The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 28, 1896, Page 29

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JUNE 28, 1896. 29 A Pieturesque Costumne of White Silk and Coat of Black Modish Gowns Worn by Wornen On and Off the Stage All of the fashionable world still left to the mercy of the winds and dust as- sembled last Monday to welcome John | I the and his gifted company. As usual, actresses were well and stylishly gowned, for they know by experience that | a San Francisco audience is well able to criticize every toilette from bonnet to shoes. In the first act Maud Adams in an even- ing frock of black looked touchingly sweet and fragile. Beautiful embroidery adorned the bod and produced the effect of large sapphires strewn over the black chiffon. The loose front most admirably suited the wearer’s slender figure and the dark velvet irt b » perfection. The next time We see this little actress v very handsome cape of rich Her hat is a large black K ostrich plumes and here and there a crimson rose. When she re- moved her hat and cape a dainty zown was revealed of a pinkish poplin. The bodice was covered with pink mousseline de soie; fold after fold of it -producea excellent re- sults, and the sleeves were models of the coming style. They were of the poplin, which fitted the arm closely, and over it was the mousseline. This was rucked all the way up the arm until the shoulder was reached and there the mousseline ex- nded into a small puff. But most chic of all was the last gown in which she ap- eared ready for a dinner party. The irt was of a heavy creamy-white satin; over the back widths was a flight of silvery butterflies. The bodice was of orange satin with moderate sleeves. the carried a great bunch of white sweetpeas, About Maud Adams I especially noted how excellent were her sleeves and gloves, and her hair was most becomingly dressed. Her skirts were so well cut and hung that, although of nine purplish ve e with bl | { | [ | or ten gores, they gave her the necessary | air of slenderness now so fashionable. Miss Annie I is a stylish woman, but she was always at her best in full evening dress, ana in the “Squire of Dames” her dinner gown was highly | satisfactory, being of a rieh pale-green | silk, which was covered with quaint, artistic figures in an odd bluish-green shade. The bodice was- of a plain green silk completely covered with mousseline de soie beautifully embroidered in silver. The mousseline was put on very full; the sleeves were medium. Her fan, in white and silver, was much admired, as it seemed to have been especially designed to suit tie toilette. In her gown of a soft pinkish cast she is not half so stylish, but with it she wears a stunning bit of a bonnet of grass gieen straw over which pink roses nod in artistic confusion. What a well-grown fresh-looking woman Ethel Barrymore is. She wore in the first act & sweet gown which might be used as & model for a girl’s summer even- ing dress. The skirt was of white organdie; four ruffles composed it, on each of which were three narrow rows of creamy Valenciennes lace. The bodice was most gracefully draped and the foundation for the gown was of white taffeta. A few rich grimson roses here and there gave a wel- come touch in color. In the next scene her toilette of coarse brown canvas was excellent. The skirt was full and absolutely unadorned, being simply bound with black, and this touch of black appeared in a quaint sort of little jacket, which was of the canvas bound with black and stitched with an outline figure in white. It was lined with a shot greenish blue silk and was worn over a blouse waist of wonderfully fine organdie, which has many lines of fine Valenciennes insertion. As the curtain falls Ethel is robed in a dinner gown with a skirt of old | rose pink satin and a bodice of creamy white chiffon and lace, about which isin- troduced a touch of pistache green. In one scere the effect of the Western girl’s costume is somewhatspoiled by her gloves of long black suede beingdecidedly the worse for wear, but then her hats were quite lovely; not one was overloaded and all were becoming. Gladys Wallis was a winsome maiden mn her really lovely and simple frocks of or- gandy. One was covered with pink blos- soms on a white ground. Soft falls of lace and ribbons added to its charms, and it was made in a manner suitable for a girl of fifteen, and from 1t many maidens might learn a lesson, as most of them will not rest content until arrayed in a dress quite suitable for their sisters, who may be ten years their seniors. Gladys is a picture in her white gown with Irish point, under the insertions and edgings of which were introduced blue satin ribbons, and baby ribbons were abundant on the dear little waist. So you see I had reason to enjoy the bright play and the costumes as well. Among the gowns in the audience 1 observed that, as has been usual for the past few seasons, there was an epidemic of light bodices and black silk or satin skirts. Of course the skirts you know all about, and many of them have done lonz and faithful serviee, but some of the bodices were exceptionally good. One of heavy white corded silk bad a brocade design over it of grape leaves and a deep pointed collar of black velvet edged with a steel and crystal passe- menterie. The sleeves had been diminished but slightly in dimensions. An artistic crea- tion was of white silk crepe over white silk. The crepe was covered with pale and dark violets and looked as though the pattern might have been drawn by one of the sprites in a ‘‘Midsummer Night's Dream.” Insertions and real lace made it still more lovely. Soft folds of white completed 1t at the neck, and the sleeves were the very latest. The handsomest bonnet in the house rested on the beautiful and abundant snow-white hair of a very handsome matron. It Joudly announced its Parisian origin, so do not be surprised when I tell you that 1 simply cannot describe it, for 1o say that it seemed to be composed of a substance like jet, but which was changed when the gaslight fell on it from a brown to green and orange does not convey an: very definite ideas, but it was fascinatingly chic; to that ] can testify. Several young girls in the bouse were noticeably pretty 1n light frocks; one of silk, a white ground covered with viue corn flowers and a lace yeke, and a full ruff of real lace, and an- other was covered with apple blossoms and bad a ruche of imitation blossoms, which gave it a Frenchy touch. But I must give you the results of my very latest information from foreign parts, and to begin you must know Louis Beize bodices will be worn no longer. Chaatiliy has settled that, for the secon meeting was largely attended by the elegantes of Paris, and the most perfectly dressed women appeared in either very short jackets in flowered silks or elabo- rately trimmed taffetas, and mousseline de soie capes opening over lace, or fancy bodices encircled with golden or jeweled waistbands. Many waistbands worn were made of a heavy galon, embroidered in the Russian style with large cabochons, or with compact masses of golden beads, dividing the belt into compartments. Some were composed of bronze and steel spangles, sewn upon an elastic foundation so inzeniously fastened as to remind one of the scales ot a tish, and almost equally brilliant and beautiful. Others were in leather covered with a sort of mother-of- pearl tissue, with blue or pinky tints. Cheap imitations of these are abominable and not to be tolerated. The simple belts of the best white or cream kid, with a queer head as a fastening, are in good taste, We are all interested in cravats and the ‘‘Cravate Guizot is the latest, It bas been so called as it resembles slightly the old-fashioned stock worn by Monsieur Guizot. Itisreally too warm for summer, and is composed of either black or white moire, showing at the top & narrow line of turned over linen collar. It is scarf-like in form, passed from front to back and then brought forward and knotted ina sailor knot with long ends. We are in- structed to wear it with either ecruor colored silk batiste blouses. Blouses ure now to be had of great elegance and per- fectly cut. In price they are extraordi- narily extravagant. The fichu bravely holds its own, and the latest is of flowered taffeta. The large flowered silk paletot-sec is built quite short with a deep flounce of plisse mous- seline de soie, usually black, at the bottom. The sleeves are enormously wide, so as to slip easily over those belonging to the bodice, and the main trimmings are loops and bows of black satin ribbon, generously disposed back and frant. The taffeta fichus have black and white gauze plisses on their edges very often, showing charm- ing, plestrons, which should harmonize with the colors of the silk. Wide satin belts are frequently worn, of course black is preferred, which enfold the back and front ends of the fichu. The fichu will not | have the necessary air of style withouta | belt as it gives the pretty waist line. Black satin corselets of ribbon are seen on colored nfuslins, orgendies and indeed on every description of light transparent ma- terials, and also upon the favorite white taffetas with the porcelaine-biue ara- besques and the crepe de Chine dresses, when the entire costume is of one color. The ten-gored skirt most worn in the evening on cersmonious occasions meas- ures exactly six and a half yardsround; | for simple skirts nine gores are all-suffi- cient. For those who have dressmaking done at home I strongly advise using pat- terns that are not only correct and re- liable, but those which are easily followed, | because accompanied by a full-size model, | | just cover the top of the arm. neatly put together. The very latest evening dresses have no sleeves, but our low-cut bodices would in- deed have a very unfinished appearance were this remark to be taken literally; but no sleeves in this case means that there is neither a long nor a short sleeve, nor in fact any kind of sleeve of the ma- terial of the frock, either silk or satin; only a billowy mass of tulle finishes the bodice at the shoulder. Layers upon layers of unhemmed tulle, like a ballet- dancer’s skirt, start from the armhole and can be of any color harmonizing with the toilet, but white, pink or Nile green are usually emploved. The effect is ravish- ing, as nothing is so softening and becom- ing to the complexion as tulle, and the neck of such a bodice is usually finished with soft folds of the tulle. Truly, how quickly we lay aside our most cherished modes for the ‘‘latest,”” which we fall in love with promptly and declare to be the most beautiful ever devised. At the present moment Frenchwomen are raving over crepe de Chine, and writes a correspondent: Every good gown I meet displays this most charming fobric, the palest shade of pavement gray and a Tuscan tone being unquestionably the most favored hues, while the trimming is mostly embroidered lawn, traced with a little gold thread, and the beit may. be formed of glace silk, and belts are details to which the Frenchwoman is much de- voted. She prefers these in corselet form folded round her waist, extending almost to her bust, where some soft muslin or chiffon will overhang them. Black silk and Chine silk make these corseletsas a rule, anc the bodice usually boasts a small frilled basque bensath them. Enthusiastic Wheelwornen. There are few more enthusiastic wheel- women than Miss Helen Gould and her handsome sister-in-1aw, Mrs. Edwin Gould. Miss Gould ie living at her home in Irving- ton. Mr, and Mrs. Edwin Gould are at Beachwood, their beautiful summer place at Dobbs Ferry. Both young women are learning to ride bicycles and each is delighted with the sport. Mrs. Edwin Gould, although very voung, 1s a charming hostess. When I called at Beachwood one day last week Miss Helen Gould was there also. Both were talking bicycles with the eager interest of novices and with as much spirit and arimation as many women would display in discussing a new bonnet. ““We have just been arguing about the proper adjustment of handie bars,” said Mrs. Gould, smilingly; ‘it's a very im- portant matter, I assure you,’’ When entering the house I noticed a tandem and five or six single bicycles. “You have quite a stock of bicycles,” I observed. “Yes, indeed,” said Mrs. Gould, “We keep several extra machines for our friends. When we have callers—and most of our friends ride—we take them outon the road for a social spin instead of sitting on the veranda or, under the trees, as we used to do, “Mr. Gould and Iride the tandem, or rther we shall ride it as soon as Mr. Gould isable. He was thrown from his horse a short time ago, you knew, and his knee was injured quite badly. He resigned from his regiment just because of the injury. When his knee is well again he will give up riding horses and take to the tandem. I am very glad, too, for I think horseback ridin- dangerous.” *“And it is not as sociable, either, as a tandem bicycle,”” said Miss Helen Gould. “That’s true,” replied Mrs. Gould. “One cannot imagine how much pleasure and sociability there is on a tandem bicycle until one has tried it. And when one’s hus- band 18 on the tandem it is a great relief to know that he is not in danger of being hurt by trying to jump horses over high fences.” This talle | Q V& MEN'S VIVID WAISTCOATS ARE LOSING FAVOR In London the gant de suede is not so popular as the kid glove, and yellow gloves are much worn. The vivid waistcoat is not in favor among well-dressed men in England. Many waistcoats button very high—about ten. Between ten and twelve buttons are frequently seen. Care should be taken not to wear a shirt that too violently contrasts with one’s waistcoat. Even a tie should be selected carefully. For instance I saw a man to- day who wore a pink shirt with hair lines of white running through it and his white tie had horizontal lines of dark blue. The effect produced was common, although the shirt was excellent. Ido wonder why Mr. Drew has such a fancy for the silk braid down the seam of his evening trousers. He wore trousers disfigured in the same way last season. His frock coats are well cut, but his riding coat and breeches are not beyond criticism; however his boots and pumps, his waistcoats, collars and ties are. I give an illustration of the style of breeches worn by him in “The Squire of Dames.” In the same plays Mr. Baker and Mr. Byron also wore good frock coats. About the latest frocks it may be said: ‘‘Thereisa smartness which suggests skirts, and yet when analyzed the garment is seen to be perfectly square cut. The soft shirtsin colors are worn a great deal in the coun- try, and the effort to put frills onthe bosoms of them has not met with much success.’’ Concerning trousers it is well to remem- per that ‘‘fancy trousers which are worn with black frock coats are made of cash- mere. The patterns are in stripes, in dark grays and blues. I have seen a num- ber of black- and white plaids and a few checks, but the stripe remains in favor. The trousers are cut about nineteen and a half in the knee, and eighteen bottom. They are wide, but have no spring. Ditto trousers of cheviots and tweeds and shep- herd’s plaids to be worn with coat of same color and material for morning suits are cut perhaps a little wider. “Knickers are made very full and baggy at the knee, and without the leather ex- tensions with which they were formerly urggnged.’” Tousers are quite full, generally speak- ing, but aot baggy and have no percepti- ble spring. A man asks an Eastern journal what shirts he should wear to business, so as to be in good form; he is answered correctly and fully: Colored percales, Oxford or zephyr will be most in vogue. The style will be white collars, all-around turn- down. The most popular patterns are in stripes of darker blue, pink, brown, buff or lavender on a lighter ground; stripes running up and down. Cuffs are of same maierial as shirts. White figures on col- ored grounds and colored figures on white grounds «re also in vogue. The bosoms are efther stiff linen or else unstarched. Two shirt buttons and not three. Russet shoes are out of date, excepting for the depths of the woods and the coun- try. Then they should be laced, not but- toned. So much green has been introduced into almost all mixtures for summer suits that |Fancy Trousers Worn With Black Frock Coats Are Made of Cashmere With Stripes in Grays and Blues the critical man now avoids it when giving an order for a new suit, knowing that it is becoming common. | Some men certainly do not know how to dress for golf, so it is interesting to note Vogue’s remarks concerning the game and | appropriate togs forit. Itsays: “Golfisnot a game of ease. Most golfers find them- selves in a dripping perspiration after they have played a long course, and therr suits are adapted to this condition. In very hot weather the most approved suit is thin, gray Russian duck, which is very light, | and through which air circulates freely. | The shirt is plain white, with no tie, the shirt at the throat being unbuttoned and the sleeves rolled up to the elbows. Many golfers wear no caps at all, preferring to go barebeaded; and when they do wear caps they should be of the same material as the knickers and very light. The shoes have very thick soles, with spikes or hobnails and gaiters. Scotch stockings are almost invariably used, and should be carried apove the knee, the knickers fastening above the knee. A year or two ago, when golf first began to be played generally in Ameriea, knickers were worn with box-cloth exten- sions and the stockings turned down below the knee at the extensions. This, how- ever, is hot and uncomfortable and vir- tually obsolete to-day. In- cold weather sweaters are worn, and in very cold weather both sweaters and a coat.” At the present moment in Paris there is a great demand for marrow bones, as an eminent physician has declared that mar- row on toast wonderfully aids digestion; as aresult all men are demanding it at their clubs. Doubtless it will shortly be called for here. The comic papers joke about the good democratic Scotch sport of golfing and represent the golfer as an animated cos- tume, says the New York World. Shrewd tailors have taken advantage of the golf craze to create emormous opportunities for weak-minded rich young men to make themselves absurd, and such young men rarely overlook such opportunities, But these foolish youths are not golf players, and they cannot be used as an argument that golf is a foolish amusement or that it demands the innumerable elubs and clothes and other expensive things that they love to indulge in. Rather look at Taylor, the open cham- pion of England, and admit that it is much fairer as well as much safer to judge the game by him than by the Newport youth. Taylor often plays in ordinary street clothes, His name is to golfers what Pim's name means to tennis players, or Bob Cook’s to amateur oarsmen. If any player had a right to indulge in frills it should be he. As describea by a writer in the Strand magazine, he not only wears his ordinary clothes, but he usually carries his own clubs, dispensing with the caddy which the toy golfer glories in. This is satisfactory proof that golf has something to it besides clothes and cad- dies if that fact were not likely to be sus- pected by sensible people anyway. It has spread with wonderful rapidity amongst the rich'since its introduction in America a few years ago and it is inevitable thatit 1s to become one of the most popular games for everybody as soon as the stigma of being a clothes-horse amusement wears off. What makes it a good game? The fact that it beats you oftener than you beat it. There is hardly any such thing as making a perfect shot. In baseball a player catches a ball or he *‘muffs” it, but in golf there is hardly a stroke a man makes that he might not have made it better. All this m that it has the essential quali- fications of a sport just as billiards bas. It beats one and keeps the interest aroused. C. C. This very picturesque frock here repro- duced has a skirt of exceptionally rich, soft white silk, with a bodice ot the same veiled ina fichu of white chiffon. The sacque-backed Eton coat is of black satin, and the folded sash of crimson silk. The black bonnet has bows of the crimson. This toilette was worn at a large charity bazar, and it will doubtless suggest in various combinations some valuable ideas. The jaunty Eton jacket model is being made up for numberless slender women in various fabrics. The cut must be faultless to insure an air of style. Black mousseline de soie, exquisitely painted by hand, is in great vogue; also made over colored or glace silk. One I am delighted with is covered with grace- ful bunches of wistaria and is made over a glace silk which shades and gleams like a great opal. The vest has innumerable ruffles of black mousseline de soie, edged with real lace of a creamy hue. Shaded sequins give the necessary touch. This is a costly garment and one which will be chic until the end of summer. All longsleevesin Paris have a short puff and are tucked to the waist. The only ex- ception to this rule is in the coat and skirt combination; in it the sleeves are slightly full and drooping. Evening bod- ices have long poicts in front. No fashion- able woman is now seen wearing white gloves in the daytime, lemon-colored kids being in demand, as well as all soft shades in suede kid. The tulle bow is a thing of the past. To sum up the fashions of France of the hour. Asa fabric, crepe de Chine is the idol of the moment; the most popular color is pale gray; the next moment, I venture to assert, it will be red; while, as a combination of colors, blue and violet bold sway. Skirts are full, sleeves are small, basques are short, belts are ubiqui- tous, and even the most captious of critics could be found to say a good word for the modes of Paris as they are to-day, when realized by the best artists and worn by the woman of tact. Of course, that there are other folks who live to caricature Fashion’s best laws is an unalterable fact of existence. Itis a sorry one, but inevit- ablein a free country, where sumptunary legislation is a dead letter. Truly fetching is a tea gown owned by a youthful bride. Itis composed of a bro- cade having a pearl ground, over which are scattered pale mauve lilacs and green leaves. Beneath this is worn an empire dress entirely formed of mauve accordion- pleated silk hangiug from a yoke of trans- parent lace. Two frills of this accordion- kilted silk make the sleeves. Bands of in- of the gown on either side. It is mounted on mauve silk eiaborately frilled inside the hem with mauve and green glace. This gown is not difficult to make, as the accordion-kilted siik may be purchased by the yard, and its great width on a woman of medinm height would be found suffi- cient to hang from the lace yoke which just reaches the bust. A few yards of bro- cade will make the back, and the sleeves are easily mada if the accordion frills are used with the narrow uncrushable silk now to be had. Itisa fact worth noting that accordion pleating never looks so well on anything as on white, either chiffon or silk, Of all the dark colors this season, blue, dark navy, is most worn, and truly attrac- tive morning gowns are made of this in canvas, trimmed with narrow white braid. basque, worn with a very narrow white kid belt or narrow folds of white ribbon. The ribbon is most effective. Glace silk continues to enjoy a great vogue, especially in green and white. Alpaca will soon, I predict, be on the a medium shade of gray. Itisbraided prettily with white and bhas a front of white muslin over white silk. With it is country, a hat of black chip with a grace- ful roll of mousseline de soie and a few black quills. Very simple you may think, but it assuredly is charming. I wonder when women will learn the value of a little soft whiteness near the face. such an effect that words cannot do it jus- tice. Try it if you have not done so al- ready. It is most desirable for the women who bave too much color, especially those who have a purpiish cast. Positively an she will wear soft folds if she is stout, and frills if slender, of some dainty fine white stuff. Dark or dingy tones all emphasize an unbecoming amount of color, For coat and shirt suits white cam- bric fronts, exquisitely tucked and hemstitched, are less expensive than others, but we must supply ourseives with at least six of them. The slight girl looks well with a hem- stitched frill down the front and the white linen collars which turns over each side at the top seem to have been especially de- signed for her. In Vienna white pique riading habits with white sailor hatsare an admired hov- elty. The habits are of soft but very thick pique; the skirt is short, and both jacket and waistcoat have strapped seams. The collar of the waistcoat is high and quite B NEW TO-DAY. ‘WhoO can form the greatest number of words 00\ Given $25-= Away IN Contest- GOLD) "y enough to make fifteen or more words, we feel sure, and if vou do, you will receive a good reward. Do 1ot use any letier more times than it appears in the word. Here is an example of the way to work it out: Con, cost, COAt, on. test, 10, eat, &c. The publishers of Woman's World and Jenness- ailler Monthly will pay $10 in g0id to the person abie to make th- largest list of words from the letters in the word CONTESTANTS; 86 for the second largest: $5 for the third; 3 for t-e fourth, and $1 to the fifih, and a lady’s bandsome A weri- can movement watch for each or the seven next largest lists. 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Men- ton this paper. sertion, set transparently, adorn the fronts | Frequently the bodice has a short-tabbed | bargain counter, although it has notyet | been given up, as it so perfectly sheds the | dust, and a stylish frock of this fabric is of | worn, by one of the prettiest girls in the | It has | ugly woman may become picturesque if | military in cut. The sleeves are small. White gloves and white patent-leather boots gave the finishing touches. And speaking of Austria reminds me that a charming Countess living in Vienna gave last month a ““May dinner.”” Most of our fair hostesses will be interested in the de- scription, which I quote: “The table, which was octagon in shape, was adorned with a veritable profusion of apple and peach blossoms tastefully dis- posed in low jardinieres of silver filagree work and knotted here and there with broad bows of pink and silver ribbon. Other baskets, also of silver filagree, con- tained pyramids of luscious-looking strawberries, whicn peeped forth from among their own glossy, heraldic leaves, | while candelabra of exquisitely chiseled silver upheld pink candles, the soft light of which was still more tempered by rose- | hued shades of fluffy pinked-out silk | gauze. The dinner service was of pink Sevres china of almost priceless value; the crystal was Bohemian and also pink in hue, and each plate was surfounded by a slender garland of pink daisies. The boutonnieres for the men and the corsage bouquets for the women, deposited beside each place, were composed of white and pink heather and were made up in the shape of diminutive horseshoes.”” MARCELLA. NEW TO-DAY. | :’?9)’5)??’?9577?”?’ z | i Special Saving Sale § IMITATION CUT GLASS, Almost as bright and clear as the genu- ine,and the patterns just as pretty. 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