The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 19, 1896, Page 30

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, APRIL 19, 15Y6. e g & HE past week has been a gay one, the presentation of **A Modern Ananias’ having been the princi- | pal event, which was brilliantly successful, most of our most ad- mired belles having been present. On the | same evening many well-known people were present at the charity concert given | in the Occidental partors. I trust that financially it was a succ for the cause is a worthy one and the programme was | excellent. On Friday another luncheon, | this time on Pine street, was given in| honor of one of our most popular brides; about twenty were present. On Thursday was the large recep'ion and tea at the Pixley home, to which were bidden all members of the “Needlework Guild,” a | nable charitable organization far-reaching | an¥ most excellent. The house was more than crowded. Saturday one of the| largest and most brilliant recentions of | the season was given by the patriotic | society of the Daughters of the Revolu- | tion. Almost all of our prominent women were present and nota few of their hus- | bands. The army and navy were well | represented. What a pity that half a | «¢ozen men-of-war were not in the harbor. | Many went from the clubhouse to the tea given in honor of one of San Francisco’s | most lovely debutantes. Toe tea con- cluded with a ainner party, greatly en- joyed by the numerous youthful guests. any other delig: tful affairs are on the is, and, as a result, all of us are busy new gowns and all manner of dainty, pretty things, as, with the arrival | of spring, it seems only right that our | gowns, etc., should be in keeping with the | beautiful background prepared by nature, 50 let us to our frills and fads. One of the | merked fashions is to have our sleeves gathered on the shoulders, in three to five runners. Speaking of linings reminds me that the silk buiayeuse is acain in fashion, and our skirte must be lined with a silk of a tone that shades into or harmonizes with the material, not one that matches it. A | black skirt lined with a violet silk, chang- | ing to gray, lines the skirt of a stylish London-made tailor suit with excellent effect. shionable skirts are as full as ever, but they are cut to stand out more at the sides and to fall more softly. “The fullness at the back narrows into elmort nothing.” This is Doucet's cut, for Paquin 1s trying to introduce fullness nn the hips, but without success, as on the poards of the leading Parisian theaters this mode has received no encouragement. The princess style is rapidly increasing m favor. Toe t sleeve is quite narrow to well above the elbow, and shaped to the arm, and then the material expands into soft folds, which form a puff. The great | object is to give an idea of length, forin | effect a long sleeve cannot be too long. Mouair,canvas and pique are being sold in great quantites, :¢ canvas and mo- hair gowns are frequ ntly trimmed with chineor shotsilks. Panels are sometimes introduced down the front. Let us trust that this very hideous fashion will not te generally observed. Basques are to be short, and must be cut | carefully with relation to the hips. Mus- | Jin rutfies will be seen on many gowns, and a new shade of yvellow has appeared, but few and far between are the women who can appear in vellow. Even a touch | of it about a dress will frequently run it. | Dark skirts will be much worn with bod- | jces having light touches about them. | Black grenadine will be universally worn | by smart women. The shirt and coat combination is as | much the vogue as ever, owing in a meas- ure to the popnularity of alpaca, mohair | and similar fabrics, which do not make up into satisfactory tight bodices and only should be handled 5y a good tailor, and | for such costumes the sleeves are de- cidedly smaller. However the moditied | puff still cxists. Naturally cravats and | waistcoats are important subjects and the most exquisitely fine and beautifully em- broidered cambrics are utilized. Grass | lawn run with gold threads is declared by | good authorities to form excellent close- | fitting waistcoats. They fasten invisibly. An expensive and beautiful article is the waistcoat of chiffon elaborately frilled. The finish of the waistcoat at the neck de- pends upon the contour of chin and throat, as only the woman with the slender long | throat can wear the chic thick ruffle put around the top of the collar band. The woiran with a plump, well-shaped throat | looks well in tbe plain turndown linen | collar. This collar is to be much worn | this season, especially on silk shirts when completed with a_silk neckiie. The new- est turndown cuffs are just one incn in width. They are becoming to the hand and give a finishing touch to a plain shiry sleeve. In many cases entire bodices are being made of embroidered batiste, and yet| others are entirely composed of embroid- | ery, excepting the sleeves. One variety | can be had in an overlaid pattern in red, ! dark blue or black. Edgingand insertions | can always be had to match the open-work | embroidery. Batiste and lace frequently | trim bodices, the center being of plain | batiste, the edging which borders boti | sides of the plain fabric is of narrow Valenciennes lace embroidered with a pat- | tern of dots worked in twine-colored | threads. Batistes worked in silk are lovely and will néver become common, being very expensive. For the same reason the finest embroidered grnss linen may be | safely used, as $3 and $275 per vard are | prices asked, and _the width is not great. 1 have heard of a good use for this, A waist of a fine French taffeta came home to a friend of mine from her dressmaker covered with a fine black silk applique lace, which not only formed the vest and collar, but also covered the back. It was an expen- sive garment, so on discovering that the | shade of blue was hideously unbecomin, especially after the addition of the black, Miss X was for a moment undecided what | | | The most to do, as she at once saw that the bodice | must be relieved with a light color; so she | carefully removed the black trimming and purchased a piece of wide grass lawn in- sertion for a vest and sufficient of a fine edging to make 2 soft pretty collar and cuffs. The vest was placed over white silk and the collar and cnffs prettily finished with a touch of black velvet. Now the waist is a success, and many an old bodice could be freshened up in”the same wa and the expense will not be heavy, as balf a yard of he insertion is sufficient, which means 75 cents, and five yards of the lace at 40 cents per yard will be all sufficient, add 25 cents for white silk to line the vest, and for $3 you can produce results that will be most satisiactory. Dresses of twine-colored linen canvas are very stylish East, ana this material is to be had 2t one of our principal stores. I | have a’““ seen a gown of it, and am con- | vinced that for outing nothing better | could be used. The one I saw was the work of an excellent tailoress here. and consists of a jaunty little silk-lined coat, a tailor vest with smatl white pearl buttons and an absolutely plain skirt, perfectly cut and well bung. It has a silk ruffle but no lining. Such a gown can be worn with a feeling of placidity, as in every detail it is faultless and certainly can be . ( | the summer season.” | gout. | has vanished, and the skirts, 00000 ql 2 2y = il worn an entire season without having to be con-igned to the laundryman if occa- sionally pressed. A @ésrl:P:em b For seaside hops a bright girl is having | a silk giagham made up into one of the most fetching irocks 1 have seen, 'l gingham has a white ground, with bright orange siripes and white satin dots. A little yellow satin, a few yards of mousse- line de soie and several yards of white lace enter into its composition. : I think our giris are generally modest in their expenditures on summer bats, fora New York correspondent writes, hree to four hats are quite indispensable (if one intends to be atall smart) during The same writer makes a good remark. She says: The | *‘from . It is a dangerous thing to have horticul- | tural enthusiasms when ordering or selecting a bat of the new order where space on crowns and brim afford such broad sweeps for self-indulgence. The thing to avoid is this over-trimming, which enters so stealthily under the ban- ner of ia mode itself, to destroy our bon To the happy mean must one look for lasting satisfactions and most alluring appearances. It follows then that a limi- tation to our expenditures is a cayital safe- guard, hindering us from disfiguring our- selves by masses of gorgeousness, and wild 1ncongruities. The expression wild incongruities exactly expresses the ap- pearance presented by many of the | chapeaux 10 be seen on el sides. They are simply wonderful and dreadful, great glar- ing pink roses perched aggressively beside bachelor buttons or the yellowest of cow- slips next forget-me-nots, and such great bunches of t ings, I shudder when I re- call some of them and sigh when think- ing of many of the pretty sweet faces that are under these flower gardens. I say again, try to avoid top-heavy bats. Exert your individual taste, if you have any, and of all things try to find a milliner who values her repatation for chic too highly to send her customers home monstrosities. Parasols are now receiving their share of consideration, and well worthy are they of both our admiration and commendation as well, for they are deliciously pretty and artistic. Sitk-covered ones are stiil shown with Dresden flowers, but large con- ventional designs in lowers of silk those having plain or Cbina silk borders or shaded colors are shown and those com- posed of plaided silks are also to be had. The pure white parasois are sore tempta- tions for the pretty girls with limited al- lowances, for they must be covered with aving | a white or dark ground are newer, and | fine net or iace frills or with chiffon, | which can be white or softly tinted to match thelin'#g. One virl had last sum- mer a white silk foundation covered with ruffies of a lovely flowered gauze: the ruffles she had frequently changea: first the parasol was frilled with a gauze cov- ered with wild roses, then with one sprayed with buttercups. It next ap- peared zorgeous with poppies and 1 have no doubt that it will do good service again this season. Very effective is a parasol of white satin, covered with a heavy white silk nst em- broidered in quaint geometrical designs. It has a deep ruffie okg black chiffon. The handle is white, with a large Dresden knob painted in black and purple. This is the property of a pretty widow, and this reminds me that fashion has decreed that even those in the deepest mourning can wear dead white. The Princess of Wales always does so, and it is a usual custom in Europe, and g yery sensible one in_all re- spects, especially in the summer time. I see that a novelty in parasol covering is being well received. It is sold apart from the parasol, and is found in various sheer fabrics, more or iess washable. These coverings are said to be most useful, and are made of white netina series of full ruffles, or of dotted nets. Perhaps the most useful are of sheer muslin, lace edged, and deep ruffles of Valenciennes are much liked. Among the most chic gowns to be seen are those of mousseline de soie. They in not only plain and solid colors, but in “chine effects of two shades of the same color as well.” Black tulle gives a Frenchy touch to many toilettes and is most extensively used, being unusually becoming. ¥ Eton and Figaro jackets appear in many delightful fabrics and combinations. Black grenadines, in a multitude of open designs, are to he, worn over colored taffe- tas. ) gagitiful gown is of cross- r pale green satin, the ough the bars. The ¢ Cit in one at the back, the front of the waist "being crossed upon one side with large buttons studded with emeralds, placed artistically below the wai-t. The bodice is prettily finished at the neck, being cut away in a narrow square and filled in with cream velvet out- lined with beautiful lophophors embroid- ery. {Vomen with any pretensions to style all possess at least one smart tailor gown, and as a critic remarks, “the tailor cos- tume is more classical than it has been for the last few seasons.” The sleeves are smaller, the jackets shorter and the godet 3 although lain, demand the greatest care'in the cut, verything derends on the fit, and the skirt must be of the exact width requisite for ease of movement, and it must be weil shaped to the hips. In spite of the varied weaves in alpaca and mohair which are to be had serge holds its own, biue and black being always in demand, and now a darx shade of red is much wsgtiin Paris. A. gown of this fabric, worthy our admira- tion, has an extremely dep hem, which is quaintly braided with a fancy black braid, its short coat, with full basque, shows an inner waistcoat of black watered silk, which in its turn reveals a shirt front of tucked lawn. The linen coliar turns down over a bandana silk tie, which shades | into a green. With this costume is worn a hat of dark red sfraw, trimmed jwith dark red and green sacarves of tulle and a reat bunch of crimson roses with their eaves. Black suede gloves gave the finish- ing touch. A most satisfactory gown I present this week of a dark green tweed, which comes from one of London’s best tailors, the cape and skirt of the tweed, with facings of white cloth and the small buttons are of zold. The blouse, which completes the dresy, is of green Irish poplin, with t e latest sleeves, which fit tightly to the shoulders, with a large, puffy looking | and silver and copper. | is placed on a foundation of orange shot | H | made of th isitely fine embroidered | are simply incrusted with laces and come | bl haeliegd 2 A AND v =L P R epaulette, over which extends a large collar of Irish point. 1 A brown tweed frock with pipings of | myrtle green velvet is very stylish. It has a plastron of a lighter shade of brown, the | pretty little turned-down collar is of the velvet, which pipes all the seams. The | skirt is cut as Redfern knows so weil how | to cut all garments made by him, for this one comes from his establishment. A round, brown straw leaf, simply trimmed | with quills and rosettes of green velvet, is suggested as very appropriate to be worn | wi{g this gown. The evening dress illustrated is the | production of a Frenchwoman. Itis of *‘thick, cream-colored satin, edged with | sable, the seams on either side being of the loveliest lace. The stripes are of nar- row black velvet, studded with aiamond buttons.”” The bodice is draped round the figure and is of the cream satin. Tt has an inner chemisette of the finest muslin and lace insertions. As you see, the sleeves reveal the arm, the small under- sleeve being made of insertion of tucl lise the top portion of the bodice, whic is threaded with the tiniest of pink satin ribbons. 7 A good visiting dress is composed of chine silk of black and white stripes. The kodice is of a modified directoire with | cape-like revers, andfa waistcoat of white | satin and paste buttons, as are also the | gauntlet cuffs of the satin. A jabot of lace | effectively finishes it. | For a young woman nothing could bel more desirable than a nayy blue canvas | lined with orange color shot chine, with a | | tive in cloth as in velvet. beautiful gauzes to be found in such rich profusion at all our large stores. Traceries of beads, jet, gold and silk are seen on others, Besides the capes of silk are to be found capes of pean de soie, ruffled with silk edges, chiffon, and beautified with an applique of white lace. Spangles are seldom seen except on grass lawns, when they are permitied to decorate the glace silk capes. A cape of white and gray stnged glace has quadruple capes edged with full ruches of black net. It fits quite closely in at the back, fastening_into the waist with a ribbon-belt. A dear little cape of violet velvet has a collar of white satin, the equare revers are covered with an exquisite embroidery of violets incerspersed with esthetic browns and greens on grass lawn foundation. The lining is of white satin, and around the neck is & larie ruche of white chiffon. For a young slender woman I recommend acapeof drab cloth with square white satin revers covered with embroidered lawn. This cape fits closely in the back, and it fastens below the waist in front | with a hook and eye. Each seam is striped with narrow embroidery, which almost meets at the waist, and is lined witha fawn silk, shot with green. For evening wear has been created a mantle of tan moire bengaline. The collar is of the finest old lace, and the lining is of glace of a changeable green hue. The sleeves are caught up so as to show a touch of this greez—the back hangs in two largze Wat- teau pleats, down each of which is seen an insertion of the lace. The full short coat, which is one of the novelties, hangs from the yoke t® about three inches below the waist. This pretty arment is being much patronized in aris, as it is very attractive, being easily adjusted, comfortable, and almost as effec- The neck is usually completed with a ruche of net or chiffon, but tho tabbed Tudor collar 1s al- ways used for those who have short necks. | When it adorns a cloak destined for any one with a long, slender throat, a ruche of chiffon shows between each tab. These loose coats,.of course, have laree, loose sleeves without any suff interlining. A truly charming coat of this description is the property of a New York belle, and only she and her little French maid knew that it did not come direct from one of the great French houses. This garment was evolved from aremnant of rici green satin, which forms the coat and sleeves, the yoke being made of a delightful scrap of won- derful green velvet, embossed with pinkish crysanthemum. This yoke isoutlined with narrow dull-gold passementerie; the vest is of cream-white, accordion-pleated chif- fon, and shows the color of the lining, which is of a very delicate pinkish satin. Three rows of the passementerie encircle the neck, over which is sewn a ruche of the chiffox. A STYLI!SH TAILOR GOWN, bodice embroidered in thin utriPes of goid With this should | be worn a fancy cape of black net, which | silk in a series of three very full box-| pleated ruffles, the first three of which are | finisked with a full ruche of black lace; | such a ruche completes it ut the neck. The dress of grass lawn_is now too com- mon to merit our consideration, unless lawn—the $2 75 ver yard guality—over | silk. Just such a frock has been received | with approval and it is completely lined with whitz silk. The beautiful open-work embroidery around the hem gives one a glimpse of the silk. The bodice is full and trimmed with frillings of embroidery and lace. The sleeves extend to the elbow only and are striped with the embroidery. I'have just read about a pretty colored poplin made with a short Eton bodice composed of embroidered grass lawn, on which are worked medallions of guipure. Three rows of black velvet ribbon trim it and the front is of white chiffon, the col- lar being of a most becoming shade of green. serviceable dress is of blue gibe- line, with panels of green cloth braided in black. The jaunty coat has a vest of green braided. Such a long time has elapsed since I mentioned tea gowns that I am sure you will be 1nterested in hearing of one of a soft bluish green brocade. It has a floral design, made with a Watteau pleat falling from beneath a pointed collar, which is bordered by a gold !E%l:h’l trimming. of which also the corselet beit is made. The sleeves are of the new shape, consisting of a shoulder puff and roffled chiffon. Down the front, from the neck to the foot. a jabot of accordion-pleated chiffon falls grace- fully. Another is very dainty of shot ap- ple-green silk, which has a front of chiffon and - bretelles of embroidered lace, with painted medallions on the white satin. One of the most admired gowns in *‘The Grosse Fortune” was a princess one of a light green veivet which laced at the back | and was absolutely plain excepting that the material in the bodice fell apparently in natural, swathed folds. From Paris comes quitea novélty. Itis a gown of striped zreen and white chine | silk with roses. This joins a plain skirt and full bodice with a folded belt of the same over this. This is intended for house wear, but for out of doorsis worn over this a shaped skirt of green canvas bor- dered with a narrow galon. It opens in front showing the flowsred silk and could be thrown off at_a moment’s notic, and the bodice has a vlainly cut hali-handker- chief of the canvas, the point falling at the back, the two ends being tucked under the belt in front, thus completely trans- forming the appearance of the gown. The | s eeves are close-fitting to above the elbow. The fullness is caught up in the center. Silk capes are to flourish as never be- fore, and ure to be of great beauty, when encircled with lace, chiifon of&ny of the | skirt and have a braided cuff. It is not likely that more than one or two of these coats will be seen here this summer, but we may expect them to be worn in a slichtly modified form all through the autumn and winter, a word to the wise, you know, so begin collecting appropriate remnants. A coat of black satin with a military braiding on the sleeves of gzold braid is said to be attractive. ‘A frill of shot rib- bon emerges from the back of the sleeves, edged with black Russian net; the revers are of white satin.” The front is of em- broidered grass lawn with frills of the shot ribbon edgea with black net. Al- though I have not seen this garment I can say unbhesitatingly that I should not care about it; however, I mention it, as I want ail tastes to be satisfied. For traveling or driving cloaks are now being made which are lovely affairs, not bearing the slightest kinship to the hide- ous old-fashioned dusters of brown linen or pongee. The new ones can be had in shot glace or chine silk, or in any of the new mohairs. They are trimmed with a ruche of sitk or lace; for instance, one has | wide fall of lace encircling the shoul- ders and extending down the front, the collar being a rea: Tudor, lined inside and out with good Irish point. The.back is drawn in at the waistand is usually pretty and graceful. A garment which can be called neither cloak nor cape nor mantle is composed of black velvet. It sets full from asilk yoke and has_jet epaulettes, The sleeves ‘are curious wing-like affairs, tinished with a rache of black chiffon embroidered with gold. A ruche appears at the neck. The lining is of a shot blue and gold sitk. 3 Bodices and blouse bodies are receiving much attention at this season of the year, as in spite of ull reportsto the contrary our best dressmakers are weekly sendin out fancy waists of all descriptions, whic! willbe worn on numerous sorts of occa- sions. One seamiess bodice for street wear has a slightly gathered front, which is braided all over with a small design prettily contrasting with the light cloth of which it is rgjad& The sleeves match the s The waist is finished with a twisted scarf ot silk, . A bodice that can be worn in the even- ing and at home in the daytime is cut highout of a rarely lovely piece of light blue silk, which is covered with a rich lace of a coarse texture, with here and there a gold ring embroidered upon it. At the neck and siecves there is a soft ruche of delicate biue tulle. This waist can be worn not only with a skirt of blue, but equally well witfl gray or biack, A novelty described as ‘‘charming” is a bloute in white leather, embroidered in black and silver with white undine slecves. This was worn with a handsome black cloth skirt. Embroideries will be worn extensively and on a black satin_bodice .appeared cut steel cabochons, This satin is draped about the figure and the sleeves are com- posed of black chiffon caught up on the shoulder, tied handkerchief fashion, and the satin skirt is relieved by four panels striped with the single steel cabochon. This is a good and useful gown. ._A bodice of violet velvet is embroidered in gold, jet and turquoise. The top por- tion of this and the puffed sleeves are of velvet chiffon lined with an unusual shade in blue, and the skirt of violet silk 1s striped with tucks of violet velvet. These g0 straight around at the back, pointing I!E\Tard at the side in a style said to be like the early Victorian. One of the latest additions to a bodice is the new tippet. It s distinct from the skirt and easily added, and entirely alters the appearance of a gown. For instance, 4 dress of shot mohair has a bodice of chine glace trimmed with white lace, jet- studded, The tippet is of the mohair. A narrow galoon edging it, of the lace, extends in two sharp points below the Wwaistband of satin ribbon, which ties in a smart bow at the left «ide. A boaice cut in the coat style is very chiec, being of peach and green silk; the front and sieeves are adorned with lace. The sleeves are slashed here and there and turn back in revers, showing the silk lace between the slashings. Very fetching are the shiris which are being made of bandana in_red, green and Eold, but some greatly favor the latest ondon fad, shirts of white satin, made with a stiff front, tucked on either side. These have turn-down collars and cuffs of satin. At the neck is tied a white satin bow. They are said to be *‘the most be- coming, the most expensive and the most unusual shirts seen” for a long time, and they must be made by a regular man’s shirtmaker. The latest fad is a ‘‘Marie Antoinette tea.” This suggests delightful and novel ideas, worthy of the cousideration of tea- givers, A “Cbafing-dish Club” flourishes in Bal- timore and is declared to be ‘‘great fun.” The fair members have to pledge themselves to eat there what they cook. Notatalla bad idea this, to_experiment on themselves instead of waiting to experiment on hus- bands later on. MARCELLA. — FOR MEN. Some men, weary of colored shirts, have declared their intention of wearing white shirts this summer. However, the blue and pink shirts will be great favorites, but no man will ever indulge in more than one vellow shirt, for they are wonderfully unbec ming, but very blonde men may look artistic when arrayed in some of the latest shades of green. Concerning the colored shirt a writer says that as long as London aud £ngland exist it will probably be fashionable, and its star in theascendant. Lt would he per- fectly correct to wear white linen during the entire year, if you chose, but white linen bosoms are not seen frequently when the club tie, which is the only comfortable neckwear for summer, is in vogue. You could wear white or colored percale scarfs, but they would look very warm and un- comfortable in midsummer. A'though the barberdashers’ shops teem with colored shirts, and everv one is wearing them, still there are only a certain number of men who are seen in the best examples and designs. We all wear trousers and coats and hats, but it is individual ideas which denote tue line between the com- mon and that which is smart. When wearing colored shirts the cuffs must match the shirt bosom and correct shirts always have the cuffs attached. gufis are still square and must not be too eep. Silk and Madras shirts are being made with white cuffs attached. On shipboard s man can wear a black morning or cutaway coat in to dinner, and when crossing the Atlantic many men wear “knickers” with thick-soled russet leather shoes. Last summer men dressed very little at Newport, taking as their examples the Duke of Marlborough and other titled Englishmen, who looked on all occasions cool and comfortable, and did not even wear their frock coa ts or top hats to church on Sunday. Knickerbockers will be more worn than ever before this summer. as the bicycle tours will be very numerous; but unless possessed of an unusually good figure, a man will not risk having his knickers made ny any but a first-class man. One tailor, I see, is offering to make jacket, breeches and cap for from $10 to $20. Last summer, at Tuxedo, many com- mented on the fact that men were not particular enough about having their wagons and carriages in perfect condition. Indeed, some of the horses did aot have their hoofs properly scraped and black- ened. There is a decided tendency shown to be careless in such matters, men seem- ingly forgetting that “their traps should be as immaculate as their boots or their linen,”for, as a critic well remarks: *You may have all the pedigree you wish; your name may figure as a patron of half a dozen associations, and it may be followed by all sorts of mystic initials in the social register. This may do in its way, but give me a glance at a man’s horses, his carriages and his servants, and I will tell you whether he is a gentleman or not. They are the retlection of himself."” The knitting of golf stockings has not yet become a fad even in Burlingame. owever, the cheerful clink of needles may be heard ere long in that favored spot. Men certainly show individuality nowa- days when selecting their clothes, and when they possess taste as well the re- sults are excellent. ‘We continue to ve threatened with loud ties and terrific waistcoats. However, those who understand what is correct will never indulge in extremes, no matter what fushion may proclaim to be the lnte(s}t. o A FANCY. I wonder where the voices are of those we've lost and loved— Forever hushed and passed away, nor leaving sound or trace? I wonder where the glances are of tnose who 'mon?l us moved— Forever dimmed as dreams we've dreamed or dew sunbeains efface? I know not, yet I fain would think the tones that we have known Still in the world and make earth’s chansons still more sweet; And somewhere glances from the eyes of tender ones now flown. Are mingling with the beauties here our earthly gazes et. 7% Memphis Commercial Appeal. Silenced. Two rusties in a Sydney theater annoyed their neighbors by a long discussion of the merits ofga prize pig owned by one of them. A gentleman sitting behind them asked t eznoe of the pig. ¥ ‘*About £5, I suppose,” replied the star- ing countryman. The man, taking out his pocket-book, handed over a £10 note, and said: ‘‘Here is a tenner. Now that pig’s mine; just let her alone, if you please.”” The audience snickered, and though the countryman made a worful attempt to turn the joke by gravely pocketing the note and handing over the £5 change, the snub was crushing in its effect, and in the dead silence that followed the philan- thropic millionaire leaned back and mod- estly enjoyed his popularity. But what the rustics said when, after the performance, they tried to buy beer with the tenner and found it a counterfeit, is untit for publication.—Spare Moments. —————— A Hard Kind of Luck. The following conversation is reported to have taken place between a minister and a widow, both of Aberdeen, Scotland. The widow, who called upon the minis- ter, seemed desirous of relieving her mind of something which oppressed her, at ‘Which the reverend gentleman, wishing to hnr;{ up matters, exclaimed : “My good woman, you see I can be of no service to you till_you tell me what itis that troubles you.” _“Weel, sir, I'm thinkin’ o’ gettin mar- ried again.” *Oh, that is it! L:t me see; that is pretty frequent, surely. How many hus- bands have you had ?’’ **Weel, sir;”" sue replied, in a tone less of sorrow than of bitterness, *‘this is the iourth. I'm sure there never wis a wum- man sae completely tormented wi’ sic’ a set o’ decin’ men as I've been.’’—Spare Moments. 18 0N WEDDING VELLS Early Hist-ory of the Conven- tional Bridal Head- Covering. ANCIENT PENELOPE LEGEND. How the Ladies of Queen Anne’s Time Gluttonized in Meat and Drink. NEW YORK, N. Y., April 13.—As there are weddings and brides and suggestions of brides and weddings everywhere one is forced to wonder what the new woman will assume in place of the wedding veil. Naturally she won’t wish to wear that frivolous white tulle thing fancied now,as itis too feminine. Its very origin ises- sentially womanly. It isclaimed for it by the Orientalists that it is a remnant of the Eastern canopy, but it is also claimed for it that it had its origin in the bebavior of Penelope, who, when she was asked by her father whether she would leave him and go with her husband, did not answer, but drew her veil over her face to hide her blushes. This silence was equiva- lent to the “yes” which is said by the mod- ern maiden only more audibiy, ana at the altar. There'is no doubt aboutit that the most becoming veil is the soft one of shimmering tulle, which is cream white in shade and cloud-like in effect. A bride wants to seem enveloped in it; it must fall behind her and fall in front of her, like part of the heavens, surround her until she really seems a something en- tirely 100 good for everyday food, or an ordinary man. The lace veil inheritea from our grandmother, which is fre bought from a smart second-han shop, is expensive but not becoming. It makes a giri look matronly, and it will suggest | the lace lappets worn by her Royal High- | ness, Queen Victoria of England, a lady for whom I have tiie utmost respect, but whose appearance is not suggestive of a bride, Although vou and I would think a bride looked awiul in anything but a white veil, opinions differ. The happy Roman bride hid her blushes under a veil of deep yel- low. The Persian maid intensified her modesty, as painted on her cheeks, by weariny a veil of rose color; the Greek girl went her one better, and made her blushes look almost fierce by wearing a veil of bright red, while the young lady of Tur key put blusnes and eyes and everybody else under cover, that is, as far as seeing anything was concerned, by assuming a veil of brocade, seeded with pearls. The last named may be magnificent, but it sug- gests economy. Think of a girlin a bro- cade veil ? Think of a newly covered sofa! But wherever the bride is there should be some kind of a veil, although personally I should prefer tbe brocade of the Turkish lqd}y to tie black one worn by the Spanish girl. tainly will bring bad luck. I never could fancy a bride without a flesh veil. Even down on the Bowery the young woman who hires a white satin gown not’quite new, orange blossoms that have been used before, gets a new veil by paying alittle extra. You and I are inclined to scoff at the that, however, than in 3 gettiug cne after the fashion of Miss Sha by Genteel. She capacity for getting into debt. She reads | of the goreeous wedding frocks worn by | women who have millions of theirown and who wed millions; then she elects to wear | a frock as near like that of Miss Bullion | as she can; so, instead of putting her money in a neat little walking suit that | will be of use to her afterward, she buys | a cheap, cotton buck satin, lines it with canton flannel, gets a gorgeous tiara of | orange blossoms, a superb veil, white kid gloves, white siik stockings and white satin slippers, and the consequence is, in a month’s time, Miss Shabby Genteel has | nothing to wear. She is not invited to | houses where white satin is the rule, and | in time she realizes exactly how foolish she has been, while she bas the “doubtful | pleasure of wearing her old frocks and weeping over her iorly. Of course, a wed- ding frock can always be cut to adyantage | to make a baby’s cloak, but—well, some people are sentimental. | During the days of good Queen Anne it | was the thing for a lady never to be quite | well. Although the ladies of those days drank and ate until they hid their fiery | cheeks, not to mention noses, under pow- | der and rouge galore, still health was | counted a vulgar blessing, and those of the court never confessed to possessing it. | have they changed, or were they particu- been, or else the ladies of the ers not have had so much pleasure in being not quite well. Nowadays if a woman is | ill, unless she is staring death in the face, | the averaze man regards it asa personal | insult. | He flies from illness as he might from an invading army, and heis a great deal | more afraid of a bad headache or a fever | than he is of one of those new guns that shoot & million people at once. When he asks how are you it 1s in an aggrieved tone impossible to describe, and if you Lappen to have enough strength left to argue a ht- tle, and mention to him that you think it | strange he did not send a you a few flowers, | orsome dainties, he_remiarks: “Oh, well, | if you were really dying I would probably | care a great deal about it all because, of | course, I am really very fona of you, but when you are only a litide bit sick, well, it seems so unnecessary, and 1 would rather nat be around. Then, too, why didn’t you ask for what you wanted 2" From the standpoint of the Coroner, we die once in our lives. But a woman dies a hundred deaths from headache and heart- ache, and rheumatism and diseases that verge on pneumonia, but don’t quite reach it, and everything eise that is unpleasant and not dangerous. And these oecasional deaths are the ones when she would like to have a little thought given to her. When she is absolutely dying she don’t care. She is not troubling herself about men, then. It is while she is living that she would like to be remembered; when she is under the weather, as were those ladies in the days of good Queen Anne, when, perhaps, morais Were not quite as gooi as' they are now, but manners were a great deal vetter, History tells us that during those days the Duchess of Marlborough frequently had straw laid in front of her house o that she might not hear the carriages g0 by when she had the headache; and that once, when she was -near a garrison, she asked that the morningand evening shoot~ ing be stopped, as it hurt her head. And it was stopped. I would like to know just a few things. Do you think the Stock Ex- think that the abominable express-waons would stop running at night because some other woman had the h artache? Or do 7ou think a man would stop a game of bil- iards because some womung)adga wretched Ing quite as exasverating toanybody whois kept awake by illness as the sound of a xame of billiards, Next to it, in order, he noise made by a man who 1s both horn and man. T mean. anything, generalizing, wouid stop be- cause a woman was ill. And yet it opght to. Most of us women try prétty hard to keep well, and we started handicapped be- ing women. uently | It may be coquettish, but it cer- | girl who hires her white satin wedding | frock. There is a good bit more sense in | has very little money and an immense | I only wonder one thing, and that is, how | did the men bebave in those days, or| larly angelic during the reign of the good | Queen Anne? I think they must have | would | change would stop its hullaballoo because | some woman had the headache? Do you | cough and was nervous? There is noth- | ing a horn that is to be attached to | @ four-in-hand in the early June days— | I don’t think | there was a beautiful maiden who loved an equally handsome youth, who was below. her in rank, inasmuch as she was a prin- cess. And every day her favorite fox ter- rier went to him with a message of love, and every day he came back with another message of love. Now, one of the queer Fastern gods was her father, and he had determined to wed ner to a great king; but she refused and said she would only marry the man she loved. And she sent word by the little fox terrier to her lover that she would die for his sake, but that she would never become the wife of another man. And the lover whispered something to the little fox terrier and hid a quaint littie bottle in the collar of jewels that was about his neck. That same day the prin- cess heard that a beautiful youth, who was of nostanding, had been found dead on the street. Then she permitted her maids to dress her for her wedding. And the littie dog asked her if she were going to be un- faithful; and she looked at him as dogs lcok at women nowadays. When they fetched her into the temple in all her bridal finery and left her alone to pray she took from one of the gorgeous jeweled ockets that swung at her side the little ottle that her lover had sént her, and she swallowed 1ts contents. 2 They came to look for the bride, but they found a dead maiden, while beside her was a little dog erying as if his heart would break. And her wicked father called a curse on him, and said that, from that day on until the end of tne world no dog should speak except through his eyes. And if you have a bit of doubt about this story, you need only, some day when you are 1n trouble, ana a little dog who is fond of yon and whom you love is near you, look at him and he will say all that a friend couid say, but it will be with his eyes. True? Of course itis true. If you have any doubt at all about it—that is, any further doubt—you need only go to a small village 400 miles from Calcutta and the truth will be sworn to bv several priests in the temple there. And when the clergy swear to anything it must be true. Even truer than when women announce certain facts as truths. But this is enough about dogs. Let us return to women. Bas. NEW ‘IO-D; :iiii’i‘iiiii‘fi i‘iii‘iii.: SPECIAL ale. 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