The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 5, 1896, Page 29

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JULY 5, 1896. CounTEss (ANNA GoULD) CASTELLANE IN HER GOWN OF PINK JAPANESE SHIN-SHIN, WORN AT A RECENT FASHIONABLE GATHERING IN PARIS. From all quarters we hear of weddings and enga ements, t aux and wed- 2 gifts. Among the most interesting weddings in Wash- ington, D. C., last month, were those of Miss Stevenson and Miss Fenwick. You have all heard, or read, excellent de- seriptions of the first charming girl’s gown and gifts, but per- haps you did not know that, for the first the Senate sent a beautiful love token, which will always, it is needless to say, be avalued heirloom. Very handsome was the great roll of white satin brocade be- stowed upon her by the Chinese Minister. As some one wrote, each beautiful remem- brance seemed to have some specially fas- cinating significance. Pretty Miss Fenwick, an exquisite bionde, who has not only cameo-like features and golden hair, but a most fasci- nating smile as well, was married the same day 2t noon. The quaint old church where her mother had been married was converted into a fairy-like spot by th masses of palm fronds that arched their beauty against the glowing background. Against this palm grove the bridal pro- cession was massed, a train of about a dozen maids and ushers, the maids all in pink, with picture hats. While waiting for the coming of the bride the organist played ‘‘Annie Laurie,” the same air that was rendered when the bride’s mother was married. After the maids and ushers had taken their place every one looked for the bride to follow, but instead, next en- tered all her classmates from Columbian University, maids and men, in their Ox- ford caps and gowns. Most effective was this innovation, recalling to many lines from the *‘Princess.’” No one can ever accuse the American matron or maid of not possessing many original ideas, and from Baltimore I hear that at the Robinson-Morton wedding by way of novelty the bride’s cake was pink, put up in pink boxes tied with ribbons to match. The bonbons, ices, and every- thing you can imagine at a perfectly served and elaborate breakfast, were of a rosy hoe. The coming marriage of the Princess Maud will be interesting, as she is a young woman of strong individuality, bright,gny and so full of mischief that, With all who know her, she is a great favorite, and even were not this the case the gowns designed in Paris for a Princess Must excite a pleasurable amount of Curiosity in most feminine minds. For €Xample, one white gauze frock destined foraball is of white gauze embroidered Wit appliques of Louis XV lace mixed [Reproduced from the New York World.] Evening Gowns of White Satin | And Diamonds | with diamond and sky-blue stones; this is | sliver brocade. The sleeves have puffs time in the history of the United States, | made over white satin. It is half long,a | Tow of embroidery encircles the foot. The ; low bodice 1s made with a rounded point, | the embroidered gauze being introduced | as trimming. The sleeves are short and | puffed. Another evening dress is of white satin embroidered all round with imitation diamonds, which are also introduced at | the sides in quilles. The low bodice has two crossed scarfs worked with beads and | diamonds. On the left shoulder isa bunch | of white and mauve acacia. A calling | costume of sapphire blue velvet bas been | greatly admired, moonlight blue spangles i and steel adorn it; the pointed bodice has | long Henry II sleeves with very moderate | puffs. The large collar is a la Medicis and | in front of the bodice is a bouffant of sky- | blue satin veiled with white tulle. | A dress for the races is composed of black | and white striped Pekin, with small roses scattered over the white. The bodice is of | the same with small close sleeves, the smallest possible puff is at the top. A | large falling collar extends to the waist of | guipure, and in front is a soft vest of white | mousseline de soie. Yet one more evening | gown must I describe. It has a cuirass | bodice of pink satin veiled with white | tulle, richly embroidered with white silk braid spangled with silver, gold, diamonds | and mauve. | Tiisembroidery extends in points much | lower than the hips on the pink satin skirt. The neck and front of the bodice is completed with straps and bows of black velvet and white tulle. From the same celebrated house comes | an elaborate evening cloak of satin ble | (jhat istheshade of ripe corn). Silver and diamonds are combined in the rich em- broidery which adorns the front and back. The Louis XV style is carried out. Long rand wide are the sleeves and the cape is | cut in scallops embroidered like the rest and edged with a flounce of white gauze having a satin border. A pink taffeta sacque has square tabbed basques bordered with black vel- vet, and also embroidered in the Louis XV style with iris beads and gold, in front is a mass of plisse tulle and velvet bows, between the embroidered revers are a few large diamond buttons, The sleeves have toward the back at the topa puff, otherwise they fit closely, with a Louis XV cuff av the wrist. Thus far no article of this Princess’ trousseau has given her so much pleasure as a coat of rich white satin. Instyle it is Louis Quatorze. The revers, gauntlet cuffs and deep collar are of an exquisite which reach to the elbows. Beyond the cuffs extend frills of chiffon, daintily worked with silver. The chiffon appears asfrills on the full vest of white satin. Now, the reason the Princess is delighted with this coat is because it is a work of love of six young girls who are learning the art of dressmaking. Their instructors furnished the materials which they have so skillfully put together, willingly hav- ing given up their spare moments and holidays to complete it. This hit of seati- ment naturally appealed to the maiden so soon to become a wife. A fetching scrap of a woman who had lately become a matron certainly has ex- quisite taste and extravagant ideas, which a skillful woman ably carries out. For instance, imagine a canvas dress of very coarse texture, of a ficelle tint, mounted on white taffeta, the full bodice over- hanging a very narrow belt of white kid, braided with white silk braid, showing a vest embroidered im white silk cut down to the waist, thus revealing s dainty waistcoat of creamy mounsseline de soie, With this charming conception is to be worn a black chip hat, Yined with white, of thefashionable Lamballe shape. Scarfs of black and white mousseline de soie edged with lace, a cluster of black and white ostrich feathers and a cachepeigne of wisteria gracefully trimmed. Such an artistic frock, not many moons ago, was worn by a sylph-like blonde ata garden party. It was of the palest green crepe de chine, with braces and a corslet of the very finest lace studded with silver sequins. Round the waist was twisted a velvet ribbon just two shades darker than the gown. This appeared again at the throat, but was covered with the sequined lace. A hat of cream Tuscan, having a white chio lining, tea roses, tulle and a touch of green velvet, went perfectly with the costume. At the same affair was noted a black silk spotted grenadine over white silk, made with a tucked white chiffon vest which hung from a small yoke which was made of the finest imitation opals I have ever seen. Quite bewitching is a gown for & fashion- able resort of mauve and white shaded | brocade, with mauve satin collar and vest enriched with green and mauve sequins; 29 A TrI0 OF DAINTY HATS AND WAIsTS FROM THE PARIS AND LoNDON FASHION PLATES. The yachting sea- son has come, so Red- fern has been fairly outdoing himself, as all admit the charm of his creations. Kor a tall and slender woman what could be more suitable than his latest? The skirt and a novel pointed over - bodice are formed of fine white serge; the under- bodice, which is made to fit easily and without much fuliness, being of a soft thick washing silk, matches the serge. The plain under-sleeve are of the same white silk. What gives this gown so unus- ualan amount of novelty and style is the way the back and front of the bodice are connected. The immediate center of the back of bodice is composed of one deep vandyke of the white serge; the point, however, terminates in a small full basque; then a wide sash of navy surah starts where the basque is held down by two gilt anchor buttons. Half of this sash is continued across the front in the matter of a deep waistbel!, while the other half 1s separated into three folded bands, which are in their turn fastened to the fronts of bodice by the same kind of gold naval buttons as are employed at the back of basque. All the outliningof this smartfrock has been carried out in a fine navy cord, and it woula bedifficulttofinda more perfect gown, either for shore-going or the more serious business of deck wear. The model illusirated may be worn by any one with a good figure. Iam quite in love with it. We are told the skirt is *‘of navy solent serge. The upper part of the bodice is a unique adaptation of a bolero jacket, and is made of white serge of the same manufacture as the skirt, A band of navy-blue is applique to the edge of the shoulder-epaulettes, to the tabs of the col- lar and those coming from the neck, both front and back, and the same serge appears between the curled design, which edges the bolero. This design is formed of a lovely tinsel braid, a mixture of many shades of gold, so deftly woven in with strands of silk as to give the braid a soft, old-metal appearance. This braid edges the bands of navy on the other parts of the upper bodice and navy satin lines in the epaulettes. What gives such a dis- tinction, however, to this elegant costume is the soft, dull silk of which the loose under bodic: and sleeves are composed. The design is a fine equal stripe of white and Seyres-blue, which tones exquisitely with the other material employed. The hat of Panama straw is trimmed with bows, and a painted flag appears on one of the upstanding ends, denoting that its wearer possesses the open sesame to the inclosure of the R. Y. 8. White doe gloves and white silk parasol, with a stripe of blue satin round the edge of the cover.” From an equally celebrated tailor 1s a chic bicycle suit of fine white serge, with which are to be worn white hat, veil, gloves and the daintiest of little black laced kid boots. The skirt reaches the ankles, and under it are worn riding breeches of a heavy white cloth. “The reason why I cannot tell, but this I know I know full well” (I cannot con- tinue to quote the old rhyme, for it would not be applicable) every fashionable woman in Paris has purchased, or or- dered, within the last few dly!\ucha poussiere, and the latest is called the “Manon,” as it resembles the cloak worn by Manon-Lescant when she descended from the coach, but the “Manon” cloak now so popular is cut to fit the figure, in- stead of hanging from the neck in numer- ous plaits. At the Grand Prix was worn a cloak pronounced stunning. It was com- posed of & light weight covert coating, very simple, with an exceedingly wide cape and an equally large collar. It was lined with a rich taffeta and was only trimmed with scallops of the cloth, ap- parently buttoned down each side. Not only are hand-painted grenadines to be had, but musling covered with tiny bouquets are purchased by the ex- travagant. One white muslin wascovered Some of the Liatest Gycling and Yachting signed in black tulle a Lancret hat. At the left side is a large bow of pistache | surmounted | velvet by a quantity of gor- geous carhations of all colors en aigrette. And how would you like a'‘paille d'Italie’’ baving a black vel- vet roll encircling it, with large bunches of Malmaison roses? Lovely is a coarse green straw veiled in Suits with bouquets interspersed with lines of | pale Nile tulle and pink carnation light blue. The bodices to such dresses are usually a mass of the finest embroidery with frilled basques, but lace jackets are also liked in the bolero shape, and the prettiest of corselets are made of glace silk, which is usually of red and white, pink and white or blue and white. Most of the styles about which we read are designed for those blessed if not with perfect at least with fairly good fig- ures; the plump maid and matron are usually quite forgotten, when in reality they should be shown the greatest consid- eration, and more models should be cre- ated especially with a view to making un- becoming curves vanish, So with pleasure I make tne following quotation, which may prove useful: “One word about the special style of bodice which never fails to be the most becoming and helpful for figures which nature has made too abundant for grace or beauty. This is the basque bodice,with the basque cut deeper than usval. The outer material of fronts muyst be draped tightly and separately from neck-band to bottom of the waist or points. It matters not whether the material is wool, silk or batiste. The front may be open to bust line, drooping into a poin't. A chemisette of lace or lawn, according to gown ma- terial, with ribbon or lace choker. Deep square collar revers turn back from this opening. If of silk they are to be cov- ered with fine lace, but if of lawn needle- work is most effective. A plisse lace drapery should fall from the bottom of chemisette to the basque ends or points in a perfectly straight line with square finish, ‘When the gowr is of lawn, the same ma- terial tucked or plissed, or an all-over fall of needlework to match collar revers, will answer capitally. “By this style of front the very pro- nounced lines of the figure appear to vanish, and the size of the waist is not made so evident, hence the figure for that reason is greatly improved and 1s far more pleasing to the eye.”” For a young woman with a beautiful figure nothing is more stylish than the Louis X111 bodice; whether built in silk, tissue, velvet, batiste, it carries its effect wonderfully. Imagine a gauffered straw- colored tissue, with a corded velvet Bayadere stripe to match as the chosen material with which to drape crossways the decollete carre sllk under-bodice, of the same shade, to be fastened at the side. The tissue sleeves fall over the hand in crenated edges, while the ubper parts are very bouffant and well pushed up. A picturesque lace collar gives the needed cachet. An oval of net has a rather wide flounce of Point de Flandre gathered on quite full, and is caught in the back by two diamond buckles. The collar lies across the shoulders, the drapery arranged over the sleeves. A jeweled collar or diamond buckle and velvet is a necessary neck ornament to wear with this style of corsage. One of the hats here given is of a gray straw draped with gray tuile, over which ostrich plumes nod gracefully. I like the simple Leghorn chapeau. Around the brim is a tulle ruche, and a wide veivet band encircles the crown. A pair of good white ostrich tips beautify one side, and a bunch of pink roses nestle at the base of the feathers. The hat with the queer ““jam-pot crown" has a brim formed of drawn black net, the crown being of white lace. A great bow of ribbon and a cluster of roses give it the true Parisian air. For the Fete des Fleurs has been de | finish—but *you will seldom find an| s. Equally well I should like a fine rice straw | roses in pale shades| placed closely together on one side be- | beautified with neath the brim. The crown is formed by a graceful'y arranged square of China silk drawn together with a coral and dia- mond ornament, For large hats veils of white maline are the latest; they are covered with large lack spots far apart. The most beautiful and costly gems con- tinue to be worn on the evening gowns of all who can afford them, the black gowns so incrusted, but very handsome are the black dresses from a celebrated house, which are greatly en- riched with handsome cut jet with which is combined much green iridescent orna- mentation, combining white silk or satin in the revers, which are veiled with jet, and lisses is usually employed as a vest. I wonder if any of you have heard of “Pegamoid?’ It is & should I not say a preparation—which, be- ing applied to wall and ceiling papers, leathers of various makes and kind, blinds, bedticks, hancings, and linings for ward- robes and cupboards, and many other sub- Most chic are | substance—or | Englishman who is not correctly dressed for the function or hour of the day.” Even in London, however, men are bee coming careless concerning their attire, and what do you suppose is blamed for ‘this? The bicycle. For men show an in- clination to wear at all times and places their cycling costumes until they have to dress for dinner. On racing days many men are scen in dark gray twill frock suits. For wear in the country a brown tweed suit, with & brown Hamburg and a Hol- land waistcoat, is useful. Tan suede gloves and a pink shirt should complete it, with a becoming tie. Again and again the question is asked, “Must I wear a frock coat and a silk hat to church on Sunday?” I quote an answer which fully covers the ground : It depends upon circumstances and the local custom. The correct dress for sum- mer at church on Sunday anywhere is the high hat and the frock coat; but where few, if any, are wearing frock coats or high hats, one should conform to what the majority does. The frock coat and high hat as a fashion is distinctly derived from London. Itistbe almost universal dress for men at business in London, or in the afternoon. One will see more high hats and frock coats in London in one day than can be seen in New York in a month, Climate has much to do with all fashions. The high hat and frock coat are very uncomfortable articles in hot weather, and of late years even Londoners have shown an inclination to abandon them and adopt the straw hat and lounge suit in the summer months. In the United States the customs of dress are also gov- erned by the climate, and whereas one would never seem extreme in dress in wearing the frock coat and high hat on Sunday, at church or at any other semi- formal occasion, he would likewise not seem careless in his dress or dressed in- appropriately if they wore a dark jacket suit and a straw bat. Our recommenda- tion is to observe what others do and to be guided accordingly. No one ever thinks of going on a jour ney of any length wearing a silk hat, and this reminds me that in spité of all pre- dictions to the contrary the changes in‘'top bats” are scarcely noticeable, bur the crowns are less bell-shaped than formerly, and the brims are rather more narrow. The straw hat is more of a favorite than ever before in England this season. The straws are finer and have higher crowns and less brims. The ribbons are very nar- row. In color they are either black or blue, except for the young college men. No well-groomed man now ever appears East without his opera or crush hat when in evening dress. Very useful suits are being made of tweeds and shepherd plaid and of Scotch goods. Many men are ordering suits of blue flannel. Men of about 5 feet 10 inches in height should not wear a sack coat longer than thirty-two inches. C. C. NEW TO-DAY. :)ibiiii)i)i”.ii’i.’ » | # Special Saving Sale E | T L L LT ey oy e e BEARAEERREESEAR G SR ERE Four splendid bargains in Fine Thin China, handsomely decorated. Pretty Individual Buiter Plates, regularly 75 cents, at 40 cents per | ® dozen; 75-cent Berry or Salad Bowls | 'g at 45 cents; Sugar Bowls and Cream i » Pitchers at 30 and 40 cents per pair; | 5. Teapots, Sugars and Creamers at 75 @ | & ber set. & THAT BIG CHINA STORE— & 4 Quarter of a Black Below Shreve'’s. & WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & 00, ¥ 528 and 530 Market St., | $ 27 and 29 Sutter St., i s BELOW MONTGOMERY. | BERAREEEAAAAEEEREEEEE v | & & | & ¥ BRCEEEEEEE S | have emigrated to America.’” stances, renders each and all water-proof, | dustproof, greaseproof, inkproof and mi»" crobe-proof. You may, if you so will, | upset a pot of ink over your new red mo- | rocco-covered chairs, or down the dado of | your dainty drawing-room and, provided, | of course, that they are ‘‘Pegamoid,” all | you have to do is to wash theoffending | stain with a damp sponge, when every vestige of the mark will be quickly and easily removed, and all will appear new and clean without so much as a smudge to disfizure your now spotless possession. | Pegamoid is being used extensively in | Europe, and if it is indeed so wonderful | ‘we may expect it before long to reach us, | for fancy having spring cleaning robbed of | all its historic horrors. | Women in Europe who have to stand | severe social strains are now using a few | drops of Eau des Carmes upon a lump of | sugar. Itis said to produce most happy results. MARCELLA. Turn Down Collars for Men | | For ordinary purposes the all-around turn-down collar is the most fashionable. Single-breasted waistcoats have either very narrow lapels or no lapel atail; the double-breasted have lapels. I am re- lieved to hearthat‘‘Him’’ reports concern- ing waistcoats that “In such shops as one | i 22 Beary St., Near Kearny. The times denote the exclusive houses are the successful ones. EXCLUSIVELY BLACK FABRICS. Mohair Fancies, the Suit - $3.50 Mohair Sicilian Faneies, the Suit - - . $52% Mohair Noveltios, the Suit - $7.00 DUST-REPELLANT MATERIALS Crepon Noureteau - $1.25 per Yard Crepon Noureteau - $1.50 per Yard Purchasers of black should inspect the magnificent assortment we offer. R. T. KENNEDY COMPANY. may find on the Strand (the Sixth avenue of Lonno:, or ri“lh“ tl; npp:x Bm;::ny) @ .é;‘ = THe PHILADELPHIA J“ see these violent things in i = = gs‘tliz is quite another mngler u‘;’:; ul::; & ELELTROLYSI5 € costume of gentlemen is concerned. The smart shops are quiet. I have not seen the | exaggerated waistcoats, nor, again, the gaudy colors, which from accounts 1 had been led toexpect. I ppose they ‘Well, even if they have, the smart set will have but little to do with them, as the best dressed men are nothing if not con- servative, but receive the news with com- placency concerning our tailors, for the e authority declares: ‘‘One can justly iticize Englishmen’s clothes—I still con- tend that the New York tailor is more R scars left; mol H7OMaRKET ST, LORNERTAYLOR, % Oucre Maze) Niom 26 ! EMOVES SUPERFLUOUS HAIR BY ELEC- tricity at §1 & sitting; first sitting free; no tu, ‘Warts, etc,, also removd. ADWAY’S Purely vegetable, mild and reliable. artistic and that his work has a better PILLS, plete digestion and absqrption of the food, causa & mm{‘wuon of the Liver and renderthe Boweld Ratural in their operas Ci Withous griping