The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 27, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, Py NE th > considered by the woman de) her own labor is her laundry. This spring 1 underwear I have seen cotto: with vests very good for 10 cents, of the same for 25 cents. Th good for everyd wear and can v washed and require no ironing. me line you can get better ones of shaker flannel or nel requires no iron- aken out and bottom cut into Cashmere will 1l as Henrietta de into shirt Henrletta cloth with vel sh collar is not only very becomi but very inexpensive, costing about $2 QX (G N e\l EE‘EJ EUNE . pattern, leeves require lining, he help of a good paper | ly made. e to see white Only the yoke and o the waist, by It is & pleasu uching for n and a necessity ain. | “Footing,” a narrow wash blond.wo’ | two or three inch widths, mak | finish and costs about 10 cen | 4. It is e hed and wuen | apped round a bottie and pinned to ¢ can be d n your room. nother pr ruche is made of liberty silk. Buy it I yard and make it u yourself.” Otherwise it is very expensive. | For 50 cents you can get half a yard. Cut it into strips about three inches, | Cut both sides separately, then double it and stitch onto a tape to cover the raw | sed more than | n be u orty silk will not wash. by \ T Mmes. Mayer & Morhange's, 1h: ) & costume intended t | iera a ited to the on, or la | b tume, a charming dre: | The skirt is very “ front and at the sides, and made with fla rounded at the bottom and rather long. It | the fig | with large branched ps topazes and garnets, s of the skirt and ru i with a narrow flounce of plai: s ha sam as the flounc studded with jewe er from left to right and ope It is ning in The edges are trimmed with a tulle fl hich descends on the right 3 The nes . cut on th k light fullness at the shoulders. h a tulle ruche and form a point ghtly on the le ) .~ The FPunchinello hat, with ft side, whe ch complet round, fitting the head. The hat is tr front with a rosette of red velvet, W the bow are two black ¢ ing on the right and left ame establis v over white sh h. . being ¢ rounded at e front al h bac on thrown ve s of m The apron is trimmed roun apron is ornamented with a bouqu The upper part of t , and from it desce s to t nd the train at eac ween the apron nasturtium colored ros ing gradually to a point at the bottom. cut low and square, covered with a dou the uppermost of which is white satin. The neck is trimmed with t tulle, beneath it. edged with white round the shoulder: Both are trimmed with whit atin® ribbon. The flo and there are no sle | the left shoulder are two small heads of ostrich feathers, nas- turtium colored, set upright. The waistban hair are a nasturtium colored feather and Either of these with a crush velvet collar collar on shirt wai vear's turnover collar: by covering th a tie. Get t four inches wi ruchings can in plac Your last > used again to the_ top with striped ribbons ends. nan and fringe the Special from Paris to The Call. of red shaded moire tight fitting round -the body in being composed of a rounded apron of moire turning ail rou trimmed with a flounce of the same material covered The flounce incre ial resting on the apron. over red moire cut like a fich sid cross a tight fitting along the whole length, of red velvet to match the moire, d mall turned up ears on made of red straw, to match the dress, and the crown s fastened with fore and b costume, is a lete. They ch side. It is low and At Mn mmed In the center in h a strass buckle in the trich feathers, back to des. covered with two veils of s trimmed lozenge patterns 'y ward. The upper part white tulle ornamented with patterns in white 3t white tulle gathered in the center, and on each s, rather large at the top and diminish- The corsage s a blous trimmed with lozenge patterns in one over the other, the uppermost forming = head to that narrow and plain, and without any apparent fas ‘Another model made by the same firm is of an outdoor dress in violet and black lainage. The sklrt is plain, very tight round 1898. MARCH 27, No. 2, Rue Boudreau, o be worn on the Riv- ter on ing cos- at e -hin t pleats behind. It is made in two par terns and medallions ses in | 1L Wi 2If-way up behind. n black tulle, with a The corsage and the , Cross 1 the form of a heart ounce and ruche like e and ig lost beneath trimming is of maize 1 draped. The front K They are very long over the hands. The raped in wide rather wide. own a ball dress of as no fullness at the quite tight, but it is the bottom and has a nd sides are included made they ar nd the bottom with a 1et of nasturtium col- he skirt behind is of ends a train of yellow he edge of the dress: side 1s a garland of kinds, or lac the neck yoke spangl 1ble veiling of tulle, wo flounces of white e satin lozenges and unces are continued eves. On the top of sage is intended to nd is of low velvet, stening. In the a white aigrette. the body and trimmed in front with three rows of black braid qual distances running all round and falling over the pleats i The corsage is a blouse of reddish violet velvet, woven imitation of pleats. on flat in unequal branching patterns. is of the same colored velvét in very marked pieats, and the col- larette of white mousseline de soie. th branches at the shoulders and three rows of black braid nning straight down the arms from end to end. The wrists e trimmed with white mousseline de soie. A dinner dress by Lejeune-Sounard, of slate-colored satin, and intended for an elderly lady, caught my fancy. i :ry tight at-the hips and has three flat pleats behind, which 1 very much until they extend into a train. open down the front on ored satin, ornamented with a handsome embroidered design of flowers and foliage, mixed with gold thread. edged with white tulle lace embroidered with gold, which rests on the skirt. Both apron and lace widen from the top down- ward to the edge of the skirt. the apron on each side. The corsage is cut square in front and back and entirely en- closes the shoulders. skirt at the sides and behind, and opens f white satin and is covered with s signs as those around the bottom of the skirt. collete is trimmed around the edge with white tuile lace em- broidered with gold. hind, forming braces ending just below the decol- y e composed of bands of white tulle, embroldered with gold, edged with a plain tulle ruche, and form the sleeves. e. Jeanne Laurent’s, No. 47 Avenue de 1'Opera, I have seen a hat of blue Dunstable straw, the brim or which is wrin- kled and scalloped, turned up behind and a little cut away in front to make room for the frizzed hair. The hat is trimmed with a band of taffeta rib- bon, draped, and has a high rosette on the left side. a rosette of English point, surmounted by a fan-shaped bow of the same lace confined by a strass buckle. and the lace is a spray of lilac. In spite of all the efforts of the dressmakers to dethrone the blouse corsage made of material different from the skirt, it is so convenient and so practical that the style ¢ rywhere, and some of them are extremely mostly worn with skirts of the same shade of color. Some are of shot taffeta finely pleated and trimmed with Val- enclennes lace, or of mousseline de sofe, brocades of various One. of the newest mocdels, by P. Barroin, is of cream colored Bruges lace over silk of the same shade. nd cut round, in festoons, above which is a yoke of skyblue velvet coming to a point in the center in front. embroidered with beads of unequal size mixed with and spotted with single beads. a necklace of seven rows of pearl. elling the arm from one end to the other, and are slightly puffed at the inset, while at the wrist they are funnel-shaped and edged with a fluffy ruche of white mousseline de soie. be worn with a skirt of the same color, either plain or trimmed with lace. L'Art et la Mode draws attention to certain features of the present fashion, among which are the following: A new shape for evening mantles is long behind and short in front, and rounded like a priest's cope. Collars of jackets and other over garments are made of a different material from the body of the garment, either of vel- vet of some color or of embroidery. It is embroidered with broad black braid The neck trimming The sleeves are trimmed The skirt The skirt is 'h side over an apron of cream col- The apron is A strip of narrow lace runs down It has a small basgue applique on the wn the center over a embroidery in the The de- The corsage has narrow lapels, both be- The crown is low and In front is Between the ribbon ntinues to be pretty. But It is a blouse low at This The neck trimming is The sleeves are tight, mod- ‘This cor- four and a half yards at the bottom, which ‘means that the full skirts can be nicely made over leaving out the worn breadths. Trimming, too, will allow the worn bottoms to disappear. Haircloth is not much used and only wnder the bottom facing. The pew dresses are princess in effect, that i the trimming on the waist is arranged w'th the trimming of the skirt to give a_ cne-piece effect. Beware of the real prin:ess dress, how- ever becomini‘ for it must be perfect in material and in style or it Is the essence of the dowdy. Besides ft is not a serv- iceable style, as the waist gives out and cannot be replaced. 3 For bicycling there is a pretty cloth called sergine, In cofton, 33 inches wide, woven like a coveri cloth and cost- ing only 15 cents. This ‘cloth will make up very prettily in lightweight skirts to Pass it twice around the collar outside the turnover and tie in front with a four- in-hand knot, leaving the ends nearly to the belt. Another pretty tie can be made from the wash silks. Cut it on the bias, hem the sides and fasten and adjust the same as the striped tie. In white heavy silk these are very pretty. To wash them is an easy matter in your room by slicking the tie, still wet, flat on the window or mirror. wear with shirt walst, and is perfectly ideal for country wear where it is dusty. A short_skirt worn over bloomers does not impede the rider in the least. Line such a skirt with silk, baving a good heavy facing of canvas, and it will slip up in a strong wind out of the way, but S not blow about, and if cut narrow is perfectly comfortable and quite out of the way. Golf stockings are to be worn very much, but let us hope it is a_pass- ing” fancy, for except for very slender women they have a startling effect in the increase in apparent size of the lower ex- tremities. Bicycle suits should be made with coat, to be worn over a wash waist, on account of the perspiration which always destroys any non-wash material. “Tans” to match the shoes, belt and tie are very £opular in the East. A sin- gle quill in Scotch fashion gives it a Jaunty air and it sits on the head in a wind closely and firmly. Quills are to be worn as much as ever. A novel idea in getting the color you wish is to buy them plain and with oil paints color them yourself. Wings can be treated in the same manner and made very pretty indeed. It you have a last summer's straw hat which is dingy it can be restored by the white of an egg or shoe blacking. Glue on the inside of the crown will put it in shape. and by ironing out the trim- mings an old hat can be freshened up ‘wonderfully. H. G. LOST PURSES OF GARELESS ‘SHOPPERS OUND, flve thousand six hundred and eighty-si No no- tice of th appeared in the “Lost and Found” column; the facts were recorded only in the register of the superintendent of one of New York’s large department stores, and the record covered a period of four years. The actual money found in the entire pile amounted to a little less than for New York women do not carry much money with them in the shopping district. Those who do not have things “charged” pay in checks— every womdn with a bank account takes her check book with her in her rounds of the shop as religiously as she gathers samples on her journey— or has goods sent home C. O. D. g “Looking through these purses, solely for identification’s sake, you under- stand, is about all the fun I get out of this job,” gaid the superintendent. “It is astonishing how childish and unreason- able some women are about the matter. Every purse that is found in the shop is brought to my desk. If an employe finds it, I take her name, number and counter—the latter to save time—so we can reach her without going to the books of the main office. If a customer returns the purse we cut' off a few yards of red tape.” “Jt is odd,” continued the superln-} tendent, as he disposed of a fussy old | responsible and of course must beg her | to try to remember what was | woman with a “transfer check,” “that | men will carry things in their purses | that they would not have any one see | ‘for the world,’ and then manage to lose the whole thing so often. There was a party of schoolgirls in | here the other day. I expected to reap | a harvest of ‘at least four purses, but only one was lost. The poetry in that purse was not—well, it was hardly classic, and no doubt would have got- ten that young woman in serious trou- ble had it been found in her possession. She was so suspiciously profuse in her thanks to me that her dragon began to wonder if I had designs on her inno- cent charge. “There was quite an interesting case here recently. A purse was found and | brought to me by a little cash girl. It contained more than $100 and several rings. If there are more ‘han one card with the same name we naturally con clude that the name is that of the own. er of the purse, to whom we write, if in due time there are no inquiries made. “But there were no two visiting cards allke in this purse, and when a very swell looking woman asked if her purse had been returned I had to re- quest her to describe its contents. She | said she was too ill. to think. ‘I mld‘ her, as carefully as possible, that I was in it Therewas no doubt in my mind that she was an impostor. She told me to keep the property—this, I assure you I had every intention of doing—until the next card and one of her own were in the purse. I don’t know what I should have done at this period if one of our best customers had not come up and spoken to her. I very quickly gave a lifelike imitation of a man producing a purse. “The next day she came in and said she was too ill at the uume to ask for the person who returned her purse, bu would I be good enough to tell her then? At this moment the little girl passed my desk. She looked so tired and was so badly dressed and was such a child to be so closely confined that 1 gave her name and address to the lady, thereby breaking"a rule of the house, for here our motto is that virtue shall have no more substantial reward than itself. “The next day the child came to me and said: ‘“ ‘Say, Mr. Blank, you remember that purse I found? Well, the most beauti- ful, high tonedest lady came to our house and thanked me. She gave me $20 and ordered us a lot of groceries. Wish 'twould rain purses to-day." ““Here comes a woman now. Watch her. I know. even at this distance, that she has lost her purse—talk about the bicycle face, it is not a circum- stance to the lost purse eye. She’ll look me through before she begins to tell me her woes.” Sure enough, she did, not noticing his bland, “What can I do for you, madam?” “I've lost my purse,” she said, snap- pishly. ‘“Yes,” soothingly as possible. “Will you tell me what was in it?” “I have no time to waste. I want my pockethook,” she began. “Certainly, madam, you shall have it if you just mention—" “Then it has been found. Give it to me,” she demanded. “If you will kindly tell me—"" “No, I'll not tell any one whom it day. Finally she said’ her. dentist’s does not concern what's in my purse. That’s my business. I want my purse.” “Well,” said the woman, sulkily, ‘“for one thing, it had my daughter’s minia- ture set with pearls.” The pocket-book was promptly hand- ed to her. But, womanlike, she stood | there and itemized the contents. The | line grew, but fully three minutes did | she occupy the center of the stage. | “Of course the number of purses I | mentioned does not represent all that are lost. Map— are not returned to us | or are stolen directly by pickpockets, | though we have a large force of detec- | tives in the shop. No, we have never | had a man’s purse returned to us.” TITLES IN STRANGE PLAGES OT many years ago, says an English paper, the ninth Earl of Seafield, who had fallen on bad days in New Zealand, was glad 1o earn a few shillings by casual work on farms, and was proud of his reputation as a clever “ditcher and fencer.” The height of his ambition was reached when he was appointed bailiff of a provincial court. A son of one of our best-known peers, himself a lord by courtesy, is to-day working in a stable on the Rand, South Africa, and finds a new use for his knowledge of horses acquired as officer of one of our smartest cavalry regi- ments, One of our oldest baronets for many yvears kept the gate at a railway cross- ing, while his wife acted as “maid of all work” in their adjacent cottage. He was a man of singularly simple man- ners, and was pleased to be addressed by his Christian name by the local porters and platelayers. The Earl of Buchan experienced some | strange vicissitudes before he suc- | ceeded to his title and impoverished es- tates; and for some years made his liv- ing by acting as a jockey. The present Earl of Caithness was the son of an Aberdeen bank manager, who dispatched him to the States as a | boy to fight his own way to a livelihood. | For some years he shared the rough | life and fare of the cowboys, and had | comfortably established himself on a farm in Idaho, when his father’'s unex- pected accession to the earldom made} him Lord Berriedale and, within twelve months, Earl of Caithness. ! The vresent Baron Gardner is| prouder of his headship of the Indian | village of Munowota than of his Brit- | ish peerage, and ‘rears his dusky brood” in happy indifference to coro- nets and the House of Lords. He has so far detached himself from the land of his birth that he can scarcely speak its language. ; The Earl of Aberdeen, elder brother of the Governor-General of Canada, as is pretty generally known, lived and died as a common sailor ‘‘before the mast,” although he was lord of 63,000 acres and holder of eight titles; and the present Earl of Stamford earned a scanty living for some years as lay reader and schoolmaster before he suc- ceeded to his title as tenth earl. The eleventh Baron Fairfax is a doc- tor and small farmer in Prince George's County, Maryland. Sir. Harry Yelverto: Goring, the elev- enth holder of a baronetcy nearly 309 years old, served for many years “in the ranks” in the Twelfth Suffolk Regiment, leaving the army twelve years ago with the not very exalted! rank of sergeant. At the time of his accession to the baronetcy, on the death of a distant cousin, Sir Harry was keepin~ a tobacconist’'s shop in Tamworth, while hisnumerouschildren were earnine their living in local fac- tories and in the postoffice. LOVE LEJTERS WORTH FORJUNES OVE-LETTERS that cost £700 are not sent every day. A rich young miss recently received a billet-doux which was a triumph, | not only of the suitor's but of the jeweler’s skill. It was a dainty tablet of gold of wonderful thinness, a lace- like border of the precious metal in- parting an appearance of delicacy cal- culated to entrance the most fastidious. while a short but sweet message was written in diamonds cunningly set in a heart of frosted silver. This costly production was not sent through the post; it was delivered in a handsome casket by a messenger, who rode a snow-white palfrey. Nearly six months was occupied in completing the unique love-token, the diamond characters necessitating care in selection and setting. It cost the spendthrift suitor just £700. A musical lover sent no fewer than a dozen wonderful letters to his fiancee, each of which cost him £20. Words of endearment were set to sentimental strains, the parchment sheets being lavishly gilded and edged with valuable lace. The gilding and ornamentation were the work of a famous Japanese artist, who likewise exhibited his skill in decorating the box which conveyed them. . An extra t beau entranced the maiden of his heart by having a lovely collar of lace worked by peasant women in a design of hearts, each one bearing words of spider-web delicacy and lover-like constancy. As the lace- workers were unaccustomed to any but the orthodox patterns, a speclal design had to be framed for their guidance, and dozens of collars were rejected as unsatisfactory before the perfect article was produced. Irrespective of the designer’s fee, the lacemakers received without murmaur the £20 asked, and a luxurious wrapper of satin and gold cost £5 more. Then came a wooden box, of no common beauty, finally'a wrapping of thick packing-canvas, and the web-like love- letter was sent by registered post. Altogether this ephemeral affair ran away with nearly £50. * Procuring a diamond of excessive value, a titled gentleman wrote a heart-burning epistle to his ladylove, having a fac simile of the composition made in miniature and fixed on the under side of the gem. A setting -of gold and enamel was given to the stone, and a jeweled microscope was attached by a fairy chain to the priceless orna- ment. The love-words could be clearly read through their diamond covering by using the magnifying-glass. Crystal and microscope now form the center- piece of a marvelous hracelet given by the groom to his bride on the wedding morning. Loving a young lady whose father was pecuniarily distressed, a wealthy gentleman hit on a novel mode of for- warding a love-letter. He wrote out a check for £1000, added a margin of gummed stamp paper (on which he in- dited a loving epistle to his wife-to- be), and sent it to his heart’s darling.