The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 2, 1897, Page 28

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MAY 2, 1897. Asthough to verify my remarks made last week concerning the exquisite taste of American women, I find that the gowns to which were awarded the principal | zes a: the second annual doll show in | & were of pale green, black, white, d gray. All the models were con- -d by the ieading dressmakers in intry. . Whitney’s prize of $100 for the ball gown corsidered most perfect, was awarded to a New York designer. It wa in black and white, the honorable men- tion having been bestowed upon a deli- cate green frock. Mrs. Herman Oelrichs offered a like sum for the most successful varden party | dress. It was won by a bright woman who resides in St. Paul, Minn. °* Generally spesking, all the visiting and | street costumes were subdued in color, | the principal prize having been received by the exhibitor of a strest gown com- | this ¢ | frequently the description of the trim- i Most of us realize in looking over fash- ion-plates how few, comparatively, can bz used exactly as they are depicted. We take tne idea of a jacket from onme, of a vest from another, and a third gives us ex- actly the skirt we mostaamire, so that ming of &an elaborate ball gown will fur- nish just the necessary hint for the ar- rancement of lace on the simplest, pret- tiest little organdy imaginable; or again, the colors of costly lace over richest satin conveys a delightful idea for a dainty evening waist to be evolved out of the most inexpensive of fabrics. Gowns Recently Worn BY WELLKXOWN WOMEN, A dress worn this month by Mrs, Harry Payne Whitney emanates from the abode of a well-known New York dressmaker. It is of a dark blue and white checked woolen goods, the blazer jacket being Cyeling costume of piai clost front beneath front to show the white linen sh posed of black whipcord worn with a| white vest. So great was the success of Vogue's sec- ond doll show that it promises to become &n annual event, and as every cent re- ceived is donated to an excellent charity in every way, it is deserving of thed tinguished patronage lavished upon | the senms rather heavily strapped with | de cour falling from the shoulders, where | | thread. Oneof the waists Mra. Whitney | her bair was a ‘"ng and slender osprey of | Wide strings are a fad just now. This fine | 18 worn quite far back on the head. The trim | carnations. The strings are of cerise taffeta. WIDE STRINGS IN VOGUE. Panama straw hat is coquettishly bentand ming isa bow of wired lace and bunches of will wear with this blazer is of creamy white dimity covered with artistic little yeliow figures. The collar is a soft crush one. The Countess of Essex possesses this | spring a handsome mignonette grenadine, | through which runs a little green satin stripe, 1t is made over soft finished green | silk; now carefully note the fact that the | most exquisitely and correctly garbed of | women will not tolerate the rustling sound ] of taffeta any more than the rustle of a | stiffly starched white skirt. But I know if | vou ask at most stores for a silk with a soft | finish, and state that you wish it for a | lining, you will be informed that taffeta is | the thing. Well, to return to the Countess’ frock, | the bodice has a smart vest of pale green | silk daintily embroidered, her straw hat | | matches this in tome, and it 1s merely | adorned with black ostrich plumes. Atan afternoon whist party given a few weeks ago in Paris, Mrs. Ayer looked ex- | tremely well in a black satin confection. | Of Mme. Faure’s frock, which was worn —— | by her at the Elysee ball, a Vogue corre- spondent writes: “‘She wore a gown of | pale azure brocads, the trsin en manteau | ed with flat and corded braid. The skirt The smart little bolero opens widely in studs. rather long, open in front and a snugz fit in the back, but the sides are loose and all | dark blue cloth. Two good-sized pockets | it was atiached by clasps of magnificent | are on the hips. The broad lapels and | brilliants. Venetian pointof great value | collar are of the finest white broadcloth | fell in rich showers on the front of the | beautifully embroidered with fine gold | skirtand encircled the decolietaga.” In | back and front, & wide strap confined at the waist. The yoke and slecves are embroi the sle ves. ( A SWELL GOWN. Gown of dark blue rep. This has a curious bodice made of green and Indian rel g:vz", over which falls from a yoke of the rep, both Green taffeta pufiings are let into red Wi green. A DAINTY shaded posies. In front were tulle quilles wrought with gold and surrounded with white feathers. Pink gauze formed a double ruche around the neck. It was plisse and feil on either side of the quilles. Spring Fancies. The bolero coat has really become ex- tremely fashionable. It may be that this popularity will prove its death, but justat present it promises to be worn as generally as the Eion jacket was in its palmiest days. Everywhere it is in evidence, made in the cheapest as well as the most costly materials. While it is not strictly new as an article of wear, it is quite 50 as a fash- ion, which, as I bave said, amounts at the present time almost to a craze. Itis, in iact, one of the curiosities of clothes be- cause it is something exceedingly trying 10 any but the neatest and daintiest of fig- ures. For the woman who wants to wear wha! 1s called a smart coat, there is one just be- ginning to be worn of the Chesterfield shape, that is exceedingly comfortable and stylish at the same time. The skirts are not lined, so that while warm they are not heavy. Toe top portion does not fit t_whny. for it just follows the lines of the figure, The seams are all strapved and that around the waist is not straight, but curved upward over the hips and pointed downward under two buttons at the back and again toward the pockets in front. This is a clever device to give due appear- ance of length and slenderness to the | figare. The skirts are wide and there is thus | plenty of room for the dress beneath. The collar is strapped and faced with velvet, and ihe cuffs are gauntlet shape and | piped with velvet. The garment can be either single or double breasted, the for- mer being perhaps newer and smarter. The body portion is lined with very fine woolen kersey. Among the new spring mantles is a | mantelet in black moire miroir with a pattern of silk gr nadine applique and edged with sequins. Large volants form | the sleeves, edged with lace falling over puffed cream chiffon. The hat should be of straw with bou- quets of primulas and foliage, as well as | high bows in green and mauve. A very smsrt cave isin black joult de <oie, the tight-firtting bodice with the fine lpuinura embroidery on linen. The voiants are of kilted black lace and grass | lawn. The collar is high and made of pli-se and lace. The jabot is of black | lisse with cream guipure applique. | The bat which uccompanies this cape shoujd be of mauve satin straw, the crown | encircled by rosettes in velvet and satin i moire ribbonsin harmonious colors. High bows and eucalyptus leaves add to its| CREATION. Black grenndine evening dress with gathered and tucked long sleeves. The frill which frames the square low-cut neck is formed of many tucked ruffi>s. A bunch of roses on the breast matches the rose-pink velvet walstband. The pearl necklace with 1ts dependent chains gives the finishing touch to this exquisite toilette. white heron ieathers that started from a pompon of marabout tip constellated with diamonds. On this occasion the young daughter of the President is said to have reminded all present of an exquisite paste! by Latour, her long-trained dress of miroir moire | silk being shot with pale rose, pale green ana the most delicate shadesof pearl. The corsage was covered with pink silk muslin and trimmed with pink velvet and fresh Bengal roses. left side of her head. At this same ball several simply superb creations of white satin formed the foun- dation, over which were draped the rarest and most exquisite of laces and ganzes that were covered with diamonds, in many cases used alone, but in others in combination with jewels and jets. On another festive occasion a leader of fashion was gowned in a vert d’eau bro- cade; the long skirt had a quille in front | and one on each side of green velvet of a much deeper tone, covered with ara- | besque designs embroidered in silk beads and gold, silver and stesl spangles. Bre- telles of sable were on the low bodice; the same fur also encircled the shouiders. In one corner nestled a bunch of violets; indeed, these lovely flowers are never out of fashion. The slipvers worn were of dark-green satin, embroidered at the tips. The stockings were mauve. Continuing, this correspondent states that a fair Countess wore pink moire, be- comingly fashioned, the skirt opened on the side over a panel of soft pink gauze plisse which simulated an underskirt, and was bordered with two rows of gold em- broidery which sparkled with jewels. At the left side the bodice had a drapery of pink gauze and on ti.e right one of gold lace richly jeweled. The short sleeves were puffs of gauze held in at intervals with pink ribbons. Pink feathers com- posed the fan, and the neckiace and tiara were of pearls. The pink satin shoes, spangled with gold, were worn with pink silk stockings having insertions of Valen- ciennes lace. The long pinkish White gloves haa bracelet fastenings. With this toilet was worn a sort cloak and pelerine of bright-pink’ Ottoman having an edging of chine white siik and quite an amount of white cnenille embroidery and A haif moon of these roses | | was most becomingly arranged on the }chann. At the back there should be | clusters of roses in shaded pink. | A very fashionable jacket is the satin Sultane. It kas a box pleat down the back and the braces are of fine jet. The zouave waistband is of folded silk and the sleeves are with fulled epaulettes. The | appropriate dress for the head with this jacket is a toque in paie green braid with séquins and beads. The crown is formed of mercury richly studdea with beads and sequins. A handsome osprey feather is overeall. One of the prettiest gowns of the season is of cashmer-. The ornamentation is an applique of velvet worked with cord, and the coior is the new smoked gray. It is made of a yoke and a basque cut up in segments, and the cuffs and the revers are lined with pink satin, or something eise, that is suitable. It isa very smart mid- season gown. As for the bodice, its popularity seems to be steadily increasing. Even in the | gauzes and thinner fabrics of which it is constructed the transparent element, XEW TO-DAY: {mperial Hair Regenerator will make the hair beauti- Jul, glossy and natural, no mitter how Streaky, Bl ACHED or GR .Y i{ oy be. f 10 is clean, odorless, last- | ing. Itdoesnotcontain an atom of poisonous matter. B baths do not affect it, A%/ neither does curling or MY crimping. Incomparabls {, forthe Bi-ARD on uccount of its durability and clean- No. 3, Medium Brown. No. 4,Chestnut Sole Manufacturers ana Patentees: Imperial Chemical Mfg. Co., 292 Fifth av..N. Y. or sale by Druggists and Heirdress In San Francisco sold and applied by Stanisias Strozynski and Goldstein & Cohn. | 6. Lederer, 111 Stockton striet. NEW DICE-PATTERN CHECK. Black and white is the rage of the hour. In checks the dice pattern is considerea the most attractive. This one in foulard ischarming with its bodice full atone sideand draped across the figure. The two frilis are faced with white, covered with eresm-colored lace, with an edging of gold braid. Betw:en these two frills is a baud of turquoise velvet ribbon. The same ribbon is made into three rosettes and set on the bust es if gathering up the foulard. Atthe neck and on these rosettesare quaint turquoise buttons. The white belt is embroidered with jewels. cloudlike effect and the upstanding|pointed toes are after the style of Edward soutache pattern assert themselves. The III, in patent leather, which, of coursel designs this year must be different from have to be filled in as no mortal toe could those that have preceded them or they |ever reach the tips. are not a la mode. Many bodices will, These shoes are made with quite mod- be made 1n the new pleated brilliante, the | erate heels, only one and a half inches most silky of these thin fabrics, with ali | high. Some mule slippers, as they are the brightness of Roman satin and the | called, in yellow brocade bordered with a suppleness of gauze. When they are|ruche, with a heel five inches bigh, are pleated horizontally and perpendicularly | perfact specimens of workmansnip as well they give a specie of lozenge effect. It is|as examples of the height of absurdity called plisse Sylvia, twenty-four inches | to which a fashionable fad may run. wide and uncrushable. It is aamirable| There is one delightful feature about all for sleeves. | these things of which I have told. We do The newest things in fashion’s shoes— | not bave to wear any of them unless we not for walking, of course—is a revival of | wish to. 8o if any of them are far beyond the modes wnich obtained in the Tudor | the limits to which our purses will permit and Stuart times, when the women of the | us to go We can simply say that for our day had more regard for appearance than | part we favor creations less elaborate. comfort. | Nobody can deny that simplicity and good The idea has been carried out in great | breeding go hand in hand. And there are variety, and some of the enormous scarlet | times when there is a lot of comfort in the heels appertain to glove kid shoes. Some | thought. MARCELLA. NEW TO-DAY—DRY GOODS. (ITY OF gt PARLS! 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