The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 7, 1897, Page 24

Large bolero of black fancy straw with high, scooped-out crown. On the edge of the brim, ro, & wreath of close ide, 8 knot of straw plait to match the hat, with an aigrette close to the foid of the bol side, covering the b he cy greenery. set poppies, in & double row inside and out” | weaving, and the back of the pattern dis- flounce of bright green silk pinked out along the lower edge and veiled with fine black Chantilly lace. This flounce was headed by a box-plaited ruche of violet ribbon with smart little bows in the two colors at intervals all around. Silks and Brocades. These are to be had in wonderful varie- ties this season, owing to the fact that there is a growing demand for tRese fabrics, as in many cases silk has taken the place of wool, and in numerous in- stances where wool has been used the ap- pearance of silk is carried out by an in- termixture of silk with the wool. As a result many long-closed factories have been opened, and from Italy are coming some silks that will cause the merchants in Lyons some uneasiness, so beautiful | are they In texture, coloring and design. Bonnet has on the market at the present time several most beautiful siiks, firm as a board and astonishingly reasonable in price. That we want variety 1s fully com pre- hended by tmporters, and as a result a bewildering number of patternsare pre- | sented on our counters. For example, we | may well be surprised at the novelties in the waterings of the black and white silks alone, as there are moire antique grounds with large satin leaves, and over this small clouday effects. Charming is a white moire watered to resemble water thrown on a highly polished surface, *“where it is apt to form itself into deep voints.” Fre- quently in the case of new waterings there ure several aquatic designs in which streams of satin appear to be bordered | with frost, as you may have seen the vege- | tation with snow and hoar frost beside a frozen stream. Italian Satins, The satins now being sent out from Italy I am really curious to see, for they are said to be singularly peautifal and most diverse in color. The bouquets of colored brocaded flowers, large and small, on distinct grounds, are another great element of beauty. They are, as it is tecnnically called, emroidered afier the % been an exceeding long time since variety of costume and beauty of terial have been so charmingly com- ed as in the constractions of the dress- ker already planned for the Easter t can be s The truest of all things th about the Faster designs is that while they are novel they are not strictly new. We are often to at in dresses for women there is never anything new under the sun—that history merely repeats itseif. Now oftentimes this is an atrocious slan- der. Our gowns are rovel and new, and in my heart I have always believed that the reason th not to be was be- cause of that innate jealonsy of man who secretly fumes because his clothes are never anything but worked-over styles. o year, h confess that the noveltie! Easter Costumes. There is no intention to recall a single word of praise said of the Easter costumes. They are just as pretty as they can be, and the woman who could not find something to please her among them is really too particular for this world. It st a feast to go and look at the fashion plates, and if you know some milliner, some swell one, well enough to get in behind the scenes, vour breath will be fairly takeu away by what is shown you. Probably you will'not have money enough to in- dulge in the beautiful creations you see, but then vou know there is always the satisfaction ot realizing that the less ex- pensive gowns are nothing in the world but combinations of ideas gained from other gowns whose cost has a terrific effect on & bank account or 2 lonely purse. Skirts are not going to be so full. Not that there is going to bs an approach to that abomination known as the ‘‘pull- back,” but the voluminous has been re- tired and the gowns will not contain yards of material that is of no more use than would be a bouquet fastened in the middle of one’s back. Sleeves, too, have really diminished, and only a comparative full- ness is retained at the shoulder, a modifi- catlon of that style known as ‘‘leg o mutton.” The skirts are more trimmed than last season, and are generally quite flat in tront. They have wide tabliers and gored back breadths mcunted in two or three hollow plaits. Belts and Bodices. There are some of the creations of the dressmaker which dispense with the belt. The bodice comes over the skirt and ends in points back and front. This, however, is need not be taken as meaning that the belt is vegetating. Not at all. Just so long as the bolero exists belts will con- tinue to bold their own. The belts, by the way, which are sup- posed to be of the sort which will become vopular are composed oitentimes of bands of ribbon deseribing a downward point and an upward point, the latter much more defined than the former, three large paste buttons adorning the middle, while others are buckled at the side. Another belt is high in the back and narrow in front, with a paste or a cut-steel buckle as fastening. It is an unquestionable fact that the trimmed skirt is making its way into fashion. So far the skirt trimmings of aay dresses are not too obtrusive, but evening skirts are much more elaborate. The blouse bodice in its man; is still a prime favorite, and likely to re- main so all spring and summer. charming variety is made up of red woolen fabric, trimmed with black galon twisted into macaroons. The blouse bod- ice opens over a chemiseite of gem-em- broidered white siik filied in with white velvet, the collar being of the same. The waist is confined by a belt fastened with a buckle. The sleeves, adorned with braid- ings, are puffed at ihe top and frilled with lace at the wrist. The Princess Robe. The princess robe, in all its simplicity of line, scems again to be popular, or rather achieving popularity. The style of other days bhas been siightly modified tosuit the requirements of the present. An up-to-date robe is composed of red cloth with strapped seams, the seams be- ing finished to correspond. The draped . apels in this particular robe are of white satin’ veiled py cream-colored guipure. {AKERS tell us that it has| Then thereis a lace cravat and a lace fin- | | ishing to the sleeves. This is one of the very swell robes, but of course the style is | maintained in equally striking but much | less expensive fashion. Braids, or galons, | as they are sometimes called, are to be | used in conjunction with velvet, moire, cloth and woolen materials. Brocades. The brocade petticoat is being worn a little and is goin« to be worn a_good deal more. Take a real good brocade at & sale price in a floral design on a dark ground and it is not at all a bad investment. How much superior such a one 1s. to the white \bric only those who have had ex- | perience of both and the laundress can tell. It is not an extravagant plan to al- | low yourself an underskirt of brocade also in a pale color for evening wear. A very smart little skirt was noticed the other day which was made from three sale rem- nants—or rather four—when the ribbons are included. The brocade itself was very pretty with ita bunches of violets and rather bright green leaves scattered over a darker green background, the lining of the skirt being pf shot glace silk in har- monizing tones of violet and green. In- side the hem there were three littie flounces of the glace silk while the skirt covers the various colors employed. There are many rich light blue and deep rose- | colored satins, with a brocade of white | lace tied in bowsand festoons, which at intervals show small bouquets of roses | in a couple of shades, and there are many bold and beautiful brocades in which flowers of various kinds and different hues wouid seem to have been painted on the material. It seems that at & very moderats price it is quite possible to produce a greater ap- | pearance of richness in brocade than in | any other make of silk, and ¢ rtainly the best qualities will long remain in vozue, so marvelously lovely are they in patterns and colorings, and they faithfully portray nature, whenever flowers or vegetation | are the designs employed. As a result the rarely exquisite greens in connection with brighter hues seen on light grounds are worthy subjects for an artist’s brush, so | minutely do they reproduce the rarest and | most gorgeous of blossoms. In the cheaper silks are shown the dull- | checked patterns our grandmothers used to wear with so much complacency, but through the somber checks the weavers have irtroduced a single bright tone with excetlent results. Surah is to be again in demand as well | as Mascotte silks, they are between merveilleux and surab., Foulards are destined to be employed in the evolution | with black lace on them. was trimmed outside with a very deep of numerous pretty, simple, cool little DAINTY NEW LINGERIE. frocks, and for waistcoats, vests, coats and trimmiugs are to be had an enormous choice in closely woven geometrical pat- terns of many colorings intermixed. These look much richer and more expensive than they really are. There isa marked ten- dency to use surah, in many cases, instead of taffeta. Our American silks daily gain in popularity,as in designs and quality they are steadily improving. The Latest Summer Fabrics Which have reachea us, so far, are many of them possessed of rare beauty, among them I am enthusiastic over the grena- dines, the grass linens and a new weave of chiffon, one of which, a black one, is woven with broad black satin stripes and then brocaded over in white skeleton fern leaves, and ghostly looking orchid and iris blossoms. Others in gray, pink and blue are equally artistic in effect. Have you ail seen the beautiful displays of grass linens and organdies in tbe win- dows of some of our principal stores dur- ing the past week? That dainty linen with the very open mesh of an ecru tone over a bright green silk taffeta1s most fetching, as is also the one having a twine-colored background, over which are odd purplish figures. Thisoneisto be made over silks of the same line, with a great sash and stock of wide ribbon to match. Almost equally worthy of admiration is another having a similar ground sprayed with crimson roses. Crimson silk is to be used as a lining. Such gowns will be reveled in by voung girls in the evening, but their elders show a preference for dresses of figured or dotted black or white | net, these all being made over bright- hued changeable taffeta. There is noted a decided tendency to re- turn to dresses of black and white lace, and the most extravagant orders have been given for entire lace robes by several of our country women who have recently returned from abroad. The plain organdies just uncased ata great New York house have in numerous instances their skirts trimmed with inser- tions, which are graduated in length or with flounces in gradations, or grouped on the bottom. The Spanish flounce will be worn, but it is to be varied in many ways. An American Girl, With lovely fluffy blonde hair, was a pic- ture at an informal dance given about two weeks ago. She was garbed in a pale blue and white foulard, covered with an odd, ir- regular white figure. It was made over taffeta, which exactly matched the blue tone. Around the bottom of the skirt was a small rufile of light blue chiffon. This had two beadings; each as well as the lower hem, was edzed with a narrow fine and delicate lace. It is difficult to deecribe the waist. Soft, full ruffles extend from the low-cut neck to the waistband, all being edged with the lace. Silken ribbons complete it. Ribbons are much worn on all dresses of either satin, silks or velvet. Speaking of foulards, brown and tan, or gray and black, go especialty well together. A gray and white one I recall thatis es- vecially pretty also, of black and white combination, that has tiny white ruffles The sleeves are tight with three ruffles at the top. HAccordion Skirts Are to be popular, that is an accepted fact, and 1n Europe an entirely new kind of crepon is being used in their composition. Fancy silk blouses of the same tone are worn with them under braided boleros, 50, in spite of the fact that boleros have Five o'clock tes apron of turquoise blue teffeta, edged with white lace and a striped black and white ribbon. White batiste nightrobe with sailor collar, ornamented with white lace insértion and edging. This collar opens upon a pleated piastron and & flounce of white lace headed by insertion. Cuffs to match. Slecveless chemise of white batiste, hand embroidered and lace-edged. Pink or blue inch-wide satin buttonholes near the top, {ront and back, and are tied in bows on the shoulders. with black velvet. flare over the hand. Black velvet coliar. The ribbon and black plumes. the only harmless method that can be employed is the free use of castile soap and water. An egg shampoo is excellent, but-will darken the hair. I feel positively sorry for the women who insist on using chemicals on themseives to alter nature’s handiwork, as there is something so ob- jectionable about the appearance of dved hair. Itseems todemand rouged cheeks and all the theatrical accompaniments, However, let women do what they choose with thems but they have no right to experiment 9n their innocent children, MARCELLA. Styles fflen. Many of the new plaids and checks just !’eceived 1n New York are being much ob- jected to by conservative men, as they are both loud and horsey looking. These will not be fashionable East, neither will they Teceive the stamp of approval of our beste dressed men, o8 Him says: *In order to avoid conspicuons clothing you will have to study the patternsin the latter is rather effeminate, I think, and not in keeping with the chromatic mascu- line mode."” The best fabrics to be ordered made up for your shirts are cheviot or madras, the very ordinary percales are all going out of style. Avoid vividly hued shirts as care- fully as the too pronounced tweeds, but it is predicted that tartan ties and imperials are to be very popularall spring; also hat bands to match ties. For overcoats the most popular fabries are coverts and kerseys, and light tan shades are preferred. Undressed worst- eds, vicunas, Venetians and cheviots are being made up into long coats. It is thought that the wearing of knick- erbockers will eventually revolutionize wen’s fashions, and one authority de- clares *“I advocate knee breeches for full dress, formal dress, every kind of dress except nightdress, C.0. KEW TO-DATY. 7). ) “ g Summer walking costume of any of the new shades in taffeta. The little flounces are edged The bodice is ornamented with designs in black velvet cut out over a satin foundation. The pleated chemisette is of white silk. The close fitting sieeves terminate in & | 600000000000V OOIOOVO black straw hat is trimmed with pompadour become undeniably common, the unique and exquisite little affairs will hold their own for many moons, for, according to Vogue, “the charm of the boiero has lost none of its attraction, and promises to vie with the popularity of the blouse, which was an enduring favorite of years’ stand- ing. The bolero is now so well under- stood—so well modeled to suit every figure, and has been found so adaptable to bodices of gowns, ranging from full dress to negligees, and so capable of holding the richest trimmings in vogue or treated with extreme simplicity—that it is not to be expected that so admirable a dress featare is to be abandoned. Empiecements— those varied and pretty bodice conceits designed to ornament them in odd way: introducing tine bits of lace, needlework embroidery or rich stuifs in contrast—will too serviceable in producing a variety of models. :Qur summer gowns, we may feel as- sured, are to havs their bodices trimmed with flat or ruffled boleros, as well as lace ones; and puffings have their share of ornamentation, while plisse will con- tribute their pre-eminent grace and be- comingness."’ There is nothing more novel than the mousselines de soie painted in pale colors in imitation of old brocades. Dresses made out of these gauzy stuffs are trimmed with flounces cut bias, alternated with lace. The bodices are adorned in the same way and finished at the waist with wide pleated bands of a bright color 1n a miroir velvet of a strongiy contrasting shade, with three rhinestone buckles upon one side. Silk slips are used for all these dresses, and naturally such toilettes necessitate the wearing ot the loveliest of underskirts, The White Petticoat, Which has been discarded, in a great measure, for several years, is to be once more indispensable, and {some owned by a New York belle, who has just returned from abroad, are very exquisite, being masses of laces and delicate incrusted em- broideries. Greatly will the laundries re- joice at the news, but for those of mod- erate means this decree of fashion will not be received with rejoicing, so ex- pensive are to be skirts and so enormous will be the laundry bills. However, the tiat has gone forth and girls who are fond of fine needlework will, during these Lenten days, make many a dainty gar. | ment, in the evolution of which can be used the flne pieces of embroideries and laces accumulated by the careful shopper | during the recent sales, Such work is very satisfactory when one has an abundance of leisure, other- wise I certainly consider it wiser to pur- chase ready-made underclothing— not cheap varieties, but well-made and neatly handled articles. How seldom nowadays do we hear of a bride making for her trousseau the thou- sand and one garments which a century ago she busied herself with. I have heara grandmothers regret the change, but I cannot say I do, for what does the aver- age bride want with two or three dozen of each article of underwear? The fashions change in everything, and the slender maiden frequently becomes a plump matron, who has no use for the great chests of underlinen. Even table-linen changes so in style that no large amount should be purchased at one time. Several of our pretty girls are 20 soon to becoms brides that I am repeating my advice to them, by which some of my readers may profit, 1 trust. Golden Hair. Children with lovely golden hair are universally admired, but alas! it is not always natural, for very frequently vain mothers use artificial means to keep their children’s hair light. OF course they are assured that the mixtures are absolutely barmless; butlet me tell them that fre- ribbons are run through \ka‘efllqnenuy 1l health and even death has been the result of using such drogs, and « hold their own we feel sure,as they are | new suitings carefully. Avoid the loud plawds, visible greens, daring browns and hideous blues. These new black-and-blue plaids are not to my liking, A man looks ill-dressed in coiors that stand out prom- inently. Unless the tone in a plaid merges into the ground color of a fabric the effect 1s outre. “The spring covert coats are to becut in two lengths. The short length is a saddle coat. Ilike it so well that I shall wear it for walking or riding. It justcovers the sack coat. The back is full and straight. The strap seams are quite wide. It is a | bard-looking, sporty coat that I ike. We must be mascuiine in our neglige dress; we must be heavily booted, strongly and | roughly clad. The covert gives one that | free-and-easy look that smecks of the,| country and health. “With your covert wear a tweed suit. It | is bad form for a man to wear carefully { pressed worsted trouserings, patent leath- He looks as | er shoes, with a covert coat. if he had divided himself up into high form anc outing. The scheme is ridicu- lous. “For formal wear we shall have long, close-fitting Chesterfields of vicuna. They cling to the waist and are quite military. The lapels should be faced with silk. The cuffs are made plain or have a three-inch turnback cuif with rounded points. The NEW TO-DAY $300.00 inCASH A 25-cent Pattern This New Shirt Waist No. 6998, FREE! /To Every One. HOW many words do you think you can spell correctlywith the letters in the word g * PATTERNS ” using cach lotteras de- sired, but not more times than it appears in “PAT- TERNS?" Verbs, pronouns, adjectives, nouns, ac verbs, plurals, allowed. Words spelled alike, but having different meanings, count as one word. ' Use any standard dictionary. All legitimate English words count. Proper mouns, prefices, sufiizes, 0bso- lete and foreign words do not count. Work 1t out as follows : Pat, Pen, Pens, Reap, Set, Ten, At, Net, ete. Our Offer.—Weo will pay &100 for the largest list, §50 for the second largest, $25 for the third, $10 each for the next five, §5 each for the next ten, and B1 each for the next twenty-five. That Is tor.ay we will divide among forty-three contestants the aggre- gate sum of $300, according to merit. Don’t you think you could be one of the forty-three? TRY IT. Our Purpos © above rewards for mental sffort are given free and withrut conslderation for the purpose of attracting attention to MODES, by May Manton, the most popular up-to-date Fashion | Magazine tn 'the world. ~ Its 35 pages, replete with veautiful illustrations of the latest styles in ladies’, misses’ and children’s garments, make it @ real necessity in every houschold; the Designs and Fash- lon Hints, being by May Manton, render it invalu: able as an absolutely rellable Fashion Guide. Our Conditions.—You must send with your list of words 25 cents (stamps or silver) for,a Three Months' Trial Subseription to MODES. Our Extra Inducement.—Every person sending 2 cents and a lis of 15 words or more, will, in addi tion to three months’ subscription, receive by re- turn malil a pattern of this stylish shirt waist No. 5998 (Illustrated above), in any size from 32 to 44-in. Our Aim.—The present monthly circulation of MODES exceeds 100,000. We aim to make it 200,00, This contest will close April 15th mext o the names of successful spellers may be published in June issue of MoDES, mailed May 15th, but SEND IN YOUR LIST AT ONCE. For our responsibility we refer you to any Mercantile Agency. Address:. JMODES FASHION MAGAZINE, Dept. 57¢ 130 WHITE SIREET NEW_YORK, LAWRENCE SISTEM. —Th [mperial Hair Regenerator wiil make the hair beauti tul, glossy and natural, no mitter how Streaky, BL. ACHED or GRAY i{ may be. It is clean, odorless, last- ing. It does notcontain an atom of poisonous matier. Baths do not affect it, nelther does curling of i Incomparable B! RD on account of its durability and clean- liness. XNo. 1, Black. No. 2, Dark Brown. No. 3, Medium Erown. No. 4,Chestnut No.5, Light |8 Chestnut. No. 6, Gold Blonde No.7. Ash Blonde. Price §150 and $3 00 Sole Manufacturers and Patentee: Imperial Chemical Mig. Co., 292 Fifth a For sale by Druggists and Hairdressers. In San Francisco sold acd applicd by Stanislas Strozynski and Goldstein & Cohn. Who Are.st American Heroines? $1,00 n Przs ot Bt i Name the Greatest Women that America has produced and win a prize.t bbbt Every contestant receives a prize : Columbia and Cleve- land Bicycles; Kodak, In- ternational Dictionary, etc. Send for a free sample copy of “Womankind,” containing full particulars, or send your list now and 50 cents for one year’s subscription to one of the best household literary papers published. Contest CLOSES May 15. Address, WOMARKIND, Springfield, Ohio, $1000.00 PRIZES. 00000000000000000000000000 G‘N“fl Important Sale THIS WEEK. :«t«*mnrmtmnm**: 6=Button Length Biarritz '5 50 Gloves, Pair Light Shades, gk Rk ok b Rokookok Ak ok 0000000000 0000000000000000000000000 000000000000 ok KAk R ARk Kk AR K i Buaranteed g = | 2 2 A JO AR A 2 Ak Ak SRR ARk AR RO Foke ¥4 H0k Ok TR Rk ko ek Ok 6ROk R Aok : § Sekde ke KAk Arkdok ok kb e ok ¥ ke ¥ 8-Button Length X Real Kid {s].g PATIERNS. 1231 MARKET ST. and 126 O'Farrell St. 2 3 ek ke Gloves, | All Shades, | Pair AAERKI IO Ak kR 718 MARKHET STRERT, oA KK x Yi 0