The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 8, 1896, Page 22

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 8, 1896. Rare Gowns Worn by Queens of Fashion. Only general remarks have thus far been made concerning the Czarina’s beautiful Tobes which excited admiration in critical, art-loving Paris. At the dinner given at | the Elysee, which was followed by a \'isn.i to the opers, the jTess wore a glace | silk, pale blue in hue. The rarest and | most exquisite lace adorned it; the train | was very long. The following evening | her costume was equally worthy of imita- tion, being of a delicate rose satin elabor- | ately embroidered with pearls; creamy | lace formed a ruche around the low cut neck. On all occasions her jewels, espe- | cially her diamonds, were simply magnifi- cent. When visiting the Louvre her toilette of pearl gray broadcloth was comvleted with a white capote trimmed with violets. The extreme simplicity of this dress was] admirable. 1 At an afternoon fete she appeared in a silk of a delightful pinkish lilac shade and a toque composed of light violets and a white aigrette. At another dinner this attractive woman elected to be garbed in a gorgeous white brocade with a very lengthy train. At the review at Chalons she looked radiant in an elegant costume of peacock blue silk, with collet cape of the same, bordered with sable and a capote to match the dress. Mme.Faure wore | during the imperial party's stay several | ' gowns most favorably commented on; | for instance, one was an ivory velvet | frappe, with black and colored bouquets; the skirt was plain and the bodice had | revers and white lace; capote of mauve glace velvet, with pink aigrette and chou. At a dinner party most becoming was herrobe of silvery gray satin. At an after- noon reception Mlle. Faure wore gray velvet made with a pretty bolero, literally | covered with gold embroidery, the cein- | ture was of gray silk chiffon, and her hat | of blue velvet, with an agrette and a| cache peigne of blue and violet marguer- | ites. Her sister, Mme. Berge, was in beige velvet frappe, with flowers in a darker shade; close-titting bodice, with revers of ivory satin embroidered with gold in the | empire style; black satin corselet with | large sirass buttons and sash of laurel- green. The sleeves long and plain, but draped en pavillon on the shoulder. In| the evening Mme. Berge appeared in n! pretty dress of pale blue faille, with | corselet of darker blue velvet embroidered with gold and silver in raised work, and round the shouldersa fall of pointd’An- gleterre. The dresses worn by Mme. Faure and her danghters on the various occa- sions were manufactured expressly at Lyons, and made up by Laferriere. Worn by Theater Queens. Truly superb were two of the creations | worn by actresses at the Theater Francais on the occasion of the Czar and Czarina’s | visit. Mme. Bartet was attired in a mag- nificent white satin covered with an ap- | plique of lace embroidered with silver and pearls. At her waist was a clasp repre- senting » Russian eagle in diamonds. The small lace sleeves had rows of sable running around them. Mme. Baretta in white Mechlin lace over pink moire, with a narrow row of sable around the hem and pelisse of white moire covered with seed pearlsand silver embroidery, was both artistic and beauti- ful, and the divine Sarab, who recited at Versailles, was wonderfully appareled in a grand conception of thick white damas embroidered with feathers, outlined with diamonds and opals, low bodice draped | with Jace, and the Russian eagle in the front with theimperial crownin diamonds and pearls. A recent Paris bride wore a gown of ivory satin. The skirt was plain and trimmed; the bodice, a la Valois, was adorned with bullion tulle, and a row, of orange blossoms surrounded the neck- band. At this wedding several toilettes of rare elegance excited much admiration and great were the varieties in styles. For ex- ample, the groom’s mother was gowned in a long-irained skirt of the richest black satin, lined with violet taffeta glace, the rufile betng accordion pleated, edged with black lace. The close-fitting bodice had a corseiet belt and revers embroidered with amethysts, guimpe of crepe embroidered in gold and violet; the same crepe formed the cape, which had a knot of briiliants and a mauve aigrette. The bride’s mother was a picture in a Louis XVI robe. “The skirt was of sky-blne brocade broche with shadea carnations, close-fitting bodice with lace jabot and bolero of moss-gieen velvet, enbanced with old point lace. Mme. de EVENING GOWN WORN AT THE COMEDY THEATRE,LONDON. Carnowsky wore blue brocbe satin, tke | old lace, following the form of the zigzag, | almost certain that Princess robes and | visit owing to being conscions that they | should be one on each side of the coat, but appliques of | sewn up with the fur. They are fastened | polonaises will be much in vozue for tho<e | are not properly turnea out. bodice ornamented with Bruges lace, embroidered with silver: | with a head and two tails and are in Paris } who prefer bodice and skirt alike, but the capote of the same lace with sapphire- | among the high novelties for winter. blue velvet crown and white aigrette. An- other. pretty dress was Pompadour silk, vert d’ean ground with pattern of roses all over, bolero of green velvet with pink- tinted Jace. The small capote was of the same lace, with a white aigrette and large black velvet bow. It is no longer fashionable, I am happy to say, for our mothers to appear in sub- stantial black or gray silk, with the tradi- tional collar or frill of lace at the throat. Instead they are quite as exqui- sitely and tastefully garbed as their pretty daughters and wear what- ever colors or shades that suit them best and the richest and rarest of em- broideries, laces, etc. Women should re- member that *they are no older than they look,” and should take every precaution 1o look nota year older than absolutely necessary. MARCELLA. Light Colors in Winter Modes The world ct fashion will feel through- out 1ts length and breadth this influence, as in Paris it has created a great demand for light-hued winter fabrics, as, for in- stance, light beige cloth, incrusted with guipure and bordered with tiny jet spangles and beads, will be worn for dressy occasions, such as matinees and marriages. White cloth is also now em- ployed by several of the great dressmakers for the elegant costumes being evolved. One of these ut least should be.described, s0 I select the daintiest. The skirt is embroidered at the hem in an ivy-leaf design in white and gold. The blouse is in white mirror velvet, ovening over a chemisette of Irish point upon white satin. Over this is a short bolero, with rounded embroidery, which forms a very novel and effective trimming. This bolero is open at the back as high as the coilar, whicl; Jike the waist ribbon, the revers and cuffs, is in maize-colored vel- vet. For small dinner parties cloth prom- ises to be very popular trimmed with zibeline. Not many years ago this fashion enjoyed a great vogue. Very fetching is another creation from a big house. *Jt is a beantiful Louis XIV brocaded silk, irimmed with graceful and becomjing revers in velvet, slightly full at the shoulders, showingz the white-satin lining, and finished off with a narrow bor- der of feathers. The same trimming or- naments the skirt and the collar. The upper part of the bodice is composed of cream guipure, which can be removed a volonte, according to the occasion for which the dress is required.” Wide collarettes of zibeline made upon & zigzag of wire are worn with a fall of IN"MR.MARTIN® T and much ornamented. The bodices of the polonaises, though fittiny at the waist, will be bouffant toward the top, and covered with ornaments above the bust, the sleeves long and close, falling over the hand, with epaulette or bouffant, or some- thing puffy, at the thoulder. Figaros more than ever, separate from and as auxiliary to the bodice, and richly trimmed or embroidered. Buttons will be much worn, placed everywhere, without the least idea of being used or useful, only as ornam®nts. These buttons are topazes, amethysts and turquoises, either real or well imitated in colored glass, and set in gold or silver; openwork steel is also'much used, but the prettiest are Egyptian mn style and resemble jeweled beetles. Donovan and Maucheret. And what do you suppose Donovan’s very latest gown is composed of? Simply of baby lamb. The skirt is full and the coat is short and pleated and has a very handsorne vest of ermine. The cuffs and revers are of orange ve!vet, and although weare not so informed, the costume is doubtless lined throughout with an orange- hued silk. A rich heavy lace overlays the inner collar; jetbands. A good-sized bow of black satin tied alacravatis chic at the waist line. At the left side is quite & large bow of black satin, with ends that reach to within abouu ten inches of the | bottom of the skirt. The gloves worn with this are stitched with black, and the black velvet hatand its great sweeping bunch of cock’s feathers is assuredly effec- tive. Butalthough Donovan is simply raved over by many New Yorkers, I can- didly admit that there are two dressmakers here at least who certainly create quite as chic models. Indeed, many- S8an Francisco women have been sadly disappointed with their New York gowns, and one of our social autocrats who is one of the best gowned of women oun leaving lately for her Eastern home had quite a number of lovely toilets made up here, and since then she has written to friends saying that her frocks compared most favorably with any she has seen. | Women make a great mistake who leave home for a visit of 2 month or so with the intention of having all necessary garments made while in New York or elsewhere, as 1I they patronize fashionable dressmakers they will not receive their clothes until it is about time to return home, and asa natural result cannot fully enjoy their sapphire-blue velvet trimmed with ap- plique lace, coffee colored. Much black jet is employed, not only on the bodice but on the skirt as well; four lines extend directly down the front, and from them radiate twelve short lines which terminate with handsome circular ornaments. The sleeves are extramely ugly, and excepting for a very tall and slender woman the high serrated collar and the double revers would be most unfortunate in their results. Rather effective is a reception dress of a pearl-gray ladies’ cloth, with a collar of ruby velvet embroidered in Turkish pat- tern in gold and siiver. Three narrow folds of the velvet trim the skirt and the same number the sleeves, which extend far over the hands. The neckband and corselet are of soft folds of tha velvet. From Maucheret’s also comes a theater wrapin a cloth turquoise blue in color, adorned with broad bands of silk-em- broidered roses and buds. Down the front extends a panel of white lace, across which are bands of the cloth, held in place by twoy ornamental buttons. Round the throatis a full ruche of chiffen. Irather like two other New York gowns. One is a debutante’s frock of shell-pink crepede chine, trimmed with pink chiffon plisse. A sash of pink taffeta encircles the waist and is carried up the back until it 1eaches between the shoulders, and there it ties in a large bow, the ends of which reach the skirt's bottom around the low- cut bodice, and around the hips are many rows of shirring, and the sleeves are in the model too bouffant to be considered abso- lutely new. From the same dressmaker is a young girl’s dress of dark-green cloth, trimmed with apnlique of the same shade of velvet embroidered and outlined in jet. The yoke and lining to the epaulettes are of white satin, the former being embroid- ered in jet, steel and gopper. The very high stock and nigh-draped belt are of black velvet bound with green. Three Redfern Gowns. ‘While at Balmoral the Empress of Russia ordered from Redfern three very excellent gowns. One is composed of a “zouaveand sxirt in petunia faced cloth; the zouave, handsomely embroidered in self-colored cord, is worn over a blouse in the same color of surah silk; the yoke is prettily mocked, from which the fullness falls straight to the waist, being confined by a deep-draped sash, The sleeves are closely rucked from shoulder to wrist.”’ The second has a *“‘coat and skirt in a deep shade of petunia faced cloth. The coat, smartly cut in the double-breasted shape, has a collar of velvet, the revers being edged with a narrow braided design in a fancy silk cord of the same color. The same cord is employed on the orna- mentation of the hem of the plain skirt, cut in the latest shape. With this costume is worn a soft silk waistcoat, draped with a jabot effect. The revers are tastefully cut and the effect of the velvet collar is excellent.” Most simple is the third and last, for the *‘coat and skirt are in biack and white tweed, quite simply made, the coat open- | ing witk close-! terial. long revers showing the plain ing waistcoat of the same ma- MARCELLA. pt s Fashions For Men. Positively the political excitement dur- | ing the past few days has been so great | that 1 almost overlooked the fact that | THE CALL's subscribers expected to be | & | Kept posted concerning the latest styles in ties, coats, trousers, etc. However, as many have been awaiting the result of the election to give their winter orders, I will at once give you the result of my observa- tions. We are informed monthly now that green and red tweeds are fashionable nevertheless, none of the smartly attired men pay any visible attention to this an- | nouncement. Evening coats with velvet collars continue to be regarded as ex- tremely bad form. A New York eorre- spondent writes us that “‘a few of the hunt- | ing youngsters will appear at all hours at fashionable restaurants in the very start- ling plaid velvet waistcoats, which I must confess are also beyond me. Well, they will all vanish once the horse show is over.” There is a decided tendency this winter to use rough cloths for overcoats, and beaver is preferable to melton. A well- built overcoat should be moderately loose, kave a fly front and be single-breasted. It should reach to about two inches below the knee, and have two outside pockets and a small one alse for tickets; they should have no flaps, and 1be pockets any change in the cut and length of the coat. It is faced with silk, which extends to the lapels. It is plain, and not braided. | The skiris will be cut away a little more, | and the corner rounded. Ths tails will come to just about the inside bend ‘of the | knee. White waistcoats will be worn | aimost universally with evening dress. The smartest ones are double-breasted and two buttons deep, with a very pronounced *‘u” shape, around which there is a thin collar. The trousers are cut fairly loose to the leg. If you prefer to wear the waiste coat of the same material as the suit, it should be single-breasted, but cut in the same fashion. Remember that a white waistcoat is a difficult thing to fit, and 1if you can afford, have these made to order. They should, according to some authori- ties, never be laundered; if they are, they | should not be starched, only ironed.” C. C. .o It is said that of all instruments the violin requires the most delicate ear to play. ** Polly, put the kettle Tea_—_ oms and we'l all have ‘ Kettles! Two of our best designs in Five 0'Clocik Tea Kettles go on our Special Sale this week. One style, Wrought Iron Stand, Solid Brass Kettle an Lamp, atd 2.25; the other, Fine Fancy Design Brass Stand, with N\ Brass Kettle and Lamp, at $2.10, Haven't many of them—may not last | | s=2.25. | long. | A splendid assortment of New and Artistic Designs in Tea Kettles at $1.85 to 88.25; Chafing Dishes at $2.60 to $8.50. THAT BIG CHINA STORE— A Quarter of a Block Below Shreve't. WANQGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO. 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY. |Freud's Corset House. | SPECIAL SALE OF CORSETS MADE TO ORDER AND RE- FIT GUARANTEED. D—A LAKG 7OICE OF tyles of Bustles and Hip Forms. 1 The Latest | Genuine Jenne: PA T WAISTS, ITE WAIST. = E |° = =ia 2 g $28 gg% 5. 253 <2 fadid 2 L (SEH. O $£8% <28 ¥ Eeza —\4 =0 s lad2 5S¢ e ,a 14 n =2 =3 3 TR w MY P 2 . ©Of =5 B 2 EEZ |z > ES CAUTION—Having no agencies or branch stores, our Corsets can be purchased only at our estab- lishment. Mail Orders receive prompt st:ention. Lilustrated Catalogue mailed iree. 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