The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 21, 1898, Page 27

DAY, LATEST HAT FOR MORNING WEAR r with very fa; mming consists nable girls and is the f a band of black velvet any blouse front or back. It was trimmed with white needlework of open EW YORK, Aug. 19.—It is fajr Pattern. The needlework was arranged h R to form a point in the front; it w ull to me ihat all children at the shoulders and two rowssgf it iay esting to women, and one gver the other, making a sort of ) that every woman is in- shoulder epaulet. ested in childrep. Nothing With the littie dress went a collarette than a Of mull, which was to be worn when the to little girl was on dr parade. The collar- and ob op ette consisted of two mull ruffies shirred aes upon broad scarlet ribbon which was becomes & tied at the back of the neck. "hen the girl was at play this little collarette could be taken off, showing the neck of the dress, finished with a very tiny band Are of white insertion dress: he dress had every color in_it, and any t least t hat could be worn with it. 1 should ad- e a small flat hat with a pointed crown trimmed with a great bunch of cerise rib- bon in front, no other trimming being Little s are wearing the most bril- 1 liant stocking: stead of the somber black which encased their calves in pre- vious years, red, white and blue stock- ings are_worn and the ever-beautiful plaids. This little vas to wear a pair of patriotic stockings—red and blue upon a groundwork of white. The little shoes were of white canvas. When solled these little shoes can be cleaned with pipeclay or with magnesia. If they are solled very much they can be scrubbed with gasoline and a toothbrush. If gaso- is used care must be taken not to ig- by friction. tockings are never very hand- t evening, when a little worn, or on_certain but colored stockings ul. They do not: turn and_they have a much The plain colors are, sirable than the plaids, and white plaids are ver: ke an ordinary decidedly of a W were never-fading to durability. thing about very desirable It has so many was very much z06ds were colors ting some which is sh sort, and the mixed for chil- different There gaods you do not n thread plaid are blu Scarlet, wa smart, but unfortunately they are rather belt of open wor expensive. They come as high as 33, al- n the top of though you can on bargain days get them Through open work inser- for much less a bright cerise ribbon was run. Very industrious women are knitting yon was tied In a big bow at the these stockings for their little ones, the walst. using coarse cotton which greatly re- waist was rounded with scarcely sembles darning cotton. It comes 2 COMFORTABLE PLAY-DAY DRESS. 2 FOR THE AUGUST ?7, —=YOUNGOTERS=— skelns and can be wound in balls. Home-made stockings should be made with very large feet, or the toes will poke out long before the legs are worn. There is a firm which sells feet for stockings, so that every pair of stockings can be re- footed. The pattern js very simple and I should say could be duplicated at home. Almost any woman can cut a pattern of a stock- ing foot. For these you should obtain a foot like the remainder of the hose. A very serviceable little play gown is made of tan batiste with a biack stripe running through it. This black stripe Is very pretty upon the tan. Batiste s a material which varles greatly in thick- ness, according to the quality you buy. It is like ladies’ cloth; you can get it light or heavy. A good material for a child is the linen batiste, which Is not quite trans- parent, yet shows the skirt beneath. Lit- tle slips are of all colors. Buff, vellow, saffron and tan come for wearing under these little dresses. The batiste skirt of the little dress which T have in mind was gored so that it set quite smooth around the waist and upon the hips. Below the waist it flared suddenly, until it was very full around the knees. It was faced With a Luwi w. black brilliantine only a quarter of an fnch wide upon the front of the goods. The walst of this little dress was plait- NEAT ed. It was belted with a tan belt elab- orately embroidered in black. The yoke of the dress was scarlet embroidered upon white muslin. At the shoulders were white ribbons with a fancy finishing of red along the edges. Boys' suits are made of crash, duck ard denim. Tnese three materials come in all grades. You can get them for ten cents a yard. The patriotic colors—red, white and blue—are, of course, being the most popular, an. it is a badly used child who does not possess a coat and vest and a palr of trousers in blue or white. trim- med with scarlet military braid. WARD. upon her own physical perfection, Many women there are who are already HELEN F\'Em’mm\' notices with a degree =2 that sleeves are undeniably grow- wearing really tight sleeves, and among of joy or disappointment dependent ing *“small and beautifully le: these the old-time complaint is repeating WASH FROCK itself like an echo of the far past, “How these things do stretch and pull out of shape!” This Is gspecially the trouble with unlined sleeves made of thin ma- terial, that pretty mode that intensifies the beauty of curves and whiteness of skin beneath. It is in the pulling on and off that tight sleeves have been torn and spolled. A new method of adjustment, recently concocted by a clever little woman who thinks, and which has been quickly adopted by several of the leading dressmakers’ establish- ments, is designed to do awn{ with this wear and tear and inconvenlence. The new sleeve has but one seam, and is made a full inch too loose for the arm. Down the outside of the seam s sewn a very fine cord of silk elastic. This Is twisted at intervals of half an inch or less into small raised loops. The elastic must match ex- actly the color of the gown. Parallel with the range of loops and separated by an inch from it is a row of tiny buttons. "Is it not simple? The sleeve, amply large, is drawn on with ease; then the wee elastic loops are slipped over the buttons, that correspond with them in numbers, and the sleeve becomes tight. In removing the are first unbuttoned, and the sleeve saved from stretching. It is a practical idea and one that can followed, and will be appreciated by any one who has ever ruined fine sleeves in the donning and doffing. 2\ \\\\&v FOR A CHILD. 00000000 BY MME. HYGEIA. 000000000000 CO0000000OO0000DOOCCOOODO0000000000000000000 General Rules for Beau oeekers. 0000000 000000000000 00000000000200000002000MN000C000000000000000 This aepartment is for the benefit if all those who are interested in the science of cosmetics and the hy- giene of proper living. If any one desires information on either of these subjects their questions will be cheer- fully answered in these columns. Write as often as you like, ask as many questions as you please and sign any name that you choose. Address all communications to M.me. Hygeia, The Sunday Call, San Franesico. WONDER how many of my beauty seekers, in using the various recipes that I have given them, combine with their use a strictly hygienic method of living? 1 think that I have not sufficiently emphasized this point. The skin must be kept In a state of ab- solute cleanliness in order to perform its proper functions, which can only be ac- complished by the daily sponge bath and a good, hard scrubbing with hot water, soap and a flesh brush at least once a week. The blood must be kept from getting sluggish by plenty of exercise regularly taken, and it must-be kept in a state of perfect purity by strict attention to the diet. Overeating, irregular eating and indulgence In rich foods, pastries and hot breads do more damage to fair, soft skins than anything else, for they cause various forms of Indigestion and invariably make the complexion coarse, high col- ored and greasy, and bring blackheads, imples and all sorts of unsightly erup- fons. Women never seem to understand ‘that beauty food can be put into the stomach as well as smeared upon the face, All the beauty pomades and local applications In the world will have no ef- fect unless these general laws of health are religiously attended to. Another thing that I have not before spoken of is this: Women do not drink enough water. At least three pints of filtered water should be drunk each day. Hot water is better than cold, particular- ly early In the morning. It is a good plan to take a cup of hot water a half<hour be- fore each meal and before retiring. Take from five to fifteen minutes to drink tne water. It will wadh from the stomach the mucous, alcoholic and sour yeasts and bile. i)o not nibble sweets at odd hours. If ou must nibble betwéen meals, then let Yt be fruits, nearly all of which are nu- tritious and healthful. You can find no better complexion beautifier than ‘“ff 80 eat as many of them as you can. Lef tuce; watercress and all green salads are also excellent for the complexion, and an occasional teaspoonful of olive ofl is good, t00. Last, but not least, beauty-seeking fem- (nlnlti; must indulge In lots of sleep. With- out this natural restorative great physis cal beauty is out of the question. Tired nerves and brokendown tissues are cer- tainly not conducive to a high form of beauty, and in order to keep the exhaust- ed forces of the body in proper repair sleep {s absolutely necessary. A certaln amount of tissue is destroyed and vitality exhausted each day that must be renewed. During sleep all volun- tary movements are suspended, but the vital functions of respiration and circu- lation.are still carried on, although less rapidly~Consequently, a reserve force is accumulated ready for the demands of the next day, and one awakes rested and refreshed. Some geop]e require more sleep than others, but every one should have at least eight hours, and ten, to my mind, is not tog much. A good rule-is to retire promptly at 10 each night and rise at 8§ the following morning. The hours from 10 to 12 are thought to be those in which the most repair is made, and hence the sleep gained in them is called the “beauty sleep.”” 1 knew a woman once who made it a rule to retire regulnrl{ every night at 9 o'clock, with the exception of one night in each week, which she kept as a recep- tion night for her friends, or in case she cared to spend an evening out. She never let anything interfere with this rule. And I assure you that her complexion rivaled in fairness, smoothness and fineness of texture the most exquisite piece of Pa- rian marble, and she attributed most of it to h:r religious regularity in this one re- spect. Perfect ventilation is an absolute ne- cessity in the sleeping apartment, for, if there is not sufficient oxygen to purify the blood properly one will toss restlessly to and fro : .d sleep, If not altogether im- ossible, will be so disturbed that it will e of little benefit. Have the pillow upon which you sleep just high enough to raise the head so as to be even with the shoulders. If you c¢an sleep without a pil- low so much the better. As a recapitulation to this talk I would like to add the German Emperor's “rule of life,”” which was given him by his fa- yorite physician, and to which he ascribes 18 good health and vigor. It is: “Eat frult for breakfast. Eat fruit for lunch. Avold ‘mstry and hot cakes. Take pota- toes only once a day. Do not take tea of coffee. alk four miles every day, wet or fine. 'Take a bath every day. ~Wash the face every night Sleep eight hours every night. bbbl s ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. A SUBSCRIBER—If the hairs are coarse and scattered, I would advise ih electric needle. If fine and quite numers ous, I know of no better way than to put prepared chalk ~= the upper lip, and then with the fingers, which have also bwen dipped in the chalk, pluck them out. [t is only fair to tell you that after this thoy will return and the operation will have to be repeated. I do not believe that sclence has ever yet discovered a pefmanent cure for wLus hotror. Depllatory powders are usually worthless, as they merely burn the hair off to the surface of the skin, and it promptly returns. For the red hands use the oatmeal louond formula for which in Y‘um water, was given in the Sunday Call, August 14, MYRTLE E.—The formula that you as] for is: Gum tragacanth, 1% drams; rno¥ spirit, 3 ounces; attar of rose, 3 dArops; diatilled water, 7 ounces. TF It shou show on your hair a little brushing will remove it. For dandruff, wash the hair every two or three weeks, using the fol- lowing as a shampoo: Yelk of one egg, pint of distilled water, and one ounce rosemary gpirits. Beat the mixture thors oughly and use It warm, rubbing it well into the scalp. Be sure and rinse the halr in several waters after using, else the hair will be sticky and horrid. Be« sides removing the dandruff, this will mu? the halr soft and silky. DESPAIR—The hair falling in such HANDSOME LOW quantities denotes a disordered physical condition. Be careful as to diet, take reg- ular_exercise and keep the skin in good condition by taking a dally tepid sponge bath. I would also advise you to take syrup of hypophosphates occasionally, and to drink orange phosphates before meals. Msssnfmg the scalp gently with the fingers, which have been barely damp- ened in lukewarm water, will invigorate the hair roots. Try this tonic: Bay rum, one pint; aldohol, one-half pint; castor oll, one-half ounce; tincture cantharides, one-half ounce; carbonate of ammonia, one-eighth ounce. Mix well and apply to the scalp every other night, mas- ng with the finger tips. 1TY—Benzoin diluted in water is a 5006 skin tonic, but must be used with iscrimination. Its qualities form a new epidermis, and if the old skin happens to be in a condition to be cast you will look as though you were shedding your com- plexion. This, of course, if you use too much of it. Be sure and gef the simple tincture, and the proper proportions are about a_teaspoonful to a half pint of water. The best way to use it is to have a slight quantity of it incorporated in your cold cream and use that every night. I doubt if it will positively prevent wrinkles, but it may help. The tiny hairs will re- turn and the operation will have to be re- remed. probably about once a month. The ady about whom you ask is interested in the business, which is carried on under her name only to the extent of allowing her name to be used. The firm went into bankruptey a year or so ago and was sold out, since when she has taken no active part in the business. W. C. GREY—Please see advice given only ~instead of using the bed for her try this for the and dandruff: cologne, 8§ ounces; cantharides, 1 ounce; oll Engl der, % dram; oil rosemary. % dram. This is particularly -good for dry, harsh hair. Apply merely to the roots once or twice. 3 TROUBLES—In setting up paper last Sunday my letter to you became discon- nected in some way. The oatmeal lotion which tumbled over into the next column was what I prescribed for you. SILVEIA VN—Here is the formula for rouge paste: Melt 2% parts white wax, 50 parts spermaceti, 50 parts ofl of sweet almonds. When melted add drop by drop 33 parts rosewater. Beat briskly with a silver spoon or an egg beater, and when cold beat in enough powdered car- mine to color flroperly, The longer tlits 1s whipped the finer and better it will be. In answer to Belle in issue of August 14 1 gave directions for makin% the skin food. No doubt you saw it. he: orange flower water must be added, drop by drop, but quickly enough to_get it all in while the cream is hot. Be sure and warm the jar slightly before putting it in. If it does not mix properly you can al- ways melt it a second time and beat over again. I did not give vou formula for Almondine before, because I did not know it, nor do I yet. Tell the brother to read foregoing reply to W. C. Grey for treat- ment of dandruff. M. A.—T confidently assert that there is nothing that will actually restore the color to gray hair. The only cure is the temporary one of a stain or dye. Prema- ture gray hair Is caused, as you say, by the failure of the mineral ingredients in the pigment. At the first sign of gray hajr a good iron tonic prescribed by a physician should be tukgn regularly, and at the same time a tonic should be op- tincture h laven- 990999 oSoce o0 PATRIOTISM 29 NECK DRESSING. plied to the roots of the hair. Rubbing claret into the scalp will, by strengthen- ing and invigorating the hair bulbs, often bring back the natural tints. The fol- lowing hair tonic is excellent: Two drams tincture cantharides, six drams essence of rosemary, eleven ounces elder flower water. I beg of you not to use any of the so-called ‘“‘restorers.” One of my correspondents has written to me that she used one and it rotted her hair to such an -extent that she had every reason to fear that she would become bald. I hope that you will get some comfort ont of the treatment I have pre- scribed. UNE ANGLAISE—I feel sure that when you regain your health the things that cause you so much worry now will ad- just themselves. Cease worrying and fretting. You will never regain your fresh, youthful appearance until {0“ do. As rour hair is a golden brown, I would advise using the plain claret an it, omitting the iron. This _lat- ter has a slight darkening effect, and as your halr is already too dark at the roots, I would not advise it. Please read what I have sald to M. A. on this subject. Keep the hair in a state of perfect cleaniiness, by frequent brush- ing and a shampoo whenever necessary. Try the egg shampoo, which I .ave sev- eral times given recipes for. It will be particularly beneficial in your case. I can tell you of no way to lighten the roots of iour hair except by bleaching, and I should not advise to commence anything of that sort, for, of, course, as the hair grows out, it will still be dark at the roots, and the bleach would have to be ap- plied over and over again. 1 think a little lemon julce and rosewa- ter applied to the end of your nose for several nights will remove the discolora- tion in the pores. If it makes the skin tender, apply cold cream. I really can- not recommend any patent dye or ‘re- storer.”” You say that I advised a cor- respondent to use a good dye on the eyelashes. If you will read that letter again you will find that I advised it for the eyebrows and not the eyelashes. 1 particularly said that it was not to be used on the lashes. Massaging the throat with the orange flower skin food should make {t firm and pretty again. Here is the formula for a very excellent cucum- ber cream: One ounce almond ofl. One ounce green ofl. Two ounces juice of cucumbers. One ounce white wax. One ounce spermaceti. Two ounces essence of cucumber. The rose leaf lotion will keep for some time; the brandy, of course, preserves it. For the brittle nails, I would suggest that you apply, every night before going to bed, a good cold cream, rubbing it into the nEIF so that it is absorbed. Then, when you are able to get out, go, once a week, to a manicure who thoroughly un- derstands the treatment of nalls in the condition that yours are. MRS. L. K.—Burning pains in the feet are sometimes caused by imperfect cir- culation. Indigestion also causes them at times. If from the latter cause remedy that and tne effect will disappear. Try bathing the feet in a solution of boracic acid, and if that does not relieve them I will tell you of something else. MATILDA—Try remedy for dandruff suggested to W. C. Grey. you =5 SRecs oo sBBas0002°? AND USEFULNESS COMBINED.