The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 5, 1897, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, PTEMBER 5, 1897, 27 women ore for their Ler than for those e modiste. The lady disdain u the intruder-; <light sprinkli i them less notices But w we have a pound: W powder that makes rious question to on a!l others are more or less unbecoming; | uted, w e physicians of art for gen- oman can resc person note or a society 1 with | the fachion for so doing. fore the | however, | 1’ change | cronped, ¢ To some | the part In Americs, there is to be areaciion from this mcde. Mrs. McKinley, leadinz lady of the land, and t.erefore to be copied in all things, wears her soft brown by tiny combs. All feminine on at onc: cropped and carled its At the various nmer ese dames f om the cipital were gazed s )'s a certain wonderful method J at, in horror at first, because the fashion bair ed and he'd at either side of resorts their ruffled gowns, and they would try to extend the summer well into the winter months, Which one ot fashion’s dictators is re- | sponsible for the horrorsI have in mind | is not known, but it is certain that many are following in itslead. All 10 be dispensed with in the tops of sleeves: all the fascinating liitle ruffles and puffs, even the few gathers and pleats that have Iullness is | | without saying, “If you do not mind let- ting me have the pattern Ishould be so much obliged,” and some go further ana want to borrow the garment itself fora iew hours or a day or so, or perhaps they only wish to ascertain exactly where you purchased your hat or bonnet. Itshould be etiquette to refuse to grant such re- quests, for any woman bpo-sessed of a vestize of style does not care to have her clothing copied, even if it means only a sleeve or fichu, and who wants to see her best friend in a chapeau almost a dupli- cate of the one she is wesring, even if she looks like an angel in it and her friend like a fright? Yet most of ns know that we are ex- pected to smilinx an patierns, elc., with seeming nleas: I'hough we meay heve to pay our dressmaker well to cat the pattern, so as to avoid tne loaning of the garment, and as the seaton is ap- proaching when new patterns and modes will bz under discussion I havs had it suggested to me that a few remarks on this topic might have a neneficial effect and wou!d be highly a) preciated by sev- eral sufferere. added grace to this important part of a | Circumstances alter cas»s, but under 1 in bea in ther selves at women are on, it not for ¢ future ger tennis courts, country roads; ih.re le ra- tact, where is The the present age | are in despair over the complexion of | eir r life, delicate sk ildre ts of this opt ast them with their own which have been protected | e elements; grandme y ve even finer g descendants. pink and w e face was in the post’s mind, | of constaut exposure | ation ) s of the | 8 her, be 1se her | s stomed to their | 4 sunburn are the | ats and vails are ng and other out- siter a few vears of he open air—skating and driving and boat- er—the city girl’s ost rival that of her 1 the matter of roses and roses and lilies are not nd powder, but are the t outdoor ex- war against | Some years ago these wiss | [ 1o Le Vi and claimed woman 1 seen the folly of | i had ible short adopted a se B uniorta n friend rt of a short n the rage. Paquine and all other | ter buve decided that the nes and curves of a trailing more becoming to the n is the straight effect sidered good so their wearers letting Our Amer to this m t so disastrousiy the skirt be sorry tolearn that bonnets are rapidly taking the place of hats. The r n for the ch threefold. ¥ the aga zh hats 1r pubilc a in W an to seek | s 1 not have tc : es that even women c r tolerate bound to follow an excess, n a fashion, so the pendulum , from the h confusen er decoratio ke, to a da under the chin shoulder capes of da ibbon or velvet. This is be- is made of white t styl y d 1 RaRy ‘ffl‘"’";‘-;n;. old, as are also large buttons and fancy buckles. LRI -»---.“-—Q—-M This group represents a family of girls, ranging in years from 4 to 14. ine, with large collar edged with lace, and is also very stylish. e most becoming 1o ones of slender build. The above cuts represent costumes in tweed or cloth for girls. The little tot is ready for the street, and this coat of gray cloth, with yoke and cer velvet covered with lace, will commend itself to all mothers, as it is dressy and still quite suitable for a child. The coat for the older one The blouse effect is going to be worn very much this season by young and The skirts are trimmed with braid and the waists the women of the ) arrangemsent ‘“‘the bow outlandish it res and wr inder the th e evidence of waning pat— | fashion, natter | may make some of them appear. i It is not many years since Mrs. Langtry | ed the fashion of chopping off all the hair on the top of the head, curling the short ends into little rings and waves and | roducing what was known as a *‘bang.” (he much-abuse ¢ bad time to w women are looking from between straight the hair ng st doubt be Powd yogue—just a faint dust der—and the especially for ev X ch an awful sh tresses ha with ric becomir to ¢ rdrawn down cver the ears, silver threads creeping in | because Cleode Merole, Parisian music- | dark tresses, yet the up-to- | hall dancer and favorita of a king, has set | is certainly unbecoming to almost every one, but when the “why and wherefore’’ | s was learncd mzids and matrons rushed to their rooms, combed ont their Merode locks and cut them off. Now the McKin- ley curls nave msde their way from Maine Klondike, and will doubtless hold their own until the arrival of some nesw social or theatricai star. If our ladies of leisure could see the herrors that are being prepared for their inspection by Parisian fashion-builders a gloom would settle itself over their sum- mer retreats, where they are reveling in | bodice, are to be discarded. A plain ceve fitted close to the wearer's arm, set i in as piain as a man’s coat sleeve, is to be | the substitute. This style is neither com- ‘ fortable nor pretty, and 15 especially un- | becoming to some arms, unless the aress- | to the Rio Grande, and from Key West to | maker understands the art of building up tbe deficiencies of nature, | Whether the women who usually bow | their heads to these “ireaks of fashion’ | accept this new mode remams to he seen, CyNTHIA. Introductory Remarks. Many people never see a pretty garment We hawe here three exquisite waists of latest design, suitab'e for weddings, receptions or party occasions. They are models of beauty, elegance and taste, neither too elaborate nor plain to suit the most fastidious. can be made of any pretty, soft material, and decorated with lace and ribbon. The hair is dressed and powdered in the latest style to suit different types of beauty. Waists ordinary cases the woman is wise who never borrows, dir ctly or indirectly. For example, take the case of an excellent housekeeper who is asked for a recipe. She kindly gives it, and later hears that she must have omitted something, as it did not turn out right. She may politely say nothing, but may know perfectly well that the ingredients used were inferior to those employed by her. Such things may occur but seldom, but popular is the woman who asks no favers, but who grants as many as she can gracefully. This is the season when nothing definitely is known concerning the coming fashions, but after the great milliners and dressmakers have had their private opesings, we will have some positive in- formation. However, in the meanwhile, it is interesting to relate the charms of many ararely lovely frock lately noted, without which some belle could not have quite complete ! this season, and all such dresses give us hints as to what we may expect later on. At.a Seaside Dance Recently more than one gown chal- lenged the admiration ot the initiated, and as muslins, organdies, chiffons and wousselines de soie over silk will be worn all tnis winier by the younger set at dances, etc., I must mention that a pale blue muslin richly inserted with Valen- ciennes was worn over a white glace skirt. The lace was of a creamy tint, ana it like- wise appeared on the bloused bodice, the sleeves of which consisted merely of three fluffy lace-encrusted frills, A rose-pink mousseline de soie had a skirt entirely composed of frills, each one of which was edged with a narrow black Valenciennes lace. The bodic: had a full ruche, trimmed with the lace and this en- circled the jow-cut neck. The sleeves lockd like exiru large ruches, and round the very slender waist was passed a wide satin belt that tied smartly at the left side. On the bodice were many insertions, and the blick gzave a chic touch, for it was combined with exactly the rizht shade of pink, and the silk undersiip of soft-fin- ished taffata equally well selected. A charming bride with dusky hair and a beautiful color was most picturesque in a black mousseline de soie, with inser- tions of aliernate rows of black and white chantilly, outlined with rows of jet. The foundation was of white sutin. Round the bottom of the skirt on the inside were three full ruffles of satin, two of black and one of white; all had insertions of lace, and were edged without as well. The bodice had a deep girdle of white and black satin, held apparently in place by an unusually hand-ome buckle of cut jet, Most charming of all, perhaps, was a muslin, printed - with large mx\uyl ol azaleas, over a mauve pink glace silk. The bodice was a demi-blouse. A large scarf of the same silk as the foundation ‘was borderea with a pinked-out ruche of [the same. Many inserions and much lace beautified the bodice. The wearer, being very slender, wisely had a trans- parent lace yoke and the same sort of sleeves that extended to the elbows only, but now are under discussion. Toilettes for the Fall. And already our dressmnkers are radi- antly discussing the beanty of the fabrics and the cut of the iatest badice and skirt, and in Paris has ju-t been created a cos- tume of biue etaniine, most oddly trimmed with bands and iails of green t ffeta, bhoneyecmbed and e tged w:th tiny white vandykesin the stye that has jus: ap- teared and is known as poinie de Jara, Round the hem are s bands of green ] veivet. A draped belt fota b i | £ Velvet bands cross the yoke front, and he uprer part of the ruched sleeves is cut in a single piece. With this may be compieie witha bow of velvet and a tuft of tlowers. Quite simple but infinitely preferable [ taink isanotherdressthat from a great tailor. 1ltisof a de of gray cashmere veloute, id. The jaun'y j cket is cut in deep scal- lops arcund the bottom, and the deep collar and :quare-cut revers are of white corded silk, just outlined with a single row of the black silk cord. The waistcoat is of point de Venise over white silk. Any handsome heavy lace will answer thesame purpose. The hat that will go with this costume perfectly is of black velvet, with a straight brimm and pretty fancy crown. At the right side is a great cheu of a gauvzy white stuff and on the left a large and handscme aigraite. White gloves with black stitching should be worn. The entire frock is most glace or black surah of the best possible quality. Such a dress admits of many changes and is a delightful posses- sion if properly made in every respect. Concerning Riding Habits. There 1s little change in their cut, the principal point belag that the long rounded off like a man’s morning coat. The long basque remains in style, but now dark mixtures and plain dark hues, such as blues, browns, drabs and olive greens, are entirely taking the place of the gray cloths so greatly in vogue during the past month. As women learn to appreciate the use- ‘ulness of the covert coat it will increase in popularity. Two very excellent oncs are now in my thoughts. usually made in drab cloth. The best tailors find that coats and skirts continue mostin demand, &s they seldom have or- | ders for close-fitting bodices, for long busques are mera generally worn by smart women who like taiior-mude garments better than any other. A Red Serge Novelty Is a yachting dress of bright red, with tiny flecks of black sprinkled over it. The jaunty jacket has facings of black moire, edged with a bluck and gold cord braided in a small design. The blouse of red silk is also flecked with black and has anarrow plastron of black arranged in small tucks across the figure. With this goes a b'ack straw sailor hat, trimmed with a ruche of red silk. At the left side are high bows and loops. Hats. The latest consist of linen or pique. The crown is full and covered with an applique and long sireamers in the back of | worn a hatdrapd with green toffeta ana | useful and serviceable if built over black | basques, instead of meeting in front, are | Such coats are | of lace; at tue left side is a bunch of | quills. This style Las just been created in France, and such chapeaux look espe- cially well with linen or pigue dresses. Quite chic is a light gray straw hat, wh:ch has chiffon pleat:d inside around the brim. Two rather large gray birds nestle among ti e soft folds of chiffon that encircle the low crown, and at the left side is a full gray aigrette. Pink toques with white chiffon and | Wit gs or sigreties have been worn consid- erably to preity luncleons; also green, as thes: colors go so well with most summery | fabrics. However, those made entirely ot chiff in or lace a‘e far move stylish for vourg women. Ei'k musiin has also been extensively employed in their evoluiion. One such, from Par s cirect, consis sof a pouf of diay hanous pink, with four short ostrich plumes the side. A lew jink roses nestle next the r. Embro dered crowns, beautifullywrought, will cont.nue to flourish aud can n-ver be- come common, as they are too expensive for most purchasers. Many are now being sronght, not only with rea! gold'and sil= ver threads, but with real jewels as well. R d and black promises to be fashion- | able this winter, but the lovely poppies will vanish at the approach of October. but wing, feathers, aigreties and birds promise to be in great demand in spite of all the efforts of that very excellent so~ | ciety to prevent their usage, | Many fashionzble women will include | in their millinery orders this item, ‘‘one | Victori:n bonnet,”” as to many they are extremely becoming, imparting a piquant charm hitherto unsuspected. It is more than whisperel that bonnets are to come very decidedly to thefront; but no matter how pretty or chic, most of them add a few years at least to their wearers’ ap- pearance. The smartest hats now obtainable for dressy wear are made of black-beaded and crumpled straw, trimmed with two biack feathers dos-a-dos at the side and a bunch of French roses squeezed in between the niches in the straw. In good style for one of our resorts is a fine white chip hat, at one side of which is & great black falling paradise feather, at the other is a huge black satin chou. Chit-Chat for Travelers. Many owners of yachts have invested in the new card tables that revolve at the top and cen readily be transformed into writing tables containing every stationery | requisite. ‘Iravelers appreciate the latest portable drinking cup that may readily be carried in the waistcoat pocket, as iv looks like a watch, and the new curting tongs that will heat with a match appeal to some. Lemon Squeezers. Have you tried the iatest lemon- squeezers? They are plated and resemb'e a pair of forks, whaich, interlacing, exude | every drop of moisture out of the lemon, | the perforated circle in which they rest | straining the juice and retaining the pips. Silver is not sufficiently strong, so plated ware is used generally. Fruit Instead of Flowers. The latest fad concerning table decora- tion is to have no flowers on the festive board. Thev are placed in every nook and corner of the dining-room—upon the | wide mantelpiece, in large bow:s upon the sideboards, masses of pink and white and yellow and green—but the table 1s orna- mented with fruit only. Greengages, plums, peaches and grapes arranged with leaves in Dresden china baskets is the fashion of the moment, but one 1 feel cer- tain will not last long, although, to be sure, I admit thatfruit lendsitself tomany charming effects of color, espacially at this season, when the peaches and plums have so beautiful a bloom, and to bandle fruit successiully requires much taste and care. MARCELLA. CURTAINS, CARPETS AND FLOOR COVERINGS ¥ saxcny Axminster Carpets and Carpets in all_the lat- Linoleums. est snades, colorings und igns at 95 cents per yard, ich ioc'udes borderine, layiog and best lining; cost regularly $1 25 per yard. INGRAIN CARP —the 55-cent kind--can be had tuis wees for 35 cents per yard. Bes: All-wool Ingeiins—35 cents yard. Tapestry Carpets—50 cts yard. Others at 55¢, 63¢ and 80¢ yard, incluaing borders. Pody Brusse's best quality, nsw patterns and Empire an | Vandyke borders, §1.10 per yard. LINOLEUMS, 4 yards wide—43¢ per yard. OILCLOTHS—18¢ poer yard. We hav: an excellent assortment of these goods. The latest, the coolest looking and the most beautiful ever turncdout by Oriental exrerts saving inevery line during this sale. Three great bargains this wesk. A positive { xo 3— Sixteenth and Valencia Sts. NEW TO-DAY. ISP S UUS TP PN W A\t Special Prices! Our regular prices are lower than the so-called ‘‘special prices” of our downtown competitors. An A downtown Carpet Do atment advertises a cotiou-thread &1 Instamce. e, f'ing faoric under tho e of Kiddeminst r Carpet, lined and 'aid, at & al price of L0 sents por yard. Ovr resulac ior genuine Kiddeminster has always been €0 there you are. n s) price 35 cents. You will 1i *@ them because they arebeautifu'. ) bey are offered at specialy tempting prices. Lace Curtains. Brussels, Irish tofac or Re- pair. ony Erussels or Irsh Point— arr. Y ecular 38 Brussels and Swiss Tambour-$4.50 air. Fine 85 Nottingham and French Striped Cur- tains—8:.50 pair. 3 Fine $2 50 and $1 50 Nottinghams for just one- half. MATTINGS. No. 1—Fancy Matiinzs, handsome checks and stripes, 1 5¢ k! No. 2—Fanc, d from 25¢ to 15 cents xtra Quali pinese Maiting. in setin damask and iniaid designs, cut from 8Jc 10 eats. . e e e “z | Pattosien’s | San Francisco. CUT THIS OUT. The only one by which you can make a gar- ment without trying on. PERFECT PATTERNS. 1079 MARKET STREET. LEDERER’S HAIR- DRESSING, 25. A remarkabiy low price for such remarkably fine hair-dress- ing. 1 uaveouly ONE PRIC 1make a8 ndy ot the latest Pa- ris an styles and ean give :adies any style coiffure they may de- 6. LEDLRER, I1i Stockton St. or FADED HAIR RESTORED to youthful cnlor and heauty by DK. HAYS' HATR HEALTH. Re- moves d:ndruff and scalp disease. Don't stain Cuvers BALD spts. Absolutely harmiess. at diwgglsts. Itetiil ukents. & 05 AN G DY e Sl AELS; COFFIN, REDINGTON & CO. SPECTACLES EYE GLASSES ACURATFLY FITTED BY EXPERT OPTICANS AT MODERATE PRICES. OPTICIANS Zano ™ proT0RAPHE L 642 MARKET ST. UNDER CHRONICLE BUILDING ml:.-d Brond. ENNYROYAL PILLS and Only Genutne. SarE, “alwaze reliable, ax Druggist for nd Refuse dangerous substitu- it ottons, A DrOEEISt, o seud S ;.p-n.hnhn. test{montal. and dles,” in letier, by ratura L 10,000 Testimonials. Neow Japer. £ FRILADAS FA