The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 4, 1897, Page 28

28 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JULY 4, 1897. FASHIONS, FADS AND FANCIES FOR JULY. We are praying for warm weather and | cal remarks; indeed, some of the worst- an abatement of the wind, so that our | gowned women with whom I }1nve met summer girls from the East may have an bave very decided ideas concerning every opportunity of displaying their pretty jone else’s garments, and thpy seldom ap- muslin gowns, for we are not content to | prove v"f any style but their own. Indx: merely read about themn; we want to see viduality in dress is a good thing, but them on real, live figures, dancing and | spare me fr_om the uncorseted crank who promenading around our parlors and | wears empire gowns to market adorned beau:ified during the past year, so now we have a truly lovely assortment of gauzy | silks and mushins with satin surfaces, as | well as a bewildering number of the finest, | most exquisite grenadines from wh:ch to choose, and the canvasasof silk and wool with elaborate patterns sell readily for $3 per yard so great is the demand for them. those with =atin stripes are much liked. Several of the new silks are artistic con- ceptions. One pattern sure to be liked has a watered ground on whicih are satin brocaded flowers. The fine Sicilian silks are in high favor this snmmer, being both inexpensive and effective. air and smartness, in spite of the fact that they must be acknowledged to have be- come far too popular for the fashionable dames, who discard any gown, no matter how becoming, as soon as the materials of which it is composed are generally worn. | biue and white and in green and white. | 'COLUMBIA Those in half-mourning find the black and white foulards very acceptable. Ons streets in their own pratty, girlish fashion. | A pretty street gown is the ambitton of every woman. A soft gray wool, dous'd with red chenille, is just the thing to suit the fastidious. The skirt can be made with a circle front and side, and a double box-pleat in the back. The lining of red silk is separat» from the material and is finished plain around the lower edge. The ripple skirt is scalloped at the bot- tom and trimmed with three rowsof red | silk ribbon pleated. The effect of this is very pretty, as it gives a full appearance 10 the bot tom of the skirt. For a slender person the waist can be bloused all | around, with surplice in front under a belt ofdark gray satin or ribbon with short 1oops on the right side. A full cape bretelle of the material is scalloped and trimmed to match the bottom of the skirt. AV with high collar of red fills in the front and a ruffie of lace with lace tis finishes the | neck. The sleeves ars small leg of mut- ton with tight lining, the inside seam of lining and materiai being stitched to- gether, scalloped and trimmed with rib- bon to match the skirt. This is the season for all sorts of cotton dress goods, such as pique, batiste, linen- finished grass cloth, etc.; but they are all so incrusted with guipures, Iace and em- broideries that they completely excluda the simplicity so frequently quoted, hut seldom seen, in dresses for outdoor wear. The silk and satin striped grass linens are lovely. They are in dainty colors in stripes of various widths, such as brown, pink, green and !avender. There are other novelties, still later, in | black and white silk hair-line broken plaids on finest grass cloth, with large oc- casional dots in bright colors—pink, blue, green, etc. A vaporons grass cloth is checkered with fine white satin lines and striped with a wide openwork of white satin threads. Other fancy grass cloths are in self-colored openwork patterns with col- ored silk plaidings. About the greatest novelty in this line is the dainty scroll figuring in blue, lilac or black silk embroidered on the grass- cloth, which is a material beautifully adapted for blouses, fronts and combina- tions in general. Then there are the floral embroidered patterns which are, after all, less chic than the novelties men- tioned. Individuality in Dress. A good many women in their attempt | to look well-dressed remind me of the old fable of the foolish bird who tried unsuc- cessfully to imitate the peacock and was lsughed at by ail the birds in the poultry- yard. To be sure, that giddy daw did | 5!7e38® form the edge. It seems as though evening dresses will never reach their senith. They grow prettier every year, but perhaps the material has much to do with their beauty. are charming and of the latest design. A sun-pleated princess in white silk tissue, made over pearl green. The low neck is outlined with the daintiestof white lace. The sleevesares | double puff of the pleated goods, finished with lace. The other is of pale blue satin and silver and pearl embroidery on the skirt. Under the ruffle is a sort of pleated fichu, which crosses under the belt, which can be arranged in different ways. We have two here tha The waist is of blue chiffon on blue satin and the ruffies on the neck are of chiffon, cut out 50 as to lett the make an object of himself, but he prob- ably only did it once, jor his friends, in- stead of remarking that he looked simply lovely, openly made themselves merry at bis expense, but thoss of our sex who at- | tire themselves in a truly fearful and won- derful way would seldom appreciate criti- | | with bows which are usually located in unexprcted places. The Latest Fabrics. Crepe de chine isso lascinating a ma- terial that it may truly be said to always | be in fashion, and now are being uncased 1€ | some noveities on which are Chinese de- All varieties of chiffon and mousseline | signs in black and white. Satin flowers de soie have been greatly improved and | may ve scattered over the surface and Foulards, especially the blue and white ones, certainly make extremely useful dresses, and when well made, a good qual- ity of guipure being used in their com- position and a large bow of white tulle tied under the chin, they have a certain such toilet ha white ground; on which are many zigzag lines of black; the vest is ! of white siik, over which is laid in soft folds a chiffon embroidered in black; a ruche of black silk ribbon encircles the square-cut neck; another edges the bot- | worn a great Leghorn hat surmnnde\l‘\ | oven canvas. tom of the skirt, which hangs free fro the white surah silk foundation. The Sicilians now being shown have a moire pattern upon them and checked in minute squares. They are best liked in The canvas ; renadine perfectly vlain is said to make up well over silk when the skirt is sun pleated and the bodice over- hangs a soft waistband; it may be pouched only in front, but those whose figures can stand it should have the pouched effect both back and front. The yoke must be made in innumerable tucks, and a vest of Maltese or Irish lace is demanded to give the finishing touch. All the pouched bodices now enjoying such a great yogue have small sleeves, with only a very limited number of small pleats at the top, for the great, ungainly, awkward, baggy sleeves are things of the past; but they reached such h:deous proportions befor being banished that we will remember them yet a little while. The Causouk Is a sort of over-bodice in guipure over white satin or Brussels. Most of the great Parisian houses are making their white gowns with the causouk. These causouks are extremely useful and dainty, as well as very practical, for they are made en- tirely independent from the rest of the costume and may be worn with any blouse or bodice with which they harmonize. Any one possessed of any ingenuity after seeing a causouk can evolve one out of alternate bands of lace and muslin or chiffon, and some are transparent, while others again have a lining of satinoia delicate or brilliant hue. Pink and all its various tones are in great favor, but the latest shade, known as ‘“paille,” is quite the rage, but really differs but little from siraw color. Pique Dresses Are more popular than was anticipated. Several have lately been worn well worthy of remark. One of these has its bodice pleated on the cross with seven rows of guipure insertion. A peculiar feature of the pleatings is that, although cut on the cross, they are so arranged as to fall in a sort of double flounce from shoulder to shoulder, and beneath each flounce is sewn a band of guipure. The remainder of the bodice is gathered gracefully into the waist with a draped wide corded silk ribbon. Extending from the knees down the skirt is composed of alternate rows of wncks and insertions. The second dress is extremely simple, | consisting as it does cf merely a skirt and | smart jacket of the finest grade of pink pique. Both are smartly cutand made by a good tailor, and the little vest is of real | Irisn lace, made over pink. With this is | with beautiful pink silk poppies, Canvas dresses ho'd their own. One of unusual chic is made of a blue and white The bedice may be de- scribed as a ‘‘crossing bedice,” and on it the selvedges of the material fizure con- spicuonsly. The white silk muslin shirt bad a coilar of mauve velvet tucked in at | the corners, the tucks crossing. Theskirt had on the hips five tucks, and a fold of NEW TO-DAY. 'KID GLOVES. Full assortments just received, colors red, navy, green, black, tans, browns, white, vellow, etc. Buttons or clasps. We fit them to the hand and warrant every pair. They have proven to be the best kid gloves ever shown at the prica of $1.00. CALIFORNIA POPPY, CALIFORNIA VIOLYT, CUSHION TOPS, TR R Ly Special Bargain Prices. LADIES'’ EMBROIDERED SCAL- LOPED HANDKERCHIEFS, reg- ular value 15¢, NOW 7o. LADIES’ HOSIERY, Hermsdorf Fast Black Lisle Thre: regular vaiue 40c, & INOW 25c. LADIES EMBROIDERED HEM- STITCHED OR_SCALLOPED HANDKERCHIEFS3, pure linen, worth 40¢, i INOW 20ac. BLACK BROCADED DRESS SILKS, choice aesigns, regular $1 25 grade, NOW 85o. SPECIAL BARGAINS THIS WEEK: Laces, Dress Trimmings, Ribbons, Neck- wear, kte. KOHLBERG, STRAUSS & FROHMAN, 107 AND 109 POST ST. —AND— 1220-1222-1224 MARKET ST. ON THE FEMALE FACE, On men’s cheek~ above the beard line. moles, warts, biackheads, red noses, freckles and all facial bie ishes permanently and_painlessi destroyed by the ELKCIKIC NEEDLE OPERATIU. stamp for our free book. CHICAGO ELECTKOLYS 613 Parrott B'Iding, San Francisco. Hours, 9 10 4; Sundays, 10 to 1. SUPERFLUOUS HAR : PHILADELPHIA 70 Market street, cor. rooms ¢8 and 29, by le, without pain or scar. Meles, warts, wrinkles, blackheads, treckies, birth- marks and other facial blemishs ulso remoyad. = S REMOVE ELECTRO Taylor, over means of the eiectric ne. ¢ TE the fabric headed the hem. MARCELLA. Permanency guaranteed. Hours1tod P. . COT ACROSS HERE AND FOLD. “I'm The Child 0f The King, ” Words by ANNA MORRISON REED By permission of the San Francisco Call. Rather slow with EXPRESSION. Music by LEILA FRANCE. — A—N—P < (ZTT Issag~ T [ J L*-. = DR ) 2 : e 7= came to his own, who knew him not then, But wait for his com -ing in - bright hues of Au - tumthey glad-den and bring, New treas-ures of gold to the came to his own, who knew him not then, But wait for his com - ming in [ v & L} glo - ry child of glo - ry a-gain. I the King. a- gain. love A world that And when moon and stars fade his cre - a - tion, is beau - ti His flower’s and the song df the . ful, won -drous sub-lime. Through his - from eyes that are dim. R o v 3 v “ T g : mf : ’ AT B = P i e e Smeb £ v ”) N 4 7] '# O ; : : ~ sy ti = ni - est bird that sings the day long, The snow of the win - ter, the birth - right is no - ble, I'm child of the King, Who power he hasmade in-dis - pu - ta- bly mine. Ex - ul- ting in sight,sound and soft and per - fumed where the Jas - mine is twined. And the go as the sun sets on sor -row and sin. From Time and the Crosswhere I birth - right is no - ble, I'm child of the King. ‘Who Copyright 1897 by Anna Morrison Reed & Leila France, T'm the child of the King, ,