The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 21, 1897, Page 24

UNDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 1897. 1 e bodice, This Spring model for seper fine wool. s the yoke. These tucks may remain fl The yoke may be silk, covered #vith ls brocade. The closing is on the left side, and is diagram pattern shows the extreme simplicity but the top of the skirt worn with it is corded. the m Striped brocade matinee trimmed with chiffon and jeweled passementerie. ne 1ops”of the sleeves, the back and the fronts where they or be stiffened with cords, one of the elegant blouse waist may be made up in silk or join | fads of 18! ed or figured | pery. The | There is no walstband, naterial of the waist itsell, brai concealed by ribbon bows and of the cut of this waist. Hats, Toques and Bonnets. AT scems rather early to begin a discus- ) sion of spring millinery, but already model hats, etc., are beginning to ar- About three weeks ago Mme. Jane Hading looked hat made of a flat green gauffered straw, encircled with a white feather and a white adise aigrette caught at the back with ray of mountain ash. A dear little bride has just ordered a charming chapeau of an exquisite white straw, which is draped with a veil of point d’Angleterre surmounted by some simply parfect Duchesse de Brabant roses. Fancy a Paris hat composed of a single enormous pink silk double poppy, com- pleted with a Louis XVI bow end a dia- mond buckle. Lace maintains its popularity as an or- namentation for all sorts of headgear, and 8 toque of black velvet embroidered with stecl is encircled with full folds of creamy lace, caught up at one side with & diamond circlet and two black ostrich tips. Toques made entirely of Howers are, as usual at this season of the year, sden con- stantly, and they are generally composed of violets or roses. Gardenias are fre- quently intermingled. Other toques have their brims formed of violets, crown of | yellow mimosa, violets and mimosa being tied togetler to form an erect spray at one side. I consider these floral toques clumsy and usually most unbecoming; however, when made by an expert out of the choicest flowers the resultsare at times satisfactory, but I like far better an unpretentious hat of the bright Japanese straw, which has a satin-like surface. This particular bat is white, covered with an odd but excelient plece of heavy, very open black lace, which has an applique of a little white lace. The vivid “Jack’’ roses at the left side give a touch of color and three budsrest next the wearer’s dusky hair. Japanese rush wiil continue to be largely used all spring. Lightness is to be seriously considered, and split rush and straw are to help carry out many an idea of the great milliners. Foralong time hats have been lined in various ways, and not many months ago Russian leather was noted as one of the novelties, which, however, was not greeted with favor. Now velvet 1s being appligued on this leather just on the forehead. This makes such linings soft and comfortable, but not having seen one of these hats I cannot say whether they wiil or will not be a success. Privately, I imagine they must be quite hideous. The one great novelty in the coming millinery fashions is the use of vegetable silk for the fancy plaits, which are at least an inch wide. This has the most silky and charming sheen upon it. The more expensive kinds are made entirely of veg- etable silk, but it is imitated in silk com- bined with hemp. Here, again, the range of colors is very bright, indeed—vivid pinks, yellows, greens, petunia shades and many others aad ready to be made up into the fashionable hats and bonnets, while others show a combination of two colors and sometimes three, such as pink, yel- low, light green and cream. It is very light and is likely to effect quite a revolu- tion. . “This same fabric has been woven into an open gauze of a very light, thin make in various eolorings, and it is being ruched and gauffered to form ruches for inside the hats; some of them are shot, and many of these vegetable silk straws have the two colors combined in such a way toat they also appear to be glace; while quite a new notion are narrow straws freely striped in two colors, with the same effect of combined coloring. “It is to be & bonnet year, and the newest foundation shapes show the return of the curtain. At present it has not come back to us in its old style shading the nape of the neck, but stands erect like a turkey’s tail, and is generally formed of segments, The cartwheel crown is once more to the fore, and a numbe r of fashionable founda- tion shapes are preparing, made of net, but worked all over with paillettes, in either black and steel, or brilliant colot- ings, such ar iridescent petunia, green or blue. Breadth characterizes the new bon- nets, eitherin the front or in the rear, and many of these sequin shapes assume the form of a butterfly with outatretched wings.” All shades of green are to be indulged d unusually fascinating in s | in, even the most vivid tones, and we will all bave to accustom ousselves to bright | colors this year if we wish to be up to date, | but also our | | { for not only are our hats, | Rowns, parasols, etc., all to be vivid in | | hue. Already green and white rustic vlaits, red and black, deep pink and gray are arriving for the future adornment of | Sneaking of novelties reminds me that | among the latest ‘shapes are noted the Russian crown. The vegetable silk will | be most extensively employed 1 | | Bonnet toques are the new bonnets to be called, and this makes us at once think of the soft round form. However, these have guite 2 different shape and all have | some sort of crowns. Many are shaped | like pinnacles, others not uniike jam pots, and not a have a brim of pleated straw. This ruche is also to be seen on the hats. The ladest crow almost all widen toward the top and diminish where they join the brim. Iam happy to say that it is to be fashionable to have both toques and hats fit the head closely. Many chapeaux have a double brim, the underneath one usually contrasting sharply in color with the exterior brim. Colored chips are to be often made up as brims orcrowns. Bailer hats will be much in evidence, and it has been decided that | the old original shape is the best. Now it | is to be had in navy biue and many shades of red, with striped ribbon bands, as well as a narrow binding at the edge. Not long ago, at a church wedding, a hat of turquoise biue velvet, having a Tam o’ Bhanter crown encircled with bands of | quoise hue. | middle of each ruche was a narrow ribbon | rect to wear during the next six montbs. 1 linen collar. | vogue as the cotton ones ever did are to be | say. | and much less tn price are some fannel white velvet, was much admired. It was richly embroidered in fleur-de-lis, worked | | | the street the jacket hooks straight up the with fine rhinestones. At the left side four black ostrich tips were arranged fan shaped. Underneath the brim theres was also a tuft of feathers, very small ones. The wearer of this creation wore a chic cape of crepe de chine of the same tur- This was covered with the most delicate of Chantilly lace, dotted with silver spangles. The oval yoke was outlined with two fluffy ruches of mous- seline de soie, closely pleated. Down the of black velvet; this ribbon formed im- mense bows in the front. Shirt Waists and Ties Have gained s firm a footing that again will they claim our patronage and be cor- At present the tailor-made shirts of silk or wool figure in the wardrobes of New York’s smartest maids and matrons. In all respects they are made like cot- ton wash shirts. They have a narrow neckband, to which 1s attached a white Those having long slender wear their collars with & stock, which may be of either black or watered silk. Black is preferred. The latest ties are made on the stocks, and are of silks of different kinds tied in a bow. Ribbons are now never worn with a shirt without a stock. The cuffs must be of the same material as the shirt, straight, and in width about 4 inches wide. The shirts now enjoying as great a throats now 31, worn, presumably, beneath the heavy cloth walking-jacket, and may match the suit or be a contrast to it. Plaid flannels make very stylish shirts. One having three broad box-pleats at the front and back is fastened down the front middle vleat with small gold studs, When made a tailor such a shirt costs in New York 3 60—a really extravagant price I should But if you wish one of a changeable blue silk poplin moire, with some tiny tucks set quite far apart, both back and front, from the shefilders half way to the waist, with rather. basque-shaped sleeves, very much gathered along the upper seam lengthwise, you will have to pay, if order- ing from an Eastern tailor, $25. Could I carefully examine such a shirt I might consider it worth the price, but most girls can have such garments made at far more reasonable figures by purchasing a good pattern, as they are not at all difficult to make. | Vogue says: “Equally simple in make shirts in plain colors and plaids, both made with yoke back and full-gathered front, one straight plait down the center. The sleeves are gathered in toward the wrist in fine side plaits, about six in num- ber, and end in straight cuff. Price $8.” Plain and changeable taffetas are to be largely used, but 1 cannot recommend them to any one, as really they are far | too common and ordinary, and as for | those made of china silk, I consider them abominations, and they shonid certamnly be indulged in only in the country. Skirt and jacket suits will be more popn- lar than ever all through the summer, and the smartest coats will either be rather longer than usual or very short. With a liberal allowance of shirt waists such a suit, when the work of one of our best tailors, and sil. ed, may be worn with perfect satisfaction on any number ot occasions, and girls on limited allow- ances should first of all secure one of these dresses, and with what remains ob- tain what they can. When made with an adaptable jacket such a gown may merit the term chic as well as stylish. I quote the description of such a one: “A jacket that looks equally suitable whether worn on the street or at & concert or tea is made with the fronts double. On front, which is braided on either side and L Tailor gown in rough noveity goods. 8. 4 Btriped wool dress with soft velvet vest, and velvet-edged epaulette frills on Pale gray rough wool gown trimmed with braid. Drsped velvet waistband, has the ‘appearance of a plain tailor-made jacket with a chinchilta collar. At a tea, etc., the wearer can unhook the outside fronts, which turn back, forming narrow revers of green velvet, with which the fronts age lined, and display the inner ironts, which are made of inch insertion and fine lace. This jacket is both con- venient and modish.” 3 The bandsomest of such gowns are to be made of plain cloths or cheviot, and the seams must be plainly stitched up. For the skirt, if the fabric is light in weight, tailor's canvas shoula be used around the bottom not de-per than six inches. It must be stitched to the lining, not to the cloth, and all flare and fullness is in the back, where it is held in place by elastic bands that extend from plait to plait and are covered with silk, pieces from the skirt-lining being utilized. Butif a hand- some tailor gown is desired the very newest fashion for a basque is known as The Russian Fatigue Coat. Not having seen one I quote a descrip- tion from an undisputed authority, which Iadvise you to study carefully to begin with: “It is tight-fitting, with high, straight collar, buttons across the shoul- der, and from there in a slanting line down to the bottom of the coat, about five inches below the waist. The buttonholes are under a fly, and the buttons, which are of lasting, do not show. Frogs of black braid, beginning with a long one, reach from ehoulder to shouider and grad- ually grow smaller. The collar has a sin- gle line of braid at the extreme top, which joins a 1oop on the top corners in front and comes down the edge on each side of the opening, which is directly in fromt. The sleeves are moderate coat sieeves, and have a single line of braid around the edge, which runs mp about six inches on the side, forming a pattern to match front braiding. The seam on either side of the back seam is covered with braid which forms a trefoil pattern top and bottom. The bottom of the coat is plain and fits. the figure smoothly over the hips. There is neither braid nor stitching on it. In the center of the back is a double boxplait lying flat.”” The skurt is absolutely plain, but perfect in every respect. A rough material of a slate color with a bairy surface, known as Oxford, is the most fashionable material for tailor gowns. The leading tailors put no stiffening in the basques, as the lining used, an excel- lent quality of satin, is all that is neces- sary. Buttonhole flowers are not now a bunch of violets, lilies of the valley being the fashion. London Cloth Models. The English tailors certainly make a great success of cloth gowns. About some of the latest I am sure you will be glad to hear when you know that they emanate from a celebrated Oxfora-street house. Imagine how appropriate for a handsome brunette would be a costume made of a bright shade of blue cloth—almost Prus- sianblue! Itis braided in black, and in form the copt is suggestive of a very smart mess jacket. The neck-band and cuffs are of dark red, covered most effect- ively with a black braiding. The skirt is absolutely plain. Mushroom-tinted cloth is emnloyed in the composition of & gown made with a bodice boiero set into tucks showing a yoke of the new shade of oright grassy xreen velvet covered with cream-colored lace. Narrower iace of the same tone forms a little frill down the side, caught here and there with two tiny bows of the green veivet. The waistband is made of black satin. Of black and buff material is a good dress. On the hips are two narrow straps of black satin, apparently held in place with buttons at the back. Lt is caught into two little puffings. Tbe bodice is made with a sort of corselet formed o. | epaulette. three straps of black satin ribbon, made somewhat in zouave form, with revers faced with biscuit-colored cloth braided in black, showing a pieated waistcoat of black satin, which fastens double-breasted at the waist, while & sash of black satin | bangsto the hem. Taken all in all, this is & most satisfactory creation, as is like- wise a quaint little Eton jacket of black velvet, which has every seam outlined with black and silver braid. Silver but- tons of beautiful workmanship hold it together at the waist. The mousquetsaire sleeve, about which I wrote last week, has created no little com- ment, and I have been urged to give an illustration, so I have procured one, and for the benefit of those who did not see the paragraph to which I allude I repeat. “A novelty in ball-gown sleeves is a boon always. This season’s creation isa long lace mousquetaire sleeve falling well over the hand. The lace, for instance, will be black, paillette in bright or dead silver, the spangles of the smallest size. The sleeve will reach above the elbow only on the top of the arm, but will pass underneath and attach itself to a lace The effect of the ellipse of bare arm is'charming, and the sieeve most gracelul, giving that length of arm which adds so much to one's height. Thers has been a disposition to discard these long sleeves on evening (full covered with diamonds formed the low bodice. The sleeves, of gauze plisse, reached the elbow. A Princess who was present, wore a rarely beautiful white moire, which had a flowing pattern of mauve and pink leaves lightly embroidered with tiny spangles of gold and silver. The skirt was cut accord- ing to the very latest mode, being plain on the hips with three small pleats at the back, but they did not form godets. I was demi-trained and lined with mauve satin. The bodice was low and pointed, and had a most artistic spangled plastron of mauve. Round the neck was a full ruche of the same, roses and violets mingled with the gauze. §1The sleeves were short and slightly puffed. Another pretty woman wore over sea-green silk a simply ravishingly beauti- ful net embroidered in real opals, with ruches of lace, And herelet me remark that ruches are enjoying a great amount of popularity, and the old-fashioned idea of wearing a band of black velvet around the throat, held in place by a jewel or a jeweled ornament, threatens to be the style again. On another festive occasion a leader of fashion was gowned in a vert d’eau bro- cade; the long skirt had a quille in front and many flowers were employed about the bodice, but flowers are never out of fashion and always lovely. The slippers ‘k % R i I L Elegant robe de chambre of black satin like the color. gowns has alarge white satin directoire collar braided with gold and edged with lace. back s princess shape, but the fronts fall straight. or colored wool. This latest design for house The The slesves are gathered into cuffs braide. dre-s) gowns on the part of certain New York leaders of fashion; but all Paris mondatnes, on the contrary, noted for | their elegance have adopted ther with the utmost chic. Perhaps the proverbial six months or & year must pass over our heads before we awaken to the beauty of them.” Toilettes at a Parisian Din- ner Party. Last month the very hospitable Marquise de Brod gave a dinner, at which the gowns of fher fair guests were veritable models of Parisian raste and elegance. The hostess received in a rich black Lyons velvet dress lined with white satin. The skirt was very long, and all the seams were concealed by & narrow ruching of black gauze chiffon, and here and there in the ruche diamonds gleamed. Gauze chiffon plisse and bretelles of satin literally SPRING WALKING GOWNS, Tweed costume with braided bolero and white kid vest. Plain sleeves with three epaulette frills. White braided collar and brocade vest. sloeves and fronts. Twine-colored guipure in bolero shape 18 set on each front, worn with this conception were of dark- green satin, embroidered at the tips; the stockings were mauve. Continuing the subject of evening gowns a correspondent states thaton another occasion a fair countess wore pink moire becomingly fashioned. The sleeves opened on the side over a panel of soft pink gauze plisse, which simulated an underskirt, and was bordered with two rows of gold embroid- ery, which sparkled with jewels. At the left side the bodice had a draperv of pink gauze, and on the right one of gold lace, richly jeweled. The short sieeves were puffs of gauze held in at interyals with pink ribbons. Pink feathers composed the fan and the necklace and tiara were of pearls. The pink satin shoes, spangled with gold, were worn with pink silk stockings having inser- tions of Valencienneslace. Thelong pink- ish-white gloves had bracelet fastening. With this toilette was worn-a short cloak and pelerine of bright pink ottoman, hay- ing an edging of chine white silk and quite an amount of white chenille em- broidery and shaded posies. In front were tulle quills wrought with gold and sur- rpunded with white feathers. Pink gauze formed a double ruche around the neck; it was plisse and fell on either side of the quills. Shoes and Slippers. Bronze is again being quite extensively used for dancing slippers, as it has the effect of narrowing and making the feet |- look small. Satin is liked for these prop- erties also, and has the advantages of being more comfortable and pliant to dance in; besides, when satin slippers match the gown nothing can be prettier. Many are now most gracetully and artis- tically embroidered with imitation jewels by the fair owners. Of course the fronts only are so adorned. It would be well to remember that only tiny buckles of paste or steel ornament the best shoes, the huge affairs being no longer seen, although a leading shoemaker tried & f=w days ago to induce me to invest in a pair. A tiny bow, nicely incrusted with jewels, is also in good taste. The demand for laced shoes is Iargely on the increase, for more women are in- dulging in long walks, and the support given by a laced choe is considerably greater than that given by a buttoned one, and since skating has been the vogue East many who have not strong ankies are wearing laced boots that also button, as it is thought that by first of all lacing the boot beneath and then buttoning a flap overitan immense amount of support is afforded. This may be the case, but the combination arrangement must make the average ankle look rather clumsy. So many cases of illness are traceable to thin-soled shoes that physicians are uni- versally prescribing, not huge, clumsy ones, but those having soles that will afford sufficient protection to the foot. In years gone by no wonder so many lovely young girls died from consumption, for it was then the fashion to wear soles not thicker than a sheet of paper, and d.licate women would go siraight from their furnace-heated, velvet-carpeted homes out into the bitter cold and stand chatting, perhaps, on the snowy sidewalk, with results that are not to be wondered at. The matrons and maidens of this period show far more common-sense, for which they are to be commended. The Modern Smart Woman. Her duties are ably and briefly reiated by that excellent English paper, the St. James Budget. It states: “Of course, the smart woman must dress well and must be quick at repartee and ready- *| gems and fabrics as their only m witted, with the art of saying the right thing at the right time. She must be pretty well up 1n the scandals of the hour and the novels, a good playef of outdoor and indoor games and possessed of a ca- pacity for taking trouble in order to pre- vent herself being bored. Small talk must, of course, be in her equipment and she must cultivate the art of being agree- ableall round. Indeed, the profession of smart woman is a most difficult oneto adopt and a girl should ponder well before going in for ir.” MARCELLA. Styfes for Men. Scarfpins are not zs fashionable as they used to be for men, but a fine pearl or smooth ball may be worn. I beard a few days ago of a well-known San Pranciscan who has recently returned from his first visit to a great city many miles from hefe. He has many things to relate concerning his travels and numerous are the curios, etc., collected by him, but I think his most valuable acqui- sitions are his shirts with attached cuffs and properly fitting collars; indeed, he admits himself that he never knew how comfortable a good collar was until his visit to a well-known haberdasher's. I wish I could impress it on you all that the majority of men do not pay a proper amount of attention to their linen, and how utterly useless to lavish care on other garments when their linen stamps them. In other cities a bank cierk would scorn to be seen with such cuffs as many a capi- talist wears with serenity, and as faras collars are concerned all of us have seen men wearing them too large, too high or too tight, without the smallest considera- tion of their style. Short-necked, fat, puffy men do look so miserable in collars 100 high for them, but perhaps not quite s0 absurd as do others with great thin necks disfigured with Adam’s apple, who wear the lowest possible neck dressing. I positively believe tnat chey would delight in Byronic collars. Men to look weil in the high-banded fold-over collars must have good necks and perfectly formed chins. SCARFS. Concerning these important articles Hig asks: “Do you know how to tie your scajis? If you do, skip this; but, as a matter of fact, few men know how to per- form this nice operation. They may be able to adjust the scarf in a fashion, but to get out of a silk all that there is in it one must know just how to lay out the scarf before he turns it over for the final adjustment. In making a bow bring the ends out square and even. In tying an Ascot be sure that the ends are even and absolutely true at the top of the center- piece before you cross them. If you do this the effect will be good. If you are at all careless in the first moves you will make a failure of your effort.” A critic remarks with much truth: “I have always noticed that when anything noticeably radical was introduced, it was killed as soon as it became popular. Its pure radicalism killed it. You cannot afford to wear anything that accentuates the mode. Overdoing dress is worse than | underdoing it. Your personal taste must not be allowed to dominate absolutely. | There are standards to conform to, and if | you conform to them with any degree of jndgment or taste, you will be weil | dressed. The well-dressed man is he who is dressed in such exquisite taste that his apparel does not attract attention. Peculiar ties, shirts, waistcoats and hats attract attention. So do diamonds and massive watch guards. I associate all these things with men who, lacking edu- cation, wit or refinement, cover them- selves with huge and giittering pieces of ans of at- 201G tracting attention 10 themselve: Arva E. KEITH.—Mme. Alma E. Keith an- nounces that spring Paris importations in fine inery are arriving daily at both stores, ng. Owing to the blunders of the company I had mine taken out. orders by messenger at my expense. s always, ALMA KEITH. bl NEW TO-DA’ [mperial Hair Regenerator will make the bair beauti- tul, glossy and natural, no matter how Streaky, BL ACHEDoOr GRAY it mey be. It is clean, odorless, last- ng. Itdoesnotcontain an atom of Poisonous matter. Baths do’ not affect it neither does curling or | crimping. Incomparable forthe Bio ARD on account of its durability and clean- iness. No.1, Black. No. 2, Dark. Brown. No. 3, Medium Brown. No. 4,Chestnut No. 5, Light Chestnut. No. 6, Gold Rlonde. No. 7. Ash Blonde. Price §1 50 and £3 00. Sole Mannfacturers and Patentees: Imperial Chemical Mfg. Co., 292 Fifth av.. N. Y. For sale by Druggists and Hairdressers. In San Francisco sold and applied by Stanislas Strozynski and Goldstein & Cohn. (Notice this to-day. This ad. may not appear again.) 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