The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 1, 1897, Page 27

THE SAN FRA NCISCO - CALL If-any oneé'wants any proof, that this i is ar'af econdmy thiey should see the new o t that was shoiwii for me the other, 1y change in the acttial mukmg of the rcket it-can be " arranged in ‘seven differ: kol'it—(hose-'of yeu .who':have to the 'same jacket just_exécdy :liks- having seven inene; This ‘useful.gArment is of ' medium length; semi-fitiing at” the” back;. with & leat caught doWwn by a strap and buttons at the waist, ard loose in front. ‘It can be WOrn‘as'a p!mn double-breasted coat, and u this.shape fornis a capital wrap. ‘These transforaiations are effected by the regu- ation:of the revers to different haights by means of straps or buttons, or they can be rown. open-:and worii - loose. By an- other’ arrangement the revers can be | folded and . strapped -at the top soas to form a (rimming to the front of the coat. | \vsm, they can be left open and the | traps fastened acrass the front so as to | reveal the vest or blouse worn benesth. The puffed sléeves are finished with | ep. cuffs, which, by the same device of | raps nnd buttons, ‘can ‘be worn open or | osed,’turned back or straigh The col- ar is-similarly adjustable a uiade high, ‘turned -down- or .1 forming "an admirable finisi In- plain cloth kes an . ideal traw revers. can: be either. !'mmad or un- trimmied, and wien finished with- hand- | e passementerie rendor ths garment smartienouch ‘for visitinig ‘and -afternoon ear. | Lastly, when 'made. insilk or vel- vet'and effectively. -lined and trimmed, it makes &n admirabie opera or theater n altogether it scems to me Tul novelty. of the season, for many seasons past. jackets either in novel -jacket wrap.: -The n fact, and: rea almost: every style and.mater t at prese 1orning:a juire the exact teuch which only:a clever nd'artistic dressmdker. can giva: to ren- der them aperfect success. Oneof these I saw was w with a.gray satin shot ani trimmed they are becoming to and can be adapted in 1o almost any occasion, they th an openwork of j&u etween; united by narrow:| effact.-was excellén:, if ppear.in:a. popularity this summer. sorts of guisés and ars ble uses.: The'latest is g inedeso’e, with sesh Ake ends falling - almast to the | hem .of rt. - A'very preity one, all wh le and " etabotately trimmed -with: real Valenciennss, was worn with ‘a_pals: lue:gown of mousazlinede soie hnished th'a white satin. &qliatr; also style,:a/s0 trimwmed swith Valenciennes, keing- espeeially: beautiful and;: I mlghv. add, derighifully-expensive. There :seem& 1o be no.:doubt that the Victorian. bonnet isro-bethe head cover- vz of the mnear fufire, and reslly, when ot éxdggerated i stylé and irimming, it 1ocks ‘both’ quaint and-pretty.: One very. pretty White leghorn which .Lisaw quite WOn.me -over: to the iiéa, The Haring front--was’ covered - with “thickly ‘shirted wiite chiffon; made to give the effect of:a i puosid taythetirim, With three. nall y ro-g5-on: éach ‘side of the ban- au résting of the' hiair, "The ¢rown was trimmied with® ewo-fojded straps of: ¥ery wide white ribbon;. coming ‘across the. front-and back.of the’¢rown and finishing. at the right sile with -another - rosette of tiireé rosés. to -mialdh thase ‘warn -inside the brim. On'the left side was: a sniart bow of the wide ribbon, tire lohps-daiinled over somes what. ani- wel ired..: Ou-tue®ame gide were. two y fullwhite ostrich pltimes, onestanting up. quite bigh-in front and the othér falling oyer -the back-qf. the The strings—for what-wonld & bon- r.e1 ke without str ofthé same. white Tilibon, and were- irifended to - be tied vnder tiie chin-a iittle to'one.side. Tiie: day. of tlie ¥« formiess *‘gos: samer’ is ovér, and: the Waterproof gar- ments of the:present season are a delight to'the eye as well as'a protection: from.the elements, : Kven‘the simplest of those up. Yo-date. rainy -d&y- wraps is both stytish and beeoniing, while the moie elaborate | ones. are -reafly .beautiful.- One of the:| simpler ones Jooks like gray tueed; with a littie colldT of ‘aréenivelvet. THe cape hay | brim. iurned. back. fevers,. fastened iwith pretty | and ‘when" necessary the revers | bittons, can be buttonediacross,- which ‘makes: the zarinent double-breasted. Porbips ‘16 - piost striking. gxampleiof the adyafhce' in’:waterproofs is:a 'sack- mmed coat w!b double-breasted front elrl butlon«, and - having It looks Au;_—an much &¥stlky alpacs, and vossesses; the double’.advantage of being very-liglst i wm.gm anivery's art | in dp- vearanes.: T ie" Féem! ‘me.the mostdesirab: eneral s, but I 5w One:whigh b e was -exceedingl Tonig: e[mkm durk blu:, which:inside frimt was ‘sumpto- [ The ‘eape, The: ted- 3ackst hu -evidently come :{o' stay. and; ‘myore popul.r than thats it s ‘com sriabje: agiwell - as dressy i T these: fashionabile gauZe, “VInfs is| eV thaii *ehiffon, 1ky- prinfed -gossamyer:like of these gnrmemfl‘ fi¥e in gree gumz ml-k sash,’ @& abbed ‘basqus. and epau-’ lettes, Gireen: &nd 5 dre those of us who: can’ i :in pronounced ol . It'is ‘'so.‘constructed that without | styles—one fof every day of 'the week, | a:whols' season. | e ncnts are high in favor at press| are ‘worn. both. on.| i evening gowns, but'they re-| down: the front | e ¥ow ol Brandenburgs car- texiures are certainly at the| This ‘material’ 1seil: for the fichtis:I spoke: of, one} particglar; in. the. ‘Marie Antomgue*‘ -linings However, as-1 keep “talling you; ial utilized far| 511 ged in | i1 mucki time , andl iooluh flpemmun ol ¢ I bl she can, and another informs us that no woman is any older than she looks, so I { am certain the Puritan maiden spent q\me as much thought as most of her de- | scendants do to-day over her dainty ker- chief, her snowy cap and her frock of somber hue. Growing uld no longer means that the chic matron must give up bright colors or cease to observe the latest modes; on the contrary, more attention should be lav- ished on al! the minor details of the toilet, for she must not only keep pace with time, but must anticivate his ravages—and, sirange 1o say, the neck and wrists are the first usually ‘to show the .ap- proach of age; hence. the vogue s 1 Tussore Trimmed With Lace Her Exquisite G_own'When S She Is, the :Swellest of the Summer Girls afid Abovels'Shown in'the Very Latest, and. Pink Satin Ribbons, It Is'a Cloak of Silvery Its‘Raison-d’Etre Is the Protection of e Aitends the Racesor IsPerched on the Seat of a Four-in-Hand. of oranze-colorad silk oovm-:tl with hol- | land colored grass lawrn worked -all over with-sprays of lace braid; the pattern sul- | ficiently open to-allow ths silk to ;show through, It s & pouchel( boaice fastening on-the ‘left side ‘beneath a rea and yellow frilling in glace-silk, the ‘same | | mixture'being introduced -into tié stand- { ing colfar. It is intended for ont-of-door fetes, and on“the right - woman would be exceedingly effective. The:last days of stimmer are approach- ing; but if possibPe.the fashionable resorts are gaver than ever, and the gowns worn by.our “belles ana socisl Jleaders more fddinty’ and chic than ever. - Tiiere is. no.doubt that the light gowns of mousse- line de ‘soie, ¢hiffons and. musline made over silken foundations, from which they :ata entirelyseparate, are ‘the most fash- fonable of all. " Bome have even their sim- plg littl® mornife frocks made oversilk: | as well, ‘for the effect of silk lining js ngt i fally nlsprgclaled by thoie whe have never indulged 'in one; but_the fact that no -French tioise of standing ever sends out. a-dress not silk lined speaks volumes; and’, never &t any tinie have I ‘advordted- any substitute; indeed, it is far better:to i only two orthree gowns made OVer proper:! founddtions" than ‘a " dczen Gver PoOT .noisy, rustling silks havéfor a'lonig time Dbeen declared.bad form; tisé Soft:finished | ailks belrg correct: ‘A chéaisilk that feels: ike bmwn Wrapping paper. cannot; under sumdtances, be considersd. & good and;: speaking -of lbopnlng I wm w give'a word of advice. “To Shoppers. Do 6t : now, that so miany barg-m are & offered, forget certain. point in iubribs. u‘!mmmcs’or millinery, a8 they: | : l‘O sire to be useieis by next sedason, <D not lndnlu in a guantity 6! short lengths: 4 ny idea what you can.ase them: for.: One; -excellent anvver whom I know never s 0 the sules without a neat little ander s sample of “handsome black silk’ was the remark secure sufficient of. somé | ‘der & ‘orown ‘ogshmere, “purchase stylish: Ik ‘for- lining, etc.” By thus having ihe’ nmplo-, and baving' decided how- ach - frock -was-to be made she saves ‘besides ‘the -plain’ left-only sumcunt for'.a ply = because 80:.¢heéap without-having |7 many a.dollar, ¢ 1 know.a “young. woman whadeirly 1oves to visit the shopy, and is frequently sorely.témpted to-fiivest. Asa result, ‘at- the“beginning of .this summer | ~he had-two trunks full of “remnants, rep: resenting a very considerable-amount,:but not -a. sufficient’ guantity of anv ‘one or two together 10 make a dress.. Poor: little woman; “I"felt .sorry for. her; but Tam quite certain -that her.love for bargaing wiil never be cured, and’she Will continue to Took 'shabby; whilst her sister,’on hslf what she has to dress, &lways -looks well turned but. The. fite.. muslins, organdies and em- broideries:now obtainable can te bought, as thev'will always be useful, girls will for a. long .time to come wear them to hops or; informal dnnces over silken slips. 1t is all'very well.to pnrchnse largely-for the. néxt sammer. during the next few. weeks; provided' you have made a thor- ough:stidy of what arethe latest weaves, patterns, etc:, oth:rwiuo “you'will be thor- oughly aisgusted with. your. hnrxnins when you see thavlovely new goods next sprine ; 1ght’ materials -mentioned, satin’:‘cloth _is ""always " to -be derended upon.. A-short:length was util ized:this spring by a clever .woman; it -|-was of a'sofi snade of :gray, marked. down A skirt . of fashioriable cat ir of moderate sleeves, so a bolero-of gray: velvet that toned ‘in: per(ecxly with the .cloth “was eaged with & du[nly er -embroidery and-opened to:disclose “a full vest ofac- cordion-pleated white chiffon’ over gray silk; found the waist a biack taffeta rib- bon gave a Frenchy touch. A" large hat oné-third, : -of black yelyet with black ostrich plumes great ~deal -of thinking in mpor- “tion“fo"the.| amount of buying unless your money. is no consideration, for frequenuv & .dizearded ball dress will: perfecily Jine lininn costing from 75 cents _per-’_yard; . for we should that. to dress becomingly i -the. imperative duty of every woman who has tue wherewithal to do so, as you know my opinion of unadorned beauty. An old- ‘proverb -asserts that every .womad bas a right to look as young as -for young |’ of ' the great ‘ruches of chiffon by ‘mousseline” de soie and the boas: of |-ostrich-tips, for.they add soitened beauty to the ‘youthful face and conceal the too prominent . muscles and.-tendons in throats that are no. longer young. And many of our leading modlsteu insist on a touch of bright colorin every bonnet, as it will enhance the exquisite tints of a fair skin.and relieve a sallow tinge in all com: plexions. - Of course the color:must be se- lected with infinite care. - No -woman of France is considered to have reached the zenith of her.‘power and beauty until s e is married and well along in her thirties, and .then her society is more sought for than at:any otber time. As every young girl must have & chap- eron:upon all occasions the young' mar- ried woman is very much in evidence. 1t will avait but little if a-woman in addition. to having the best milliner and dressmaker obtainable ‘does -not. pay. especial attention . to the arrangement of ner hair, for soft waves will _belqtify any fice, and ‘additions to.one’s locks is a ‘simple and easy process nowadays, how- | ever, in ‘such cases.the color of ‘the hair must be ' very -carefully ‘watched, as it - varies ~greatly; in change ‘has to be . mads, ‘at - cer tain “stages, - every 8ix .months, ' for the idea “that_ a: bright chesinut brown bang .gives a youthful appearance when the rest of the hair is a dark brown streaked with gray isa mistaken ' one ad- hered to by not a few women, and.gray ir should .not be dreaded, so becoming it to'many, especially to thos hlflng al bnght color and dark eyes. Lovely .Models Oneé is of a gray cashmere, the bodlc. being in the form of the new closed po- lero. - It is trimmed with narfow bands-of gray velvet, outlined in a.-deeper shade ot some exquisite Leaded passementerie, The front of the bodice’is so fashioned as to allow of a fall of wide lace that half conceals the . creamy chemisette ‘and ‘waist ribbon. . The skirt is made with an insertion of the passementerie at the hem and a-shaped motif reaching from the waist to the feet. For calling, lunch- eons and garden parties thisis a perfect costume. Delightfully novel is a most simple crea- tion of the finest grade.of white India silk. The skirt has five overlapping ruffles of the silk accordion pleated. The bodice ismade of the silk, tnns;n{uuy fmuch trimmed skirts that:were expacted gauffered and striped with lace and inser- tion. The sleeves carry out the same idea, | but the ‘epan!ettes consist of three very narrow accordion-pleated rufftes. The wide- collar and waistband are of pink moire velvet softly folded. Litile earlike ruffles stick out on each side of the collar. - Thie dress may be varied by wearing waist and > neckbands of various becoming v_hnes, |:Joses € B. Perkin and under the insertions may:be intro- ';;\or;m!:::x;%m ks dacks duced -the same. For a-tall- slender 08, ) ;. Long; maid or matron (still young) this 18 in Chutier Jordrm Shee e Tarent an admirable style, as is likewise a milk Mrs: Ji H. Sivers, George J. and white sifk barege, made with a box- pleated bolero, overtucked chiffon and lace insertions. ‘This: has.a deep ruffls of lace at the back.that falls over a'collar-: band—and, by the by, have you. observed how mtch of the style of 2 gown depends| upon the coll and? This season it should almost reach to-the chin. 8 At Newport, for full dress day wear, pure white muslin 'and silk muslin, barege and canvas are in grest vogue, but the - Miss Guce Lu.venwor:h Jackson. Lacy; Miss:Dorot forne Jr’, Camp Meeker. - = - Reeent arrivals av-Camp Meekor inejude: T. § Bonneau ‘end wife, Swih Rafucl; Uyda W to be so generally. worn have not tak altogether. A floince about- six deep ‘at the lLem, hor zontal fui from the waist, a few gathered flounces on the. hips, are preferred to the double tunics or the ruffles from waist to hem. Many are the .muslins and thin materials that are worked all over with open:lace designs, frequentiy formed-by an applique of ‘lace braid, which shows the siik under- th. Numerous are the skirts so con- structed over rose pink, pale ‘blue, green and red, with slightly pouched bodices: The entire bedices of ecru lace, pouched - in front and fastened at. the" side, are much liked. They have simply a -high band and ruffled sleeves, and are’ worn over detached bodices of -white. for any color. In the same way may be used ihe jaunty little shoulder capes that may- be worn during the aay and evening. These | ate beltel and in turn overlaid with flounces of lace. ‘For some of them chme silk has been employed. IN'THE FUTURE EFR,cc:pfio'n and Dances to Be Held V- Duting August. The -Varsovienne - Fortnightty "Club : wilf eive. & confectionery’social mext!Ssturday evenivg,t Wells: liall, 1901 Post siree’, usar Fillmore, alparty -at, Hinman's. “Hall, Wednesdey evening; Augu't 4, - The - members “of the. Liah Cinb will bo’ld hall, Thursday evening; August:26. PERSONALS. At last sccomnts. Mrs. .B. W.. Paulsen-and | Miss-C. Lehnhardt jvere resting. from their ny- | merous trips in Constance, on _ the Bodern-See; Ppreparatory 10 a trip through Switzetland, muel Wyald, gecompanied by his daughs ter, Miss Ida W d, hasleft for Loudon; Eugs land, where Miss Wyald “will' complets. her me cases a i For a Garden Party Has been designed an unusual gowr of musical edug: Alameda; - ~The.Blue Ribban Cot! ll jon Club will holdits | b3 Coflpef 1€t ‘last week for Mos- , 0 attend the International Medi- :the: representative of the Cali- ‘ Association. -He. will - yisit lin and- FParis before his return, inegess: and. her. niecs, Miss ding & few ‘days at Hotel 1iks pissed through em {he Syrings-on their ik nrizker af Berkeley; accompanied nuhxes.dsuflfler Frorencs, left Mon= ( U ivedks, naneymoon . mre setled i their Arip -ac " lilue BientSERgF ibert e s A Pusta and Miss Lou Abtens are vis- JpG. Kieaim: et fiercoitage-tu Glen Lrs.. 1. ‘W0l {a6e Gotdsicin) have te- PpdEtieir Rowbery ot aud: Wil e £ iteuds this Suaday i o.15 vawmg the Tend] ng ¢al- cenmters, ASRL: Preseht, in . Tionry Goldsions ad. Mrs. Olcovieh will bé pidased: to receivs thei (Mends evers, first ¥ ieath montiial Lhelr residence, 1716 streel; iitlia Aterhen and family of 2412 Sacrimenrositeet 6o . 000upFiag A eotu - Kelleher hnye ielt 1St 10 $tie groat Shagia region, - mAking ir hendquusters at-Castie Crags and a8 Sprivgs. 5 [ré. A Lehraent and Missos. Hogaile, Mabisl a Labtecht, who have: BESy At Santa | Cru heye returned- 1o theirhome et Walnuc e iy is iy Pordand, Mrs; Kafka.: She Miss Carrie Meyer'of 11115 Golden Gate aves niué hes returned from her visiy 9 the Santa €ruz Mountaing, - M. and Mis; Leé S{arkes are located at 1937 O'Ferrell streat. ‘Al homme -évery Wednes in ench month! Mrs. M. A Motti, the papular wiolin soloist, d.member-of’ several amateur drehestras of wéek for - Cangds and n g ViSit 10 relatives anda deep-blue nun's veiling. Five lines of 3 shirring round. the hips, -a few. inches | ~—~r~rmrm below the waist, appear-to hold the skirt | in position. The tight sleeves are oddly draped at the top. The corselet-like blouse and collar tabs are elaborateiy em- | broidered with:white silk and bound very narrowly with biack satin, which forms the belt. Itis held together with & hand- somely enameled buckle. The yoke and batilemented epanlettes are of white lace of an excellent quality, over pale-blus silk, A Tailor Costume. There are always justa few Lundred of women:just about to order one’ and nat- urally they desire it to be as successful:as | possible, so let me tell. them about one of reseda-colored face cloth. The bodice al-'| though one garment. and perfectly tighit | DRY GOODS COMPANYI fitting; simulated ‘a’ zouave, beautifully hand-embroidered in black siik braid, but| lined with a thread of zold over a wal coat of biscuit-colored -cloth braided at the edges. Halt-inch biack braid, gold edge, 8180 trimmed cuffs and’ skirt in an | oad way design ‘declared to be. most be- .| coming to the figure. - 1" certainly should devise a. use of different colored cloths, but the zouave effect is good. | Hats. In Paris the hatsare being worn more and more ‘to one side, and while it is preity and coquettish Lo wear one's:hat a | little to-one side, it'is ridiculous to-wear a | !chapeau so that it réveals the left eye and all that side of -the head but.almost com- pletely conceals the right eye. An imported chapeau in Nice straw that would .appeal to mostof us has gaugings of tulle all'around the brim " inside, and-a | ruche of accordion-pleated talle around the-crown. - Five fine ostrich plumescom- plete it " For teas and evenlng wear: it is vredict- ed that capotes of face and jat will be in During sale -store will close at QR GREAT REMOVAL SALE WILL COMMEN¢E MONDAY, AUGUST 2 open atgmm -and §PM- 5 CITY OF PARIS DRY GOODS COMFAN S. E. Corner Geary Street and- Grant Avenug; great demand. The Blouse Mantelet Is: an- ab-olutely fascinating ‘garment o! mousseline de sole. On=ol.the loveliest.is the ruddy violet'hue that is' so popular at the present moment. It ispleated back | and front, forming ‘a small basqiie below the walst, attached: with & band of black | velvet-ribbon, The sleeves are very novel| and hang in the shape of a meantelet. They are finished with a wide flouncing of guipure. These garments are being worn very extensively over - light frock and are greatly admired. Chit-Chat. Pierrot pincushions are well liked novel- | ties, 's0- called after tlie well-known hat: Those of while velvat with liitle pompois | ‘either'white or colorea are dainty and sell:|: most satisfactorily atfairs. They may:be used. for pins. of all lensths; ‘trom: the. dainty lacs ones to- those skewer-like :al- fairs that hold onr hats.in plac®. The fancy for-jeweled embroidery -con: tinues, and some “exceptionall G sults ‘are seen when fine'n form:the ground work SUPERFLUOUb HAIR ON THE FEMALE FACE, On meti’s cheeks above the heard line. moles, warts, hiacklieads, red - 1oses, freciies islies permanent desirored PR THOTY IS CO Spu Erazoiico. THE PITADEY . JAT0 Mark biack heinds, tFeckies, Sirth RIS T oxf TASED U8l MESTORED ¢ AthTul evlor anc:beat o: IQIVS'I!AI! HEALTH R NOTARY PUBL!C. A, J. HENRY; NOTARY PUBLIG, " 638 Tactom ;7[0‘ enidonce. w05 {I.\s.rlst. | uireet. ‘m?phon- “Churcis :5."" e NEW 70-DAY. bong | Badt gainor soir, | AT AHICH & fioam £YE SHOULD' cumv BISTIHGUSSH LETTER S o ANNCH LONG: CALt ano HAVE YOUR EVES rtmo 2 hmn"-nlgigwnhm Take e darigerons subetiin. i o vmtanions. AL st de. il ethoratats ok Tadles,” in letier; by eturn imooals. - Neme Japer. At specially mptlng prlces we . will offer: this week our: Finest-and Choicest::Lace Curtains. and’ Po tieres “in -manybeautiful. patterns. - The weekly inducement cf our. = o o PIT= Teguiar $12,50 Brussels, Irk " *Jenalss \nce, your cholce. . " Regular. §15 Sexony Brus aor In sty Point marked down 857 Real g8 Brassels. and Swiss Tnmnaur “greatly reduced, 84.50 Pair some Rxpans $1.50 Nottinghams for iHandsome $5 Portleres, in° Damask and’ Chenlile .. $1.75 Pair . Table Covers..6 feet square. .$1.50 mght or-one WE HAVE A MOST EXTEN- SIVE ASSORTMENT OF CAR: PETS AND LINOLEUMS. Pattosnen S, Sixteenth and ‘Valencia Sts.—S. F.. you begin to E ] | ool the housc. " This is’ the ‘third: t:u"ne» since. Spring you have lost your time because you don't feel well enough to work. .dozen a year, hut I always keep them L If you will buy Tabules and. take:one: at after each: meal for a day or two, - you Il be all nght and stay so, “too, if you takc one when you notice that;' : feel bad.~ I don’t use a.