The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 10, 1897, Page 24

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, New York and Parisian Models. As I have frequently stated, many gowns designed in New York are quite as excellent in every detail as any Parisian importations, and very foolish are many who seek the great dressmakers in Paris, for not unfrequently they pay high prices for what are known to rench women as “nightingales.” Indeed, unless one is thoroughly posted in many little things, and understands exactly what is most suitable and becoming, the results of shopping abroad are, to say the least, in many cases disastrous. 1 should explain that nightingales are garments left on hand a season or ago, and these are frequently passed off triumphantly on un- suspecting foreigners. Sometimes a little embroidery or trimming of a more recent date is sewn on, and for such creations from 1000 to 6000 francs are gladly paid by visitors, who would exclaim in horror were they asked half the sum at home, so whenever I bear of a pretty toilette being created by a New York dressmaker I like to fully describe the poem in harmonious colors, or in silk and Jace. Smith & Diilon have lately designed pretty frocks, as well as Martin, and this is what is said about them: Most exquisitely light and graceful in effect are the newest fashions in ball | gowns. Smith & Dillon have two models that are particularly noticeable; one in | shrimp-pink satin is made with bodice | covered with pink chiffon embroidered in | pearls, with an empiecement of lace in | the back, and a broad draped belt ofi the satin. The skirt is en traine, the sleeves of draped lace and pink-pleated | chiffon, ana the artificial flowers worn on | the gown are pink roses and yellow locust ; blossoms. | he second gown is of soft Liberty silk, very thin, made over stiff musiin and | trimmed in 2 most odd fashion with nar- | row bias ruffles edged with black velvet. A high girdle is of two shades of green taffeta, while the large bow is also of green trimmed with a narrow ruffle. White satin is used as much as ever, but | is, as a rule, covered with the sheerest of | netsand gauzes. Martin has a charming | gown for evening wear, the underskirt of | plisse satin, covered with gold spangles, while on 1t is an overskirt of very sheer net embroidered in green and gold spangles; on the back of the skirt are long sprays of scarlet poppies. The waist is of white satin embroidered in green | and silver, and spangled with gold, and softened by ruffles of tulle. The belt and bow are of green velvet, and in shary but striking contrast are scarlet poppies which extend over the slebves. Evening Gowns. From other sources come descriptions of evening costumes that cannot fail to be | interesting to those who entertain or go out a great deal, as to fashion’s votaries every suggestion is valuable that conveys the merest suggestion of novelty. To be- gn with, at a grand dinner party given wvery recently at a delightful chateau not far from Paris several of the toilettes worn were so truly lovely that all Paris has been | discussing them. A handsome Countess gowned in white satin, worked with an arrapesque pattern in silver spangles and seed pearls; the low bodice had & drapery ! in front that matched. From the shoul- ders fell a mass of gauze bouillonne. The waist was slightly pointed, and at the back of the skirt fell a large lace scarf. The short sleeves were composed of a bouillonne of lace and gauze. The long kid gloves had a small monogram em- broidered at the top. This fashion will meet with general favor, a crest being used by many. Delightfully pretty was a dainty woman who appeared in a cloud of pink tulle, caught up here and there with rosebuds and knots of pearis over pink moire. The low bodice had a wreath of roses buried in pink tulle around the nack and shoul- ders. The waistband wasof white satin, and small and short were the sleeves. A frock of white crepe lisse, accordion plaited over white satin, was much ad- mired. The crepe lisse fell loosely over the satin, not being fastened to it in any way. Also plisse was the low bodice, round the shoulders of which was an embroidery of small white and golda beads, intermixed with spangles. Quite novel 1n effect was another toilette of crepe lisse.plisse, which consisted of a black skirt oyver which was a white one. The corsage matched per- fectly. Over it was worn a figaro of black velvet, jet studded. This jacket was very large—quite different from the short, | jaunty affairs so frequently seen. T. Costumes at a Soiree. A soiree given at another delightful coun- try house was the occasion for the discus- sion of more creations, but the three specially worthy of remark consisted of, first, & rich dress of flame-red and black brocade, made with a long, plain skirt, lined with flame-colored taffeta, and a low bodice adorned with a row of sable and a fall of point a’ Alencon round the neck. -The elbow sieeves had flounces of Alencon. Of feuille de rose Yampas was the second, which had a magnificent flounce, very wide, of point d’Angleterre; it extended half way up the skirt and was apparently held in place by several bows of pink satin. The bodice was low with a small lace bolero that revealed a front en- riched with sparkling gems, The third conception was worn by a youthful debutante and consisted of a maize-colored crepe absolutely covered with an all-over embroidery of cream silk, the low square- " cat bodice had a border of galon crepe, embroidered with seed pearls and silk. The sleeves were puffed, but of a very modest size. The Krenchy touch was imparted by a burch of roses pinned at the left side of the corsage and a wide corselet of pink faille, which was tied in jnuffy balls of chiffon. ‘the back, the long fringed ends xeuchingi the bottom of the skirt. | Blouses and Bodices. | Here some lovely blouses have of late been noted. One in tucked turquoise blue chiffon is made over blue taffeta | having & silvery sheen. ‘The most delicate insertions of creamy lace en- | circle the wearer's slender fizure. Round | the waist and throat are taffeta ribbon, edged with quilling: lace. A | blouse, with a “botticelli” neck, has long | sleeves and is composed of serpentine ac- | cordion - pleated white cmiffon, draped | longitudinslly on a lining of white silk | and finished with butter-colored valen- ciennes. Quite fetching is a low-necked bodice with a fussy little basque of frilled chif- fon. Baby ribbon is extensively used in its construction, and the sleeves look like A charming ma- tron looks her prettiest in a boaice of gray tulle finely accordion pleated, trimmed with pink'satin ribbon embroid- ered with silver and opal spangles. Pink poppies with silver pistils are gracefully trained over the leit shoulder. I also like a bodice with a vest and collar of the palest pink chiffon bordered with a friil of lace. Beneath the bust scarfs ot the chiffon cross to vanish in the belt, edged with biack velvet ribbon and tied in the front. The sleeves of this and the bodice are of a novelty silk of a rich, beautiful texture, and the collar, which is wired so as to stand up round the throat, shows a double frill of the chiffon and lace. Indeed, nine out of every ten blouses and bodices are mainly composed of lace and chiffon. A debutante’s bodice which will be much admired shortly is of a chiffon covered with Marechal Niel rosebuds scattered over a green ground. It has an overbodice of pale yellow lace, threaded at intervals with green ribbons. I¢ pouches slightly in the front and displays a vest of thechiffon, outlined with a double frill of lace. Lace is also used to make long sash ends at the back, frilled with the chiffon, threaded with the ribbon. Very Frenchy is an evening bodice of white chiffon, with a short bolero of black lisse, with an applique of cream lace all overit. The waist is trimmed with black velvet ribbons. A dinner bodice in white moire chine Pompadour has Joose fronts of green vel- vet of one of the beautiful new shades, with fine appligue guipure jabot and riviere of ivory lace. Another is of a fancy green and blue check velvet Zouave with odd little capes edged with Valen- ciennes lace. The undervest is of blue ac- cordion-pleated chiffon, and tbe buttons are of lapus lazuli. The sleeves are of the new puffed style and’are of the velvet. For morning wear & bodice of prune- colored cloth has lapels of moire antique. The soft vest of surah has many rows of shirring, which forms the yoke, from which the vest falls softly. Tue belt is of the moire. * Another model is made of a novel pink silk, baving a quaint design of a setting sun interspersed irregularly with fine black lines. The belt and revers are | trimmed with narrow black velvet rib. bons, and a little frilling of chiffon bor- ders the bolero. From Paris is a chic coat bodice, rather Louis XVIincut. Itis of a new shade of violet velvet, beautified with an applique of black velvet irises, which ap- pear to spring from the pearl satin corse- let at the waist line, The sleeyes are the regular ola-fashioned at coshape. At the throat is a crush collar of the satin, and down the front dead white lace is jaboted over the satin, making an ex- quisite vest. The bodice is lined with the same. The skirt is of a beautiful quality of satin cloth exactly matching the satin corselet. Concerning the cut of the bodice we are again to count on round, seamless bodices, draped on the straight edge of the ma- terial or on the bias, the fronts seldom meeting, but the vest or plastron spmce much less than it was last year. The most popular - addition of bodices is the bolero or Eton-jacket form, either separate or suggested by trim- ming. The lines of the figure are more clearly defined than they were last year, as the blouse fronts, old style, have en- tirely disappeared, and only a very slight blouse vest is observable. High belts and corselets are quite indispensable with roynd bodices. y Hats, Bonnets, Toques. During the early autumn there was quite a rage for shades of violet, but it rapidly became so common that it was panished from many a fashionable woman’s wardrobe, with, however, sincere regret, as it was ‘‘sweetly becoming” to GIRL " ACCORDIO PLEATED WHITE CHIFFON OVER WHITE not a few. As a result, “Eveque violet” i now the color most affected in Paris, for all stylish millinery, and veiy charming are the creations evolved from judicious com- binations of velvet, tulle and flowers, in this shade. The flowers most frequently employed are irises, the pale mauve and the rich violet making a harmonious whole. The flowers are grouped en masse be- ueath the brim in front of the hat. This season all the shapes are made so as to allow the arrangement of flowers or rib- bon bows near the face and not as cache- vignes as they have been worn for so long a time. Black and White Straw Is a deeided novelty, trimmed with a large bow of scarlet velvet ribbon placed some- what to the Jett side. The back of such a hat must be well raised and finished off with numerous loops of gauze ribbon. Golden brown fluted straw will, I hear, be very popular, trimmed with gauze ribbon and bunches of scarlet hips and haws. Positively, this is the first time I bave heard of hips and haws, but I find that hips are the iruit of the dog rose and haws are the berry and seed of the hawthorn, so doubtless the result ob- tained by placing them together is artistic. Mistletoe with its berries and leaves trims many of the larger hats, but it is worthy of note that the so-called large hats are much diminished in size this winter. The question frequently asked as to what is the difference between the “'toquet’’ and the ““grand chapeau’’ may be very briefly answered, as it lies bul in the existence of a narrow, flat brim. Numer- ous are the hats now being made of col- ored velvet, adorned with a pair of feath- ers that exactly match the shade of the velvet; they are arranged en aigrette; Others are of black silk beaver with three or four black silk feathers falling over the side or at the back of the brim; these are hideous affairs, I assure you, at least they do not please me in theleast, but are becoming doubtless to some faces. however, at times, I thoroughly appre- UNDAY, JANUARY 10, 1897. ciate how Lord Byron felt when he declared that no woman with a vestige of beauty should ever dis- figure herself by wearing either a hat or a bonnet; instead he advocates throwing over the hair gracefully a light scari of either white or black lace. We all admit the effectiveness of such scarfs, nevertheless for the present hats or bon- nets we must wear, but they should be chosen with real care and much discretion, and I consider it a waste of both time and money to try and remodel or have remodeled either one or the other, as nothing about a woman so quickly announces the fact that it has seen a previous season as her headgear, which must be thoroughly correct in every respect, and chic or dainty, as the occasion demands. Many handsome hats of black velvet, lately commented on in New York, are beautified with large turquoise orna- ments that hold in place a featheraigrette. These ornaments are frequently very costly, consisting as they do of genuine picked stones of fine quality mounted with diamonds. Last year at a fashionable wed- ding the Princess of Wales wore a bonmet which_had the tiny brim studded with diamond of rare beauty. As a result this idea is now being carried out for not only several prominent personages but also for many of fashion’s leaders who have large jewel caskets. Needless to remark this mode will never betome common, and I trust no tawdry imitations will ever be attempted. Jeweled bonnet-pins have been as fashion- able as ever for holiday remembrances. Every one is commenting on the fact that the felt hats are quite astonishingly bright in coloz. Scarlet mingles with blue, and scintilating steel and paste orna- ments are conspicuously displayed. Sable tails are seen on all sorts and conditions of hats. Sealskin hats are correct when made like close toques. = Speaking of toques reminds me that among the loveli- est things in the trousseau of a recent bride was one of the new white “‘crocodile” velvet. It has a brim of dark sable, just showing glimpses of a rouleau of rose pink velvet. One side is caught up with a bunch of shaded violetsand a small plume of white ostrich plumes. I have | just read of a chapean which is of a dove- colored felt, the crown being of antique velours. In the front is a large lace bow; at the back are tucked, next to the hair, violets and pink roses. Oh, just one more toque must I mention, as itis quite chic, its crown baing of richly embroidered vel- vet, edged with sable, beneath which are shaded velvet flowers that carry out the coloring of ths embroidery; at one side a knot of lace apparently holds in place a vird of paradise plume. The latest Parisian novelty in veils is to be bad in fine cream,. pink or biue gauze, with small dots of black chenille. Nowadays we do not leaye our milliner's after selecting hats or bonnets; we linger over the dainty collets, And quite charming chic are many of the delightfal conceptions, as, for instance, fur certainly mingles wonderfully well ‘with numerous pretty materials and trim- mings, and with truth it may be said that this season all the young girls particu- larly present such sweet attractiveness in their high collars and ruffled neck and shoulders that the onlooker wonders where the plain faces have gone, as one is never seen anywhere. Likewise is it a fact that faces are soft- ened and figures improved by these means, for the lace, fur.and flowers have a happy effect on stolid, expressionless counte- nances, and figures are declared to obtain better hues from the width gained at the shoulders, which always produces the effect of slenderness. Vogue dilates on economy in collars: Economically viewed, two sets of these .| collars, with muffs to match, will assist a small wardrobe in a marvelous manner— and that is what so many girls have de- ruches, ete. and = equally cided upon. For street wear, church, shopping and general going abont mouf- flon looks its best worn next to pretty young faces, and its gray shadings go well with every gown and jacket, as we see con- stantly wherever we go. For paying visits and all dressy purposes each one must be governed by her toilet in selecting or making for nerself these pretty little ac- quisitions to be worn with it. A charm- ing model, and not an extravagant one. which I happen to know intimately—the hanaiwork of the clever girl so often quoted—though reaching more iuto the region of a shoulder-cape, is all the more coquettish and picturesque. You are to imagine the loveliest warm pigeon-gray velvet—and of that the foundation cape is built, warmly wadded in wool and lined with a plush-pink brocade. On this cape are five bias gathered flounces of the same velvet, lined with satin to match: and the lower flounce or ruffle—for they are not more than five inches wide—is set on the extreme edge of theé cape. The neck is finished with a double velvet ruffle, formed inte a high collar, and plisse rufflings of gray chiffon curl over and between in the softest way, extending down both frontsto the bottom. MARCELLA. Romance of the Great Oil Fields. Oil operations ‘in the field resemble nothing so much as military operations, says the Pittsburg Dispatch. When a new field has been discovered, remote from civilization cr an inhabited country, the genius of the o1l ploneer shines forth. He cuts roads through trackless forests, strings telegraph wires, climbs moun- tains and spans waters with pipe lines. He builds temporary towns, which some- times become permanent. One lucky strike has made a millionaire out of a la- borer in a night, but the change in his condition has hardly been swifter than the change of a barren wilderness to a land flowing with mi'k and honey—and oil. Romanticand picturesquein the extreme was therise and fall of the Cherry Grove field. Bo sudden were the changes they rose the dramatic. Cherry Grove is in Warren County. Years before a cherry grove probably gave the place its name, but when Grace, Dimick & Co. drilled a well here in 1882 the forest was a thick grove of hemlock. This was the first well drilled. It was located on lot No. 646. The well became a mystery whose fame has outlived the Cherry Grove field. When the well had been drilled in it was kept surrounded day and night with shotgun guards. Details of six men each, every man armed, patrolled the imme- diate vicinity of the well every hour of the twenty-four. Grace, Dimick & Co. had made what they believed to be a bonanza strike. They were determined to guard their secret, and the best way they thought to do that in the oil field was at the point of a gun. The shotgun guard only made rival firms more anxious to know what had been found on lot No. 646. And the rival firms succeeded. They obtained knowl- - dge of the dazzling prospect of immense wealth to be gained at Cherry Grove. The rivals associated under the name of the Anchor Oil Company, and on lot No. 647, adjoining the one on which the mys- terious well was located, another well was drilled. This ‘well ignited from a gas ex- plosion when drilled in, and for two weeks threw a pillar of fire in the air, consuming over 2000 barrels of oil a day. But that is another story. The wells were in the heart of a track- less wilderness, tke haunts of wildcats and owls. The Anchor well was nine miles from Clarendon on one side and nine miles from Sheffield on tue other. ut two farms in the township. er of the land was owned b Horton, ry & Co., tanners, of Sheffield, and the Farnsworth Panneries of Claren- on. : The latter had a plank road running seven miles into the forest, while the Hor- ton firm had a six-mile road through its land. There was also a township road, little better than a bridle path, running at right angles between the termini of the plank roads leading from Tiona to Ball- town. Oil flowed from the first well drilled— the mystery well—on May 19, 1882. In sixty days from that date, July 19, the Cherry Grove field was at the heicht of its production. It was yielaing 40,000 barrels daily. . - % o ¥ | To reach this result, behold the trans-| - jon ibat has taken place. The Clatendon_toad had been extendat to Garfield. The Cherry @rove Railroad had been built a distance of ten miles, from Tiona to Garfield. - The Farnsworth Rail- rond had peen built from Sheffield to Gar- field, a distance of thirteen miles. What had been a forest five miles wile was now inhabited by 10,000 people. There were drillers and pumpers, saloon-keepers and gamblers, butchers, bakers and candle- stick-makers, Where two months before traveters had to cut roads trough under- brush, roads were as numerous as streets in a large city. The National Transit Company had laid a four-inch pipe to Kane, a distance of forty miles. The same company had laid a three- inch pipe from tne field to Ciarendon, nine miles. A pumping station had been built with a battery of eight fifty-horse- ower boilers. Two dupiex pumps bad een put together and had a daily ca- pacity of 15,000 barrels each. 2 Two towns had been built within the limits of this tract—Garfield and Farns- worth. Each town had from 1500 to 1800 buildings. The struggie for wealth was at high tide. This Arabian night’s dream continued two months longer. On Sep- tember 19, exactly four months_after oil flowed from the mystery well, the death knell of tne Cherry Grove field wag sounded when the ‘intelligence spread that salt water had made its appearance in flowing wells. Almost as quickly as it had risen to greatness in oildom, the Cherry Grove field fell to its former condition—a good pluce for rabbits and squirrels. On the day when the disaster to the field became known 40,000,000 barrels of oil were in stock. The market, which had been de: pressed by the field, immediately ad- vancea 25 cenis. At an average of 25 cents a barrel this oil in stock alone repre- sented $10,000,000. Soon after that fol- lowed the famous boom to $1 35, which made and unmade hundieds of fortunes. All trades have their tricks, and the oil business is not the exception. When op- erators make a good strike and desire to lease surrounding territory as cheaply as possible, drilling is sometimes stopped and the well is plugged, and the story cir- culated that the well is a duster. Some- times a plug five feet long is lowered to the bottom of the well, and_is covered with sand several feet deep. In some cases the well is boarded up, and after a few weeks have elapsed the desired land is quietly leased. In the early days of oil excitement, when the name of Pithote was synony- mous with immense wealth, and when millionaires walked about 1n ' that neigh- borhood dressed in jeans, a rich field was offered to unscrupulous persons. To the credit of oil men it can be said that they, as a rule, were victims rather than aggressors. The swindlers were generally outsiders, who, after having schemed to get a little money, were never seen again in those parts, " A favorite trick of these swindlers was to go on selling shares in oil wells indefinitely. In those days an average well was worth much more than it 18 now, so that one-sixteenth or even one-thirty-second of a well might mean a snug fortune. It issaid that dur- ing tue Pithole days shares in wells were sold until forty of fiftw sixteenths had been sold. No one ever dreamea of hay- ing a swindler like that arrested, for the simple reason that it would not have paid. Every minute was precious, and meant thounsands of dollars to the bonanza oil produce: NEW TO-DAY--DRY GOODS. BLACK JACKETS,. lined with silk....... $2.50 MIXED CHEVIOTS, in gray and tan.... $3.50 BOUCLE JACKETS, latest cut.......... $6.00 HANDSOME FRENCH EMBROIDERED CAPES, tan and black......... -... $7.50 NAVY BLUE AND BLACK KERSEY, lined throughout with silk...........$10.00 TAILOR-MADE OUTING SUITS.. ...$10.00 ALL GARMENTS AND SUITS REDUCED., HALF PRICE. BROKEN LINES OF LADIES’, GENTS’ AND CHILDREN’S UNDER= WEAR AT HALF PRICE. COUNTRY ORDERS PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO. SE ETAaABI.A BESPANOI. G. VERDIER & CO., SE. Corner-Geary Street and Grant Avenae. VILLE DE PARIS—Branch House, 223 S. Broadway, Los Angeles. Freud's C(fiet House. SPECIAL SALE OF CORSETS. 200 DOZEN LADIES' PERFECT-FIT- TING FRENCH MODEL BLACK AND DRAB CORSETS. REDUCED FROM $1.75 TO $1. 107 dozen Perfect-fitting Black and Drab, regular price $1.50, will be closed at 75¢. 9108100 WIIVOR @ 398100 Fury AOID DOIVIQOIep §,uosduwrony, and Children. 2 g H g = & ¢ Braces for Ladies, Misses SPLOIAL SALE OF Corded Corset Waists and Shoulder Mail Orders recelve prompt attention. Iilustrated Catalogue malled free. MAKE NO MISTAKE IN OUR ADDRESS M. FREUD < SON, 742-744 Market st. and 10-12 Grant ave. (Notice this to-day. This ad. may not appear again. 190 FREE GOLD Who can form the greatest number of words from the letiers in ENDEAVORS? make twent; sure, and if you do you will receive & kood reward, Use noletter unless found In the word. Use no Ianguage except English. Use anv dictionary. 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It Is necessary for you, (o enter the contest, tosend 12 two-cent stamps' fora three-montis' trial subscription with your lisz of words, and any person sending the 24" cents and a list o7 twenty words or more s zuaranteed an extra present by return mail (in addition to the magazine) of & 176 page book, “Bevond Recall,” by Adeline Ser geant—& Powerfnl love romance. Satisfaction guaraniecd In every case or money refandel. Lists should be séntat once, and not later than March 15. The names and addresses of saccess: ful contestants will be printed In April issue, pub- lished in March. Our publication has been estab- lished nine years. We refer you to any mercan- tile agency for cur standing. Make your list now. Add - H PLUMMER, Publisher, 225-6-7 Temple Court Building, Dept. M. C X. Y. City, LAWRENCE SISTEM, The only one by which you can make a garment without trying on. FREE TESTS. 1231 MARKET $T. 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Sold by it Dragatau And at PACIFIC COAST AGENCY, Room Donohoe Building, 1170 Market 8t., S, F. COSMOFTOLITAIV, Opposite U. S. Mint, 100 and 102 Fifth st Saa Francisco, Cal. —The mos: select fa tol s mily hotel ia 5 and room 31, $1 25 sad 31 50 pur , according to room. Meals 25 oo o as Breomach e ns Ty 03 502 monolitan Hatsh - Wik FALEY, Erondeis PARIS! ~/-