The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 22, 1897, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, AUGUST 22, 1897. 27 JThese Be Queer Innovations in the Realm Where Fashion Rules Woman With a Law as Firm as the Sun and as Fickle Cool weather brines with it a hintof| grenadine tbey make very chic costumes. pproaching winter. It will be many | Many dancing gowns will be made of | give way to the scmber hues of grays and however, before the need of | dainty colors of crepe de chine or chiffon- ! browns. The leaders of fashion haveal- | ready turned a favorable eye to these prettily when | quaint hues. Black and white have not Lace- like designs in flat mohair braid and silk | dued in effect it may seem, yet neverthe- i in wide bands, 50 as to | less the combination of brown, tlick and the days—week much heavier material will be felt, [he most striking features of the fsll styles is their uncertainty. Some few things, however, stand out from the midst of the chaos, and most pronounced 1s the continued lhiking for They can be made of rich material and superbly trimmed. In contrast with those of the past the | trimmings now extend to the back of the bedice, thus showing more unity of style. Folds are o'ten ' placed diagonally and in deep groups. Sometimes a deep belt is discarded and the bodice ends in & short point, reaching barely an inch behind the waist. Then, again, the newer ones are seen with basques of almost every description. They are usually close-fitting, extending around the whole corsage. The leg o' mution sleeves still remain popular for heavier materials, but are made much smaller than usval, and the wrinkled and mmed sleeves will be chiefly used in weight fabrics. irts remain almost unchanged. The t is as usual, and fitted to the figure, the back the form is that of the irt. Ruffles at the foot of the skirt £Tow deeper; in fact, they are fast grow- ing into flounces, as we have already seen some very handso dresses with the flounce reaching to the middle of the fall dress the d material, the of greer e skirt. An of the past, to 1saw a very elegar r dayof a t of many. French sively and Vienna j trimmed ar with superposed flou nd, flutterlngs or pleatings, ed foot trimmings. yws of bouillonnes, braidings or tiny nd are carried to the waist at regu- veled braid. i has outlived their evil s still presents an ex-| amy ted utility and taste. Those who attire themse!ves in to-mor- | row's fashions and notin those of to-day | have ady reaounced that of the bolero | and preler elegantly trimmed bodices adorned with laces, pleatings or ruchings. Lace insertio e as a corsage finish. ferring ba » newest have the front entire and closed, and are either embroidered or covered with circular rows of velvet or ost of the cloth and serge bo- s jackets, have borders clot ana the trim- tially over this aad the edge nmed in she same fash- s are much nar- t 10 be discarded by s, of course, are seen | ut [ wastold by a big furrier capes in Although rowed capes are not shat t yrepara were 11830, with some modern in, will be popular for s. The princess gown is d to be rev.ved, which looks well d young alike. | i1t the latest way of making them @ the waist and skirt but joi nvisinly below the the fastening being either hid rimming or else a fold of o!ls around the hips. is much more practical than the ioned gown, as it thus is made get into. The practical founlards ees, with their spotted and fig- will yet remain popular. weaves are the mcst availa- yachting garments, those 1 which | irregular being the most rimmed with Scoteh plaid | the blouse waist. | ces in some cases cover the entira | tervals, sometimes with the addition et, in spite of s, however, are the most | to boleros I will say that as the Wind. ette, white being preferable. They make up very | irimmed with gold and white lace. | cord are display It is predicted that the bright colors will yet lost their popularity. Though sub- Gray Cashmere Gown Brightened by Insertions of White Mohair Braid Over Scarlet. be used jor panels, skirt- borders and bodice aecorations. Belts and girdles are made of black or | white satin, sometimes embroidered with | heavily during the coming season—in jewels. Beads, cords or spangles are sup- plied for many of the bodices. Sierre, Honiton and Point d’Alencon lace edges are much used for neck and sleeve frilia, E white in millinery will be stylish. The walking shaped hat still retains its favor. Trimmings will pot be massed so fact, a speeay entire reaction of the past style is promised, Large dots are no longer fashionable in veils. The new scarf veilis long, and is adjusted about the hat in the usual way, the ends being brought forward and tied under the chin. Chiffon veils are still in tavor. This is to be a fall season of the most original shapes of hats that we have had for a number of years. In fact, Tam told on the best of authority that there is to be no particular shape to bs adhered to. There will be no ironclad rules to guide the wearer, and she is at liberty to wear just what she pleases. The stiff felt has gone out almost entirely, and in its place has come the fascinating, soft material known as “‘mauchou,” which is in reality a thick cloth that can be shaped into a. most any form that may suit the wearer’s fancy. Undoubtedly there will be a sort of general uniformity of shape, as such is likely to come about of its own accord, and it may be that certain sections of the country will adopt styles of a certain shape that will suit them. But it 15 safe to say that there will be no two hats alike. Each will have a character of its owh, and a most decided distinction. As 1o the colors we are going to wear on our heads this fall, aifferent shades of gray or a mixture of gray and white will be largely in evidence. Then there are harmonies in violet, mixtures of green and black, gray and otnmer dull tones brightened up with rose color, and beige combined with black. Beige usualiy ap- pears in the foundation and is extended le<s frequently to the trimming. For traveling and morning hats this color wiil be used as much as gray. The shape most fancied for these hats is the soft Tyrolean, with a wide band of gros grain round the crown which is squeezed into a deep ridge at the top. A bunch of quill feathers or a handsome buckle may be added by way of decoration, but these hats will be | frequently worn without, In trimmings velvet plays an important part. Velours, miroir, plain and glace, made up into fringes and puffs, will be preferred to ribbons for hats of all shapes, whiie some fancy velvets with very small dottings or tiny checked effects are also seen. Fiowers will be very little used dur- ing the coming season, plumage taking its place at the head. Every sort of plumage will be in great demand; ostrich taking the lead for the more ex- pensive trimmings. Jet will also be very popular, and black lace will be most extensively used. This latter is the in- evitable resull cf the present fancy there isnow for it as a decoration for dresses. The new models are considered smaller than those in vogue at present, but they still have decided brims. Low crowns seem to be most in favor, and toques are slightly smaller than they were last year, and are almost invariavly ecocked up over the lelt ear. For fabric hats, drawn ar- rangements, obtained by gauging, are beiter liked than smoothly stretched ma- terial. Velvet will |e used for this pur- pose, but wiil share popular favor with silk, especially plaiu, glace and moire tal- fetas. For puffed toquesand hat erowns «ilk will also be used as much as velvet. Fancy woven materials, 1ncluding lace ana net, made up over silk, will be in de- mand. The new capes are longer than hereto- fore and quite a little fuller, the upstand- ing collar being cut in one with the gar- ment, the Iast being a decided 1nnovation. Braiding is used extensively as decoration for these graceful and becoming garments, and has much to recommend it, as it is serviceable, suitable for almost any ma- terial, and is capable of good artistic ef- fects. A very dainty cape cut in this brand new sityle was of a soft, indistinet gray, trimmed with traiding of a little darker shade in a simple but effective pat- tern and linad with rase-colored taffeta. No better between-season wrap can be had than one of these pretty capes. Another style of braiding is also in favor for full-dress gowns. Lhis is quite new as far as we are concerned, though the cus- tom dates back as far as a century ago. It1s braiding in cord made of silk and SEASIDE TOILETTES. NG T ‘llll\lllllli’l'l‘] ] Fig. 1.—Seaside toilette of pale blue pique trimmed with fancy white braid; seven-gored skirt; chemisstte of white muslin; straw bat ornamented wit: batavia cloth and roses. Material required, 12 yards pique 32 inches wide. ¥ig. 2—Yachting costume of white canvas cloth, adorned with black braid; blouse of mus in: circular skirt. Material required, 7 yards canvascloth 45 incheslwide, Fig. 3—Yacnting costume of blue and white striped pique,with band at foot of skirt and revers of white pique; blouse of Indiansilk; belt and cravat of black satin; seven-gored skirt. Material required, 8 vards p‘que 32 inches wide. Fig. 4,—Country costume of linen; ter-gored skirt, trimmed scross hirs and back with drawn rib- bons; with grasses and roses. Material required, 8 yards linen 44 inches wide, olero jacket sdorns the same, having bands of white pique scross front, finished at closing with white pearl buckle; belt and collar of white satin; hat of white tulle, trimmed 4 STARTLING BATHING COSTUME—White Serge Costume Entirely Tucked and Finished at the Neck Waist and Knees by Bands of Pale Blue Surah. somewhat coarse, and will be much used this coming season for elaborate evening dresses. Still another kind of braiding is to be used on the short, jaunty-looking | jackets that will be much worn for late summer. One of these is made of bright red cloth, closed haif way down the front and opening to show the shirt cr blouse beneath. The collar is small, bat close fitting, and the sleeves have an almost imperceptible fullness at the shoulder. It comes down to within a couple of inches of the waist, and is slashed up on the side seams. The only trimming is the narrow gold braidinz which borders it all round and 18 carried around the double row of brass buttons which adorn the side seams and the cuffs. Many of the newest blouse vests are also made open in fronrt, so as toshow a chemi- sette, the belt being fastened over the two. An elegant white serge costume 1s thus made. It hasa frilled chemisette of brown taffeta showing in front, the belt being of the same material. Straps of white mohair braid, with pearl buttons at their extremities, trim the skirt, basques | and fronts of the blouse and the shaped epaulettes. ‘We are going to wear spangles again, both in jet and colors, although the for- mer will be especially fashionable, Jet bands in spangles and colored jewels are very effective, und jet edgings and pas- sementeries will' appear on many cos- tumes. Steel and jet in combination is one of the new garnitures and blouse fronts of black net, embroidered in jet and colors, will also be much worn. Silk is to be the material this coming fall, black heading the list in popular favor, while black fancy silks are coming prominently to the front. These latter will be in en- tirely new patterns, the floral and foliage effects being now considered a little out of date. The combination of jet and steel on these silks cannot fail to be productive of good results as far as effect is concerned. The popular styles for early fall cos- tumes will be the blouse vest, with a basque beited around the waist, and the short-fitted jacket. Among the lattar are to be found some open in fronf, with rounded basques and broad collar contin- ued in lapels, a triangular notch being cut out to divide the two. Others, also open 1n front, have no lapels, but curve gently up to finish in a high coliar. Both in texture and construction the new fashions are decidedly more becoming than for some time past. Soft plaitings, draperies and folds are the orcer of the day and the variety of material is endless. The colors also are much more foitand harmonious, the neutral tints being greatly in favor, the brighter tints being merely employed to relieve what migat otherwise be dullness of effect. The new yoke skirt was emploved ina strikingly original way in a cosiume that Isaw recently. The body of the skirt was in silver-gray cashmere, un pleated. The blouse cuirasse, with shoulder-siraps and shaped busque-band coming down over the yoke of the skirt, was of gray velvet, elaborately embroidered with steel beads and spangles. The yoke of the blouse was of gray pleated velvet, and the sleeves were of the cashmere and small leg-of- mutton in shape. The neckband and waistband were of smoke-colored gray velvet, the entire costume being thus of unrelieved gray, the glistening steel of the embroidery forming the only bright touch. CYNTHIA. Sombrero. The boss hat for children. Ask your hatter or milliner for it. - Butter Made on a Streetcar. The dame owners of cows in the vicinity of the packing-houses, when the cream is ripe, set the churn en the front end of a car. One round trip and ‘churnin’s done,” the motorman taking the butter- milk as an equivalent for the mechanical agi ation imparted.—Wichita Eagie. —————————— The Music of the Morn. DEDICATED TO ESTELLE BAKER. What time the lark, in transport, sway, And fills the ambient air with duleet song, *Tis then I'd roam the verdant fields among Ere the worid wakes to iife the sterner day. What music of the cities coid and gray Can vie with Nature’s songsters strong, Near where & shimmering stream!et steals along, And tinkles forth a treble on its way? The gentle mornu-wind lulls the soul to rest, Forgetful, for the nonce, of struggling days, And there might e to Nature’s joys attest— Yield to her wiles and listen to her lays As irom the nodding reeds, in brake near by, Comes piping, shrill, a Pandean melody. H. MATHIAS, HOUSE PLANTS AND MALARIA. The Disease Said to Have Been Traced to Potted Plants. Just aiter the Christmas holidays Dr. Taylor was called at Sag Harbor to a woman 82 years old, wko had some paroxysms of fever with gastric disturb- ance, and at her suggestion that it might be malaria found the Lavaran plasmodium. This was remarkable in view of the facts that the ground was covered deeply with snow, the patient had not been from home for four years, the well water could not have been contaminated, and all pouds were frozen. Soon a daughter had similar symptoms. There were some potted plants in the house, and he was unable to make any definite impression upon the disease until these had been removed. At the same season a third case devel- oped in another house in which a trapdoor led into a cellar whose walis were covered continuously with mold. In still another house some weeks later, in the same town, malaria with the plasmodium of tertiary fever developed in a child, and no appar- ent cause could be found except the potted plants in the room occupied by the pa- tient. ‘When these were removed he was able to cure the disease. He then went to some florists in Iccalities where there were no marshes, and where they were not likely to be infected by the water supply, and in- quired their history and made blood ex- aminations. He found in four different localities that the blood of these people contained the malarial vlasmodium. These florists were not ill, but they were bardly ever quite well, complaining of di- gestive trouble, headache and indefinite symptoms. They could be straightened up temporarily by big doses of qninine. Dr. Taylor then gave his personal expe- rience when in Charleston. e took pre- cautions about the drinking water to avoid filaria sanguinis hominis, and when he rode out he ook the precaution to re- turn early before the misis rose from the marshes.. During this time he kept well, but later, not having lime to ride until rather latein the evening, hs contracted pernicious intermittent fever. He could then find the malarial plasmodium in his blood. From 1870 to 1883 he resided in the mountains of Colo ado, and saw what he supposed had been called mountain fever, but all the cases which he saw were teriian intermitient fever. A German writer had spoken of a simi- lar fever developing in the mountairons regions of Russia, at the time of the melt- ing of the snow. This was in harmony with what had been seen in Colorado. But at Sag Harvor ihe snow was not melting and the region was not moun- tainous. There was no bad water to ex- plain the malaria and the presence of the malarial body in the blocd. These facts would seem to point to something emanat. ing from the plants, or rather irom the earth itself, as one of the surest means of intection. Yet the water theory should also be porne in mind. Some ob:erva- tions relating to the water system of Sag Harbor durlng one period pointed in this direction, but in the cases relaled above the water was not obtained from that sys- tem. Dr. R. C. Newton had little doubt that The Rosy Freshness And a velvety softness of the skin is inva- singing Tiably obtained by those who use POZZONI’S There ure fifty-iive dogs in the United Kingdom to every 1000 inbabitants. |Complexion Powder. holdeth | he examined the biood and | the potted plants were the cause of the malarial infecticn as mentioned in the paper. He could give some experionce | which would seem to confirm tbat view. He had a friend who was a florist, and while generally in good health he had to guard aeainst taking “‘colds,” which he could cure by gninine.—Meadical Record. —————— Evgineer Kept His Word. Two freight engines collided near Whit- lock last week. Both were pretty badly damaged, and one engineer was fired for carelessness and disobedience of orders. The funniest thing about _the matter was the answer of the disobedient engineer to the other, who asked, “Didn’t vou have orders to meet me_at Whitlock?” “Well, d——n it, hain’t I met you?” said the erigineer who caused the head-on collision. Murray, Ky., Ledger. NEW TO-DAY. [0 CCO000CIO0C0000CIO0000000) Removal Carpet Sale is now on. Every week sees genuine reductions in the prices of our entire stock of cur- tains and floor cov+ erings. | SPECIAL | RLG PRICES. The market's | best rug quai- tiesand varieties Patlosien's 0000000000 0000CH | | | OO ©® Rugs are growing more and more in favor for floor coverings. They can be taken up, dusted and replaced with only. the slightest trouble. They can be used in any room with the happiest results. 000000 Tmported Berlin Axminster Rugs In10different patterns, 8x1034. floral and Turkish d-signs, $15 40. Really law priced at $18. For $19 65 larger rugs, 9x15 feet, are fine bargains. Downtown dealers ask 2 50 and B 20700 we vre seiling rugs 10x13 f-et that all other deslers are selling for $35 and $40. Best Grade Kelim Smyrna Rugs, Both sides alike and without fringe, 910 feet. Regular price is $17 50. Our 9x12 Kelim Smytna Rugs we sel! for $15 50. These identi-al rugs are sold all over town for $19. Pest Moguette Rugs, We have 500 of these, 3x6 feet, to be sola for $3 25 e 17x5, for $2 10 each 500 smailerone: we fill mail orders promptly and satls- 1mctorily. Pattosien’s, Sixteenth and Valencia Streets I5IC0.0.0 0 00TICO0 0000000000000 SUPERFLUOUS HAIR ON THE FEMALE FACE, On men’s cheeks above the beard Jine. moles, warts, biackheads, red noses, freckles and ali facial blem- ishes permanently and_paiotessiy & destroved by the E. STRIC .; NEEDLE OPERATION. Senq " stamp for our free book. THE & CHICAGO ELECTROLYSIS CO., 618 Parrott B'iding, Sau Francisco. Hours, 9 Lo 4; Sundays, 10 to 1. CRAY C.000000I000 0000 0000000000000 00IO0! | | | | AT TR BT TR Don'i stain Absolutely harmiess. cgists. Ketail agents. t drus MACY, 953 Murket st. Wholesale AN GTEY e Sl AELS; C TON & CO. [ASHS - BITTERS moves dandeufl and sealp disease. {overs BALD spits. skin.. AIDNEY aND UvER