The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 15, 1897, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALlL, SUNDAY, AUGUST 15, 1897. 27 We may as well make up our minds to tles are coming inte vogue again! rse we shall flatly refuse to go back be monsirosity of a few years ago; it I be a modern bustle that will answer Dame Fashion’s call at the present stage of the game. There is a new style of bus- tle that is made in sections. The hip vieces are cutand padded to fit the nat- ural fig And these up-to-date aftairs are designed to go under instead of over the corset, which means in turn that there mu t be modern corsets constructed, with justable hip pieces. In short, touse the isfied remark of a critical New York niodiste, *‘the bustle which we are going to wear now will be just sufficient to give an artistic effect and keep the skirt from ing in the back’—which may the gods bring to p wi d blouse is to be much worn te summer season. One dressy occasions is of white for made cashmere, to be worn over a skirt of the The coat part has long inser- uipure lace, deep cream in color, intervals all round, and lined pale-green glace silk which shows the same. in front is a pre:ty lace jabot a-green chiffon. Then there is a e of long tabs all finished with lines e insertion. The belt is of green dded with small single Parisian dia- monds. Lace insertion is very widely used in rious ways, and now appears on skirts as well as boaices, and on siik and woolen £00ds as well as the lighter fabrics. When used on skirts the lace is let into the aterial in waved insertions from hem to aist, or else is used as the heaaingota For bodice decoration the inser- in lengthwise stripes down center of a waist, and as a scroll on Insertions an in ated into scrolls bows and on muslins, while lace braid treated he same w. makes most effective | is used cently seen had the yoke strined with lace, and the sleeves, which were close fitting, were made entirely of lace. Thiswould seem to be coming into general use, as I have seen quite a number of late. There is no question but that the bal loon and even the leg of mutton sleeves will fade away. Flat sleeves are unques- tionably coming into fashion. A modiste just from Paris told me a day or two ago that the /atest creations of the best dress- ers over there show scarcely any full- ness atall in the shoulders of the dresses. | Therefore, it is not too much to say that another season will see us practically back | to the old style of tight sleeves. Justat vresent the most popular sleeve is that | which has a little globular puffing at the top and is plain from there to the wrist. | This puffing may be provided by the | sleeve itsell, or by sn additional piece | forming a short extra sleeve. Another ay is to have it plain, except for a few | pleats set in the shoulder, which style | may bhave an epaulette or not as one | pleases. Still another style is cut and | pleated 0 as to give the effect of a double | puff across the top of the arm, sometimes very little fullness being used, and some- times a good deal, the sleeve itself being loose above the elbow. AlL the sleeves mentioned may beina | single piece, though those with a circular | puffing are generally cut in two. Sleeves | ng tucks across or gathered | gthwise in tiny pulfs and mounted on | fitting linings are very fashionable | just now, as they suit thin fabrics particu- | larly well, but there is a decided tendency to prefer plainer formsin the very latest productio Dressmakers continue to cut sieeves fully long, but the points com- | ing down over the Lands are notsezn so frequently as of late. Lace ruffles, how- | ever, cot ling a portion of the hand, are seen on most of ihe smart tollettes. A very small minority of garden party cos- tumes worn on different occasions lately have elbow- rather wide aud finished with deep lace ruflles, but this sort of sleeve is ally reserved for house dresses and teagowns. I might add, too, that many low evening dresses bave quite long sleeves. Jacket and coat sleeves will, of course, be diminished in width as dress sleeves grow smaller, but (o accommodate the inside sleeve a certailn amount of breadth at the top is necessary. There- in gene The collar has stmilar deeora- | 4 <kin, with a buckle of green enamel | wide are | A very handsome bodice re- | | attention being paid to their linings. These are often of chiffon, ruched or puffed or kilted, finished at the edge with lace frillings or bouillones. One notable specimen of French manuiacture has been | arranged not only with chiffon, but with 1 roses and butterflies hovering over it | The handlesare of ¢ourse very handsome | and bear the owner s monogramin jewels. hat has made its appearance. It is of medium size, made of soft rose-colored | site tulle over a wire shape, the tulle rather pale 1n tint and put on very full. ‘fhe front and topoi the hat isentirely covered with a huge poppy of silk, in | shaded pink. It is finished at the back, which is turned up a little, with an artistic black velvet ribbon bow with a large ana very elaborate cut steel buckle. | It seems very odd to think of wearing | white silk stockings for other than cven- ing wear, but I am told that that is what we are coming to, and whoever else ob- jects the laundress certainly will not. Clocks, too—that I should live to state 1t! —are again 1n favor. The designs are much more elaborate than those we used to wear, and they are to be bad in white | and colors on black, and also in combina- | tions of colors. Ribbed effects in black, | alternated with colors, and in some cases | combined with embroidery, are also to be had. But some of the new hosiery is | lovely, Scotch plaids 1n lisle and silk | mixtures being especially attractive, [Then there are some with wide silk stripes with small sprigs, flowers ana other devices between the stripes. Plain | boot patterns with artistically combined | colors for the uppers are also very desir- able. Another of the new patterns shows medallions filled with flowers embroidered all over the stocking, boot as welles leg. CYNTHIA. Limited Allowances. We read now | to dress on $50,000 a year. However, they are exceptional cases, and to-day I am dealing with the subject of average allow- ances, on which women way that they can go out soc | feeling annoyed with their appearance, for even the sweetest-tempered woman is | affccted by an unbecoming, badly cut gar- ment. course that every one must own a tallor | gown, and these vary greatly in price. | For example, if the allowance is very | small the 1ailor may have to do dress A truly novel as well as very charming | | and then of women who | declare that they find it quite impossible | ss in such a iy without | It has become almost a matter of | matched. Alas, that we all cannot efford such table cioths! However, thought will enable us always to have daintily pretty tables, as here flowers are plentiful all the year long, ana how won- derful is the effect of a great bowl of fresh blossoms | Fanc;—Wor’k.. The old Frencizx work about which we read a great deal is done on satin sheet- ing and is, therefore, suitable for cushion- covers, screens and chairbacks. Lovely was the result obtained by working a bold spray of orange and other leaves in their natural colors on a backeround of rather coarse linen. The silks were shaded per- | tectly. | For linen embroideries the mimo<a and | crocus designs are in great demand and cool colorings, such as shades of yellow and willow-green, are liked, although, to | be sure, they do not harmonize with | everything. Useful and pretty is a linen-covered a little | | & possibility a really beautiful quality of | duty as a calling costume, and if such is the case have the clo:h as handsome as possible, and only employ the best tailor to make it up, unless your figure is unus- ually good, for short, stout, short-waisted women cannot afford to patronize any but the best. However, if a calling toilette is black silk will prove most satisfactory, as | it meets so many demands. For example, have two Frenchy bodices, also of the sume silk, as colored waists are not liked by many for Visiting purposes. These arc | now made attractive with chiffon-lace in- | sertions, and for evening & dressy low-cut | bodice of black and white will be chic. | Blue and biack are likewise very stylish now. | i | The present beautiful gauzes, nets, chiffons and mousseline de soies seem especially well adapted for *‘the doing over” of last winter's evening frocks, and | really they will be quite charming if an adcquate amount of taste is expended on them. Still it 1s imperative that you should | bave a fresh dinner-gown each winter, | and from what I hear the greatest amount | of wear and satisfaction may be obtained by the purchase of a really exquisitely tine piece of crepe de chine, for if light in | shade it may be depended upon to clean | perfectly, and later, if you are so disposed, it will dye beautifully. Guipure lace and the most delicate emburoideries are used in | such confections, and glace silk or satin | always nowadays forms their foundations. A word of advice, if you must save do | not attempt 0 do without proper gloves, | shoes or a new hat, for these at once stamp | you as shabby it not quite perfect in their | way, and, sad to state, hats and bonnets will be more costly than ever this winter, and this reminds me of the fact that some | of the most fashionable women invariably | first secure their chupeaux before deciding | on the fabrics for their winter gowns, and | fore the new coats and jackets which we | a very excellent idea this is I assure you, will begin to think of presently will con- | for if you are hard to suit you should not tinue to be mounted in pleats, though | hesitate to secure a becoming hat any shallow and reduced in number. Haung- ing sleeves, reaching to the elbow, will be adapted to some of the more fanciful jackets. A genuine novelty in gloves is a novelty indeed, but here is one. They consist of white, black or cream suede fas- tening with four ltuttons on the suede portion and scalloped at the edges. But to the kid are attached arm- lets beautifully embroidered in silk cord net, the designs being applique butterflies in the kid ornamentally outlined with the cord. The net is worked as a scallop at the top and drawn in to the size of the arm with a satin ribbon. The black dis- plays cream embroidery, and they are most ornamental. The junction of the net and the kid is defined with a silk cable repeated on the back of the hand, and an additional button to fssten the wrist is introduced on the lace. A strikingly original use of the em- broidered vest made the success of a biscuit-colored linen gown I saw the other day. The skirt was wrought round the hem with tall tapering sprays of white braiding and cording, the material being sufficiently beavy to hang well and to shiow the embroidery to good advantage. A short tight-fitting coat was drawn down closely into the waist at the back and also braided and corded with white. The coat “opened slightly in front and bhad wide revers, one faced with tucked white mus- lin and narrow Valenciennes, the other braided ana corded with white. Then there was a chemisette of finely tucked white silk muslin and and & vest which reslly, so to speak, made tbe costume, This was of fine rea cloth richly embroid- ered in Oriental tashion in sliver and gold, blue and yellow. It fitted the figure tightly and was drawn down under a folded waistband of black satin ribbon. The contrast in color and style between the vest and the rest of the gown com- bined to make a most effective whole. The parasols this sesson are more ela- time you may be so lucky as to find one | and have your dresses modeled to suit it, as more toilettes are ruined by the addi- | tion of hideous and unbecoming headgear | than in any other way I know, and being | observant 1 can assert that few are the | women who are in the least competent to | select their own chapeaux. Indeed, I be- | lieve the old saying that an absolutely plain woman can easily rival her sister, who is beautiful, if she thoroughly under- stands her good and bad points and knows how to dress and her sister does not, but graciously deliver me from the woman who spends hours daily before her mirror and who tries on every hat in town before she can be suited. The autumn goods will soon be here, but unless your pocketbook is well sup- plied be slow itn making selections until the winter stock is bere. Purchasestylish but conservative things, as novelties are luxuries. There 1s & rumor that jaunty velvet jackets, somber in hue, will be much liked with cloth and silk skirts for teas and afternoon receptions. Their col- lars and revers are to be embroidered with gold, silver or jet, but these are only suit- able for those wno have extensive ward- robes and can make many changes, as only the handsomest of velvet can be used in their composition, so we will see more frequently smart cloth jackets that can be put to many uses. Table Cloths. Guipure table strips are to continue to adoru many elaborate luncheon and din- ner tables, and we hear of the most art- istic table cloths that are now richly in- crusted with renaissance, Venice or cherry laces over colored silks in harmony with the flowers that decorate the table, and the silk, generally of taffeta, can readily be changed. Remarked by all the guests was the beauty of a dinner table. Yellow silk gleamed, and the cloth were of point deVenise, Large cut-glass bowls of Mare- chal Niel roses were placed here and there. The golden candelabra held yellow can- well now prefer to have their corsets match their petticoats, and certainly the results are usually delightful; but when this cannot be afforded their corsets are made of satin tbhat will match tne prin- cipal color by the silk or brocade selectsd for the petticoat. TEven a three-yard length of rich silk or brocade will be sufficient to make one ot the irtsort of hittle coat bodices a la | Louis X VI, provided the sleeves and vest are all made of frilis of lace beaded with black velvet ribbons. If you see a rem- naat of three or so yards of sash ribbon do not pass it by, for irom it may be made a draped bodice, as only two or three widths need encircle the figure, the sleeves and chemisette being of lace or mousseline de soie, and remarkably well will this style suit a tall and slender figure. Ribbon sashes are now only worn by those who do not realize the charm of those composed of muslin or chiffon now so much in vogue, and more to the point is the assurance that sashes of light and A SUGGESTION FOR AN AUGUST COSTUME. of rather narrow Mechlin lace. The bodiee of the mousseline had the appearance of consisting of two small jackets, each of which was bordered with lace of the same width as that employed on the skirt; these opened over a waistcoat of mauve mousseline, across which ran many inser- tions of Mechlin. The foundation of tke waistcoat was white glace. The long sleeves were closely shirred and thickly encrusted with lace. The waistband and neckband were of mesuve vsivet, softly folded. A truly beautiful dress. Potpourri. Many of us have experimented with rose leaves and other fragrant petals more or less successfully. However, but few have neard the following recipe for pot- pourri which says: Put into a large earth- enware jar with a cover alternate layers of cabbage rose petals and other sweet- scented roses and lay on common salt. This process may be continued for months, but when you have a goodly quantily squeeze the leaves as dry as you canin your hands ani add the following: Three-quarters of a pound of common dry powdered salt, three ounces of storax, two ounces of benzoin, two ounces of orris root, two ounces of allspice, two drams of bergamot, two drams of oil of cassia. two drams of ol of lavender, a quarter ofa pound of broken-up cloves and sun-dried lemon peel. Mix the spices first, and afterward add the scents. Mix well ana keep in the covered jar for several days, frequently stirring; then the potpourri is ready. Jessamine flowers, violets, orange flowers, lavender and myrtle petals may be added to the rose leaves, as the flowers | blotter of the darkest shade of peacock | blue, worked with a sort of lattice formed of slightly wavy lines and interlacing circles of goid thiead. In the interstices are quaint four-branched patterns carried out in blue, others in fraise. Our Summer Sales Are sore temptations, and are coaxing many a dollar from our pockets, for they really are of superior excellence this year; in fact, I have never known them to be quite sa good. For example, if you se- cure a twelve-yard remnant of silk a dress can be evolved from it, as first an ample skirt can be cut from it, and then if you are rather tall you may only have suffi- cient for a swathed description, but it will be charmingly pretty if properiy made. Remnants of five yards naturally suz- zest the blouse or bodice. Some use two short lengths that harmonize for petti- coats, but I do not favor such combina- gauzy fabrics will continue to be the style all next winter, as for debutantes they are especially lovely and take about four yards of material. The expensive organdies now selling so cheaply are all wise purchases, as really, when done up by a first-class laundry, they can be washed several times and yet be charmingly pretty. However, you must ve sure to get this season’s patterns, | as those of '96 look old fashioned. But enough has been said concerning the in- teresting remnant, for 1 now wish 10 tell you about The Frocks Worn at a Recent Garden Party, One of the most fetching was of that shade of blue mousseline de soie with which a certain mauve goes most ex- quisitely. It was built over blue giace silk, and consisted of two skirts, the up- per one being cut in deep vandykes, and borete thun for some time past, special | dles |h;dyd with silken shades that)iions, Indeed, those Who dress seally | whowp were edged With $WO RAITOW Zows A are and will be found a decided improve- ment. Be careful to remove every leaf and stem. The above quantity of spices are from four pounds to six pounds of rose petals when squeezed. The New Variety of Pique. ‘We all, while admitting the undoubted style of many a pique costume, have been annoyed at the manner in which our gowns have become creased, even if sat down upon but once or twice. Such dresses have b2en so much the vogue this year in Paris that the manufacturers have at last given heed to fashion’s mandate, and as a result a new soft pique has at last reached New York, and is described as being as soft as twill sheeting. This lends itself to very simple treatmeat, but the best are tailor made. The pique should in all cases be thoroughly shrunk before being made up, as a considerable shrink- age will take place. P.que skirts rival those of duck, that 1s to say, those of ordi- nary duck, when of linen-duck. that is THE LATEST BICYCLE COSTUME This novel creation of the dressmakers’ art is so arranged that it can be used elther for a riding or dinner costume. When worn on the wheel the front is closed and plain in cut, but is capable of being turned back so as to show embroidered lapels and fancy front. “FAUST" LOST HIS OLOTHES, And the Orchestra Piayed Time an Hour Before the Attire Was Found. The “Faust”’ performance at the Schil- ler Theater was nearly an hour late in beginning last night. The tenor’s clothes had failed to arrive. Each five minutes after a quarter past 8 brought increased demonstrations of impatience on the part of the audience. The orchestra occupied its time in send- ing special envoys to the scene of action, which was as asual, back of the stage. They came back shaking their heads, When the minute hand was on the up- grade to 9 and a thud of feet was maki stage thunder in the balcony, the man- ager came out in iront of the curtain. Then it was the audience knew Mr. | cheers. But the moments grew and grew. Some one had reckoned wrongly. An ordinary man can get into evening clothes in a pretty brief time. But there are mysteries about Faust’s gala attire that are not so readily solved. The min- utes grew, and to did the impatience of tke audience. Meanwhile Mr. Delemotto struggled witn finery that would get on the wrong portion of his anatomy instead of the right one. The orchestra, to help out things a bit, playea the prelude, and still the curtain iailed to rise. At last, five minutes before 9, the cur- tain went up, and Faust, somewhat breathless, but in full possession of his wardrobe, which had gone astray between Milwaukee and Chicago, came smiling and perspiring on the scene.—Chicago Tribune. Delemotto, the new tenor, had been wait- | TR e RS ing for his clothes, which as tbe manager | cheerfully put if, had at last arrived, The annual loss of value in gold coins by wear and tear while in circulation has *and he’s dressing as fast as he can.” The encouraging news was greeted with | been found to amountto £400 in every million pounds. QNOM NN For CORRECT $Zfl po0" ANSWERS! Most Unique Contest of the Age—$200.00 Paid for Correct Lists Made by Supplying Missing Letters in Places of Dashes—No Lottery—Popular Plan of Education—Read All the Particulars. In the United States four times ns much mouey Is expended for education as for the military. Brain 15 better than brawn. By oureducationa! iacilities we have become a great Natfon. We, the publishers of Woman’s World and Jenness Miller Monthly, have dose much toward the cause of elucatio « in wany ways. but ow we offer you &n opportuhity to display your knowledge and rec ive most generous payment fora little study. The object of this contest Is (o give an impe us 10 many dormant minds to Awaken and think; also we expect by this competition of brains to ex:end the circulation of Woman's World and Jenness Miller Monthly 10 such a siza that we shall be avie 10 charge double the present rate for adveriisin: in our columns. By this Plan of increasing the number of subscriptions and recelving more money from advertisers of $10ps, pianos, m-d:cine , books, baking powders, jewelry, eic., we shail add 50,000 a year (0 our income, and wit: this mathematical deduction before us, we have declded Lo cperate this most remarkable *missing le:ters’’ contest. HERE'S WHAT YOU ARE T0 DO. There are thirty words in this schedule, from each of which letters have been omitted, nd ihelr places have been supplied by dashes. 1o filin the blank spaces and go- the names prop. erly you must bave some knowledge of geogruphy and history. We want you to spell outas words &5 you can, then send tous with 25 cents (o pav for a three months' subscription to For correct lists we shall give $200.00 In cash. 1f more than one per- ded to the fifty best ilsts in appearance. Also, 1f vo shall send you & feautiful Egeria Diamond El price of which is $2.25. Therefore, by sending Sour list, yon are positively certain of the $3 25 piizs, and by being careful to send a correct Iist you have an opportunity of the $200.00 cash :ward. The distance tha:you may live from New Yor« makes no difference, All have equal opjortunity for winning. PRIZES WILL BE SENT PROMPTLY. Prizes will be honestly awarded and promptly sent. We publ'sh the list of words to be studied out. In making your list of answers, be sure to give the number of each word: .-RA-1- [16. B~ 8 M - - K 4 notea ruter. N'S WORLD. son sends a full correct I's., the money will be aw. your list contains twenty OF more correct words, rf Pin (for iady or gentleman), the regular A country of South g An‘,(!yflcl‘f. = | -M-D--E--A-E--4ue 18 P-R-U-A G ..M__ T-A-- S--AN-A- A- ST-A- |- Avig setana. M = I " = E 5 §':’o":§f\n‘é§z‘f&.:‘&".'§ T e A =~ One of the United Stat J-F--R-- Noutaistie = Alargeriver. 19. Well-known river of Europe. | 20. Acity in oneof the | Sou'horn States. | 21+ 122, A city of Canada. for displey of | 3 N— A_ A_ A Moo water. 23. - u' = N A large lake. 9. 'E_'E__ —Oneoitl:'%}?nmd‘z‘t' E'E' S' " Anoted poet. 2 c th H it A A foreign country, same 10. = A -RI- say of Sprin . size as Kansas, 11 H 3 v El Bl o?sf-fi}l'“o" | 26. B S R o 0 Alarge island, A well-k 1a 12. §-M-E- * 6O ditn | 27 Greatest fortifica- G" % R"L' = tion in the world. | S-A-LE- agreatexpiorer. |29 Ono of the Uni- | ted States. | 30- 13. 128, 14. 15.6-L-F---1- In sending your list of words mention whether you want your prize money §en by banis araft, money order or registered mail: we will send any way that Wwinners require. The Egeria Diamond 1s a nerfect imitation of & Real Diamond of iarge size. We defy experty to ulsiin- Ot tom ) eal excapt by microscopic (st In every respect It aerves tue purpoie of tien uine Diamosd of Purest Quality. I isaitsticaly mounted in & fie <old-plated pin, warranted to A ever. This piece of jwelry will make a most desirab'e gift toa fri2nd 12 you do not need i Vourself -t present onr suppls of t iese sifts is limited, and if they are wl gone when your set of Toswers comesim we shall send you -~2,25 in money iusiead of the Scart or Shawl kin, 0 you ahall ither ro-eiv the pece of j -welry or tne equivalent in cash, In aadiiion to your parici- bative interes: inthe #200.00cash prize. This entire offer is‘an honest one, made by a Pesponsible pubiishing bois>. we refer t mercantile agencies andany b ink in New §ork-: @ will sromptly refind moiey 10 ¥0a :f you ace dissatistied. Whacmore can we do? Now study ana exchange allght brain work for cash. With your i1, of aniwery aend 25 ‘cents (o pay for lhree B anthe’ subscription 1o our great family magazine, Woma 1's World. If you have siready v abed, mention that fac’ in » 0¥ ieter, ani we w Il extend your subscripilon from the time the Drosent oné expires. To avoid loss ia sending silver, wrap money very carefully in paper before in- ciosing In your letter. Address Anisland near % Africa. JAMES H. PLUMMER, Publisher, 22 and 24 North Willlam Street (Departm-nt527), New York Ct SUPERFLUOUS HAIR ’ooooo-oooo'oo-o-o N. Y. ON THE FEMALE FACE, AN EXCEIJLENT On men’s cheek~ above the beard line. moles, warts, biackheads, red noses, freckles and ali tacial blem- Properly prepared and promptly served, can always be obtained in ishes permancotly and p: '"'F;’;'{; » THE GRILL ROOM OF THE destroved by _the ELL: Decidedly the PALACE stamp for our free book. THE CHICAGO ELECTROLYSIS CO, 613 Parrott B'lding, San Francisco. Hours, 9 to 4; Sundays, 10 to 1. CRAY or FADED HATR RESTORED to NEEDLE OPEKATION. Send © . southful col Jeughral color and beauty by D. | Most Popular quite a diffexent atory, MABCELLA, AVS' HATR HEALIH. o8 moves dndruff_and scalp i jseass Ton st | Dining Apart- skin. Covers BALD sp)ts. Absoiutely harmless. | ment in fown. SR ARG T M AR ety WholoseMACK & o IANGLEY & Mok |O-0-0-0-0-0-0-0-0-0-0-0-0 AELS; COFFIN, REDINGTON & CO, e e e e e W i