The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 18, 1898, Page 23

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL Y, DECEMBER 18, 1898 This department is for the benefit ot a! nforma sires ke, ask as many Francisco. daintiest Oil of 1 With all will no » LMOND MEAL nehed and powdered, like the milk ywder, sor meal mizer le boxes other litt! n. these th own Christma: complexion stuffs sper one 1 ting labor over let me wi already It you all sor cets, else a good I will nowed under, morning. with a _perfect letters containing reque Mme, Hygeia, for the hg to drive a ne- Oli of sweet almond three Melx tha Sieat Answers to Correspondents. clammy hands are very animent of a highly Jus temperament. Defective ¢ o is often the cause of t Take plenty of exercise and be ng room is well ven- is in hot water R. i ently the 3 ) on if you will s a powder made of equal parts of root and lycopodium perhaps life will once more become jolly and roseate to you. O. L. B.—Am very glad that you decided to write me, for I am sure that I can help 5u. The treatment of pimples requires ore than mere outward applications. Help must come from within. Do you take a dWily tepid sponge bath and a warm, soapy tub bath once a week? Do u walk a couple of miles a day, in or shine? Is the room that you sleep in well ventilated, and do you deny your stomach all sweets and pastries, pickles and highly spiced dishes and other indigestible foods? All this must be done if one would have a smooth fair skin, with the roses of health in the c plenty of fruit, such as apples anges, peaches and peays, and if these do ot make the digestive organs sufficientiy active, go to your druggist, who, I pre- sume, Is reliable, and have this harmless prescription filled: Extract of dandelion, 1 dram; powdered rhubarb, q. s. Divide into 3% grain pills and take one every night, or oftener if necessary. Do not take either of the medicines mentioned in vour letter. Use only pure castile soap on your face, and use it every night with tepid water, rinsing well in clear water and drying on & soft towel. Then smear 2 good cold cream over the face, such as is given in to-day’s Beauty Talk. If the eruptions are severe touch the spots with tincture of myrrh or listerine, diluted In three times as much boiled water. In the morning remove any of the erease that PRXN 26 > e YO $> u to ing for you > L, > > 5% S cian, and at once. will forgive me for not p you? for I really e one \\ / think you need the advice of a medical r. There is surely some or- L —Cucumber easily obtainable by grating a cumber and then straining the juice. The rose- water can be bought at any drug store, and if you cannot buy spirits of soap, Put two and soap cut in add nine make some. It's ver: a half ounces of whi into a pl icohol k use. Be;\u'.'{ o very care- hair I do not it causes it to grow t is difficult to say S thin in_one place h has been fluid which 1o tim be only too plea: enefit to you w Keep on in > line s of ona the other, tablespoonfuls of r juice, Half fill r flower water and spoonfuls. of eau de nd add very slowly imple tincture of ben- ixture now and then. der flower water. Be are no settlings in the will be apt to curdle the be used in the morning face. red spots’ under the in time. Yeu might mbe Shake ce well of that vour 1 would Do not The Long GChristmas Gloak. hasten their departure by frequent appli- jons of diluted witch hazel and a : ith any of the cold S8 LESTER—Get hydrogen, add a_few and dabble on the sup ps of fluous hair. R CRCRCRCRORCRORC Crie Christmas Sirt f. and or Christmas Cloak MORRR R R RORCRORREROR R RS2 2 2 2 2 224 will make it almost colorless and will after a time deaden it. Don't cut your hair off yet awhile. Try this tonic first; it is particularly good for hair that is dry and stiff: Four ounces eau de cologne; one-half ounce tincture cantharides and one-fourth dram each of oil of lavender and ofl of rosemary. Apply to the roats once or twice a day with a small spongc. Whatever you do, do not wear a switch. That keeps the head hotrand in an un- healthy state that will not give the locks half a chance to see what they can ao in the growing line. Try the tonic for six weel mE if it does not heip you write to me again. DOROTHY s.—’l‘he milk will not make the hair w on the faee, but I cannot see the clency of adding the salt to 1it. Ba(lfi-n the face in warm milk will fat- ten ,%m I would omit the salt. Use a small pinch of borax instead. The salts of tartar and lemon juice should not be allowed to d on the hair. It should be applied and then rinsed out until the hair is soft and fluffy. It is to be used only on Nght hair. The recipe that you sent me for lettuce cream is all right. only I should use the tender, inside leaves of the lettuce instead of the outside ones. And do not use more than two ounces of e liquid, else your cream will be too ft. Also make it in a porcelain kettle— tin is" injurious to the ofls. A little per- fume added to it will improve it. DORA A.—The recipe that you sent me can be used with perfect safety, although if your skin is inclined to be dry, the alcohol in the lotion will tend to make it more so. In that case you might omit the alcohol and use only one-half the quantity of the boracic acid. For treat- ment of pimples please read advice given to O. L. B. Am so pleased that the sage tea has been a benefit to you, and that vou have found the cucumber milk such a fine skin whitener. It will keep me time if stored in a cool place. You can preserve the cucumber juice so that it will last a long time by dissolving a tinv pinch of salicylic acid in alcohol and adding to a haif-pint bottle of the juice. Your cucumber milk is all right as lon~ as it does not ferment. Get red vaseline for the eyebrc The best way to ac- quire ch and lips is to get some of the roses of health. If you must use rouge, the following is as harmless as Y, dram: ofl of almonds. halk 2 ounces, Color ally cold cream with in it than is usually used, to 1ded sufficient carmine to make nough in color. HYGEIA. MME. 28O L ® ® @ ® ® ® ® ® @ ® @ ® ® @® @ ® ® A Creation in Velvet and Tulle. Special to The Sunday Call. EW YORK, Dec. 15.—T* is win- ter now, and the winter girl, in all the beauty of her furs, is here. She is the Christmas girl, glorious in her ho{iday fur and her beautiful enveioping cloak. The Christmas girl of 158 has an ex- tra beauty, for she wears such expensive things, though sue wea them with a grace. The Christmas girl is now dressed in her Christmas cloak, which is made of very heavy stuff which reacl ground all the ound. a brocaded cloth with the brocades stand- ing out in silk upon it. It has a lined skirt, but the waist is tigh® fitting and sets closely to the figure—too closely to suggest a mere lining. It is boned and fitted to the waist, then fitte. to the hips. If you ask a woman her ideal Christmas present, provided she has no winter cloak, she will undoubtedly ‘‘something to wear.” Her mind is aiready »d upon the handsome garments which you see in the shops. They are so wonderfully beau- tiful this season. Truly, never were bro- cades and silks and furs so tastefully combined into fashionable garments One of wuese, a few days 2go, was being sam- pled by a young woman, \/ho will receive it undoubtedly later for a Christmas gift. It was made of very heavy cloth bro- cade, with figures of a curious sort in it that suggested chenille. The cloak was of a deep green, with the figures of a lighter ghade. The waist was trimmed with beautiful epaulets of ermine fur. They were ruffied epaulets. Otherwise it was perfectly plain. Indeed, its simplicity Would have been painful on any but an ideal figure. The girl who was looking at it, however, was as slender as a sylph, and one can imagine how stylish she would be with the cloak tightly buttoned to_her figure. ‘With this cloak was woérn a very cun- ning little ‘‘set” consisting of three pieces. There was a boa of silver fox with long, trailing ends; then there was a green velvet muff with fox heads and tails upon the front. The sides of the muff were lined with pink. Her hat was a lovely little toque, with & fox tails twisted around it, and a fox head with tails curled around at the side. The hat was finished with numerous Paradise tail feathers, which were its only trim- ming. It was a soft-crowned little hat worn well back from the hair, which was a pompadour. it is casy to imagine that the young woman who wears a long tight fitting cloak will not wear much underneath. whispered that the young women who look so sylphlike in these long gar- s are dressed in a_style which the reformers would ighly favor. it not for the corsets their under- would be ideal. Tt is whispered worn, but we shall dis- wear that tights are countenance thi: Next to the skin they wear the tight- est of all wool combination suits, reach- ing from chin to ankle; over these comes the corset; next there is a knitted long sleeved corset cover of a delicate color, which might.be mistaken for a jersey t is puiled down snugly over the A very e!flhal‘:}te Sil"lk tticoat is ength that nearl, touches the sidewalk. Over this lh’e’ long coat is buttoned. It fastens se- curely down the front from the neck to the nem, being secured first with large buttons and buttonholes set upon flaps, then with large invisible hooks and eyes. It takes a long time to get into one of these lovely long brocaded cloaks, but it is well worth the trouble, for they are certainly marvels of prettiness. The fur muff has not gone out by any means, but the velvet one has come in; though if you were to actually canvass you, would probably find three fur muffs to one of veivet. The trouble with the velvet muffs is that they are first expen- sive and then difficult to make. It takes a muff-maker ®f ‘experfence to make a muff. The ends must be so carefully stif- fened as to set out over the sleeves and the muff must be nicely shaped. Then there comes the question of the fur heads and tails with which it is trimmed, so that woen the muff is com- pleted it is more expensive than the fur one bought outright. The cost of the long _Christmas cloak is really very great. You cannot get a Christmas cloak for less than $50 and you may consider yourself lucky at taat. There are really so many ya of mate- rial in the cloak, and the finish requires such care, that it would not nay to get up a big, handsome garment of this kind for less money. The Christmas woman spends all her time in the streets, for the stores are so n.llurlni that she cannot !(l{ in the house. Theoretically she receives her Christmas gifts on Christmas morning; X hips. now put on of a but actually they are handed out to he?, one by one, by a kind-hearted Santa Claus and you see her appear to-day in a new cloak and to-morrow in a new cape, for she knows that Santa Claus has more in store for her. Many of the new cloaks fles, but where a fur trimming i the silk ruffle is left on. Sometimes the two are combined, ruffles and fur, but the two are seldom pretty. The favorite way of trimming the lon cloak is with the ever popular band o fur down the front. This gives elegance and grace. There is something about the up and down trimming which can never be too highly appreciated, especially for short people. The round and round ruf- fles, though univ lly worn, are not as becoming to short figures as the straight up and down styles. To suit these figures many of the new the belt to the of fur and cloaks are trimmed from feet with bands sometime again of braid. The bands are of different lengths. Some reach to the walst and some to the knees. This gives a vertical trimming which is very pretty. In furs the Christmus favorites have shown themselves to be the light furs. Li a goddess a women looks in the iful snow white furs that are on the Some of them have a bluish nd some of them verge on yellow v. There are silver fox, ermine and chinchilla for the most popular, and among the most expensive come the polar fox and polar bes and the snow white ermine with its s’ of queer, stiff black. The Christmas hair dressing will be very elaborate, for Christmas parties are on the tapis, and a woman must fix herself up becomingly. Young women who want to look very picturesque are crowding the bhair into a net and curling it on each side. Others are puffing it elaborately around the face and across the back so as to make the head look large. The Gainsborough beauties all had large heads. The faces were small, and round the face was colled a coiffure in beautiful studied confusion. It was very pompa- dour, and there was another pompadour back of the first; then came the puffs and the curls. The same style prevails now to a great extent and the hair is as elabe orately dressed as you can imagine. Many of the beautiful long cloaks have brilliant linings, and when this cloak of cloaks flies open it displays the lining. Underneath is a little plain silk gown, Silk is admirably chosen to wear under the cloak because it does not pull or drag. To inquiring papas it may be said that should they desire a handsome Christmas gift for the daughter of the family they could not do better than select one of these long, handsome designs, for on Christmas day it will be more than thank- fully receiv HELEN WARD. —_—— J. G. BLAINE'S BURIAL PLACE. A great man itors have been at Oak Hill lately who did not come because they had relatives or friends buried there, but because the cemetery has the monument to John Howard Payne, the author of ‘‘Home, Sweet Home.” The Blaine fam- ily lot is also a spot to which most of the pilgrims wend their way. Additional in- terest is just now attracted to the grave of James G. Blaine, because part of tha ground is not sodded and awaits the erec- tion of the headstone which his widow has ordered. A fine old oak tree was in the middle of this lot when Mr. Blaine selected it for his last resting place, and he said 'at the time it would form his monument. Much of the ground near the lot had new earth put over it a few years ago to keep up the grade, and it is thought that this killed the tree, since annt};er f‘llo."fil by haxs %Iso died, and ncw stands a lonely sen cov v AL tinel, covered with ivy —_—————— The California Hotel. Among the leading caravansarles of san Francisco is the California Hotel, on Bush street. Its merits have drawn to it as a permanent abiding place many of the leading families of the city. Among its features which com- mend it to the public is that of safety against fire, it being the only absolute- 1y fire-proof hotel in the eity. The California is espectally popular with the traveling public and among its guests are numbered the most dis- tinguished people who visit the city. The Hon. W. Clayton Pickersgill, the British Consul, makes the hotel his home. Many other notables of the State and Federal service reside within its walls. The hotel is the scene of the annual reunions of many of San Francisco's leading social societies and institutions of learning. Its banquet rooms are superbly appointed. It is surrounded by newly and smoothly paved streets and its guests are not aroused or distarbed by passing vehicles or clanging street- car bells. The billiard room and bar are magnificently equipped and are second to none in the country—Ameri- can and Europeagn plan. R. H. Wars field & Co., lessees. —_—— The Russian Ministc: of War is ex+ perimenting with aluminum for horsa shoes. The cavalry horses in the army are being shod with aluminum—one shoe to each animal, the remaining three being shod with ordinary iron shoes. So far as the experiment has gone it is found that aluminum shoes wear longer and are less affected by mud and moisture. They weigh two and a half ounces less than iren shoes. e