The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 24, 1897, Page 24

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JANUARY 24, 1897. at away belov they are to tem hiriwa s are diffes colored blos becom women in th Oid Fabvios Revived. g back to our p “bare e “the thing” of as of ca we have a ndmothers seen, so that ana on of deep purg ppreciated. The colors , with the s are also sure them having elief by de- and shades Goods for Summer Maids. aids who asp: d the in wint style in 2d comfort otted Swiss rmer weather | 1 delight in the new | which is interlaced | with colored stripes, alternating various | kinds with flowers and leaves. There are | so many of “the new things” that I am at | to know which will please you best, | The new organdies are interlaced with | flowers of tints so natural that one won- | ders why the fragrance is not there, and it is a noticeable fact that the designers this | year have seemed to realize that tne beauty in floral patierns is not dependent upon the amount of flowers, but rather upon their artistic distribution. Most of the designs seen this coming summer will | be more delicate in treatment, and instead of seeing a mass of roses in & bunch, we shall see them in graceful clusters with leaves and buds trailing from the stem. 1 suppose I must say a word about the striped nainsooks, which, woven with stripes of almost- imperceptible fineness, are certainly very pleasing to the eye. And then there is 3 new fabric—mousselins de I'Inde—a kind of filmy net that will not crush out of shape. This is sure to be used extensively. “The ‘‘tea tray” is becoming fashion- able. I have long been convinced that women do not take sufficient food, ana the other day I noticed that Mrs. Lynn Linton was possessed with exactly the iea, and had begun a crusade tarving for comfort.” orrible Tray Habit. Mrs. Linton describes the *‘tray” in all its horrors. She explains that it produces unhappiness in the home and discomfort to the offender. Women have for ages called man a ‘‘beast,’’ the creature of his appetite, but I am thoroughly convinced that he has common-sense. If a woman has a day’s shopping to do, a solitary sar- dine with a little jam and a roll is not the proper kind of food to do it on, even it it is served on a tray, so that one can eat it in the bedroom 1n a costume more com- fortable than pretty. There is nothing like solid f00d, and if any one chooses to | think me too masculine because I eat a good steak for breakfast 1 don’t care a jot. Now there is Miss W—, a very nice girl, as you know, except that she is lazy. She has actually brought trouble on her- self and her family, simply because she is a victim to the ‘“tray.” Of course it would never do to tell the stories that are afloat, but it is really a fact that the ser- vants are doing as they please, simply be- cause they have got into the habit of never cooking anything when *‘master is away."” I have noticed, too, that half the women shoppers spoil their appstites by going round to various stores and tasting this thing and that until I do not believe they would know tne flavor of a well-cooked chop. But I must tell you something more about the fashions and stop preacii ing. New Presents Allowed. It has been thecause of much regret among the fair sex—at least many of them—that the fashion of the day had prevented women from accepting from a gentleman presents of a ‘“‘wearable” char- acter, such as.a new gown or a handsome bonnet. i‘or these there is at least a little comfort to be found in the new custom just sprung up of presenting a laay with a jeweled or enameled girdle, such as are fast becoming worn on the ontside of fur coats and cloaks. In regard to the receiv- ing of presents, men have always been more fortunate than women, but this | tainment, ; could | was so a season Dame Fashion has taken some- of aturn. There are good-luck now quite the thing for a lady d which take the most won- | in variety you can imagine. | s, small jeweled dageers, | ils of gold and gems, and a hundred \er oddities are all prepared, so that the | d no excuse for not his lady love with anything is *‘wearable.” Dining Off Bare Tables. | I am sure you will be pleased to hear that dinner parties are daily becoming | more fashionable, and also that the old | formal way of entertaining is becoming a | All the old somberness | ir of more | ward to a dinner party asa place whsmi must sit with gloomy face and not | until you are spoken to, as our | mothers used to tell nus when we were or I should say, when we were | the innovation of a little fun round | And . | a dinner table has given rise to other inno- | The very latest at dinners is to sert on a polished table with the cioth removed. This fashion has received f approval from the very h est of the “‘bon ton” sst, in fact was first introduced, or rather reintrodueed, for it is oid-time custom of the Princess of es. Many young hostesses have d because their handsome tables | e hidden beueath a linen cloth, and of | course no excuse would have been toler- ated that would allow of the showing of | the often handsome wood concealed | underneath. | New Floral Decorations. The newest modes ot floral arrangement | for use at dinners are also adding not a | litde to the charm of this form of enter- some of those seen at the| really first-class dinners being specimens | of the most fairy-like loveliness. In fact, | it is difficult to imagine how human hands | make them so delcately. One, which I saw the other day, in particular | took my fancy. It was a rustic stand esa | center piece frosted over, and glittering | like a diamond in the pale moonlight. It | nged thata deep slender basket | was held aloft by sticks all frosted and | looking perfectly ural. The basket | concealed a tin can, inside of which grew several trailing piants and flowers, formed | into a parti-colored horseshoe, the whole | being brightened by the light of a dozen tiny fairy lamps gracefully hidden in the leaves and blossoms. The whole thing is vations. w0 lizht and airy in appearance that it | these now delightfally pretty garments | china stores. seemed as if the slightest breath would | destroy it, and it has the advantage of not | | woman; | used. | th opposite sides of the table. There are many of these stands in use, all kinds of designs being seen, and they are also & most econcmical kind of decoration. Sometimes they are placed on a largo mirror, and this adds to their attractive- ness. Hand-Glass Indispensable. Ihave something on my mind. It is | this: That I ought to write on the abso- lute necessity of a hand-glass to every not that I think that every woman makes up, but a hand-glass is as searching as the public eye if properly It reveals all the faults of our ap- pearance without jear or favor, and this is 2 good thing sometimes. We must al coufess that we like to look as well as pos- | sible, and we must also confess, if we be | truthful, that there are only a few of us who donot now and then use a touch of powder. What we do wish to insist op is that no trace of powder can ever be on our faces. And this is where the hand- glass is indispensable. There is no doubt that a little powder—and I think a little rouge now and then—adds cousiderably to the appearance, but for the sake of woman- hood, do not go on the street after apply- ing either without first consulting a hand- mirror. Do mnot satisfied with a ba | full-length pierglaes; these are deceptive things. Get a hand-mirror and . stand { with your back to the light, letting its penetrating rays tell their own tale. 1f vou take my advice you will never have cause to blush beczuse some spiteful old inz on a streetcar says with a smile, Ixcuse me, my dear, but your powder is rather patchy on your forehead.” The Latest in Shoes. fore I say good-by to you I must teil you something about the various pat- terns and kinds of shoes I have seen re- cently. Nothing makes a woman look so neat as & pretty shoe, and no one article of dress can so eifectively destroy the whole appsarance if it is ill-fitting or ugly in shape. I will not speak of walking-shoes, be- cause we all have our own peculiarities in this regard and black 1s the only winter wear, but in the Qress shoe every con- ceivable tinfNs to be seen, and you may be surprised to know that our fooiwear | can now be adorned by jewels without being considered vulgar. One of the most charming shoes I ha seen this season is of soft pink kid, e broidered with pale green beads on the toe in the form of a triangle. An ideal | shoe for a bride is of white satin, richly embroidered with dismonds and pearl- hea Another, perhaps prettier, is of white satin embroidered with jewels of different colors, in the form of a butterfly. Many persons do not like to wear white shoes by lacge, and for these I would bespeak the white kid embroidered on the toe with black beads. Besides looking very pretty these shoes arc also less expensive than the others I have mentioned. Bronze leather will of course always have its ad- vocates, it shade and making such a delightful com= bination when a topaz is the jewel used. You expect me to say something about | jewels now, but I shall disappoint you, leaving that for another time. ETINCELLE. Bed dJdackets. Many women really do look better in than at any other time, for they are made, frequently, of the most deliciously arti: ause they make the feet look | striped, interwoven with wool. These are usually embroidered in silks of a con- trasting color and adorned with lace frills or muslin frills edged with lace. How- ever, some find such jackets too warm, and prefer those of soft silk lined with nun’s veilinz, beautified with either a Irill of the silk, lace edged, or one of Valenciennes lace, which is really more becoming. The flanngl jackets are, many of them, elaborately embroidered in white filoselle or washing silk, when the scal- loped border should have a frill of lace. A few years ago very little attention was paid to our bedroom attire. Now old- fashioned and entirely out-of-date is the woman who does not have the latest sleeves in her nightgowns, and the most modish of lace or embroidery. At the present moment real Valenciennes is the most stylish, and the yckes of such robes are veritable works of art. Naturally the bed jackets must likewise follow every change advocated by Mme. La Mode, so this winter they are cut so as to reach the walst, of a somewhat Eton shape, and some have a round, turned-down collar. The palest of blue or pink bengeline will make a dainty garment when either creamy lace or chiffon matching the ben- galine is utilized. A chiffon fichu, tying browns, greens and yellows blend to- gether. The shapes of the vases, ewers, pitchers, teapots, jardinieres, etc., are graceful enough to serve as models, and the prices are most ridiculously low, $1 50 securing & really lovely bit. A large shipment has been sent East, and as many of us will soon be thinking of our summer homes, I strongly advocate an investization of the Stockton venture, for.a dear squat pitcher would be an ornament for any table, and a graceful, tulip-shaped vase would increasefhe beauty of a handful of wildflowers or ferns very materially. As soon as I saw the numerous designs I made the remark that steins would be extremely appropriate and would be well received, and I have suggested to a friend, who is about tc furnish a houseboat, that nothing could be found that would Pe more artistic than this delightful ware in her rooms, which are to be hung some with blue and some with green denim. A low fernpot and a handsome jardiniere sent to Eastern friends were received with many expressions of admiration and pre- dictions that the ware would in due time rivai the-Rockwood, and it is certainly to be hoped that, as we have many excellent artists here who could be induced to in front with long ends, much rufiled, isdecorate such productions, ere long Cali- pointed basque is of the brocade. The ur sleeves, whick are cove: the jacket are all wired. The beit is black. Dainty tea jacket made in peach-colored brocade bordered by a puffing of chiffo 4 by gathered chiffon, 1der bodice is of cream-coiored satin; The large satin collar and the frout of becoming, The full sleeves must be like- wise trimmed. For real comfort such jackets should be lined with nun’s v ing, as it 1 preferable to flannel as a lix ing. Vivella is a fabric much used and highiy recommended. It can bs had in .mos satisfactory shades of blue and pink, and | when sufficient thought is bestowed on its | tory jackets at about one-third the e | pense involved by those of silk, bengaline and chiffon. Stockton Ware. Those desirous of encouraging home in- [ dustry and enterprise would do well to | patronize thisexcellent production, which |is on saleat one of our large glass and At first glance every one | thinks it Rookwood, but judges of such | things declare that its glaze is superior, | fornia may be known far and near for her | beaun:ful pottery. MARCELLA. | Bedroom Slippers Should in all cases match the dressing | gown, for no longer will a pretty foot | permit itself to be shod incorrectly, even | in the seclusion of the bedroom. As a re- | salt slippers of quilted satin with a buckle being such an economical | beautification makes most truly satisfac- |drawn through the bow at the top are | popular, but if instead a cloth slipper only can be afforded it can be made more | sightly by adding an edging of white fur. | " Turkish stippers are worn by some, but | all must find them both hard and uncom- ‘ fortable, besides they are cold to put on. Knitted and crocheted slippers are some- times comfortable and sightly, but they are easily penetrated by pins, etc., and | tue flzece-lined soles are very heatine and many find them extremely uncomfortable, | However, the prettiest I have seen are the hiding from each other those sitting at | tic materiais—silken on the suiface andiaud truly beautifully do the artistic ) waftle-iron pattern, donme in two artistic 1. White bengaline bridesmaid’s costume. The skirt has three ruchings of white chiffon. The full chiffon bodice is confined by a waistband of pale blue velvet and the bolero slashed up the back is trimmed with a full ruche and double frill of the chiffon. The close fitting satin sleeves covered with gathered chiffon are finished at the wrist with double frills and satin butterfly puffs at the top. The white felt hat is trimmed with feathers and blue velvet. 2. Bridal gown of white satin, The trained skirt 1s trimmed with flounce of mousseline de soie surmounted by a spray of orange flowers. The bodice is trimmed with a spray of the same. The sleeves are gathered their entire length and surmounted by two flounces of the mousseline. White tulle veil ana white suede gloves. 3. The bridc’s golng-away costume. This costume, & spring model, is of fawn-colored cloth made with a plain new skirt. The zouave bodice and Swiss belt of gold tissue, embroidered with sequins and lace applications, is bordered with black embroidered ribbon and Valenciennes lace with shaded green sequins. The full vest of white mousseline de soie has lingerie tucks and a collar of draped mousseline. The very smart visite-like coat, tight-fitting at the back, where it is pleated into a full basqus in the center, crosses over in front and fastens at the left side under a deep folded sash of black velvet. The coat and wide cape slecves sre trimmed all round with a pand of black Persian lamb, and the rolled collar, faced with black velvet, has a big black velvet bow underneath at the back. A pretty, fancy muft of the fawn clotn, lined with shot mauve and gold silk, and trimmed with pinked-out frilis of cloth and silk, has two bands of the fur, and a bow of black velvet ribbon, caught through a pearl and old paste orfiment. The becoming black velvet Henri II het, cut in square tabs around the brim and piped with black satin, is turned up at one side with a cluster of tiny black ostrich tips, ana the soft, pleated crown has a band of black satin tied round it clasped by an old paste buckle, CITYOF shades; the toes are pointed and the long- eared bows of ribbon are becoming to most feet when properly placed below the full ruched top, and for those suffering from cold feet the night slippers made of fine wool without soles are a great com- fort, I have been told. MARCELLA. Styles for Men. Brown and tan kids as well as tne snede are still the most fashionable, and the fad of the heavy white kid gloves for afternoon wear is almost & ching of the past, they having become far too common. Him is at present in California, and 0 in due course of time we may expect to read his able criticismson everytning, from our scarfpins to our dogearts, and speaking of pins reminds me of a remn}‘k ‘'made concerning them by this authority quite recently. He writes: “'Tie pins are becoming more elaborate, and friends write me that at some of the recent weddings thev received—acting as ushers—the most gorgeous affairs in dia- monds and rubies. For those who are about to marry, I would say that the smart dress this season consists of black frock coat, white double-breasted waist- coat, very light gray trousers and white four-in-hand ties. The ascois with their wide aprons and their narrow *V’ re re- served for afternoon dress proper—that s, for teas and calling and ‘the like.” ” Him likewise informs us that ‘the double-breasted white duck waistcoat has become universal. Men wear the hich- necked ones with afternoon- dress, the low U shaped with evening. The night before 1 left I was at the opera, and 1 saw every- where around me this array of white and | black, but on no one did I perceive the embroidered silk or satin. We have not come fo that yet, alihough before the ‘anis of the season I shall not be sed if there were some arrangem tof his kind. I say ‘arrangement’ puri by be- cause I am conservative, and ev u at the risk of being old-fashionea I may not ever be persuaded to change my spots.” Our leading haberdashers are making a brave display of ties, hose, pajamas, eic., and most show good taste and judgment in their selection. The pajamas made of a material which is half silk, half weol, give the most satisfaction, and when some color is liked, pink and white or pink and buff I can recommend, as pink washes much better than blue, which has a tendency to become almost white after one or two visits to the laundry. Colored socks are also liable to fade out with equal promptitude. Indeed, I have found the most expensive socks in shades of tan quite hideous after their first wash, and that wash was done at an excellent laundry. As a natural result black re- tains its place as first choice for ordinary wear. 3 I have just read of a cigarette-case of gun metal polished, concave in form, with a beantifully and artisticelly woven mono- gram in gold. The spring was a_small turquoise. To press upon such a hutton to obtain one's cigarettes was certainly a i delicious luxury. NEW TO-DAY--DRY GOODS. PARLY! CUT PRICES HOUSEKEEPING GOODS! 21x44 H. to... 21x40 BLEACHED DAMASK down to. 22x22-INCH BLEACHED DAMASK NAPKI 60-INCH HEAVY GERMAN LINEN D. t 11-4 HEAVY Q down to.. BROKEN LINES OF FRENCH, DOWN AND JERSEY Cut down to........ S. BLEACHED LINEN HUCK TOWELS. ALITY WHITE MARSEILLES QUILTS. e u 2om $3.00 Diien TOWELS, knotted fringe. Cut 89 40 {;er . D ozen S. Cutdown to. . Sl 93 i;eorzeu MASK, bleached. Cut down 600 ¥urd B ar Per Pair Cut QO X Por Pair FLANNEL. 350 COUNTRY ORDERS PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO. 55 X ATIL.A ESEPANOI. G. VERDIER & CO., SE. Corner Geary Street and Grant Avente. VILLE DE PARIS—Branch House, 223 S. Broadway, Los Angeles. make at least twenty, we believe, and if you can you will get a pres- ent any way, and if your list {5 the largest you $40.00 in cash. Here an follow: Use only words in the English Jan; Do not use any letters %)n a xord morex "]’-{‘E han Tt o n SEONSIBYE. " Wordg spelledalike can beused only once. Use any dictionary, and weallow to be counts proper Houns, pronouns. pres fixes, suffixes, ln{ Jegite imate word. his is the way: Responsible, Are yott g smert spell- er? We give $100 away in prizes to those able to ¢ the largest list of W rom the word RE- SPONSIBLE. ¥ S| MERIOAN WOMAN wil Eive away, on April 10, ho sum of $100, divided into 24 prizes for the Inrgest lists of words as above. $0to the per- son making the largest list; 810 for the second largest; 86 each for the et five Jargest listo: 88 earh for the 4 next larsest endsl for earh of the hext 13 largest lists, Wo want you to know our paper, and it is for this reason e offer these premiums, We make 10 extra chara Jor the privileze of entering this word-building con= Zest, but it Is necessary to send us 25 cents silyer or stamps, for which we will send you our handsoma illustrated 28 zine for six monihs, and ihovory dsy worecelve your romittance e wil mal ou free, & beautiful picture, entitied * The Forest anctusry,” 17x4inches a charming present. This offer 1s he greatest you have ever Liad made to you. Eend your list at once. If you win one of the prizes our name wi ue. 1l Bo publiahed in our May. Aarons THE AMPRICAY WOMAN, 119 and 191 Nassat §t., New York City, N. Y. $T50.00 BIVEN [Tl DO YoU WANT IT? You can get it in the W word contest. How x;nn cmfi:lifl‘;g words can you form from the nine let- ters in “WOMANKIND ' It's easy. Every contestant wins a prize. 2 Columbia Bicycles, Price $100 each. 1 Clevel cycle, Price $100. ege e ol ge Scholarship, §100. 1 gll:e‘r‘l‘el PEM. 9255. et Amer. Ency. Britta 3 1 Webster’s |nl0ry'l ch!io’ll!':l:'. “3!00. d more than 800 other prizes. Con- mfiigle%ws J&I‘a5 20, lSWi Send today sample copy of Wt i containing full particulars, * Addrems WOM:QNK'IN’D. Springfield, Ohio. Remember Eve: b : ry Contestant gets : i 00C0U00U0000U0CVVUUUDODUUUUTUUUUUDUOUDOUOUVVUOU Y ANO0DNNNONNANNANAANANANAAANANNDONDOODOODDNONAO iy 4 5 % LETEREAM sianidand T it o e e e | oo freckles and tan, prevents wrinkles andrenders the skin soft, smooth, ail Druggists. 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