The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 5, 1896, Page 26

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, APRIL 5, 1896. ASTER Sunday at last! much that means, in more senses than one,-but on the beautiful Christian understanding of this season I must not dwel!, for to me belongs the discussion of all the love- liest, freshest and daintiest of spring and summer apparel, for were our stores ever quite attractive as they are just at present? Downtown a very brief tourof inspection will reveal the fact that the vrettiest of capes and mantels, the most ethereal and artistic of lawns, organiies, the choicest and most beautiful of silks and the most chic bonnets and hats are to be bad in this Citv, which can- not be said to be lacking in well-groomed, ily clad women. L S0 aturally the past week has been ex- tremely quiet from a social standpoint, but the com [t until the exodus be- pins, will well filled. Many teas and receptions are announced, several dances and the usual number of card parties. Too bad, is it not. that several delightful affeirs have had to be “‘indefinitely post- poned.” I understand that one of our belles has no s her wedding will take place on 1 the 20th. Little Sausal:to is to be gay this sum- mer, and its rival, “beautiful Belvedere,” is to be a favorite resort, some oi our most delightful people having secured cottages for nve months, so ‘‘the Night in Venice” will. 1t predicted, be a more brilliant success than ever. The usual set will be seen at Monterey, Santa Cruz and Castle Crags. Asmostof us wear corsets, they are a generally interesting subject, and at the present moment embroidered batistes are the favorite materials used. They come in rose pink, blue, silver gray and heli trope, which are all embroidered in a silk of the same color, and there are also white batistes with colored designs upon them, and black batistes similarly treated. Bro- cades are always used in the manufacture of these useful adjuncts to our wardrobes, but those most liked exhibit the choicest of patterns of Louis Seize type, and pink roses on a pearl satin ground is a combina- tion always dainty and desirable. Corsets are being made with special care for ath- letic women. Bicyclists have their stays made short in front and long in the back for riding. The short French corsets are always worn, and now many slender women are wearing them altogether. Smartly gowned New York women declare, many of them, that to go through the season it is necessary to have at Jeast a dozen pairs, with petticoats to match, which 1s the correct thing now- adays, and the florated designs are pe- culiariy adapted to this purpose, botn light and dark colors being used. The corset should be finished with lace and three rows of beading, through which | narrow satin ribbons are run. I am glad to be able to announce that the correct corsets are short on the bips and low in the bust, which gives a more natural figure, as those which lace down the hips, making the tlesh bulge out lower down, are in deciaedly bad taste. Petticoats are, if possible, more lovely than ever, and are most carefully fitted over the hips, the fullness all being carried to the back. A deep Spanish flounce, finished by a narrow ruffle, gives the ne- cessary width around the bottom. A good silk must be used which will stand cut well, and & very narrow steel tape run through the beading of the ruffles | wives the necessary tlare. A very recent bride had one of her pairs of *stays” made of a heavy silk, light blue in shade, covered with blurred pink Dresden roses and dotted with white. A petticoat of the same silk has a little niche-like ruffle of lace around the bottom of the Spanish ruffle. For evening wear her skirt and corsets are of white watered moire covered with clusters of buttercups. These charming things are all very well for those who can afford them, but most of us have to bave our corsets cleaned and done over, and are thankful if we own a new pair and two others in good condi- tion, even if only of coutil. But I have friends who declare that they prefer to have every year a pair of silk or satin corsets from one of the best makers, even if they have to do without a new dress; and there is good sense in this sometimes, when, for instance, one has a very difficult figure to manage, or when there ure any defects that must be carefully Lidaen. Then even the most expensive of corsets mast, if necessary, be procured; but when a woman has a figure like a broomhandle she certainly can find plenty of corsets for $5 or $7 that will answer every purpose; and all corsets will lose their shape if worn too long, so it is best generally to have three or four pairs in- stead of one, only one of satin or silk. There is a fad now for having underwear mulls and | uperstition concerning the month of | How | | quisitely done. made by hand, many women ordering all of theirs from charitable institutions, where the sewing and embroidering is ex- This 1dea is an vxcellent one, as certainly it is more satisfactory to ve hand work, and, besides, in New alone it means bread for many starving women and young girls; so most brides are now ordering at least one or two sets of underwear to be made by hand. _Those who imagine they can tuck ina | piece of material in front and have a lovely vest effect are sadly mistaken and usually look hopelessly dowdy. One end of the stuff is certain to be sticking out, or the whole arrangement, in_ spite of de- taining pins, slips around and gets crooked, so I have come to the conclusion, from observation, that to successfully make a vest it must be fitted on a perfectly tight lining of silk in preference, and the lining once secure, the variations are easily managed under skillful amateur di- rections. A white silk lining fastened down the back, supplied with small sleeves, will do 1o begin with. The front can then be adorned with pleated tulle and the neck may be finished with a stock of Dresden ribbon or any new and pretty ribbon, or with soft filling of tulle or lace used as a cravat, and when weary of these arrangements try grasslawn, striped with cream-colored lace, making the pointed collar to turn over a broad band of white satin ribbon. These pointed collars are extremely narrow, measuring at their widest point only about one and a half inches. Vests of black tulle, net and chiffon, with an applique of cream lace, are excellent, as is also one of white lisse, with cream lace appligue; and a sensibie vest I have just seen is of plain white tucked muslin, overhanging a belt and fastened down the front with tiny pearl studs. 1 have been inspecting the newest mo- hairs and alpacas ana find that they ap- pear under every imacinable aspect— plain, shot and embroidered—but I prefer the plain ones, finding them the most economical, as well as the most attractive. More than one stylish girl is going to have a white mokair skirt made over white glace to take away with her this summer, with which she will wear, per- haps, a dozen different wuists, all of which wiil be fashioned out of quaint and charm- ing fabrics composed of silk, most of them, or of mousseline de soie, or chiffon. For morning wear, in the country, one belle has had two creamy skirts of batiste made up, with which she will have one waist to match, with bright green ribbons, over which is arranged some fine French batiste embroidery; then she hasa waist of palest blue organdy covered with buff roses and trimmed with creamy lace. A thick waist of light-sprigged pale lawn has a stock and wnislbnm{‘ of ribbon which match the batiste. All of these will wash perfectly, and be fresh and sweet all summer. I know some of you will say, Why, alpacas, mohair and batistes have been worn for two years, so this is nothing new, for by na- ture we are critical. However, I am quite aware of this and only make these sng- gestions, as among the multitudes of pretty summer things offered us this season 1t is no easy matter to decide which are best to select, and before making purchases I ad- vise you ail to carefully examine last sum- mer’s garments, as frequently with a little care and management we can have a very beautiful outfit at a trifling outlay. I re- peat, that grass linens are to be very com- mon. Last year they were in such great vogue that well-dressed women no longer con- sider them. Their day is passed for those who are up to date, but naturally the market will be flooded with them, tie plain ones, the dotted, the striped and those adorned with cross lines and squares, beside there are those thatcome done up nicely in boxes with froats, collars and cuffs and white embroidery over a color. Do not be tempted by these—they are not for you—that is, if you wish to be at- tired stylishly. An odd sort of robin’s- egg blue is to be had in both duck and denim, but I, for my part, prefer the duck, as it has an underthread of black, and it | costs just $1 50 for a dress pattern of twelve yards. One store here has the best assortment of French piques in town; in fact, I have seen none like them elsewhere. They consist of a narrow line of white in com- bination with one of either pale blue. light coffee color, pink or lavender, through which runs a tiny thread of black. This is a chic fabric, worth of close inspection, as otherwise its price might, at a glance, seem rather high, as they are 50 cents per yard. Fora skirt and Jjacket nothing could be better, and for shirt waists it is one of the prettiest things in town. Denims of blue and dark blue, with white pique revers and cuffs, will be seen at many resorts, and the only ob- jection I have to them is that tney are | bow of short lace bolero jacket, embroidered with | | paillettesand forming two battlemented | white shirt waists, having little figures or lines over them. e Icommend to your admiring considera- tion the organdies and lawns just uncased. Young girls are to have numerous tulle frocks, and ‘‘Malines tulles’ are to be had in everX possible shade. Tuey will be trimmed with lace, and all and every kind of lace, provided it is good, is in demand. Irish point is a great favonte, as is also Honiton. Pailleties and sequins play an important part in the newest embroideries. East and in Europe gauzes are in great demand, being of most unusual beauty. Transparent materials over silks will be universally seen, and loose-fitting fronts are no longer considered the latest for bodices. The iatest innovations in sitks are the shaded effects, in which the blurred color- ings fade into one another, as in a rain- bow. There is a novelty in moires— ‘“‘moire velours”’—which comes in white, with green, pink and white blended, or any other coloring, and is sometimes accom- panied by white stripes. Matrons con- tinue to use stamped velyets for dinner gowns, the colors now being spring-like and delicate. A deeper cream, tones of green, many of them revived from the forties, rich and pale violet, royal blues, the beautiful geranium pink, a new shade of vieux rose and straw-yellow, are all fashionable colors, and in everything do we see an un- expected touch of black. g atrons will use for some of their new- est gowns many yards of the black lisse now in such vogue, which has white lace sprays let in at intervals and uniting into conseeutive patterns by deep gold pail- lettes, which are also introduced onto the lace; but newer is a *‘white lisse ground with alternate black stripes, both worked in tambour stitch, with pretty running sprays. The contrast of black and white embellished with soft embroidery makes a beautiful skirt front to the seasen’s silks, and in this case the black embroidery is emphasized by white paste stones scat- | tered over it with a liberal hand.” Very effective also is a trellis work of silver thrown on black. A few days ago I observed a pretty slen- der woman attired in a gown made of cornflower blue facecioth, which had a bodice of silk to match it and a belt of gold galoon on which jet motifs were shown at intervals. A toque of corn- flowers was made very attractive with a reen and white tulle. The Parisian evening gown I illustrate to-day is ‘“made in one of the new and beautiful chine moire veloutines, with a tabs over the large sleeves, which are ; caught up with a bunch of flowers. This | gown is laced at the back and a beautiful | piece of jeweled embroidery borders the | top of the bodice and the front.” | 'i)'he other design should be carefully | noted, as the sleeve is an original design well worthy of reproduction. Itcompletes | a “fetching” gown. | A princess costume fresh from the hands | of a leading dressmaker is in & diagonal | cloth of the new blue gros; it has the | fronts outlined with black silk ruching and small barrel buttons with little chains | attached to them. The sleeves have the | pufled part striped with the ruching. A costume of canvas cloth of a warm cinnamon tan which highly commends it- | self to me is described as having a plain | | skirt finished on the bottom with a wire. | | A round bodice entering the skirt has a | | back of canvas cloth, drawn smoothly over | a tight lining, while the front is a blouse | of “mccordion-pleated cerise and green | changeable taffeta and fastens on the side. | Three half-pointed oval bands of canvas | cloth, fitted over the biouse, so as to show the silk in spaces between, are sewed into the bodice seams on the right and hook across to the opposite side. On the upper end of each band, close to the bodice, six smali pearl buttons are sewed close to- gether, for ornament. Gigot sleeves/long In the arm of canvas cloth with a small crescent cut out of the mate- rial of the wupper arm, near the waist, showing a bit of the silk under- neath. At the end, near the seam, there is a finish of three smail pearl buttons. The pointed canvas girdle has a row of six small buttons on each side, in front. The choker is of canvas cloth, a wide band with two square tabs twining over and un- der the ear, where the band ends, and is finishea with an upright row of five but- tons. Fine white silk cord laces these but- tons together over a white batiste and lace bow, formed of two plisse fans, edged with lace. These tabs are covered with batiste, edged with narrow lace. Batiste and lace cuffs to match finish the wrists of sleeve. Vogue advises an ivy-green straw hat, trimmed with scaris of gauze, one of brown and one of a lighter shade of tan. A lovely la France rose is to ‘‘upstand above this bow with foliage.” Tan suede glove and a parasol of taffeta silk of two shades of green complete one of the most artistic and charming toilettes imaginable for a stylish young woman. At most of the large balls given this sea- son in Paris the dresses have had low bod- ices held up with shoulder straps of dia- monds, flowers, spangled galore, or ribbon bows. Balloon sleeves appear to have been given up for such oceasions, being re- placed with cascades of jet falling from the shoulder-straps or loops of satin rib- bon falling on the arms. The skirts are cut round and have godets at the back. Flowers are much nsed on evening confec- tions and are gracefully arranged round the low neck, as shoulder straps or bretelles, and also round the bottom of skirts, they are put on straight or fes- tooned, or a spray may start from a bow and extend down the sides of the tablier and fall artistically on to the hem of the skirt. Pompadour silks and satins are being used by Felix for ball and evening toilettes, and for bodices he frequently utilizes tulle or velvet, and almost without exception they are made pointed. The dressmakers may prevail on us to let them trim the skirts of our evening dresses, but they will not succeed yet awhile in persuading us to have our street and calling dress skirts adorned (?), as our leaders of fashion have pronounced ideas of their own, and are as independent as their forefathers, and, as one writer says, ‘It is becoming somewhat difficult to predict what the American woman will accept in the way of styles,” as she fully realizes that she "has quite as much taste as her Parisian sister, although as yet I doubt if she can utilize every scrap of lace and every bit of silk with quite as good results, but we are not dependent on the French any longer for our fashions—the New York women set the styles in this country. I have just read an article which states that *‘great dressmak- ersare great personagesin Paris and are recognized as having great talent. The press extols them and discusses their crea- tions,” but in this country no such fuss is made over them and our press does not constantly relate their triumphs. How- ever, it is dawning on most people that our ideas and conceptions are excellent and worthy of imitation; indeed, many of them have been adopteé in England, and in no country are the children so beauti- fully ana ‘appropriately garbed as in America. Immense spreading collars, a 1a Medicis, are being tried experimentally, but I doubt that they wiil be avornbelg' received. The general effect aimed at this summer will be puffv and voluminous, especially with the capes in light materials covered with ribbon, sequins, laces, frilis and rather too heavy. They will be worn with flounces, ruches and lowers, and no spring PARISIAN EVENING GOWN. toilette can be considered complete with- out one of the delightful short mantles which are enjoying such great popularity. One I greatly admired is of black velvet with gores of white satin, with an ap- plique of white lace flowers traced with jet and steel. A white satin lining peeps be- neath the hem of this, elaborately irilled with white silk-edged chiffon. Another little mantle has a yoke and vest cut in one, and tight-fitting, of green miroir velvet, and beneath a ruche of black satin ribbon is gathered a cape of glace silk cov- ered with black lace, embroidered in many colors with tambour stitch, interspersed with flowers formed of narrow ribbons. This mantle is of an especially good shape, pointing as it does over the elbows. A novel material is used in the composi- tion of one of the latest spring cloaks, which extends to the hem of the dress. The material is named ‘“‘chine brocatelle,” and is inmany colors on a black ground. The yoke jis of mulberry-hued velvet, over which there 1s a chine flowery design traced with jet and colored beads. A vel- vet collar turns down at the neck and dis- vlays a facing of guipure embroidery. A chic coat of glace silk, shot with green, dark red and dull gold, is accordion pleated, with epaulettes of gold threaa traced with jet and outlined with a silk- edged kilted frill of black chiffon. Slender women who are fond of close- fitting gowns will do well to consider one of brown face cloth, which has a bodice of brown velvet relieved by an open waist- coat composed of white cloth embroidered in shades of violet. A hat of a darker shade of brown in a fancy straw should be trimmed with scarfs of creamy white and light brown tulle. Fiags in two shades of violet give the necessary color. Face cloth, or a lightweight Melton cloih in any of the new shades will make a stylish gown with a sacquelike coat with simple black satin bands and tabs. A smart tailor gown is of a finegreen Melton, which is run with a tiny under thread of white. It hasa triple collar, and turned- back cuffs are of white cloth, covered with an applique design in green silks. For a young girl a very simple and styl- ish gown is of a fine, soft, gray cloth, tailor made, over a changeable silk, with a waist- coat of drab cloth embroidered in small blue or red figures. This costume will be useful on so many occasions that it pays to have it made by the best tailor in the city of the finest goods. Dark blue or brown cloth would be also stylish, but neither of these colors is so youthful or becoming as gray, provided the maiden has a clear skin and a good color; besices, dark shades look very untidy if in the least dusty. Now we all feel a keen interest once more in evening toilettes, so I am sure we will like to hear how one of light lavender satin was made. The back breadth was ilt-pleated, and over its entire length fell kilt-pleated tulle, scarfs of the same drap- ing it from the back to the side breadth. The low bodice of lavender satin had a deep ruche of chiffon, embroiaered in tiny beads in a design of wistaria. The sleeves were of the satin covered with the kilted tuile, and consisted of a long puff which started from the shoulders and covered the point of the elbow. They were fin- ished with a twist of pearl white satin ribbon, over which was a wistaria vine, This ended in a small bow. A large and remarkably pretty bow of this with long wide ends adornad the back of the waist and fell to within two or three inches of the bottom of the skirt. Felix has just completed a very satis- factory frock. The skirt is of g_ink moire fauconnee, striped with blue. The blouse waist is low and has a full round basque flounce in pink silk muslin. The sleeves are double bouillonne. The pink muslin is seen through the opening of the corselet, which has deep-pointed fronts fastened with graduated bows in blue satin. Bows also appear on each shoulder. One of Worth's latest would suit a bride very nicely, although there is nothing espe- cially new in the style. The skirt is as usual godeted; it is of white tulle over a foundation of white satin, and is trimmed with two sets of fire rows of satin ribbon. The tablier drapery is looped up on either side « ith a tuft and trail of roses. The same flowers adorn the low-pointed bodice and rest on the left reveres in the soft folds of the tulle, which is also used for a baretta and for the short sleeves, *‘a mass of diaphanous flutings.”” On the should- ers 2re loops of the satin ribbon. Speaking of simple summer dresses for young girls, I have seen as good results produced by having_for mulls, organdies, etc,, a well-fitted silk foundation. The waist must be most carefully fitted and lined, and the skirt should have several ruffles of silk and laces, one of which should be wired, as though each dress was made over its own lining, which would be very expensive. There 18 no reason why one’s maid should not tack the thin dresses to the silk slips in such a way that they would set perfectly. It is well to have several silk shirts and waists of be- coming shades, if you expect to spend your summer, or even a few weeks, at any fashionable resort, 2s you will want to be «.?oé and comfortable, as well as correctly clad. A creation for a matron is composed of a s6ft gray miroir satin, with a black velvet for trimmings, over which are bands of Honiton insertion. These bands begin on the shoulders and are carried down the fronts, and finish with a bow, which is placed slightly below tLe waist fine. The skirt is full and absolutely plain, and with a shot violet silk. For a young girl in _light mourning isa costume of black and white striped glace silk, the skirt, as usual, plain, full and well hung. The low cut bodice has a garniture of a deep black lace bertha, heavily sequined in pearls and silver. This is caught up in the front and falls artistically over the short puff sleeves. Another toilette is an exquisite Ching silk, shot with pink and chartreuse green. Sequined net and puffings of pink chiffon beautify the corsage. The sleeves are shnged like fans and have some of the chiffon disposed under the pleats of the silk. Echarpes of the same ornament the skirt. Some of the most admired gowns for bridesmaids, which will be worn ere long, are of white satin, lined with pink glace: With these gowns will be seen rose pink chiffon fichus, and great picture hats of white straw, trimmea with clusters of la France roses; tiie same roses wiil form the bouquets. When Mrs. Astor’s grandniece, Miss Ethel Kingslana, is married this week the pathway to the altar will be strewn with roses by two maids of honor, who will be attired iz true Marie Antoinette costumes, and will wear the hats in vogue at that period. So many of the old Sout'ern homes have fallen into decay that it reads like a page of an old romance, the description of the wedding which took place about two weeks ago at Buckland, the picturesque and spacious manor of Dr. Richard C. Smith of Gates County, North Carolina. In this o!/d home is a_historical Colonial staircase, and as a writer in Vanity says: ‘A subject for a superb picture was formed ‘when, to the strains of Men- delssohn's march, the beautiful bride de- scended the famous Colonial staircase, preceded by a dainty little girl scattering flowers, while the “old colored mammy, who has been in the family forty years, carried the long court train, her head aloft with dignity and pride, increased by the joy of wearing a rich red silk turban. It was a typicaf Southern country wed- ding, and Southern hospitality was dis- pensed generously and luxuriously.” Next autumn in New York a series of dances will be given called the Roger de Coverly dances. Among the patronesses | are several well-known society women. I| should think such a series would be popu- | lar out here, at all events the idea is worthy of consideration. Mrs. Hearst has been entertaining on a large scale in Washington and has just iven two musicales, at both of which gime. Nordica sang most charmingly, so it is reported Mrs. Hearst has taken a great fancy to the songstress and has in- vited her to accompany her to California in her privata car,and it seems likely Mme. Nordica will accept the invitation, as she has mining property out West. MARCELLA, ins s g TOR MEN. Mottoes are the rage at present and adorn everything, almost. Cigarette cases have them inscribed upon them, and even our hairbrushes do not escape. Him remarks: “We are to be deluged with loud ana large ties. The end of the club bows are to be very wide and the deepest of dark blue, the most vivid of greens and a great deal of the tartan plaid will be used.” With a_frock coat an Ascot or four-in- hand tie in white is worn for receptions, on other occasions any dark-colored tie, such as an Ascot puff, in some handsome material, or a four-in-hand. A useful svit recently seen was of one of the new checks in a rough bubwn Scotch tweed. A red tic brightened it and a brown Derby completed a good ensemble. In Vogue occurs an excelient remark: ‘A well-bred bachelor entertains, but does not make any very lavish display. This is generally the aim and the trademark of the newly rich and the social struggler.” Stout men should select dark tweed mix- tures for their bicycle suits, but slender men should wear light colors. Colored shirts will be much worn with white collars, and when yachting men will wear flannels or white duck trousers with a black sackcoat. LINES ON AN X-RAY PORTRAIT. She is 80 tall, 50 slender; and her bones— Those frail phosphates,those carbonates of lime— Are well produced by cathode rays sublime, By oscillations, amperes. and by ohms, Her dorsal vertebrze are not concealed By epiderm s, but are well revealed. PRPPRRRRRER Around her ribs, those beauteous twenty-four, Her flesh a halo makes, misty in line, Her noseless, eyeless face looks into mine, And I but whisper, “Sweethesrt, je t'adore.” Her white and gieaming teeth at me do laugh. Ah! lovely, cruel, sweet cathodograph! i ife. NEW TO-DA Any one in San Francisco using this Restorer for Gray Hair or Dan- draff will receive \thelr money in full if they are not satisfied with re- N/ sults, Smmesof = N Creme Given Away. ME. MARCHAND—DEAR MADAM: AT your request I have carefully analyzed your Gray Hair Restorer. In my judgment it is an ef- fective preparation and will not_injure the hair or the general health. 1 can cheerfully recommend 1 to your patrons. Respectfully submitted, W.T. WENZELL, Anaiytical Chemist. | them a hurried answer, and reminded them BAB'S DANTEAN DREAMS, The Sins of Young and Old Pass in Startling Re- : view. HOW TO BE HAPPY ON EASTER “Till Morning’s Joys Shall End the Night of Weeping”"—Read the Rest. NEW YORK, N. Y., March 31.—Good Friday had gone by, the children had been told the meaning of the hot cross- buns, and somebody’s baby had been rapturously kissed because she said, bang- ing her rosy little fist on the table, ‘.‘1 wouldn’t hurt the Good Man, and I'd kill the naughty people who did it.” Then came Saturday, and there was a quiet over all the house as if some one we loved had said good-by to us forever; and yet, there was a hope. Saturday evening found three women meditating—for we belonged to that faith which values, most of all, quietness and meditation, ang which teaches that the greatest sermon is preached by one’s own heart. At last I was left alone. Because the night was chilly there was a bright fire, and as I looked at it I raised my eyes to the clock above it, and saw that it was the eleventh hour of the night. The chime rang out softly as if in the presence of the dead, and 1 fell into my own comfortable chair and looked at the fire; in it seemed to glow in letters of deeper fire and deeper red, “And the sea gave up the dead which were in it; and death and hell delivered up the dead which were in them; and they were judged every man according to his works.” * 5 My heart repeated the last line, ‘“‘Ac- cording to his works.” And then there came over me a greatawe, and I saw all the world standing before the Maker of it 10 be judged. And some trembled and were frightened; and many hoped; and some acted as if they cared for nothing, but as they separated and each went toward the great white throne. alone, to stand before God and be judged according to his works, there came a horror like unto nothing that I can describe. And some one standing near me said, “I am not afraid to be judged before the whole world, but oh! the awfulness of that time, alone with God, with only my sins to face me.” And the man went by me, one whom I had known as_kind-bearted, pleasant and of whom nothing worse was said than that he was his own worst enemy. Some one asked him—could it have been the Judge? —in a rich, beautiful voice, “Where are the gifts that were yours? Where is the great talent that was given unto you? ‘What have you done with that ability to speak and persuade men to do the right? Buried it under the sins of the flesh; killed 1t by gluttony and lust?”’ And the man passed on with drooping head, and I saw him no more. Then came a woman. The world knew her name as a leader in great charitable works. The church knew her name as one ever ready to pray, and of her it was said that she Jed what was called a strict life. And the voice demanded: ‘“Where are the little children 1 put into your arms? I geve them to you—soft, loving and pure; in return they have come to me women hard of beart, full of vanity and despising everything that bears the name of religion. They are ‘men who joy in having no belief, and who count life as of no worth except for the pleasure to be gained from it. Thisis your work. You taught them, not the love, but the vengeance of God, You taught them, not the gentleness but the severity of that Father to whom the: had a right to turn in their hours of sad- ness or gladness. They asked you for motherly love and sympathy; yvou gave of your duties to the outside world. You were eager to save the souls of the heathen in far off lands, ana you gave no thought to those young creatures who had been put in your charge. You lived a NEW TO-DAY. ;’iiiii?iiii?i)i iiii‘i: % Special Saving Sale 3000 SAMPLES iFINE CHINA & Consisting of Fine Decorated w ® Plates, Cups and Saucers, ¥ g Salad Bowls, Pitchers, Fancy » Dishes, Etc., sent us by Euro- & pean manufacturers to order ¢ # by. There'sbut one piece ofa ¢ # kind, and they occupy an im- @ # mense amount of valuable & space, which we need badly. Out they go at just one-halif, and even one-quarter, the # regular price. This offer holds & good until all are sold. Better & come quickly, though; won’t @ 3 b - EEL L L T LA L L s PP Ll ¥ g last long at such prices. 3 y — - & THAT BIG CHINA STORE— ¥ i A Quarter of a Block Below Shreve's. W WANGENHEIN, STERNHEIM & 00, 3 % 528 and 530 Market St., = % 27 and 29 Sutter St., = » BELOW MONTGOMERY, - * Rttt ii?iii?iz FREUD'S CORSET HOUSE. Every Ladv Can Have a Lovely Form by Wearing FREUD’S CORSETS. Genuine Jenness Miller Model Bodice, Equipoise Waists. PATENT “GOOD SENSE” CORSET WATS GENUINE JACKSON, FAVORITE WAI’:‘ e ALL KINDS OF CORSETS. ABDOMINAL AND HEALTH SINADV ATOS WE KEEP AHIL WOA ‘w0 Y 11038 OU3 PUT WO 1801 w1938 o) 105 *BA) oxjduigy Our Illustrated Catalogue seut free to any address. Depilatory for the removal of Superfluous Hair, Wrinkleine Paste, a sclentific skin food. Creme- de-la-Crene, to beautify the complexion. Are in- dorsed by ail leading gbhyilclnns and received di- plomas at Mechanics’ Fair for superior merit. MME. MARCHAND, Halr and Complexion Specialist, 28 GEARY STREET, Mail orders receive prompt attention. ‘We have no branch store on Market street. MAKE NO MISTAKE IN OUR ADDRESS M. FREUD o« SO0, 743-744 Narket St, and 10-12 Grant Ave, | Bra wicked life, you were an unkind mother, an unloving wife, and I see no page in the book'of your lif- that can make the judg- ment waiting for you n"f, less severe than it is.”” And this woman looked around for her children, but they were strangersto her. And she looked for the societies over which she had presided, but there were none. Every man was trying to care for his own soul, knowing that he would be judged according to his works. And there was another. Oneof whom the world had said that harm was not in him. But he was reprimanaed for indo- lence, for lack of thought and reminded that at ease with himself he never allowed himself to be troubled about the sorrow of any @ne else. Taen I looked at the skies above me and they were blackest over those men who. had wronged women and little children, over those women who had been hard of heart and cold of speech, but they were also dark over those who had wronged the weak and hurt the dumb animals who couldn’t speak, and yet who were so loyal, And some claimed that they only had little sins. The little sins collected together seemed to make a huge black bail ready to strike them and send them into darkness. An- other woman I.knew went by me and caught my skirt, saying she was so afraid. And the Voice said to her, ‘‘You thought of nothing while living but that which made you more attractive in the eyes of the world. Here your jewels and your velvets and your silks do not hide the black heart that they cover. The little pink tongue that shows .becwegu those = deceitful lips has ‘liar’ writ- ten upon_it, and the white hands are marked ‘dishonest,” for instead of using your beauty for some great pnrpose you made fools of men with it. You stole away their brains and made them misuse the talents that came to them from heaven.”” And as she went away some- thing awesome came about. Under her beautiful clothes could be seen her body, and on it burned in letters of fire the sins of which she had been rightfully accused. All at once everybody disappeared. But where men and women had been [saw troops and troops of little children hurry- ing as fact as they could, the tiniestones tumbling over each other in their eager- ness to get ahead. And I stopped one and asked her what it all meant; and in the voice of a child that I knew, of a child who had gone to sieep long ago, she answered : ““We are the little children going to plea: for our mothers.” And the Voice said: ““There ara women wicked enough to kill their unborn babies, and yet these chil- dren are, so many tin.es, their salvation. Baby hands have led many a woman in the way she should go.and to a woman whose heart is loving even a dead baby means much, for it is one who kneels at the throne and never ceases to pray.’” It is a wonderful story this of the resur- rection of the dead—none the less wonder- ful because it is true. Isn’t it beautiful that we women can think that the last to give a tender thought to the Christ Man were women—the mother who bore him, and the woman who had sinned and been forgiven. And it is more beautiful to think that they were the first to hear the wonderful news that he had risen from the dead, and become the first fruits of them that slept. God bless everybody on Easter morning! God give them a happy day and make the year to come a better one—better, because in it there may be buried those sins that seem so little,” and that means so much. Again, I say, God bless everybody on Easter morning! All that I can remem- ber; all that is imprinting itself on my mind, are the last lines of the Easter bhymn: Till morning’s joy sball end the night of weeping, And life’s long shadows break in cloudless love. A dream? Yes. But I believe in dreams; and it seems to me that special one came to teach some of us to live, that when we die and have to spend those few minutes alone with God, though we may be afraid, still we need notfear that we will be judged too harshly, for in the verdict there will be considered the temptations and the en- vironments as well as the prayers of the little children, who are pleading for their mothers. [ believe it. ve that the dream was meant as a lesson to you and your neighbor, and Bas. NEW TO-DAY. SOLE AGENTS FOR THE MAGGIONI KID GLOVES. Black - Silks! Atlower prices than we have ever sold similar goods. THIS WEEK We will offer anh Immense pur- chase of Silks at about one-half the regular price. WE BOUGHT CHEAP And shall give the benefit to our customers. THE PURCHASE COMPRISES 3000 YARDS Black Brocaded Silks In entirely new and choice designs. THE PRICE 75 Cents per Yard SALE OF RIBBONS! DRESDEN AND SATIN AND GROS-GRAIN. No. 22, 3 inches wide, all Silk, Satin and Gros-Grain Ribbons, in all colors, including black, at. 7 znc "Per Yard No. 40, 33{ inches wide, all Silk Dres- den Ribbons, in latest designs, suitable for dress, millinery, floral and decorative purposes, at.,...... . Per Yard 5 inches wide, Fancy Silk Dresden Ribbons, entirely new for milli-4 nery and neckwear, at, Per Yard These goods will well repay inspection. JUST OPENED! NEW VEILINGS. NEW NECKWEAR. NEW PARASOLS. NEW BELTS. MAIL ORDERS PROMPTLY FILLED NEWNAN & LEVINSON, 125, 12%, 129, 131 Kearny Bt. n ch Store 742 and 744 Market St.