in_rub them well with cold cream. MISS A. AMAZON—In The Call of Jan- uary 15.there appeared special Beauty Talk on the subject of superfluous hair. that questions answered. you must have found your about the electric needle full claimed for it the mother country will o long be allowed to enjoy alone the bene- fits accruing from the use of the device. When a child gets so soiled that his appearance suggests a worker in a coal | mine, the man behind the wheels in a | railway engine or a New York cable car | conductor on a Saturday night, then is the time to put this delightful scheme into instant operation. First take the boy and place him near the machine. Probably he will shy at it, for the device is not of an appearance calculated to make the infant lose itself in an ocean of delight by merely cursorily inspecting it. But never mind the marked disap- proval of the youngster. There is an ori- fice through ~which the body of the washee is to be Inserted by the person who superintends the washing. This orifice can be regulated as to size by simply turning a cogwheel. The hole can be made larger or smaller, and can thus accommodate the baby that took the prize at the size show as well as the child that looks of normal proportions only by the aid of a microscope. Through_this orifice, then, Master Baby is inserted. A highly polished plane is the first thing that claims the attention f the boy. ?)an it he slides to what must seem to his infantile mind an ex- ceptional length. At the bottom he is confronted by an inviting rubber tube, placed in such a position as to imme- ‘diately meet the lips of the young visi- tor. The slight pressure in the art of which every baby that ever breathed is a past master is sufficient to draw ‘out a care- fully prepared quantity of the most healthful milk. After wearying of this form of sustenance the baby takes a glance around the compartment and finds that he has entered a plate glass mir- rored house, the like of which has never before appeared to him. An_ automaton monkey sits near by and thrusts into baby’s hands a_combination nail cutter, tooth cutter and rattle. An electric ap- pliance furnishes music popularly sup- posed to reduce youngsters to a condition of sweet sleep. : ‘When the purpose of the music has been achieved the baby sleeps and is then turned into the third compartment, where the actual washing is undertaken. The nails are nicely trimmed, the hair brushed and when baby awakens from his nap he is a sight for gods and men and a fit or- nament to any society. The name of the inventor of this de- lightful system has not been revealed to the public, and theré are certain of the skeptical who ridicule the idea of the plan being practicable. This view, the friends of the invention claim, is merely the expression of the jealous and not to be seriously considered by any one in real need of a patent “baby washer.” L O O e R R e R AR S e g dying.”"—Philip. “I want to make a public acknowleds- | > + o5 % + + * + - + + THE BEST' WAY TO REMOVE “KISSES . -OF . APOLLD.” By Mme. Hygeia. . e a4 D o o S R SR T I b s o 8 T e e e e e e o This’ department is for the benefit of all those who are interested in the science of cosmetics and the hy- giene of proper living. If any one desires igformation on either of these subjects the questions will be cheer- fully answered in these columns. Write as often as you like, ask as many questions as you please and sign any name that you choose. Address all communications to Mme. Hygeia, The Sunday Call, San Francisco. OW then, girls, in order to get caught up with the thousand and one letters that are await- | ing replies. I am going to give | you a new recipe to-day in place | of the usual Beauty Talk. It | is a good one; cut it out and paste it in your hats, or better still, on the backs of your hand-mirrors, where you will be sure | not to lose it. It is called Cherry Liaurel Freckle Lotion. Rosewater, six ounces. Glycerin, one-half ounce. Cherry laurel water, two and a half drams. Simple tincture benzoin, one and one-half drams. Apply twice a_day, letting the lotion | dry into the skin. Also use a good | cold cream each night upon retiring. Right here let m hat of all facial be termed incurable, s freckle They are caused by an of iron in the blood, minute particles of which find their way through the drainage tract | of the skin and deposit themselves first | under the scarfskin. These. acted upon | by the sunlight, darken into the little dis- | colorations called freckles. They may be removed again and again, but as long as there is iron in the blood and the sun | continues to shine, they are sure to re- turn. The freckles that come with summer | and fade away at the approach of winter, may, by the use of simple lotions, vanish but the constitutional or *cold freckles' depart only when the scarfskin is remov ed. Even then, when the scarfskin grows again, the freckles also return. fowever, by protecting the new scarf- skin, the little “'kisses of Apollo’” may be kept at bay, or so obstructed that one's vanity will not suffer to any great extent. After having got rid of the freckles a fond way of keeping them from return- ng is, before exposure to the wind or sun, rub a very thin coating of cold cream over the face and cover with a | sprinkling of a good pure face powder. hen, if you will further protect the skin by wearing a vell or carrying a good- sized parasol, I think that you will en- joy immunity from the little golden spots. Now for the correspondence. e Answers to Gorrespondents, RUBY WHITE—Cocoanut oil in its pure | state Is a very excellent hair producer, so0 1 would not advise your using it upon | the skin. One ounce of it in combination | with one ounce of lanolin, one ounce of oil of sweet almonds, one-half ounce spermaceti, one-half ounce white wax, ten drops tincture of benzoin and one ounce orange flower water, makes a very excellent skin food, and will make your | skin smooth and lovely. Steaming .ne face every night, unless there are black- heads, is altogether too oftén’ Once in two weeks is better. After steaming the face any cold cream or skin food can be | rubbed into the skin. The sage tea and alcohol in the proper proportions is as 0od a tonic as you could use upon your fiflll’. although if your hair is light it is apt to darken it a trifle. SUSIE LOCKWOOD—If you will use the cold cream, formula for which is given in reply to Miss A. Amazon. am sure that it will greatly benefit your skin, and you need not be at all afraid of its promoting the growth of the hair on the face. Really, I prefer not to rec- ommend anything for darkening the eye- lashes, as dyes are always risky. he only way that I can sugwest to make your | fingers. taper is to pinch them into shape whenever you happen to think of it. A Frenchman some years ago invented a set of thimbles for thus shaping the ends of the fln{ler-. Whether or not these can pe found here, I do not know. As leng as other people consider your hands pratty, do not worry because they do not happen to please you in this one particular. Do vou know there is no change more 4iffi- cult to brln‘zabbul than that of reducing the hips? Electric massage {s perhaps the best way to overcome the trouble. It you cannot get the electrie massage, then try the mechanical. which should be fol- lowed by a {enlle rubbing with alcohol or salt and water. Standing with the heels close together, bending forward ang try- | for any sort of disea. ing to touch the finger tips to the floor without bending the knees is a good exer- cise for this purpose. Repeat ten or fif- teen times each morning. ROSEBUD L., 2l5—Good for the skin food! Am pleased that you have had such gratifying results. To reduce the large stomach try this exercise: Lie flat on the back upon the floor. Fold the | arms and raise the body to a sitting pos- ture. Repeat five times. Then lie upon | the floor and raise one leg as high as pos- sible, then the other. Repeat this several times. At first this will tire you quite considerably, but as the muscles become strengthened you will find that you can repeat the exercises fifteen or more times without becoming wearied. There has been a special Beauty Talk about moles since your letter was written. Am sure you must have seen it. Hope the sprained hand is all right by fhis time. T. H. S. N.—Before applying any lotion for the coarse pores, get rid of the black- heads by scrubbing the face every night with a camel's hair complexion ~brush. Follow the scrubbing with the application of a good cold cream. Strict attention must be paid to the diet also. Avoid all rich, greasy foods and eat plenty of fruit. Take regular exercise, a daily tepid sponge bath and two hot, soapy baths week. When the blackheads have d appeared apply the following lotion: Pre- cipitated sulphur, 1 dram; ether, 4 drams; alcohol, 315 ounces. Shake well before using, and rub into the skin at night, just before going to bed. It will clear the skin and at the same time draw t closer together. NG X D.—Real 1_don’t prescribe - My mission is to enlighten womankind upon the subject of hygiene and in the art of mixing up nice, fluffy stuffs for the complexion. You had best consult’'a physiclan for the trouble you mention. VIOLETE—Borate of sodium, 1 dram; extract of cannabis. 1 scruple, and col- lodion, vne ounce, mixed together and ap- plied daily until the corn can be easily scraped away will afford you complete relief. Warts may be removed, by touch- ing the center of the wart lightly with a lunar caustic pencil once a day. Tt will turn black and gradually disappear. Be very careful not to get the caustic on any of the surrounding skin. ' The name of an acid for removing moles was given in the Beauty Talk of January 22. For the shiny skin add- one scant teaspoonful of the following lotion to two quarts of warm water when the face is bathed: Alcohol, four ounces; ammonia, one ounce. and oil of lavender, one ' dram. Mix by shaking in a six-ounce bottle. DEWEY—You say that your skin is oily and in the next breath you say that it is dry. so I scarcely know what to prescribe for it. If you have any doubts about us- ing the skin food. then use the cold cream formula for which is given in reply to Miss A. Amazon. 1T have never known of the skin food having the ef- fect that vou fear. but if your skin has a tendency that way, it would be better perhaps to use something less oily. One- quarter ounce white rose leaves steeped in_one-quarter pint each of fresh lemon Juice and brandy make a splendid skin whitener. Let it simmer slowly for three h?uris“ Press, strain and decant. Apply at night. GRANDMAMMA—T am so sorry that you have had to wait so long for a reply to your letter. but I am terribly behind with the_ correspondence. Do not rub oil or cold cream into haby’s ekin. This will make it more tender. If the child is thor- oughly dried and properly powdered thera will be no chafing or soreness of the skin. A bag of soft linen filled with the finest unperfumed talcum powder is the best thing to- use. This can be dusted into the little creases of baby's fat legs and arms and there will be no loss of powder, as there always is in using a puff for the purpose. "Never use corn- starch. TIn absorbing the moisture. which it does very readily. it ecollects into tiny pieces or chunks. which is irri- tating to_baby's soft, sensitive skin. A little alcohol in the water in which he is rin: will harden and give tone to the skin. These directions if-faithfuliy fol- lowed. will. T am sure. alleviate the little darling’s suffering. Keep the body per- fectly_dryv. CONFIDENCE—I am more pleased than T can say that mv advice has been so helpful.to vou, Wear the short-sleeved gown by all means. Every one has more or less down on the arms, and' I very he pores | much doubt if youfs is as noticeable as you fancy it is. If the tiny hairs are hydrogen. The easiest way to steam ‘the face is to fill a deep china bowl with boil- | Ing water, envelop the head in a sheet folded four’ times and then hold the face over the rising steam, tucking the sheet ely around so that none of the vapor will escape. Wash the face thoroughly and smear with cold cream before begin- | ning the steaming operation. I fear that the pimples will persist in returning so | long ‘as the internal economy is not in | perfect order. Suppose you have this pre- | scription filled by your druggist: Extract of dandelion, one dram: powdered rhu- | barb, q. s. Divide into three and one-half | grain pills and take one every night for a while. I think you will find the cu- | cumber” milk- delightful, although I can- not promise you that it will remove the | brown spot. “A_“depilators” is a_powder | usually containing corrosive sublimate, | auicklime or caustic, which burns the hair SCIENCE & GENEROSITY Bring COLOR and Firmness to Your CHEEKS. My system of treatment prevents wear and tear of vour face. I will give the result of Jou of scientific research to any lady inter- ested. THIS TREATMENT FREE TO YOU. There will not be a trace of Wrinkles | | | | Freckles ‘Pimples Coarse ; Pores | MRs. NETTIE HARRISON'S | Sufficient treatment will be given FREE so that you may see and understand for yourself. This offer stands. FOR ONE WEEK. 4-DAY HAIR RESTORER Imparts the natural color to gray or faded hair. Not a dye. No disagreeable after effects, nor stickiness. $1 00. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR Permanently removed by the Electric Needle as operated by me. LOLA MONTEZ CREME Is a skin purifler and tissue buflder without an equal on earth. It is a natural skin foud. Tic jar lasts 3 months. l TRIAL POT L. o, ot e sending this ad. with 10¢ in stamps will receive a book of instructions and a box of Lola Montez Creme and Face Powder FREE. Visit me and see what may be done for vou. MRS. NETTIE HARRISON ., DERMATOLOGIST, 40-42 Geary Street, San Franeiseco. dark, bleach them out with peroxide of | oap. which is then put in a porcela borax, five drams o tle with two quarts of warm water and dissolving by boiling. When cold it should be of the consistency of rather thin cream; if thicker, add more water. Stir in one-fourth pint of alcohol and let stand several days in a warm room. All the al- | Kall and impurities will settle fo the bot- tom of the kettle, leaving the liquid as approve of the corn method of whitening should be NEW 1899 SHIRT WAISTS. drams of orange flower left order to perform their proper The preparation that you men- good, its principal ingredients being rusewater and oil of almonds, [} 2 (&3 t of mothers and making the lusty | mary. Apply to the roots once or twice | A cold cream made from the following lunged youngsters take a mor day, using a small sponge for the pur- | formula will make the skin smooth and heortul “vlom ot life. England i; |Pose: While using this tonic shampoo | white: Pure white wa cheerful view of life. Engl with liquid verbena s once a week. | maceti, 1% ounces; oil said to be responsible for the invention i i cutting in small | 1% ounces: rosewater but if the machine does one-half what is _of pure Jotion on the ater. I do not starch and cream the skin, as the perfectly frée at GROUND || AND RED FIGURES |