The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 20, 1895, Page 21

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNMNDAY, OCTOBER 20, 1895. 21 and already ts bave taken ifornia Hotel the other eor charmingly chic in their from Berlin re- st Wedn evening com- the be of our women's i the perfect fit of their gowns, surprise she said that we re- me woman han tt e received in Berlin, seeming paradox. Truly, a 1 hear of a new corset that every one of possess. It is closed in the s causing the disappearance of | able stiff lines on each side | e t e laces. 1z mode for mantles and | in ity introduced and to reach the feet imulating court rer than the re » most of them. gs ruchings of mous- fawn-colored h and hatto | imson poppies. 1d all now examine our furs, as | fur is to be much used to trim the new nd astrakhan are in high the latest combinations »de! coat of black Persian as revers covered with an purple velvet outlined with an extremely effective gar- r a circular cape of black with gores of chinchilla At the delightful tea recently given in ung girls who assisted in harming in mulles, mus- and although to such farewell until spring lves with the infor- y, delicate, perishable to be the rage again this winter, from Paris has gone forth the fiat that tantes must have several such gowns. the dressmakers are rejoicing, for toilettes can be worn but once, and back they go to madame to be ‘‘done Never before have we had such an ex- travagant season, for elaborately brocaded velv ilk with frise velvet designs upon t n, infinitesimally striped velvets and velvets bearing pompadour patterns upon them fig in every woman’s wardrobe who aspires to be a’la mode, for the em- pire, Louis XV and Louis XVI styles are to prevail. Such announcements are fairly appall- ing for those with limited means, so a word of advice: Have a good and stylish cloth dress made for ordinary wear, then urchase the best black silk you can affora or a skirt and sufficient rich velvet, bro- caded sitk or satin for a Loris XVI coat. Spare no expense about that, for with different waistcoats or _vests you can always look charming during the entire season. The black skirt will pay in the end if of good silk, as you can wear it in the evening with light waists. For the coat 1 greatly prefer shades of olive green, brown or violet. One of these three Ccolors is sure to be becoming, but green and violet go best with black for a calling costume. Now, about the waistcoat. One should certainly be of w corded silk or gatin embroidered in g or_ beautified with far and lace or fur and chiffon. Both are fashionable. Another should be of a fabric prettily contrasting with the coat; for instance, ifit is green have a vesteffect of a becoming shade of vellow. Ifslender yon may have frills of chiffon edged with little black spangles. In fact, I could sug- gest a dozen novelties, but presume you all can do likewise. Girls, do consult your eyes, complexion, coloring, in fact everything, before pur- chasing anything, as by doing this you may pose as belles, whereas you are only sh” by leaving everything to pnaker; however, of course, if e | thing you can do is to send fine materials | goods, are silk lined and show the result | signer. worn by the ladies re- | < were, with few exceptions, either | A ¢ Paris fashions here more quickly | he back, where the eyelet | d fur reaching | The | resign things to her. Iam presuming all | the time that most of you only patronize | the best women, for the most extravagant to cheap women, as the garments will alweys look home-madeand be unsatis- factory. One young woman here has, during each season, six or more new g but is always frampy-looking, whereas a f of mine on a ‘slender allowanc v commented on on account of her perfe te and style, simply because if she can only afford a cloth gown and a visiting one for winter, both are of the test quality of of employing a first-class fitter and de- Our skirts are to re: with but a narrow stiffe bottom. This sounds very reality they must be cut perfectly, other- full plain and wise they hang most horribly. | Moires are to be greatly worn. H are handsomer than ever. I EleanorTalhoun is now pl v | nin the brilliant spectacie, Cheer!” In one of the ears a creation, which is thus | A gown of corn-colo: e in Lou: iz to say that the ample turesque gathers on the hips, and that the | full es, half veiled by the shoulder i of yellow chiffon, would delight a painter’s eye. A large befeathered black hat is the necessary complement to this lovely gown. Another frock is thus written of: The evening dress is of peach-colored ondine, | shot with a delicate green shade. The bodice is extremely novel, with its crossed scarfs of ~green and peach | crepe de chine, that form a sashat the | back. A frill of green crepe suzgests a | square decolletage which does not, how- | ever, exist, and the sleeves are formed of wavelet frills of the pinkish-mauve crepe. Elbow sleeves continue to be the thing, and are certainly pretty if the arm is well They The poplins now arriving in New York are marvels of beauty—entirely unlike the ones worn by our grandmothers. They will, I predict, displace in_popular favor the mohairs and alpacas, which I, frankly, have never admired, as they are always as- sociated with white aprons, caps, white lawn collars and cuffs. MARCELLA, FOR MEN, Now that summer is a thing of the past, we are getting back again to our old con- servative way of dressing, but colorea ties | shaped. | i will be worn all winter and the Eton collar | is the fashionable fad of the hour, and it is | worn with an extremely small, bright- colored bow of silk or foulard, which should be the only bit of color about a well-dressed man. It is predicted that the Ascct tie will shortly be in favor again, made of silk, having a dark ground covered with very bright figures. Men are dressing more simply every season at Newport. The new tweeds are unusually hand- some. Dark effects are most sought after. | Prominent Englishmen are about to es- | tablish a club in New York City, a prelim- | inary meeting having alre there, which was foll d by a dinner at Delmonico’s. Among the invited guests were men who ‘“have been alumni of the 'varsities and of the great British schools, such as Stonyhurst, Eton, Rugby, marl- borough, Beaumont, etc.” Golf is much the rage East, and Mr. Astor has laid out the finest golf links in the country at Thorncliffe. An Eastern journal says: “An interest- ing discovery has just been made—a com- | A Composite Picture of Beauties [Reproduced from the New THE IDEAL AMERICAN GIRL. i From Many States of the Union. York Herald.] | shall it not be more than enough for 2 wise woman ?—Pall Mall Budget. e HERE IS A MODEL. | Husbands May Themselves After This Sty New Yorl Scene 1—Front parlor. husband, trim- ming his cufts with a pair of scissors. Wife—Good morning, dear. Hushand—Good morning. | Wife—Do you wish anything? | Husband—No, dear. (Exit husband.) | Bcene 2—Library. Enter husband sewing a button on nis vest. Wite—What are you doing, dear? {usband—N i (Exit husbena.) Scene 3—Laundry. Husband washing a hand- kerchief. Enter wife. ‘Wife—Are you busy, my dear? Husband—No, pet. Wife—Are you sure now? Husband—Positive. (Exit wife.) | Scene 4—Breakfast room. Enter husband, Wife—Are you angry because breakfastisn’t ready, love? Husband—No, sweetheart. | Wife—Yes, you are! | Husband—No, I'm not. | Wife—But here comes your train, and you | will almost have to break your neck to get it. | (Exit husband.) | Scene 5—Hall. Enter wife. Wife—Good-by, deer. Husband—Good-by. Wife—Are you so very, very hungry? Husband—No, not very. Wife—You're not in good humor. Husband—Yes I am, darling. Wife (with melting eyes)—Then, dear, will | you let me have $22 7 | When it comes? | ~ Husband—Yes, certainly; take this $50 and keep the change for pin money, (Exit husband.) — e Is the New Woman New ? Maurice Thompson, clergyman and lit- terateur, gives his decided views on the new woman question in the Chicago Chap Book. He answers in the negative the question, ‘Is the new woman new?”’ and takes for his text Louise Labe ; of Lyons, who as Captain Loys cut a great figure at the siege of Perpignan in 1542, and later distinguished and eclipsed her- self as writer of exotic yerse. In his inci- dental comment the writer has a good deal to say. Here are a few extracts: It is impossible to resist the new woman, mainly, perhaps, on account of her moral fas. cination; but somewhat is duein this behalf | to & certain perspective which, reaching into the enchantment of remote times, connects her with a picturesque succession of new women. edy written by Edward Gibbon, the famous author of the ‘Decline and Fall of the| Roman Empire’ The manuscript was | found among some relics of the dead | writer that have never been thoroughly | examined, and it is now in the possession of the Earl of Sheffield. Here is a chance for an enterprising American manager.”’ C. C. ———— ARE YOU ONE OF THEM? Chances According to Mathematical Cal- culation of Women Getting Married. | In Encland and Wales there are rather | more than five millions of husbandless women aged 15 years and older. Some of these women want to get married, and some don’t—at least they say they don’t. For the benefit of those women who do | wish to get married I have drawn the | above diagram, and it tells them within relatively close limits of age how long they can afford to play about with matrimony without seriously lessening their chance of a wedding-ring. Between now and this time next year | about 224,000 out of those’ 5,000,000 hus- | bandless women will have decided that a husband is worth having, and they will accordingly get one—perhaps for the pleas- ure of keeping him, perhaps not. Thisis a large number of brides—so large, in fact, that these brides equal in number the whole present population of the county of Hertford. The chance of a woman going inside one of the four wedding}»}rings shown here is materially affected by her age. For ex- ample, at the ages of 15 to 19 only fourteen women out of every 1000 unattached women of these ages will marry during one year from now. Butat the ages of 20 to 24 no fewer than 107 women out of every 1000 husbandless women of these ages will, in one year only, become women who did unproperly. After this second grou; of ages it becomes risky to play about; it is wiser to proceed to business, for at ages 25 to 34 we see that only eighty-six per thousand husbandless women of these ages marry during one year. The last group, ages 35 and older, contains many women who ““don’t want to marry,” and I expect this condition cf in- difference partly accounts for the fact that only twelve per thousand, or say, oneina hundred, women of these ages marry dur- ing the year. Finally, contrast parts three and four of you are doubtful about it you bad better 1-at L vve montns out of every thousand fisiandicss «omen of these ages. this diagram. Verbum sat. sapienti, and A WOMAN’S CHANC 75 15 10 19 vears fonrteen women marry II—At ages 20 (o 24 years one hundred and seven women marry within twelve months out of every (housend husbundless women of these sges. The question might be raised to decide, even at this late hour, between Eve and Lilith: which of them was the progressive, representa- tive female? There have been notable personages all along the line of the centuries who have added grace or disgrace to their sex by vigarous assertion of new-womanhood. From the Hebrew woman who drove the nail into her enemy’s head, along down by way of the Greek philosopher’s wife to Queen Elizabeth, as thoroughly au- thentic records seem to establish, an unbroken strain of man-harrying amazons march through history. And side by side with it another procession is composed of the intellectual prodigies of various female types who have as- saulted the masculine stronghold of science ;nd art, from the days of Sappho (o this good our. Good mothers, faithful wives and healthy- minded sweethearts are not to be crowded out of the army of progress and reform; they are in tostay; but the Louise Labes are alsoa per- sistent element, and unfortunately the noisiest | and apparently most influential, especially in the field of literature. Woman must come to her own; she must heve full freedom; would that to-morrow were the day of it; but not if she is to be like the wite in the “Heavenly Twins,” not if she must take pattern by a “Yellow Aster” heroine, a “Key Notes' woman, a “Daughter of Music” or any of thestill worse modeis set up by the latest female propagandists of social and do- mestic reform, These writers of polemical fic- | tion favoring the new order of social license are at present more in_evidence than the rest | of them. Man, brutal Man, would be quite justified in appealing to his fuperior muscle to prevent the arrivalof this New Womas, or to ale her to prison, as_an enemy of the race, should she prove clever enough to break through the masculine guard. You see God built us for different tasks; and the true new woman knows it. Yet somehotv these yellow book girls makeail the noise, lead the van and get most of the attention. ‘There is our weak point” said anoble woman to me; she isone of the fine, strong spiritsin the work of lifting her sex to true freedom; “there is our chief obstacle. The divorced women, or ‘grass widows,’ the drunk- ards’ wives, and’ the disappointed old maids, are assuming leadership, taking it by vulgar force. This sets the men against usand gives them that irresistible weapon, ridicule. The women we most meed for leaders and followers are the happy wives and mothers. We want the women who have not lost faith in men, marriage and maternity, the three great M’s. 'Not that we have no sym. pathy with our unfortunate and unhappy sis- ters; but the woman with a grievance, a8 moan of woe in her throut and a score to settle with Fate is not & vote-maker. She irritates the men and they tell her that she should have had better luck. She seems to forget that it is from the men that our boon must come, and that they will never grant it while our dyspep- tics are to the fore. Who, indeed, cares a straw for what an unsuccessful person screams to possess?” After all, it may be that the New Woman isa E OF MATRIMONY. III—At ages 25 to 84 years eighty-slx women iy within Evelva mioNtiia oub obévery thea- sand husbandless women of these ages. 5 fo pay for my bonnet | recu: rring decimal, as the arithmeticlans would appearing at certain intervals, with a c atly shiiting value to civilization. If | she persists in being rather ornamental than useful, taken asa noun of multitude, we are the more her Geblor on the side of romance, 2 which oves 10 nod and sing, | and which, i ot always get “sweetness d light” to charm itself withal, gladly ac- 1d chic instead.” "Half way 1e gargoyle and a dainty i our social and domestic are. there is. perhaps, & mean-at which w Woman is aiming’; at all events she to0 be decorative, as she always has been, | 'and down the ages ahead of us she will doubt. Jess continue to charm, amuse and marry man, | proving herself to him & great luxury, but notebly expe m e Ensy Sayings. Let self be but the pliant brush; life will paint the picture. Heonly is my friend who can share hori- zons with me. If we really understand what is meant by Unity, we shall not refuse the hand and the eyes—the doer and the seer—share ana share alike. It is bitter to have believed love a gift of | the gods and found it only a game of mor- | tals. | " Society permits us to play tith fire—if only wedo not let her see our burnt fingers. | It'sagreat pity tosee so many people | without any children to educate them. _ Most of our sympathy is merely imita- tive. The great Weigher may well have other measures than my pint. It may be safely stated—even by one of that g1ft horses are never known | to breed. Many a man gets scared because he mis- takes his oscillations for those of the Uni- verse. | It's a poor mule that won’t work both | ways. | . It would seem to be a very illiberal hus- | band nowadays who would object to the en- | tertainment his wife gets out of being loved | by another fellow. i In setiling one's personal equation the denominator should not be too large. When almost gverybody is clever, the | dull will come to his 6wn. The intellect is usnally honest; it is the heart that lies. Some people remind one of a theater-flat —all length and breadth and no thickness. We all admire heroism, but we stick like bees to the sweets of kindness. Dororrea Luvdns, in Chap Book. {GOETHE-SCHILLER FEST. Great Interest Being Taken by the German Societies and More Funds Being Subseribed. Representatives of the various societies interested in the Goethe-Schiller festival met yesterday afternoon and reported a great deal of enthusiasm. The Suabian Verein, Mission Turn Verein and other similar associations were found to be taking a very active part. The Turn Verein Vorwaerts sent as dele- gates Paul Hamman and Carl Schwender. The Schiller Bund were represented by F. Hoffmann and H. Blumenthal. These gentlemen were made members of the central executive committee. Mr. Bertheau of the finance committee revorted contributions as follows: Received ng to October 11, $1337 81. Lonis Lisser, $10; Mrs. A. Z., $5; Mrs, N. Dohlandt, $20; C. Berthean, § Wieland Bros., $20° H. L. Simon, $25; M. Roth, $2 50. Total, $1430 31. Mr. Bundschu explained that an erro- neous impression prevailed that those who made subscriptions would thereby assume financial responsibilities for the expense of the festival, which he wished to correct, stating that such was not the case, an that there was no necessity to feel uneasy about the financial outcome of the festi- val, as he would, if necessary, assume all financial responsibility himself. He said there is so much confidence in the com- mittees having the matter in charge, and so much interest in the festival, that it would not only be asplendid success, but that the financial results would undoubt- | edly be in proportion to the efforts made. A. Becker reported that the breweries were willing to furnish all the beer re- quired during the festival, and Mr. Plage- mann stated that cigars to the amount of $700 had already been donated, and more could be had if required. Other commit- tees showed similar results. Morosco’s Opera-house offered all scenic and other stage properties that were required so far as they had them, without charge. The commiftees on souvenir, music and sing- ing reported everything in readinees, and the Austrian Association stated that they would take a lively interest in the festi- val, would dispose of 8 number of tickets, and probably make a donation in addition. It was voted to authorize the executive committee to have family tickets, good for six admissions, to be used either sepa- rately or co]lscliveig, 2t $2 each, placed on sale in the leading business places. ——— The island of Gothland has been cele- brating the two hundred and fiftieth anni- versary of its union with Sweden. EALTH LAWS. CONSTIFP.ATION. Costiveness, bowel complaints, constipation are the forerunners of other diseases. * * ¥ When constipated drink more water with your food. * % x I 1 * H When constipated chew your food finely, masticate slowly and be sure you use Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla. = * You can stop using Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla at any time and yet notice a de- cided improvement. * H Constipation is due to a lack of bile and is closely allied to liver trouble; Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla will cure this. * * X% If you allow the food to lodge in the small and large intestines for some time nature will soon have her way and you will suffer from diarrheea. 5 £ ¥ Clean the stomach, bowels and intestines with Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla. * H Peritonitis, a very serious affection, is often due to constipation, and would never have occurred had the patient used Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla. * e * Piles are sometimes due directly to constipation and could have been avoided had the patient used Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla. i Fistula and fissure and other rectal troubles are also due to constipation, so don’t be constipated when you can buy Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla. S Substitutes are due to the popularity of Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla, and these substitutes must be avoided if you would have Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla. EYY S EETEESTY O Dyspepsia and hot bread are an unhappy combination. 5 Dyspepsia and fats don’t coalesce. Dyspepsia’s greatest enemy is Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla When you suffer from dyspepsia eat slowly. When you suffer from dyspepsia eat just enough food to comfortably fill the stomach. Eat often. * * e Don’t take very hot or cold drinks if you have dyspepsia. Use Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla three times daily and follow bottle directions. * * * 3 Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla will clean the stomach, bowels and liver. Dyspeptics, avoid sardines, French dishes, grease, fat, and use Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla. . Dyspeptics, eat steaks and chops, roast beef, mutton and veal—avoid pork. * B * * Dyspeptics, use Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla, but don’t use a substitute. .t -4 * * * ¥ Do you suffer with gases in the stomach? Take Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla. Have you a feeling of lead in the stomach after eating? Take Joy's Vegetable Sarsaparilla. Dyspeptics, avoid a substitute, LIVER TROUBL.ES. When the liver is disordered keep the body wasm and wear heavy flannels. * E When the liver pains you avoid malt liquors and rich pastry foods. % x ¥ When your liver is out of order take Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla—it reaches the liver in an hour. * H * 2% 3 Exercise moderately—walk, ride or dance. 5 H » ¥ White or yellow-coated tongue is about the first symptom of disordered liver— check it with Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla. Never sit and brood and fret when your liver is disordered. Go into company. * * Loss of appetite shows a liver disorder. % % Regain your appetite with the moderate use of Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla. - Too much beer means too much bile, too much bile means torpid liver, sick head- aches, pains in sides. Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla, then, means active liver, no sick headaches, no pains in sides and regularly working bowels. You can then drink deer, water or wine—as you like. H * Py £ % IV—At ages 85 years and older twelve wom en ‘marry within twelve months out of every thou- saud husbandiess womea Of these ages. Clear up your complexion and regain the wonted brilliancy of your eyes by the use of Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla. A substitute is as bad as a bad liver—don’t have either—take Joy’s Vegetable Sarsaparilla.