The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 3, 1896, Page 30

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SmAY, MAY 3, 1896. T the Presidio hop were many of our very prettiest girls, and as usnal they thoroughly enjoyed €évery moment of the fime. One of the most delightful luucheons of the season was given during the week at the hostess’ new home. Now there are rumors that there is to be a very large and swell reception before we all leave for the summer, and house parties will be more numerous than ever before this season. The young people had a very pretty tea on Tuesday. .I hope our bench show may be a success. ' In Baltimore great interest is manifested in these shows. T am glad to see that Miss Newcomb, on the occasion of her marriage to Assistant Attorney-General Whitney, had the good sense to make a departure from convention- al mode in the arrangement of her wedding veil of point lace. As a result, it was beau- tiful and most becoming,.and says one of the guests: “It was arranged in a style suggestive’ of some of the old European | and among the posies protrude colored | Many are the brides who make | tabs; or they may appear over the top of | perfect guys of themselves by the clumsy, | the ruffies. Some women look decidedl i One th\r best without any neckbands. 1| bouse worn by a friend of | slightly low and outlined with embroidery ! of lace. piotures.” hideous arrangement of their veils. of the mest successiully draped veils have ‘ever seen was mine, so I asked the fair wearer about it, and.she éxplained that several days before | the wedding she had had her hairdresser experinre was del: btfully becoming. oo bride of “weddings that " ‘the selected ~ as 8 [LATESY FRSL S ] t with the veil; as a result, it | 27eat measure. | we to tie bows at the back, so Paris says— X N 6O and treatment of our necks, no longer are | they are to appear underour chins. How- ever, this decree has not been received with enthusiasm, even by thosz who have long, slender throats. Perhaps the reason is that such bows are difficult to arrange, but a broad ribbon edged with good but very narrow lace will, i properly handled, be very fetching, Ruches, huge affairs of chiffon, tulle, net or lace, are being persisted in, despite the fact that they are so generally disfig- uning; indeed, it seems to be the idea to bave cur necks rival in circumference onr waists. The result is neither beantiful nor graceful. Ruffles of flowers are seen Their dresses be cut should a ways Tulle has taken the place of mousseline | e soie for ruches around the throat in a It is used in ail shades Thisis agood | 2nd colors, the black mousseline de soie idea and worth remembering, and apropos | Tuche being decidedly old-fashioned. have always supposed | Plain or spotted white tulle is principally Y her | used. A great bow of white tulle softens | maids: her sisters, her dearest friends or | the hardest face 2nd makes ordinary cousins. times, for, says a gentlewoman who is thoroughly au fait and worldly wise: *‘In | selecting ‘bridesmaids 't is not beauty that counts sb much as style and carriage. In particular you waat girls who walk well. Theslow march down the aisle is the best test of gait I know. * * * Ttshould be a glide—tiien the slowness is stately. The bride herself is helped by her long train, her drooping head, and the leaning on her father's arm before and her husband’s after the ceremony. A bridesmaid has but her own grace to depend on. The girl who.walks.well, whose bead is well set. on | her shoulders, and whose hair arranges well, makes a gocd appearance, even if she lacks: extraordinary .beauty.” Well, these hints are valuable if, as I say, worldly. I.do wish all our girls walked and held themselves properly, for ever the prettiest | lose so miich by a careless, ungainly way | of throwing themselves around, and it should be impressed on buds the fact that once out .they will be severely criticized. Their schooldays over, Madam Grundy is ever on-the outlook and will be merciless | in her remarks, so the'wise maiden fur- nishes her with no food for remark or | gossp. | Mx{’ny dresses for the coronation have been ‘aesigned and made .in Paris. The trains .are the first consideration. One was 'made of Lyons velvet. It is rounded at the bottom; four yards in | length and of a rarely beautiful ‘shade of pink. All along the'edge of this train is & drapery of black tulle, which, at regular intervals, forms a bow in the center; in the center of each is a small bunch of black roses. At the lower corners are two large bunches.of black feathers. This train is lined with-pink satin and a ruche of the same assisted in supporting the train. The skirt which will be worn with this is of white duchesse satin, quaintly em- broidered-in aluminum spangles, mixed | with cabochons of paste diamonds. These take the ‘form of arabesques. The low bodice is of piuk velvet, and has a plastron of white satin bordered like the skirt; very small: puffs. of slashed velvet and satin form the sleeves, which are in the Gabri- elle:d’Estree sty Pink tulle and rose leaves,. powdered with diamonds, form a ruche-around the neck, and on the left shoulder is a bunch of black ostrich fedthers. Sp ‘great is to be the splendor of gowns which wifl’ be seen shortly in St. Peters- burg’ that all fashion papers will have ac- <ounts ot’gorgeous robes, and this great event will-have much to do with setting | the fashions for another vear. All good | . descriptions of gowns from noted houses abound in valuable snggestions for those wl‘lo can read between the iines. of. vert d"ean brocade striped with silver, a style of the Louis XIII period and also ‘Russian. The round train was bordered with white feathers powdered with diamond | dust, and_a large panache of feathers at | the corner; the lining was white satin, and a -ruche went round underneath like the ‘one described above. The white satin was richly embroidered with an arabesque ‘pattern carried out with silyer, seed pearls and’ paste; most brilliant in effect; from | “the bust to the foot of the skirt wasa | narrow band with very large buttons of real diamonds. The bodice of green bro- ‘cade was slightly pointed, and tie white | " satin front embroidered like the skirt, the -green brocade open with small revers, edged "with white feather trimming, and | thus continuing the trimming of the train _round the shoulders; on the leit side a large white panache of feathers. The . brocade sleeves were the Russian “shape, open on the arm, and falling straight half-way down the skirt, showing | .the bare arm; this sleeve is mounted on a -fiat . band -placed on the shoulder. The -’third ‘seemed still handsomer; it was .white silk damas, with large golden flow- | | -ers, arranged in an elegant light design; -the train-was bordered with gold-colored feathers; and lined with yeliow satin and ruches. - The skirt is white satin richly | embroidered with gold spangles and paste cabochons, falling like a shower from the . hips fo thé foot of skirt. The low bodice, pointed Lois XV, wasembroidered like the i &kirt. -The sleeves were a puff of brocade, | ~irom which fell the long open Russian sleeve' of ‘white tulle, embroidered with gold and cabochons. The last two trains were about four yards and a half long. | We'cannot give too much attention to | the hecoming arrangement of our necks, for no matter how perfect a dress if the collar, or what is substituted for it, is not perfect“uhe whole effect is lost, and no matter what stvle may be proclaimed de rigueur by fashion the wise woman studies her individual outlines, making fashion | subservient to becomingness. Most women | can wear the turn-down white linen collar, which is now correct for morning wear. They can be obtained in various widths | fixed on to straight bands, which makes them easy to fasten, and all the newest of the plain.silk blouses have turn-down linen cufis. Such blouses are made on ex- actly the same principle as the colored | lmen shirt, fastening down the center ot the front with studs or buttons, and they look remarkably well with these linen ad- ditions. A black tie usually fastens the collar at the neck. The silk generally used in the composition of these bodices is handkérchief silk, either bordered or cbvered with a patieru. . One described as very chic was bright red und had a broad conventional border in black and white. A slim woman was the wearer, and with the addition of a linen tiirndown collar and cuffs to match and a black necktie she was delightfully stylis ». Oriental tones frequently pre- dominate in such bodices and are very Suceessful . which is more than can be said of India silks, of which one guickly wearies. However. with a biack alpaca coat and skirt plaip shirts are advocated by fashionable votaries, and reseda green and violet are favorite colors, But to re- turn to m.y subject, the proper adornment However, I find I am behind the | peo: s | ightful effect on the complexion, and ofi | their fronts entirely covered with lace, | ple look almost pretty, as it has a de- | chine, bengaline moire (a decided novelty} and many mixtures of silk and wool elaces. Mohair dresses are being trimmed with lace and embroidery on the bodice. Shirt waists hold their own so success- fully that novelties are befng eagerly sought in this department. A very stylish waist will shortly be worn by one of the prettiest girls here. a fine batiste, canary yellow in color, trimmed with a fine black embroidery. It has a detachable collar, and any one who has once worn this style will decline in foture to wear any other. The same maiden has a shirt also of turguoise blue batiste; narrow black laces edge its frills and tucks. These smart shirts look ex- ceedingly well when worn with a coat and skirt of black face cloth. - A fashionable matron in this City has a shirt of oriental pique which has both standup and turndown collars, and a creamy-tinted batiste one with a front leat, tucks and collar and cuffs of pale lue. This is very dainty, but none are so chic or quite such novelties as those of the finest French muslin with exquisitely em- broidered bands and fine Jinen collar and cuffs. In Paris even tbese cost nearly $3. Some fetching toilets will shortly be seen composed of chamoise cloth and linen. The skirts are absolutely plain, only the bodices affording the dressmaker SN 2. G e < FR, A SPRING an opportunity of displaying some origin- COSTUME. course when veils are worn they match | the tulle ruche or cravat. I Grebe is going to be a favorite trimming | | ere long, as it is most becoming, so next | winter we will find it in great demand. One of the loveliest fichus designed for along time is of a silk gauze sprayed with daffodils. It has a knife-pleated ruffle surrounding it and balls of daffodils finish the long ends. | Aimost all bodices in light fabrics have | sometimes np;;earing above a broad em- pire band of black satin. For young giris many bodices are made to lace up the back. For the summer Doucet will dress his patronesses according to accepted models of the eighteenth century. However, he does not intend to confine bimself to the French styles of that era, as many of his most exqnisite modes recall the gowns worn by the English beauties who reigned | at this period, and were painted by Gainsborough and Reynolds. He will use great quantities of lace and the most | fashionable silks employed by this artist | are of faded hues, as for the moment he { delights in pale mauve, soft yellow, gray and ~vhite. From this establishment the | skirts are ali flat and plain in front, and on the hips; at the back are godet pleats, and the bodices are full, soft and in- definite; however, the waists composed‘ of light fabrics sharply outline the waist. His tailor gowns are close-fitting; sleeves | for all gowns are moderate and most of | the necks are finished witn ruifs, cravats | or ruches, composed of tulle, gauze or | lace, or of a combination of lace and gauze or lace and tulle. Doucet is using immense quantities of taffetas, moires and shining mohairs, and his favorite trimmings are lace, and the most beauti- ful and fantastic buttons of all sizes, shapes and substances. aquin is equnll(’determimd that the styles of Louis XVI should remain in vogue, but he also shows a liking of the modes which existed between 1820 and 1840. However, these were not pretty nor geuverall beqomlnf. so his customers pre- ter his Louis XVI ideas. Skirts seen at this establishment have scarcelv varied at all, being plain and close-fitting over the hips for the daytime, but fuller for the evening. He has diminished the size of all of the sleeves recently made. In Paris the materials most in demand are shot taffetas, flowered silks, crepe de ality. The collars are made of a wide plain or chine ribbon passed round the throat, and from each side extend two pointed wings of lace finished off with a tiny irill of Valenciennes. These are some- times wired with a thread-like wire so as to make them stay in position. A confection of diagonal mohair, in the new shade called “Cinderella,” is worthy of admiration. as silvery light glints to and fro among the folds of lie ample skirt. It has a Lonie Quinze jacket, with large revers of white poult de soie, opening over a waisteoat of this same silk, which is encrusted with rows of very narrow Valenciennes. These rows are sewn next to one another and the waist is but- toned with turquoise buttons, mounted in gold, having round them pink enamel. A dark blue canvas dress, having a nar- row front of blue and white silk, is a sen- sible costume. The foundation should be distinet from the canvas and must be of a good silk—shot silk is the proper kind to use. A vestof ecru, not figured, is more generally becoming. Itshould be almost covered with gathered tucks. An Easter bride will be quite lovely in a Paris gown of fine twill cloth of palest fawn. It has a beautiful vest and wrinkled sleeves in olive brocade, patterned with an amber-green satin stripe and covered with pink rosebuds and their leaves. Cascades of soft filmy Limerick lace falls between the cloth and brocade. Small tabs over- lap the vestand are finished with enam- eled buttons, having a green ground of which is.a tiny but perfect rosebud. I have had depicted an unusually hand- some toilette, composed entirely of black and white sitk. The zouave jacket effect 1s carried out in black velvet, and the vest, cravat, evaulets and sleeve rnifs are of fine lace. The zouave is outlined in ore-inch- wide white ribbon, daintily embroidered. The arrangement of creamy lace over the shoulders is especially ge B The early upring costume is a reproduc- tion from a French model, and consists of “‘a close-fitting jacket bodice in plum- colored veivet, extending at the back as a shawl-ghl?ed basque, enhanced with gold and spang!ed embroidery; waistcoat with turned-down collar in biscuit-colored c'oth outlined with a braiding pattern in two shades; fan-shaped jabot in cream-pleated lace; skirt in Peking peau-de-soie, crossed down the front tablier breadth with robin of plum velvet; Directoire hat in j net, trimmed with shot ribbon and cl!xsm-s It is of of cream ostrich tips.”” This design is es- PBC:‘;IU good for the matron of 30 and up- ward. You would all enjoy secing a dre ZOWn worn by a very youthful mother. Itisof the palest blue cashmere, with a very large collar, cut into points of white silk, striped with lace insertion and edged With a lace frill. The neck is cut slightly V, the large collar folding over the figure and fastening at one side just beiow the waist, with a Parisian diamond button; the gown is gathered in at the waist and the ‘sleeves “are of the monk order. The lining is of white silk, and with it is worn an under-petticoat of white accor- dion silk. An extravagani but Jovely garment. I}umeyous are the morning gowns made a I'Empire, with a lace yoke and a long, wide sash tied under the arms ina_bow; in the front fine cashmere 1 pale tints is very generally used for such purpose. The sleeves have high puffs, otherwise they fit snugly; sometimes they fall over the hanas. The sash, if it does not match tue gown, should be black, but I like it to match, but, of course, one can have a belt in the front beneath the arm or passed round the waist at the back through the side seams to the front. It snould be re- membered that in the union the becoming- ness of colors must be carefully studied. Pink in delicate tones suits most blonds and demi-blonds, but pale blue crimson is usually best for the real brunettes. That the bicycle and appropriate cos- tumes to wear when on it are keenly in- teresting topics cannot be doubted, so the success of “The Gay Parisienne’’ was as- sured before its production in London, When it became noised abroad that fetch- m%bxcyclem and climbing costumes were to be worn. TkLe costume for the wheel is only fit for the stage, so I omit a descrip- tion, as none of us would care to appear in knickerbockers of pure surah shot with navy blue. They are accordion pleated, however. The mountaineering costumes are better, being made with short skirts of fsncy tweed cfiacked with bluish gray, which allow a view now and then of suede- colored gaiters. The waistcoats are belted with leather beneath foresi-green coats, and the costume is completed with a green Tyrolean hat. Riding-habits should never be made with bouffant sleeves; indeed, no first- class tailor would think of making them, and now only an inferior seamstress or a third-rate habit-maker would cut suci sleeves. But, of course, we do occasionally see absurdities. i Speaking of shirt waists reminds me that stocks may te made of the same ma- terial as the waist, “‘or of white cheviot with black satin tie or of the regulation black satin stocks and tie under a tiny linen or cheviot turned-over edge. A de- cided novelty is the stock of heavily corded white silk, with tie of black satin crossing bigh in a point at the back and narrowing to the usual width in the bow.” Collars and cuffs are made in a dozen dif- ferent styles by the smartest shirtmakers, sg_no one fashion can be said to be “the thing.” Cbic results are being produced by the use of lace beadings. They are applied with fireat success to ruchings, plastrons and black veils. On black backgrounds are used white and yellow beading and on white appear black ones. Tulle veils are in great demand, those of white or creamy white being most becoming to freshen young faces or to those who still® retain youthful coloring, but persons who rouge are candidly advised to avoid them, as 1 have observed they have a faculty of drawing attention to such artificial touches in an oddly emphatic way. In New York tLe swellest calling gowns | have short basque bodices of velvet. They | are seen in browns, grays, a few shades of blue and green, etc.; but for elaborate affairs white velyet is seen most artistic- aily embroidered in gold or silver and jewels. One can imagine the delightful results, but such styles are only of interest to those who have their own carriages; | for others who dress well I recommend the | beautiful face cloths, in exquisite light shades. But perhaps one of the best pur- chases that can be made is one of the beautiful new poplins, but no second-rate woman must touch either of these fabrics. They require the hand of an artist. Use always cheaper goods for the cheap dress- maker to experiment with. Any number of fashionable girls are having made skirts of white pique with which will be round bodices of pique, which can be had in the most delicate of shades of blue, rose pink and buff. The, usually are worn with a wide sash of bluci or white sutin ribbon. Some prefer alpaca skirts instead of pique, but the latter have this advantage: they return in perfect con- dition afier being washed, and only too frequently the alpaca ones are not sent home in such gzood shape after passing through the cleaner’s hands. The success- ful summer girl is not, of necessity, the one who has a dozen trunks full of Paris confections. Her well-groomed sister, with an abundance of dainty, fresh and pretty trocks, with becoming and suitable hats, will be just as fetching and attractive. Re- membsr cne thing: be always sweet and fresh looking, never don arumpled or a slightly soiled gown, stay in your room all day rather than look like a frump, and be sure, even for your bedroom, to have pretty dressing gowns, for if you become accustomed to surrounding yourself with lovely things the effect will be extremely benericial. The new opera-glasses fold perfectly flat into a flat leather pocket, the size of a card- case. An appropriate gift for a bicycle enthu- siast consists of “a bicvcle bag.” 1t has straps to lasten to the handle-bar of the machine, and contains a watch, a looking- glass, a card case and a handkerchief vocket. There is also room for the ltttle tools required for tire-repairing. Every- thing is S0 compact that the so-called bag is a small affair. Bicycle gloves made of white doeskin, with tan or white leather palms, are much liked, and can be had **en mousquetaire” to go over the cuff, or with a patent-button fastening, and this reminds me that in Europe pearl stud buttons have been very successfully adapted to gloves and are very stylish and especially pretty on white gloves, and are said to be a great ad- vance over buttons, as they do not tear the buttonholes. Open work stockings having a crepon- like desien are quoted as desirable novel- ties, and come in black and tan, in lisle thread and silk. MARCELLA. —_————— FOR MEN. Bicycling and golf are in great vogue East and quite excellent are the golf stockings now to be had here. Shades of brown are most popuiar. Itissaid in New York that one out of every fifteen men who wear golf costumes gnows the game. The assortment of cies 1§ good, as far as it goes, at our leading stores, but the variety is not extensive, one window be- ing decorated with any number of ties and scarfs in blue, green and crimson, all of which have a white geometrical figure up- on them. The Suobcgegmn will be much seen all summer, but not the bright glar- ing shade. The club ties so Ipo ular last seasun will be even more 80 this, but _they areto bea trifle nurrower and will be striped, for striped are also to be the smartest shirts, White Ascots will be much worn an¢ “Him' writes: “‘One of the novelties will be Khaki cloth. Iam only informed of this and it does not come irom the very best of sources. This is a species of cotton, out of which the uni- forms of Tommy Atkins for bot climates is manufactured, Itis proposed to have knickers and sack coats made of these. The material is almost buff in ¢alor and it resembles brown holland, which was very successfully employed in golf clothes last summer."’ Tkhe newest silk hats from London show a tendency toward the revival of the chim- neyv pot and have a gentle curve. Our hats are said to be unusually good in quality and shape, and it is asserted that they are lichter and more durable than the Englisn ones. If they hold their color equally well imported ones will no longer pe in demand, A writer in Vanity makesa good remark when be says that ““There are some good tailors in London, who fit and cut well, but the majority do not, and especially the most famous, who are never patronized by the ‘smart’ set, but by foreigners at- A TOILET OF BLACK AND WHITE SILK. tracted by their reputation. 1t is truea| lew years ago our smart men got their clothes from London, and some, from force of babit, like Hamilton Cary, con- | tinue to do so, but the bon ton of the | jeunesse doree, who devote study to the ' subject, now find the American tailor | better in every respect than his London rival. There is no disputing this state- | ment. All the best turned-out men on | the avenue are the products of American | tailors.” Pajamas made of Chinese or Japanese | silks are more comfortable than those of flannel or linen for both summer and win- ter wear, besides they stand rough hand- }il}lx from the laundrymen very success- ully. Hemstitched handkerchiefs with very narrow borders are much liked. It isa sitive fact that in the provinces in Eng- land scarlet evening coats are being worn to informal little dances and dinners. At times it looks as though conservative Eng- land would be the first to champion a change in evening dress. There is a move being made to banish brown kid walking boots, and doubtless with this end in view a London boot- maker, recognizing also the craze for green is trying ‘‘to rush,” dark-green kid-laced walking boots. A firm of three popular lawyers in New York recently gave an afternoon '‘tea” in their spacious apartments, which proved to be a tremerdous success. The idea isan | excellent one from one point of view. = C. C. B18 RALS AT THE HEAT She Says No Woman Can Reconcile Pleasure With Perspiration. How Ladies and Bzbies Should Be Dressed to Insure Warm Weather Comfort. NEW YORK, N. Y., April 27.—On very cold days in winter we singa hymn de- scribing the joys of heaven as consisting principally of never-ending music and summer weather. The writer of that hvmn never livad in New York. Summer weather | in New York means sun on both sides of | the street; it means absolutely no getting away from the rays, aud it means general depravity. The only reason why every one of us doesn’t kill his neighbor during the hot days is because some exertion would be required, and then, too, the blood wauld look hot. That is the only why-for. When the thermometer is at| ninety-five in the shade every man is every man’s enemy, and every woman hates every woman with an intensity that can only be appreciated by Satan. | The messenger-boy who answers your | call has his cap cocked on the back of his | head, and exudes heat. He guarrels with you about the tariff, and presents of oranges or apples have no effect on him. | The %ook may say one thing, but he says another; and be is grumpy and disagree- | able, doubts your being ‘a perfect lady, | and fully believes that the place of pun- | ishment intended for people who want er- | rands run is Hot, spelled with a capital H. | The elderly lady who walks Broadway, | with a tiny black silk parasol between her | and the snnshine, wonders that she feels | so wicked. Her broad back is covered with black alpaca; and all black ma- | terials absolutely seduce sun rays to come and rest upon them. She wears mitts, | and going into the big shops, retires to the | ladies’ parlor, so that she may have nn} opportunity to use her starch bag. 1 She does not believe in *‘boughten pow- der.”” Her mode of preparing the cooling stuff is to bang the starch with a potato- | masher until it is a fine powder, and pour | Florida water over it, and then when 1t is dry put itina flannel bag. This is her refuge in trouble. When the perspiration streams down her face she stops the liquid warmth by dabs with the starch bag, and she looks, after she has used the starch bns without a mirror, like a study in red and white, the red underlying the white, while the white rapidly becomes lumpy. She would fose her complexion altcgether, but when she gets home limp, and with no faith in anything, with a doubt even as to the truth of the Westminster Catechism, she takes a cup of hot tea to brace her up; this brings about a profuse perspiration, a perspiration which amounts to a rain- storm, and the dear old soul is saved men- IIW and morally while she drips. eather affects the temper of the ele- vator-boy. Yesterday he was deeply in- terested in a novel called “The Queen of Rubies, or Who Was She?’ But to-day he does not care a continental dam (1 spell it without the n, he spells it with) | He wonders if there is a hereafter. whether she was a typewriter or & mani- cure, but he knows he hates averyboz‘!lg. e thinks he is getting his taste of it now, | riding up and down in a hall room by the | power of steam. Civility and he are un- known quantities. He wonders why he was ever born, and why, if he had to be | born, he was fool enough tobe bornina | country where the weather man gives you | August heat in April and March winds in | July. You can’t tip him into pleasant- | ness. The heat has affected him so that | all he hopes for is a sudden disappearance | of himself into the poetical wave that | washes the shores and makes one ac- | quainted with the dirt that comes from New York to Coney Island. He despises the girl that went up in the elevator a little while ago. She looked cool. He heard her telling her sister her method for keeping cool, and he wondered | how it would work if she bad to wear heavy blue cloth clothes with gold braid | and gold buttons on them. Shesaid: “I| first take a very hot bath, and then, after | the usual drying process, T powder myself | well with the very best French powder. | No, no starch for me. Then I puton the | lightest of underwear, a silk skirt anda | shirt waist. I am wise enough to havea | sensible waist measurement; it is twenty- four, by the by. and so I am not drawing a | belt in and making my face as red as pos- | sible. It always amuses me to think about | the women who lace; the judgment is so certain and so sure. They not only get | red faces, but they get red noses, and the | red of their nose is the kind that cores to | stay. Oh, anybody can be cool 1f they want to.” Tt was only the electrocution, | that beastly etfect, that prevented the | elevator-boy from killing her outright, for | evervbody cannot be cool. | Talk about women being slaves of fash- ion—that's ponsense. Poor, benighted man doesn’t dare put on a straw hat, no matter how hot the weather is, until a | certain date has come ahout, and the con- | sequence is that poor, benighted man is | hot. Hot with a vengeance. Hot as the bonest worker in a melodrama. Hot in such a way that he makes everybody in his home more uncomfortable. The family wonder what is the matter with father. This is the matter: As father is a fool, like most other men, he does not suit his clothes to the thermometer, and he is wearing a stiff shirt, a heavy waistcoat, equally heavy trousers, an ordinary win- ter coat and a high silk hat. And that he doesn’t turn into a grease spot is only be- NEW TO-DAY. Crepon Nouveaute, $1.25 and $1.40 Crepon Nouveaute, $1.75 and $2.25 Crepon Kouveaute, $3.00 and $3.50 Crepon Nouveaute, $4.00and $5.00 Grenadine Faconne, $3 and $3.50 Grenadine Faconne, $4 and $5.00 Etamine Novelty, $2.50 and $3.50 Bengaline Faconne, $3 and $3.50 ii\ii‘i;’3?iiifl.’@iii‘iiiii)i’??’iiiiii?; | purposes for which the cause the gentleman who reigns in the regions down below has other little terrors. waiting for him. | f The woman of fashion doesn’t have an easy time when the hot days come. She must live up to her reputation for fing she realizes that drops of water, those lit- tle drops so aff-ctionatelv suni about, are slowly but surely traveling over her cheeks, and making rather a confused mess of the rouge and the powder and the blue lines that she has so carefully ar- ranged. She doesn’t look well unless s::@ has a few soft curls on her forebead, and no matter how closely they are curled; this peculiar weather (decency compels me to call it by no stronger name) knocks out all curls except those that nature has.ar-. ranged. I will tell you who are to be pitied these hot days—the babies. Tte poor little mites are swathed in flannel and folded in huge cioaks, not allowed to hear because of thick silk caps, and not allowed to breathe because of thick lace veils. Those baby lips would so like a sip of water, and they cannot ask for it. If they cry, nine times out of ten they are banged on the back and jolted up and down until they are almost ready for infantine insane asylums. If they fairly yellin their de-: sire for a cooling drink, nine more times out of the proverbial ten tbe end of a long black tube is poked in their mouths, and they suck up a liquid that is haif warm and half sour, and bound to bring pains where pains are most unpleasant to a baby. ki Nobody ever thinks a baby is thirsty except for food; nobody ever thinks that, Wwhen the thermometeris at 90, three flan= nel petticoats are too much for even a baby. Do you suppose that a baby likes to have its lower gnnnel petticoat lapped. over and buttoned so that it doesn’t con- trol its legs? I wish a society for the proper dressing of babies in warm weather could be started ; such a society would be of a great deal more importance than one that lends pictures or gives flowers to the dwellers in tenement-houses. Who invented thermometers? Satan, [ am sure. Nobody would have had the art when you jeel uncomfortable, mussy, warm, cross, and certein that itis a hun= dred and two, to have that horrid thing mark it only eighty-seven. It is hard to pray in summer time, but here is a fervent prayer: “From too much heat and all its attendant evils, good Lord, deliver Bas. LEAP Y AR. Now they can leap, The maidens dear, And ao it with- Out any fear. Foris it not The great good vear That most all girls Now hold so dear? And those who are Of proper age Should now embrace Their privilege. For dear leap year Will not come more ‘Till in your date You see a four. So, Amazons, Here is .o chance— Do not retreat, But all advance. ————— DR. JOHN A. MiLLER, author of “Femina,” s book for home treatment for women. givesires consultations to women and children from 2 to4 P. M. &t his Pol, ¢ Pharmacy, 1018 Va- lencia street, corner Hill. Agents wanted: for “Femina.” —Peck’s Sua NEW TO-DAY, zi)iii’i)i#ii??ii)i’i: % Special Saving Sale Haviland China With Beautiful Hand- painted Decora- stions. -These :prices— or. Mon- day,Tues- day and :Wednes- @ ‘day only W . —are one-" * third less than reg- * ular val- ues. Tea Cups and Saucers, 25¢; Coffee Cups and Sauc- ers, 35c; After-dinner Coffee,- 20c; Dessert, Plates, 20c; Large Plates, 25¢. See them in the window. THAT BIG CHINA STORE— A Quarter of a Block Below Shrave’s. WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & QO,, \ AR AAREEEE OGS # 528 and 530 Market St,, % 27 and 29 Sutter St., ; BELOW MONTGOMERY. BAEEEEEAESAAAEEAEAESEE WRINKLEINE PASTE, A SCIENTIFIC SKIN FOOD. The latest and most won= dertul scientific_discovery for removing and_ preveni- inz wrinkles. This new treatment _stimulates the capillary circalatios, con- stantly sipplying new tis- sue and carrying off all waste and foreign matser from the face ana ek, making them look fresh and youthful. ‘Why should the fuce look old and wrinkled while the ¢\ body sl retaing its youtn o Yand plumppess? 1t - has \ ¢ AN\, taken the place of <old cream and ctrates formerly used for sore lips, chafirg and baby/troubles. Price, $1.00 Each. This is to certify that [ have andyzed the Ah- toinette Preparations called Wrinkleine Paste and Wrinkleine Cream, and find them (o be_excellens preparations for the skin, that they are free from all deleterious substances and well adapted for the are designated. W. T. WENZELL, Analytical Chemist, MME. MARCHAND, 28 GEARY STREET, Hair and Complexion Specialist. FREUD'S GORSET HOUSE. SPECIAL SALE OF CORSETS 200 Dozen Ladies’ Black and Drab Corsets, Reduced From $1.75 to $1.00. The above goods com- prise the most recent pro- ductions in black ma- terials. GOODS SENT C. 0. D. SAMPLES FORWARDED. R. T. KENNEDY COMPANY. { =3 N 1170 MarKer ST, CORNERTAYLOR R THE Maze )y v 265598 PLEMANENTLY REMOVES SUPERFLUOUS hair by electricity at 1 a sitting; first sitting free: no scars lefi; mols ete., o ‘ es, Warts, also re- A Great - Corset | Bargain. ‘Spoon And ‘Straight Steels. CAUTION — Hay] stores, our Corse; e-l',‘;bl‘\unr:inenz. il orders recelve pro; ¢ . Tilustrated Cacalogue mahed free M. FREUTD o Ssonr, 742-744 Narket St. and 10-12 Grant Ave, HEEEEEEARA LR RN RN RS S Dz no agencies or branch is can be purchased ouly at pur MAKE NO MISTAKE IN oUR ADDREéS dressing, and 1t doesn’t please her whcn* A