The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 22, 1898, Page 24

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, S THE is getting her summer halr ready! summer girl | Don’t be shocked; this doesn’t rily mean that she is pur- in artificial coiffure or 1 imported chignon, wn—horrible thought— getting her hair bleach on; r girl avolds all plies their lack h a very fashionable hairdressing of her own. When I say the summer girl Is getting her summer hair “reads that she tume a great de The styles for summer hair is either very high or very low. That is as she may far But the hair must be puffed around the face. This is arbitrary. You must take your hair and form it into a reach! from ear to of th Marlborough puft, ear across the crown or you cannot hope to be really le. If air parted you you want to wear y need puff only th is_quite necessary. There are fot styles for the s Marlborough or mad, ‘] without air across_ the at tr V' “half curely with a str that matches your own ha will not show. Comb the over your face and pin dour puff or “rat” in it on each side and comb the front h 2 and fasten it with ha at the point where the hair is tl Twist a knot or a very nice figure § and braid it or the but puff and distinctive One is the This is it the n long pompa- r. Fasten the hs on the top. over the CURLY HEAD coll it—just as you may Before beginning to the hair it is a good thing to wave tne entire front. To wave it properly take a very large hair curler and heat it. Open the curl er wide and twi strand around the bar of iron. to the very end of the bar. clamp upon it igh to count and hold it slowly. Rele you will find a long cur until the whol 1 i distinctive certain coiffure which r by the little comedi- "0x curl consists of a rl_right in the middle of the fore- The hair is turned back he The s d is then nt and given a twist makes the center ed up at temples and the coiffure is com- pleted by twisting the hair in a curl at the crown of the head and sticking fancy pins in it The distressing points so obsery ble in square _foreheac be obviated by these little temp They may be s tight or loose, only tr hort and sure to stay in curl. > have low eads can re do not need these temple curls. The beauty coiffure is the prettiest one of all. It is adaoted to all faces and the woman who wants to be very sure of looking well can follow it. It can be t entirely of long hair and is Jects the best coiffure for sum- made almc in all res mer us To fashion the beaut essary to have the The hair should be shampooed at le once a month and, preferab e weeks yrder to kK perabundance of natural the aid of the hair-curler, w the entire front, sides and back of the hair where it borders on the neck, and colffure it is nec- well shampooed. gather it up h’)oseli’_l and tie in the middle of the back of the head. Twist it upward and roll until it forms a small flat coil projecting slightly above the crown of the head. Now heat the tongs and stick them in the hair wherever a smooth place is seen until the whole of the hair lies in ripples. Pull the front locks back- ward, sticking hairpins in them to hold them in place, and rejoice if your hair has the look of a mass of curls. This is affected by geniuses and literary women. Kuehne Beveric does Mrs. Robert Louis Sarah Grand; and the and the Women's Press Club of New York all fall into it now and then. The literary coiffure is made by part- ing the hair well on one side. It is then twisted in a big double wave at each side of the parting. Below this there is anoth- er wave and still another until the ears are covered. The back hair, which has been previously tied low on the neck, is re-enforced with these side pieces and the entire hair is braided low at the back of the neck. It is then doubled under and finished with a very neat bow of ribbon to match the gown. The little coiffure is completed with a big shell or silver comb stuck in the top. A word about the use of halr ribbons. Let them be absolutely fresh. “Do not wear a ribbon more than once” is the ad- vice glven by a very celebrated fashion writer of Parfs. This, however, is S0 ex- pensive that the average woman cannot follow it. Better to make a small bow and use it two or three times with great care. But if a ribbon is actually tied around the hair it becomes too soiled at one using to be presentable again. Combs for the hair are high and very ornamental. You can scarcely get them too fancy. A woman of the Latin quarter of New York gave a Bohemian tea to her artistic friends, She wore the literary coiffure, and nestling in her hair was a comb of huge proportions. The top was of black bent work of a nature that did not readily reveal itself. The lady ex- plained afterward that the comb was made by herself of bent fron work and was_fitted to the teeth of a small back comb. A great deal is possible with these shell combs, and one can really make very pretty combs. Although this is not actually advocated, an instance may be mentioned of a comb that attracted much attention and was certainly cheap. A woman who belongs to the aforemen- tioned literary clique of New York was desirous of wearing a suit of cerise or coral red. When it came to her hair she rejected the small cerise bow of rihbon provided her, and, selecting a large rub- ber comb, she dipped it in melted sealin wax until it became a very beautiful an gorgeous ornament for the hair. Its small curves showed off beautifully in the red wax, and its gloss made it the most attractive decoration imaginable. The style of wearing the hair depends this summer less upon the shape of the face than ever before. Every woman, no matter how broad her face may be, wears the side puffs if she feels like it, and ev- ery woman, no matter how tall her face may be, wears the high pompadour if she wants fo. This pompadour, however, is not adapt- ed to either the sailor or the alpine hat, and should be left out of the coiffure when these hats are worn. As it is to be a curl summer, it would be refreshing to the summer girl to know that she can buy very small love curls sticking to halrpins. These may be stuck Into the cofffure wherever they produce good ef- fects. Of these hairpins it may be said that they are warranted not to loosen, and the summer girl need not worry about losing them. ADMIRAL DEWEY'S MIX-UP IN A DOG FIGHT. It occurred at a famous California watering resort, and the dog that was attacked by the one Captain Dewey belonged to a very well known socfety matron. DW that Admiral Dewey's great battle has been fought and won, now that his valor, heroism and ability are recognized and ap- preciated, it seems scarcely fair Yhat a former battle, maybe one of no less brilliant daring, should sink into the mists of a shadowy past. Some few years ago Admiral Dewey, then captain, was in California spend- ing the summer at one of our fashion- able summer resorts. Staying at the same hotel was a brilliant ‘ety ma- tron, a lady who, before her marriage, THE MARLBOROUGH COIFFU.E. 00000000000 0O0O00000000000000000000000000000000000ANPO000 00000000 VEGRO CAVP-MELTINGD W4y DOWN IN DIXIE. o 00000000 00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000O0O JACKSONVILL Northern peopl strange Fla., May 9.— have little idea of the sometimes preached remote districts. The sermon here quoted were >d at the “passover” of without hands,” and were taken down verbatim. That the title of the church, remind- ing him of o0ld Puritan rtismal names, is appropriate, the tor sees at a glance. The place of worship is within the border of a wild orange grove, where the trees, below the frost line, are so thick as to be impervious to any but the hardest shower. The seats are of pine logs, and the pulpit has been fashioned of stumps and with considerable ingenuity. It is just such a temple as our forefathers wor- shiped in when the hatchet was as vet the only tool, and the primitive effect is greatly heightened by the simple col- ored congregation with their scant fin- ery, their barefooted children, the ox carts across the crooked path, and the mothers tending their babies outside doctrines s in the sanctuary, yet near enough to re-| ceive the full benefit of the sermons. For that matter one might be quite ou of sight and still hear every word delf ered in the stentorian tones of the col- ored country preacher. Their opening bymn is always the same: Right upon de mountain, Not made by hand, De Goepil speak en de chariot stop, Not made by hand. 1 know I got anudder bullding, 1 know I got anudder buflding, Not made by hand. Just let me tell you de nachul fack, Not made by hand, dwarf trees | | conceive by de Holy Ghos'. To be sure, there is no mountain, not even andhill in the vicinity, but the incongruity of the negro ckoned as one of its charms. state of the service the preacher - instructing his flock. : ou brud- ders en sisters what can’t read de Bi- ble—Trinity don’t mean de white peo- ple chu'ch de udder side de branch; hit mean de three Gods what dey uster have befo’ Moses carry de chillun of a Israel to de wilderne: ‘cordin’ to de prophet, E To please dem chil- lun, Aaron made one God out dey mamm gold yearrings; but Moses wouldn’t stand no sech foolishne: He grind up dat God, scattered de dust in de well water en made dem hard-head chillun drink it same like boneset tea. so dat de badne break out on in big biles. Nudder God fight a duel in heaven wid de third and got hisself killed.” “Wey dem two last Gods come from, Brudder Taylor?” asks the senior dea- con, who conceives it his duty to keep a strict watch on the preachers that I they expound no false doctrines. don’t reckleck hearin’ tell o’ um befo'". “Why, dem two en Christ was all Dey is dead, jest like I tell you. Didn’t Genesis write it down in dis very Bible unner my hand? We only got one God left; but if He can whip all de rest He is sholy wuth havin’ en wushippin’. He kin distroy mo’ sinners wid one touch of his fo’finger dan you kin kill antses when de whole colony is unner your foot. Dere was more Gods in dem times; de God of Abum, de God of Isaac, de God of ‘Jacob, de God of Dan’l-in-de-lion-den, en a heap mo’ dat PRETTY BATS FOR SUMMER WE@R PRETTY hat with a poke brim for q a girl of 4 or 5 is made of soft fancy braid of a dark straw color. A full shirring of pink India silk faces the inside of the brim. The outside trim- GIRLS' SUMMER HATS. ming 1s made of white mousseline de sofe crossed with lace insertions, interlaid with pink silk. This is arranged in a large fan-shaped bow on the front. Wide pink strings are attached at the back. For a somewhat older girl is a hat of light tobacco brown fancy straw. Double frills of geranium red fa.ule edge the top of the crown. Lying flat on the brim is a pleating of geranium red taffeta, and above this pleating, surrounding the crown, is a full ruche of red gauze edged with straw braid. A standing bow of taffeta 1s on the left side. A simpler hat for a girl of 9 or 10 is of yellow and brown mixed straw, trimmed with a ten-inch scarf of red taffeta that is draped around the crown and arranged 1rn :‘ large bow at the side toward the ront. um | [T ain’t got time dis mawnin’ to super- numerate. was mighty biggity Gods, allus tellin’” Abum, Isaac en Jacob what dey gwine do; but dey ain’t ekal hos’ ven t'gedder, but dey can't git no closer de Great White Throne dan de kitchen. How came Brudder Taylor know all whisp a doubting Thomasine: % & ) 5 g 2 = 8 = » 4 he did John de Baptiss. powerful saintly gen’leman, is Brudder Taylor,” swers her more | neighbor. sices are drowned by the sudden and, to strangers, the unex- | pected singing of four lines O. where did you leav G, where did you leay Left him at the jedg O, Lord, my Lord-Dan'l | One of the peculiarities of the South- | ern negro worship is the breaking into song whenever a point in the sermon | suggests it. As the repertory contains an'1? 17 Lord-T v Lord-D s | verses suited to all the more familiar | | Biblical subjects, they are never at a loss. The mention of Daniel was suffi- | cient to start them. Indeed, no one can | object to the verses, for they are brief |and pointed and their cadence both wild |and sweet. The preacher steps down and an- other—for one or even two could never sustain the severe strain—takes his | place with indescribable state. If airs |are anything, he might be Isaiah him- | self. Indeed, it is doubtful whether |any of the prophets were a hundredth as dictatorial as some colored preach- ers in the South. Outside the seats is the miscellaneous gathering inevitably attending forest | worship—the smaller children with | their mothers; scoffers and other riff- | raff; young men waiting to exchange a word with their best girls, the lat- ter making the duty of “helping mammy” a pretext for giving them an occasional opportunity. Here, side bv side with the most fervid religion in the world—a highly decorous world that speaks softly and moves with the least possible noise, but the very same world that is seething elsewhere—and in it the observer can catch up story after storv of real life, some of them as romantic as any in higher spheres of life. “Yander come Miss Kissie,” exclaims a gossip who is nursing her baby on one side of an enormous tree, to the girl's mother, who s tending her whole brood on the other. “She done shuck off Russia Korn for Mr. Ben Franklin. Ef she was my gal I'd make her stick to one beau.” “’'Taint every gal kin have two beaus,” is the retort. “I reckon Kissie know what she doin’.” Miss Kissie Wilson 1s & .all, straight, finely rounded yuung woman, possess- ust enough white blood to give a rich ronze shading to her skin and to fire the eye of a sculptor. Her costume is almost entirelv of home manufacture, there being too many younger ones in the family for her to have much pur- chased finery. But this is not in the least to her disadvantage. On the con- trary, a brilliantly blue homespun dress trimmed with cock’s feathers, a braided shuck hat piled with fresh Toses, negklace Enl hracelets of acorns® can't read no better dan my | He a | pious | part as exclusive, as consequential and | ] colored a pure golden shade and a very beau !ful palmetto fan make her a rare work of art. Russia Korn, vhom she ing with contempt, is ble in his odd mixture 1 rusty coat and 7 but his s did bright open counten: and ce sique : o | prevent him from appearir g quite rid- iculous. He is amply revenged a few minutes when Ben Franklin, a visitor scries a fashionably dressed youn in from his own town and hereafter devot e dat, Miss s the old gossip, telling Dem town niggahs don't do to same you? tie to.’ is quite equal to the oc- ca day?” A ~-'nute later they are joining in one of the hymns peculiar to the race: CHARACTERV IN WALKING. Experts say that handwriting never varies in its essence—that is, that its true characteristics are always pre- served, even vhen one attempts to imitate the writing of another. But still we know that forgeries suffi- ciently clever to bewilder handwriting experts have been perpetrated, and it is also certain that, granted a certain “knack” and peculiar talent, a most characteristic signature can be so imi- tated as to defy anything more than grave suspicion of the comm:ttal of a forgery. Walking, however, says Tit-Bits, comes under another category. No man can imitate another’s walk for | more than two or three steps without making it obvious to any but the densest observer that he is acting—or walking—a part; that he is thinking constantly of the length of his stride, of the way the foot should reach and leave the ground, of the speed and of | the swing of the body. So very char- acteristic is walking that even the most unobservant requires only to hear three or four footfalls in a passageway, ete., without seeing the walker, to be absolutely assured of his individuality, if, of course, the walker is familiar to the listener. And how does character show itself in walking? I should be inclined to say, “In every way.” For example, could one imagine a busy, alert criminal law- yer lolling along with a long, heavy, laborious stride, or could one imagine a lethargic, unambitious, routine life liv- ing farm laborer pass along a street with a springy, alert, active and nerv- ous tread? The cautious, suspiclous man could not possibly walk In the same manner as the hail fellow well met, open handed sportsman, neither could the walk of the dignified High Church clergyman resemble that of the bustling, all-there grocer bent on making himself a mil- lionaire. The cowardly cannot walk as do the fearless, the restless not as the phleg- matic. And for this reason it seems to me that the police have often some- thing stronger to go on when they find a prisoner’s bootmark tallles with the impress of the foot of the known crim- inal, for if placed under observation when at exercise he will demonstrate to those watching him the weight he puts on different parts of the foot where the ‘muress weould he greater. and so on. ‘ou ref nein’ to me, Mis' Brown? | T vailer gal is welcome to Ben Franklin now I'se done w. him. Rus- ia Korn, is vou forgot me 'n’ you | promised Deacon Smith to sing to- | American men, while | that the women, in order to malke their belonging to hailed from the Middle West—who led t?:e manners, customs, even the emo- tions of one and zll. She was acknow! edged queen and had, with a subtlety born of French extraction, established laws and rules which bound the other guests to a conventional line of pro- cedure from which neithc~ old nor Yyoung ever attempted to diverge. The scepter she wielded was one of money and family coupled with an undisputed talent for generalship; but above all she was gifted with an exceedingly sharp tongue. And people were afraid of this soclety matron. She cared not what she said, nor in what sort of language her views were communicated and her weapons were indeed formid- able. That she inspired fear she was well aware, and she took so much pride therein that many a reputation fell by the wayside to strengthen and gird the power of her sway. One bright, sunny day Captain Dewey arrived at the resort and registered. T.he_ society matron sniffed at the U. S. N. inscribed after his name and inti- mated that our navy was all for show; however, it was but an intimation, for the captain had only just arrived, she knew naught against him and had not decided whether to make or mar him. Moreover the men of our navy were adjuncts to cotillons, Friday nights, Fortnightlys and other social functions and were not to be lightly disposed of. That night Captain Dewey wandered into the cafe attached to the hotel in search of congenial spirits. While lean- ing upon the counter waiting for the filling of his order the captain entered into conversation with {0 or three guests of the hotel who were standing about. “Six lemon seltzers for room 23,” said a bellboy as he entered the bar. Anic the gallant captain, whose trained and lightning glance saw everything in a flash, opserved that this order was promptly filled while others, UMMER GIRL AND HER SUMMER AR Y THE LITERARY COIFFURE. his own among them, were put aside. A hero is not always a hero and Cap- ts;lin Dewey waxed exceeaing wroth at this. “First come. first served!” was the gist of his further remarks. But some- body carelessly said: “Oh, it's for room 23, you know!” Captain Dewey said no more, but room 23 was engraved on his heart in letters of blood and the seeds f a great revolt were planted in his breast that night. When his glass was handed to him he looked smilingly around with re- stored good nature. “Glad to see you on board!” he said, Jokingly employinz the naval toast. Just then a small yellow dog came up to him and, rubbing against his leg, looked up into his face with big, pa- thetic, intelligent eyes and the captain stooped down and patted him on the head. The barkeeper started to chase the canine intrider from the _.amaculace precincts of his bar, bu. the dog v shrunk closer to the captain, while gazing at him with his serious brown eyes, in which ail the beauty lacking in his small body seemed concentrat It appeared that the dog had wan- dered in, a Stranger among strangers, and he had no place and no master in the fashionable hotel—nor maybe in the whole world. 11 adopt you, my | THE DELLA FOX CURL. boy,” said Captain Dewey, at last, “and I'll christen you Toddy in commemora- tion of your arrival with a very delic- fous one.” And so Toddy had a master and the devotion he felt for him must have been born of the martial tie between them—Joe Toddy was a fighter. His big, pathetic brown eyes could change at the sight of a canine rival into sparkling orbs, emitting red flashes, and his tail would assume a saucy, bristling aspect calculated to exasper- ate the enemy to charge. Now, it so happened that in all this big hostelry there was but one other dog—dogs not being barred by the management—and he belonged to room 23, and the society matron; and he re- joiced in the name of “Whisky.” He was about thrice the size of Toddy, but not brave in proportion, and it was thought that Toddy inspired the canine baitle. wift rush and scamper was heard, followed by angry barkings, snarlings, whinings, yelpings and sul- len growling: The sounds were ominous; the guests on the veranda started to their feet. It was not more than a moment be- fore the society matron of room 23 was on the scene. Captain De same moment. The owners of the dogs were fol- lowed by every man of which this coun- try resort could boast—each and all glad of a break in the monotony of country life—and by several conscrva- tive ladies, would-be backers of the so- ciety matron. Whisky and Toddy had met; and the fur flew. “Separate them * and “Sick 'em! all sides. So energetic was the attack that it was almost impossible to distinguish one dog from the other, or ta deter- mine which was getting the better of the encounter. But Whisky was th- better dog, in regard to weight ana size, and at last it became evident that s too much for the intrepid Toddy. The captain determined to interfere ana advancing upon the struggling dogs he rlanted a well directed kick upon Whis- kv which sent him whimpering to the other end of the fleld. Then did the battle ery of deflance and revenge ring out from the very soul of the society matron, and she gave voice to her indignation, as she alone conld do. But to the surprise of the attendant throne, the captain did nat retreat un- der the fire of her words. Nay, he retorted. full as strong, and then and there the soclety matron met her match. The war of words raged fiercely: the piercing scream of the society matron was answered by the bursting of the captain’s angry eloquence lashing his opmonent into a fury of splutterings. The captain steered for the center of the enemy: he did not change his course. but met unwavering her diapa- con which only succeeded in makins him hotter and inspiring him to put up a sallant fight. Captain Dewey finished his run and then went off for rest and refreshment. ey appeared at the “Gee whiz!” “Oh, were heard from The cheers at his unprecedented achievement, though necessarily sub- dued. were heartfelt, for Canptain Pewev, had met and fought the society matron with her own weapons, and the victory he had won that day has earnedq a place in the annals of California his- ory. yR!(‘HA'RD HAMILTON POTTS. /000000000000 000000000000000000O00 EUGLISHWOMEN 48 VIEWED 8U 4 @qLIFORNIA GIRL. 000000000 SIDE from the dirty, dingy ap- pearance of London, the thing | that must strike the American | visitor most foreibly is the con- | trast in the appearance of Eng- | lish men and women. An Englishman | dresses with a simple elegance that is not to be equaled except by some it would seem lords and masters appear to better ad- vantage, clothe themselves in gowns that should have been consigned to the raghag a couple of generations ago. An infallible way of telling that an Englishwoman has on a new gown is from the air of conscious superiority with which she passes her less for- tunate sisters. London presumably follows the French fashions, but by the time they have been modified to suit the English idea of beauty they are hardly recog- nizable. The English are very slow at adopting a new fashion. In America the styles appear almost simultaneously with Paris, but it takes almost a year for a fashion to cross the channel. There are certain fashions of purely English origin that never go out. The tailor-made jacket kept its com- paratively small sleeve when all the rest of the world was wearing large ones, and the very straight, very nar- row and very short skirt is a thing that is to be seen at all times. That it is practical is very true, but when one considers that there is little choice be- o o o o o OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO tween English and Chicago women where feet are concerned one would | expect the fashions to be regulated ac- | cordingly. The advantage, however, lies | with the Chicago women, for, like all| Americans, they are well shod, and a well-fitting and presentable pair of boots of English make are not to be had for love or money. The styles in coiffure are also sup- posed to be Parislan, but as English women always wear their hair flat at the sides of the head the modifications in the style are very slight. The co- quettish little knob which the fair Parisians pose with such artistic effect at different angles on their heads gwella to unsightly proportions in Lon- on. English women as a rule, have beau- tiful heads of hair, but they like to give the impression of having even more, the result being that they often give their heads an unwieldy look. The French women and_their figures are laughed at in England, and be as- sured no compliment is meant if one is told one looks French. The ideal Eng- no curves, and anything approaching the pretty roundness of the. French and American figures is regarded as be- in~ “disgustingly stout.” The Englishwoman has but one pro- fession—marriage. It is instilled in her from childhood that the crowning point and object of her life is a “good mar- riage”; from a worldly point of view, of course. Her early aspirations are for a title, a little later on money will do, but in the end she is generally content hood is considered a disgrace. The education of the average Eng- lish eirl does not tend (o develop her A lish figure is thin, straight and angular, | to take what she can get, for spinster- | o o o o o o (] o [} o o o o o o o o Q00000000 00000000 .tually or to interest her in any- ’t}‘xfifx‘;‘gfix‘u pa?’(lcular. She does not see much of her parents until she is of mar- riageable age. They do not personally supervise her education, which, until the age of about 10, is entrusted to a Later on she is sent either governess. to a day or Dboarding school; {if to a day school, she usu- ally has a finishing year abroad. In the boarding schools the few girls who are ambitious to learn and study well are looked down on by the others, whose objects seem to be to have as much pocket money, as many dresses and to do as little work as possible. | They do not learn much and have little to interest them except that all-im- portant being—man. Most Englishmen who are not elder sons or have not independent means leave the country and settle in the col- | onies, and those left are much sought | for by. the women. Perhaps the fact | that there are 896,728 more women than | men in England will in some degree ex- | cuse the unbearable conceit and sel- | fishness of the men. It is on horseback that the English woman appears unquestionably to the greatest advantage, her surroundings | suiting her style admirably. She is a | fearless and accomplished rider, and shines particularly in the hunting field. The English as a race are hardy, but | it is especially noticeable in the women. Being strong, energetic and untiring, | they enter into all sports with great en- | joyment. The average English woman thinks | nothing of riding forty miles a day on a bicycle, and her walking expeditions still continue to be a source of aston- ishment to her Continental mt‘oi-.