The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 3, 1898, Page 27

w N AR eRT.LATE UBANAS TA S : and Len- from as has nce of branch changes are not no- are the most marked changes at 1 asked. ral discarding of arti- of the bair with curling- long in favor, but >0 monotonous and has nothing t it, wears out the hair and women’s heads look alike. To- return has been made to broad and rather loose, like those which ze reproduced on many of his heads. y T has even discovered a ans wh 1s never been known be- | of producing this loose and natural of waving in postiches without ng it au cordon. By this means we | ed in giving to the false front the al effect of wavy hair slightly Loisel considers that the present | of wearing the hair is ondoyant. air is puffed in front and brought back 8o as to form a visor over the fore- fiead. The bandeau is beginning to come , with a parting or rather separa- | of the hair in the center in front. nape of the neck is still entirely un- | coveéred. The chignon is placed on the top | the head rather forward in the form of | soft-‘coques or large curls. Combs are | miich in fashion, and all the hairdressers | €6 them to confine the back hair and | #£dérn it. For ev: w Ich s tc ning wear at the opera, dinners spjrees, headdresses are ornamented with jewelry, flowers and feathers, and especially with fancy algrettes of kinds. Here is a technical description of the “Sapho” headdress, which figures on | the left side of the bride’s costume in the | center of the page: (1) Parting at the side, separate the front hair from one ear & % 1 after that into three (2) wave the hair with the Ondula- teur Loisel; (3) after waving the back hair by the same means turn it up with the roots upright and construct the chig- non on the top of the head; (4) take the @enter lock from the front and place a pad behind it, turn up the hair over it, glving the effect shown in the engra ing, and treat the sides in the same man- 5) fix in the hair poppies or roses on ite to_the parting. iress: (1) Wave the hair all round the head; (2) part it down the middle; (3) having made a point d’appul in the hair, gather it together, ex- cept a part to make the bandeaux, into 2 chignon or cogues or points on the top of the head; (4) make the bandeaux rath- er wide and only the appearance of part- (5) on each side of the forehead fix 1 tufts of curls en paime; (§) place on side of the chignon a light wreath of orange blossoms. The last model by Loisel represents the back and front of a fancy dress hat for the theater, made of gauze, spangled with jet and strass, trimmed with small black feathers. The crown ‘is made so that the halr can pass through it. The firmof Cuverville makes a feature of headdressing for fancy dress balls or soirees. One of its most successful crea- tions is a headdress in the Louis XVI style, with the hair in very broad waves, turned quite up in front and at the sides, and forming three pads on each side of the head. Behind the ears han, long curls very tightly rolled. On the %ncad is a kind of beretta of white tulle spangled with silver, draped and caught up on the left side by a strass buckle. The hat is trimmed with five ostrich feathers and an aigrette. The headdress is made with marteaux poudres, one above another be- ind. Another headdress is in the English style of the eighteenth century. The hair is turned up over the forehead and at the sides, forming broad waves, which are continued right up to the top of the head. At the sides are long pendent ¢uris. A large hat of blue velvet edged with pearls is worn rather far back on the head, and is trimmed with four dwarf featbers and two tall ostrich feathers. Another design by the same hairdresser 1s for evening. It s composed of light rolls of hair, which end over the fore- head in_smail curls. On the top of the head, slightly on the .ight, is a large | curl,”in which is set a spray of yellow acacia mixed with roll is a jewel, whic! s two loops of rib- bon cut to a point. In the center is a tall ostrich feather, and a branch of aca- cia falls down over the waved hair be- hind. on the left side . e e At Diemert's, late Jeanne Halle, T have seen a very stylish teagown, the upper part of which is composed of a robe of white taffetas printed all over with large THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, APRIL 3, 189S. (S ~eo> BY Lois bou »f roses in garlands. The dress is Princess shape behind, and at the sides, and is made in one piece from top to bot- tom. The center of the back is of frilled mousseline de sole, encircled on each side | by the taffetas. The skirt is round, and made with a train, and opens slightly down the front over a panel of frilled mousseline de soie. The front of the upper part is in Louls | XV style, opening wide over the mous- seline de sofe, which is made of one piece | all down without a walst. It is cut rather low at the neck and the decollete trimmed with a hanging collar of mousseline de sole edged with a double ruche of tae same material. Down the front is a flounce of the same headed by a ruche, and on each side are also flounces forming cascades, which come down to the ground and turn round the sides and behind. On each siae of the front are scarfs of gui- pure starting from the shoulder and fall- ing in draped pleats below the walst. The corsage is fixed behind by a waist- band of black velvet, which stops be- neath the arms and has a round strass buckle at eac.. end. The sleeves are half length, coming just below the elbow, and are rather wide, draped and gathered, and are confined to the arm by a frilling of pink mousse.une de sofe. DE B FOR THE BUSINESS WOMAN. HE woman who earns her own clothes very liable to become careless about them as she is ured when she goes home, and the needle gets to be an unused Instrument. Yet it is a wonder how much can be accom- plished by an hour's sewing a day, and being an entire change of employment it is really a rest. If a work-basket is arranged with needles and scissors and everything handy half the task will disappear. A pretty basket can be arranged on'a bam- boo tripod. When buttons come off or facings are ragged it will prove invalu- able. For a “best” dresg that will be very in- expensive, a cheap summer silk, at from twenty-five to fifty cents, if well chosen, makes up very prettily and will last morel than a season. These cheap silks have little body and unless, well lined become | quickly limp. Interline tne entire skirt with fiber chamois, which will give it the appearance and the wear of heavy silk. A dressmaker will faint at the idea, but T know from experience that it is all right, and if you try it you will say so and be surprised at the effect. No haircloth is used with the fiber chamols, which is In- expensive and comes in both dark and is light shades. You can choose from three ’ Q5 sz distinct styles of skirts. The circular, very like the one used several years ago, s the most graceful and with the fiber chamois interuning keeps in shape, but without even when well lined is inclined to stretch in places and hang unevenly after a little wear. The second is the bell-shaped, fitting | tightly over the hips and below the knees | flaring into a deep flounce. Another is perfectly plain, gored, fitted carefully over the hips and not flaring noticeably at the bottom. This last is*the more preferable for a summer silk, and finished with two or three ruffles, bound with baby velvet ribbon, makes a very sreuy skirt. iue bodice has a high standing collar of vel- vet with tiny tucks stitched in a contrast- ing color of silk. The stock in them is caught at the sides of the front, which is faced with baby velvet ribbon. If you have an old lace collar it can be cut out and appliqued onto the waist in the style so much used. Sashes are used very much and give a grace to a soft dress which is very eiective. For office or store wear, however, any- thing which will become flimsy or has a “dressy” effect is out of place "In a large establishment where scores of young wo- men were employed, the man at the head told me how much be admired the shirt walists and how much neater and more becoming they were than the woolen dresses which caught the dust. They need not be cold either, if for a corset cover an extra long-sleeved tight- fitting undervest is worn to take the place of the warmer waist. Bands for the sallor hat to harmonize with the tle and belt are pretty and | little accessories give to a shirt| these waist as much if not more style than many other costumes in an appropriate place. Stocks are worn a great deal, and are very effective and economical, worn to cover entirely a light linen collar. A third of a yard of taffeta silk will make one. Make it about one and a half yards long and three to five inches in width. White taffeta ribbon at about 25 cents a yard will wash very well, and can be done In your room. Lay it out flat on a marble basin, if you have one, if not your ingenuity will find a substitute. Be careful not to crease or rub in the hands or the threads will pull and it will look “washed.” Rinse it carefully up and down, and while quite wet stick it flat onto a window or_mirror, and when dry trim the ends and you will be the onl one who will know it has been washet{ All firmly, closely woven ribbon can be washed in the same way. Stocks made straightways of silk_or sheer muslin clean the same way. Made of white pique they are pretty and can-also be dried without starch or ironing on a mirror or marble table. It is well that shoes are not expensive in San Franclsco; they wear out so very fast. The cobblestones and hills make thick-soled shoes a necessity for street wear. Calfskin with kid tops are very ; 7 satisfactory, and every good shoe store | keeps a boy to blacken ladies’ shoes with- | out charge to his patrons. This blacken- ing not only makes the shoe last much longer, but keeps it neat and trim. Heavy shoes are not comfortable or pretty in the house, and can be exchnnged at the store for neat low shoes—not slip- pers—which are much less expensive, and 80 save the heavy ones for street us | H. G. ORS00 SN MEN'S FASHIONS. _ | EW YORK, April 2—A tendency that grows with every year is to allow men more and more variety | in their choice of dress, especially | at this season. For man, as well as| woman, Easter is now recognized as be- | ginning a period when new and.gorgeous | hues may make their appearance. To be | sure he is and must always remain a | long way behind his sisters in this re- spect, but the young man who follows London or even New York in selecting his spring outfit will be permitted a range of colors that would put to shame Joseph's celebrated attire. To begin at the beginning, which is un- derwear. The kipd that the fastidious young man will wear this spring is dark in color, seal brown or blue, with a fine horizontal line of white or green or dull red. Its material will be governed by his means, and may be anything from fine cotton to silk. The individual who designs hosiery has let his fancy run free, and there is a be- wildering array of checks, stripes and dots in every possible combination. Some men _insist on clinging to plain and mod- est black, and thelr taste can never be called in question. Still there is no rea- son why a man should not indulge his artistic taste in tne selection of hose if he will do it in moderation. A good rule to follow is never to wear hosiery that will compel the gaze, if by chance it be- comes exposed to view. With a woman it may be different, but a man’'s lower extremities are seldom so pleasing to the eyve that he can afford to call attention to them. In shirts the greatest range of color is allowed. Last season London set the bold example of wide, contrasting stripes running across the bosom, and the fash- fonable shirtmakers are showing cloths of similar design this spring. ut the prison stripe has taken in this country only with the sporting fraternity, fad- dists, and men who order their shirts by the dozen. The nfodest man still prefers a lengthwise stripe of blue, red or helio- trope, in which plenty of variety of pat- terns can be found. In selecting a spring suit a man should be governed somewhat by cons..eration of the extent of his wardrobe. If it is HE serious young man with the little red notebook has been gather- ing statistics again, and this time he vishes to offer a leaf out of that all volume to the consideration of all riotic American women. His figures impressive and not difficult to com- hend, and he leads off with the asser- | n that in the last decade, ending De- cember 30, 1897, a round $50,000,000 has been | 4 out of the United States by the rriage of our daughters with citizens reign countries. Just the sum total » amount Congress was called upon 4 appropriate for the defense of our threatened seacoast. $20,000,000 has gone to England and ce from New York City within the | dve years. More In sorrow than in does he arrive at the conclusion 55 ‘of property and the exile of many 10st valuable inhabitants. :koning from. the first very notable itional marriage—that of Miss | »n of Baltimore with Jaromei naparte—this searcher of Cupid’s | Hives:-'has found that not less than| American-born women have been | 4 to link their fortunes with those | Jrélgn-born husbands, “acknowledg- ifleglance,” as his notebook formally “to oiher governments than that United States”; as by her mar-| ;.2 woman becomes legally a subject | { ‘whatever ruler her mate acknowledges | 50 hive fhese 68,000 women resigned thelr ribyigirt of Uncle Sam’s daughters, for | chiefly. | of course, when we go back so | Miss Patterson’s rather unhappy | explained the owner of the| “and foot up the dowers that mpenied the hands of these girls who chose 1o wed beyond the borders of thelr own land, the sum total of hard, bright yellow gold carried out of the States foots Up to a figure near $100,000,000. This is HEIRESSES MARRYING always ‘taking the very lowest estimate, not Including those dowers under $50,000, and naturally overlooking many alliances so quietly made that the most lynx-eyed newspapers failed to record them.” One interesting fact still remains evi- dent. Fifty years ago it was the rare American woman who selected a hus- band of another nationality than her own, and then she did so frankly for purely ambitious . motives. Before the Civil War, when a millianaire's daughter captured a count or prince, the whole country rang with the news, and senti- ment was entirely unacknowledged on either side. The agreement was so much money for a title and position at Euro- pean courts, and because American for- tunes were not so large nor so numerous as at present the international marriages were less frequent. The number of these alliances increases every year, the dots grow larger and larger, and yet I find an increasing per cent of love mutches. This last s a mitigating circumstance | in what every patriotic American {s bound to regard as an existing evil. To balance against the rather cold-blooded alliances made in the past five years between American women and a couple of Engiish dukes, & French count and several Brit- ish earls, who =actually knocked down their coronets to the highest bidders, we have Miss Endicott’s love match with Jo- seph Chamberlain, Miss Brown’s penniless beauty winning the heart of Lady Aber- deen’s -brother, and Lady Vernon Har- court’s conquest, by no golden enchant- ments. of England’s great political leader. Still, money remains the great link be- tween our women and the foreign men who, as time goes on, have steadily raised the prices of their empty titles, until the limit was reached at the $10,000,000 mark, triumphantly touched by a Frenchman, | by his wife and daughter, accepted the helr to nothing bigger than a worthless marquisate. That is the largest cash pay- ment my book vouches for, though there are fifteen names set opposite the $2,000,- 000 mark, one leading off with $5,000,000, while New Orleans alone, in dots of from $200,000 to $500,000, has contributed $1,500,- 000 to the big sum total I mentioned be- | fore. Now,. the fact of the matter is that a French, Itallan or German bachelor who has a title that is old and estimated highly at the court of his country has absolutely ‘placed his minimum price at $100,000. A shrewd New York lawyer found this out when his daughter’s hand was asked for by a French marquis whose name is respected among the remnant of French aristocracy. = The honest man of law, previously instructed Marquis kindly, and mentioned that to every one of his daughters he gave a check for $25,00 by way of a housekeep- er's nest egg. The marquis applauded this generosity, but announced that the engagement might be considered off unless thenestegg ‘was accompanied by three more of exact- ly the same size. There was a display of paternal wrath, and the well-shod pater- nal boot, but the marquis never flinched, and at the proper time both bride and dower were forthcoming, though the three remaining daughters went penniless to their untitled American husbands. Of all this impressive amount of money that has passed across the water England has recelved more than one-half the total and more women from New York State and city have made forelgn marriages than from any other part of the country. The Dbitterest pill, however, that this delver among figures has rolled up for American digestion is the assertion, based ABROAD. on personal investigation, that with rare exceptions those women who marry out of the States usually resign, and in too brief a time, all identity with and affec- tion for the land of thelr birth. It is only necessary to meet American wives of for- eign men to realize how closely the mar- riage tie binds them to the country of their adoption, how rapidly they assume the foreigner’s reverence for those in high places, the recognition of class and ac- cept the manners and customs that their fathers or brothers would resist to their last breath, But if England, as the notebook records, has got the lion’s share of our American millions France comes next on the list of beneficiaries, Germany third, and it is { pleasant to find that Spain has drawn few prizes indeed from among our rich and pretty girls. It is true enough that of all titled Europeans the Spaniard is least in- clined to make a mercenary or an alien marriage, while the English and French are the most aggressive in this particular. In Paris, indeed, there has recently been opened a matrimonial bureau, where a careful record is made of the move- ments of those rich American women, maids or widows, who are traveling on the Continent. At the bureau a careful estimate of the young lady's fortune, a history of her family, etc., can be secured and assistance received, with a yvlew.to securing Introductions to desirable indi- viduals. Rich Americans to the Parisian 'for- tune-hunter do not, however, simply im- ply women from the United States, but wealthy Mexicans, as well as South and Central Americans, and where a young man can prove that he is with every chance of success suing for a young lady’s hand enough money will be ad- vanced him for the purchase of flowers, books, bonbons and such gifts as the Parisian has come to find are requisite sacrifices at the altar of American beau- ty and weath. In case marriage should reward these purely business-like maneuvers anu in- vestments the bureau exacts a stately interest, plus the money invested In the scheme, and so implicit is the Parisian belfef that faint heart ne’er won fair lady, and American capital Is worth fighting for, that at the expense of the bureau as many as three or four men are sent over to New York, .oston and Chicago every season, allowed to put up at the best hotels, given money to spend, horses, to ride and clothes befitting their titles, on the chance of their winning a bride out of whose capacious purse a full compensation for the investment can be paid. Women who are fond of strong per- fumes should remember that they are de- cidedly injurious to the sense of smell. By their frequent use the secretory glands of the nose and throat are over- taxed and weakened. One day the per- son notices that the hearing is less acute than usual and the sense of smell seems defective. This 1s, of course, put down to a cold and but little is thought of it. After a time the entire head becomes af- fected, and there follow throat and lung complications which are likely to end in chronic, if not fatal, illness. Smellin salts are a prolific cause of deafness; al strong anhd pungent odors, particularly those which act on the secretory pro- “l:l'“' should be avoided as far as pos- sible. . - The Soudan expedition, while engaged in laying the new Nile railway, has seen some remarkable mirages. From a dis- tance the men .wd to be working into a beautiful , and on all side: beautifull; ships and cascades. When lool through flel the {llusion was heightened n limited and he i1s under the necessity of wearing the same suit several days in the week, he would do well to avoid cer- tain patterns which, though attractive in themselves, become rromlnent by too fre- quent wearing. It {s Inconvenient for a man If his friends and fellow-citizens can {always Identify him by his clothes. The prevalling shades for business suits are brown and gray, which are to be had in close checks, loose checks and plain mixtures. They come In both rough and smooth finish, but in the lighter cloths intended for summer wear smooth goods seem to be reasserting their supremacy. The sack suit should be made up with three but- tons, and only the two lower side pockets. The little change pocket has followed the upper breast pocket into oblivion. Coats are cut to medium length, not quite as abbreviated as last year. A novelty that some of the extremijsts have adopted .or sack and cutaway suits is a rough Scotch cloth known as heather, which feels as coarse as a bran bag. It is seen in loose checks of striking dimen- sions, for it is a London invention. They will probably last no more than a month or_two. Another new thing which was foreshad- owed last fall consists of indistinct stripes —perhaps a quarter of an inch wide. In this combination there should be no con- trast, and the nearer the two shades ap- proximate the better. . The blacks with very thin red or white lines, that were worn last fall, are dis- tinetly out of date, but the stripe effect can be had in plain black by means of a fine rib. It produces a neat effect when made up in French worsteds. But the rib should not be too pronounced. The cutaway, as a semi-dress garment, has had its day. It is now designed for morning wear, and is made. up in the same materials as sacks. The only ap- propriate coat for street dress wear is the frock, which is still made in soft vicunas and unfinished worsteds. The trousers to go with it should be of light color, with a wide and unobtrusive stripe. The very newest tie is a silk ascot with flowing ends. It is unlined, and to be effectively tied must be of fine material. It is tied like an ascot, except that in- stead of crossing the ends at the finish, one end is folded over and the other is brought over and spread across it so that only that one end suows. Then it is per- mitted to fall straight down and is neld in place by a pin—a small pearl is the approved thing. This or the ordinary as- cot is the only correct form for a frock coat. Ascots in_colors are worn with sack suits as well. The four-in-hand persists as it has for years, but the scarf with flowing ends, known as the imperial, has the call just now. It is tled in a close knot, and may be worn with the high turn’down coliar as well as with the ordi- nary stand-up kind. The other kind of tie that will be worn is the string, which has found popular favor becausa it re- veals the beauties of a handsome shirt to advantage. The high turndown collar should have straight edges or corners gently rounded. The edges of this and the plain standing collar should fit closely together in front. The new derby hat s made with fuller crown and a little more ample curl of brim than the style of a year ago. The proper shades are seal brown, or, of course, black. Every year about this time the little round-topped London derby makes its appearance on our streets, but sensible Americans, refuse to take kindly to it. For variation with the derby the Alpine is always appropriate in the spring and autumn, but the fastidi- ous man will not wear the gray with black band. Either a pearl, with pearl band, or a light brown is in better taste. The particular young man will exercise care in the selection of his shoes. The razor toe Is an exiled abomination, but the extremely blunt bulldog shape is little better. A medium rounded toe, with a cap of generous length, is the most satis- factory. The proper thing in_spring gloves is a reddish shade of kid. Edam cheese comes nearest to meeting it of any thing I know. Golf and bicycling have become such popular sports in America that they have come to require a distinctive dress. The proper outfit for the 1838 golfer is a black sack coat, breeches of pronounced plaid or check and plain brown stockings, with French plaid tops. The cap should be made to match the breeches or in har- mDnK with them. As goif attire is worn off the links as well as on in the country, a soft shirt of French muslin or percale with a stock tie will complete the cos- tume nicely. About the only new thing offered to bicyclists this season is In sweaters, which have developed into much more dressy garments than formerly. They are made in green or red or brown, with white stripes about the wrists and collar and lace up in front. THE BACHELOR. MEN’S FASHDNS FOR SPRING.