The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 5, 1896, Page 17

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JULY 5, 1896. WOULD BE EX- ceedingly interesting to begin at the begin- ning with this story and sketch the geo- logical history of our beautiful bay; still more attractive would be a picture of prehistoric days up- on this Western slope; but our limits confine us to the known and comparatively modern record. We will begin with a finished con- tinent and Lo the poor Indian in full ion. The waves of the Pacific are o the quiet haven which they n for themselves between the yurs of the coast range. Thegreat on the mountains have breasted of centuri time is the sixteenth century, won- 1 for adventure and discovery. The ned by Columbus was the uitima possessi rol s and popes. ica was thought to be only bordering the coast of Cathay, and every explorer sought eagerly for a channel tt h them, the rumored -five years elapsed after America was d d before Balboa stood ‘‘silent upon & peak in Da: and saw the hori- zonless Western sea. Seven years later Magellan sail rough the straits which hd after great perils the "vast calm ocean Pa Fourteen witer his conquest yrers to find the his New Spain. was commanded by an amed Ximenes, who sailed of California and landed on 1e lower peninsula, where murdered by Indians. He was the first white discoverer of r rnia. Later Cortez himself iand tried in vain to establish a the same point. In 1537 he sent n, headed by Francisco de ich sailed around the peninsula, ot quite reach our present boun- e. Itis in this captain’srecord name California first appea rom a popular romance of the day. 2, when Mendoza had taken the Jortez as Viceroy of Mexico, Juan abrillo, a Portuguese captain, ise still further along this own coast. He had but two little vessels and as thev sailed northward Cabriilo kept careful record of his discov- eries and experiences. On the 28th of September, 1542, they sailed into a harbor which he described as “famous” and samed “‘San Miguel.” It was our San Diego. A wild storm was blowing but the little vessels found safe anchorage, and Cabrillo carefully describes the timid and gentle natives who came out in their boats to greet the strangers and bid them welcome. All through the month of October Cabrillo crept northward, anchering at Santa Bar- bara and carefully exploring and naming the outlying islands. Here he met with an accident by which he broke his arm, and as it was tightly bandaged after the cruel fashion of that day, it became a source of infinite pain and trouble, but he pushed bravely on with his voyage. On November 14, buffeted by a fierce gale, they were driven along a coast which Ca- brillo aescribes as covered with pine trees. At dawn on the morning of the 16th of November, 1542, they drifted in to a large open bay which they named “Bahia de los the into the Gul o Pin ’ while the point of land to the S0 they called “*Cabo de Pinos.” It was Hor Bay. The weather continued rough and they returned to their old port at an island near Santa Barbara, where poor Cabrillo on January 3, 1543. With his dying he urged upon his successor to con- ie the exploration as soon as the would permit. A fine, sturdy the sailor he must have been in- His comrades named the island Rodrignez, as a memorial, and 1 bis body in its shifting sands. But 1d soon lost his name and of his grave there is no trace. When Cali- fornians are casting about for a fit subject for monumental honors they may weil re- member Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo. Fifty years went by and not a vessel’s keel stirred the waters of the bay. The pines looked down upon the dusky deni- zens of the forest in their childlike joys and sorrows, their feasts and their fam- ines. Herds of deer sped through the tangled wilderness. Great bears crept down from their mountain lairs and feasted on the leviathans of the deep which were occasionally cast up by the waves. The waters ebbed and flowed under the moon and only the light canoe glided across them. In June, 1 Captain Drake went sail- ing by in tempest-tossed ship, the his Golden Hind, searching for new lands and new treasures for good Queen Bess, but he totally overlooked our bay. $ In the fall ot 1603 another explorer, one Sebastian Viscaino, was fitted out by the Viceroy of Mexico. He had three ships, with 200 men and three Carmelite friars on board. One of these friars, Antonio de 1’ Ascension, was a faithful chronicler and map-maker. The Viceroy, like his prede- cessors, wished to gain fresh subjects for Spain, fresh converts for the church, good harbors for the Spanish galleons on their way to and from the Indies, and last but not least the much-sought-for Straits of Anian were still to be found. Viscaino sailed in the wake of poor Cabrilig, but must needs change the names which he had given to places. On the 14th of De- cember they found and named beautiful Carmel Bay, and on the 17th Viscaino’s fleet rounded Point Pinos and dropped anchor in the pine-fringed bay, which he named Monterey in honor of the Viscount de Monterey, Viceroy of Mex On the next day the church tent, which was always carried by these early missionaries, was pitched under a grand old oak at the entrance of a ravine where were springs of fresh water. The place 1s well known still, though the old oak perished long ago. It must forever be the California Plymouth Rock. Viscaino’s little company were in sore distress. Sixteen of the men had died on the voyage and all the crews were suffer- ing from scurvy. It was decided to send back one of the ships with the sick men, twenty-five of whom died before reaching Acapulco. Five days later Viscaino with the remaining ships proceeded on their northern trip, but they stayed long enough in Monterey Bay to hote with en- thusiasm its fine qualities as a harbor, while an expedition on shore revealed to them its fertile soil, abundant game, plen- tiful wood and water and beautiful scenery. Padre L’'Ascension was the first appreciative chronicler of Monterey Bay and to him Spain wasalso indebted for the first map of the coast approaching acecur- acy. Viscaino sailed north amid great hardships for many leagues and then re- turned to Mexico. He carried personally to Spain the story of his wonderful voyage. And now another long period of solitude befell our bay. Spain had many wars and imbroglios always on hand and the first ‘enthusiasm for exploration had abated. A bundred and sixty years went by. Bears still held our mountain passes and sea lions ruled the bay and made havoc with smaller fry in quite human fashion. Some aged Indian might remember a tale his grandfather had told him of a visit from white sons of the gods wio came in winged ships and having verformed strange ceremonies salled away into the sunset, but doubtless the new generation listened with in- credulity. During this whole period the lower pen- insula had been the scene of one heroic effort after another made by Jesuit mis- sionaries from Mexico to colonize the land and christianize the natives. It isa re- cord of sublime faith and heroism almost unparalleled in history. These soldiers of the cross gloried in tribulation and re- joiced in martyrdom. In Spain, however, the Jesuits had com- bined political intriguing with religious zeal, and King Carlos banished the order from his kingdom. This edict included Mexico, and the Jesuit missions in Lower California were turned over to the Franciscan monks, who had a large college at San Fernando, Mex- ico, with Padre Junipero Serra as presi- dent. In 1768 King Carlos, who naturally feared that England or Russia might for- get his prior claims on the whole western coast of America, sent orders to the Mexi- can Viceroy to again take possession of the old ports of San Diego and Monterey and renew efforts for colonization. The matter was put in the hands of Jose de Galvez, a trusted servantof the King. He was a man of energy and ability and ad- dressed himself to his task. He took counsel with Father Serra, who was as eager as himself for the undertaking, and together they organized a larze expedi- tion, consisting of soldiers, priests and Christian Indians from the Mexican mis- sions. They were provided with ail the need- ful things and were to proceed, half of them by land and half by sea, to their new fields of labor. Two vessels, the San Car- los and the San Antonio, were fitted out and loaded with provisions, grain and seeds, church materials, etc. Each vessel had its share of soldiers, mechanics, cooks, sailors and religious guides. The land expedition was headed by a brave soldier, Gaspar de Portala, with twenty-five soldiers, three muleteers and many Indians. Father Juan Crespiand Father Serra were of this party. To the carefully kept diary of the former all our California historians are greatly indebted, while Father Serra’s name is indissofubly linked with early California missions. He was feeble in health and lame almost to helplessness, but always cheerful, resolute and heroic. Nearly forty days they marched through desert and wilderness ere they reached San Diego Bay and saw the white sails of the San Car- los and San Antonio gleaming before them. Many of the Indians had de- serted the land expedition and many of the sailors had died from scurvy. They counted now but 126 men where 219 had started, but great was their joy over their rescue. On Sunday they celebrated a solemn festival, mass was said, a cross set up and formal possession taken of the land for the church and for Spain. So many of the men were sick that they decided to send them back by the San An- tonio, while the rest divided into two par- ties, one staying at San Diego for mis- sion work and one pushing north to Mon- terey. Portala took command of the Monterey expedition. After only five days of rest he started north witn Father Crespi and sixty-four soldiers, muleteers and Indians. They followed the coast line, hastening on through the pathiess wilderness, enduring much hardship and keeping careful notes of all they saw. They were charmed with the climate and pleased with the poor na- tives, who treated them with great friend- liness. Father Crespi baptized some of the Indian children, giving them sweet Chrisiian names. At Los Angeles they felt violent shocks of earthquake, but they were not intimidated. The moun- tains seemed to rise interminably, but they pushed on. They passed Monterey Bay without recognizing it, and worn and footsore reached San Francisco Bay,which they named for their patron saint, a name never changed. Exhausted, sick, and with scanty rations, they now decided to turn back. They reached Monterey the second time November 28, 1769, and stopping at Carmel Bay set up a cross and buried at its foot 8 brief report of their expedition as a guide to future explorers, should they never reach their friends at San Diego. But January 24, 1770, saw the little bands once more united. Sickness and trouble had abounded there, and the expected ships from Mexico containing supplies had not arrived. Two days were devoted to earnest prayer for succor, and lo! the res- cuing ships appeared. Early in the spring Portala again set out by land for Monterey with Father Crespi and twenty-five men, while Father Serra took all the provisions and re-enforce- ments which could be spared from San Diego and proceeded by vessel to the same port. On the 24th of May Portala, after a little over a month’s marching, reached his destination and found his cross hung with votive offerings from the poor natives, who recognized its religious character. As Portala and Crespi walked by the sea that lovely day in May their eyes were opened to see that this was indeed Vis- caino’s Bay of Monterey, and no one has ever since doubted its identity, A week later the San Antonio came safely to port with Padre Serra. The little company of soldiers and sailors made haste to assem- ble on the beach by the historic oak tree, and again solemn services of prayer and praise were held. The mission bells are hung on a tree, and peal forth joyously; the fathers, in full religious dress, chant “Veni Cre- ator’”; holy water is sprinkied npon the ground; an image of the Virgin is set up on a rude altar;, mass is said, and the ar- tillery and cannon thunder, while Portala runs up the Spanish flag. Monterey is once more taken for God and Spain! A feast followed, full of enjoyment for ali. The mission was named the San Carlos, in honor of the King of Spain. In a few days some rude huts were built, and one consecrated and decorated for a Ta Pob 4§ e |l i 4 Hl church. Portala appointed one of his men, Lieutenant Fages, comandante, and on the 9th of July setsail in the An- tonio for Mexico. Portala was Califor- nia’s first Governor, and, though his term of office was only a few months, his brave work as explorer and founder should give him a high place in remembrance. The news of the establisiment of two col- onies gave great joy in Spain and in Mexico. And now, left to- themselves, Father Berra and Father Crespi enthusiastically began their work. The poor savages— gentiles as the fathers always called them—were not hard to win. The friars were gentle and wise. Their plan was to allure, not to force, and a few gifts gener- ally brought about friendly relations. All mission history goes to prove that the Franciscan fathers were noble, pure, self-sacrificing men, and their treat- ment of the Indians fair and philan- thropic. They assumed a paternal atti- tude, encoursging and chiding, rewarding and punishing very like parents. Father Serra particularly was always winning. He loved his flock with tender fervor and joyfully devoted his life to their salvation. No hardships were too great, no journey too long or too hazard- ous for his loving zeal. His plan ‘'was to convert these ‘‘gentiles” and then organ- ize them into civilized communities. They soon decided to move the mission over to Carmel Bay, a more sheltered spot, and here a church was built, while the fort and its garrison, called the Presidio, was left at Monterey. The buildings at both places were inclosed by.a stockade con- sisting of posts firmly set in the ground and the buildings themselves had walls made in the same way and roofed with grass or tules supported by raiters. These were plastered with mud inside and out. The indian converts were persuaded to build similar huts near the mission and a group of these was called a rancheria. Fresh supplies with livestock of every kind arrived from Mexico and the whole mission schemedeveloped rapidly. With- in the stockade of the Presidio were bar- racks for the soldiers and a chapel for worship. The two establishments, mili- tary and religious, were kept distinct, each having its own rules. Cannon were mounted at the Presidio and everything possible done to give security to the colony, but they were piti- fully weak and fortunately no foe ever ap- peared on sea or shore. Fifteen miles square was given each mission in Califor- nia by the Spanish Government to be used for pasture, woodiand and farms. Thena- tives were enticed into the mission bounds by daily rations of food. The poor sav- age had too often felt the pangs of hunger to be able to resist this bribe. Plenty of boiled corn and a few simple lessons in theology made a “gentile” willing and prepared for baptism, and he took his place with the converts, but was never classed with the ‘‘gentes de razon” (reason- able men), as white men were termed. Soon the Indians became quite skillful in the arts of agriculture and stock-rais- ing. A little later they learned spinning, weaving and some simple manufactures. It was very different from their old wan- dering, free life, and it required some co- ercion to hold them to it, but patience conquered. If they escaped from thefold they were brought back like stray cattle. It was but a few years ere the converts were counted by thousands, the mission granaries were full to bursting, and the mission herds overren the whole country. But it was not all smooth sailing with the mission fathers. Besides the nat- ural troubles which arose from deal- ing with savages, there was quite as much difficulty in managing lawless sol- diers and interfering comandantes. Questions of authority between church and state constantly arose. Father Serra even made a journey to Mexico to try and have these vexed questions settled, but to the end there was always much friction. As years went by new missions were started. Father Serra delighted to set forth with a guard of soldiers, a few help- ers and some church supplies to found a new station. The process was always about the same. The cross was set up on a good site, the place consecrated, a little building commenced ana a good priest left in charge. Serra frequently visited these stations to advise and help, but always re- turned to his beloved San Carlos, where he lived to old/age and died in 1784 be- loved and lamented by all. The growth of pueblos began. Any one wishing to settle in California could have a small grant or Jease of land. Many sol- diers had families and retired from service R to settle on ranches. Emigrants and sol oon as these were filled with pothooks fore or since in Monterey. A time of diers not infrequently married Indian women and thns the duties and the cares of the fathers increased. Each pueblo or settlement had its Alcalde, or Governor, and matters civil and ecclesiastical gradu- ally adjusted themselves. It was only on rare occasions that a ship entered the bay. There was absolutely no commerce and the only communication with the outside world was tbrough the transports whic:: once or twice a year brought supplies from. Mexico and through the annual visit of a Spanish galleon on its return from the East Inaies. Couriers from Mexico came overland twice a year bringing and carry- ing letters and official communications. 1n September, 1786, two French frizates on an exploration for scientific ends came to the bay and had a most cordial recep- tion. The commander, La Perouse, wrote up the country, the mission and the natives, with careful scientific observa- tions. But isolated as California was great loy- aity to Spain was felt. They celebrated all the great events of that country as best they could when the news reached them, and several times made a liberal donation to the ever empty Spanish exchequer, Monterey ws athe seat of the little court. Governors were appointed from Mexico, and when one became tired or failed to please he was succeeded by another. The legend is often repeated that fifteen Gov- ernors of California lie buried in old Car- mel Mission. Life at the Presidio was gay, easy and in many ways attractive to the Spanish heart. There were usually about sixty men there, many of them with families. Pretty strict discipline was maintained both there and in the pueblo. Gambling and drinking were both held in check, and but few crimes are recorded in the mission period. A mission was successfully started at Santa Cruz in 1791, and a settlement named Branciforte for the Viceroy of Mex- ico. Thbe paternal Government helped them in every way asusual. It1snote- worthy that a flouring-mill, run by water- power, was built at Branciforte in 1796. Captain George Vancouver of England, with two ships, came into the bay in these days on his famous exploring tour around the world, and was most hospitably re- ceived. But after he was gone the loyal colon- ists bezan to suspect that the English were spying out their weakness, and when Vancouver returned they were decidedly cool, which led Vancouver to enter in his notebook that the people of New Albion, as he called California, according to Drake’s naming, were an inferior set of folks and would never improve till they had some commerce with other nations. In 1794 Don Diego Borica became Gov- ernor, and a stirring, cheerful good ruler he was. He wrote home charmine letfers full of the praises of Monterey. *‘itisthe most peaceful country in the world,”” he writes; “one can live better here than at any European court.”” The garrison was full of good soldiers, the mission with holy priests and gentle neophytes, accord- ing to Borica. Spaindecided to strengthen her California colonies, and Borica was just the man for the work. More soldiers and cannon were sent, and two vessels cruised up and down as a sort of coast guard. No foreign vessels were allowed to send men ashore except for wood and water. And now came the first Yankee trading vessel, the Otter, from Boston. They had papers from General George Washington and were well treated, but the captain, it is reported, secretly sent ashore some convicts who had boarded his vessel at some Mexican port. Borica was greatly displeased, but the convicts were set to work and did no harm. They may be an- cestors, for aught that appears, to some of our first families. It was in these prosperous times that the fine old partly stone church of Monte- rey was built. It has been greatly changed, but is on the old foundation. The pueblo of Monterey grew and im- proved and very cheerful life went on in its homes. Little children were very nu- merous, and in 1793 an order came from Spain for the establishment of & school in each pueblo, and Borica set himself vig- orously at the founding of schools. He found in his quest for teachers that only fourteen out of the fifty soldiers in the Presidio could read or write. Finally Jose Rodriguez, a soldier and carpenter, in 1795 started the first public school in Monterey. In theseschools Christian doc- trine was the first thing to be taugnt, then reading ana writing. The Government furnished paper for copy-books, and as IS4z 00000000, and hangers they were to be sent to Borica for inspection and afterward were econom- ically used for cartridges. 8o life went on. New industries were introduced. Woolen cloth was made and coarse pottery. Hides were tanned and leather made into shoes and saddles. Ot- ters were trapped for their skins and trad- ing vessels, Yankee and otherwise, began to creep in and, in spite of obstacles inter posed by the Government and the padres, to carry on a brisk exchange of commodi- ties. Tallow and hides were exported in great quantities. Bright-colored calicoes and other finery were eagerly paid for with valuable skins; the world could not be kept out. The pines of Monterey were also in demand for building purposes all up and down the coast and in Mexico. The friars came and went at San Carlos, Chief among them after Serra was Lasuen, president of all the missions. At the height of the mission period there were a thousand neophytes at San Carlos, and the possessions of the mission in grain, cattle and land were almost incredible—so good was the management and so fertile the country. Good Governor Borica wrote his opinion of the country on the occasion of the ad- vent of a little native son in his own fam- ily; “He isa Californian. Oh, a Califor- nian! Itis the best country in the world to live in long and well.” Amongother good regulations of Borica’s was an approximately good temperance law. A sergeant who kept brandy for sale was only allowed to sell two drinks in the morning and one in the evening to the same person. There were 400 residents in Monterey in Borica's day. His health at last failed and he started for Mexico, but died on the voyage in 1799. The years were rather uneventful till 1818, when there was a general uprising in South America and piratical craft were abundant on the Pacific. Much fear was felt at Monterey lest some of these cruisers should sweep down upen them and ravage the little settlement. Much preparation was made, but they knew they were literally helpless before heavily armed privateers. Vicente de Sola was Governor, and he was in great alarm when news came that two piratical vessels were fitting out in the Sandwich Islandsto attack the settlements. Wild excitement prevailed. The com- andante and Governor . decided to send women, children and movable goods to the interior station of Salinas, and it was well that this was done, for on the 20th of November, 1818, two vessels commanded by Bouchere, a Frenchman, long remem- bered as “‘the Pirate Boucher,” sailed into the bay and demanded the surrender of the town. There is a Spanish report of a blustering reply and a gallant defense, but it cannot be sustained, énd the probability is that Bouchere found spiked guns and a deserted town. He proceeded to ransack the buildings for booty and then set them on fire. On the morning of the 27th the marauders departed, leaving San Carlos Mission undisturbed. All the missions contributed to repair- ing the damage, and life soon went on as usual at Monterey. In 1822, when Mexico threw off the yoke of Spain, the Californians were hardly dis- turbed. Mexico had really been their ruler. Only the form of official oath was changed. In 1824, when Mexico became a republic, California became a territory with a *‘chief’”’ appointed by Mexico. And now the Mexican Government, always poor and in straits, began to look wistfully at the great possessions of the California missions. If they could only somehow be transferred to the state. They must be wsecularized,” and they were. It was the beginning of the end. A few years confiscated all the mission property. Colonists were sent by the shipload to set- tle upon the mission lands. The ship Natalia was bought to be used as a transport. It was the ship, said tra- dition, which carried the great Napoleon back to France from Eiba, and one day it anchored in Monterey Bay with a load of unwelcome emigrants. A fierce gale drove it upon the beach, where it soon went to pieces. Only three lives were lost, but the mission padres did not fail to see in its wreck a direct visitation of God. Its dis- mantled hulk, with the bare black masts reaching up through the waves, have pointed many a moral and adorned many atale of Monterey. The padres would not tolerate the as- sumptions of these poor colonists, and proceeded to destroy the mission stock to prevent its falling into their hands. Good beef and mutton were never so cheap be- anarchy set in. Each new Governor sent from Mexico was more distracted than hig predecessor. The missions fell intoruins; the neophytes went back into savagery. But immigrants now came from new directions; hunters and trappers from the northwest. Renegade sailors, retired soldiers and sea captains who had spied out the fatness of the land took possession of ranches to which by hook or by crook they obtained a title, married Spanish or Indian belles and became bona-fide settlers. Some of Monterey’s best citizens arrived in these days of misrule and confusion be« tween 1820 and 1840. Among these were David Spence, a canny Scotchman; James Stokes and James Watson, both Englishe mwen, as was also W. P. Hartnell, Thomas Larkin, long and well-known as United States Consul in Mon- terey, was an energetic Yankee arri- val of this period. He brought to Calis fornia the first Yankee wife, and their home in Monterey was u center of culture and kindness and fine hospitality for & quarter of a century. About 1825 David Donglass, a botanist, agent of the British Geographical Society, visited Monterey and made careful notes of 1ts flora. His nameislinked with many of our plants as their discoverer. A new native California party grew up and added to the political complications which we shall not try to follow. The Mexican flag always floated over Monterey, but sometimes one faction held sway, sometimes another. The ordinary citizen when he took his daily siesta could never have been much surprised to find a new Governor in power when he awoke, and & new and more grandicose pronunciamento plastered on the adobe walls of the pueblo, In 1840 a certain Governor Alvarado thought he discovered a deep plot for ine surrection among the foreign residents, and so had them all put in irons and shipped to San Blas. Perhaps he thought seasickness an antidote for treason! The Mexican Government, however, had no desire to fight England, France and America all at once, and sent them promptly bome. During this twenty-five years ot Mexican and native Californian rule tbis bay must have heard much strong language, but it is pleasant to re= cord there was no blooashed. In 1842 there were 15,000 people in Cali« fornia, 2000 of whom were Americans and saw that some day the United States would” claim California, but there were many English and Scotch settlers, who hoped to see the British flag overhead. Meanwhile all bided their time and joined more or less heartily in the gay life of the country. Everywhere there was plenty. Fleet horses and fat cattle roamed the hills, and though ranchers claimed and bsanded their own the horsethief - felt that his rights were as strong as any man’s, especially it he wera on the horse. The cowboy reigned supreme. Ranches extended illim= itably. The owner, Don this or Senor that, lived 1n a long, adobe house and was a native prince. He ate beef, tortillas, tomales and beans, made savory with peppers and garlic and olive oil. He gal« loped all day on his fleet bronco and danced all night in the merry fandango, while every Sunday and saint’s day there ‘was a bullfight, or a bear-baiting, or a horserace, most delightful to see. It was California’s age of romance. The missions fell into ruin, but the priest maintained a geutle sway, married the young folks, christened the babies, comforted the dying, buried the dead. In 1842 an American warship, the Cyane, sailed into the bay, commanded by Com- modore Jones. He knew that the United States was on the brink of war with Mex- ico and he also knew that an English ship of war lay at Callao, Peru, and might any hour approach California to take posses- sion. He thought he could not be too prompt, so he sent a boat ashore demand- ing the surrender of the country to the United States Government. Alvarado thought there was no way but to submit, so up went the stars and stripes, but only for a few hours. Thomas O. Larkin, the leading American citizen, acted as media- tor and counseled delay, so Commodore Jones took down the flag with apologies. It would be delightful to tell the story of that 7th of July, 1846, when Commo- dore Sloat of the United States frigate Sa- vannah, lying in our bay. at last decided that the hour had come for taking posses- sion, and once more the starry flag went up over California; but will it not be told and retold at the coming celebration of the fiftieth anniversary of that glorious day ? Mary H. Freno.