The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 20, 1896, Page 26

24 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, DECEMBER 20, '1896. Gifts for Christmas. | “Munificence of giving may go hand in | hand with practical economy” writes one | suthority, but at this season to be practi- | cally economical is no easy matter, for as ; even our most critical of foreign visitors | admit Californians are lavishly generous, and of course at noseason is this sonotice- | able as at the approach of Christmas, but alas this- year the hard times will prevent | many of us from sending the usual dainty or belpful gift to much-loved friends; | however, Marcella has no intention of be- | ing depressing, quite the contrary, she wants to make a few suggestions that may prove useful to you all whether ricn, poor or just moderately well ‘off. To begin with remember that an appropriate gift, one that shows forethought in its selection, is far more prized than one bought in a business-like way to discharge some obligation. 1 was in one of our leading Kearny-street stores purchasing some chiffon not long ago when my attention was attracted by one of the most dehghtful grandfathers (I am cer:ain he was one). He was looking at some rarely beautiful collars of duchesse lace. How carefuily he adjusted his glasses and tried to discoveér which was quite the | most exquisite of all. He did not have to | give a thought to the prige, but how he “was trying to secure realiy the most lovely to be found, probably intending to send it in a Chnstmas-box for a bright-eyed granddaughter, who will prize that bit of lace long after the giver has passed out of her life. I wonder ik she will ever know how carefully it was se- lected. You see the season is making me sentimental,for, even if Ido usually discuss ruffles and frills, etc., most of the time I am not so awfully matter of fact after all. I left grandiather surrounded by the lace collars, but before I leave this subject I wish to suggest that lace will always be found to be an acceptable gift for women. A yard or =0 will make a fascinating cap, and a lace edge of mouchoir never comes amiss. Even just a scrap will edge the ends of a very fine bit of cambric, thus completing one of the pretty ties now so fashionable. For vouthful relatives not blessed with overmuch wealth are to be seen the sheerest, most lace-like of stitchings, on which you can spend as much as you please, so varied are the qualities to be had, and the dress patterns now being shown are to be had in almost every conceivable fabric, sensible, ser- viceable woolen twesds, the softest and most artistic of silks, etc. An acquaint- ance of mine, who has a small army of nieces, has purchased several bolts of the newest and loveliest of ribbons, and these she intends to divide in suitable lengths for the girlies. Who can doubt this aunt’s remembrances will be appreciated? Oh, there are thousands of suggestions that come crowding into my mind. However, all my space must not be given to cloth- ing, for some people greatly object to re- ceiving anything of the sort, even when their circumstances are far from flourish- ing, but just a word more on this topic. Cast a glance at the fairy-like slippers that were made for such just tootsies as M—’s, and the warm, softly lined, fur-edged satin ones that any invalid would be pteased with; and oh, do not forget that these deys every one requires an umbrela. Did you ever see such an assortment as are on exhibition ? And as for gloves, does any one ever have a_sufficient number of peirs? You know how I love glass and china, and indeed lives there a real, flesh and blood woman who does not? So when in doubt take my advice and, even if the gift is a smail one, seek a first-class store, and there you will see standing, al- most side by side, the very exquisite littie pieces of cut glass, and the great bowls, pitchers, plates and dishes that sparkle and gleam like huge diamonds, offering sore temptation to all who can understand their fascinating beauty; but the small olive dish, for not more than $3 or $4, is just as perfect in its way as the more am- bitious” articles. Numerous also are the choice bits of china—for example,a dear Jit- ule cafe noir cup will cost no more than some of the cards you sent a yearor so ago, and there are plaques and plates in be- wildering numbers, all worthy to bear our greetings to even the mosu fastidious, but when purchasing for those who are commonly alluded to as hay- ing everything you want a real novelty. Une of the most beautiful which has appeared for many years is the Vollenden wear. Each piece bears the name of some well-Known artist, and whether it is a gorgeous lamp, & superb vase, an in- cense-burner, or a wide-mouthed rose bowl, each and every piece is a gem well worthy a place in my lady’s cabinet among her most prized belongings col- Jected from foreign parts, for et it be known far and wide that the Vollenden wear is an American production. It will never flood the country, so few are the pieces of each kind that are ever made, so in seleciing such a present we can feel certain of never seeing a duplicate; in- deed you will feel as though you wanted every plece you see, so varied are the de- signs, so wonderful the coloring, so grace- ful the shaves. Also be sure to look at the great collection of beer mugs; you can purchase one very reasonably, or by a lit- tle heavier outlay, secure a very hand- some one, such a sensible trifle mrs. bachelor, who would also find a corner in his den for a royal Worcester tobacco jar or a corpulent-looking whisky jug. HAbout Delft Ware. You can find almost every conceivable article in Delft this season, from a hair- | brush with a Delit back to a branching candelabrum. There are complete diu- ner sets of it, vases, bowls, in truth every- thing you desire, including quaint plaques, on which are depicted scenes of New York taken 200 years ago. Now, if you can tear yourselves away from these studies in blue and white give a glance at the pretty work that comes straight from “the land of the midnight sun’’ and you are quite sure to invest. Articles in silver were never more inter- esting. Even the inexpensive bits are rarely excelled in workmanship, and the | quaint Danish, German and old bits of English silver that reach us here are worthy of the enthusiastic aamiration of the most critical. An ingenious contriv- ance that wounld be appreciated by many a paterfamilias is a mutton-bone hoider, which will prevent such a roast from wickedly waltzing all over the dish. Al-o there is the carnation cup. Buy one and | have the florist send it filied with say carnations or great California violets and maidenhair ferns and the receiver will be | certainly pleased. I wish I could go on talking about the varied and beautitul articles, but time flies, and, children, I have not forgotten you, bless your dear little hearts. Christ- mas belongs to you more than to any one else, but you want such a lot of toys ang goodies that your mothers and aunties re- quire no suggestions of any sort from me. You have told them exactly what you want, and they are certain to be busily employed purchasing everything, from a monkey running up a string to an elab- orate dollhouse, pair of ponies, ete. But before I tell about the frocks and other va- rieties dear to the feminine world let me wish you all a merry Christmasanda happy New Year. Worn on the Stage. Quite an event recently in Paiis was the representation of ‘‘Don Juan” at the Op- era Comique, and very handsome were some of the toilets. *“The beautiful mourning dress worn by Mlle. Marcy in the part of Donna Anna merits descrip- tion. It was black velvet in the renais- sance style, with large pattern; the skirt had a demi-train: at the sides puffs of black satin held in with diamonds,in front a biack satin tablier covered with jet and diamonds; the low bodice was long waisted, and had ‘a collar of white guipure worked with jet; the black velvet sleeves were slashed with satin, and the slashes bordered with jet. She wore a kind of Marie Stuart or renaissance head- dress of black velvet and jet. At the cemetery scene a long black veil over this. Mille. Delna, as Zerlina, had a pretty Span- ish peasant costume, a sky-blue short skirt, with flounces of mousselinede soie, and as a bodice a charming little bolero or jacket of violet velvet embroidered with roses.” “The Haven of Content,” at the Garrick Theater, London, has been very popular, and Miss Granville, as leading lady, has taken much trouble to have her cosiumes beautiful, artistic and appropriate. Suc- cess crowned her exertions, for the lead- ers of fashion areall commenting most favorably on her lovely toilsts. One con- sists of a bodice of rich white gninure over white satin; the lovely crinkled sleeves were of smoky gray crepe de chine. The bodice of guipure was cut zouave fashion, permitting a single fold of the white satin to show above the soft gray belt. Round the neckband was twisted a ribbon of a pinkish mauvre color, and at the back of the neck over it fell three little frills of lace. Accompanying this creation wasa hat of gray felt, the brim being bound with black velvet. Tke puffed crown was of violet velvet, great ciusters of Russian violets nestled at one side and a smaller bunch nestled under the brim so asto rest becomingly in the hair. A London correspondent gives such a good descrip- tion of another.interesting frock thatfor your benefit I quote: “Quite of the style of to-morrow was a gowa of fine wool poplin in black. The skirt was simple; it was the bodice that calied for observation. The latter, de- vised upon horizontal lines, consisted, al- ternately, of rows of narrow pipings and of black satin ribbon, which was attached on the upper side only of the material. The effect of these iines of ribbon falling away from the figure was to give slender- ness to the waist, which a belt of black satin, adjusted with sparkling buttons, encircled. Four steel buttons also ap- peared to fasten the bodice atone side, and a double frill of black lace over white made a pretty trimming to the overlap- ping edge, as well as to the wristlets. The sleeves were noteworthy for the new means of giving width to the shoulders. This result was attained by a serried row oi tucks which turned upward and almos: met at the points of a coliar, composed of cordings and black satin ribbon in the same style as the restof the bodice. A black straw hat which« sccompanied this smart gown had a crown of black velvet, and again the favorite trimming of vio- let. Miss Granville repeated the trans- verse style of trimming when she donned ablouse of black tucked chiffon, which she wore with a black skirt and a satin belt buttoned with diamonds. ‘‘We gained the assurance that in the evening the arms may fitly be veiled from a sight of the long, diaphanous chiffon sleeves which Miss Granville wore in combination with a low-necked black satin gown. A hanging bertha of cut jet formed the handsome trimming to this dress; a diamond comb was introduced above the hair-knot. “‘Miss Haidee Wright, as a simple Eng- lish heroine, wore a most becoming even- ing gown of moonlight blue satin with a bodice and full elbow sleeves of pleated white silk gauze. A scarf of frilled white chiffon accompaniea this pretty costume s an occasional shoulder-wrap.” Ideas From Paris. As I expected braiding of all kinds has been so overdone that in Paris the smartly dressed women have wisely re- turned to their far more becoming trim- mings cf velvet and fur, so again I say do not tolerate machine braiding and avoid braiding altogetherif you would keep well in advance of the fashion. However, we should remember that braiding held its own all last winter, so of course it could not have been expected to have been stylish a second winter. That would have sent Dame Fashion off into a tantrum. Last week I saw a white-haired old lady wearing theloveliest ruche of black chiffon, which looked as though quail feathers had veen used to edge 1t. How I wonder where it came from. 1 have not seen such another anywhere. But you want news about some beautiful blouses. Across the pond corduroy velveteen is en- J0 AR SN S AY » ; \ .‘,% HE LATEST effective wgre two blouses sent out by a gooa bouse very recently. One was of a tomato red and the other of a gorgeous green; both of these were worn with turn- down collars and cuffs. A green plaid glace waist and one of geranium-colored bengaline were both cut like shirt waists. From the same source, much aamired, was a black grenadine with a chine flower upon it. Banas of green miroir velyet extend from the shouider to below the waist, turn way back with jewel em- embtroidered revers; small frills of black chiffon outline the decolletage. An evening blouse I like is composed of alternate frills of chiffon and fine-pointed embroidery. Round the armholes is a double bow of apricot watered ribbon, and the ruched sleeves of chiffon reach the elbows. Equally attractive is one of an infinitesimally striped green and black veivet. This is cut in loose bolero form, edged with mink, and shows an under bodice of a lighter green chine silk, with adraped band of the velvet around the waist. A fichu edged with ruffies bordered with very narrow black velvet assists ir adorning. Yet another, which has an under bodice and sleeves formed of bouil- lonnes of white striped with black velvat ribbons; pale mauvre glace forms the epaulettes. and fichu. Quite lovely is a bodice of ivory tinted Irish lace mounted on chiffon, belted and buttoned withtur- quoises. MARCELLA. Fashions for Men. ‘When the Prince of Wales appeared in a double-breasted blue reefer (or three- seamer) recently at an afternoon function the tailors were filled with consternation, for it is “a compromise between the frock and the lounge. Some declare that ere long this garment will be worn with a top hat, as it has a more dressy effect than the regulation sack coat.’” In New York some of the best tailors are making square - cornered, double-breasted *‘jack- ets” of either a black or biue chevior, or an unfinished worsted. There are two vockets, and the jacket fits loosely and ing a considerable popularity, and very | Vanderbilt’s daughter during her lifetime, extends over the hips. It is worn but- toned. Broadcloth and vacuna are entirely out of date for evening dress suits, as is also a species of diagonal much used some three years ago. The cloth now employed is known as dresscloth, ora didgonal neither too fine nor too coarse. When a cloth waist- coatis worn it is single - breasted, with three buitons; if it has a U-shaped collar it must be of the same fabric as the rest of the suit; however, the most fashionable waistcoat is of white duck or linen,is double-breasted, has three buttonsand a narrow collar. A Tuxedo is never worn with a white waistcoat, neither is & white lawn tie. A black satin tie is correct if notin mourning, but under such circum- stances black corded silk is substituted. A reader asks a New York authority whether it would be correct for bim to wear either an opera or silk hat with a dinner coat, He is correctly informed that “the dinner coat is semi-formal evening dress and as such requires the headgear nsed on ordinary .or semi-formal occasions. A short coat and a tall hat are elements which do not agree. The gist of these remarks is that neither a tall nor an opera hat should be worn with dinner coat. The proper hat is a derby ora Homburg; black for winter and a straw in summer.”’ A youth of 18 may wear an evening coat or a Tuxedo, provided he observes strictly as to the waistcoats and ties provided for each garment. The round-shaped buttoned patent leather boot is stylish for walking; with lounge suits are worn round-toed black leather boots. Low quarters or patent leather pumps, are worn with evening dress. Buttons are very popular at present. Russet boots are now only worn on rainy days for golf- ing or tramping around the country. Spats are never worn with rnsset boots. o The Cost of a Duke. Fifteen millions is the price of a real first-class Duke. At least, that is what the New York World says W. K. Vanderbilt vaid for the honor of allying kis family name with that of the ancient house of Marlborough. This statement, says the World, is made on the unquestionable au- thority of an English gentleman visiting in Washington, who has been in a posi- tion to know all the facts. His account is circumstantial and undoubtedly correct. The terms of the settlement were $10,- 000,000—or, to speak with absolute accu- racy, the income of $10,000,000—on Mr. A STYLISH NATRON M %‘"\*&\ SLEEVE | T/ TH A DRAPERY OF FANCY GRANITE SILK CLOSE FITTING | aurrereLy oRaPE! e FROM GREATER NEW YORK A Budget of Interesting News and Gossip About the Galifornia Golony in the Eastern Metropolis. NEW YORK, N. Y., Dec. 14.—The people need a resi! A rest from the hustle and bustle and worry of these modern days. A rest from dissembling, a rest from sensationalism. Our true expression is being forever lost under the grinding mask we feel com- pelled to constantly wear. We have be- come so artificial ourselves that we look on everything, everybody, and even life itself, with eyes of distrust, with hearts steeled against the outward showing, be it grief or joy, misery or prosperity. ‘Welive on artificial foods, artificial heat, artificial air. Our mode of dressing, wear- ing jewelry, greeting strangers and gov- erning our children is becoming more artificial with each succeeding generation. So it is, so it will be until matters reach such an extreme that the limp and emaci- ated public will cry a halt, and then the great rest cure will begin. Santa Claus is aimost at our gates. Dear old rosy-cheeked, jolly-eyed, irosty-haired Santa Claus! He can only noodwink youngsters under six vears of age these days. The other afternoon a pretty, dark- baired young kit of only six autumns, said in a very earnest little way, and a hint of disappointment in her voice, *“You see, L know there is no rtal Santa Claus. I'wish there was one, 'cause it ’s such good fun to be ’sprised on Christmas morning.” Then with a confidential whisper, “I’'m not going to tell Eddie or Alired ’bout it, ’cause they think Santa Claus comes down the chimney; they’re younger ’an me, and don’t know that he doesn’t.”” Poor little tot, already she has learned the first lesson in deception. ‘Where are the Californians? The last week has been unusually duil in the Cali- fornia colony. There have been few ar- rivals, and those who have been in the city for weeks are busy shovping for the holidays or attending to business matters of importance. . Among the early arrivals of the week were Mrs. Cameron C. Thorne and Miss Thorne of Los Angeles. They engaged rooms at the Holland, and will hear the Christmas chimes in New York. A. Bowden of San Francisco arrived from a trip abroad last Sunday. He anti- cipates being at home for the holidays. J. W. Brozell, formerly of the San Francisco Stock Exchange, has been a guest at the Metropolitan during the past weck. He will start homeward on Tues- day. Mr. Brozeil is enthusiastic over the fature of the new mining fields in South- ern California and he has interested a number of Eastern magpates in a big mining scheme which wili be heard of ere long. California is returning to the good old boum days, evidently, for surely there are many great things being predicted & QF PLAIN WOOLEN SLEEVE INBROCADE witnal RY INBLACK VELVE® O% MHE SrOuLOE N © > T i N T Y and $5,000,000 on the Duke, If children are born they will inherit the mother’s portion at her death. If the marriage shall be without issue this $10,000,000 will revert on the death of the -Duchess. But the Duke’s $5,000,000 is to be his in any event. The settlement was not made in cash but in investments for the benefit of the Duke and Duchess. These invest- ments are principally in the stocks and bonds of the Lake Shore and other Van- derbilt raiiroads. ———— The Empress of Japan and her ladies have taken to the bicycle and use a maze of walks made on purpose for them in the secluded part of the imperial gardens. and scores of Easterners with money are planning Western trips and Western in- vestments. Mingling with the crowd at the Profes- sional Woman'’s League’ Bazaar last even- ing, I met John T. Malone, the lawver- actor and writerof San Jose. Mr. Malone has grown quite gray during the past few years, but it is becoming to his strong, handsome face. He isreally a thorough New Yorker now, though he speaks with the same clannish spirit of every true Cali- fornian. Mr. Malone has virtnally left the stage and has returned to the old love of his youth, the practice of the law. He was admitted to the New York bar lasy June. In connection with his practice he bas been busily engaged in writing and preparing matter for Charles Dudley W ner's new books, “The World’s Best Lit- erature.”” Miss Geraldine Malone, his lovely young daughter, is here with him. R. P. Carter of Santa Monica has re- turned from a long and delightful visit with relatives in England. Charles F. and Ross B. Hoffmann are guests at the Holland. There is a heap of injustice and miser- able rubbish in some people’s lives, and it keeps them and their few friends squaring accounts and clearing away the debris of misfortune which always threatens to crush out their existence. Poor little Lee Bascom has had a thorny little path to follow, and though she has stanch friends to encourage her at times, her gifted soul suffers untold agony through the injustice and ignorance with which she is fated to come into contact. After writing & number of very worthy little volumes and having had her play, “The Bowery Girl,” accepted and pro- duced, she finds that, in the very flush of success, her contract with the managers who have just put her play on is so timsy and unstable that her income from it is virtually cut off and reduced to nothing- ness. Miss Bascom is in very ill health, and this new blow to her ambitions has well nigh prostrated her. She could re- sort to the courts, but, like ail talented ones, she shrinks from the unsavory pub- licity of such a move. Her friends n the West will watch with ihtense interest the outcome of it all. W. C. Hunter has just returned from Spain and foreign lands in excellent bealth and spirit. He will not remain long in Gotham, but will hasten down to the Argentine Republic, where he will make a thorough investigation of mining properties there. He expects to be in Cal- ifornia before many months. The news of the sad and tragic ceath of Mrs. Sarah B. Cooper and her demented daughter was a great shock to the colony here. Expressions of grief and sincere regret have been many. J. C. Ainsley of San Jose is at the Broad- way Central for a few days. Mlle. Yvette Guilbert sailed into town this week with a half-dozen trunks filled with decollete gowns, long gloves and otber pretty things. Besides Yveite has a lot of naughty, naugnty, nanghty carols, #hich she will shrilly. pour into our listen- | ing ears. Yvette will not take us in, as | she did last year; we know a thing ‘or | three now, and—well, Yvette can’t teac: us French this time, we have heard a few | others since her last warblings here. “Inspiration depends on atmosphere, nothing more,”” said John Puilip Sousa the other evening when speaking of his | compositions.” He declares that inspira- | tion cannet always be born with the thought, especially when composing music. The click of a telegraph-machine will perhaps introduce a melody into the brain which can be atonce transmitted to paper. The idea js new in many re- spects. Mr. and Mrs Sousa went over to Europe last August to remain four or five months, but the sudden death of David Blakely, Mr. Bousa’s manager, recalled him to this country at once, and cut short a Eurovean wisit which had been full of delightful_experiences. He expects to reach California some time in February. Lucky Californial g Among the late arrivals this week were: W. R. Moore, San Frarcisco; H. G. Otis, Los Angeies; G. W. Percy. San Fran- cisco; A. H. Hoadley, San Francisco; F. H. Ames, 8an Francisco: A. Moss, San Franasco; Mrs. J. Gray, San Francisco; R. P. Carter, San Francigco; M. Grant Jr;, San Diego; F. Connell. San Francisco; F. M. Migs, S8an Francisco; H. McKee, Los Angeles; Mrs. William Layne, San Fran- cisco. TrELLA Forrz ToLAND. 34 Park row. NEW TO-DAY. 1ISSSCSSSSSSSH Sensible Xmas QGifts. A Set of Dishes—that's a sensible thing to invest in at Christmas time— gives pleasure to every member of the tamily. Splendid Sets at $10.50, $13.50 and $19.00. An Artistic Lamp and / Globe—fine designs $3.75, $4.75, $6.50. An Onyx Table, .a pretty piece of Rich Cut Glass or Dainty China, a Handsome Vase or Figure, or—well, come and look around. OPFPEN BEVENINGS. THAT BIG CHINA STORE— A Quarter of a Block Below Shreva's, WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO. 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY. USEFUL HOLIDAY . GIFTS FOR LADIES AND MISSES. Oneof Our Celebrated Corsetsand Waists Xxv The Reigning Fashionable LOUIS PARISIAN CORSEY and THE OLGA CORSET. Y] @ =23 ° 3 om3 -l o o2 £ ° 53 =% ] g -] Q% 3 S a5 S 4 32 ! P st PEE .:: e = — a = $E ® el ng | ] % 2ég 0,3 98 aes kg 253 o ¥ e gse = =a = 233 CAUTION—Having no agencies or branch stores, our Corsets can be purchased only at our estab- lishment. Mail Orders recelve prompt attention. Iilustrated Catalogue mailed free. R~ Parcels delivered free to Oakland, Alameda and Berkeley. Our Store Open Evenings until Jan. 1. MAKE NO MISTAKE IN OUR ADDRESS M. FREUD & SO, 742-744 Market st. and 10-12 Grant ave. NEW YO-DAY: HOLIDAY GIFTS ——FOR— EVERYBODY, BOTH YOUNG and OLD. Don’t Fail to Visit Our Toy Department. IMMENSE ASSORTMENT o TOYS, DOLLS, GAMES, WAGONS, AND VELOCIPEDES. NorE—Goodsdelivered freeto Alameda. Antioch, Berkeley, Blithedale, Eelvedere, hen cia, Fru i | vale, Go'den Gaie, Haywards, Lorin, Melrose, Mill Valley, Napa, Oakland, it .uma. Sausalito. San Rafael, ~a Anse mo, San Lorenzo, San Stockton, Tiburon, Temescal and Vallejo. 8i8-820 MARKET ST. GENUINE ROXBURY BRUSSELS - CARPET, 75C A YARD, SEWED AND LAID. ! SHIRER & SHIRER, 747 Market Street, Leandro, | |8 Tel. 5391. Opp. Grant Ave. AD. KOCOUR, FASHIONABLE FURRIER. Formerly cutter with Revillon Fres Parls, London and New York. £y 5% Kearny Street, Upstair: The moet efficacious of Skin Foods and Tissue Builders is rec- ommended by physicians for its purity and efeacy. It removes freckiesand tan, prevents wrinkles and renders the skin seft, smooth, M clear, and white. Itocureschapped haud$, chapped lips, and many tkin diseases. Price 50 cents. Sold by all Druggists. And at PACIFIC COAST AGENCY, Room 29, Donohoe Building, 1170 Market St., 8. F. SISTEM, The only one by which you can make a garment without trying on. FREE TESTS. 1231 MARKET ST. \ / KILL TWO BIRDS WITH ONE STONE! IG selecting your CHRISTMAS PRESENT buy somathing your WIFE, HTER have to buy. Kindly pay us a visit thing that will be JUST THE THING. We still have a few left of those LADIES’ RAINCOATS with Cape at........... LADIES’ CORDUROY WAISTS, dressmaker made and lined throughout, regularly $6, now at.. LADIES' KERSEY JACKETS, silk lined, ve ow at. never sold less than $15, or SISTER REALLY NEEDS and which you will eventually and we will assist you in findIng some~ $2.35 $4.75 $10.25 S /¢ MARKET ST LAWRENCE