The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 23, 1896, Page 28

(-] e} THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, AUGUST 2 1896. - THE LATEST AND SMARTEST DESIGNS IN DRESSES FOR THE AUTUMN SEASON During the next five weeks we will read a great deal about novelties and the | changes in fashions and can gradually | make pp our minds concerning what fab- rics and styles will best become us for the autumn and winter seasons. Even the least frivolous of women ;are wise to give such subjects their grave consideration, unless they are so situated financially that they can give the best dressmakers, tailors and milliners carte blanche. But in most cases much thought must be bestowed upon our wardrobes before the desired Tesults are obtained., One of the first gowns we should consider is a tailor-made one. Now, take my advice and spend no Iucre experimenting with | tailoresses who are said to do just as satis- factory work as men, for I have made the experiment and have come to the conclu- | sion that unless one can affcrd a tailor | dress from one of the best makers it is far wiser to have a good dressmaker design a simple little cloth frock and make it do duty for a tailor gown, for a botched tailor suit is such a conspicious and, as a nat- ural result, an utterly useless affair. When possible have the entire garment made over silk, but if that is rather mere than you can afford have the skirt made over the very best mohair obtainable, and if you have a jacket see that the lining is of avery superior grade of silk, and if the material is somber in character you can frequently by selecting a novelty silk give the garment an indescribable cachet. After the cloth frock or the tailor-made gown is completed to your entire satis- faction it is well to see that your hat, gloves and shoes leave nothingto be de- sired. I know of more than one stylish girl in this City who has made a smart tailor dress do duty all through the win- ter for calling and for the swellest of teas, merely substituting for the severe little waistcoat or vest a dressy vest, or a dainty waist which can be worn with such ad- vantage under a jaunty coat. On such occasions lighter gloves are also donned. For those who already have purchased their cloth let me say there are three tailors in the City who stand well, whom I know of, who will accept and make up your own materials, and only one, I be- lieve, who deciines to do so—at least, he will take all you send him, but will make no aliowance whatever for your goods. For instance, if your gown is to be ordered entirely from him and is to cost $96 or $150, he will charge you exactly tae same if you send to him every inch of silk and cloth you wish used; but by purchasing your fabrics, even 1f you pay $40 for the making of a skirt, vest (or waistcoat) and jacket you can save considerable. There is a well-founded rumor that all tailor suits arze to be very elaborately braided. The finest of such work is now fignuring in sev- eral exquisite suits from Paris, and every stitch of the braiding was done by hand. Crepe de chine is held in great favor, and a dress of a shade of softest pink was worn a few evenings ago by one of our fair matrons. Round the hem and up each seam of the skirt was exquisite Brussels lace applique. bodice was much beautified by the addi- tion of many opals, and threads ot gold appeared to be interwoven. The skirt fell over a slip of pink glace silk of one shade darker pink. Another lovely conception | worn the same evening was a glace silk of lime-green and white. The yoke of green was introauced in the front only, and bands depended from it to the waist cov- ered with seed pearls and bordered with lace, The sleeves were small and puffy,’ the green completely covered with pearl stud- | ded lace. The skirt of white glace had | three small and very full pinked out The Newest Hat, Trimmed. flounces of the green. Throughout the lining was of the white glace. A striking looking creation of pale mauve had braces of an odd shade of green embroidered with amethysts which were outlined with gold. A lovely stately maiden, soou to become a bride, has a reatly artistic and beautiful trousseau. Several of her gowns are from celebrated houses. One is of a magnificent quality of moire silk, pale gray in shade; the bodice has the silk completely covered with gray mousseline de soie, closely embroidered with silver The lace on the low-cut | | silks. threads which hold in place innumerable turquoises. The sleeves are numerous frills of the mousseline delicately edged with silver and small stones. ' The skirt i3 absolutely plain, lined with silk, exactly matching the turquoises. Inside it is finishea with a full frill of blue, over which falls one of pale eray mousseline. The effect is truly all that the most exacting could desire. And thinking of silks reminds me that you should all make a mental note of the fact that moire is the coming fashion in All kinds of new waterings are to be worn and the real old-fashioned wmoire, but this fabric will assume a new aspect when trimmings are taken into considera- tion, for it will not be regarded as fash- ionable unless combined with the finest embroidery, not only worked in silk and tinsel thread, but also in stones and paillettes of all kinds, and there are many new varieties with oval-shaped stones, mother-of-pearl and opalescent catseye of various descriptions, and so great is the demand for turquoise blue even the imitation turquoises have greatly ad- vanced in value. 1 have just seen a truly beautiful white moire, out of which is to be fashioned _the wedding dress for one of our October brides. The watering is exceptionally handsome, and the silk isof the quality of and much like a very fine Irisn poplin, such as used to sell for $4 per yard, but this moire which was purchased here cost but $3, and when the quality is consid- ered is very reasonable at that figure. Many will wear skirts of rich white moire with light waists this winter. In another troussean are two skirts of the finest white mobair over glace. One has a pattern of fleur de lis woven in it; the otheris plain. Now most of us came to the conclusion some time ago that mo- hair had gone out of fashion; such, how- ever, is not the case, as in the last roval trousseau it figured, and to wear with light bodices in the evening or at home at any time it is quite charming, but by no means inexpensive, as to look well it must be absolutely spotless and that necessitates constant visits to the cleaner. However, if you can afford one or two such skirts do not hesitate to supply yourself, as black silk skirts cannot take their place when light bodices are donned. Really I should give more attention to | lisse with a sort Marcella Venturés Some Sugges; tions fAbout Tailor-Made Gowns. Young Women Will Have Nothing to Do With Basques---Wasp-Like Waists Are Out black and mourning dresses, and I have just read a aescription of several black frocks, which show how successfully black may be treated without looking heavy for youthful figures in a recent trousseau. “A handsome black brocade dinner-gown with a long skirt has the bodice finished with a deep circular berthe, the edge of which was thickly embroidered in small jetsequins, the long waved lines sst very close together, and the sleevesa succession of pretty puffs. Another black broche has a high white satin bodice with folds of white silk muslin drawn over it; and over this is thrown a film of black of wavy, 1rregular trellis of small black sequins on it, relieved with a little bright steel. A deep-pointed belt is worked with jet and steel to corre- spond, and the sleeves, which are some- what full on the shoulders, have very pretty long white satin vandykes running up the arm, the widest part of the wrists, and they are outlined with steel as well as crossed by a long design of jet and steel. A black broche afternoon dress has a black silk muslin bodice embroidered with ta- pering lines oi jet very gracefully defining the waist. There is a yoke of dull closely ruched chiffon that contrasts well with the brightness of the jet border. Still another black brocade skirt, which may of course be worn with any blouse.” . Thin black materials of all kinds are 1aid over color or white, black over white being still very fashionable, especially when chiffon gauze or mousseline de soie is employed, and the latest muslin dresses are beine generally made with a lining of colored muslin over silk, such as white over pink,and white over gray is greatly liked. Lace is used more extensively than ever at present, and the demand for it is likely to increase this winter. The newest tint is ocher, not a dark tone, as the tint is very faint, but decidedly on the ocher shade. Point d’Alencon is worked with steel and gold paillettes and generally laid over chiffon, which, In turn, covers satin.. Point de Flandres is deemed the correct lace for the Louis X VI bodices and frills and jabots which are worn with them. Limerick lace is also much liked and 1n the Princess Charles of Denmark’s trousseau are many flounces of the finest specimens of this lace. The low-cut, full pinafore bodices are now as often made of lace as they were formerly mace of chiffon. Young women will have nothing to do with basques, but their mothers are now regarding them approvingly. Of courss the godet basque is out of fashion, and this is good news, as it aiways crushed easily, and the long, straight basques of the Louis X1V coat are so becoming that they will be considerably worn all autumn and probably during the following season as well. For trimming them silk em- broidery will be much used with quan- tities of black Brusseis lace. A litule frill around the latest basque is noted with ap- proval by those having matronly figures. Relative to skirt trimming, it 1s to be noted that “‘the most beautiful ruches and bouillonnes of two colors, either laid one over the other or ruched together, are what are most used, and black gauze over white satin for a foot ruche stands a good deal of wear and tear. This treatment makes the foot look small, and it is for this reason that the silk balayeuse is not likely to go out of fashion. Skirt panels have been brought in in contrast with the gown. For the moment the prettiest are lappetings of lace—that is, wide bands of lace, with scallops at eitherside, laid over the dominant color. Sometimes this is white, and sometimes it is black, but vel- vet is also employed for the purpose when possible: still, it only accords with the heavier makes of silk.” MARCELLA. As to Footwear Shoes are topics of interest to all of. us and I hear there is a decided tendency to wear much higher walking shoes, and for cycling is the new gaiter boot, a combina- tion of the shoe and the gaiter. These are being made in either patent leather, glace, or of kid which requires blacking. Kor evening wear our siippers must not have large bows or any elabor- ate ornamentation, but when embroid- ery is introduced it must be of the finest of its kind. Real diamond buckles, not larger than a nickel, are fre- quently seen and are verv smart. The greatest novelties in shoe embroidery are the concave pafliettes, which are most effective in white satin mingled with sil- ver, and in place of buckles the smallest of bows continue to be worn, the half-inch ends being fringed. An English correspondent writes: Prin- cess Maud has a small, pretty foot. She likes moderately pointed toes and high heels, not the absurd structures that are good substantial ones in the place where the heel ought to be. There are gold and silver shoes galore, white satin shoes with bows, and some with diamond buckles and shamrocks. One pair is embroidered with silver and ‘‘blue” diamonds, and has white satin bows finished with the silver-lined clear beads that can never rust or tarnish. Bronze and pink and pale blue slippers, the prettiest shade of light suede, and many others have been made to harmonize with dresses, and do so most thoroughly. Then there are the nut prown, tan and black walking shoes, the dressing-room red and blue moroceos, the riding boots, the warm-lined traveling boots, and the substantial walking boots, with fifteen buttons, that have cork be- tween the stout soles and yet are literally almost as light as a feather. The trees that are prepared for every kind of shoe and boot are of light-colored polished wood, and made hollow to ensure the least possible amount of weight.” MARCELLA. Fashions for Men Some excellent winter goods have al- ready reached here. The tweeds are es- pecially good, very stvlish effects being produced by odd mixtures. Gray is de- clared to be the color which will enjoy the greatest vogue all winter. The g_oll stock- ings on sale at many of our leading siores are exactly similar to those which are in such demand in New York this season. Socks for general wear may be of black silk or lisle thread; on which small colored figures are woven, or gray and bruw'n, solid color or silk checked with white tigures. Black silk socks nnly are correct for evening wear. Balbriggan is the staple color for hose. The all-round turndown collar is popu- lar for ordinary wear. The newest stvles have the corners rounded. About two and three-eighths inches in front and two and a quarter inches in the back are the proper measurements. These are exclu- sively worn with colored shirts. For even- ing wear a tall, straight collar nearly two and a quarter inches above the front but- tonhole is fashionable. Straight standing with wings opening considerably at the throat are seen comparatively seldom, but there is a steady demand for either the all-round straight standing or the all- round turndown. Cuffs continue to be square and short. Not long ago Vogue was requested to fully aefine the duties of a valer, and in reply stated: A good valet should first of all keep his master’s clothes, bcots and hats in ad- mirable condition. His aim should be to turn out his master a perfectly groomed man. His duties begin an hour or more in the morning before his master is ready to arise. The boots and shoes must be placed on their trees and cleaned and polished, clothes worn the evening and day before must be brushed again and folded, linen look- d after and every article placed in spic and span order. The valet 18 told the hour for awakening his master. Al that time he enters the room as noiselessly as possible, arranges the toilet articles, bathrobe, and, finding his master awake, he opens the blinds and lets in the daylight. He then prepares the bath and fetches the hot water for shaving. When the bath is finished he brings in the morn- ing mail, the newspapers and_the tea and toast, or brandy and soda, or both, or whatever refreshment may be required. He then consults with his master as to what clothes are to be worn and arranges them, the outer garments on one chair, the under garments on another, the shirt with jts buttons in, the tie, the boot of the day. When it is time to dress he assists his master—turns him out in first-class con- dition. He attends to the laundry, the mending and pressing of clothes, repair- ing, etc., the cleaning of bureau silver, The Newest Hat, Untrimmed. the honing of razors and all other acces sories of toilet. He is reponsible for everything pertain- ing to his master's wardrobe, and he should consult bim if anything is needed. Hats and sticks and spats 'and other items must be looked after, as well as the more bulky articles. He can shave his master, if required. During the day he is used for messages, for running errands, settling with tradespeople and such like duties. placed under the waist of the shoe, but i He should be a steward, and, to some ex- Butcher Tl\emWorl( of a in Feathers One day last winter I was pruning in my orchard when on grasping a twig I started back in surprise at beholding a snake lying quietly over it. I was about to deal it a death blow when I perceived that it had already left the tribulations of this wicked world. A-other slayer had preceded . me. The tree was a French prune, which, as every orchardist knows, is apt jto have sharp, thorny spikes here and there, it it is on myrabolan roots. It is a char- acteristic derived from the parent stock. A closer scrutiny showed the snake neatly impaled on one of these sharp spikes, as if by the hand of man. 1 removed the serpent, which was of the small striped grass species, and pressed | on to the next tree. Here another dis- covery awaited me in the shape of a large bumble bee spiked upon a twig like the snake. Nor was this all. Near by ona neighboring twig was a big scorpion and higher up on.the tree a fat black beetle, speared through his stomach. And there were more discoveries yet. A deliberate survey of the tree disclosed numbers of insects—bees, beetles, wasps, yellow jack- ets, scorpions of various sizes—all impaled in a highly scientific manner. The tree was full of them. It was a sight. I regretted that I was alone and the sole spectator of thisen- tomological slaughter-bouse. The spec- tacle would have keen intensely interest~ ing to a city dweller. Indeed it is not often witnessed by country folk. The tree was the banqueting-hall and charnel-house of the butcher-bird. This ferocious fowl is to the hawk tribe what the bantam cock is to the poultry family. He 1s diminutive but a fighter, aye, a gladiator. He belongs to the sparrow- hawk variety and 1s no bigger than a robin, but he can whip anything double his size that has wings. Like the bantam heisin- sensible to fear and will attack anybody or anything up to men ana snakes. Unlike most birds of prey, however, this small butcher-bird kills for the very lust of murder. No matter if his voractous | stomach is glutted with animal food and his sharp beak smeared with the blood of some innocent linnet or lark this monster in feathers will go on killing just the same. He begins to murder at daybreak and never stops until it gets too dark to see. Then he chooses a perch high upon some lofty tree and sleeps until morning when be begins killing again. He slaughters ten times as many of his fellow-creatures as he can possibly eat, and the more blood he tastes the more he wants. The arch- murderer, Holmes, if he had been a bird would have been a butcher-bird. He is an active fellow this butcher-bird. He darts about in the air with the swiit- ness and irregularity of a swallow. 5 ) ¢ do not know any bird that can escape him. His vision, like that of a'l hawks, is as phenomenal as his swiftness of wing, and, small as he is, he can see a distant bird farther thana man can. When he sees it, if he thinks there is half a chance to kill it, he drives directly for it, just as a man-of-war sends out a torpedo. * When he strikes he kills—also. like the torpedo. Now, there was no earthly necessity for this butcher-bird to impale all those un- fortunate insects on my pruné tree. Not one of them had been touched, as far as I could see. This bloodthirsty pirate had pounced upon them and spiked them on the twigs, apparently for no other purpose t! to add to his eollettion and see how many he could kill in a given time. This also was a characteristic of Holmes, who i confessed that, having committed one murder, he acquired a taste for the pas- time and thirsted to commit others out of sheer lust for taking buman life, whether he made anything out of them or not. In fact, he confessed that out of his twenty- eight murders only a fraction of them were for gain. The rest were committed for the fun of the thing. Harry Hayward, who killed Miss Ging, the mitliner, made a similar statement. He also would ave made a good butcher-bird. But the butcher-bird, in spite of his gross and brufal instincts, has the palate of an epicure and knows a gond thing to eat when he sees it. I was once on a stock ranch in Monterey County where I saw him one day at a prank that filled me with intense indignation, and if I had hud a gun the monster would have joined his victim in the shades of the next world in short order. My attention was aftracted to the strange actions of a robin redbreast, a female, which was flying to and fro across" a ten-acre pasture. She flew from 2 par- ticular post directly across the pasture to another particular post an‘l after pausing 2 moment flew back to the same post she bad before quitted. This was a curious proceeding, but I soon learned the cause. The robin was being pursued by a butcher- bird, which was playing with his quarry as a cat amuses herself. with a mouse. The butcher-bird gave the ynfortunate robin mo rest. No sooner had she alighted on \ the post to catch her breath than the fal- con 'approached threateningly and drove her off the postacross the field. Why the miserable bird confined her flight to these opposite posts I could not conceive, nor do I know to this day. For some little time this curious chase was kept up. The tired robin would alight on the post, only to be driven off by the butcher-bird with shrill screams ana menacing motions of wings, beak and claws. The hawk would follow her, a few feet above her head, describing active cir- cles, and occasienally swooping down upon her as if to strike but although I watched him closely I could not see that he did. Dropping feebly upon the opposite post the rtobin would spread her wings and open her mouth to catch a gasp of air, when her merciless tormentor would drive her off again to circle above and swoop down upon her. v I watched the incident, too surprised to interfere. The doomed robin grew steadily wéaker. Her flight became erratic and feeble.. She beean to flounder in the mid- air like a tumbler vigeon, and once she fell heavily to the ground. I thought her dead, but the ferocious butcher-bird alighted beside her, and driving her to her feet forced her to take wing again. This was her last trip. Several times in making the journey across the pasture she fell, but recovered herself aud flew slowly on. Shewas about exhausted, but with a last despairing effort reached the post. As soon as her trembling feet touched it s he fell over on her side and lay there mo- tionless. The butcher-bird apparently understood the state of the game. He approached usual, but without any threatening dem- onstration, and taking his perch beside the robin, looked intently at her a moment. Then, satisfied that the incident was closed, he flew carelessly away and taking up a position on a post further along the fence. looked coolly about for another victim. I went to the robin and found her dead. Picking her up the whole tragedy was ex- plained. A round hole in the crown of her head told the story. The butcher-bird had scooped out her brains and eaten them alive. The bloodthirsty monster, not con- tent with killing and eating his prey, had driven her from post to post that he might have the pleasure of sucking out her dainty brain, peck by peck, until the last morsel was extracted, when she fell dead. Evidently, in the estimation of the butcker-bird, the brain of a robin is much more toothsome when sucked out leisurely alive than when dead. For a specimen of monstrosity this beat anything I ever saw in animal life. The savages have al- ways found pleasure in torturing their captives, but for fiendishness the butcher- bird must be gi b bl given the palm over the In. This monster in feathers is by no mean rare in California, and if in yo’nr nmhle: you find a bug impaled on a twig you tent, a secretary. 1f he writes ‘a letter to you he should sigu it “Respectfuily yours,” He should know his master’s movements, and be on hand with changes of clothes, if this is required during the day. In the evening he should place upon the bed tne evening suits (Tuxedo and full evening dress), with shirt, buttons in, and two ties—one black and one white—and assist his master to dress. He shoula be on hand at night to assist also at the undressing, and he must not go to bea until all articles have been well shaken, folded and dusted, and the boots and shoes placed back on their trees, He should be your confidential servant, and attend to all your wants and requirements, as far ag the service of dress, the toilet and general small matters. No livery is re- quired for a valet, unless he serves you at table ana acts as butler and valet as well. He should not be allowed to wear any jewelry, not even a watch chain nor a ring. His dress for ordinary occasions should be a dark sack suit and a white, flat scarf or plastron, derby hat. His face, of course, should be hairless. In traveling he should take care of your smaller luggage, check your trunks and boxes, get your tickets and perform the role of courier. He should ride in the or- dinary car, and never in the “drawing- room’’ with you. 0. C. The Newest in Ladies’ Hats The new hat for ladies has been styled the “Golden Gate Queen,” in trade parlance, and it is becoming to most faces and coiffures. A fauciful conceit in {ts way with an odd twist that gives it a rakish effect, which at least hasthe merit of removing “iff outlines, already the “Queen’” has , own decidedly popular, and so it promises to be quite generally worn this coming fall. The strangest thing about it is that this hat is the result of a dream. The foreman of a San Francisco’hat factory was given instractions to design a novel shape suit- able for the late summer or fall. He was at his wit's end, it seems, to think of something new, and this dwelt upon his mind, so that after retiring for the night visions of possible shapes floated about him. One idea met him everywhere, and next day he carried it into execution. The originals were made of fine Milan straw braid and trimmed with ostrich feathers. When shown to leading millin- ers it immediately found favor, and asa result large orders have been given for the “‘Queen.” In another week it will be seen on the streets much in vogue among the ladies. There will be a great variety in the hat, as it is made in felt, chenille, plush, satin, buckram and wire. The hat itself isvery simple in shape and construction, but when properly trimmed presents a really elegant appear- ance—jaunty and neat and ‘‘catchy.” One feature will not be forgotten by the ladies—that the new hat is of local make, and that its favorable reception has recu- perated an industry that was languishing for some time past. NEW TO-DAY. 1SSSSeeSSeSSs! \SPECIAL SAVING SALE FLOWER POTS. vided our entire stock 74 three lots, regardless of Forty Black Wrought-Iron Stands, suita- To make room for large shipments now of English, Rich Solid 7 C(i\/ \% price. They zo at 35c, = % 55cand 80c. A splendid flu/l‘ b.\ chance to buy a pretty ble for holding above pots, also go at 75 '( arriving we have di- \(A N7 3 il B A Color Jardinieres into Flower-pot cheap. cents and $1.50 each—~worth just double. A household Family Measuring Jars, 2.ooasensid measuring liquids, sugar, flour, etc., on special sale at 25 cents THAT BIG CHINA STORE— 4 Quarter of a Blook Below Shrave's. WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO. 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY. 4 FeeSeon Francusco 22 Geary St., Near Kearny. Plain_Black Fabrics. EXCEPTIONAL VALUES! Black Serge, Black Henrietta, Black Diagonal, Black Corkserew, Black Albatros, Black Bourette, Black Drap d’Alma, Black Cheviot, Black Sicilian, Black Camel's-Hair, Ete. Ete. Our assortment is the most com- plete in this city—at most moderate prices. Black Mohair, Black Crape Cloth, Goods sent C. 0. D. Samples for- warded. R. T. KENNEDY COMPANY. Telephone Grant 518. ELECTROLYSIS @ H7DMaRKET ST, CORNERTAYLOR B Oier i Maze) oo 28 EMOVES SUPERFLUOUS HAIR BY ELEC- may know at on that i the butoherbirds - o the work-af tricity at §1 a sitting; first sitting freé: no scars left; moles, warts, e'c., also removeds