The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 6, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 189w. 27 AR/VUUVURURURRUIBURLBRBUNBBRURURR (RNRW® tractive one is of satin, with a shaped atious re de follow wish to_have the look like t are ar- n five-feet- feet. To frock after the model of v shortening the skirt, is appearance. How gs and geegaws of a a harmonious resting the materials and owns bear in mind that watchword for a nsider whether or , for too often zh for school,” has ary butt of f her schoolmates. have reached the } in scroll de- 1 both p m e applied with ored silks that har- Tho gow in profus arly pre velvet rimming, > wa and ofte x t may 2 graded flounce ds good for mall h is placed d frill of y between the little beyond the ed around ‘the or bands of vere small fancy dec- lars in all shapes 1, with the square igear for children more picturesque ttle children wear as-old as 7 or 8 ing little pokes 1 laces. White small children, and t or satin are very soil easily, and the vy pretty in browns, imed with the white wear large plcture hats ation_of the ones.that vear. The crown is very ¢’ Shanter shape, and is ered with a drape of softer rim is also very full and n and brim is sometimes a of white satin ribbon, which tie in front of the hat in _a large t h the bow may be fastened » ostrich Ty ¢s tied under the ‘chin. d to children, whether thelr oung_childran wear hats Tam o' Shanter of Velvet and Plumes. & % and mununnn IRRRNNNRRRR earance, mind, soul or body, ted. Like flowers they blos~ wonderfully with a little care persc is 1 som ver out attention. GOWN e TRIMMINGS. ASHION does not trouble herself about such details, but how is the Wwoman who has no mald to, get into and out of the bodices, prin- cess polonaises and skirts that lace or button at the back? Chief among the noveltles imported for woman's wearing are gowns that close in the manner mentioned. The graceful fig- ure will profit by this latest style, but it is to -be hoped that none but women with graceful figures will attempt it. The height of skirt-elegance 1§ the one that fits smooth over the hips, laces for the length of the placket at the back and flares out in fair fashion toward the bottom. This would not be at all becom- ing to the woman with large hips, for the den hip-spring has gone entirely out style. If nature has endowed you with that do not slope gradually, then wear a skirt that is filled a bit at the back waist line. The very slender woman one who w then the skiliful modiste until there is the most g curves. The sam It is ea: will pad adorable way wit their patrons’ a band > or ribbon the le the knack of makur an 100k too fussy and well your sfigure be- trimmings for your nfest bands of fur will edge the f which the most beautiful even- > fashioned. an example lly beautiful fur and gauze can combination, one should see a re- finished pale’ pink silk muslin fig- all over with pink apple blossoms, long overskirt is finished with three luated rows of white satin ribbon, at the very edge being a narrow Tow Sef ble. The unde irt is of pleated nink muslin over pink silk. The fur trims the decolletage and forms the shoulder straps atin ribbor muslin. will be worn in th e pretty girl, to whom this attra ively odd frock belongs 'his very ble blending of the bloss: the furs that pr 0st po ople blossom aings is really e TULLE TIES WITH FUR. ERE is something new in winter time ties that I am certain will the fancy of evéry girl who novel and becoming things. likes This is the ruff with long tles made of chenille-dotted tulle d run with npar- Tow s of fur. T ruff is made with the fabric doubled and gathered so full that it forms shells, just in the way the chiffon ruffs have been made for some seasons, The long ends are crossed by the bands of fur, set on about four or five inches apart! The effect is all v For exam- Ty pretty. ple, there is a pink tulle tie, with black and on this is put fine black fur, ver: dot: or gable & ted with w swansdow. pret A blue tulle dot- has narrow strips of white e fur is joined to the tulle by a row of narrow spangled pa menterie or velvet to match the dot. The ruffs of black and white are really the prettiest and most suitable for street wear, the light colored ones being de- signed for evening wear. Short ties made of fur are worn with the tailor suits, but the build of the col- lars or capes and coats does not permit of the w 20 the fash- fonable tie one that will go_nicely in ing though - been noted long scarfs of Brussels net and lace will be much in &vidence, the biz bows under the chin belng most becom- ing. It is a fact that the high, stiff collar wrought havoc to woman’s neck.. I ve been hopefully looking for fashion to take one of those extreme moves and tell us that all our gowns must have low, turned-over collars, just like our mothers used to wear, but there is no sign yet of their coming. It is an encouraging fact, however, that collars, though high, gre not as stiff as ste The stock of lace or ribbon is q e modish, indeed. Even the velvet collars are surprisingly com- fortable. There are no more bows at the back of the collar or the sides. All bows, if they are worn at all, come squarely un- der the chin., There are a great many novelties in fichus, a particularly at- Mo>deled Afier the Pokas of “Lony Az ruffle and long stolelike pleated ends. This has a row of big rosettes qf baby ribbon set all around where the ruffle joins the rounded fichu. There is a quaint air about the fichu that makes it .en- trancingly becoming to the woman pos- gessed "of a pensive and plcturesque heauty. M. Vivier, a Parisian dog tallor, has just been interviewed by an English newspaper. Asked whether there were fashions in dogs’ dresses, M. Vivier re- plied: “Exactly as there are fashions for ladies and gentlemen. We follow the ladies’ fashions. Thus this winter what will be mainly worn is pearl gray and a peculiar shade of green known as ‘gros vert,” and our clothes for dogs will be made in these colors as well as in the materials which may ultimately be fixed upon by the great dressmakers as ‘the correct thing.’ The fashions for dogs are definitely settled upon in Oc- tober, after I have had time to go around the big dressmakers’' shops to examine; the models for the coming winter season and to see what is being worn. Thus I have to ascertain whether during the ensuing season the collars of ladies’ jackets will be turned down or in the Medicis style. This year the Medicis collar has been in great favor. “Ready-made. goeds would be quite useless for dogs,” sald M. Vivier, “and all our customers are dressed to meas- ure. See there,” and he pointed to the walls of his workshop, against which numerous pieces of stout paper cut out in weird forimns were hanging on files, ‘“those are the patterns pf our various customers. Each dog—that is to say, each ‘customer—has hig own pattern. ‘We have to measure the length of his back, then we go round his neck and then round the loins. The Newest Princess Evening Gown Falling in Long, Unbroken, Graceful Lines. The leading model for evening and dinner gowns Is the princess. There are other fetching designs, but none is so highly approved of as the princess, It falls in long lines, unbroken at the waist by belt or seam. The curves must be perfect, without a scrap too much of fullness, still without an air of skimpiness. This would spoil 1t all. They are so cut that they fall in ample folds, yet so disposed that they follow the figure and.do not flare out in the angular and .aggressive way of the “umbrella” skirt with its six yards of width and frightful depth of velvet. As the heavier fabrics hang best in the princess one finds such gowns mainly in satins and velvets. There are heavler silks that make up beautifully in this style and some new ‘poplins’ showing figures in silk brocade. The evening princesses are worn with either, long or short sleeves, while the necks are cut low. sleeves are long they are usually made of unlined shirred gauze, a sleeve, is approved by the woman who las a well shaped arm. The princess is an egtreme departure from the beruffled gown that a short time, ago was thought the most entrancing. Ruffled fluffy styles belong more to the summer season. If the The short puff, that is barely an excuse for Elegance Ig tha dasirable kev- note to the winter styles, and the princess meodel lends itself gracefully to this. g ., "I////Ilunml“““? (i (e "“{.fl'} e I Wiy Dainty Frock Trimmed' in Velvet Ribbon. Latest Coats for Children. BREBERBURARRURBREAARBRRRIRINRORURRRS & 8 o k3 o \ 2 b : % & 8 88 % F3 2 e s 5 e ] - ds 5 8 2 2 8 : AN AID TO BEAUTY : 2 3 8 4 s 3 F 8 4 {1 @ £ ;s By Mme. Hygeia. o o 7 NN NN N RN RN SRR RNRR NSRS This department is for the benefit of all those who are interested in cos- metics and the hygiene of proper living. Correspondence is cordially invited. Ask as many questions as you like and sign any name that' you choose. Ad- dress all communications to Mme. Hygeia, The Sunday Call, San Francisco. HERE is nothing in the world so important when one starts out to acquire physical loveliness as to learn how to carry the body prop- erly. Health and grace, without which beauty cannot exist, depend upon the carriage of the body. Rounding shoulders bring about narrow chests. Narrow chests restrict the action of the lungs, and weakness of the lungs pro- duces a tendency to stoop. And while there is a popular belief that the line of beauty is curved, this does not apply in the case of one’s spine,”for the spine of beauty, I assure you, is as straight as the stern line of duty is supposed to be. So the very first thing to learn is to stand- erect. ‘“Head up, shoulders back and down, bust out and stomach in,” is a rule for standing and walking that can- not he improved upon. However, to be erect it is not necessary to sway so far back as to give beholders an uncomfortable sensation that you are in imminent danger of falling over back- ward and distributing your brains upon the pavement. If a woman stands correctly, a plumb line dropped from a point marked by the tip of her nose will meet at a point one inch in front of her great toe. The .arms should be allowed free move- ment; in fac 0 relaxed as to fall in natura al positions. Distribute the veig equally upon both feet. So many women have a habit of standing.upon one foot, thus causing one hip to become higher than ghe other. Turn the toes well out. To be “pigeon- toed” or “parrot-toed” may be considered beautiful in the realm of the Mikado, but the American maiden must “toe out.” ‘When a child shows a tendency to steop and become round-shouldered, the best way to correct the inclination is to place a book upon her head and in each hand a bucket containing equal amounts of water, and make her walk the length of the hall or yard several times daily with- out spilling the water or letting the book fall. This will be rather a difficult feat at first, hut if persevered in will surely result in a queenly carriage. I wish there were military schools for girls as there are for boys, where the teaching of how to walk and breathe correctly is a part of the curriculum. I think women are beginning to give greater attention to the laws of health than they did a quarter of a century ago. The improved feminine physique of the present day, the athletic out-of-door life that many of our giris indulge in is evi- dence that they are beginning to realize that pale fragility, that blow-away-at-a- breath look is not beautiful and that to retain the full glory of their womanhood they must pave health and strength. Of course, there are public clubs and gymnasiums here, where women can go and exercise, but I wonder why none of you girls have ever got up a private gymnasium. That’s a splenflid scheme, girls. Doesn’t some one of you happen to have in her house an unused room, or a large, airy attic, that could be used for this purpose? Invite only your most cherished friends to join, secure the service of a competent teacher of physical culture, and then meet together once or twice a week and swing clubs, twist overhand bars, vault, tumble and perform on the trapeze. The pleasure of the moment, cheerful com- panionship and laughter will add greatly fo the benefits this exercise, and my word for it, after a time some of you will be scarcely recognizable, your physieal development will be so marked and your complexions so much brightened. For the girl who cannot afford the lux- ury of a gymnasium, there are simple oalisthenics thatican’ ba performed at any hnn{e, without apparatus or aid of kind. The following exercises, if indulged in every day, will help wonderfully toward arriving at that physical perfection that S0 _many women are striving for. First of all then, take the correct stand- ing position described in the first part of this talk. Now, take from ten to twelve long, full but’ slow inspirations of air, breathing and exhaling through the nos- trils. Then desecribe a circular movement with each arm fifteen times in succession. Ex- tend the arms forward, outward and up- ward, twenty times in succession. Take eight or ten deep inspirations. xecute a circular movement from the walst, swaying the upper part of the body sloggly round, the hands resting on the hips, twenty times. Ixtend the leg as nearly at right an- gles with the body as possible, ten times each side. Taxe eight or ten deep inspi- rations. Extend and bend the foot fifteen times each side; perform the gesture of reaping or sawing twenty times; bend each knee rapidly fifteen times; take eight or ten in- spirations. R; the arm swiftly and rapidly ten times in succession; throw out both arms simultaneously fifteen or twenty times; take eight or ten deep inspirations. Lie down flat upon the floor or upon the bed with arms laid straight by the side, then without changing in the least the position of the legs and feet, raise the trunk slowly to a sitting posture. After a moment’s rest, drop back again to a re- cumbent position and repeat ten times. Bend the head forward and then back- ward gently ten times. Then move it sideways, first one way and then the other. Never continue these exercises to the point of exhaustion, or they will prove injurious instead of beneficial. For weak- 1y girls the movements must be modified or curtailed, and they must always stop Poke Modeled After the Peasants, when tired. The room chosen for this ex- ercise should be airy and the dress light. No corset or other tight garment must be worn. As to the proper mode of breath- vell, 1 find I am at the end of my and besides, ‘“that's another il Answers. to Gorrespondents. EVELEEN-I am quite sure this'is the first letter from you that has reached me. Am glad you wrote again. For the hol- lows in the shoulders massage with'equal parts of cocoa butter, lanolin and cocoa- nut oil melted togethe: Heat before ap- plylng and massage every night for ten or fifteen minutes. To Increase flesh cease worrying and get lots of sleep. Eat starchy, fattening foods such as rice, but- ter, cereals, eggs, milk and game, tapioca, sago, vermicelli, custard, cheese and salad served with plenty of oil, but no vinegar. Eat plenty of fruit; it {s the best com- plexion medicine in the world, and if the biliousness continues, get your druggist to prepare some three-grain taraxacum pills for you. Take one twice a day, as long as the system seems to require it. Oatmeal s better than bran for whiten- ing the skin. Take some good oatmeal, boil it in water for an hour, strain and use the liquid to wash with night and morning. Try this wash for the freckles: Three gralns borax, five drams rosewater, five drams elder flower water. Apply im- mediately after coming in out of the sun. You cannot cleanse the body thoroughly without the use of soap. If it is pure it will not cause hal 0 grow. I am really afraid to suggest anything to darken the eyelashes. It is adfully risky to apply any sort of a lotion, for it is sure to get into the eyes and weaken or injure them. I am Sorry. There! I believe there is not a guestion left unanswered. I regret that I could not gives you an answer in the “next Sunday's Call,” as you requested, but were I to reply in the next issue to all the letters that come to me during the w Id have to have an entire page all to myself. CRADAVUS—I am quite certain that I answered your first letter. Di write to me over. the name *‘Bloss: The answer appeared in the Sunda of September 18. I do not understand just what you mean by a “pink complex- fon.” Most people are striving for a e skin. I know of no way of mak- ing the hands small, nor can I tell you of anything that will make any percepti- ble difference in their smoothness and whiteness, after one application. There is no way of making the fingers taper, except to put them into little thimble- shaped appliances that come for the pur- pose. To make the hair grow apply this tonic to the scalp every night: Oil of sweet almonds, 3) grammes; essence of rosemary, 30 grammes; oil of mace, 1 gramme. While using this tonic wash the hair once a week with white castile soap. F. F. F.—Stop using the sage tea upon the falling hair and use e following, which is a splendid invigorator: KEight ounces of cologne, one ounce tincture of cantharides; one-half dram oil of English lavender and one-half dram oil of rose- mary. ' Apply to the roots of the hair once or twice a day, using a small sponge for the purpose. Shampoo once a week. To whiten and soften the skin when bath- ing combine equal parts of shaved eastile soap, almond meal and powdered orris root. Put into cheesecloth bags and use in the bath. = Or you can use the almond meal alone in the same way. B. K.—Am very pleased that my edvice has been of help to you. You might try reducing the size of your hips by the following exercises: Stand with the heels close together and try and touch the floor with the tips of the fingers without bend- ing the knees. Then lie flat upon the back on the floor and raise the body to a sitting posture. Repeat these exercises ten or fifteen times each night. They may help, but I rather think mechanical massage Is the only thing that will re- duce them. This can be had at some one of the beauty shops. A. A. B.—For answer to your question about reducing size of abdomen and hips, please read foregoing reply to B. K. think it very likely that the flushing and nervousness, also the condition of your skin, arise from a disordered digestion, al- though poor circulation may be the cause. If from the former cause, you must remedy that condition before you can hope for immumity from facial troubles. If poor circulation is the cau take plenty of exercise in the open sleep in a well-ventilated room, eat nou ishing food, take tepid baths and bathe the feet in hot water before retiring for the night. 1 do not I)rf‘s('rlhc tonies. Bleaches which remove the cuticleentirely are often very dangerous, as the main in- gredient js usually corrosive sublimate, a deadly poison. So I prefer not to give you a formula for anything that will re- move the outer skin. Lemon juice is as strong_an_acid as any one should ever apply to the face. A little borax added to it makes it more effective, as borax is very whitening. Cold cream should al- ways. be used after the lemon juice. As I do not know the exact shade of your hair nor the color you wish to make it I can- not tell you what to use on it. Sage tea, made very strong, will darken light hair slightly, but whether it would make the ahadegau desire or not, I could not say. SCHOQLGIRL — A pretty way for a schoolgi¥l to dress her hair is to part It, wave and loosely coil it away from the temples. Then braid the back hair, turn it up and fasten with one of the new buckle pins. Bonnet That Will Keep Little Ears Warm. PICTURESQUE POKES AUD FETGHING FROGKS FOR TBE LITTLE ONES. & 4