The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 19, 1896, Page 28

28 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JULY 19, 1896. Modish Frocks in Organdie or Lawn This week I give you three summer frocks which can be reproduced 1n musline, batiste, organdie or lawn with delightful results. The first has the skirt and bodice of creamy white bengaline, the sleeves and fichu being of mousseline de soie of the same tint. The fichu, sleeves and neck are finishea with mousseline deli- cately embroidered. The hat is of a satin butter-colored straw, the crown and inner brim® being composed of a coarse guipure lace. Wild roses with their leaves arise at the back. The large butterfly wings are made of white feather ana kilted net. The cream mousseline parasol is beautitied with guipure lace. I can highly commend the gown of gress lawn embroidered in a design of yellow roses and green leaves. The entire lining is of a soft and heavy yellow silk. About the bodice 1s introduced a welcome touch of satin green embroidered in yel- low roses. The front is of yellow net stuaded with gold sequins. The toilet of white Chine mohair is blurred all over with wild pink roses. The bodice is a zouave one of white bro- cade, embroidered richly with gold flow- ers. The soft vestis of pink, veiled with gold-dotted mousseline and completed at the waist with a golden ribbon band. The sleeves have caps of apple-green silk and are connected with the flowered sleeve by gold embroidery. Mousseline frills are inserted at the elbow and lace ruffles fall over the hand. The same lace, in a wider width, is arranged around the sboulders. Several quite unique gowns are being worn by Miss Johnstone, Miss Leechman and Miss Butherland in “The Little Genius” now running in London at the Avenue Theater. Miss Johnstone in the first act is especially noticeable in a *“Iabard” jacket of white satin antique, adorned with an appligune of cream guipure. The skirt is of chameleon silk and has two panels of white satin coy- ered with guipure, and knots of heliotrope velvet. The so-called jacket is a queer little garment, as it is not shaped at all to tbe figure and consists of two pieces of 'satin, cut so as to pin on the shoulders, and from the shoulders it hangs down straight, a small flap and a button only holding the sides together, ang this flap comes about two inches above the waistline. Any one can cut such a jacket, as nothing could be more simple; but to be a success it must be of the very richest fabric and it should be trimmed with costly lace or the most ex- quisite embroidery. Besides, only a slender, stylish woman should venture to | wearanything so conspicuous. I do not in the least care for Miss Leechman’s frock, which has been espe- cially admired, for the reason that I can see nothing novel or beautiful in its concep- tion, as the plaid silk sleeves have the same old-fashioned lace epaulettes. The | bodice has a_box-pleat of a shot blue and | white silk. The skirt is well cut and of the same silk as the box-pleat. At the | neck is a frill and ribbons, dark biue in color. Bows are aotted about the waist, giving it & home-made air—far from cred- itable to the well-known house which de- | signed it. The gloves almost reach the elbow, the sleeves being tight-fitting until exceedingly inexpensive. The powdered root should be purchased and put in sachets about your bureau drawers. They can also be sewn in your frocks. The genuine attar of rose can be indulged in by but few at $5a drop. How d I can almost believe the Persian story of the humming bird who was said to have died with delight on first alighting on the rim of a vat containing the delicious oil of roses. cious it is! | Handsome Specimens of Fairle Glass It isn’t bur a week or two ago that I | heard of the new kind of glass that had just been discovered and put on the mar- ket by Tiffany in New York and now you can buy the same novel and beautiful ware right here in San Francisco. Itis called fairle glass. I saw yesterday a met by asmall shoulder-puff. | Gorgeous and venturesome is tke even- | ing gown in which Birdie Sutherland makes her first appearance in this play. | It has a skirt of pale blue satin embroid- | ered in red and siiver. Shaded velvet | rises applique, the calyx being formed of | steel passementerie. Deep blue velvet panels are iuserted, aud these are simply covered with embroidery in steel and silver. A silver design with fringe is introduced just below the waist. The white chiffon bodice is covered with delicate silver em- broidery. Four chains of pearis form the sleeves, to the upper one of which is | attached a full frill of lace on the left shoulder, and on the right the frill is less than half the size, being attached to the second row and headed with knots of blue ribbon velvet. The upper part of the velvet panels is covered with cascades of the creamy lace. The bodice has = deep corselet of the velvet embroidered in silver and edged both top and bottom with large pearis. The creamy white suede gloves wrinkle very slightly on the arm, and only extend | about four inches above the elbow. Ican | imagine that this will be an effective dress | for the stage, and one that may furnish | a few ideas for some of our evening frocks, but, oh, what dreams and how exquisite must be the gowns owned by a French Duchess. All were designed by the great- est artists in Paris. “*One daffoail-yellow damask petticoat and train is adorned with painted and em- broidered irises in their natural colors, while a colossal iris serves as coiffure, its velvety petals being incrusted with dia- mords. A long-trained gown of willow- green satin is covered with Malmaison roses, veiled by floods of golden tulle, | moired with silver, rubies and diamonds, forming a regal complement to this poeti- cal woilet. Yet another is of swan-like whiteness, the material a rich brocade, scattered all over with tufts of white mara- bouts and showers of pearls. The diadem worn with this will be of turquoises and diamonds, making a stomacher made of the same stones.” Now that it is correct to have a delicate perfume linger abont one’s belongings— and when, may I ask, has this not| been correct ?—I cannot suggest anything more delightful whan orris root, which is so beautiful gem in fairle glass. In colorit was of 8 warm golden yellow and through it passed odd fantastic broken lines of black. Iat once desired to own it, but, alas! it was 'quite too expensive. There were dozens of pieces standing on the same table, not any two alike, and a cozy little room was fitted up with shelves all round covered with the most marvelous specimens of glass you can conceive of, all made here in America, and it is not his countrymen alone who gaze with wonder and admiration on Mr. Tiffany’s great dis- | covery, for all connoisseurs and artists are | striving to find appropriate adjectives to | express their delight. At home ana abroad many of the great- est museums of the world have purchased collections of fairle elass for permanent exhibitions. Besides Mr. Tiffany has been made a member of L'Ecole des Beaux Arts of France and of the Society of Fine | Arts of Japan. | Objects made of this glass are not only | wonderful in color and novel in form but they also have other beauties given them | by carving, by cutting through one layer | of glass down to one of another color, by enrichments of metallic lusters and iri- descent irradiations of scintillating colored lights that rival the most brilliant opal, lusters that are far beyond any metalline effects heretofore obtained. A small scent bottle looked as though it had peen fashioned out of a most superb | agate. It mensured about four inches and was worth $12. Many of the pieces on ex- hibition are coined from rare Greek, Ro- man and Pompeiian models. One stand for matches looked quite like an ordinary piece of silver, but as it by magic every color in the rainbow seemed to pass over it in quick succession the moment I sub- jected it to an examination. Every object I saw was worthy of a place in of on one’s cabinet, and none but artists could have so blended colors and tints, or have so introduced the rarest and most exquisite of flowers under fairy-like | glazes. Think of all the beautiful glass and china you have ever seen or dreamed about and imagine glasses fit for Queen Titinia to sip the morning dew from, and vases worthy to hold the fairest, rarest blossoms that blooni and you will have some idea of this new achievement in glass, ’phe subject of lamp shades is an inter- esting one for aimost every woman, so I geel called upon to give you the very latest information concerning them, as it is pre- dicted that the new “lantern” shape will CORRECT TENNIS COSTUME soon drive out the umbrella and pagoda, although I confess the present style is prettier and more effective. However, if the “lantern’ shape is the smartest and latest, our favorites are doomed. At pres- ent silk is principally used. For instance, if you wish to make an experimental one, purchase or have made to order a four- sided lantern shape, those tapering to- ward the base being prettiest; then cover perfectly smootaly with any shade of silk you wish, Yellow is always & wise selec- tion, asa touch of it is welcome in any room, and in quality see that it is good. Many of the carriages which were used at the Tsar’s coromation were painted with the most exquisite figures by Wat- teau in his palmiest days. All the state equipages were gilded and many were composed of glass, so that the occupants could be distinetly seen no matter how in- clement the weather. Among expensive novelties are gold and silver purses, which hang from jeweled or plain chains to match. “The purse is sus- pended from the center of the corsage, or when that is not possible, ‘rom the belt | ribbon or girdie, the chgins festooning the bodice.” There is also a craze for jeweled belts and monocles, and the rings now worn by the smartest women are simply huge affairs. Bracelets are very chic, be- ing composed of strings of jewels held in place by threadlike chains of gold. Glo- rious great gems are suspended in the same way around the throat, and marvels of the goldsmith’s artare the diamond settings which are so constantly and effect- ively employed. Tinras, slides, collars, stomachers, orcaments for the bair, bracelets and rings are of exceptional beauty; cabochons are in high favor as mountings of purses, cardcases, fan and parasol mountings. 1 MARCELLA. | sively for golf and they are certainly the | el “\\m ( oe040-0+0 Straw Hats Are Worn in London Jown Soft fronted shirts are enjoying great popularity and are to be had in all colors. | The white are being worn almost exciu- | most fashionable. i “Him” is still in England, so his bits of information are, as usual, valuable. In his last epistle we are informed that ‘‘straw hats are coming in in England, and they are very high of crown and narrow of brim; that shirts and ties are subdued in color, and the inevitable pinks and blues; the shirts striped, and the ties of cotton or linen are seen on all sides; that also the era of the golf colored stock is at an end, | and that one does not see it in England nor in Ireland; that blue cheviots and serges, that grays with greens, that browns with greens, as I have already remarked, | are the rage, and that we are approaching rapidly a conservative state of dress when bright and glaring bues will be no more, and men will not resemble itinerant harie- quins or walking parterres of bright-hued blossoms.” The smartest gloves this summer are unquestionably gray suede or undressed kid. When riding in the park in New York and at Newport 1n ths afternoon men wear ordinary trousers, strapped under the or- dinary walking-boot, black cutaway coat of vicuna, gloves and wv hat. In the morning may be donned the reguiation whipcord and corduroy riding rig. ‘When driving four-in-band a gray driv- ing coat with large buttons and a top hat may be worn, but the afternoon dress is usually seen, thatis to say hight trousers, a black frock coat and top hat. Concerning their clothes the best-dressed men of to-day are exceedingly conserva- tive. 2 43 our last yachting season was nearing its close the *half-rater’’ (writes an East- ‘rn authority), had found its way into the affections of all yachtsmen, who construe yachting to mean handling your own boat and testing your own nerve and seaman- ship against that of the other fellow. 'This year the half-rater is to the yachtsman what the bicycle is to the ordinary citizen. From seaside, riverside and lakeside come one of these cries: ““We are going to build,”” “We are building,” or “We have built.”” Almost every day a new rater is launched on the waters of Long Island Sound, now a regular fleet is bobbing and nodding up and down. The haif-rater, be 1t understood, is built only for racing and the training and turning out of racing skippers. The most expensive balf-rater costs no more, including everything, than double the price of a first-class bicycle. Again I quote: “It represents a class of cheap little boats, something that two lads or a couple of bank clerks, by clubbing their savings together, can buy, and, as the craft is not big enough to carry a professional hand, can race all summer and extract for them many hundred dollars’ worth of fun at very few dollars’ actual expense. It is in this democratic cheapness that the con- tinuance and well-being of the haif-rater class lies. A half-rater should be like the evening dress, which puts the millionaire banker and his clerk on equal footing for the time being. Thomas Fleming Day, the vachting expert, puts the matter well when he says: ** ‘If we sanction or allow the zoing to extremes in construction so 8s to run the expense up into the beyond $500 it will kill the half-rater in two seasons. There is but one way to prevent this and that is to sit down on lead—limit the amount of weight that can be slung beneath the keel. Unless this is done the costly fin machine will make its appearance and the hali- rater class will go the way of all classes.’ ” It is safe to predict that ere long numer- ous half-raters will be scudding across our bay; but there is no need to expatiate, for every lover of the water, every true yachts- man, will be impatient to invest in one of thése little $200 craft. When Mr. Stephens desighed the dainty | half-rater Ethelwynn, be was acknowl- edged to have beaten the British at iheir 7 Dyl = 000D QoD Bepefe LATEST COACHING COAT own game, for they introduced the half- raters to us about a yearago. To give you an idea of the outlines and construction of such a craft, it is best to read the descrip- tion of the Ethelwynn from Vogue: “She is in every respect a pretty craft. Her stern is carried out into a sharp point, her overhang is used in lieu of a bowsprit and her counter runs into a neatly shaped transom. The total weight of the hull is 385 pound or about twenty-four pounds to every foot of designed load length. The keel is of spruce, with no stern knee, the timbers running from end to end in one clean piece. The transom is of mahogany; the frames of steamed rock elm; main frames of the mast, the bulkheads, natu- ral crooked hackmatack, a wood more durable in water than the best oak. The planking is of white cedar one-eighth inch thick, laid diagonally, and one-fourth inch mahogany laid fore-and-aft with wunion silk between the inner and outer skins.” C. C. The Comtesse de Castellane looked posi- tively pretty at the fancy-dress ball re- cently given by the Duchess de Rohan in Paris. The American Countess appeared as the Marquise de Pompadour as Boucher represents her; her gown was an exact re- production, very rich and costly. The gowns at Newport this season are ravish- ingly beautiful. Vogue’s correspondent at this delightful spot so admirably describes a certain confection that I cannot resist giving you the description she writes: “Mrs. O—— G—— is wearing for the sec- ond time the gown she christened at the Chantilly Derby. You are to fancy you are looking at a very odd and very yellow lace skirt, & combination of needlework on lace—a charming design, which is well built over a yellow taffetas. The bodice and sleeves are en suite, as sim- ple as possible, quite untrimmed, ex- cept the laces at throat and wrists. An over - dress of Cairo green twilled foulard gives the gown its cacler. On the skirt you are to imagine seven graduated foulard bands descending Irqm the belt, which, by the way, is only a twist of much darker velvet on the same shade, to the hem. FEach band is finished on the bottom by five half-inch tucks. A few inches below the belt is another group of five tucks, and several inches below these is another group of five more, the effect of the whole being extremely new and chic. A double foulard box pleat, tucked cross- wise in groups of three, is laid down the back of the bodice, and on cach sida of the fronts the same tucked effect is carried out. A jabot of lace falls below the double ruff in front. The ruff quilling is of green lisse with lace flounce plisse inside. The hat or turban was such a beauty! A pe- culiar yellow straw almost smothered in lilies-of-the-valley, of & kind that are in greenish bud, with an upstanding green osprey at the back rising above the yellow tulle and lily cache-peigne. No more charming toilette could one devise, for be- comingness and that bappy milien of service for various occasions.” At 8an Rafael during the past week not a few pretty frocks were commented on, but many wonder why a greater number of mulls and organdiesare not worn, for just now 8an Rafael is assuredly a warm and sheltered spot. One young and slender matron in half mourning looked smart in an exceptionally fine black India silk cov- ered with very small white dots. The skirt was absolutely plain and well hung. B AT gy 3P ST B AR IO =8 SR A Schoolgirl's Pretty Gostume For Cycling The same correspondent comments fa- vorably or a cycling costume worn by a schoolgirl not yet out of her teens. It was, of course, tailor-made, and was com- posed of & tan twilled cotton canvas. It had at the sides of the skirt fan-shaped plaits; the only trimming consisted of match buttons and tabs opposite to each other for trimming. The cuirasse bodice ftted closely and was simply stitched and fastened at the side. The white pigue col- lar fitted the shoulders, and besides had a rolling collar. A tie of fine mull gave a smart finish to the neck. Two sets of white pear! buttons broke the rigidity of the pique down the front. A white Alpine straw hat crowned the pretty head. A brown ribbon band encircled it and some brown quills were at the left side. Tan boots of the same materisl as the gown were well finished with russet leather facings. A pretty belt of white leather and brown wash-leather gloves completed an ideal costume, but how absurd it does seem to have had cotton canvas used for such a dress, for we all know how it shrinks and shrinks, | indeed it seems as though each time this | fabric is washed it shrinks a little more, | and it does seem a pity that the school- girl should have to give up ker fetching toilet after its first visit to the laundry. | Let me suggest that in future she should | have linen canvas used instead, which has | first been washed, as she will find it far | more satisfactory, and, speaking of fabrics | shrinkine, reminds me that an old laun- dress told me that goods likely to snrink should never be put into boiling or very hot water, as moderately hot water answers every purpose and does not cause the threads to contract. But be- fore leaving the subject of bicycle cos- tumes [ must add a few more lines from a New Yorker: **Whatever costume we may choose to ride in, the chief thing is to avoid all masculine suggestions of shirt- fronts and ties, hats, etc. Nothing is so revolting as a woman aping men’s attire. On the contrary, every woman’s habit, if tailor-made, as it should be, is quite severe enough in itself, and should be re- lieved by a feminine grace of cravate, or hat, or any little clever touch not inappro- priate to the occasion. The jewelers are fit- ting up dainty wheelwomen ' perfect little cases to hold purse, scent bottle, extra mouchoir and one or two other conven- iences, if desired. A wheel case, for pro- tecting the machine from injury when stored as luggage aboard cars or boats, 1s another sensible contrivance. Name and adadress should be printed in full oncanvas in the same lettering as would be used on a trunk.” In France the most fashionable women wear strictly tailor habits and always a skirt reaching to the shoe tops or ankles, but cycling is no longer a fad there. Vulgar and unrefined persons have al- ways, and always will, use common, rank odors, and no one can supply that delicate sense which leads its fortunate possessor to select the most delicate and refined of perfumes, and let no one imagine that mustiness or other odors can be disguised by the use of strong perfumes. Use soap and water and look sweet and clean at all events, even if you cannot have a breath of fresh violets about vou at all times. On account of the ‘‘exquisitely subtle shades” of the fabrics employed in the composition of our toilettes, fashion has decreed that the only correct complexion this season is one of ‘‘pure cream with faintest filterings of pink on cheek and chin, and lips of liquid crimson.” It is quite interesting, this description, and further this particular autbor tells us that it is now considered ‘‘as little shortof a crime to walk abroad with cheeks clad in the flame of poppies.”” We at the most must have no deeper color than ‘‘the heart of an opening blush rosebud.” Why, until now I fancied the heart of a blush rose was of a bright hue. T have not bzen sufficiently observant evidently, but I shall investigate at once. MARCELLA. Dainty Mourning Gown of India Silk The front of the round waist was like that of a shirt waist and unusually good silver studs held it together down the front. The turndown collar was a simple little black silk affair, daintily embroidered in a vine- like pattern with white silk. The cuffs were treated in asimilar manner. Very chic was a black serge made with the usual unadorned skirt and a bodice which had a brown linen vest and across it, in military style, were draped black silk cords. A round black straw hat with three short but excellent ostrich feathers. and a roll of white mousseline de soie about the crown, suited the wearer admirably. A certain little air sarrounds the Signora Duse which makes her especially interest- ing, so a few lines concerning her from an English weekly are worthy of your atten- tion: “Signora Duse seems to have created a more favorable impression as regards her stage gowns in America than she did in London. One critic discovers that she has a perfect genius for dress. Perhaps the great actress has developed this lately; it was scarcely apparent when she visited us last year. In ‘Magda,’ when playing in New York, she wore but two gowns. The one a morning dress of black satin, with a front of gathered white chiffon. The long tight sleeves of lace appeared from beneath a drooping sleeve of black satin lined with purpiish pink. Scarfsof black, lined with pink, hung irom the shoulders and knotted at the waist, and fell to the | hem of the skirt. La Duse’s evening gown had a fuil plain skirt of white moire. The low bodice was veiled across the front and round the V-shaped decolletage at the back with vellow lace, which terminated on the left hip in a bow and long sash ends of crape edged with lace. The only touch of color was a large cluster of crimson roses and foliage. The opera wrap of rich white brocade was made with huge sleeves and revers, and was lined with white satin.” At the present moment there is a perfect craze for strawberries at the French capital, as it is said that Mme. Tallien, who was noted far and near for the purity of her complexion, always had twenty ounds of strawberries crushed in her ath. NEW TO-DAY. mosseessssss!t ‘We place on saie until Wednesday night 175 Banquet Lamps, 20 inches high, polished gold vlate, onyx columns, with “B. & H.” center-draft - burner, the finest made. A handsome silk shade, with chiffon trimming, goes with ev- ery lamp. The$5 50 kind go at $375, the $6.50 kind at $425 the $8 kind at $5. Mail orders, with cash in- closed, filled if posted be- fore Wednesday night. THAT BIG CHINA STORE A Quarter of a Block Below Shreve’s. WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO. 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY, [SesSSSssSsssse 22 Beary St., Near Kearny. The Black Goods House will place on sale during the coming week several lines of superior makes in BLACK KID GLOVES WHITE KID GLOVES At an unusual reduction from regular prices, with the object of largely in- troducing their superior merit. SEE THE VALUES IN BLACK DRESS G0ODS! Samples forwarded. Goodssent0.0.D, B. T. KENNEDY COMPANY. Telephone Grant 518. ‘makes the whole fam- ily happy. Send five two-cent stamps for ‘WOMANKIND three months and receive FREE the Woman- kind Cook Book, filled with tested recipes of practical housekeepers. You'll like the paper. It’s able, bright and ¢lean. Address, WOMANKIND, WENTION Twis PaPen. Springfield, Ohio, 'Q (3 1170 MarKeT 9T, CORNERTAYLOR i (Overie Maze) Ruom 20 89 'REMOVES SUPERFLUODS HAIR BY ELEC- tricity at $1 a sitting; first siti & scarslett; moles, . ™ 'Warts, efc., also removed.