The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 10, 1897, Page 25

' 4 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 10 25 FASHION'S LATEST NOVELTIES FOR MY LADY'S BOUDOIR To that dainty, downy abode of beauty, the boudoir of the fashionable San Fran- ciscoenne, has come—what do you sup- ose? A snake. And a rattler at that. Not alive—oh,dear no! But safelydone into a belt that encircles my lady’s waist, be it svelte or otherwise shaped; for the good rattlesnakes, like the good Indians, are happily dead ones. After all it is but natural that woman should be responsible for his snakeship's riss in the world., A snake and a woman played notably important roles some centuries since in the Garden of Eden. It was the reptile’s good luck that Eve h_nd not her modern sister’s craze for novelties in the way of apparel. Had she been as frivolous in matters of dress as are we, her Californian descendants, in alklikelihood she would have coaxed Alam to slay the serpent, and ever thereafter would have worn the scaly skin of him around her waist. Over in Oakland lately a specimen of the ventured into the drawing- room of a house where lived a voung lady. He was annihilated for his pains, but who - that the tragedy was accidental? | aware of his skin vaiue and per- haps tired of life, he may have offered elf up a suicidal sacrifice to the ing fad. Of course the articulated horny cells | attached to a rattlesnake’s tail, the very sound of which will raise bair on a bald head, are not utilized in the making ofa beit. That would be carrying realism a bit too far. Nor does the fair wearer aspire to his personal capture, either dead or alive. Sne prefers to get him comfort- ably by proxy. thank youn. Then she must go to a worker in leather before she can wear the strip of stiff, shiny, crackling stuff that once harbored as deadly aliv- ing thing as ever carried venom to the veins of a victim. I know a woman who has a faney for norned toads. Fancy, did I say? She ioves them; raves in riotous admiration of the baker's dozen that sleep, boxed in sand, in her boudoir, and expects me to enthuse over them, too, whenever I wander into her prettily appointed | toaderv. Yet she impressively assures | me that she wouldn’t wear a snakeskin belt for $10 a day. Bless her little toad- loving heart! I would wear two of them | for $300 a month. | The utilitarian possibilities of the Cro- talus now being realized have developed a | new industry that may be shortlived, but that benefits while it lasts, and if money can be made with rattlesnake help I say that the horrid monster has not lived in vain. ‘The country seller places whatever | valuation he chooses upon his prey. A | majority of the defunct rattlers that come | to town, however, are souvenirs of the | summer’s outing, or a gift from some one who wouid fain perpetuate his victory by adorning a woman’s waist. People who | chance to number a cowboy or two on | their acquaintance list are just now culti- vating the connection assiduously. Cow bovs have such exceilent opportunities for | snake scrimmages. One of our society girlsat the springs paid a country lad $10 the other day for a fine specimen found crawling near her hammock. He put the half-eagle to senti- mental use by going straightway to towu and investing it in a ring for his sweet- heart. While some skinsare more mottled than others, and there 1s a noticeable difference in the shading, the markings are always diamond-shaped. the squares diminishing | until they terminate tinily in tbe tail | Siate color predominates, with dashes of | yellow and iridescent bits, but the scales : , and friction means ruin. The unused portions are converted izto purses and cardcases. Two Mexicans in this city are kept busy preparing the skins by a secret process. The skins are then lined with tan leather, turned toward the outside of the belt and machine-stitched down an eighth of an inch. The favorite fastening is a single or double cinch of leather, the strap being drawn through rings exactly as a horse's saddle is cinched. There's a wild Western barbarity about these belts that particularly appeals to Eastern women. A Gotham heiress, who came hither a-pleasaring this summer, has had a superb clasp made to order by a leading jeweler, for what she terms a ‘snake beauty” from Colusa County. Her San Francisco hostess has had a similar clasp made, her belt having once crept over the alkali in San Joaquin County. These clasps, which I examined this week, cost $100 apiece, The desien is a coiled serpent of richly tinted oxidized gold, set with jewels. The head of one glitters with diamonds, the basilisk eyes are rubies, and in the tail are imbedded a dozen olivines representing rattles. These olivines, by the by, are beautiful green gems of recent popularity, much lighter in color than the emerald. Clasps may be had irom $10 upward. The largest skin yet handled at the saddler’s came from Yuba County, meas- uring nine feet in length and fourteen inches in width. A word of warning, my dears: To the rodent palate there is no delicacy like unto a snakeskin. Hang your belt where it will not be likely to serve as a midnight feast for marauding mice. In that case I fancy you would be about as badly fright. ened as if his snakeship were to come to life and rudely rouse you from your dreams. genus Crotalu hin o el . To glance at the newest and most elab- orate designsin jswelry one might reason- ably suppose that their makers were simultaneously sufferinz from delirium tremens, for the trail of the serpeni is over them all. Rings writhe fantastically and brooches coil upon their Telvet cu hions, while chateiaines show the sinister eyes and pointed heads of reptiles galore, studded with precious stones. Another month and the jewelers will ravish our eyes with magnificent things imported for the holiday harvest. Mean- while a number of them are making a charming display, although there is a Iull in the production of novelties. Some- thing distinctly new and unique, how- ever, is to be seen at a local jeweler's—the four- leafed clover, set between two slightly rounded crystals and banded with gold. The clover is the real and rare thing which all of us at some time or another have hunted and despaired ot ever finding, and it is put to pretty use as a watch-charm. and now so prominent in fickle public fa- vor, is largély use! in the embellishment of clasps and chatelaine purses, set in the center and contrasting effectively with the shading that is peculiar to oxidized goid. Amethysis as ring stones have had thelr day. Their color does not harmonize with other stones now in feminine favor for hand adornmient, but thev serve with handsome effect elsewhere. Women of tawny com- plexion should beware of placing them near the skin; they are meant for the blonde and are not becoming to tie bru- nette. Apropos of complexions, I think they play a game of their own with woman’s destiny. Of paramount importance is a clear, healthy skin. Thetwo prime neces- sities for acquiring this adjunct to beauty are obtainable by every woeman in the lund, unless indeed she happens to be struggling toward the Klondike with baggage lost in the Arctic shuffle, pocke:- less bloomers and an iceberg for a bed. These essentials 10 skin periection are: Soap. Sleep. Then see to it that you bave an abund- | ance of each, and don’t undo the miracle that they have wrought with vour cuticle by indulging your appetite for sweets in either edible or drinkable form. Remem- ber that wine is a mocker of good looks, and that strong drink is a raging foe to the texture and firmness of your precious epidermis, This advise is not new, butit is the kind of gospel that you and I snd all the rest of the petticoated half of humanity should have preached to us until we practice it— the gospel of cleanliness and rest. One of the girls in society here whom I delight in feasting mine eyes npon hasa dream of a complexion—all lilies and roses of satiny smoothness. And why not? She is tucked within her neglige every afternoon and sleeps between couch-covers for a good hour, and her best friend couldn’'t bribe her maid to awaken her durinz those sixty precious minutes, which take six vears from her age with magic sureness, for at noon she looks her twenty-four summers, at night she has recorded but eizhteen of them, e “Shirt waists,” gravely declareth a fashion prophet from the Gotham perch of authority, “‘hold their own.”” To be sure, to be sure—when a masculine arm isn’t relieving them of thai auty. The shirt waist 1s a thing of utility; it may be wrought into a tning of beauty; it is a joy forever. To be emancipated from the stufty upholstery of tightly clinging bodices into the freedom of this sensible, restful garment is indeed joy unspeakable to the weary wearer, who b'esses its ex- istence when she exchanges it for the whaleboned article in which she has been stiffly sausaged for the street. While silken and other materials are replacing washable goods, the thinner waists of the past sea- son are not vet off duty for the year. San Francisco has a way of reserving a few hot days for October distribution—left-overs of the summer, as it were—and one must be prepared for such vagaries. Itisa mis- take, though, to have one's shirt waists starched until they are less piiable than a bar of railroad iron. Freshness does not depend upon the quantity of staich used, but upon ths care and frequency with which the material is laundered. I nail with approval the appearance of corduroy amid the dry goods aspirants to shirt waist favor. Corduroy is becom- 1ng to the complexion, softening its color or heightening it according to the shade chosen, while for economy it has no equal. Cloth and wool plaids, velveteens and silks are to be chiefly worn, the Dop- ular trimmings being tucks of the same, lengthwise, diagonal or bias, and fine frillings; while for decorative purposes | velvet ribbons will be largely used, also soutache and other braids, small metal buttons and fancy gimps. While the col- ors are countless, I predict that plaids, particularly in silk, will prevail. They are effective with plain wool skirts and extremely becoming to slender figures, while those of too generous girth have a choice of plain browns, reds, navy blues, greens and blacks. Satin waists are modish, and should have studs instead of butitens on the cuffs and fronts. Linen collars will be worn by those who prefer them, but the removable stock 1s likely 10 be adopted almost entirely, it being less trying to one’s style. She mus: be very sure of her facial outlines who does affect a linen collar. Blocks and checks, modified forms of the plaid desiens, also stripes, are correct for waist wear. A yoke and pleated back are the invariable rule. Plaids, however, are to run riot over dry-goods counters to the shoulders of womankind this winter and no one must be without some sort of plaid, unless it be her fate to be fat. The stout woman must bant vigorously if she would gown herself in plaid. She will be sorely tempted by the infinite varieties suitable for house and sireet wear, while ribbons, wraps, hat trimmings and even chenilies are beginning to plaid the hori- zon, . om o me Despair is destined to overtake the short-statured woman who makes up in bread th what she lacks in height, for the winter coat is to be half length, and to don it means 1o be grotesque. Bones are certainly having their inning these days. Safely concealed beneath bewildering plaids and misleading outer garb the scrawniest of the sex may delude the gazer as to her avoirdupois without re- course to uncomfortable padding. Then, too, jackets have jumped from Quaker plainness to elaborate trimmings, and the shorter garments are quite as im- possible for Mme. Embonpoint as are the coats, for the blouse front bulges there- from in all its Rus.ian rotundity. And a feather pillow tied midway with a string would look no funnier than madame, the hopelessly fleshed, in a jacket that owes its outlines to the land of the great white Czar. Hence, she has her choice of two evils—caricaturing herself or divorc- ing herself from correc: fashion by getting into a Newmarket or ulster, neither of which i a strictly dress garment. Besides fur coliars and revers, soutache and wide braids will be much in evidence; velvet and brocade goods will demand gold, sil- ver and jet braids. * Steadily grows the popularity of poplin, once deemed suitable for sober 70, but now admissible for sweet 17. This is good e Crystal is also attractively employed by this jeweler in articles for desk conven- ience, the interior of the glass being blown with bubbles which look like drops of water imprisoned, and which gzadually decrease in size to mere dots like the news for fashionable San Francisco, since dust is an enemy here of dry goods ana it takes much muscle on the nart of one's maid or one’s self to keep a street gown clean. Poplin is the more likely to recain its place throughout the season, because it markings of a seashell, A silver file has | issomewhat expensive and therefore in no & crystal globe for a standard and the set | danger of becoming too common. Dis- includes inkwell, pen sponge and match- | daining to wrinkle it hangs evealy and holder. freshly, retaining its newness, where Ornate and elegant are the beltclasps of | other fabrics would soon be shapeless and the designer’s fertile imagination and ex- | passe. It bas much of the richness of ecution. The amethyst, so long discarded | silk and none of the latter's faults, En princesse it will be seen developed most trequently. Its proper complement is velvet, used in the blouse, which may open over a vest of contrasting color in satin. . Women’s wardrobes this season will not be complete without several pop- lin skirts, which with a variety of waists will afford a multitude of changes. Par- ticularly chic is a plaid velvet blouse and black pophin skirt. Skirts are four yards wice with fives gores, and if worn with plaids are made quite plain. TR S SR Pretty feet appear to such advantage when tanshod, that this immensely popu- lar leather is to havea winter reign of use- fulness, in the darker shades, of course. Dress materials, it is said by the powers that be, will be yet seen in footgear, 10 match the gown worn. This means in creased activity among shoe-dealers and another swirt method of lightening the pocket-book. Which reminds me of the newest conceit in the purse line. It is a fad now to have one’s purse of the same stuff as one’s gown, gold clasved and gold initialed. e T e The blouse now rules in bridal gowning. It is developed charmingly in an importa- tion of satin duchesse, embroidered and filled in by a guimpe of mousseline de soie, the skirt paneled at the left with pleatings THE NEW LONG CLOAK. of the latter and cut in princess style. A recently completed bridal toilet is of ivory- white satin dnchesse, corsage close fitting, drawn to a slight fuliness in the front and draped artistically with a bolero of price- less white lace. The close-fitting sleeve flares at the wrist and terminates in a shoulder puff; the skirt is six-gored and trained. Another Octobsr bride has or- dered a gown of the same materia! with three-gored skirt, leg-o’'mutton sleeves, bodice closes fitting with prettily draped plastron of ivory mousseline de soie above a plaited bodics, caught at the left with bow and ends. WA * If you are blessed with a beautiful arm, by all means have an evening gown with sleeve effect in lace—point, if you can ai- ford it—draped to the shoulder with bow of ribbon and roses with fo'iage. Or yom may have a puff of filmy material on one shoulder and a bunch of roses on the other, matching the gown or contrasting with it as youfancy. Mousseline will be the reigning fabric for evening wear dur- ing the gay winter months, Novelties are seen in this material, in dois and bead work. For debutante or belle nothing could possibly be prettier or daintier. e Freaks in headgear have come to town. They are called the Montana and Dakota bat, are of felt, leather trimmed, cowboy- ish in shape and so loudly blue and green that one can hear them coming ten blocks away. Kor wear in the wi'd woods they would be picturesque. In town they tend to give one several different kinde of nightmare. Dorotny QuILL. .MarcelTa‘ 8 Modes. A simple black velvet skirt, made over a rich shade of cherry-colored taffeta, has a waist of cherry velvet, over which is a latticework of black ribbon velvet most artistically applied. The front opens to show a vest ol cherry velvet on which are sertions of black lace. The high black collar is lined with the silk and edged with a piping of the bright-hued velvet. At the wrists are ruches of the cherry silk. A similar ruche finishes the inside of the perfectly hung skirt. The hat accompanying this toilet is of black veivet and black ostrich piumes, the cherry velvet being introauced next the hair as a soft twist ending in a knot. Round the waist is an unusually hand- some jet belt. For a young woman a visiting-dress having a skirt of a rich velvet plaid, in which are mingled green, crimson, yellow, brown and biue, is extremely chic. The plaid is employed for the skirt only, and as arather dark green shade predominates the graceful little coat is composed of green velvet lined with crimson. The fronts are rather long and decidedly pointed, and the vest is of the crimson silk, which likewise lines the entire cos- tume. Three pinked ruffles adorn the in- side of the skirt. Indeed, all skirts are beautifully finished with ruffles that are not infrequently of expensive lace and insertions as well as of silk, and silk petti- coats will continue to be worn quite as much as ever, ant if anything they are more complicated and elaborate this season (han last. Also for calling is a handsome frock of a warm, deep blue colored Amazon clotn, the skirt of which has a design ex- quisitely carried out in black velvet. The jacket is absolutely plain and strictly tallor-made. The design on the skirt is repeated on a deep and novel collar. The jacket has blazer-like fronts. The softly wrinkled vestis of a grayish white silk, through which runs a dark blue figure, From Redfern’s. A pretty woman possesses a delightful gown from this well-known London house which has just been completed. A soft thick drab cloth is employed in its evolu- tion. The skirtis cutin the latest style and is narrow, the fuliness ull being arranged av the back. The lining is of violet satin; three ruffles finish the in- terior. The belted jacket is called a sacque bodice and has widening pleats in front lined with a deep tint of velours du Naples and embroidered in an intricate design, gold and violet threads being Intermixed. A vretelle is formed over each shoulder by using a choice sable skin, and the roll col'ar and cuffs are edged with the same costly fur. With this unusually handsome gown goes a belt of amethysts set in cut steel, a bat of violet velvet ihat exactly matches that used on the sacque bodice, the full soit crown. The fine ostrich plum re apparentiy held in place by a clasp of cut steel set with amethyst; pins-of the same description are used here and there. Many are the rumors, from Paris direct, that declare all sireet dresses are to be de- cidedly short so as to entirely miss the ground all around, 1f a pretty medium is reached what a com’ort it will be! Pink In Yogue. Several very beautiful American women wear no color but pink in the evening, and bave the daintiest creations in every possible shade of pink. Asaresultmany have raved over their charms, especially their exquisite complexions and perfect | coloring, s0 now that more time is given to the study of becoming shades and tex- tures not a few bave discovered that the best resuit may be obtained by wearing pink, therefore it is to be the favorite color for evening frocks this winter. Paris is now crowdea with shopper , and amongseveral well.known Americans Mrs. Vanderbilt s noticed a few days ago gowned in a tailor suit of moss green cloth. The tight-fitting jacket was of beautiful cut. The waistcoat was of Suede cloth, and had a narrow, straight collar. It fastened with handsome cut- steel buttons. In her simpie green falt | hst were quite a number of quills and a band of green gros-grain ribbon. Owls’ Heads. There is a great demand for the heads of these wite birds, and eutire owls of | goodly size form the principal trimming on many of the latest walking hate, and quaint brownisb cloth dress has tiny owls beads at intervals down either side of the front breadth. Mile. du Chemin recently appeared in a THIS IS THE NEW BARRED EFFECT. covert cloth made with a short double- breasted jacket, on which three small owls’ heads formed the trimming between the collar and waist -line. On her chic hat and muff appeared heads, a single large one adorning the small muff. The effect was considered excellent. Theater Bonnets. During her brief stay in Paris during last month the Princess of Naples intro- duced a very successful butterfly toque, made of wired beads. Some Duchesse lace also entered into its composition, small wings were at the sides, and such wings may be of brilliant paillettes or of cut jet. Lace wings, uniess jeweled and outlined with gold thread, are not very orna- mental. An original design of inverted and up- rising wings,artistically spanglea with sil- ver and diamonds, fastened in a diamond- studded, rose-pink gauze band, is worthy of admiration. and on somewhat the same plan is sn exquisite imported bonnet which figurea at one of the openings of a leading miliiner bere. It consists of a soft pandeau of turquoise blue ve'vet, from which arise tiny wingsof a brownish hue painted just like the wings of a great butterfly. - Nothing could be more dainty, and my description conveys buta poor idea of its merits. With a feeling of de- pression I heard the price— just think, only thirty dollars! Likewise the bonnet with a movable keadpiece should be recorded among the noveities; this piece is of fine jewelea open work and rests upon a band of crimpied tulle embroidered with jet, but next the hair is a wreath of shaded roses. At the left side is an aigrette of jetted black lace. This bonnet, with the center pieces, is suitable for many afternoon functions, and by removing the crown it may be worn to the theater. The small Dutch bonnet is a shape that suits many faces o well that nota few will be seen, and speaking of Some of the Hats Smart women are ordering them to match their dresses. If not precisely the same shade they are at least of the same color, so the great milliners and dressmakers are declaring that the success of ail winter toiletres depends upon everything being en suite. Paradise plumes and cocks’ feathers are much in evidence and the bandeau, which appears to be indispensable, is seen at the side of most hats frequently covered with silk or velvet roses. A bright-green toque, just completed, is considered as a model of its gind. The velvet crown is gauged and frilled in an intricate fashion and set on a bandeau, covered with shaded-green velvet roses, and trimmed with two green ostrich feathers. Many tones of green are used, but all blend perfectly. All toques now being imported convey the impression of width rather than of beight. Frisse vel- vet is generaily employed, although it is said that plush will likewise be in favor. The lofty effect produced by placing many loops oi ribbon, velvet or feathers erect on bats has not taken well. As a result, on many of the very latest { rush blindly chapeaux the trimmings are placed quite flatly. Since the great demand for uncut velvet for millinery purposes the ribbons of uncut velvet have appeared in the love- liest colors and shades. As yet we certainly have not grown ac- customed to the new ‘‘uilts,’’ as almost every other Parisian hat has to be worn at its own particular angle. Speaking of our hats reminds me that the up-to-date matron or maid always keeps her short hairs at the back of her neck in order, and the very latest tad, that has just reached New York, is to catch such hairs with a short, jeweled brooch, “a big center jewel, or a circlet of them.” Really Ido not see how such an arrange- mentwould be very ornamental, although, to be sure, Ican express no opinion, not having seen one used. The fad for going bareheaded when rid- ing a bicycle, which originatea in Newport this summer, has been very generally taken up by ‘“‘the sqt” in the East, and the reason that it originated was owing to the fact that many authorities dec'are that if hats were worn less our hair would be far more luxuriant. It seems from what one New Yorker says that the coming generation is threat- ened with baldness. I certainly do not think there are any indications of such a state of affairsin California. MARCELLA. WRECKAGE. BY HOWARD V. SUTHERLAND. There are periods iz the lifetime of every country when the national reason isin danger of being temporarily unseated; when through the national system the wild blood courses madly and when the national pulse beats with the fever of un- health. Atsuch times the nation is will- ing to do things to which it would not give a moment's thought in its rational periods. Wars, revolutions and rebeliions are then conceived and declared. At such times new ideas take hold of the nation, and whether rational or irrational, whether for the country’s good or prejudicial to its every interest, are put through and carried out in spite of the opyosition of the reason- ing minority. The history of the worid furnishes us with conclusive evidence that no nation is free from these crises; they appear to be necesssary for the working | out of its fate—for its advancement or | for its nltimate overthrow. In dealing with the Hawailan question, America has now entered upon one of these critical periods. Intelligent citizens are wondering whether the blood of the * » nation will cool in time to permit it to act | reasonably, or whether, following the wishes of a loud-voiced minority, it wiil into annexation. The un- thinking portion of the press, ever at the dispesal of the unthinking portion of the people, is clamoring for annexation; the | moderate portion of the press, voic- ing the opinions of thinking peo- ple, heartily opposes such a policy. The national reason appears to be temporarily unseated and the result is awaited anxi- ously. A like crisis has never come to us before, and the seriousness of the question is not as apparent to the average indi- vidual as it should be. The gravity of such problems is never appreciated at the time, even as their consequences can only bs judged by posterity. Itis moreover, one of the misfortunes of our age that we give so little attention to those who will follow in ocur footsieps and who will be naffected by our actions, et It must be apparent to a!l thinking peo- ple that the annexation of the Hawaiian Islands wouid be an injustice not only to the present owners of that place, but aiso to their sons and danghters to.come. No man is entitled to barter away his chil- dren’s right to the country they may be born in. When they come after him they will have a right to say how their country shall be governed, and this if it is under the control of strangers they cannot pos- sibly do. The stateinent that the natives desire annexation by the United States is untrue. The “majority of whites,” or in other words the people whose influence has already proven hurtful to the country, may desire it for personal reasons; but there the annexationists stop. The natives have as much regard for their own country as we have for ours, and their wishes, if we really wish to be considered a greatand good nation, must be respected. Lst us not forget that posterity will be an im- partial eritic. * » Disintegration, as applied to nations, more often than not is colonization spelled backwar: We must think of this when considering the desirability of annexation from our own point of view. Every colony has its skelelon in the closet and the skeleton is apt to show it- self at very undesirable moments. It is not possible in such an article as this to thrash over the dangers and expenses at- tendant upon foreign possessions. The increased budgets of every country at- tempting to invest in them, Germany and Italy for instance, will serve as eloquent witnesses against the wisdom of such a policy. Moreover, we have land enough m our own sparsely populated States without going abroad for more, the final price of which may be paid in our chil- dren’s blood. That is th: point in this question of annexation not to be lost sight of. That the betrayal of one country to another cannot be beld binding with those to come, even as the betrayal of Christ to the high priests did not rob us of our rightin him. For a time this nefarious transaction may be effected, but if it is it will surely be the cause of trouble, the ex- tent of which may be incalculable. The day of the artist has not yet dawned in California. Itis true that he is not stoned, neither is he hooted at when he appears on the streets in broad day- light. But the spirit displayed toward him is one of toleration merely. He is permitted to live as best he may on husks and crusts and thatisall. Pie and pre- serves are not for him at present. I notice, for instance, that the well-to-do Germans of this ecity bave raised funds for an expensive bronze monumentto b erected to the memory of Schiller and Geethe in Golden Gate Park. The under- taking is a praiseworthy one, as it will help to further beautify the finest park in all the world. But why in the name of all that is patriotic did the Germans s:nd the order abroad instead of intrusting it to one of our local sculptors? There are several competent artists in that line in the city and we should bhave taken nmore pleasure in the statue bad it been the work of any one of them. Why do not the artists themselves, painters, musicians and sculp- tors, agitate this matter and attempt to change present conditions? The press will assuredly help them. The question whether horses have souls or not is still agitating the minds of many reople. From a little incident that oc- curred in Fresno the other day it would appear that they have. A residentof that place, a Supervisur mcreover, was kicked todeath by adiscontented steed and to this day the animal has been unable to give sat- isfactory reasons for its conduct. Is it not possible that some -relative of this horse had been ousted from an easy job in the city’s employ and that the City Father was the victim of a diabotically conceived equine vendetta? The steed should be exhibited as a “hors de combat.” Some objection is being made to Police Comumissioner Gunst’s recommendation that ouly streetcars and lignt vehicles be permitted on Market street, on the score that goods are delivered to the stores and that delivery wagons must therefore use that thoroughfare. To a certain extent this is true, and the presence of a few such wagons would not be objecteu to if they only went there on business. At present the driver of every vehicle in town, irom the garbage-cart up, resorts to Market street at some hour of the day. He takes pleasure in seeing the patrol-wagon go by at regular intervals and in exchanging nods with his acquaintances in front of the Baliwin Hotel. This is an American city and no one denies the swill gen- tleman’s rizht to drive where he pleases. Moreover, as long &s he bas relatives on the police force he will continne to do 50 1n spite of regu- lations to the contrary. But when, in the course of u year orso, the center of the city moves several blocks up own, 1t will be absolutely necessary to relegate heavy traflic to the side strcets. The sooner a start 1s made in this direction the sooner good results will be attained. In this re- spect San Francisco is about twenty years behind the leading cities of the world. Greer Harrison’s 1heory that there is a relation existing between flowers and har- monies; that the lily of the valley is an unborn operetta and the rose an unpub- lished song. 1s somewhat startling, but not outside the bounds of reason. But why, pray, does Mr. Harrison leave the vegetable world out in the cold? The onion, for instance, to a truly poetic temperament is not unlike one of Richard ‘Wagner's operas, in that it brings tears to the eyes and is viewed with dismay by a considerable number of people. The leek, like one of Gilbert and Sullivan’s crea- tions, is much beloved by a certain class, and the radish is ceriainly no rosier than the stage-setting cf a war drama by Mr. Belasco. Unless Mr. Harrison will amend his theory a litile I fear that he will not be supported in it by the Iialian vegetable- gardeners. A doctor in Illinois has been sentenced to imprisonment because he sliied himself to eleven wives before either or any of them had been removed from his path by Providence or divorce. Eleven is an odd number, especially where wives are con- cerned, and the maa undoubtedly de- serves being punished for his folly. How, we may ask, would a mixed jury look at this question? Would a wowan juror punish a man for having fallen a victim to the charms of eleven of her sex? Would she not be likely to sympathize with him, even to pity him, yet wish there were more men who would follow his example? Considering the prepon- derance of women over men, eleven to one would seem to an impartial observer about a fair ratio. As I remarked be- fore, it is only the man’s rash imbecility for which he should be punished. Mrs. Langtry, to whom modesty is coming with old age, has retired from the stage—which is not unfortunate for the latter. The lady, however, has elected to retain her yacht knowing that for aaver- tising purposes, a pleasurs boat is in every way as serviceable as diamonds, The Alameda Board of Health has or- dered that all cattle having successtully passed the tuberculin examination shall have their ears pierced and copper buttons inserted therein. In deference to the feel- ings of these ladylike creatures would it not have better become the Board of Health (composed presumably of unmar- ried gentlemen) to* have ordered that the buttons be made of silver? The mintsare full of this much ~ abused metal, and now that the Bryan tire has beea hopelessly punctured it is likely to lie there for many & year. By placing silver buttons in the ears of our cows some of it would at least be put into circulation. It is now gravely announced that a new understanding has been arrived at be- tween Russia, Germany, ¥rance and Austria for the future division of Turkey. These understandings have been of annuat occurrence for the iast quarter of & century and are of no importance whatever save to occasionally afford a paragrapher ma- terial for comment. At the outbreak of the war with Greece it was universaily predicted that the disintegration of the Ottoman empire was merely a matter of months; that the country proper, consisting of -about 1,600,000 square miles, would be divided among the powers, and that the beneficent light of Curistianity would rapidly perco- late through the faulty intellects of the inhavitants and win them over to our own standard of grace. This, how- ever, is not the age of fable and fairy-tale. The Sultan enjoys his biack coffee with his evening meal as uncen- cernedly as it 13 possible for an Ottoman potentate so to do, and Mohammed still bolds the first mortgage on the souls ot :his subjects. The Turkish soldiers are stalwart fighting men and have proved that they can be relied upon to render a good account of themselves. The parti- tion of Turkey will undoubtedly have to be postponed for another century or so. THE HOME-COMING. We thank thee, Father, that at last Our wanderer is home ; That all his dangers now ate past, That he no more need roam In foreign lands, or on the deep Whose treacherous waters never sleep. We thank thee that thy guiding hand Hath led this one we love In safety to his native land ; That thou, from heaven above, Hast watched him every night and day And kept all harm from him away. ! We thank thee that with happy eyes Each welcomes him again That naught need mar our glad surprise Nor cause our wanderer pain. | We thank thee that his winding path | Hath brought him safely to our hearth, And as in thankfulness we bend This night, we pray to thee i That thou will guard all men, and send Them back from land or sea; Nor long from those who wait defer The coming of their wanderer. HOWARD V. SUTHERLAND. Detectives detailed to look after profes- sional shoplifters always look to see if their suspects are wearing gloves A ¢‘professional,’” it is declared, never works with his gloves on. NEW TO-DAY. $200 00 For CORRECT —ANSWERS! Most Unique Contest of the Age—$200.00 Paid for Correct Lists Made by Supplying Missing Letters in Places of Dashes—No Lottery—Popular Plan of Education—Read All the Particulars. In the United States four times as much money Is expended for education as for the military. e, Brain 1s vetter than brawn. By our educational fler you an opportanity to display your knowledgs nost generous payment for a little s dy. The object of this contest is to give . an impetns 1o many dormunt minds to awaken and think; also we expect by this competition of brains to ~xiend the circuiation of Woman’s World and Jenness v iller Monthly to such a sz that we shall ve avle to charge double the present rate for advertisins in our columns. By this plan of increasiog the number of subscriptions and recelving more money fiom edveriisers of soaps, planos, medicine , books, baking powders, jewelry, et 00 and with this mathematical deduction before us, we have decided to operate this most remark: *missing leiters”’ contest. sball add W HERE'S WHAT YOU ARE T0 DO. Thera are thirly words Ia this schedule, from each of which letters have been omitted, ana thelr piaces have been supplied by dashes. erly you must have some knowledge of geography and history. 25 cents to many word WOMAN'S W you can, then send to us with 1n. your list coutains twenty Of more corm ct words, ScarfPin (for lady or gentleman), the reguiar price of which your list, you are positively cert have an'opportuni:y of the Yorx makes no difference. PRIZES WILL BE For correct lists we shall give ®200.00 in cah son rends a full. correct I's , the money will be awarded td the fifty best jists in appearance. To fill in the blank spaces and ge the names prop- We want you to speil out as 50r @ three mouths’ subscription to 1f more than one per- Also, 1t we shall send you a ' eautiful £.ge: ia Dlamond is $2.25. Therefore, by sending pay n of the 82 25 prize, aad by being careful to send a correct li:t_you 0.00 cash » ward. All have equal op;ortunity for winning. The disiance that you may live from New SENT PROMPTLY. Prizes will be honestly awarded and promptly sent. We publish the list of words to be studied out. _ A country of South -RA-1I Amerios. Name of ‘he latgest ‘A'l‘ I‘ body of water. M-D--E--A-E-- s = Alsrge river. T i A e s wail-lg:;';;l’:.lve! of 8- AN~ - Ao mgatine N-A-A 9. = E__ E" E_ Oneo:tt‘nle”l.lnmd ©ON N AW N = 10. - A- R1- aciyorepun. 11 H-V - - f At ong wetinown 12. §-M-E - ATt Sare dh 13. G- - R- L-A- vt 14. S' A'I-E" Agre:)tvxp::;er.n - An making your list of answers, be sure to give the namber of each word: [16. B= 8 M - - K 4 notea ruter. 17. == c T 0_ I = Anmr:lrux?mm 18.P-R-U-A- o = 19. A-8ST-A- 1= rvie ana. |20. M-~ IN-E- it e 2B F - =R ofect s vnited iaies. 22. J-F--R-- Nocoanedtones! 23, 5 U- 5 N A large lake. 24 E-E-8- N xnotea poet. 2. G-R- A * e, oy, e ‘\26. B = R i 0 A large island. Popu'ar fam- 27 W-W--SW-R-D i 28.B-H-1-G sen iZ'A'L'N'l' An ocean. 130. M-D-G-S-A-*=ere ted States. In sending your list of words mention whether you want your prize money sent by bank dratt, money order or regls ered mail: we will send any way that winners require. The Egeria Diamond is a perfect imitation of a Real Diamond of iarge 8ize. We dety experts to uistin- gulsh it feom real except by microscopic test. In every respect It serves tae purpo.e of Gienuine Diamond of Purest Qualitv. ILtisa:tist.cally mounted In a fine zold-plated pin, warranted to wear forever. This plece of j-welry wiil a mostdesirab'e gift toa friend if you do not need it yoursal?. v of taese gifts is iimited, and if they are all gone when your set of hull send you ~2,25 in monev insiead of the Scart or Shawl Pin, : the piece of jawelry or the equivalent I n cash, 1n acditlon fo your parici® $200.00 cash prize. This entire offer i Boise. We refer W mercantile agencie 10 you it you ace dissatistied. Whatmore can we do? Now study 8nd exchange slight brain work for cash. "With your iis: 0f answers send 25 Cents Lo pay for thres months’ subacripiion 0 our great family magazine, Womn1’s World. Ii you have already subscribed, mention that fac: {n , 0ur leiter, and we w1l extend your subscripion from the time the present one expires. To avold loss ia sending silver, wrap money very carefully in paper before la- closing In your letter. Address JAMES H. PLUMMER, Publisher, 22 and 24 North Willlam Street (Departm=nt527), New York City, N, Y. I e S A i or FADED HAIR RESTORED to WILCOX SOMROUND CR Youthtul color and beanty by DI, HAYS" HATR' HEALLH Yy Y2 LS moves dandruft and scalp disease. *Don't -&: ”s lL skin. Covers BALD spots. Absolutely less. The only reliable female regulator Lareshottles 20 centa, ut divggivts. Retail agents. Never Falls. Sold by druggists, $2.00 AGFERCENTAGE FHARMACY, 033 Market st. Send 4c. for Woman's Nafegnards holesale-MACK & CO.; LANGLEY & MICH. il AELS: COFFIN, REDINGTON & CO. 'WILCOZ MEDICAL 00,228 8. 8th St, Fhils,Pay