The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 26, 1896, Page 29

'THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JULY 26, 1896 29 A Felix Creatian Gown Designed for Princess Maud Beautiful Novelties From Fashionable Genters of Europe ‘The last of the three gowns shown in the illustrations is from Felix and is composed of silk muslin striped with sets of gold sin- sel orsilk lines; from below the upper part of the sleeves to tho elbow the decreasing fullness is arracged into spaced tucks. ‘White satin bolero elaborately embroid- ered with gold and edged with lace re- lieved with gold threads, and finished off with smart revers in mordore velvet, each forming double points divided by a taper- ing fluting, and resting on delicate accor- dion pleatings of pink and green silk muslin. Long vest fronts in cream lace, describing close,coquilles round the neck end down the"sides. Velvet belt grace- fully knosted into loops and ear-like ends. Toque in fluffy lisse or white silk muslin, composed of masses of fine faille pleatings outlined with baby ribbon in black velvet, whith are veiled round the brim with black tulle. Wide loop to match. White end black oiseauxide paradis plumes. A tuft of roses and choux of muslin raise the brim at the back. The pretty evening frock is a model of simplicity, being made of a vpale rose glace taffeta. The bodice is gracefully draped with white monsseline de soie, two long scarfs of which extend down the right side e dged with laceat the ends, which is beautified with tiny opals sewn thickly over it. The same lace forms the very stylish sleeves. An edging of opals is seen on the mousseline, which is artisti- cally carried from the right arm to the left side at the waist line. The tea gown is one just completea for the trousseau of the Princess Maud. The de- sign, for a slender woman, is very grace- ful. It iscarried out in turquoite blue . figured silk striped with black. The yoke 1s made of straps of white guipure over black satin, alternating with bouillonnes of the blue silk. The puffs of the sleeves are trimmed to match. The Watteau back isdrawn in at the waist by a girdle of black ribbon. The gown is lined with a lighter shade of blue silk. I see that the Duchess of Marlborough was present at the marrigge of Lady Sophie Cadogan, which was the smartest wedding of the season in London. The Duchess wore a pink and gray shot glace silk, with a-collar-band and sash of pink glace. Her large black hat bad ostrich plumes to muteh and a bow of gray chine ribbon. The very pretty bride wore an unusually charming gown. It was of the richest ivory satin obtainable. Round the hem of tne skirt and the long train was embroidered a beautiful floral design in silver and small pearls. This was fin- ished at the edge with three tiny ruches of chiffon. The bodice was made with a chiffon yoke narrowly tucked and bor- dered with exquisite Brussels lace, over which softly draped chiffon, inserted with pearl and silver embroidery, was drawn intoa high satin sash. The transparent sleeves, of drawn chiffon, were completed at the top with bow epaulets of embroid- ered satin. Lady Bophie’s ‘‘going-away” dress, of ivory crepe de chine, had a sim- ple but lovely bodice draped with Alencon lace, caught at one side with the palest Malmaison carnations. At the neck a soft touch of this becom- ing silk was introduced. A quaint little cravat of lace was very becoming. The long, tight-fitting sleeves of ruched mousseline de soie had epaulets of crepe de chine, and the full, softly hanging skirt was edged with a ruching of mousse- line and lace insertions. Her large white hat was covered with feathers. The seven bridesmaids were attired alike in gauzy and ethereal gowns of ivory mousseline de soie, the full bodices veiled with flounces of deep cream lace, lightly embroidered with diamonds. The long sleeves of lace were transparent from the elbow, and the soft skirts, the foundations of which were of accordion-pleated glace, were veiled with two gkirts of mousseline de soie, the top one being finished with a narrow tulie ruche, The long sashes were of white glace ribbon, with a design of garlands of pale tinted flowers, tied with small true- Jovers’ knots, and were fastened on one side with diamond buttons, the long ends falling to the edge of the skirts, Their hats were of white fancy straw, caught up on oneside and sofily drapea around the crowns with folds of white tulle. They were trimmed with glace ribbon to match the sashes, black tulle and a plume of feathers on one.side tied witn a pow of ribbon, The Princess of Wales was in a lovely dress of ivory silk, brocaded in a design of mauve con- volvulus, with a folded belt and coliar of “mauve satin, and the skirt edged with lace insertion.. The Princess wore a white bonnet wreathed with mauve tulle, sprinkied with gold sequins with small tips of the same hue on the left side. The Princesses Victoria and Maud of Wales were dressed alike in grass lawn embroi- dered in pale blue and made up over blue silk; the fronts of the bodices were pretily draped with blue chiffon, the sashesand collars matching, and the skirts were edged with a narrow blue frill. They Wore toques composed of deep-hued rosesand foliage, with blue osprey at the side. 1f any of nry readers secured at the re- cent silk sales a goodly number of yards of crepe de chine they can at once have a gown in the very latest style, as there is an absolute rage for this fabric in Paris and London. One creation of the palest shade of gray has the hem of the skirt trimmed with three very narrow frills of Valenciennes lace. The bodice overhangsa corselet, and brace-like paulettes are made of creamy lace studded with silver sequins. Round the waist is twisted a belt of cherry-colored silk, which sgain appears at the neck. Quite as lovely is one of pale lavender tone. The simple skirt hangs perfectly, and the well-cat bodice has niched sieeves of whife mousse- line de soie. Of this the pretty vest is made, with the addition of innumerable little frills of Valenciennes. About the waist is twisted a ribbon of & deeper shade of the lavender, v i Roman Sashes a Fad in New York Revival of a Pretty Old-Time Docor- ation With Ribbons Among the very latest frivolities of rib- bon-loving womanhood is noted the re- yival of the sash. A hint from Paris gave the idea, & few American modistes quickiy appropriated it, and of a sudden sashes are taking the lead in the procession of fads, says the New York World. The revival of this pretty old time dec- oration is evident not only on the cos- tumes of young women and children, but of women of all ages. The elderly matron no.longer allows the generous curves of her figure 10 shape themselves uninter- ruptedly. Sash ribbons adorn her simplest gown and flaunt themselves gayly from the frocks that wouid otherwise be staid and sober. The opposite extremes of a fashion are wont to flourish contemporaneously and itis perhaps not annaturai that the modes of a single season should demand both the very narrow belt and the very wide sash. The inch-wide beit that requires mathematicai precision for its adjustment as well as an extraordinary trimness of figure can alternate only with the broadest and widest of sashes. The latter ar¢ con- sidered appropriate on any gown and many are of so rich texture and beautiful color that they are sufficient for the entire decoration of a costume. Roman sashes are in tbe highest faver, a fact which the owners of certain precious heirlooms will pe greatly gratified to hear, The wider the silk and the gayer the stripes and the heavier the material the more fashionable such an heirloom is. A sash combining delicate. shades of mauve, pink and blue and set off by plain stripes of black ana white will harmonize with aimost any of the light summer organdies and batistes, while the plain- relieved by such a2 addition. On the other hand there are sashes of deeper and richer tones with striking combinations of black, blue, green and gold that form charming accessories to the darker silks and muslins that are included in the sum- mer wardrobe. ¥ An illustration of the power of a Roman sash to give the distinctive touch to a cos- tume was noted the other eveningat a brilliant seashore function. The gown, which was worn by a slender young woman, was of black gauge. It was sim- ply fashioned and cut with a square neck was tied a sash, wherein black, gold flame-color and a touch of scarlet were most exquisitely mingled. Another novelty of the present season | takes the form of ganze sashes, & ver: hapby innovation. v ’ The sash itself is of black gause, bright- colored flowers being embroidered upon it | at frequent intervals in an approximately regular pattérn. Or the gauze may be white, if the zash is designed for wear with a lighter gown. The sash is bordered with ibbons tl are plaided, sir or flowered are used for sash d'nd thmm- berless styles of ribbon make, of course, a wide variety possible. When ribbon eight, ten ot twelve inches in width is used for making & sash, there is ususlly a bow on the shoulder of the gown of the same ma- terial. This is a new fancy and a very pretty one, the shoulder-knot of the stiff tafteta giving a very stylish touch even to | & simple gown. -y For the happy owner of & sash the first ness of a white or ecru gown is invariably | and drooping sleeves. About the waist 1 question is, of course, in regard to tying it. | All ignorant ones should know, then, that the bow, when the sash is of soft should be tied directly in the back.” The | loop-ends of the bowknot should be but | three or four inches in length, leaving the | ends to extend nearly to the bottom of the | gown. For a sash tied in this fashion three yards is a good length, though scme | of the newest sashes are only two and a | half in length. However, as the old-fash- | ioned sashes are-four or five yards long, and the length must be disposed of in some fashion, the otdtime bowknot, with 1oops and ends nearly -equal in length, | is stili frequently seen. If the beauty of | the sash justifies this departure from ac- cepted styles the wearer is not likely to be criticized. ‘When moderately narrow ribbon is used itis a pretty fashion to tie the bow at one | side of the front in a wide milliner’s knot | with several loops and two ends. This is becoming, however, ouly to slim figure: At present the sash is the most conspic- uous feature of fashionable dress. well that it is béing made the most of while it is here, for it is too charming and comfortable a fashion to endure long. Shonlder capes-and mantles are all now being marked down, and some of them are certainly to be had at figures which would not cover the cost of the fabrics employed. Those of grass lawn over silk, much beau- titied with appliques of lace and sequins, are sore temptations, but those of black chiffon over black satin, white satin or glace are well nigh irresistible. An even- ing cape of white cloth, lined with palest It is | bordered with an odd Paisley pattern and may be safely purchased and laid aside, | for it will do good service all next winter. Young girls who dress smartly are quite | fascinating in the latest hats made of | chiffon, alternating with small frills of | lace. They are to be had in shades of | pale pink and a delicate green principally, | these being the most becoming colors, A spray of roses, or a mauvre iris 1s the only trimming. This latter is a flower now enjoying great favor, but the reign of flowers is drawing to a close, for already the leading miliiners are discussing birds and wings. The every newest quills are of soft texture and curled. Thus far this novelty has not left Paris, so such quills | are extremely expensive. Ordinary cha- | peaux having black quills tipped with | white are in great demand. When used on | hat composed of a straw of a ficelle hue, tied with scarfs of grass-lawn ribbon, having a narrow silk edge, they look very well, but the latest fad in the most exclu- sive millinery establishments in Europe is a combination of white birds and cherries | or currants on the most chie of hats. There | is a steady demand for a Hclland toue of | straw. Very picturesque and becoming are the imported hats in Manilla or Ital- | ian straw, trimmed with white féathers, | birds of paradise and mixtures of roses | and ribbons beneath the brim at the side. i They appear to have been especially de- | signed to wear with the beautiful toilettes | of embreidered lawn , organdy and muslin | which have so delighted our artistic souls, | and it is true that at Ascot and the Grand | Prix the best of the frocks were certainly those of embroidered linen and those show- green taffeta, has a long scarf of the same ing lace or lawn bodices aliied to shot silk which ties in a great bow in front. Itis | skirts. \ Correct Things for Men : to Wear Sack and Regulation Lounge Suits or Morning Dress Unless & man 1intends to play lawn- bowls, golf er ‘tennis, or wishes to ride, drive or sail, he must, if at any fashion- able resort, if in his office, indeed, if visi- ble at all, appear in a lounge suit, but he has one choice; be may wear either the sack or the regulation lounge, or the morn- ing suit. The most fashionable lounge coat has three buttons, thé waistcoat and trousers being of the same fabric, or, as I bhave praviously remarked, a waistcoat of brown Holland or linen’ with horn but- tons is correct and popular. Such coats are rounded gradually away in front. In England the flaps of the pockets even are rourided and the coat must hang as nearly straight as possible. I have seen several excellent lounge suits here this summer, but many have a serious defect; the shoulders slope entirely too much, when, ' in reality, they should have a decidedly square effect. i I saw a New Yorker last Monday who certainly was curiously attired. He bad on an excellent covert coat, a good lounge suit, an incorrect hat, very pointed shoes, such as have entirely gone out, and the latest style gray suede self-stitched gloves. Truly an odd combination. Fancy tan shoes and suede gloves. Well, to. be sure, this particular man is not known, when at home, a8 ever being smartly dressed. I only mention these facts to call attention to the fact that care should be bestowed on every detail that relates to & man’s cloth- ing. £ For wear, when yachting, nothing has been found to equal blue serge made with a reefer or peajacket for stormy weather. Colored shirts dre worn with such suits, “yor a dinner Or an evening reception, if not in naval uniform, if simply a civilian on board a yacht, unless the occasion be extraordinary, the same rules prevail as at any other afternoon or- evening func- tion. The visitors, of course, are dressed as they would be on land, the members of the yachting party in their yachting clothes or in uniform, or in informal e: ing dress. Generally here the Cowes or drees jacket takes the placs of the evening coat by those who are liviyg on board the el S O A Very Ghic Woman A very chic woman looks her best in a white foulard silk covered with queer little black scrolls. In this case thanestis com- posed of black mousseline de soie over white satin. On the mousseline are appli- qued lscé roses. The sleeves have a very small puff and are ruched. This gown is so skillfully arranged that it can also be worn with a fichu of black mousseline de sole, round which Is seen a knife-pleating of mousseline, which, in turn, is edged with a little Valenciennes lace. Foulards are exceedingly fashionable and one hav- ing s white ground with & blue pattern upon it has lately been completed by a good woman. The bodige isseamed in the center of the back and drawn in narrow folds to the front, whereit is fastened with rosettes, ornamented with diamond but- tons. A loose rever falls on either side of the bust to reveal a fichu and collar made of esprit nat, outlined with grass lawn economical and desirable purchase, for it looks extremely well with a bodice of black chiffon, over white silk, trimmed | with white lace, or with one of white chiffon. with here and there & touch of One such skirt worn with an ac- black. cordion pleated white chiffon. bodice, having a transparent voke of fine black thread all traced with diamonds, was pro- | nounced a decided success. 1 do not presume it will de s particle of good to urge women not to wear their old black skirts of silk, satin or brocade with light bodices, for thev—most of them— dearly love the combination. It is far from effective usually, and in summer de- cidedly inappropriate. Those who pur- chase two or three brocade or chine bodices for this purpose' make a great mis- take, for if the skirt must be utilized let thé evening bodices be studies in black and white.or white dnd black. A broad corselet belt of jet traced with steel issaid to add much to such toilettes. Chiffon when arrayed picture fashion and crossed | is very btecoming to most figures, but remember, skirts of black canvas, made over black taffeta silk, are most desirablo | They are made perfectly plain, but they must be very well cut and hung, otherwise they nmade 1 basques of satin ribben, either black or colored, are | said to be coming into fashion, as are also the tabbed basques made with edgings of to wear with fancy bodices. lose their _.cachet. Bodices of silk showing tulle-fillea kilted ribbons. A bodice lately noted and much admired was madeof cream colorea satin, covered with' a creamy net of a deeper tone, the basque and collar befng edged with a quilling of satin. Maltese Liace in Vogue Maltese lace isagain in vogue, and with chiffon of a yellowish hue, itis quite de- lightful. Entire bodices with flled basques are being made yet with rare suc- cess. A piain but beautifully fine, white mauslin frock having motifs of maltese lace in wreath designs sewn round the bem is positively charming. Boleros are being made of all sorts and kinds of stuffs; for instance, one rather extravagant but very successful dress- maker utilized, the other day, for this pur- vose, & deep lace flounce with an applique of bright tinted velvet guipare round the top and down the sides. Sie isnow at work on two more. One of these will show a mossy green combination and another a lovely violet one. American and French women take very kindly to these smart little affairs and they cer- tainly give a certain air and a finish to any gown; one of Jace over a white alpaca, with a touch of.color, completely trans- formed it. A dress of white hopsacking has gone to Lake Tahoe. It hasa bolero braided in green and fichu outlined with & quilling of black satin ribbon. ‘When going on a short trip nothing is more comfortable than one of the very popular foulard dresses, and although they have dark grounds when used for such purposes, they are relieved by white vests and chokers. Some also wear white gloves and veils with them, but tan gloves #nd black veils are in better taste. A good model for such a gown hasaround bodice, A White - Grenadine What a Pretty Girl Took to Santa - Gruz The Fetching Ganvas Dress Worn by a San Rafael - Matron A pretty young girl last week took to Santa Cruz a white grenadine. The bodice is tucked from a yoke of sitk embroidery, which is outlined with a frill of the grena- dine, edgzed with violet ribbon, bordered again' with a narrow dquilling of black satin ribbon. No lovelier gown can be conceived for an informal dance; indeed, it is suitablé for even a large 'and formal affair. The ' lining is of white taffeta glace. I 'hke a frock she has of white pique, for it is not only very well made, but exceedingly useful as'well, Ithasa bodice made with some exceptionally fine Irish lace, and 2 short jacket as well, with which she wears dainty vests of chiffon and mousseline dé soie as well, as short waists of many colors, all well made ‘and most becoming, accompany this maiden, who is always smartly clad, on a very small allowance. A stylish matron wore in San Rafael re- cently a dark-blue canvas made overa crimson-silk foundation. The bodice had a yoke effect in front made of a very open Persian embroidery. The sleeves were tight-fitting with cuffs of the embroidery lined with crimson silk, which extended well over the hands. Full epaulettes of the same were very becoming. A simple black-straw hat with a roll of black chif- fon and some unusually fine crimson roses completed a stylish costume. Another, noted the same day, consisted of a light- weight cloth skirt of hunter’'s green and a chic jacket of a ° lighttan shade which - fitted most perfectly. I cannot understand why women will accept from tailors and dressmakers gowns that simoly | disfigure them. At presentIam thinking | of a friend who has an unusually beautiful figure, whom I lately met attired in a per- | fectly new tailor gown, and this garment, | although made to order, could not have | been & worse fit if bought ready made, for the ‘collar and revers wrinkled and set | simply “horribly. Unless a tailor-made eostume fits to perfection ‘about the neck it is & boich, and evem if you have fur- nished the materials it is wiser to leave it with tne tailor, as you will never have a moment’s satisfaction, if you have a proper pride in your appearance. MARCELLA. NEW TO-DAY. ISSOCSSeSOSSS Special Saving Sale BEER MUGS! Those quaint old German Blue-deco- rated, Metal-cover- ed StoneBeerMugs are all the rage now - for dining- room - ornaments, Good o drink beer from,too. Thekind like the piclure, regularly $1.00, on sale until Wednes- [day night at 65 Several other styles also go on sale at 70c, $1.10 and $1.35. To_make room for Fall importa- tions, our entire assortment of Fish Sets, Soup Sets, Meat Sets, etc., at one-third.less than.regular prices; some at just one-half, THAT BIG CHINA STORE— ! A Quarter of a Block Below Shreve's. WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO. 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY. A triple boxpleat in the back is put on as drapery, there being no seams, excepting those under the arms. A leathern belt, with a quaint anld handsome buckle, looks well as a finish. However, many prefer a girdle of ribbon to match the frock, which term inates in a smart bow. A beautiful woman should do every- thing possible to increase her charms, and an ugly woman should do everything pos- sible to hide her defects; in fact, an ngly woman, dressed with care, has many times proved a serious nival to a beautiful woman carelessly gowned. X From Newport comes the information that “many young matrons are wearing dazsling silks. Forexample, Mrs. F. M. P—is a perfect picture in a violet and white Pekine skirt, jupe unie, the siripes running straight up and down in front. Corsage of white mousseline de soie over white silk, entirsly plis: were particularly. pretty, - double ruffles plisse, and the lower arm close-fitting and well draped over the silk. ) *22 Geary 8t., Near Koarny.” Black Costumes more nopu. lar and the San Francisco BLACK GOODS HOUSE the depot for procuring the latest styles and best makes. Depot for Pristy’s .English Serges, 52 inch, 75¢ yard English Diagonal, 52 inel, 75¢ yard Priostly’s Fancies, $1to $2.50 yard SPECIAL! 40 Suits Etamine Nouveaute, regu. Tar pries $25 - $13.75 Suit Samples forwarded. Goods sent 0. 0.D, B. 7. KENNEDY- COMPANY. Telephone Grant 518. scars left; moles, warts, VES SUPERFLUOUS HAIR B tricity at $1 a sitting; fist sitting ELEC- free: no tc., also removed,