The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 11, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO OALL, SUNDAY, DECEMBER 11, 1898.. Special to ¢ EW YORK, Dec. 9.—The Rough | Rider girl sh pper t 4 est 1 the h exquisitely nes She wears, lik , even though it is w shirt waist of some wash goc she dis- ns the heavy woolen styl Her col- extremely tall—so that she does not choke her to why it ¢ is one of two. If she is a d tie; but plumes which are caught under a big gold buckle. Tulle of all kinds is used for the neck, and one of the smartest stocks was made entirely of plain tulle, sewed to a plain band of velvet. The band was stiff and tall. r a Christmas present you cannot do if you want to step outside the limits 'of a dollar or so, than to buy one of these tall, stiff velvet stocks with a ki tulle bow in front. At a bargain 1 fortunate day, you can get or 60 cen: but be careful materials are good, for you vou decrease in price you are in material. ver see Christm s they are this ve ascinating, and fairly tempt out of one’s pockets. well to shop early, for a litfle later every- thing may be a little worn, from the con- stant handling of the shoppers; and the early buyer gets more for her money than the one who’leaves her purchases to the last. Lady Curzon Hat and Collar. h Rider sound of the bugle for t she chooses a broad tie of 1 silk, which she knots with twn loops and ends over her collar but- ton. She leaves it so high that it not show butto. it has a ver tk > makes herself. lation Rough Rider felt, too plain to not even trim- 1 has only the two large re made with these high d the Lady s tall and r seams on each h one of th k to which is m: the collar is is twisted around choker, and is then arieties of bril e outside, Inside utiful hats is_the t. It is of felt, turned up - ‘high and lined with vel- velvet is the favorite is a bunch com- ican Beauties size, and this bunch is dupli- the hat brim. It is a very specially when worn with becoming 1 & plain colffure s becoming style of neckwe bow which this front of ry voluminou ten loops or end An alw is the > bow equal length. They fly free- chin without apparent order. ie of white, with black nd white, or any kind of 3 S ewed to h is hooked ;orn with this is a big, round pon the side of the head, with velvet and two long waving one placed u & crown of STRIKING BLACK AND WHITE COSTUME. It is said that the war has greatly brought down the prices of articles, for the manufacturerers realizing the wave of prosperity that would follow have flooded the market, and that you can buy for d dollar a great many more things this year than you could geét last year for that price. " Whatever may be the political ex- planation—and we women will not go into that—we can only remark that the Christ- mas shops are absolutely tempting. The best day to shop i8 the bargain day in this city, for conscientious dealers never advertise bargains unless they have them; and by reading carefully the adver- tising columns in this paper you know just where to get the best articles at _the most advantageous prices. Many of these advertisements pive the actual figures, and where there is not space enough to do so, the articles rth in such a fashion that you an idea of exactly what you One of the cleverest women in New York has a_habit of cutting the advertisements out of the dally papers and pasting them in a little book, which she calls her *‘shop- ping book.” The slips are removable, so that every week she a new book. Act- ing upon this suggestion you can to-day read ¢ ully all the advertisements in this aper and cut out those that please you. Paste them upon sheets of writing paper and slip the sheets into a little leather ca As you are shopping con- and you will find yourself fur- with a hand guide or index to the It is really worth while, for it time and temper to know just ex- where you can get just what you 1t for your own price. he folded ribbon stock is still fashion- le. Get a ribbon three times too wide for the neck and fold it over a stiff piece of crinoline. Hook the crinoline at the back and make your ribbon into a bow. This is the newest way to make your col- lar stand up, and it is really more becom- ing. For a belt get very wide ribbon and crumple it down to an inch. This is the ctreme of fashion. They are still trimming fashionable hats with ostrich plumes. Discouraging, isn't it, when you know that a single plume costs $3? But an ostrich plume is always a good investment, and you can dye and recurl it and use it again next year. Economy is a good thing, and no one will regret it; but why talk about it at this time of year, wiLen everything is so beautiful and the gift season at hand too? If you are limited, purchase those things which you know you must have during the year. Buy for the family all sorts of linen goods and underwear, night shirts, i All will be glad re glad than to receive something senseless. And for your other friends get useful articles com- bined with beautiful ones. I know & New York woman who invari- ably gives her sister a very pretty hat. it has come to be a family affair, and from a thing of ridicule at first it has be- come a greatly enjoyed article. One sis- ter enjoys the buying, the other one en- joys the wearing. It is all trimmed after ihe latest fashion, and matches the wear- er's smartest dress. Just think what a delightful yuletide gift! A brand-new hat for Christmas! And, by the way, have you seen the new tilted hats the shops are showing? , HELEN WARD. O APPEAR well dressed is a question of considerable study and perplexity to the woman of moderate income who desires to reflect credit on her family and maintain her self-respect. There are two maxims which the woman who would accomplish this must observe: ‘ Never go to extremes is the first one. Patronize only the best shops is the second. ‘When the time for purchasing the win- ter wardrobe arrives, the first thing to do is to get pencil and paper and figure what amount can justly be set aside for the necessary clothes. Choose the wardrobe with great care, beginning with the things most needed. When this is satisfactorily done, have in mind the styles desired and proceed to the best shops for the materfals. For street wear in the morning nothing looks so neat as a perfect fitting tailor gown with white collar, cuffs and tie. An English walking hat or black velvet toque is more suitable to wear with this cos- tume than a befeathered Gainsborough. For afternoon shopping instead of the linen collar, a jabot of chiffon or ribbon and lace can be worn. With the tailor-made gown, common- sense shoes and neat gloves are g neces- ity. The handsomer the gown the more tntyerly is the effect spoiled by shabby boots and soiled gloves. Apropos of gloves it must be remem- bered that either the castor or glace glove are the best form for morning wear. For afternoon or evening, suede is the chosen article, These come in all shades of light tan and gray, which are the most fashion- able tints of the moment. The white glace kid 7lovel with black stitchings are completely out of style. This'is rather to be deplored, as there is CDRISTMAS SDOPPERS. no glove more beco adding so much to the general toilet, Next to the street costume the most necessary article is the winter coat, should be chosen ‘ivt."lh reference to the s to be worn. h simpler it is the better, unless a tO’\l;Cl? 3§ {‘i‘l{i (‘:n be lnd;llged in. Mink is one S season’s favorites. The should be fairly long—trom five 33°{‘§é inches below the bel WenrarLGow, the belt, according to the ming to the hand or I_[ is never wise to select an extreme style. A conservative jacket or gown looks well for several seasons, whereas the novelty jacket appears date when' the season 1o pasts.ad]y oL ot A stylish calling costume added to the wardrobe. material would But it must be maker, and must talls. The hat to be worn with the calling gown can safely be of velvet, and plumes. Again, the shape and size of the wear- er's face would determine the style of the hat. One of the new French capes would complete this costume. If it is made of light tan-colored broadcloth, cut in cir- cular flounces, it can be worn with other goWvns as well. The cape fastens at the throat with antique silver chains. The collar is extremely high and is of broadcloth on both sides, but the cape is lined throughout with some pretty con- trasting shade of taffeta. A theater biouse must now be added. it should be of some delicate, becoming shade, but the texture must vary accord- ing to the purse.” Those of soft ma- terials like chiffon are prettiest, but a silk blouse will be more serviceable. If one frequents the theaters it is necessary to have several of these, and they can be planned s0 as to answer many pur- poses. A tight-jitting yoke and sleeves can be made on a thin slip to be worn under- neath a low-neck and sleeveless corsage daintily trimmed. The corsage should be of color that harmonizes with several tints. Then it can be worn with different color yokes, giving the effect of an en- tirely new walist. A soft black silk skirt does not crush and retains its freshness for a number of seasons. It looks dressy, and when worn with a light, becoming blouse is very ef- fective and more comfortable than a street dress. Evening dress is very be- coming to most people, and it is needless to say that the effect is more brilllant when the ladies are gowned in light colors. The European custom of wearing semi- decollete gowns to most evening enter- should be The color and depend upon the wearer. made by a good dress- be perfect in small de- tainments is really economical. It pre- vents wearing the freshness off the more costly street costumes by sitting for hours in the narrow seats of the theaters. Winter is a particularly exasperating the use of their allowance, spending reck- lessly for things they happen to have a special fancy for. They should plan a general outfit on a financlally mathe- cal ground. m’?‘g Bulfl it all up—tailor-made gowns, jackets and coats should never be made at home. But house gowns, wrappers, matinees, silk and flannel petticoats, corset covers, dressing sacques, opera capes, fancy neckwear, chemisettes and guimps come under the possibility of a woman of skill and taste. If the income is limited the n)flkh}g of these things will save a great deal of money. \'Isnirng dinner or ball gowns should be put into the hands of the best modistes within the limit of the purchaser’s price, for they require the master hand to insure success. (@OST OF TBE WINTER @IRL. HE winter girl is not content with one or even two kinds of fur wraps; her wardrobe must contain furs for all occasions. She will have a collar of ermine, a jacket of broad-tail, a stone marten boa, a fur-lined cape, a skating gown trimmed with fox, etc. You see it costs a great deal to be a typical winter girl. However, one can have a reasonable variety of furs without goin~ to an exaggerated expense. Little touches of fashionabie fur in the form of dainty neckwear give the much-de- sired finish to simple toilets. To be sure, they must be built upon the very latest model. What could be prettier and more flattering, for example, than a certain collar of marten. The fur, cut in one long . strip a little wider than a regular collar band, is arranged in and out in the shape of leops attached to a straight strip of satin just long enough to encircle the neck. The fastening in front is covered with a bunch of marten tails or a pretty bow of colored panne centered upon a jeweled buckle. TiasTs 18 LIEU OF PETTICOETS. T S e e R style of skirts, which is on the princesse plan. This is an absurd rumor and one HERE is a report from Paris that women are to give up wearing pet- the new shades of blue. It has quite a long skirt and is trimmed down the front with rows of a darker blue velvet an inch in width, four rows on either side. These start close together at the walst line, and rradually spread, until at the foot of the skirt they are the width of the front breadth apart; at the side of the front breadth they form a half circle, start again, and go around the sides and back. The walst is tight-fitting in the back; in front it blouses a little and is opened to show a full waistcoat of burnt orange vel- vet. On the fronts of the waist are lines of the same velvet as those on the skirt. These lines are wide on the shoulder and taper into a point at the walst line, where they exactly correspond to the lines of velvet on the skirt. The belt is also of a dark blue velvet, fastened with a very small gold buckle. The orange velvet waistcoat or front is quite ful._and is fastened with small gilt buttons. It is'cut in V shape at the throat and shows an inside vest of white satin antique, fas- tened with three larger gold buttons. The collar is a plain high stock collar, over which is worn a white lace tie that fastens at the throat in a bow. e FRILLS OF Rassion. HIS is the day of tollet accessories. Fancy belts, girdles, low-cut peasant ’ waists over guimpes with sleeves to match; chatelaineeffects insilkcord, handsome ribbon, jewels linked with novel devices in gold or silver filigree, or more solid designs frosted or delicately chased —all these are in great vogue and con- stant use, and the latest fancy is to wear the costly gem-set belt buckle at the back of the waist. The jewel-trimmed belts on some of the dress models from Paris sometimes show two narrow, oblong buckles joined by a clasp at the back. ¥ A vparticularly handsome costume of royal purple cloth has one of the tight skirts, fitting beautifully over the hips and widening out into fans at the foot of each seam to give width round the hem. The short, tight-fitting coat crosses over at the waist, where it buttons with one enameled button. The wide revers and the turn-down collar are of purple and white velvet in small, confused checks, edged with mlnk.. T The tiny toque is a thing of the past. There are toques, to be sure, but they are not tiny. The up-to-date toque is rather wide, turns square up from the face and is ornamented with buckles and many feathers. The prettiest arrangement of Hats to Be Worn With Tailor Made Gowns. season in which to practice economy. The demands of fashions call for such a lavish expenditure, It is the season for furs, brocades, velvets, chenilles, costly hand embroideries and jeweled buttons. The solution of this question is possible by one means only, and that is for those having limited incomes to abandon dress- ing on anywhere near the same basis with those who have fortunes to spend. By studying how to preserve an air of smartness along with simplicity there need by no unhappiness, nor any disin- clination to mingle in the society of those who can buy what they chose. Women are often very injudicious in that will only be carried out by eccentric individuals who have money enough to dress as they will one day and _then change their entire style the next. While there should be no unnecessary fullness either in the unuer or over skirt. there must be sufficient to make the gown look, to say the least, decent. The old-fashioned polonaise is revived again, but is now in the form of the close- fitting underskirt and close-fitting walst, with a pattern of trimming- that is the same on both walist and skirt. This car- ries out the idea of its being all in one, but is infinitely easier to have made. A smart gown in polonaise style is in one of feathers on toques is the cluster of soft upright plumes with a curling aigrette floating back Irt:m t.hem‘ Cashmeres have once more returned to the favor they deserve; there is nothing like them for grace or for durability. They lend themselves admirably to the soft, falling draperies of the moment. They are a good groundwork for chenille em- broideries. and, like all the rest of the shaped skirts, are made with a distinct close foundation of silk. They are cer- tainly cheap for what they are—soft on one side and fluffy on the other—the weaving diagonal. 0000000000000 000000000000000O00O00000000000000000000000 Q000000 0000000C0000000000000000000C BESG DRESS FOR RAINY WEAGHER By Mme. Hygeia. 000000 © 0000000000000 000Q0000200000 This department is for the benefit of all those who are interested in the science of cosmetics and the hy- giene of proper living. If any one desires information on either of these subjects their questions will be cheer- fully answered in these columns. Write as often as you like, ask as many questions as you please and sign any name that you choose. Address all communications to Mme. Hygeia, The Sunday Call, San Francisco. HE rainy season is upon us—that is, it ought to be, but it isn’t; for, alas! the sun still smiles and the sky is as sweetly blue as the eves of a babe that has just come through the gates of paradise. And this despite the fact that the farmers and even the churches themselvés have been sending up agonizing appeals for a be- stowal of moisture upon the parched, hard earth. However, it must come soon, and as in times of peace it is well to prepare for war, let the sensible woman hie her to a shoe store and invest in a pair of calf- skin boots with good half-inch thick soles. Then let her buy some storm serge and have it made into a skirt that will escape the ground all round by at least four inches. There was never anything more sensible proposed in the way of dress re- form than this rainy weather costume. For three years the women of New York: have been wearing rainy weather frocks. The women of Chicago and other large citles have been slow in following suit, but they are gradually falling into line while S8an Francisco, with a tenacity such as a bulldog displays when he plants his teeth in his victim’s neck, still clings to her dragging, dripping petticoats. Could there possibly be anything more hideous than the long, sloppy skirts, be- draggled at the hem and clutched into ungalnly folds that are to be seen upon our streets in dozens when the rain is pelting down upon the sidewalks? Another horror which is fast fading from sight and memory is the bad tem- per and_typhoid breeding rubber mackin- tosh. Hot sweats one moment and cold chills the next is the delightful condition in which these things keep one. A short skirt, a golf cape, a firmly built big umbrella, a close-fitting Fedora, un- der which the straggling locks are pinned tightly back, and a pair of stout calfskin Proper Way to Make a Stock. boots, and a_ woman is prepared to BO forth and do battle with all the tempests that ever raged in Uncle Sam’s domain, This costume is the only sensible rainy weather costume, and I feel quite certain that women with really truly brains and their full allowance of good sense will take to it as bables do to rattles. Therefore, let us rejoice; for with the feet kept dry and warm, two horrors at least will be avoided—red noses and un- healthful complexions. Whatever makes us strong will also make us beautiful; so let us greet this one particular reform idea as we would a relative who has mil- lions and no apparent her. Once more I want to say to the many who have written to me and asked for personal replies, that I really cannot grant these unless it is to give an ad- dress or some information fhat cannot be printed in these columns. So please be satisfled with answers in this paper. And to the impatient ones who write to me and then write again the following week to say that they looked in Sunday’s pa- Per and found no answer to their quer- es, let me say that they must first “wait a wee and dinna weary”; that not one letter that reaches me will be slighted. Each one will be answered in its turn. It may be three or even four weeks be- fore you will find your answers, but they will surely appear unless the presses break down or some new planet comes along and smashes our poor old earth into smithereens. So possess your souls in patience. e Answers to Correspondents. EVELYN J.—Am very sorry that I could not give you a reply the Sunday fol- lowing your letter as you requested, but there were many letters in ahead of yours. Let me advise you to invest in a camel’s hair face scrubbing brush. Give the face a fentle scrubbing every night, using a little castile soap and plenty of tepid water. After thoroughly rinsing the soap from the face a good cold cream should be rubbed into the skin. I feel quite certain that the following will not cause superfluous hair to grow: Sperma- ceti, one ounce; white wax, one ounce; oil of sweet almonas, five ounces; rose ‘water, one and three-fourths ounces, and twenty grains of borax. Melt the first three ingredients in a porcelain kettle over a slow fire, and be sure not to let the mixture bofl. Remove from the heat and add the rosewater, in which the borax has been dissolved. Fluff up with an egg- beater, As the quantities given will fill an elfl-fl-ounce Jjar, one-half the quantity will .enough to begin with. After the pores have been entirely emptied of the sebaceous matter contained in them, you can use the lotion recommended in fore- going answer to Busy Bee. The occasion- al steaming of the face is excellent, par- ticularly when there are blackheads. ANNETTE D.—You will find formula for a good cold cream in foregoing reply to Evelyn J. After thoroughly cleansing the face with tepid water and castile soap, smear the cold cream on the face and rub it well into the skin with the fingers, us- ing a circular, upward and outward move- ment. Wipe away the grease that re- mains with a soft towel, and the following morning rub a damp cloth over the face. In using lemon juice on the skin let it dry on, and then apply your cold cream. IDA M.—Do not use vaseline on the lit- tle one's scalp, as all such greasy applics tions collect dust and irritate the cuticle. See that the scalp is kept perfectly clean by a weekly shampoo and frequent brush- ing. Let the brushing be firm but gentle. Then you might try this tonic: Four ounces eau de. cologne, one-quarter ounce tincture cantharides, and one-fourth dram each of oil of lavender and oil of rose- mary. ApFly to the roots once a day, us- ing a small sponge for the purpose. The orange flower skin food is just what your skin needs. Use it according to the direc- tions that 1 have so frequently given. Thank you very much for the recipe which you enclosed. I shall add it to my collection. NAOMI—Steaming the face will make it perspire. That is the only thing T know of that will have that effect. Olive oil taken as you suggest is very good indeed. It is fattening, and shoui® not induce Flmples. Lanoline. used in its pure state s very apt to cause superfluous hair to sprout. B. L.—There is_absolutely nothing that will remove. the ‘down from the arms per- manently. Rubbing a plece of finely cut pumice-stone daily over the superfluous hairs will keep them worn down close to the surface of the skin. If they are dark, peroxide of hydrogen will bleach them so that thei" will be less noticeable. C. N. —If you will follow directions glven to Busy Bee and Evelyn J. for coarse pores, I am sure you will be re- stored to happiness. If the pores are clogged at all it will be impossible to cleanse them without using soap, The pure imported castile will not make the hair grow. Nothing is better for an irri- tated skin than boracic acid used in the proper proportion. The following exer- cises are excellent for reducing the size of the hips and stomach: Stand with the heels together and try to touch the floor with the tips of the fingers without bend- ing the knees. Then lie flat upon the back upon the floor and raise the body to a sitting posture. Repeat these exer- cises ten or fifteen times each night. . C. 8.—I am more than pleased that my recipes have brought you such good results. Walking will develop the hips, but, really, as you have lost so much flesh, the best way to increase the size of the hips is to add to your weight by eat- ing plenty of fattening foods, taking mod- erate exercise and all the rest you can possibly get out of this life of hurry and turmoil. BIRDIE LE—Walking will develop the limbs, particularly the calves of the legs. Massage the thin neck with lanoline part- ly melted; also use the breathing exer- Clsf;. full directions for which were given in *“beauty talk” of November 13. reat- ment for pimples must begin by removing the troubles that cause them. Look after your digestion. Eat neither greasy, salty nor acld foods, and take into your stom- ach only those things which will make good blood, firm muscles and well built tissues. The sponge bath every day wail assist in ridding the skin of its secre- tions, and should not be forgotten for a single day. Eat plenty of fruit for break- fast, and shun sweetmeats and soda water as you would a plague. Exercise regular- 1y, and sleep in a_well ventilated room: and if the pimples don’t pick up their hats and depart write to me again, and we will try some other manner of getting rid of them. Rubbing the cheeks with the orange flower skin food will fill out the hollows. LADY BUG—A lunar caustic pencil will remove the little warts. Touch the cen- ter of the wart lightly with the caustic pencil once a day. It will furn black and gradunllK disappear. Be very careful not to get the caustic on any other part of the skin. A special “beauty talk’’ on the care of the hands has appeared since your letter was written. In it you no doubt found the Informafion you require on that subject. I am positive that the following tooth powder will not harm the teeth: Carbonated magnesia (powdered) 6 parts; orris root, 2 parts; pure powdere soap, half a part. To make the hair stay in curl, use this bandoline, before using it ug: Gum_tragacanth, 1% drachms; Proo: ?irlt, 3 ounces; aftar of rose, 3 drops; distilled water, 7 ounces. A pretty ‘way for a young girl to dress her hair is to part it, wave and loosely coil it away from the temples. Braild the back hair, turn it up and fasten with a pretty buckle pin. AN OLD READER—Fifteen grains of borax dissolved in one ounce of lemon juice are the proportions. Apply to the face at night, after washing. t it dry on the skin and_then apply the following cold cream: Spermaceti, 1% ounces; pure white wax, ounce; sweet almond oil, 1% ounces; Tose water, % ounce. Take a smail porcelain kettle and in it break the white wax and the spermaceti. Add the oil of almonds, and set the ket- tle inside another one containing boiling water. Keep at a gentle heat and stir with a silver spoon until the three ingre- dients are thoroughly incorporated. e- move from the fire and pour in quickly the rose water, stirring briskly all the while. It will soon begin to whiten and to thicken. As the beating continues it will fluff up like the white of an egg. At that moment Eut it in small porcelain jars and set them away in a cool place. "An egg-beater is better than a spoon to do 3 be“"}’f th, " DIAMOND—From what you have told me I judge that your liver is in a disor- dered condition, which accounts for the discoloration and- yellow spots on the face, also for the whites of the eyes not being clear. The only treatment that will remedy these conditions is to go to your family physician and get him to give you a good strong liver medicine. To enlarge the bust massage with equal parts of cocoa bhutter, lanoline and cocoanut oil melted together, Heat before applying and massage every night for fifteen min- utes, rubbing around and around and up. Let the rubbing be gvevmle, as the glands are very sensitive. ear loose clothing and discard all pads. It will be at least seven weeks before any development will be noticeable, but it “will surely come. Swinging Indian clubs will help, ‘and the breathing exerclsegeglven in e Call of November 13 will be of inestimable value The Latest: Rough Rider Hat and Collar. in increasing the width of the chest. Walking and moderate bicycling will en- large the thighs and calves. You ask me what would be becoming to a girl Wwith fair complexion, light blue eyes and light drab hair. 1 'presume you mean what colors may best be worn with this coloring. I would suggest as the colors to be avoided by this type fawn colors, tan colors, reds, browns, blue, white, lay- ender, grays. yellows and all rich tones of clarets, marcon, purple, etc. A creamy white ‘will be ‘found most becoming. White, by casting reflected lights, clears the complexion, although if the complex- fon lacks brilliancy white may easily be used in great quantity. This can only be determined by experiment. Black satin or anything black with a bright surface may be worn to advantage; pale pink, pale blue and invisible green. There is no prettier combination for your type than a simple little blue and white muslin gown, with a touch of black velvet rib- bon in the form of sash’or bows. If you will use the cucumber lotion, formula for which is given in answer to Busy Bee, I think you will find that it will whiten the skin_ nicely. 3 MRS. W our letter was answered in the Sunday Call’ of November 27. Hope you saw it. LOLO—If you will read foregoing reply to Diamond yvou will find directions for enlarging the bust. MARGARET O.—You no_ doubt found e answer to your first letter in The “all for November 27. Rub the lotion only on the scar. There is really-very lit- tle that can be done for this trouble, and I doubt if-the lotion will be of much benefit. However, it cannot possibly do any harm and may help. BUSY BEE—Am delighted to welcome you to the ranks of my beauty students. It is somewhat of a task to read and answer all the questions that come to my department, but. I assure you it is an enjoyable one, and I am tremen- dously pleased when my correspond- ents write to me, as many of them do, and_ tell me that my advice has bene- fited them. I have a recipe that I am sure will be just the thing for you and for your friend also. Here it is. Take a half pint bottle and place in it three table- spoonfuls of fresh uncooked cucumber juice. Half fill the bottle with elder flower water, and then add two tablespoonfuls of eau de cologne. Shake well and add very slowly half an ounce of simple tine- ture of benzoin, shaking the mixture now and then. Fill the bottle with elder flower water. This will keep for a year. Be sure that there are no settlings in the benzoin, else it will be apt to curdle the lotion. ~This will whiten the skin and gradually contract the pores. Perhaps the powder that you use is too heavy for your skin. Try the powder that I gave formula for to Ethel B. in Sunday issue of Novem- ber 27. Your skin food is probably all right. It is not quite as hard, as ordinary cold cream, but is somewhat thicker than thick cream. Use the camelshair face brush and pure castile soap on the face each night—you and your friend also. The pores may seem to be a trifie larger when you first begin this treatment, but it will certainly end in refining the skin. I am sorry I cannot answer authorita- tively your last question. It is rather out of my line, as you say, and I really do not gelleve there is any other form of the ame. COSTUME WITH OVERSKIRT. Piain Cloth and Plaid Velvet,