The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 8, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MAY 8, 1898. 27 FHORRORS! DRESSMAKERS SAY GRINOLINE IS GOING JO BE JHE FASHION AGAIN. The Man Dressmaker Is Responsible for the Jrouble. ORROR or horrors! The crin- TL_JJ otine is coming back! Ratl, pro- \ test upon our rights as |l individuals free agents as I we may, we are powerless to down the tyrant Fashion, who has sent forth the decree that e must be adopted or has been per: itly circu- vo or three ye¢ every c the crinoline was t f r no one has been e edict. But growing up to skirts decorated f flounces, giving arance which is obnoxious crino- tter of little inter- have accepted them > old fashions restored modernized that when e to us they appear different from what we wonder we ever them or even imagined r : to be so terrible. the most casual of observers it is that women have a tendency just now to revert to the dreadful crinoline of period. The first sign of this re- .me the revival of the rows came a billowy dis- t. At first this was \ck. But now the woman that is the o sud_that 5 When the balloon has e final development will is something to be said crinoline. Addison—or ce pointed out the fact otection, in that it kept ce. But that is an ethical nce of beauty knows ate woman on a wheel Can any picture be us and grotesque opskirt? Yet ridiculc s the influence and the new It does not this fad for of gowns, which >ad among us late- W upon skirts and tallor-made re, in sheer desperation, the man has started in on a new cru- ed to make woman e has brought skirts of our dmothers. But e wore more these birdcages room to move around in a continual y-four hours the had no cable- d with their ha to ring e time hoop- >d with c; » sit down while C y woman For all that d wien one has his feet there are very few now what the sizes the shoe stick mean. shoe sticks in use in The stick used was originally and is still used in England. rest of Europe uses the French ev T who upon red ed English shoe stick the length of a bar- run three to the inch. 2 the stick, or size 1, , just 41 inches Why this distance BANGLES FOR TBE GUWKLES, TBE LATEST Hab. HERE is a new fad abroad in the way of betrothal gifts—new and novel, zes on the upright. way to s of the Orient and there find its prototype. The prope compact now is to give a bangle, but not just an ordi- ip up and down the arm—not the old-fashioned, common- tened with a pretty lock, the key to which is carried er bangle, just large enough to slip up and ith a little lock. latest, the very latest and newest fad. The bangle may be of just as the donor's pBcket-book will allow, and the little lock st be secured by a gold or silver key. n only be found in the East, where bracelets and ymon on the ankles as on the wrists. Every one who has delicate, dainty, golden circlets which clasped k Salammbo’s were chained so that her feet could o ) just so o further. bangle must be loose enough to allow the stocking to be taken off and the circlet. It must be tight enough to be kept in ut on without removing and many button the top button of a high shoe over the shoe top, > to keep it in place. It may prove an inconvenience with a low shoe, but what girl would not put with the slight discomfort of having her pretty bangle slip down so that it little, just to prove to another girl that she has a sweetheart and a of which h Ties the key? HERE IS THE LATEST: THE ANKLE BANGLE. The origin of this fad probably comes from. the far Hast axidofl—enu.l nations. Here Is the New Crinoline Girl and Some of Her Predecessors. was fixed upon does not appear to be known. For some cther reason which only can be guessed at the graduated part of the stick is again divided into b= = 1 ALIFORNIA, far away as she | seems to her sister States of the | East, is the center around which 1 the thoughts of many a naval officer revolves,and in San Fran- ' perhaps more than other city in America, there lives a per- sonal interest in “the chances of war"” that is heartfelt and intense. When the big guns of our ships are cisco, ing throb will echo in many an anxious heart inside the Golden Gate, when their angry heralds of destruction are speeding to the enemy, tender if in- tangible messages will be shot toward the West from:brave officers and men, for mind and might, though so actively engaged, will harbor remembrances of home and friends. Nowhere is our navy more closely | associated than in San Francisco; the | tie of marriage, the lover's knot, the bond of kinship and to the twining | tendrils of the club, all combine to | make the connection a close one be- | tween San Francisco and the navy. | On the Maine, to start with the ship | that has started all the others and | given them their battle cry: ‘“Remem- ! ber the Maine.” were three officers well | known here, two of whom married San | Francisco girls. Lieutenant Carl Jun- | gen married Miss Kate Woods, whose | exquisite voice has often betn heard lut socials and charitable entertain- ments, and Paymaster Ray married | the pretty Mrs. Sadie Walton, who was Miss Richards. Dr. Heneberger, the surgeon of the Maine, who so faithfully and indefati- |'gably worked for the injured after the disaster, has many friends here to ap- preciate how nobly he could fill his po- | sition. Dr. Heneberger is considered one of the handsomest men in the navy. Added to this his quiet, gentlemanly manner and a suggestion of pathos in his smile have endeared many to him and caused many a girlish heart to flutter. On the Oregon, whose uncertain path is surrounded with predictions, | are several officers in whom San Fran- | cisco feels a special interest and pride. Lieutenant Commander James K. Cogs- well, the executive officer, has many warm friends here. He is a brother-in- of Mrs. Hatch, who was Mrs. Hawes of t; ~ city. Through hisconnec- tion with the Hawes family Lieutenant Commander Cegswell is well and wide- 1y_known. Lieutenant Edward Eberle was mar- ried here several years ago and his wife —a pretty sparkling brunette who was Tazie Harrison of San Francisco— is living here with their little boy, who is named after his father and who is so patriotic that he tells every one, on the principle of “love me love my dog,” that his intelligent brown setter is “a true American.” With the predilection of the sailor for nicknames, Lieutenant Eberle has been dubbed “Pistol,” and the name probably originated from his quick, de- cisive way of going straight to the roint. Lieutenant Eberle conducted his courtship on this plan and there was no mistaking his gim. One night |Nn the wardroom it was noticed with s CALIFORNIA @l any | booming in distant waters an answer- two sets of numbers. These numbers begin at 1 and run up to 13, and then they begin again at 1 and run up to 13. The first numbers from 1 to 5 are known | some surprise that each officer had a champagne glass at his place. Specu- lation was rife as to the cause and no- body knew whose treat it was. But when the wine was poured out Lieu- tenant Eberle rose, with glass in hand, said: Well, fellows, she didn’t say no and I think you can guess her name.” Mrs. Eberle’'s older sister is the wife of Liectenant John J. Knapp, who is bringing the Topeka home from Eng- la Mrs. Knapp is a handsome woman, a blonde with a fresh, flower-like face | and she has a charm of manner that s instantly felt. Mr. Kaapp is a fa- vorite socially, as well as with his fel low officers. _ Another popular naval officer, who married into the Harrison family and thus became connected with a large Southern cligue here, embracing the | Thorntons, Thompsons and McPher- | sons, is Lieutenant James H. Glennon, who' will also be actively engaged, as | he Is on the Massachusetts, one of the vessels of Admiral Schley’s flying squadron, now at Hampton Roads. Lieutenant Glennon married Miss Susie Blair, a first cousin of Mrs. Knapp and Mrs. Eberle. Being an or- phan Miss Blair was brought up by Mrs. Harrison, who now pathetically remarks that, although each of her | girls is concerned about her husband, she is triply to be pitied, being equally disturbed about all three. Assistant Engineer Joseph M. Reeves, 0 is on the Oregon, has left a wifein San Francisco and a small daughter, too young to read all the speculations regarding the pride and boast of our navy. Mrs. Reeves, who is a pretty blonde, was Miss Eleanor Watkins, of San Francisco, granddaughter of Commo- dore Watkins and daughter of “Jim” Watkins, well known in Menlo Park and San Francisco. Another lieutenant on the Oregon, well known to the Pacific Coast, is reg- inald Nicholson, familiarly known as “Regy” by the club men of San Fran- cisco, with whom he is a favorite. “Regy” is always looked to for a good story and he seldom disappoints the ex- pectations of his friends. Althoueh a widower and popularly supposed ta be heart whole and fancy free, the lieuten- ant has a circle of acquaintances among the fair sex, for it is always safe to say that when a mah is liked by men he is also appreciated by the women. On the Marietta, accompanying the Oregon, on her long voyage, is Lieu- tenant Alexander McCrackin, who mar- ried Miss Belle McPherson of this city, and also Ensiz James J. Raby, whose marriage to Miss Janet Callahan in Oc- tober was a social event. Miss Minnie McPherson, a cousin of Mrs. MecCrackin, married Lieutenant Parker of the Monadnock. Miss Dora Miller, daughter of Sena- tor Miller, from this State, is married to Captain Richardson Clover, now in command of the Bancroft. Little Miss Dora Clover enjoys the proud distinction of having been the first baby to test the developing capa- bilities of the incubator. It worked in her case and she was one of the five children who - ant to the kindergarten at the White House, which was con- ducted for the benefit of the Cleveland children. The Clovers live in a beauti- ful house in Washington and entertain magnificently. The Kearsarge was christened by the | known club devotee, as infant's sizes. those from 6 to 10 as children’s, from 11 to 2 as misses’ sizes, from 2% to 6% as women'’s and from 7 to 13 as men's sizes. L 0 O 0K K00 T0E 00 O 00 08 0 08 308 000K 06 08 08 408 408 G 300 08 308 SO 00 0K 108 X0 408 SORCH 0K K06 306 306 308 108 100 306 300 06 06 08 00 00 0 3 =3 RLS WHO HAVE - o3 MARRIED NAVAL OFFICERS: Q):(Q!JDDQUfifigfififiC(Cii:iWfifififiQfifil}fi!&‘flflfififimfififlfifififlfiflfifififldbfl& wife of Lieutenant Commander Her- bert Winslow, whose father was the commander of the old Kearsarge. Mrs. Winslow was the daughter of the well known family of Lafayette Maynard. Lieutenant Commander Delehanty, executive officer of the Texas, married Miss Bertha Washington of San Fran- cisco, a true descendant of George Washington. Some other well-known San Fran- cisco girls, married to naval officers who will be more or less to the front, are Miss Thornton, who married court- ly, dignified Captain Watson; Miss Selby, now the wife of Captain Kemplff, Miss Minnie Webster, sister of our well Fred Webster, wife of Lieutenant Charles Gore; Miss McDougall, who was married about a year ago to jolly Lieutenant Miles Gorgas; Miss Huntsman, who married Lieutenant of Marines Robert Dutton, closely connected with San Francisco besides, as his parents live here; Miss Maude Morrow, daughter of Judge W. W. Morrow, who married Lieutenant Fechteler; Miss Mary Graham, daugh- ter of General Graham of the Presidio, who married Ensign Guy Burrage of the Concord, lately sailed with the Asiaticfleet to bombard the Philippines; Miss Carleton, niece of Mrs. B. F. Nor- ris, who married the attractive Captain Thompson; Miss Weena Martin, who married a son of Admiral Phelps, Lieu- tenant “Tom” Phelps, appointed naval attache to President Dole during his visit to Washington, and Miss Mary Eddy, who married Lieutenant-Com- mander Driggs. Mr. and Mrs. Driggs, with a small son and daughter, are liv- ing in Washington in a handsome new house which, to quote.Mrs. Driggs, was built “without a cent of mamma’s money, " Lieutenant - Commander Driggs, besides being a competent offi- cer, is a talented one as well; he is one of the inventors of the famous “Driggs- Schroeder” gun. Miss Jennie Cheeseman, a well-known and very pretty San Francisco girl, married Lieutenant Shoemaker at the time of the Philadelphia, and Mrs. Van Vliet, widow of General Van Vliet, married a brother officer of his—Lieu- tenant F. H. Conant. These two men were great friends, called each other respectively “Conie” and “Shoe,” but took their brides from their San Fran- cisco homes to Annapolis, and both are now to be ordered to the front. Admiral Gherardi marrfed in San Francisco, and no other city has taken a greater pride in the heroism of his son, who has saved two llves by twice jumping overboard to the rescue, re- gardless of his own grave peril. RICHARD HAMILTON POTTS. —————————— 01d newspapers form an fmportant item in domestic economy, and are useful for olishing window glassws, for cleaning anp chimneys, for testing and cleaning flat irons, and for a dozen other things; you will also need heaps of them when ou come to pack awnx'l the winter cloth- ng. The clothes moth, like other evil- doers, has an aversion §1 printer’s ink. An excellent moth-proof bag, second only to the expensive tar-paper, and costing pothing, may be made of two thicknesses of newspaper, with the edges folded as if for an inch-wide hem, and securely {ss!ed. B of the same kind are about he best thi nrf ‘{ou can use for keegln s o S Db, T, et and insect/ proof, and can al hung in the store-room until needed.—May ‘Woman's Home Co it | | | Hints for the Business WomanforSummer Weather Wear. S IT promises to be an unusually hot, dusty summer, with war and hard times, the small economies will be.great necessities. There are many new fabrics shown this year in cotton and linen which, made without lining or trimming, will be very light and' cool and not affected by the dust. The skirts should be cut gored with a straight width joined fo a blas one, and all the seams ‘‘tailor” stitched to wide tape on the under side to prevent stretch- ing when laundered. The botfoms should be faced with the same material instead of hemmed. In making up cotton or linen it should be soaked for ten minutes in warm strong salt and water, which will both shrink and ‘set the color and prevent the desire to tear one's hair when the skirt or shirt waist first comes home from the laundry. The sallor hat, which promises to be- come more popular than ever before, can be made less severe by using a facing of satin as nearly as possible the shade of the warm tints in the halr, or if preferred the same shade as the eyes. Use very heavy, glossy satin put on perfectly smooth. If the brim of the hat is double, as it is in most good sailors, rip the two portions apart and slip the satin be- tween. In bands velvet is more becoming than ribbon. By making a band carefully and poining it under the bow with one- halt-inch . of elastic it can be slipped off and on and different ones to match the tie or walst adjusted as easily as the hat itself. Ties are so casy to make it s a sur- prise that any one with a slender purse will pay 25 or up to 50 cents for one she could make in ten minutes for half the price. For lining use the double faced cotton flannel; it costs a shilling a yard and you will require a yard and one-eighth. Lining from an old tie is just as good. Use rib- bon, closely woven; stitch it up on the wrong side and turn it with a lead penclil, and then slip the lining inside, using a hairpin for a needle; press and finish the ends and you have a tie you can wash all summer. A neat way of making a stock to be worn without the starched collar during the warm weather is to baste footing on to the middle of a ribbon about a yard and a half long, so that it will form a ruching. Tie the ends in the usual four- in-hand knot or in a bow with flaring ends. To keep these I place and not have them wilt, take a very fine piece of hat wire, double it and twist the rough ends together so they will come under the center of the bow knot, leaving the ends pulled apart to hold the bow out at the sides. new veil, or, rather, one of very old style revived, is a yard and a half to two yards long, with a lace edge and deep bordered ends. Crossed at the back of the hat it is held in place by a fancy pin and the ends brought under the chin and tied in a bow, which must stand out at right angles to the ep it on the brim in fron w it into a small 1 sta ce without the out of pla As it is very expensive, it requires care to keep it in order. To clean it, let it soak a few minutes in a small quantity of gasoline. Change the gasoline till it is perfectly clear. Shake the vell out well and pin it on a pillow and let it remain for ten or twelve hours, as it must not be iromed. A quarter’ worth of gasoline bought any place but a t'}vrugslore will clean a veil half a dozen i s e HE old-fashioned bar pin is here with us again. We have had so ay stickpins—round, oval and fancy shaped—from which to make a_ selection for the last few years that the bar pin, so dear to, every woman's heart, was relegated to a back seat, so far as popularity went. This style of pin is much more con- venient than the more graceful and smaller brooch of fanciful design which succeeded it and has held its own for so long, but whether the revival of the bar pin presages the revival of the low col- lar and fancy laced trimmed dress neck is something which just at this stage cannot be positively stated. When the dresses were cut low and round in the neck or had collar bands of the dress material, and were disfigured with rows of closely set buttons, the bar pin was a necessity to keep the neck properly and neatly clos »d. Then when the fashion of coll aight, stiff linen collars—came in, with all the attendant scarfs, cravats, hows and ties, the -bar pin was no longer a necessity, but a su- perfluity, and its successor, the now fa- miliar stick pin, came in for its share of popularity. LiveN @onnars @VE PLEACE TO PTOCKS standby of the tailor-made girl so long that it has seemed to have obtained THE popular linen collar is threatened with extermination. It has been the the same footing in a woman's wardrobe that It held in a man’s. certainly natty and tidy looking, and gave the woman's costume which is considered just the thing these days. It was finish” to a But it had its “mannish drawbacks, its Inconveniences, and its discomforts, and woman's sense of vanity was the final straw which broke the camel's back of its popularity. Where that stiff white band had cut into her soft flesh appeared wrinkles and ridges. Instead of the curved roundness which formerly made her throat so beautiful there was a compression not unlike what would be found in one's finger from the wearing of too tight a ring. A woman who has worn linen collars for any length of time cannot wear a low-necked dress and present that beautiful swanlike neck about which the poets have sung for centuries. But a woman could not give up her shirt waists, her collars and, above all, her Ascots and four-in-hands just as she was learning to tie them, and so a new device has been adopted. It is simply the substitution of a white pique stock for the stiff, starched linen collar which has been discoloring and distorting woman's neck so long. THE NEWEST STOCKS.