The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 17, 1898, Page 28

THE SAN FRANCIS€O CALL, SUNDAY, JULY 17, 1898. ENING GIRL sp HER DROP SKIRT Special to the Sunday Call, imer. They are absolutely primitive in their simplicity, Bands of plain black \“el\'et fnislt('l;w? wm]| hfln old square gold . 2 S clasp, gold chains with little chains hang- girl ‘f the summer wears & | ing from them, Strings of beads and oven ; { bands of ribbon are worn around the unds a little startling to | neck. Trimmings destroy the contour of )RK, July 15—The even- ninitiated, but those who ihr:"o.en;rr;m and shorten the beautiful long o he fashionbEaderatasa: thi e between a woman's ears and her he gusl unde wifu‘; hat | shoulders; but it must be confessed that Is a ve handsome | these little neck ornaments are very be- ng which is made free from |coming. They seem to soften the face s. It h plain all around and | 2nd set it off,’as a frame softens, sets off iog It is made of as |and brings out a picture, There Is the greatest fancy f, a = by 095 BB ea ancy for artificial C ”!f material as the summer | fiowers for afternoon and evening. These rd. | come in silk, highly scented, and are as ome summer trousseaus every | BeAUtITul s’ tho most_ pertect originals. Srop akirk ‘Ttisnas b A 'y are, by the extreme of the flower- e ey be & oloth | maker's art, shaped and shaded untll you neath there will be a handsome | cannot tell them from the natural article. | In._ many respects they are superior, for th do not wilt. atural flowers, on the | r hand, fade soon; roses have their of the drop skirt, when | vhich tear the hands and dress t when thin materials flowers are moist and dewy, and underskirt showed | it spoils the dress to pin them on. \erefore a nice lining was |, But the silk flowers are big and soft and ally, iihis ‘nica ialng ¢ 1. and they have a scent delicion e American beauties, in the! ik rop SHIEt: TUiNRs 80 | S, are pinned on the e In every respect that | <o also are other summer flowers, ned great vogue <0, now, when- | to the geranium, that flower of the people. | The n {in ti ir st brilliant red geraniums, set off it bunchy green leaves, are made | into bunches that Took preciseiy as though new fash- | grew in the kitchen garden, and are th both | WOrn on white dresses, making a contrast | you may look erwom. | 25 rural as one would please. skirt with | o Gloves in the ballroom are very com- sl | fortable. Any woman who dances the raises the | whole evening with gloves on will tell ! characterize it as slovenliness. Said an intelligent salesman in a prominent shoe- store, in is the reasc over and outward when walking: ‘‘Because they are wearing or have worn shoes that are too short and too flat for them. The short shoe crowds the foot back into a curved position, and the flat sole offers no support for the arch; consequently the _ligaments hecome strained and relaxed, that part of the foot loses strength and cannot uphold it- self, and it naturally turns over and in, th throwing the heel out as you de- scribe. I have at least twenty such cases among my customers. They have come to me in that condition, and I am ‘treat- ing’ them by fitting their shoes properly, and in some instances 1 am also obliged to reinforce the shoes along the inner side of the instep to give the support they | need when their fect have ‘broken down’ | “It is a delicate task to remedy the | aifficulty, for women are sensitive and do not like to be told that they have been wearing shoes too short for them and have broken down their feet. They do not so much mind being told their shoes have been too flat for them, for every woman likes to believe she has a pretty instep. I convert and cure them after a while, though, and their heels straight ever af! | tinue to wear properly fitted shoes. If | women only would believe how much prettier a long shoe with a straight heel looks to ‘him’ than a short one with a twisted heel, short shoes would soon be a drug on the market and we would have no more cases of inturned heels to treat. The New Floral Badice and the Miniature Two very popular styles for evening wear. Bodice. S you that she much prefers them to the bare han Gloves have a certain_ab- {s that of | Sorbent property which is very comfort- - | able when dancing. They keep the hands trimming | delicate and tender and protect them ig does the drop | from rubbing upon the rough sleeves of the men’s coats. Besides these little per- sonal points, gloves are a matter of eti- quette, at a hop « e a Wo ng oc- z up her the drop ch just above the el- hese protect the arm and give lothed look which is often more be- the bare arm. With very gloves are shly desirable, and without them no woman can hope to be a belle in the ball- room. By the same token a man should wear gloves in the summer baliroom, and he der gloves that re bows 2 ita coming than ballroom oile short sleeves the shoulder hi term, Whi ite as than any | who does not do so lays himself open to s now so | criticism. To be sure, he may carry a ndkerchief in his hand to protect the gown had ies’ dresses, but gloves are more in g leaves em- te. als of about four: The materials for summer. evening of the em- | dresses are very numerous. In fact, you of thickly | cannot enter a store without being shown It a dainty [ a number of new ones, but all will be f The drop | found to have tlie same quality, namely, | half | that of transparency. The gauze goods made the dress bob | continue to lead the evening styles. Any rom si side as the wearer | thin goods, no matter how cheap it may walk be, can be made up into a beautiful aft- t was made tight fitting in the | ernoon dress, or a dress for dinner or one the was made into two | for nice evening occasions. ich bloused slightly | A 5-cent mull can be trimmed with The neck was only | frilled bands of baby ribbon, each frill :te, and was finished | edged with narrow lace and with a belt ybon used in the skirt I bon were three apels were cut on the bias med with plain satinribbon, thin- red, so that they had the appear- ills. They widened out over the and almost completely covered | puff. The long gloves were of " hed with a_beautiful yellow, arti- pinned on the nd around the and neck strip of contrasting velvet. So decorated it can pass muster along with the nicest and most expensive evening fabrics, provided that it be built upon a good lining. The popular linings are those that are in the new colors and of these you have a wide and vewildering variety. HELEN WARD. s g OBOE-BEEL DTUDIES OWN at the heels” is an expression generally signifying .adversity. Sometimes it is_contradictory in its application. This is' proved by the number of disfigured, dilapidated heels seen glancing in and out from under silken petticoats, and petticoats with lace on them, and I often wonder if their own- om 1 r stood against a decorated a moment, 100King across room Back of her were ght chrysa emums upon their paper setting. Her s .were across the room and there was ane near her, but in ea a fold of her light, de 3 ing it that her drop skirt wa e matter to arrange the u so that every dress , without terrfble st dresses are made plaited or gathered i b so that they hang| ers realize the value, in every sense of 1 put on together. | the word, of “a pair of clean heels"—tidy where ceonomy ls desired—and du heels to match their trim ankles and chic this war summer ne dnes desire economy—the drop s costumes. > be put on sepa and the “Disfigured heels” are those which re- sult from the heel of the individual bear- ing_ heavily inward, thus throwing the heel of the shoe actually outward and causing it to rest on its inner side instead of the under surface intended. As will be seen the effect of a rear view is that of a malformation. Some. observers would ult is just as good, ity of bands around a ist a tendency to make touter; but slender women > this into account. said for the little neck mings which women wear this sum- put on over it LOOK TO YOUR HEELS, LADIES, ¥ RED BRI - There come this year very nice shoul- | are | —that is, if they con- | curve go as to follow or be felt along the sole of the foot, which always needs sup- port. It is useless to try to fit all feet with a ‘common-sense’ or a ‘Spanish arch’ shoe; and the former is not com- mon sense when worn on a foot arched in the under part of the instep any more than a ‘Spanish arch’ would be on a foot “A foot will also break down, even if a shoe is long enough, if it is too flat. A flat or ‘common-sense’ shoe will break | down any foot having an arched or hol- | low instep. The sole of a shoe should ( =3 £ ped =3 o b= L HERE is nothing that will so ma- terially aid the seexer after beauty as .he plentiful consump- tion of fruit. And now that the markets are overflowing with dame nature’s spring dainties, it is a pity that womankind persists in dabbing her face with all sorts of pomades and lo- tions, instead of putting into her stomach this healthiul beauty food. Fruit is a panacea for most complexion ills. “At the same time, a word of warn- ing is necessary, for there are many per- sons for whom fruit is most unwhole- some, particularly the orange and the strawberry, on account of the free acid which they contain. This acid to some persons is a violent poison and will cause a most unsightly rash to break out, in some cases, In a very few minutes after the fruit has been consumed. All fruit should be used without sugar, for the sugar in no way neutralizes the acid of the fruit. For this purpose some alkali would be necessary. Ripe, mellow peaches agree with almost every one, for they stimulate the stomach. Apples and grapes are most valuable as aids to beauty. For a sallow, oily skin there is nothing in the world better than a grape diet, while apples, either raw or baked, are an excellent remedy for va- lrlluus forms of indigestion and torpid ver. ‘Which makes me think of the story of the woman who consulted a self-styled clairvoyant, instead of a physician. “You are afflicted with a torpid liver,” asserted the clairvoyant. ‘How do you know?” the patient. “J seen the—torpids, ant response. As 1 said before, the strawberry is pois- onous to some; to others it is a valuable tonic, being said to contain a larger per- centage of iron than any other fruit. The banana in the countries where it grows forms an important part of the diet of the inhabitants, but those that come to us are picked green and their ripening is demanded was the triumph- | most delightful, and which as flat as the proverbial flounder. POPULAR W querade as ‘‘sweet sixteen” and “bread and butter fourteen” this this, but it is nevertheless the fact. In “pigtails,” “Gretchen braids,” whatever braids—two of them, falling down the ‘hack—thp modern glrl is to appear from Of course after lunch she will put up her halr in the most proper and precise What is accomplished by wearing the hair in long bralds is that it Is given have now developed the theory that a | good rest about once a year is what a e such delicate colors this summer that one is tempted to pay the price and to ming. At one of the dances given for young wore a dress of almond leaf India linen with straight cut skirt and a walst that siste&tl of double box plaits laid front ana back with embroidery set in between. and was set over this almond leaf green linen so as to show the design in the lace cut out underneath, but was fastened on tightly to the gown as though’it were Around the foot of the skirt was a Span- ish ruffle in green linen with garlands of —_— HE summer girl of 1898 wears red Jackets, blue skirts and white tennis, or climbs or rows. Red, white and blue scarfs trim her sailor hats. her bicycles. The national colors appear tipping her walking sticks. Pins—hat pins, pins—are patriotic, or there is no excuse for their being. market has appeared on the counters and in the shop windows in the form of smal with diminutive American flags. Some of these sunshades have only a border of white and blue stripes, and others have u striped border of the national colors. at New York weddings to pay bridesmaids with jingling coin,” e VENTY-FIVE and thirty will mas- summer. You will hardly credit vou please to call them, but sure enough now on in the country, in the mornings. coiffure. what is known as a ‘“rest.”” Hair experts head of hair nee(?& ]:[NDIA linen, while not cheap, comes in economize if necessary on the trim- Mrs. Clarence Mackay, a beautiful blonde was a model in severe treatment. It con- The embroidery in this case was black to perfection. The embroidery was not woven in it. green leaves at the head. PUNSBADES stockings when she plays golf or Red, white and blue streamers decorate lace pins, every kind and description ot The latest patriotic mode put upon the white taffeta parasols stamped all over flags, while others are composed of red P OR some time it has been the habit says a German family weekly. ¢ ?( .\. ¥ ! W (/ \“g.).é\r:. \ ~ N Evening Gown of Voile, the New Material Which Cap Best Bez.Described as a Mzdley of Chiffon and Silk business. At a recent wedding held in | nails each night before going to bed wllh{commuhlé;ted to me. The condition o New York there were no less than fifteen bridesmaids, who were all punctually paid. Besides the beautiful tollets, given by the bride's father, they each received $30 for appearing in the wedding train. There are young ladies who accept as much as $100 for their ‘office of honor.” “One woman.” continues the Teuton journalist, ‘““who is much sought after for her beauty, has appeared as bridesmaid at more than two hundred weddings, and has in a short time amassed quite a little fortune, besides many costly presents she “Bridesmaidship’ ni this way becomes a | received.” BY MME. HYGEIA, most indigestible, and should never be eaten unless they have been baked. The best time to eat fruit is in the morning, and it should be taken at least an hour before the morning meal, which, with most Americans, consists principally of a bowl of cereals. Starches and sugars are converted only in an alkaline medium. So, if the mush is taken into the stomach im- mediately after the fruit, the acid of the latter combining with the starch of the former, causes a fermentation that isany- thing but pleasant or conducive to health. All fruits should have the skins removed before eating. This skin is very indigest- ible and is covered with minute germs, which develop rapidly under favorable conditions of warmth. So, if you want beauty, which is but a pleasanter name for health, and its nec- essary accompaniment, a fine complexion, eat fruit and plenty of it. As many of you as can keep always on your table such fruit as apples, peaches, apricots, nectarines, dates and figs, grapes, plums, cherries and an occasional cooked pear. Oranges, lemons, currants, cranberries and strawberries should be used most sparingly, particularly by those persons who are affected with rheumatism or gouty symptoms. There are a number of cosmetics made upon a basis of fresh fruiis which are can be made very easily at this season of the year. Tl}e following is one of these and is called: STRAWBERRY TOILET VINEGAR. Macerate four pounds of fresh strawberries; add four ounces of strong acetic_acid; let stand four- teen days and then strain. A half teacupful of this vinegar poured into the bath will prove delight- fully invigorating to the surface of the body. STRAWBERRY CREAM. Strawberry cream is one of the most delicate and healing emolients known to cosmetic science and is to be used in the place of cold cream. Here is the formula: Put six ounces of sweet almond oil into the inside receptacle of a custard boiler. Set the two—one inside of the other—over the fire. really a form of decay. They are then - Have ready one large quart of LA X X4 9@’&@@‘)@@@\‘»@@@@@@@0@@0@6000&00@9000000000060000000500&6000000000000000000 IF YOU WOULDP NOT HAVE CUPID TAKE TO HIS. T [s3=R=FFoFoPeRoRoRFegegegePoPaFegeF-FoFeFeFeFeReFegegegegegaFoRageFetegegogugegagagaFeg-FoFeFoFgeFgaPalad FRUIT 45 40 41D TO 8%4UTY. o o o o pal L f=gcgeRegeRefeRoRoReRegeg-FoFReRe2-Ro2-FaFeFeF=FeRReRegeFegoRReTeFaReToF o P -RoFoRo PR uPaRuBoRaPeotar= Nl This department is for the benefit of all beauty-seekers, and correspondence is cordially invited. Questions will be answered in these columns. Sign any name that you choose and address all commu- nications to Mme. Hygeia, The Sunday Call, San Francisco. ripe fresh strawberries. If possible the berries should not be washed before using. If they are not sandy it will be safe to omit washing. Hull them carefully, brush off any small particles of dust or sand with a fine, soft brush. When the al- mond ofl is about Jukewarm put the strawberries in the oil. Set the custard boiler on the back of the stove; cover the inner receptacle containin, the strawberries and almond ofl and let the water in the outer receptacle simmer tor four or five hours. Strain through a bolt- ing-cloth bag. To six ounces of the strained liquid add one ounce of white wax, one ounce of sperma- ceti and two ounces of lanoline. Heat until the wax, spermaceti and lanoline have melted; then take off the fire and beat constantly with an egg-beater until cold. While beating add, a drop or two at a time, two teaspoonfuls of tincture of benzoin and five drops of oil of lemon. Keep in earthen pots in a cool place. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. CALL SUBSCRIBER, NEVADA CITY. —The “no” in last Sunday’s paper was in answer to a question asked me by another “Call Subscriber.” Your letter came- too late to receive attention last week. The preparation you refer to can be analyzed, of course. Any competent chemist can do this for you, and the cost will be about $25. Nearly all face bleaches contain cor- rosive sublimate which s, in itself a deadly poison. It is extremely risky pur- ting anything upon the face that could not be taken into the stomach, for poisons are absorbed into the system, through the pores of the skin, just as thoroughly as through the stomac! READER OF THE CALL.—Here is a freckle lotion: Sal ammoniac (powdered) 1"dram; distilled water 1 pint; eau de cologne 2 fluld drams. You might try this, but as you say yours are the “all year round” kind I doubt if it will remove them. Nothing but an application of some good beauty paste, kept on for sev- eral ‘days to fade them out, will do for them. 1 have given directions several times for treatment for blackheads. To increase the growth of the eyebrows trim once in a while just the least tiny bit, and use this wash: Get one ounce of al cohol and in it dissolve five grains of qui- nine. Apply this every other night and on the other nights massage very gently with the fingers dipped in pure olive oil, slightly warmed. LENA A.—There is nothing that will remove superflious hairs satisfac- torily unless it is the electric needle, and as ‘I have said before, even that some: times fails. If the growth is fine and not too abundant apply prepared chalk and ‘pluck it out in bunches with the’fingers, ‘which have also been dipped in the chalk. N.—I can’t make out the first name that you signed in your letter. You must have seen in previous issues of the Sunday Call full directions for treatment of pimpley and blackheads. If you have not, write to me, inclose stamp, and I will write it out once miore. - For the chapped lips and rough skin use cold cream, formula for which has been given several times. For information as to thin brows and lashes, read answers to Reader of The Call and Mona Earl. Rub the brittle a good cold cream, rubbing it well into | your skin, no doubt, is the | the nails, so that it is absorbed. Extreme brittleness sometimes comes from wasnh- ing the hands t en MISS MONA EARL.—Corn flower water | is the only thing I know of that will make | the eye lashes grow. Steep sixty-five grains of the corn flowers (bruised) in one quart of water for twenty-four hours. Strain and distill. Bathe the lashes in the liquid thus obtained. I can tell you of | nothing that will make the eves appear | |larger than they are, or that will darken their color. I cannot recommend adver- tised remedies, or anything that I do not know the ingredients of. AURORA FLOYD—Here is the formula for a pure facé powder. One-quarter pound of pure rice powder (Lubin’s_preferred) Six drops oil of rose Three grains of carmine. Mix by_sifting_over and over again. Don't, I beg of you, use a pencil .to darken the eyebrows. There is something indescribably common in such a practice, and it gives one a most uncleanly appear- ance. Try suggestion given to Reader of the all. If this does not do, then use the least ever, don't apply anything to the eve- lashes, as there is danger of its getting into the eyes. e UNE ANGLAISE-It is very seldom that my advice is asked in cases of dis- ease, but should I be sonsulted at any time by any of my readers as to the par- ticular affliction in which you are so in-. terested I shall be more than glad to le YA PATRIOTIC - COLORS. rampant on. every ‘“smart” girl's ‘“‘sweater” this-year. It is tosbe no longer the custom to have these useful garments of athletes simple and plain. They must be adorned, and, elabo- rately, at that. Nor will any device do. Just. one emblem is to be the fashion—the flags embroidered, though fashion leaves it to the discretion of the wearer to ap- way, harmful hair dye that you can find. How- | y, thi | one gramme. them have the benefit of what you have| and not to the hair. ATRIOTISM will be manifest and American flag, large or small as preferred. ' The very best form, will be to have these' plique the flag on, if she prefers it that. ult of you run down condition. I fear that ver little can be done for the scar and brok blood vessels. ctricity them, but'I very much dov advise you to bathe the s frequently in witch haz inflammation. If there might try pinehing v - “quite the size of it. I W subject of wrinkles in last As for the coarse pores, they ar stinate alw but I will give mula for a sulphur wash that is be excellent. It clears the skin and slow the pores closer ether: ipitated sulphur, 1 dram. . 4 drams. 3% ounces. Rub this into the skin at night, jus before going to bed Where there is ten, por: the face should-ne in hot water. I would t remedies first if I were , and then special treatment is necessary, . will advise you further on the subject. JULIA M.—A tiny, soft toil brush it often efficacious in wiping aw the dus f the hair. The yolk of an egs cleansing and cellent for andruff but, where the hair is very oily, I woulc Zest for the shampoo the use of pure castile soap, and to th quarts of ho water add a small ¢ rt spoonful—nc more—of ammonia and a pinch of borax To make the hair grow apply this tonic to the s 'y night: Oil of swee almond r: sence o rosema oil of mace g the tonic wast the hair once a week W the castile soap. The tonic is rather oily and carc must be taken to apply it only to the s se i &r While v