The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 1, 1896, Page 26

26 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, ring if some- will remember mi-carene ve a dance or some un- usually pleasant party. As yet has been announced, but no such an evern we live in hops i Some pretty lunches and dinners have ven this week, and not a few card beent parties on a small scale. I believe that Paderewski and his friend v rrival is bei and Miss Carrie Duke in this City who are ovation to: Two Easter brides | preparing the most aux, but as yet they | The H.-H. wedding is nt of the st, but the bride and groom are expected to arrive here soon, | and we may be sure that their numerous friends and relatives will give them a warm weicome home. | een reading about furs, velvais | ng costumes until I am quite | E rin this climate at this time of e year we are more rested in lighter ries, which subjects of e al in- to those who are going southward The fete at Santa not on: view ould a which w soon be of- seaded waist | y carried out on in man y be accordion-pleated. sring will u ob- As Th Jme hape. I and there i the hips in the basque ¢ fullness, 1 neck in marked darker velvet vest. It is ecoming to the slope of the is a thoroughly practi t large from he elbow, whence th fit This design ee t to 1 closely to the wrist. i from Redfern. geranium color, which v names y either in moire (4 beautiful material and one rap- asing in favor) or in velvet or especially when intermixed with white satin'lace and sable. Basques are- increasing in length f both evening and morning wear. A fetch- own for a young bride isin vhite mircir poplin, trimmed with pearl embroide i-wreathed with roses. v i atomato tint is said to be be- nd will ‘be worn by those whose can stand it. Low bodices off tlie-shoulders continue to be the fash- | ion. | led the *“Pliante” has recently ted, which is said to keep the | zodet pleats of our skirts in their | B s preserving their graceful nes dind ing them from falling inward t rd our heels, As I have not yet- seen the Plhiante I must quote the de- scription: . “‘The. fittings are adjusted in some es to a skirt of black silk made With coresand trimmed around tiie bottom | with-a full ruffie, which stands out, owing to a.tow of fetherbone, which is phable and cannot break.- In the back breadths there is an arrangement of thin steel rib- bons, which dre adjusted by elastic straps to which buckles are attached. As a rule there are three ribbons in the upper and | three in the lower part of the pett ( The lower ones are longer, of course, and when they are strappeg together form | natural godets which hever lose thexr‘ There is very littie weight to this ement, and the ribbons can be re- ‘ | | { or adjusted tachments for this skirt are to be had sep- arately and can be put in any skirt. It is said to be an economical arrangement ich will give an air of stvle to any well- cat skirt, and if all that is said about it is true no summer outfit will be complete without one or two such skirts. The most artistic gowns at present are | being modeled after the fashions of the | Louis XV vperiod, so we shall see many | long-pointed waists, narrow sleeves, with | lace at the elbows and wrist. The sl tendency to the paners is noticed. blouse has been superseded by the bodice and is worn: with a skirt, made plainly of satin. It may be either biack or colored, and is more a la Louis X XV. Striped and flowered s effectively, as we ail know. are large and open over a chemisette pleated lace or tulle. The back is cut like a shot jacket, the front being compieted at the waist with a fola of veivet of a corre- sponding "shade, the same as that em- ployed at the throat. The collar isin- variably of the moditied Medici shape, flaring out from the back of the neck. ’ljl\e inside of the collar must be covered with fine lace, and this falle on either side of the revers upon the chemisette in jabots. Before continuing about our frocks, a few wo:ds about bats and bonnets, although to be sure but few of vs will in- The | vest in new ones for several weeks, and | one of our first purchases will be a sailor hat, and we may rest assured that some especially pretty changes will be seen in this sensible and useful style. Paul Virot is sending out numberless models. One of his latest is a three- cornered hat, the brim turning upward, ANY of the belles, buds and | With but littie trimming excepting a hand- She is a bright and | s | waistcoast. f | rect. | some bird with dark blue metallic plum- | age and outspread wings; he appears to have alighted on one side. Tulle will be used extensively, and a | ruche of it surrounds a pretty toque,which | bas a low pointed crown and rosettes of | the same tulle on either side, trimmed en- | tirely with ivy and turquoise, a Frenchy combimation of Virot's. Hats promise to remain large; a model | black chip has a low flat crown, liberally trimmed with sequins. A large aigrette is |in front. One of the stvies that undoubt- y will be received with favor :s the peline.”” It hasaflat crown and flat | brim, which extends all around, but the | trimmings give the nece: height. | Chine ribbons are being liberally used as ws and loops. One particularly good hat a brown tone is said to positive | dozens of loops of chine ribbon; these | form a simply enormous bow, which comes between the waved brim and the Satin cord like rouleaux are new, are introduced on tulle and as ruches ges to _toques, mingling often with rich red and rosettes of tulle and steel embroidery.” Some of the bonnets show a tendency to return to the close-fitting Empir le. Jet fringes are looped over the face from the edge of the brim of such bennets, and tulle strings are tied under the chin. Tulle string, edged with | butter lace, it will be seen, as well as | hose of chine ribbon for strings, are to | return. An authority on millinery says: The most beautiful toliage, often shot and most curiously colored, appears at the back of bonnets and grettes both to hats and bonnets, w many of the feather and ospre diamonc ornaments. distinct points, not at wide, in all colors, form the founda for many s and bonnets, and a mad; -red shade of tk the fashionable moire ribbon, of two tones, made in silk, e sort of butterfly bow at the back the brim. be the game this year, we bows As golfis to shall shor hear discussed , holes, tees, haza pproach shots, cl hots, | a well-loafted mashee, a brassie and iron | and a perfect drive, so, g , at once | beginto study the game, for ere long I expect that the links and holes at the Presidio will be in a good condition, and us this fascinating game increases in popu- 1 pect to hear of linksat ame and Berkeley. As far as golf costumes are concerned they are varied, but at this time of the year brown linen or’ r skirts will give gocd skirt must not exte worn. A siylish wom a golfing costume cor ng of a dark-blue skirt, white shirt, black shoes, tan lezgings, | a dark blue necktie tied 1n a bow and a white sailor hat with a ribbon matching her tie. Her belt was of white kid. Nor- ets are much worn also, but are too warm for comfort in this climate. One is very chic, made of bright red cloth, black collar and cuffs and gilt but- nd buckle. A swell cape is com- d of brown cloth lined with a bright 1 Skires of covert cloth can be worn. The belts are always of kid or_leather. A | knitted jerscy goes well with a covert cloth skirt, a red and black one being ei- | fecti | Not only is golf a very healthful game, | but it is also said to greatly improve the iigure, which is a strong recommendation for most women. The bicycle will continue in vogue and women who wish to be arvpropriately' turned out will dress simply and quietly 1 wore last autumn GRAY GOWN FOR EARLY SPRING WEAR. great deal more attention paid to harmony of color between the machine dnd the rid- er's outfit. Shades of gray will be popular, as they show neither mud nor dust, as all the darker colors do. White and cream white is very smart. The lovely fabrics now being displayed in our stores are tempting enough to make us all do wildly extravagant thin so let me advise you to pause and reflect, for we certainly (unless wealthy and extrava- gant) must carefully consider first, what can be done with last summer’s gowns, and secondly, to what uses can we put our dainty, pretty evening frocks, which have done such good and faithful service all winter. Last June’s finery can, with a few alterations, do duty again, and our favorite ball and dinner costumes will re- turn from the cleaner’s and dyer’s all | ready for the addition of frills, flounces | and fichues of lace, mull, net or chif- fon. A great belle, who reigned not long ago. at the White Sulphur Springs, in Virginia, confessed to a friend A DAINTY PRETTY GOWN. i tweeds, cloths or serges made in a severely plain and business-like manner. Narrow skirts reaching only to the ankle | are the best, and the ‘‘coat bodices,” which are cut long enough to touch the saddle, | are the best. Some are worn with shirt waists and some with waistcoats, and | others with a combination of shirt and i Stiff coliars and ties are cor- Neat felt hats or Tam o'Shanters | cover many pretty heads, and well-fitting | shoes and gaitersshould complete such cos- tumes; however, the garments donned by some women who disfigure a wheel are fearfully and wonderfully contrived. Even the most attractive of women are at their worst when wheeling, and unsuit- able clotning makes many positively ridic- ulous and repuisive. In the park I have seen costumes that I could not understand any sane woman wearing. . Why, some were—well, why go into details; most of you have seen the marvelously costumed | women that frequently assemble in our | beautiful park, and have made your own criticisms. But, in concluding this sub- ject, let me repeat that hats with flowers, silk waists adorned with lace, etc., are quite as much out of place on a bicycle as on horseback. that her allowance would barely pay for two summer gowns from Donavan or Con- nelly, but by careful management she could every season tike two dozen gowns with her to the springs, one dozen being made-overs. Of course this bright maiden was herseif a clever designer and a needle- woman of ability and so was able to guide and direct 1nto proper channels the abili- tiesof an expert little dressmaker. I know two sisters in Oakland wno are invariably well cowned; indeed their dresses have an indescribable cachet, which has made several of therr friends sufficiently bold to inquire what dressmak-r they patronized. The reply is invariably the same: *Oh, we have a French woman come and sew by the day, but we could not really recommend her, she makes such awful mistakes.” Then the; change the subjeci and leave us mystified, for we are dying to secure that woman mistakes and all, as the results are so ex- cellent, for we feel as thougn we could achieve wonders could we but capture her. The trouble is that just as soon dress- maker is competent she starts for herself, 80 we cannot overappreciate the clever needle-woman who will sew by the day; but I am far from discouraging home During the coming season we will see a dressmaking, as I have seen too many de- lightful gowns to do anyching of the sort, for skillful fingers and a quick apprecia- tion of beautiful outlines nng combinations will produce results that cannot be rivaled. Socially for many of us there isa lull, and as much c¢f our pleasure may depend on a proper supply of frocks we cannot too soon_begin investigating our wardrobes, for in California our season of bright, warm days is a long one. Every year our girls are dressing with more taste, al- though, to be sure, even the most admired and best gowued of our belles cannot be said to prepare as elaborate or as exten- sive outfits for the summer as their Eastern sisters, who, for example, wore last summer at Newport gowns of the richest faille, simply but exquisitely made, for afternoon toilets. I hear that many are weary of serge yachting dresses and intend to have alpaca instead. I can only say they will probably regret the change of fabric. Such costumes have a blouse- coat with a collar of the best white taffeta fancifully cut. These are belted with gola ribbon. Some will continue to wear white duck, which is to be had this year in the finest of qualities, which_compare favorably with Irish linen. Be sure to have the duck shrunk at home befofe making it up. White leather belts will be seen with such dresses, and they are to be made with a belted coat, which must droop over the belt all around. All the seams are strapped, but the collar and revers are simply stitched. . With white serge, alpaca and duck gowns areto be worn separate waists of Japanese silk of natural colors and de- signs. They are made up very full in ac- cordion pleating, with a stock ‘and cuffs of white satin ribbons., Persian crepes will be used for the same parpose in soft light shades. A touch of gold will be one of the novelties of the season, for we are to have gold belts, gold insertions, gold lace, and all the silver buckles are being washed with gold. Bishop sleeves will be cross barred with insertion in all cases where it appears on the waist. Summer skirts will not measure over six yards and will flare about the feet. Many are not to measure over five. The blouse coat will be the thing this season. It is a loose affair with but few seams, usually only those under the arms, unless a large bust compeis darts in front. It extends to about four inches below the beit and is drawn in shape by the belt. The front is ornamented by shawl reveres and the collar turns down widely. The sleeves may be either gigot or bishop. The fichu is to be a favored accompani- ment of ‘not only evening, but day gowns as well, and the corselet will be in vogue. For evening wear, infinitesimally dotted muslins, fine nets, Russian nets and em- broidered mousseiines de soie will be in great demand. Black Russian net is used effectively on a black evening toilet, as it forms beautiful transparent sleeves. It iy alxo used with whitesilk. Embroideries of tne richest description are to be used. Emeralds, being popular, are seen in combination with jet and gold thread as an insertion on Paris gowns from celebrated houses. A sweet-faced belle is having a deligkt- fully pretty gown made at home. The skirt is of a_pretty torquoise blue French silk crepon, which looks like accordign pleating.- Itis made overa plain taffeta silk of the same shade. The waist is lined with the silk, completely covered in front with white silk, which in turn 18 covered with fluffy white chiffon, layers upon lavers, which produces a cloudy effect. The back and sleeves are of the crepon. Around the waist is a narrow white satin ribbon, which terminates in a small chow in front. Extending down the middle of SUNDAY, MARCH 1, 1896. A CHIC EVENING BODICE. the white front is a single row of two-inch- wide gold insertion. A dear bit of a chapeau of a darker but perfectly har- monious shade of blue has a quilling of chiffon around it and a great white aigrette at one side., I am really sorry to announce the fact, but our balloon sleeves are to go and the moderately close style will be shortly correct, so wait for the latest news from Paris before having your sleeves cut. All full-dress skirts are finished with double and triple ruchings of satin, three or four rows being laced one above the other, shading or mixing the colors to suit the gown material. They made a dainty and effective finish and keep the shirts wellout. It seems almost an impossibility that this season the gowns are to be more ethereal and charming than those of last year, yet I predict that they are to be more beautiful than ever. What delight- ful surprises Paris has in store for us can only be vaguely imagined, and as you may obseg‘ve I have only been advocating the making of simple frocks during the next 8ix weeks, for not until Lent is over shall we see the gowns which will, of course, be too sweet for anything, and the most be- witching of hats and bonnets will figure in our happiest dreams. So strong is the hold of the fancy bodice that although it has been laughed to scorn by many of the best dressmakers and declared to be entirely out of style still it flourishes, but those who desire to be in swle will no longer indulge in startling contrasts, for tbe skirt and waist show a tendency to “tone in.” A white and maize striped bodice lately worn was noticeable on account of its sleeves, which were apparently long, square ruffles, very full, falling from the shoulders to the eibows. Vogue gives an account of a club well worth our consideration, so I will quote: ‘A novel form of club, and one that prom- ises to be in much favor during the com- ing Lenten season, is the so-called Lunch- eon Club. Eight or ten women agree to read certain works of modern fiction, and further agree to discuss them at a series of luncheons given by the members of the club on any day of the week chosen for the meetings. It is a good way of making one’s self thorougblv acquainted with some good books, and, provided the works are fitly chosen, they make pleasant topics of discussion. The luncheons are limited in length, and the introduction of topics foreizn to the novel under discus- sion is strictly forbidden.” At the reception given by President and Mrs. Cleveland to the officers of the army and navy Mrs. Cleveland is reported by all who saw her to have been ‘‘radiantly beantiful.” Her gown was of white flow- ered silk, combined with pink velvet. Her diamonds were excellent, but best of all was her bright, happy smile, which never faded, even after being grasped by the hand by over a thousand guests, which, to say the least, must he a wearisome per- formance; and to most she made some happy remark, and to all questionsreplied with much tact. The east room must have been a beauti- ful sight, the decorations being stars and anchors, wrought in flowers and li(fhts, the anchors being in red blossoms and the stars were produced b§ electric lights— red, white and blue ones—and some one who was present writes: Beyond this room the night was turned into summer, not on a limited scale, but, so great is the space and so profuse the abundance, that if one lingered he wonld forizet that there was ever winter, hyacinths nodding their perfumed greeting, almost as thickly strewn as spears of grass; orchids, far thicker than pitcher plants in summer; liles and roses of the most delicious fra- grance, as well as innumerable blossoms of less bounteous deticacy; vines fit to earland fairies’ dresses, foliage plants in thickets of charming arrangement in form and shading, and, towering above all, the majestic grace of the great palm trees. All' around the exclamation was freely tossed about, ““‘Was ever anything more beautiful, and did you ever see the White House as fascinating as it is to-night ?”’ A well-known English journal states that this 1s the favorite pick-me-up of American society women nowadays. The yolks of two eggs, with a teaspoonful of vinegar, a pinch of pepper and a half-tea- NEW TO-DAY. YOUR FRER CHOICE THIS «° e WEEK » % One_Wonderful lalicaiion To restore your gray or faded halr to_its natural color. This is done with my famous FOUR-DAY HAIR RESTORER that fs banishing gray hair from the world. Only $1 per bottle, or id One Electrical Facial Ha:snza treatment to restore faded faceg to youthfal neas. to amooth wrinkled complexions, o maie your beauty the envy of your social world, or trial box of the world celebrated ety Lola Montez Creme the skin f0od and tissue builder that makes thou- sands of ladies bappy because It protects them against dire ravages of time and climate and kecps them in their proud position as the best- looking ladies where " they live. large jur. LADIES OUT OF TOWN should send me full particulars of their case. All sending 10c in stamps will gec book of instructions, trisl pox of LOLA MONTEZ CREME, FACE POWDER fre SUPERFLUOUS HAIR Costs 75¢ for Be sure you buy the genuine. I am the only « one who can ai- Ways guarantee permanent removal of this distressing blemish. MRS, NETIE HARRISON DERMATOLOGIST, 40 and 42 Geary St., San Francisco, Cal, spoonful of Worcester sauce poured over. he yolks are swallowed whole. What a valuable piece of information. The name should be changed to ‘“a lay-me-out- quickly,” for the thought of swallowing those two yolks whole is quite enough for me, It is amusing to read that when Queen Victoria and all members of her family are away from Buckingham Palace, the servants are put upon ‘‘board wage: 5 House parties are to be quite the thing from this time on, and 1 hear of sgvem[ hospitable country homes that will be shortly thronged with city guests, for never is the country so beautiful asin the early spring, and what delightful flirta- tions take place under such circumstances. MARCELLA. FOR MEN. Many of our bicycle riders look very smart in their knickerbockers, long Scotch stockings, Norfolk jackets and peaked caps. For evening wear our ties must be of fine hue, one and a half inches wide, The butterfly tie is a style long passed. The style in evening dress is slowly but surely changing, for many pleated and ruffled shirts have been worn this winter in New York, and what is more they have been considered smart, and white silk waistcoats have been worn in even larger numbers. Iheard an Eastern man last week re- marking with much amusement on the number of men out here who still insist atchebains, for New Yorkers have long since bamished chains and rings. In his last article Him informs us that “already the haberdashers are arranging for the spring, and they are filing many orders for the most vivid pink and blue shirts in a species of satin-finished linen, which is effective in their show-windows. but tomy mind a bit valgar. Not only are pinks ana blues in voeue, but there are also exhibited the most vivid and startling greens and yellows. Very few men can wear, even should they wish, a grass or pea-green shirt, and fewer yet of us can stand yellow. The satin finish, however, is shown in some very picturesque browns, striped and figured, and some quite elaboe rate pompadour effects. The collars are white, attached, of course, and are either of the almost straight around stand-up about three inches in height, or tie stil] vopular all-around turndown. Thus we are on the road to revolution in dress, [ only hope that we will not make mounte- banks of ourselves.” Just fancy any of our well-known beaux appearing downtown in a pea-green shirg or in one of sulphurous hu {e cer- tainly would create a mild sensation; nyt although such hideous colors may be seen at summer resorts it is safe to say that they will never be fayorites with the smart set, which is more than ever conservative in ali such matters this year. Maurel, the operatic artist, is exceed- ingly fond of colored linen, appearing con- stantly in the most startling blues and pink. He will doubtless revel in green and yellow shortly. An Eastern journal announces that “hot champagne’” 1is the latest London fad. The champagne is not really heated, but is not iced. Lately a Chicago man, dining at the Waldorf, complained that the cham- pagne was not sufficiently warm, and directed that the bottle should be stood in hot water. Tcan imagine the ghastly re- sult, having no desire to try it. c.cC. LOVE AND SPRING. Love's clear eves shone with pride; ‘He laid his bow aside, Flung wide the arrows from their sheath, As joyously he spied beneath ‘Tue dancing bough on which he swung Bright pearls upon the violets hung ‘That blossomed sweet Beneath his feet. Spring from her bough above Looked laughing down on Love, ‘And chid him for & wanton boy, Because of such au idle toy. He laid aside those piercing darts Wherewith to vanguish human hearts, To deck his curls With gleaming pearls. “Nay! Know ve not. O Spring, This is no childish thing. But precious as your smiles to me These shining jewels that you see. Rich trophy now before us lies— Bright tears which fall from lovers’ eyea When in their heart They feel my dart. Chide not! Come. play with these Instead.” But, when he looked for answer, Spring had fled. —Pall Mall Gazette. MApAME ALMA E. KEITE announces the spring opening of fine French and New York hats and bonnets with_display of all that is new in millinery novelties on Thursday, Fri- day and Saturdsy, March 5,6 and7,at the two fine stores, 808 .Market street and 24 Kearny street. Successor to P. F. Butler, — e Fashion plates came in use during the last quarter of the eighteenth century. NEW TO-DAY. Special Saving Sale. | CHINA! Four splen- did bargains o ~ in Fine Thin 3. China, hand- somely deco- rated. Pret- ¢ty Salad or 4 Fruit Dishes =7 at 45 and 60 cents ; our $1.50 Cake or 5 Cold Meat _~= Dishes at 85 cents and our $1.50 Pre- serve or Sauce Plates at 75 cents per set of six. Monday, Tuesday and Wed- nesday only. % THAT BIG CHINA STORE— A Quarter of a Block Below Shreve's. WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIN & CO., 528 and 530 Market St., 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY. pososseesssst LDENRY Bt Corset— TRY ONE OF CUR PERFECT FITTING Rand G P. N. P. D. tCorsets or A-BUTTON “Nitrami” GLOVES! REAL KID. SPECIAL REDUCTIONS. Real Kid, all shades, reduced 8-Button Length Real e} 50‘"’ fdl o Suede, all shades, reduce Stom Tensth Coe from $1 50 to $1 15 irom $1 00 to 50c ans, rom Hosiery s All of our BLACK HOSE are HERMSDORF DYE teed not to crock. The line fi"go%rfgrn in all shades and at POPULAR PRICES. 4-Button Suede, reduc 4-Button Derby Kid, reduced #$1 00 to 75¢ 718.Market.St (YRR 13 MONDAY, March 3. ADDITIONAL NOVELTIES —XN— LYONS SILKS! Decidedly the largest line of Ele= gant Novelties ever shown in this city. Ric_h@l’;l;lck Silks, Which show the very latest de- signs in Imported Damas. Also, complete lines of the more Staple Weaves, including FAILLE DESIREE, CUIR ROYAL, DUCHESSE, MOIRE VELOUTE, POULT ARD PEAU DE SOIE, ETC. —Aanso— A SPECIAL LINE OF IMPORTED BLACK DUCHESSE SATIN BROCADES at $1.00 per Yard. SE HABLA ESPANOL. G. VERDIER & CO., SE. Cor. Geary and Grant Ave. VILLE DE PARIS. BRANCH HOUSE, LOS ANGELES. WALL PAPER! JAS. DUFFY & CO. Have REMOVED to No. 20 Gfl'y Street. GREAT REDUCGTION TO CLOSE OUT LAST SEASON'S PATTERNS TO MAKE ROOM FOR THE NEW WINDOW SHADES! Any Color, Size or Kind. WHOLESALE—AND—RETAlL,