The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 9, 1898, Page 25

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, HERE was Worth's which was t the st gorgeous material I have ever The front or “petti- coat” was of heavy white satin a wavy, une one costume at seen. a shade d satin, just > left e two. '€ 1 to the white of the petticoat by green ribbons run through rhi buckles at intervals. n there a pink satin embroidered in a pattern of sily the neck and sleeves of bodice . completely surrounded by pink roses half veiled in lace. One of the characteristics of a true g5 own is that it shall and these plain, , fits the est even- > long trans- low-cut with for ng apronwise up from the the back of full. The long sleeves lace, covered by narrow < chiffon laid on in lat- > stuff was made up over white silk, and fairly framed with ruffles edged with m lace. Of cou: r itable gray, S0 popular among the well-dressed of Paris. One lovely gray brocade was elaborately embroidered with cut steel, which is now an absolute rage for trimming. It looks rather dowagerish, though. In a serviceable party dress I saw a really blue silk under black tulle em- broidered with jet sequins and paillots, but the most surprising gown of all had a room entirely to itself and was al in state. It had long = , resembling the ‘“angel” sleeves our grandmothers used to wear, and such a long, long train! It was of t blue velvet, opening over a pet- t of white satin, and the sleeves, g¢, petticoat and train alike were embroidered in the most marvelous complete way with gold and ex- quisite imitation jewels, diamonds, seed pearls and emeralds. It must have cost a fortune, for the work was as regu ind perfect as any Jewe in i ing. Yet it was a gown which only showed its immense beauty upon cl imspection. For a casual glance a good passementerie would have 2d almost as well. It was for an F court dress, they told me! Well, it is just as gor- geous as any of the fancy: costumes at the: Duchess of Devonshire’s ball. Yet to my poor and simple mind, it seemed, like Lady Clara Vere de Vere, “not one to be desired.” THe wearer of all that magnificence would feel something as did the woman who tried to wear a million dollars’ worth of jewelry and found Berself weighted almost to extinction. I'saw a few handsome street dresses at Worth’s, but they were mainly grays and greens. A gray broadcloth, “strapped” with narrow bands of the cloth, and these carefully stitched, was among the best, and a green pe- pink brocade I saw at | s half covered as to skirt | ted flounces of pink chif- | ¢ lovely if heavy, »out with sable. was out in The Russian “blc strong ev In Paris the finest { bedie i but very slightly, while the jackets are given full swing. In England the blouse just blouses all over, especially However, it is in En the per skirt, | ynded, | | solitary plain skirt. There | that it had no fection of the gowns. In F put chiffon on a heavy clc distinctly explain you w street wear. It is in th that the Parisians excel Worth I don’t thin and str smaker will th that you nt solely for ght and airy At the Ma I beheld a was always a something or other either just belo the waist line or at the hem. Often there were trimmings covering nearly all of the skirt, and I naturally asked M. Jean if overskirts were coming in again. He shook his head and deniec the soft impeachment, saying the peo- ple would have none of them, and then he had shown me the very latest thing in skirts. It was made in two pieces, e | the upper part fitting extremely tight- 1y, the lower part in very much after the manner of a Spanish flounce, only “heading” and was gored to flare instead of ruffied. | cate, | shall look i L best. | Another style of hat is turned up ab- | forehead, the crown being encircled by | one a nodding mass of exceedingly well | ruptly at the back and tilted over thc“ | two feathers, which meet in front, and a third popular style has a very jammed and crushed sort of crown, and is turned completely up at one side. The Paris hats of this winter are more- over, gay with flowers, especially vio- lets and chrysanthemums, and I saw simulated mistletoe. 1 couldn't help | wondering what demoiselle would be daring enough to wear this tempting confection. | * s . | Something very taking and effective | in garniture is a combination of cot- ton crepe and gold and silk threads. Itshighlyappropriate name is Quenan- | na cloth. Its surface web of gilt and colored threads on the cream back- | ground sho out in good semi- When the figure is very slender and | it is desirable to have me fullnes right at the back, the “apron” part is | restri ront of the skirt. In | either case this represents the very the | | | | Besides, in Paris there are always ble; it all depends | a stranger or native. | newest wrinkles in Paris, and though I cannot find it in my heart to alto- gether like it, vet the skirt has its re- deeming features of grace. At Paquin’s, still in the Rue de la Paix, the difference from Worth's is very marked. Here there is talk and laughter, and dress-crowded rooms, and much bustling to and fro. On the whole, though, I don't think one sees as much, and the only clear impression that I carried away with m that to be fashionable one must wear gray combined with pink or with violet, and be sure to have some chinchilla fur for trimming. Last year it was grebe; this vear it is chinchilla which rules Paris, and very pretty it is, though perish- able. For a fur, and speaking after the manner of furs, it may really be said not to wear at all. Now, I don’t know the actual price of anything at these establishments. I never ask, be- cause 1 do not care about a too, too violent = jar to my impecuniousness. two or three pri whethersyou a: As you are foreign so you are bound to pay tribute to French genius. At the French theaters the pretty custom obtains of wearing toques with low-cut evening dress. As photograph- ers have found out. this is an ar- rangement that is most becoming. I like the French hats because they are modest as to s and artistic as to colors. In England Pinero remarked despondently long ago that “all good women wear big hats!” But in Paris almost every one's hat is a size worthy of honor because it is so self-re- specting. It does not flop and wave about and get askew because it is big and unwieldy and ill balanced. It sits trimly and neatly on the head and is always dainty. Just now ostrich feath- ers are unusually expensive, and ac- cordingly ostrich feathers are the fa- vorite trimming. A popular shape is turned up on both sides, something like a boat, and two feathers start right from the very front, encircle their re- spective sides and droop gracefully to- gether from the back. 1 saw Sarah Bernhardt wearing this this style of a hat the other day, and looking awfully well in it. Only it seems to require a tall person with deli- P oriental designs and suggests this as a capital fabric for theater waists and tea gow There is no secret in telling that it | Is for a trifle over half a dollar a rd, and combines delightfully with elvets of all shades of collars and gir- | dles. The making of the new velvet | collar, however, calls for a change of | | are made simply of lawn. arrangement. The prettiest hook around the throat to the left of the chin are held very high by whal bones inserted on the inside, and where the conjunction is made a sw lowtail, three-cornered or arrow-h aped point of velvet must jut conspicuously. Some ver s out ish costumes of ladies’ cloth or French broadcloth, designed | for slend »ung women, are made of | two shades of the cloth, the fronts of | the waist arranged in straps, com- pletely covered with rows of braid or | fine silk cord appliques. The arrange- | ment of decorated tabs and straps of | the dress material is greatly varied | this season and in constant use. Some of them simulate a girdle, a Breton corsage, with lines running horizontal- ly across the waist front, a bolero jacket, a plaited waist, etc. Again, the bands go round the figure from under the arms, and over the arms from front to back are laid flat, rather | broad epaulets, finished with the | straps. The skirt is of one shade, with bands of the other covering the seams | to the knees. The small mutton-leg sleeves are very closely fitted, and show the strap trimming from waist to elbow. Sage gray, brown, and dark green cloth, or repped-wool costumes are made with blouse vests of pale al- mond-colored cloth, overlaid with tiny straps of the cloth, edged with fine gold cord, with narrow panels of the light cloth showing at each side of the | parted skirt. These panels are crossed all the way down with straps of the gold-corded cloth, set on in clusters, about four inches of the plain cloth showing between each two clusters. Incredible as it may seem in this day of silk, satin and beribboned under- wear, the most expensive underclothes It is linen jawn of the finest quality, to be sure, made exquisitely by hand and decorat- ed with drawn work that one would think could only have been done under a magnifying glass. Of course real lace is another feature of linen wear, and any one who is the happy posses- sor of a few articles trimmed with real lace can appreciate their value. Parisian women who have elegant taste as well as ample purses cry cut in horror at the suggestion that Eng- lish women actually use woven wool-J en underwear next to the skin. To the Parisian silk alone is possible, Wool | pers | a reddish purple tinge. 1 an abomination, fit only ] for laboring men who have rough out- door work to do. American women, unbi d by foollsh prejudice, suit the material worn for warmth to their own ynal want Neither wool nor silk nor even cotton is scorned, but the most favored w n underwear is made of interwoven silk and wool, and for those who need heavier garments wool and cotton. The mixtures are more durable than pure wool, because they do not shrink in the wash all wool is almost cer- tain to do, despite the most stringent precautions. But aside from the question of warmth, the linen lawn articles worn over the woven wear this winter are ly fascinating. ns made of a uperb quality of linen are cut to trail three to four inches on the ground and G fasten down the entire front. Fichu- ped collars—those fussy soul-fret- ting things so pretty in the looking glass and so tormentinsly calculated to fairly strangle the sleeping wearer who may be the least restless—are again in fashion. The fichu is inane- decorated with good Valenciennes ace, cut in puckered strips to outline clusters of tiny hand-made tucks. Va- lenciennes lace insertion is laid on th a lavish hand, and the ends of the big linen bows that tie so becomingly under the chin are also lace beruffied. Again the front of the nightgownshows a series of tucks and insertions usual- ly laid in downward points. The eleeves re broken frem armhole to eibow with encircling bands of tucks and inser- | B At th- elbew they are trimmed with a wide lace frill, Despite the Parisian call for flowers, America has been rather slow in re- sponding. They are coming to the front now, however, as cockades in velvet toques. The chief turn is toward vel- vet, those marvelcus flowers that peo- plé never seem to tire of. This time the whole toque is violet in color, with Never were so many wings, quills, tails and breasts worn as there are to-day. Pheasant is here to stay. and wholesale miliinery stores predict a revival next fall of this catchy idea. This is a hint of which it would be well to take advantage. Many new designs in woclen mohair and silk dress goods have made their appearance. The majority consist of undulating lines produced by jacguard weaving. WEile those, however, at the beginning only showed continuous lines they have now been developed into an endless variety of designs, some cover- ing the ground entirely, while others show more ground covered with small spots in the color of the filling. The bayadere fashion has evidently not reached its full development yet, and is one of the features which will be taken up during the coming season. Last season we had our best night- gowns accordicn kilted, but this was an inconvenient process, for it had to be repeated every time the nightgown was cleaned or washed. Yet one more sim- ple method of making an attractive nightgown is to cut it a little open at the neck and to supply it with a large sailor collar or tucks and lace, with lace at the edge of the collar, to be al- iowed to wander down the front, whick should be liberally tucked. The back of such a nightgown might well be set into three box pleats, forming a yoke, and slightly gored at the skirt. shahrshehrefrohreleshrshrshrshreprofanirahrshrehesrafratastishshrsesreprafrehrshrehrsfrsirefasiashrshrshrafrshr s edosfrsr shrefrsfrairsiasiasirslasiostesfrnfrnle Sure to Destroy the Bottle. There are fifty inventions on the mar- ket under the name of non-refillable bottles. The design is to protect pro- prietary articles like sauces, or famous liquors, by making it unfeasible to refill the bottles and thus main tha INDAY, JANUARY 9, 1898. benefit of the labels. this by blowing a coin in the body of | the glass bottle, and he thinks that | RS N SN SO An ingenious | some one to break the bottle as soon as | | Philadelphian proposes to accomplish | it has been emptied. ———— It is a well known fact that the milk- 25 | better pay than those who cannot sing. The reason is that a tuneful maid who | sings at her work coaxes a fourth more | milk from a cow than a songless milker this will be tempting enough to induce | maids in Switzerland who can sing get | can extract. NEW TO-DAY. THE GLIMAX OF REDUCTION As the result of the SWEEPING AND INCISIVE REDUCTIONS with which our Midwinter Clearance Sale opens the week EVERY DEPART- MENT IS CROWDED WITH BARGAINS, a few samples of which we append to impress upon all discerning buyers the fact that this is to them THE GREATEST oney-Saving Opportunity of the Century | MACKINTOSHES. — JMISSES’ MACKINTOSHES in navy blue, 2 cape: 3 00, will be offered a .$200 LADIES’ MACKINTOSHES in navy and black, double texture, 2 capes, velvet collar, will be offered at ........ -$5 00 LADIES' MACKINTOSHES in navy and black (1 and 2 cap double texture, velvet col will be offered at.. 3 pA . $6. UMBRELLAS. $1.00—LADIES; GLORTA SILK 1M LW BRELLAS, with natural han- dles, paragon will_be offered at. 100 LADIES’ GLORTA SILK UM- BRELLAS,with horn and cel- luloid handles, paragon frames, will be offered at .. .81 50 5g—LADIES' SILK UMBRELLAS, $3.50 Viith pearl and ivory handie: paragon frames, will be offer- frame: 150~ LADIES’ GLOVES. 1 53 dozen LADIES' $-BUTTON LENGTH _MOUSQUETAIRE SUEDE GLOVES in dark and medium shades of tan, extra good value for §1 50, 1 be on sale at. a pair ”c—-lm dozen LADIES' 4-BUTTON DRESSED (real kid) GLOVES in brown, tan, slate, mode and black, former price $1 25, will be on special sale at..%c a pair Note—All of these gloves are guar- anteed.) BLACK SILK LACES| 7_ pieces BLACK CHANTILLY LACES, assorted pultér;fl. in widths | to 9 in at s nch, on sal 212, 15 widths from ale at.. and 25c 2 to 9 4,5, 614, a yard made edges, inches, on special 8 1-3, 10, 121 Veiling and Handkerchiefs. —200 pieces 18-INCH BLACK DOTTED VEILING, assorted new meshes to select from, on sale at......25, 35 and 50c yard 3000 LAD: EMBROIDER- ED HANDKERCHIEFS, a lit- tle soiled after holiday trade, regular price 15c, on _special sale a <esee..10c each MEN’S FURNISHINGS. §¢—130 dozen MEN'S AND BOYS' FANCY BORDERED HEM- STITCHED HANDKBR- CHIEFS, large size and fast colors, extra value for $1 20 per dozen, will be closed out at.... .5 each ~75_dozen MEN'S AND BOYS' ALL-SILK SCARFS in tecks and four-in-hand shapes, satin lined, extra value for 2 be closed out at........ 15c each [2lc—2 cases MEN'S CASHMERE 20" SOCKS, full finished with dou- ble heels and toes and in sa tary and camel's hair colors: regular price %ec, will be closed out at ...12%c pair 54 cases MEN'S HEAVY WOOL UNDERSHIRTS and DRAW- ERS in camel's hair and nat- ural colors, warranted shrunk, extra value for closed out at..... I 150~ HOSIERY DEPT. ]0c—1%0, dozen TLADIES' EXTRA HEAVY FAST BLACK COT- TON HOSE, regular price §2 25 a dozen, will be on sale at..l0c —9 dozen LADIES' FAST BLACK IMPORTED COTTON HOSE, in plain and Richelieu ribbed, good value for $4 00 per dozen, will be on sale at........ 2c a pair 25¢—1% dozen CHILDREN'S TM- " PORTED FAST BLACK COT- TON HOSE, 1-1 ribbed, extra heavy heels’ and soles, in all sizes, regular price $100 per dozen, will be sold at 25c a pair BOYS' UNDERWEAR. 2§¢—50 dozen BOYS' GRAY MER- CINO VESTS, sizes 24 to 3, good value for $4 00 per dozen, will be on sale at......20c each Zsc—fl)‘) dozen LADIES' EXTRA HEAVY MACO COTTON ELEECE -LINED VESTS, ray and Egyptian; also rawers to match, in all sizes; value for $1 00 per dozen, will be sold for. 25¢c each CORSET DEPARTMENT. A large assortment of CORSETS to suit all shapes. The famous P. D., V. B., R. & G., Thompson's Glove Fitting, etc., at all prices. fl"—?i dozen CELEBRATED “W. o B.” CORSETS, made of sateen and coutil, extra long, medium and short waists, embroidered in silk and lace trimmed, drab and black, good value for $1 50 50 dozen “W. B.” LATEST FRENCH_MODELS, suitable for any figure, made of im- ported sateen, silk embroider- ed and lace trimmed, good value for $2 00 Murphy Butlding, Market and Jones Streets. Aereta Murphy Bullding, Market and Jomes Steeets. T T OO R O S S O A A A o e Murphy Bullding, Market and Jones Stregts. e sforfusfusfoiiesiosio s e S s ootk s o sfo s shossfucfuiis o couts oo o oot oo oo ook