The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 1, 1895, Page 17

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, DECEMBER 1, 1895. 17 The great difficulty nowadays in select- | ing gifts for those blessed with riches is to find something unusual, quaint or an- tique. In theE curiosity shops abound where can be found many artistic treas- ures and curios, but to make such a search successful the would-be purchaser must be well-informed and have an abundance of time at his or her disposal. K vk There are only a few curio stores in this City. Atoneof them that I recently dis- covered are to be found rare bits of silver, ranging from 5 to 100 rs in age, oddly shaped little pitchers, massive and se- verely plain silver salvers. I examined a v slipper of Dutch silver lined with gold which is meant to hold either flowers or bonbo for my “faire laidie.” The silver is quaintly wrought. On the toe is represented a young gallant assisting a maiden to step out of a boat. The damsel is represented as coquettishly ng upon the youth and fanning her- The next scene should represent her ¢ ng in the waves, the prospect hat between the fan and her smiles o the water, but instead she is around with a huge d beaming still upon the fatuated youth. Needless to sa ns are not modern, and althoug never wore a slipper of this size, it will not be long before these pretty ornaments will d their way into some of the Christmas boxes about which we must-all soon begin to thin % %k ¥k &k An exquisite tea-caddy, hall marked, was also shown me, and how 1 longed to have it sent home for my own little tea-table. It is a beauty and woula adorn the prettiest of tables. A great massive claret jug is well worth looking at, the grapes and leaves being faithfully reo- resented. Cream pitchers made during the time of Que 1eand the Georges are all in view, and bonbon boxes about 200 years ld can be had for a moderate sum. A well-known clubman here had selected one of the best of the pitchers, showing his good taste. A pair of candlesticks, abso- lutely plain, of massive silver, are about 500 years old and are to be had for a trifle over $100. * k Kk Kk k t a large store downtown an exception- handsome set of bouilion cups are on bition. They are of the finest porce- with perfectly painted wood violets he inside. These cups are mounted in e filigree silver. % Aok koK At the same place I noticed quite a d collecting in front of one of the i as not surprised when I 1e disolay of cups for our veral of them are very stic workmanship. 0 saw_a most ap- | ypriate present for a man. Itisa Doul- | cup. The ground is of deep 4 border of cards and ile stately and frivolous demons in dark chocolate color walk around the cup—a handsome ornament for a bach- elor's room, and one he will appreciate more, obably, than a white satin cravat case embroidered in—well, say, forget-me- nots or rosebuds. * k kX x % ow, let me suggest to the men that 1ld examine the exquisite china, s the silver, before purchasing, e, a set of plates, just arrived will make any woman who sed with taste sigh if she cannot a dozen, for on a strange, grayish, 1, purple ground in the center of each piate is marvelously painted a great white bird in flight. Each plate has a dif- 1 | directions. | were seen on all sides, ! stones, lace and flowers as well. woman and_leave things in her hands, for many a handsome gown have I seen ruined by the giving of too many conflicting However, if you have really artistic ideas, by all means compose your hats, mantles and frocks, and the result will justify your expenditure of time and thought and enable you to save many dollars. * k k Kk Kk A gown designed for a recent reception is worthy to be described. 1t is of white satin, the hem of the skirt being decorated with a design in burnished steel and crys- tal representing bows, leaves and butter- flies. Toe bodice is comnpletely covered with the same design, while only the but- terflies appear on the sleeves. White ostrich feathers adorn the right shoulder and a bow of satin the left. Point lace furnishes the bodice. This costume was worn by a matron, and on the same occasion there was worn by a young woman & frock of palest yellow satin, with the front seams decorated with waves of tulle matching the satin, which were caugltt with rosettes, in the center of which were some exquisite pink and yel- low roses. The bodice was made with a deep corselet at the back of the satin,which is turned back at one side of the fronts re- vealing a complete underbodice of gath- ered tulle, and the decolletage is outlined with a ruche, while on the shoulders are some roses and the sleeves are composed of many frills of tulle. * *x k Kk Kk For the horse show appropriate fans have been designed. They are composed of silk gauze, on one of which was de- picted a spirited jockey chase. This fan vas mounted in light-colored tortoise- shell. * k k ok Kk At New York’s eleventh National horse show the women proved fully that they did not attend merely to comment on_the go! s rgeous garments worn, as Mrs. Suffern aylor's bigh-stepping harness mare, ladys, was much admired, and took a first as well as a second prize. * Kk k k *x Miss May Bird’s hunter, Merry Boy, was d_with ribbons. Mrs. S. S.°Y land’s Lady Bird, also a hunter, almost as great a favorite as Merry Boy. One of the fines ddle-horses shown is owned frs. R. S. McCreery. He took a first pr Mrs. Jobn S. Gerken's four- second prize in one of the . I could mention several other which were won by women, but will conciude with a quotation from an Eastern ‘These are but a few of the women whose entries contributed to make the eleventh National horse show the success which it proved. They were represented in nearly all classes, and were almost in- variably in attendance, following with the | closest” interest the judges’ decisions, | which affected the fate of their favorites.” * Kk K k Kk However, I must admit thatclothes were given some thought, for the sight pre- sented isalluded to as a marvelous pageant, for the belles and beaux from munf' of our principal cities were present. Velvet cos- tumes were much in evidence, but velvet jackets were also seen, with camelshair and satin shirts. All the coats were shorr, none of the stylish ones being more than twenty-five inches in length. The furs | worn “were simply magnificent, making | even simple gowns very handsome. Black | was much worn, but blue was in high fa- or. Many of the somber gowns had lapels taced with white satin, across which | were sewed bands of dark fur. Between | the bands was antique lace. * k k x % A few light-colored waists were worn with dark skirts, but they were not suc. cessful, the costumes of one fabric being so much handsomer. The moderate hats were the most successful, but huge affairs laden not only with but with rhine- Strik- ingly ugly women showed a partiality for the most conspicuous headgear, but on the whole the chapeaux and bonnets worn | were beautiful creations, as will be many of those worn at our show. * x k *x k I have just seen a love of a bonnet of the new shade of light pink velvet. It has an edging of rhinestone, a tuft of real lace and a bushy white aigrette. * ok Kk k Kk Mrs. Harold G. McCormick (nee Rocke- feller) probably believed in the old super- stition that it is unlucky to change the date of a wedding day. At a reception given last week a superb toilet was much commented on. It was |of Nile green satin draped with the feathers, fur and velvet, ferent design, but all are the work of a true artist. { * * k k % | Among the most novel and fanciful of the new silks imagine over a plaided ground of the rictest colors large Louis | XVI patterns in black or mere blac stripes alternating the brilliance of the | under colorings. There are also plaids | over which large, hairy stripes simulating fur form square or diamond patterns of the most curious_effect, and others dark- ened by silk stripes in black, or somber tints, either plain or gauffered. The same effects are obtained upon light, soft vei- - Dark colors prevail, with the ex- some new shades of gray called Wing,” *Tamatave” and “Zanzi- In blues are to be had the corn- and the Boussuet; in greens the | d the emerald; in burnt shades, | and and the Madeira. * k k k % 1 do not consider it healthy to form the habit of wearing fur around the throat, but must confess the medici_collars of fur, and small wavy capes or a zibeline or two, or even three, are very fashionable and equally becoming to long-necked women. When zibelines are worn, the_beads fasten the boas, and the tails are half-hidden in falls of rich creamy lined lace. Fur is also used to line many of the handsomest embroidered velvet capes. A beautiful little one from Paris islined with ermine; the collar and front are bordered with sable. The mantle itself is of black | velvet, beaded in roses and leaves; the cen- ter of the flowers is of dull satin. The shape is simple and fits tightiy over the shoulders—falling in folds or godets about | the figure, extending a trifle below the waist line. These plainly cut mantles, with black velvet or black satin faced cloth, make handsome costumes, provided each article is the work of an artist, for to ake our skirts hang properly requires that i an should be more than a mere | dressmaker, as the cachet ofa toilet de- pends more on this than anything else, excepting, perhaps, our sleeves, the style of which undergo almaost hourly changes. They are now certainly less wide at the shoulders, but they are’ not less extrava- gant. Asin Paris, the fashionable sleeves consume four yards and a halfof silk, but they are beanties, I assure you. Speaking of French women reminds me that I have fraquently read that a Parisienne rarelv chooses her toilet exactly like any given model. She usually shows her per- sonal taste. Now this is an excellent way of doing, provided one is certain of one's personal taste; otherwise go to a good A Dainty House Dress. {From Revue de la Mode.) sheerest chiffon, embroidered with golden sequins. The effect was truly charming. Never have our girls been more admired than they have this season at the numer- ous teas, receptions and dances, and thev deserve many compliments, so sweetly pretty are their gowns, so softly fluffy and becomingly do they arrange their hair, and, best of all, what low, sweet voices and lovely manners many of them have. One little brown-eyed beauty was unusually at- tractive this week in a simple white mus- lin frock over a salmon-pink silk slip. The yoke was of Valenciennes insertion, and many little frills of this lace made a most appropriate dress for one of our debutantes. ast very young girls wear all winter to dances the fairy-like colored organdies so exquisite in design. These are usually made over silk slips, which make many changes possible with but a small outlay. These fabrics are so much more appropri- ate than silks or satins for the young, and a girl always looks well in white muslin, wuich can be given a touch of color by the addition of broad satin ribbons. * Kk k Kk k Some have called this a rough-cloth season, but the finest and smoothest of cloth is equally correct, as only lthe finest combines well with fur, [ women in our country are interested in and fur is absolutely the rage at present. The latest rough cloth, called “drap militaire,”” has appeared in Paris, and it is said to be so coarse that it will only be used for capes, collars, and jackets. A truly Parisian idea is to com- ine it with the finest of cloth. * k k k k Diamond clasps and Henri de Navarre plumes are very swell, and it is worthy of note that the style for ‘‘grand tenue’’ is to have in place of sleeves only lace drapery over the arms. *x k k k Kk The new veils called “‘complexion veils” are in great demand across the pond. * k k k * OQur old favorites, flenr-de-lys, are still a fashionable design, and a gown lovely to contemplate is thus described: ‘A black satin gown, the skirt embroidered all over with fleur-de-lys in iridescent sequins, is semi-trained, bordered with black ostrich feathers. The corsage decollete is of white chiffon over white silk and draped with the most airy, delicate black lace, which forms the sleeves, being only a sort of drapery,” which emphasizes the beauty of | a pretty arm. Only the most exclusive milliners have the great novelty in hats, which consists in making them of shirred or drawn silk or velvet. The velvets used are usually in shades of dahlia, grenat or Aubergine. The ({)reuy crowns are usually soft and round in shape and covered with fine lace or embroidery. Among the new and choice trimmings are pale green lime blossoms. * k k Kk Kk A recent bride has had all her under linen worked with a long monogram on the left side. The finest Valenciennes lace is 1n great favor for trousseaux at present. *x k k k Kk How sweet and dignified was Wednes- day's bride, and her maids were ex- tremely picturesque. Some unusually handsome gowns were seen at the church and at the breakfast. * Kk k k Kk Ermine is remarkably unbecoming in the broad light of day to even the most perfect complexion. This is well known to those who make a study of such sub- jects. * x k k *k A correspondent from Vienna writes: The riding - whip has long since been buried in the oblivion of the past; so has the stick of cherrywood, so chic and handy, both being replaced, with ultra- smart women, by a peculiar sort of twist, made of slim bits of tamboo, braided, as it were, and terminated at each end by a circlet of gold. Thisis a “primeur,” the finest of the fine, and has but just made its appearance in the clan of sportswomen. * k k %k k The only red-haired princess in Euarope is the Duchess of Genoa, who is devoted to Miss Baird’s Gown in the Last Act of “Trilby.” [From the Queen.) riding, but also ‘“‘swims superbly and es- pecially is great at gymnastics.” * k k Kk Kk All mothers will feel some interest in reading an extract from a Russian corre- spondent of Vogue concerning a gift ior the new baby Russian Princess: *It con- sists of an artisticaily executed basket made entirely of goiden reeds, loosely woven, and interlaced and lined with rose- hued velvet. This truly imperial basket, which measures no less than twenty-two inches square, is encircled by a fairy-like garment of pearl-studded lilies, with gold- en foliage, while on the left side a cluster of the same costly blooms emerges from an imperial crown all ablaze with diamonds and turquoises. Truly, few baby baskets have ever been ordered on such expensive lines, especially as the tiny toilet articles it contains are of pure gold, thickly en- crusted with pearls and brilliants.” * Kk Kk Kk Kk Recently at the Alcazar Theater a stylish costume was worn by Miss Fanny Young. It was of an orange-colored crepe-like ma- terial, which fitted her excellent figure to perfection, and was completed by a hand- some deep collar of a dark, rich green vel- vet bordered with mink. Miss Kennark's gowns were both pretty and suitable. * k k k * Just as we all supposed that moire had gone out of style fashion has declared it to be the thing for handsome skirts. The Maison Worth sent oui for Miss Whitney’s bridesmaids entire gowns of ‘this handsome stuff, and they were ereatly admired. Some of these moires are called *‘printed moires,” as the watered lines are printed to form large and lovely flowers, such as tulips, great lilies, orchids and roses. * k Kk k %k It seems absurd, but it 1s a fact never- theless, that at the New York Horse Show a beautifully clad woman wore a chiffon waist with a broadcloth skirt. Why, this combination is as bad as the new fad of having furniture of all epochs and styles in -one room. I should feel as though I were in a curiosity show on entering such an apartment. * k k k * I see that the Signora Duse will sail for America with her company some time in January. Under the management of Henry C. Miner she will in February be- gin her tour in New York, and I sincerely trust we shall yet see this wonderful woman in California. .. This is an age of clubs and societies, so it is interesting to note that a new society has been organized composed of the de- scendants of old Dutch families in this country whose ancestors_were prominent in the history of New York prior to the year 1685. Some of the most prominent this organization. The coming week will be a gay one, for not only are we all going to the horse show and to many little suppers, but be- sides a Jarge euchre party is to be given, and the usual number of teas, luncheons and dinners. MARCELLA. FOR MEN. It was at the Haymarket Theater, Lon- don, that Mr. Du Maurier saw hie play for the first time at the dress rehearsal. * k k k k The first chapter of Rudyard Kipling's DEMI-TOILETTE Square epaulettes and fluted jabot in white turquoise. DINNER GOWN. Polar-blue Bengaline silk. Folded belt, with bow and square neck frame in moire silk. crepe embroidered with pearls, crystals and Sydney, and has been relating his experi- ences of ‘‘lawyers and bars, newspaper editors, horsethieves and Congressmen.” Apparently he does not enjoy his tour, as he recently remarked that he hates work, unless it be writing a book, when he will go on until hic pen drops from his hand from sheer fatigue. * Kk ok Kk Kk - It is said by critics that Loid Rosslyn is as good as the best of professional actors. * %k Kk Kk k The Duke of .\l{ulborouih's presents to the bride were jeweled butterflies, with ruby heads and diamond and emeraid wings. The ushers received from him sap- phire scarfpins, surmounted by coronets. The flowers carried by the bride and her maids were from the conservatories of Blenheim Palace. * * Kk Kk Kk At the New York Water Color Club, which is just holding its sixth annual ex- hibition, Mr. Isham has again the most finished and beautiful work,. Mr. La Farge, Mr. Snell and Mr. Curran also re- ceived much praise for their exceptionally fine productions. X k Kk k % Speaking of top coats and ulsters for winter wear, the following remark is made by Vogue: ‘“‘The top coat is made of covert cloth. It can either be a box orcovert coat. The fashionable shade is tan or fawn. It is single-breasted, and if a covert coat reaches just to the knees. The box coat is a trifle shorter. It should be lined with silk, but the collars and cuffs should be of same material as coat. The ulster should be made of Irish frieze, very long, with cape, single-breasted, in a dark gray or mixed goods. A very popular coat for winter heavy wear will be the paddock, made of angola or cheviot, and lined with checked kersey, single-breasted, peaked lapels, velvet collar.” * x k k * Men when attending weddings, after- noon receptions or teas must always wear gloves. * k k k % Unless a man is engaged to a woman he should only send her flowers, bonbons and books as presents. C. C. “BAB” AS ETIQUETTER. She Feels Compelled to Answer Many Inquiries on the Sub- Ject. NEW YORK, Nov. 27, 1895.—[ am going to be an etiquetter, so to say. I don’t think that word appears in the dictionary, but in these days when we are all free and equal, either in the United States Senate or on a Broadway cable-car, the coining of a word is a small privilege. My reason for adopting this profession for the time being is, as an editor would say, in answer to many inquiries. I do think most em- phatically that it is wise for those who are poor, but not vulgar, those who have high minds ard thin purses, to have a day ‘‘at home.” For then the hostess is certain to have all things in order, to assume a pretty frock and with it her best manners and be prepared to greet the lady who calls. Some of the ladies who call are beautifully sys- tematic. I may seem to jeer at them, but Ido not—I envy them. It isa beautiful thing to be able to keep a book that has on one side the calls you have paid and on the other the calls that are due you from other lady callers, for it proves that you have a pure heart and are without malice, for you couldn’t possibly like all these people. However, when you are great on etiquette you have no dislikes. I'do not approve of giving a coming-out Farty in what is known, commonly, as a ong flat; that is, one of those which has a straight, long passageway and many doors on one side of 1t. Among the 500 invited to the coming-out party some will be cer- tan to go into the wrong rooms, which will aggravate their hostess, mortify them, and, if many diamonds are lying around loose, prove a great temptation to a profes- sional lady caller. My parent says that people living in long flats do not have many diamonds, but she is not well up in the ways of this world. I have seen a girl who couldn't pay her landlady $5a week wear three marquise rings, large head- lights in her ears, a diamond brooch, a diamond locket—one of that debased kind known as the Trilby—and two diamond bracelets. She said something about her gentleman friend, but that is another story. A gentleman friend and an eti- quetter do not harmonize. ' Really, though, it is a good thing if you happen to have many friends, and do not keep an extensive establishment, to select a special afternoon to see all your women friends, and give them a _little of the cup that cheers. Speaking about the cup that cheers, I would like to say that very often it nearly poisons. But that is when the hostess has invited a young girl to preside over the urm She is usually stuck on her frock, and determined to have as little trouble as possible, s0 she dumps about a vound of tea in the teapot, starts the kettle and pours on water until those poor tea leaves lose all flavor, and the last caller gets a cup of tepid water. Now everybody knows the effect of tepid water. Hot water or cold water is possible, but tepid water reduces the last caller to such a situation that, after the call, she standson the edge of the sidewalk while a kindly policeman holds her, and she throws up her belief in a third term. During this episode small new story, *‘William the Conqueror,” will appear on December 7 in an English maga- zine and an American one. * k k k Kk Mark Twain has been lecturing in boys stand around and jeer, and an eld- erly woman with a white ribbon in her buttonhole, says in a loud, shrill voice, “What can we expect of the poor men when the women drink?” This stale, stewed tea is a disgrace. No- body offers stale beer or cold vegemblea t8 herfriends, but these long-standing drugs are counted as proper, and the lady who is receiving thanksthe girls who stew the tea for being so sweet and industrious. Another way of making tea, favored by voung ladies who like to flirt, and who think nothing of the stomachs of the lady callers, is to put the tea in the copper ket- tle, keep adding fresh leaves. and lettin it boil all the afternoon. Strong? Igt would not only make your hair curl, but it would raise the top of your head. Still, the dear girls are capable of doing any- thing when it comes to choosing between work or play. It was a Jadies’ luncheon that the other letter was about. In giving a luncheon to women alone the dishes are usually fancy and uneatable. What else can be expected? When a woman has to put all her money in favors and decorations, there is so little left for food that, what in England are called hashes about her diseases, and, after listening attentively to ber, I knew more about the feminine interior department than I had ever believed would be possible, except to adoctor. Thesecond took for her topic that never-ending and always beautiful one—the children. She dilated on the cleverness of oue, the remarkable sensi- tiveness of another, she repeated the last cunning speech of a small boy, and told of the baby’s determination, during the quiet hours of the night, to keep herself before them. But for her general appearance I should have thought her a nurse in an orphan asylum. The third lady, meta- E{horicall_v, never got into the parlor at all. er mind never rose above the kitchen, and she talked servants until, well, until I wondered why she kept them if they wor- ried her so, mentally and physically. The fourth lady had just got back from seeking green fields and pastures new on the other side of the ocean, and I rather expected she would tell us of great paint- ings, notable people, or beautiful scenery. But her talk ran this way: “At Geneva I fiot some lace very cheap, and at a shop in egent street some beautiful underwear; but bonnets are quite as costly as they are here. In Rome we picked up some pretty jewelry, and in Venice Fanny found some eads that went very well with that clasp she bought last year.”” These were her im- pressions of travel. The fifth lady, thank goodness, had a fad. She was a suffragist, and she talked about the ability of woman, tke greatness of woman, the trueness of woman and the honesty of woman in a way that was conyincing to herself, if not to others. Thatis all that I know about small talk as gleaned from lady callers. The other question is a delicate one. He hasn’t asked her to marry him, but she feels sure that he will. Under these circumstances is it right for him to hold her hand? As I have been asked this straight out, I should like to say that she will be wiser is she keeps her hand to herself and lets him have nothing at all to do with it until there ghtters upon it the ring which means that his life is no longer his own. After that he can hold her hand, and he can kiss her good-night with 1mpunity and whatever pleasure may result therefrom. The position of the young woman engaged to be married is usually spoken of as a delicate one. I am sure I don’t know why, for if ever a hu- man being looked like a captor dragging around a miserable victim, it may be said to be the newly engaged girl and her young man. She commands him, and if he dares to disobey she gives nim a look that would strike awe among kings. She expects him to follow her like a pet dog, bur, unlike a pet dog, he can demand no rivileges. Any courtesy she shows him e must accept, not only with pleasure, but with an eeressed gratitude, prefer- ably in a tangible form, jewelry, sweets, flowers or fruit being preferred. However, according to the melodrama, his time will come, and it is to be hoped he will enjoy himself. While he is merely somebody’s betrothed, he is, to be slangy, in the Mulligatawny, and I bet you don’t know what or where thatis. Itis a dirty river in Persia. It rises in the Caspian Sea, flows past Teheran and empties_itself into the Red Sea. The soup named for it is supposed to resemble it, and too often it tastes like it. A bow is made. The etiquetter feels that she has done her best. She grins with de- light and begs to say that if there are peo- plewho want to know anything covered by this word, etiquette, which really means a ticket, she will do her best to answer and in France entrees are the only things possible. The charm of the ladies’ lunch- | eon ig, that as one plays with the dishes | offered, there is much time for talk, and lovely woman can lie—I didn’t mean to say that word, for it isn’t nice—I mean lovely woman can accept the compliments | about her frock, and shrug her shoulders, and say it is a little thing that was made for her in Paris and only cost $200. This gives the woman next to her achance to pinch the leg of the woman next to her and whisper, “It was made right_here in New York, and she was cheated if it cost 1 over $50.” . Then the unmarried women are sweet and humble, and tell of the men who pro- posed to them in the years gone by, and whose wives are now present. They look at Mrs. Jones ana say, “I. know, sweei- heart, you won’t mind, but, of course, Charlie hadn’t met you_then, and I was his first love.”” But Mrs. Jones does mind, and later on Mr. Jones has an unpleasant quarter of an hour. Then, with the coffee there usually appear two or three of the cheap compounds sold at the large | shops, where you can get a diamond | brooch or a scrubbing-brush, a Worth frock or a rat-trap, and called by the saleswoman “liquors”—*French likkers,” she explains. The hostess has told her husband how much cheaper she can get them there than at the wineshop, and after he has tasted them he wonders that | they are not given away with the guessing contests in the Sunday papers. However, the women drink them, and the first woman to depart is the one who suffers. Her hostess says: “I don’t want to seem inhospitable; 1 like all my friends to have the best that [ have and as much as they care for, but did you notice how many glasses of liquor dear Ethel took?'’ And everybody sighs and groans, and one woman closes her eyes in a_lackadaisical sort of manner and say: will not dis- cuss it, but, dear child, I will say a prayer for her.”” And then everybody sighs softly again, and, after the lady who is so gener- ous with her prayers departs, the girl who sat next to her makes a face and says: “0ld hypocrite? She’s agood sight better be praying for that son of hers and let Kthel alone.” 2 By this time everybody had verged around to Ethel's side and had their glasses filled, and the hostess plaintively asks: “Does anybody suppose I would say a word against any one of my guests?”’ And her most intimate friend answers: “No, Clarice; you are too honorable.” Then for a few minutes everybody talks about Clarice’s honor, and sheis rosy red with delight and indigestion, and inquires: ‘‘Are you asked to the Browns' dinner dance?” Everybody is except one girl, and she remarks, never mentioning the fact that she hasn’t got a card: *‘Well, of course, you can all go if you like to, but mamma objects to seeing my name among the people - present, for we know how ~Mr. Brown made his moneg." Then she says good-by to everybody, and- one woman pins a bunch of violets on her coat, and another kisses her on each cheek, and the one who decorated her with flowers murmurs, as a sort of eulogy: ‘‘Poor Mollie, it is funny to hear her talking about what her mother won’t let her do, for it is many a long day since she clapped hands for mamma.” The girl who kissed Mollie says: ‘‘Oh, Mrs. Jones, that’s slang. But, indeed, dear Mollie is too utterly ridiculous.” And soitgoes on until at last there is nobody left but the hostess and her dearest friend and she inquires, ““Ain’t you glad it is over?”’ and the hostess answers, “Indeed I am, but I have wiped off my list all that tribe.” This is the average dove luncheon. Of course, theré are hospitable women, and there are times when two or three meet to- gether, two or three pleasant women, and have a thoroughly good time. The fancy that exists d’ust at present for calling women friends by over-affectionate names is especially noticeable at a dove luncheon. Somebody addresses the hostessas *‘Sweet- heart” ; a square-jawed woman, who looks as though she had never known the mean- ing of the word, iscalled *Love” ; a girl who lisps addresses everybody as ‘Dearest,’ while ‘‘Dear” is as’common_ as postage stamps. I confess to not liking it. A woman wants to be ‘‘dearest” and “sweet- est” and “love” toa man, and when she calls anybody by these endearing terms, she wants to address a baby. Hence their inappropriateness between women. The other letter that came to me dbount etiquette asked about an afternoon visit. From its tone I imagine the writer is one of the kind who arrives promptly at 3 and remains until 6:15 o’clock, and then finds you are not quite pleasant because you don’t ask her to stay to dinner. Twenty ‘minutes 13 long enough for a i lady caller to inflict herself on a Kind- hearted hostess, and the brighterand more delightful she is the more certain will she be of appreciation if she departs while her charms are still fresh. She who writes wishes to know what constitutes small talk. I scarcely know myself, so I listened to five lady callers. The first one told all them, if they will write their questions on postal cards and address them to Bas. BIKE AND BLOOMERS. Fur bloomers are now in order.—Cincin- nati Tribune. The Rochester Democrat and Chronicle wants a man to “cultivate a graceful car- riage” while riding a wheel. Just as though one vehicle at a time was not enough.—Buffalo Times. “Your husband, madam,” said the sad- eyed messenger, ‘‘has been run over by—"" ‘‘Great heavens!” “A trolley-car.” “Oh, is that all? I thought it was one of them bicycles.”’—Indianapolis Journal. THE WHEELMAN'S WOOING. Shady the lane where the wild flower grows; Scented the air from the wild hedge ros Shadows of leaves with the sunlight play; Vibrant the air with the song-bird’s lay. he might probably have penned admiration the beautiful op! Whittier's “Maud Muller,” poet singing after this fashion: for its continuance I and quality of my millinery goods shall not be surpassed nor your confidence in my ability allowed to diminish. ALyA E. KEITH, Leading Milliner, 24 Kearny and 808 Market st. What of the maid where the gateway opes, The wheelman's whistle down the siopes? Curved i3 the stream in the distant field; Solemn the bell in the steeple vealed; Watchful the bunter blowing his horn; Piped all the quail in the field of corn. What will tue maid to the wheelman say, The wheelman waiting his yea or nay? Love {s a theme for the rustic air; Passion’s romance throbs its wildest there; Stars of the night and orb of the day Blend in harmonies of nature’s sway. What of the maid by the moss-grown gate? A wheelman's joy—he has learned his fate. ‘WILLIAM HOSEA BALLOU in New Orleans Pica- yune, “Knickerbockers?”’ she said. “Why not? I have a perfect right.” “And the left?” one asked her, hesitat- ingly. But she preserved a dignified silence, deeming the question in the nature of a personality.—Indianapolis Journal. Some of the greatest wooers of the muse have failed to create any special ideals of womanhood. Dryden, Milton, Pope and Cowper have utterly failea in this respect. But the more modern ones have done well. Burns’ “Handsome Nell” and “Highland Mary,” Scott’s ‘“‘Lady of the Lake,” Mrs. NEW TO-DAY. TO GET RID OF GRAY HAIR. All any lady or man has to do is to use my won- derful 4-DAY HAIR RESTORER accord- ing 1o directions. No stickiness; won't prevent curling. Costsonly $1. For sale by ail druggists. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR, Moles, Warts, Red Nose. Blackheads, Scars, Pit- tings, Powder-marks. Birthmarks, Freckles, etc., destroyed forever without pain, scar or injury by “ELECTRIC NEEDLE. TRIAL POT, ootz oot stamps will_receive a book of instructions and a box of Skin Food and Face Powder free. MRS. NETTIE HARRISON, BEAUTY DOCTOR, 40 and 42 Geary Street, San Francisco. MME, KARROWS MYSTIC WONDER. The very latest scientific discovery for all irregularities and other female com- plications. It is the wonder of the nine- teenth century. Guaranteed a positive, safe and harmless female regulator. Price 85 (by express only). Approved Dby the leading physicians. The Mme. Karrow's Women's Dispensary, 1206 MARKET STREET. ‘This dispensary is the only institution of its kind ou the Pacific Coast that makes aspecialty of treat- ing ezclusively women's diseases of every descrip- tion. Mme. Karrow and her staff of physicians have made diseases of women a life study and guar- An‘zee .drlm satisfaction to every patient or money refunded. Mme. Karrow’s preparations for the tollet are considered by the Arlplmncy 10 be the cream of perfection for begutifying and p; plexion. Please call and see them. Patients treated by mail. ‘ m-m-l u‘%: Browning’s *‘Aurora Leigh,”” Tennyson’s *Maud,”” “Dora,” “Amy” and “The Prin- cess,” Owen Meredith’s “Lucile,” Long- fellow’s ‘‘Evangeline,” Whittier's “Maud Mull tany’’—these are generally realistic and lovable. C with only & new woman in perspective to inspire their creators? ,”” and Paul Hayne’s “Wife of Brit- Could they have been conceived 1If she had been a pronounced type when Byron lived, instead of writing the lovely lines: “She walks in beauty like the night 01 cloudless climes and starry skies,” “She walks in bloomers, sorter tight, The cynosure of siaring eyes!” She might have kept from posterity’s ening lines of and sent the “Maud Muller on a summer day Got out her wheel and sped away. Beneath her plug hat glowed the wealth Of man-like beauty and buxom health. Humping she sped, and frightened she The mockbird from a near-by tree.” emphis Commercial Appeal. —————— MuME. ALMA E. KEITH of 24 Kearny st. has bought out the large retail and wholesale store of P. F. Butler, 808 Market st. (carriage en- trance 5 O’Farrell st.),and will continue to run both stores with the same old familiar faces behind the counters. With_heartfelt thanks for past patronage end an earnest wish romise that the stylo Yours respectfully, MyE. NEW TO-DAY. HARRIET HUBBARD AYER'S Recamier Toilet Preparations JULIE RECAMIER. THE ORIGINAL OF THIS PICTURE RBe TAINED HER EXQUISITE COMPLEX- 10N THROUGH THE USE OF RE- CAMIER CREAM UNTIL HER DEATH AT EIGHTY. No woman can be beautiful or even CLEANLY in appearance whose face is marred by pimples, blackheads, blotches, freckles or other imper- fections. These are the only skin remedies indorsed by physicians. THEY ARE PURE. WHERE DID YOU EVER SEE SUCH INDORSEME BEFORE? FROM MADAME ADE. CraTe “MY DEAR MRS, AV ar tions; my skin is s0_immensely improved by their nse. I need not dread old age while these magic inventions of yours exist. Iuse Cream, Balm and Lotion every day of my life. Recamier Soap also is perfect. I shall never use any other. I hear that the Princess of Wales is delighted with the Recamier Preparations. I am convinced they are the greatest boon ever invented. Affectionately yours, ADELINA PATTI-NICOLINL" “I conslder them a Juxury and necessity 10 every woman.” CORA URQUHART POTTER. “Most refreshing and beneficial and FAR supe- rior to any others.” FANNY DAVENPORT. “The perfection of toilet articles.” SARAH BERNHARDT. “The Recamier Preparations are absolutely PEERLESS. 1 shall aiways use them.” . SLENA MODJESKA. “I use the Recamiers religiously and believe them ESSENTIAL to the toilet of eves who desires a fair skin.” LILLIE LANGT: “I unquslifiedly recommend them as the very best in existence.” CLARA LOUISE KELLOGG. Recamier Cream, for tan. sunburn, pimples, etc. Price 81 50. Recamier Balm, a beautifier, pure and sim- ple. Price $1 50. Recamier Almond Lotion, for freckles moth and discolorations. Price $1 50. Recamier Powder, forthe toilet and nursery. Will stay on and does not make the face shine. Prices—Large boxes $1, small boxes 30c. Recamier Soap, the best in the world. Prices— Scented 50c, unscented 23c. SPECIAL NOTICE. Refuse Substitutes. Send 2-cent stamp for sample of Tollet Powder, gun:’phne: and Bargain offer. Mail orders promptly HARRIET HUBBARD AYER, 131 West 31st St., NEW YORK CITY. FREUD'S CORSET HOUSE. Largest Corsetflse in America. SPECIAL BARGAINS. Perfect-fitting Drab Corsets, regular value $1 50, will be offered at 75 cents. Warner’s uos Dr. Coraline Health Corsets. oji0Ang “BISIUAL 395100 POPIO) OBUSE R LILYY =jqoug ‘s3sjup esjodmnby eojpog Y 1epom I01IW ssouUuSP Gujnuop Thompson’s Celebrated Glove- Fitting Corset. poop CORSETS MADE TO ORDER AND REPAIRE: FIT GUARANTEED. Country Orders Promptly and Faithfuily Fllled. B~ Catalogue sent free upon application. A~ Parcels delivered free to Oakland, Alameda and Berkeley. Make No Mistake in Our Address: M. FREUD & SON, 742.744 Market St. and 10-12 Grant Ave. LOOKI T THE 10 PER CENT REDUCTION AT JOE POHEIM'S, the Tailor. For holiday trade all the latest designs of Woolens now in. Suits Made to Order from.. Pants Made to Order from Overcoats Made to Order from Full Dress Swallow-Tail im- ported and Silk-Lined from... Perfect Fit G!Iainteed or No Sale. JOE POHEIM, THE TAILOR, 201, 203 Montgomery st., 724 Marketst. and 1110, 1112 Market st. $40.00