The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 21, 1896, Page 29

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JUNE 21, 1896. 29 WHAT SOME WOMEN DO Mm e. Jeanne Hading’s gowns, worn in | reproduction of F ce d’Aurec in , are causing much favorable criti- | 50 Laferriere is to be complimented | on his creatio as he designed all the | artistic costumes, 1 Pari cism, s, of a rich turquoise blue velvet, red with white and yeilow silk In front is an Alencon lace scarf, \\’.\h red poppies, ana at the back is a tult of black popy In the ballroom scene | Hadin a pistache-green satin made o la Louis XIIL. The tablier is embroid- | ered With pearls, a cosaque of coral velvet embroi, ered with gold and silver. Simple but very charming is another toilet of | white India muslin with applications of t de Bruges, which opens over an un- t trimmed with A bunch of cornflower is grace- d at the waist in frontand a 1 the back. ‘ dresses are fascinatingly hues and tones prevail s of taste. One pretty | D s lately wore a light-yellow satin, roidered with seed pearls and tulle | the ®w bodice. Tufts of pink roses | iing touch. Another Paris- | 1 belle wore at a large ball a confection moire, run with silver threads. t of ner bodice was completely ed with diamonds. At the same a costume much ed was of pink was trimmed with silver, all the being outlined with pearls. An- g adorned with guilder roses. zowns are admired when well we should never attempt to a style unless one of the best of dertake it, as in all'respects olutely perfect or it will be a ailure. It isalong time since I properly made Princess dress, be in evidencg. One unounces, very posi- ost all are being Parisian corres ent ly speaking, the skirts owever, the bodices are be- | skirts embroidery, | I descriptions and shapes are usually | a material different from the| bodices. For day wear the sleeves fit le effect of fullness at | eties of materials are | position of the jackets and | 1e new-flowered satins of the /I period are most fashionable. uffed silks also figure, as do also | weight woolen fabrics and liberty | atins. i Numerous questions are bemng asked cerning appropriate gowns for golfing, > to settle t point it would be as well read ar answer from headquarters: “The points of a go suit are very much like those of any tailor-made gown, mplicity and neatness of finish. Any | startling effect is bad form and unsports- | manl to be striven for are [ banging sk These may be of any material hich is heavy eno: ng well— ed, homespun, linen, cc n duck or Russian du Most golf- | have linen or crash for warm weather | cloth for cooler times. The skirt should clear the ankles, as, in playing when the Il is hes and brambles, a st inconvenient and un: kles either leggings aced golf boots. same stuff as the g red. Most members of s with white gh rou, groun et usu- | the skirt, and may be cut- double-breasted as one prefers. | Ik jacket is not now considered | The jacket is taken off while | ng, and there may be any number of | v shirts of silk, linen or cotton, with i | a matche: N¢ tc and ties, arranged to go with zown and give it variety.’ | re told that every week thereisa | tion, or a decided change in Paris | st every style, and of course at the moment the most the greatest can do is to predict the modes that | catest vogue this season, as we | to have a surprise, so many correspond- | ate, in the fall and winter gowns. | 1l there will, in all likelihood, be | 1e radical change, as every three years | z undergoes a transformation, so ne for the exit of our present ves, In fact fashion’s lead- | £ upon | 0 as to ascertain what will | on, but for the active, busy | anot afford a carriage, the | of our skirts is perfectly They are always cutting out | prese resent, ¢ lat be glad once more to wear the well- | t, correctly hung skirt, not measuring | ence more than four or, at the yards. F my own part three d please me best. il blouses can be repro- | ¢ a dainty fabric most satis- The first I admired was of grass d simply with a collar of resse applique. Made over a ingecup yellow, thisis a becom- a but if made so as to be | worn over s of different colors the results are extremely pretty. The second 15 a creation from an excellent house, and is composed of a beautiful quality of black mousseline de sole most artistically trimmed with ecru duchesse applique. e to man linin bottom, and, well—most of us |~ “WEAR AND MOST A True Picture of Her Imperial -Highness, the Empress of All the Russias, as She Appeared in Her Goronation Robe at Moscow. by the Dowager Empress for her corona- Numerous illustrations ana descriptions ' tion. The circle consists of 2000 brilliants have been published of the Czari coro- nation robe, ete., so I am glad to give an absolutely correct reproduction of it and the description I quote: “The Empress’ train was of rich velvet, bordered with ermine. The dress was white satin, em- broidered in an exquisite design. The pearl and diamond ornaments were of un- paralieled beauty. The crown is notone from the treasury, but has been made ex- pressly for her. During nine months two St. Petersburg jewelers have been working at it. In sbape it is nearly like that worn alone,” It was made without the slightest ornamentation, and she wore not a single of the first water, and the top partis|jewel and not a ribbon even fluttered to formed by 2000 other similar stones. |spoil the effect. At her throat were These are all invisibly mounted in silver, | fastened two clusters of orange blossoms, and so delicate is the workmanship that | and from a small coronet of these blossoms the whole crown weighs less than an or- | fell her veil, which is priceless, a glorious dinary tiara. piece of lace. This charming bride started All Paris is raving over the absolutely | on her wedding tour weuring a long cloak simple but superb wedding-dress of the | of palest gray silk cloth, which completely beautiful Princess Marguerite. The long- | covered her from head to foot. A tiny trained gown was of satin “cuir,” or | bonnet of velvet that was one shade | leather satin, so called on account of its | darker than the cloak rested on her fair I thick, rich texture, for it did really ‘‘stand ! head. | necked, plump woman. WOMEN WOULD LIKE JO WEAR. | edged the scarf, which passed at the sides basque. latest fashion and closely fitted the arm, Although puffed all the way up at the waist, there was a ruff of Valenciennes lace. The soft neckband was made of changeable silk. The very latest shirt is of fine white linen set into broad tucks down the front with hemstitchings; it has a turndown collar and turndown cuffs, Others pos- sessing many attractive features are of the sheerest French batiste, every seaum hav- ing a narrow beading and true-lover's knots down the front are hand embroid- ered, the collar and cuffs are of real Val- enciennes, most comfortable for the short- However, they are the most expensive shirts made. The novelties among less expensive kinds are | of colored batiste in yellow. pink, blue or mauve, with narrow strappings of white at the seams and down the sleeves. Great favorites are those of grass lawn, with numberless tucks and frills of lace down the front. With some of these shirts are worn neckties of muslin having their lit- tle ends tucked and edged with lace. Plaid ties are also in vogue. Bandana handkerchief blouses are in great demand, as the bright colors wash perfectly and are generally becoming. Four handkerchiefs only are required. Ribbons in close set loops frequently form the basque to blouse, and tight-fitting bodices set into the waistband, which is pointed in front. The lace, mousseline de soie and chiffon ruffs are becoming positively grotesque in size. I always feel sorry when a pretty girl covers her lovely throat with one of them in the evening, but then, to be sure, I am equally glad when a painfully slen- der woman uses this article of apparel to cover a personal defect. Many ruches are being made out of white silk veiling in- stead of chiffon or mousseline. For the adornment of trains a new style has been discovered. Kiltingsof tulle have been arranged round and round like an old-fashioned bouquet. In the center of the tulle appeared ribbons and flowers. Only last year diamonds began to be ex- tensively used on ball dresses. Now skirts having every seam traced with diamonds are frequently seen and corselet bodices are covered with them. Above them is usually seen a chemisette of rare old lace. These bright little stones bave taken the place of sequins in a great measure, although sometimes they are used in com- bination. Jewels now are to be used in such profusion that the makers of arti- ficial gems are flourishing greatly, and so perfect are many of the imitations that some of the wealthiest women are using them in preference to their rare stones. As a result this fad will soon be a thing of the past among smart women, as when imitations are introduced Dame Fashion shrugs her shoulders in disgust and her followers do likewise, so wise matrons and maidens do not invest in any tawdry tinery, for you will have many opportuni- ties to spend your doilars in purchasing rarely good pieces of silks and other fab- rics during the summer sales, which will do excellent service later on. However, I do not intend to lecture on this subject, as some women will always purchase well and wisely, and others will insist on col- lecting a lot of odds and ends that can never by any chance.be utilized with any idea of economy. For instance, we have all heard of the shopper who goes out and discovers always just exactly the right shade of vel- vet or whatever is needed to make an old costume a great success, while her sister will bring home yards of an expensive ma- terial which will combine with nothing she wears, and at length she has to leave itin her dressmaker's hands to match. All learn by experience something about purchasing wisely, but for my partI think one is naturally a good or bad shopper. And what do you suppose is the latest 1diosyncrasy of the day? The red hat! It must be simply dreadful according to my ideas, but it has not yet reacted our shores; however, it is coming. One is de- scribed as being of the brightest cerise straw and another of the darkest crimson. The trimmings are either crimson roses, ehading into pink; bunches of cherries tied with cerise-colored ribbons, or black feathers in combination with red tulle rushes. This fad will be of short duration, as one quickly wearies of so pronounced a color. The deep crimson hat, however, trimmed with black tulle and black ostrich tips is not so bad for a decided brunette. Many gowns continue to be made hay- ing skirts and sleeves alike, the bodice, which ends at the waist line, being 1n marked contrast. All skirts are plain and flat on the hips, moderate godets behind, quite round, and they show a tendency to become shorter. MARCELLA. of the buttons and extended round the | The sleeves were cut in the | IN LONDON MEN'S FASHIONS ARE GONSERVATIVE. of ‘acloth known as “Venetian.’” Thes have very broad backs and are cut very loose. A broad band extends down the center of the back. They are not lined and have but one pocket, whereas the usual covert coat has three. The black cape overcoat is as much worr in summer as in winter over evening dress, the only difference being in the weight of the cloth. A black vicuna frock coat, worn with a fancy or black waistcoat and cashmere trousers, is fashionable and useful for numerous occasions. Many are wearing, frock coats of gray mixed material with trousers to match and double-breasted fancy waistcoats. Frock coats should be built with very square shoulders. They are double-breasted and have peaked lapels with roll silk faced to the buttonholes. Lounge Suits Have Two Pairs of Trousers — Knickerbockers for Gountry—Brown the Rage. “Him” has taken a run over to Eng-| land, and, as usual, writes to Vogue his Many men include in their wardrobes latest observations. Concerning the styles | a blue flannel suit, which is assuredly very for men he sagely remarks: | useful. For a sack suit tweed or shepherd “I find, contrary to expectation, that in | plaid gives good satisfaction. London the fashions are most conserva- No one ever goes on a journey in a silk tive both as to cut and as to colors. The ‘ hat; the very idea is absurd, comfort and gaudy waistcoat has gone to America. l appropriateness being theroughly studizd The fawn is really the only one worn | nowadays. by well-dressed men. It is double-| The smartest men carry only very simp+= breasted and is perfectly plain. The|wood walking-sticks without any orne green is also disappearing from the | mentation of any descrintion whatsoever. tweed lounge suit. Brown is decidedly New York critics declare that John the favorite color. The lounze coat is, | Drew has an excellent tailor this season, as usual, single-breasted, loose in the back, | and is dressing better than ever. the waistcoat to go with a lounge also| Ready-made duck trousers are never single-breasted and in the country men | satisfactory, for on being washed they are wearing knickers almost altogether. | shrink and pull entirely of shape, so in the Indeed my tailor tells me the lounge suits | end it is best to have them made of the are made with two pairs of trousers, one | heaviest linen fabric by a good tailor, as ordinary long trousers for the city and the | trousers must be correctly handled, other- other knickers for the country. White | wise any air of style is impossiole. flannels are being utilized for golf and A handsome present for a man 1s a com- = R | plete outlit for his writing desk in tortoise- white flannel knickers with loose coat Shall ripmn et in e IN e C. C NEW TO-DAY. PERVRRRERRRRERPRERRR Y Special Saving Sale Haviland ° PP S S —— With Beautiful Hand- ainted ecora- tions. Tnese prices— for Mon- day only —are one- third less than reg- ular val- ues. Taa Cups and Saucers, 25c; Coffee Cups and Sauc- ers, 35c; Aft r-dinner Coffee, 20c; Dessert Plates, 20c; Large Plates, 25c. See them in the window. THAT BIG CHINA STORE— A Quarter of a Block: Below Shrove's. WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & 00, 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY AAEASASSASAAAASSAEE S AAERBARARA AR AR SRR AR ER R R AR AR SRR R AR R AR RN » 22 Geary §t., Near Kearny. A and waistcoat are indeed verv smart. dash of red in the way of a tie improves | this costume wonderfully, the golf stock We have received during the week many remarkable lines of Wool and Silk Goods, which we place on sale Remarkably Low in Price ! being used extensively. I have seen in Lordon many men wearing morning coats of black diagonal. There also seems to be some slight change in evening suits, The | tails are again rounded, not square, and | very long.” As usual, gray frock coats will be seen | at the Ascot and Derby. Covert coats are | shorter this season as they just reach the | knees. They may be in shades of gray, | fawn or drab. The seams are wide and | of course, the coat is loose-fitting, and | many fashionable tailors face them with | the covert cioth instead of with silk. They | have fly fronts and are single-breasted. | In London some of these coatsare made | 1 Case All-Wool Faneies, 25¢ Yard 1 Case Mobair Fancies, $3.50 Suit 1 Case Fine AIL-Wool Serge, 50¢ Yd 1 Case 42-Inch Crepon, 59¢ a Yard 1 Case 44-Inch Mohair Suiting e e 75¢ Yard 1 Case 45-Inch Mohair Fancies $1.00 Yard the number of deals you intend to play before moving. Then, before you begin to play, have all east and west players adysnce to a higher number table—1 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 4 and so on. Not touching the cards, of course, advance after each round. When you are ready to start in to play announce that the north player at each table, after you have played the deals that are placed on each table, will move the trays in the following order: Have your schedule ready to call off, and make each north player note it down, so no mistake can occur. The great Brooklyn whist congress will ) sciences. have passed into history when our next and character are revealed at whist! whist column appears in print. Every | day brings joyful tidings of something | that will happen to make this meeting | long to be remembered. W. H. Whitfeld, the greatest living mathematician on the game, is coming with *‘Cavendish.”’ Robert H. Weems, chairman of the Then, too, how a man’s nature This I endeavored to call attention to in my “Wuist Players and Their Ways,”’ in the appendix to the fourth edition of my ““Art of Practical Whist.”” But even now, 1in 1896, 1 find men doing and saying those very things to which I called attention years ago. With kindest regards, I re- | main, very sincerely yours, | A. W. DrAYSOX. “Pembridge,” the author of *“Whist, or will have some whist news from him. On his return from the congress we will give to our readers, fresh from the whist tables, illustrated deals as played by the masters of the game in battling for the world’s championship. One of the editorial articles in Whist for May, under the headline, **A Signifi- cant Matter,”” says: “The Union League Club of Philadelphia, which has always declared against cnrd‘immes on the general ground that they tend to foster the spirit of gambling, has at length decided to open its doors to the game of whist.” This is not a great event in itself to chronicle, but it has a deep significance when all the circumstances surrounding this matter are considered, and reflects deserved credit on the American Whist League for encompassing the game of whist in an atmosphere purely moral, thus exerting a healthful influence upon Flandres, while a stomacher of great bril- liants and pink pearls will finish off this | truly imperial toilette. | He Gained His Wish. ? He held her hand. “I should love to see | more of you!” he cried. ! Bhe withdrew her fingers. “Not here! | not here!” she murmured, “but—"" | He started. | “To-night!” She had vanished. As in a dream he read the card she had slinped into his hand. It wasa ticket for the Cluster & Peel living-picture series. | —————— Keep headed in the right direction, even if you do nothing but creep. The above goods are all far below the price usually asked for similar qualities. SEE OUR mcf_gm BROCADES, R. T. KENNEDY COMPANY. FREODS CORSET ROUSE SPECIAL SALE OF Corded Corset Waists and Shoulder Braces for Ladies, Misses and Children. s “ . | tournament, received the following letter The mousseline is drawn over a glace silk. Bumblepuppy,” one of the most brilliant Such a blouse would te a great addition to any one’s wardrobe, as on many occa- sions it will prove to be very useful and eqnally ornamental. The third blouse for ing wear has sleeves of which I do not e. However, many such are still orn, and the rest of the gnrmenl'is _in; good style. Rieh silk is employed in its composition, and it is adorned with lace. The sleeve 1s said to be most unique, the fullness being spread on either side of the shoulder like buge butterfly wings, afan 9r lace falling from the center. The effect is | quite novel, and to many figures the | sleeves are becoming. Every fashionable woman this season will possess floral bodices and sleeves. R sleeves are the latest fad. For a Jong time the petals of the rose and small flowers have been massed together to 1c hes, sleeves, etc., but 1ar more ev beautif t floral creations of | roses and lown buds which have reached M York from Paris direct. About other smart bodices there is in- variably a bit of black or white satin, and I observe a tendency to scallop the edges of short basques. Indeed, scallops appear on many gowns. Chic in the extreme was a basque bodice worn at a Paris race lately. It closed with three pearl buttons in front and then opened over a green mousseline de soie plasiron shirred with the narrowest of yellow Valenciennes. “A scarf drapery en fichu,without ends, in old Fold and green taffeta draped the bodicearound the plastron,”” White plisse from General A. W. Drayson: | | writers on the game in his day, who died SournsEa, May 25,1896, | o | | a few weeks ago at his home near London, in trying tc impress on the minds of some of his club friends the necessity of study, Mr. R. H., Weems—My DEAr Sir: Many §81d5. SThstedticationy ol &y bk pliy | sad ayer thanks for yours of the 14th. I am much | is veculiar. How he becomes a whist- sbburton road. | rivilege, an gratified to find thatsystemsof play which | player nobody knows. He never learns I adopted twenty-five yearsago, and which | his™ alphabet,” or the catechism of the fell flatin England except among personal | game, or anything that he ought to do. friends, have in America been lately ap- e appears full grown, mushroom-like. preciated. It seems to me thatin England, g: éi‘i:emsb:r‘:e&"i‘;‘; fl:eogi‘;":i:&?;fl;nl:: vhen any novelty is brought forward, peo- 8 o 'hl; a]uk “Who hZ“ bmuvgtlzhis Iorwur’:l"” done, and somebody else blowing him up ke R e e Ay ‘| fordoing something else, and he is blown up 1f the *‘who'’ is not an admitted authority | at the end of each deal. This phase of being the novelty is ignored. In America iiis | blown up is varied by grumbling, some- asked, “What is the novelty?’ and itis | times aloud, sometimes *'sotto voce,” so examined, and if found to be sound is | that the ;’a}?,';,;":’;’i,fi,;“,‘;"f.,‘;‘;,i?;:‘;‘;‘:fi i ick-in-1 - & i) Slopled. [t 2 TmEnaMTs Bucen e | reareTomnen: Truly his Is a bappy life 2 Sk _ Some men grumble on principle, because I can assure you it is a very great disap- | it is a national they avail pointment to me to feel that in spite of all | themselves of the nglisuman’s'birlhrigh!.. your kind suggestions I dare not venture | Some do it because they believe that if ona trip to Brooklyn. Rough service in | they grumble enou:hit will bring them South Africa and India bas taken a great | l;:l}‘ ;gfi‘: Efifl:;fii{;};’hean;p?;::t&::i{_ deal out of me; then, having passed three- | frignds will Teol for their ill-fortune, score years and ten, I am obliged tdbe | which, by-the-by, whist-players never do. careful. Any disturbance of my usual | Some grumble to annoy their friends, and quiet habits sets me wrong. we are bound to say these succeed.” I know what a welcome I should receive S A and bow at tome I should feel with Amer- | QUEtRIES ANShWERED- : jcan whist-players. 1 trust you wil ex- n answer to a query how to conduct a press my feelings at the congress. 1t | Whist mat.;:l;x on the Howell-Mitchell sys- Woula really be worth a trip to America | tem, e will say (this system is for teams to see Miss Kate Wheelock, whom I had | of four): the honor of meeting here and whose in- | First—Number or name each team. tellectual intensity wlus delightful, "l':‘:v;%?ech team (of four) take seats at the Asa means of cultivating the percep- < long maintained that whist was a better | {ables must be odd. means than many of the so-called | Placeon each table (including the dummy) You make out your schedule in this way: If you have 5,7, 9, 11 or 13 teams or tables, or whatever the number may be, take the miadle numgiariiru and the trays from that table go to table 1. We give you a schedule for eleven tables. | The middle number is 6, goestol, 7to2, 8 t03,9t04,10t05,11t06, 1t07, 2108, 3 to 9,4t010 and 5 to 11. After each and every round the trays are moved in this order. 1f a dummy table is used there are four play- ers each time that sit out (including the first change), and the one in charge of the play Should see that the trays are moved from the dummy table. Great care should be taken to prevent any comparison of scores or keeping a private score or talking with co-partners during the changes. A match score and a trick score is kept of each team. A match won counts one, and a tie match—marked on the score-sheet with a zero (0)—counts & half on the match score. The trick score will consist of the net number of tricks made by each team. ‘‘Netnumber’” ‘means the tricks you win over and above those you lose, if any. ‘WHISTLETS. N. P. Trist, in a letter to the whist editor of THE CALL, says: ‘*As a general rule second player should, with less than four in suit, cover a strengthening honor led.” He further says: “Igenerally lead fourth best with ace four small regardless of strength in trumps, This might be termed a defensive play—guarding your hand against the possibility of one of the adver- saries holding the other high cards of the suits, thereby giving his partner one or more discards. With strength in trumps Iam leading much more frequently than formerly fourth-best, even Wwith strong cards along with the ace.” The whist editor of TRE CALL is now in Brooklyn. Inour columns next week we aevotees of the game. The Union League Club has denied in- fluential requests that exception be made 8o far as regards the game of whist, but when it was %omted out to the committee of that club that none of the league clubs played for stakes and that their influence was wholly against it, the privilgge of 100 dozen Perfecf Fitting Drab Misses’ Corsets, regular price $1, will be closed out at ...T6c —BICYCLE CORSETS.— DR. GRAY’S BACK SUP PORTING SHOULDER BRACE THE ENGLISH MILITARY BRACE. NEW TO-DAY. “LET HER USE Lola Montez playing whist in the club was readily | - a piaite reme :i: % — e -2 Gold-Lined Belts. 12 she wishes to keep off her face B g a There is a really new idea in white kid FREGK LE 22 e o g belts, but one in which but few will in- y = : sz g_ & ° dulge. it consists of a pale blue enamel, w8 .;: 88 artistically applied, but lined with gold. “ N uR" s 1 g8 3 From St. Petersburg a correspondent T 3 |&¢ é a 23z sends to an Eastern periodical an interest- TAN vEsg E ing description ‘of a gown which must be . [ b el f of rare beauty—well worthy to be preserved This advice was given by a lady fl S o forever on canvas. Fea. WhOKnaw whet ehe wassslking (o 12 AN T = about. and was a deserved tributy s ) = One of the gowns ordered by the Czarina | to this wondertal Creme. 7bc jar at my parlors, | © & BRACE )\ / 8 Sent postpaid. GUARANTEED TREATMENTS This week for wrinkles, pimples, coarse pores, muddy and sallow complexions. TRIAL Ladies out of city sending this ad. with 10 cents in to be worn at one of the festivitiez in con- nection with the coronation feasts is of changeable moire velvet in evanescent tones of pale willow green, rose-petal pink and ivory. The long train is embroidered with silver and crystal flepr de lis, at- CAUTION — Having no agencles or branch stores, our Corsets can be purchased only at our establishment. Mail orders recelve prompt attention. Tllustrated Catalogue mailed free. MAKE NO MISTAKE IN OUR ADDRESS M. FREUD & SON, tached to one another by intricate stamps, will recerve a bookof | 74 4o l;filngu and true-lover's ].‘yx'm“ done BOX— instructions and a bax of | 742744 Market St. and 10-12 Grant Ave, in pale gold, on which singlei L OLA MONTEZ CREME strings of pearls detach themselves. All around the train a coquille of magnificent | A1d & Box of Face Powder Free. antique point de Flandres is fastened and v | ELELTROLYSIS G draped by ctosers of pulspinkand e MRS, NETTIE HARRISON, 1170 MankeT 5, The low-cut cor- CORNERTAYLOR are of pale pink ced with silver, able velvet us ered in point de lilies, pold-stamened. sage and the pettico moire-antique silk, g paneled with the chan in the train and smot! 40 and 42 Geary St., San Franciseo, Cal. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR REMOVED BY ELECTRIC NEEDLE. (Overre Maze) floom 28 anovm SUPERFLUOUS HAIR BY ELEC- tricity at $1 a sitting; first sitting free; no scars left; moles, warts, efc., also removed,