The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 29, 1895, Page 15

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 1895. 15 CGOSSIP FOR AND THE MEN. WOMEN The Latest Wrinkles in Fashionable Apparel for People in the Swim. One feelsa decided disinclination when the sun 1 shining with such brightness and warnth to discuss furs, velvets and the latest weaves of cloth, but it would scarcely lo to continue des lawns, muslins and many of us are siill wearing, when autumn | is on the wing, and winter so near at | hand. One suthority bright the coorings of the new sil The parrot and the macaw are our rivals, and even their'plumage will hardly equal the bril- Mancy of our gowns this year.” The domrinant feature of the new silk modes is cashmerian colors and cashmerian ‘terns play a most extensive role. Vel- , concerning i, %2/// FETE DRESS FROM WORTH, PARIS. [Reproduced from an engraving published by Harper & Brothers.) Zz % vets will be worn, but the most distinctly 1d has a brightly tinted floral chine nd where the blurred colors sink into 1 other, overlaid with a white velvet conventional design giving a soft and novel effect which ischarming. Velvets and velveteens are also shown cov- ered with a large bold pattern printed and generally of vivid orange and red tones, but the pattern is always cash- merian in design. Quite the latest silks are to be had in our stores, but as yet the newest velvets have not arrived. Some patterns of quite dif- ferent styles of silk have solid grounds of color, covered with a lace-lixe design in black all over them, the ground either chameleon, which means three shades shot | together, or two tones only. Stripes are much in vogue—that is, the perpendicular ones, not the norzontal. attempt to bring the latter in failed mpletel Taffeta chameleons are in or in Paris. ade like wild geranium, will make A pretty taffeta shown tripes, with which mingle v effects, lines or stripes of e flowers. combinations and mixtures of were the delight of our grand- s are much sought after for winter r the “arralgamations of ing. Blue, pink and string color are to of fashion. with self bro- | pretty, with eing warmly wel- ses being madae of them. | M h has had One is of orial poplin, hav- ypearance of terry veivet. an extremely fine rib is | , as is also a costume of pale 1t the most novel one is a brocaded the pattern of which is silvery plumes upon & lemon-colored POF nes, the pretty hip trimmings, n basques, and the Louis XVI will hold their own. that Marie Antoinette, Princess Lamballe and Mme. de Pompadour are to be the i iration for many winter toilettes, as at in New York “The Queen’s is being given at Daly’s Theater. mounted in a superb manner. , the star, dresses magniticently qu ] present Collars The Mrs. Potte as do also all the members of the court, their gowns being the richest confections of Worth and Felix, and it must be re- membered that the production of this masterpiece in Paris caused the revival of many long-neglected fashions remarkabl for their great artistic beauty. Vogue’s Paris correspondent, in_one of her latest letters, tells us about a visit she is paving at a most delightful old chateau. Her hostess ‘‘had an idea which will bring | about, I am certain, a speedy and absolute change in the fashions of to-day. Tired of seeing her feminine friends scrupulously follow the modes imposed by our great Parisian couturiers she made up her mind that at least duri: a portion of her jour’ at her chateau she would feast her ey upon something different than the eternal godet kirt, puffed sleeves | and ‘tutti quanti’ In order to attain this fortunate result she sent out invita- tions to ten of her prettiest and most ele- gant friends asking them to spend a week at Etiolles, and to personify during the en- tire time of their stay there, at least in what concerns their costume, their favorite heroine in fiction or history. I need not:| add that these original invitations were enthusiastically accented, and at the pres- ent moment we are a funny crowd here, although a very good one to look at. | Among others therearea Diana, Vernon, a Marquise de Pompadour, a Marie Antoin- ette, a Charlotte Corday, a Queen Elizabeth, a Carme -, a Marguerite and even a Jeanne | d’Arc—yp rsonifying the new woman of | that period.” | TR | Now that not a few of eur clothes are modeled after the gowns worn by Marie Antoinette and the Pompadour, I am not surprised at hearing from an Eastern friend about a Pompadour supper which was served after a dance at which many costumes of that period were worn, not only by the stately matrons, but by the | buds as well. The table was all garlands of smilax and pink roses, with here and there a touch of blue. Supper tables all in white and gold, with just IEE necessary amount of green, are most effective, and will probably enjoy a large share of popularity this winter. I am delighted to see that East the fash- | jonable set are awakening to a realization | of the fact that our women do not dress | appropriately for church, and one writer thinks that, considering we have the most igid restricticns concerning the proper vns to be worn on all other occasions, it vigh time to consider an appropriate garb_for church goers. Such toilettes should be noticeable for their quiet sim- plicity; the most exquisite materials can be used, and the best of modists can fashion them, but the American woman should no longer wear her finest and most dressy garment to devotions. The Countess de Castellane (nee Gould) is remarked for her simple and exquisite costhmes. She has worn many white alpaca dresses this summer. I have just seen the announcement of the marriage of Miss Klizabeth Barnewell to Frederick Coutts of Providence, R. I., and it recalls the fact that three years ago this young lady, with her friend, Miss Helen Lawrence, established herself in the millinery and dressmaking business in New York on Fifteenth street, near Broad- way. BShe preferred to better her financial affairs instead of regretting a lost fortune. Their efforts were crowned with complete Dark shades, with a sparse | 1 do not doubt | do not interest themselves in such truly feminine pursuits, instead of leading nar- row, starved lives at home. In my lastarticle I told you a good deal about the important part chenille is to lay in miilinery, and so a word o e. Tnless you can find something unusually stylish direct from Paris of this material let me counsel you not to purchase if you are going to indulge in only two hats, as chenille is already far too common. Quite charming is & black velvet hat from Virot, made to set well forward on | tissue-paper if you desire things to arriv. in proper condition, and on no accoun! allow your bag to remain packed a moment | v, a8 nothing ruins longer than nec i [ than allowing them | clothes more rapidly | to remain packe: | Men should never hang up their clothes, | and suspenders should always be removed | over night from the trousers. is_a short-necked, beetled-browed man, with curly black hair, He has a singularly stilted manner. He is 52 years of age and has been composing for thirty-five of them, having produced oratorios, ballads and symphonies without number, not to men- tion the comic operas for which he and Gilbert are celebrated. He keeps a secre- tary for the sole purpose of refusing re- quests for his autograph. He 18 not desti- tute of humor and occasionally tells a good story. C.C. ABOUT THE OHILDREN. Views of a Lady Who Has Given the Subject Much Thought. Dr. Mary Wood-Allen writing in ‘Womankind of breaking children of the habit of whining, says: In this case, I should say that the first thing to do is to secure the cordial co-operation of every other adult member of the family. Let there be united purpose never to give to the child that for which he whines, even if it would be given to him otherwise. Give him to understand this in a firm but gentle way, and if possible secure his ap- proval of the idea. Tell him kindly of the evil of the habit, the unhappiness it causes him and every one else, show him that it is creating a habit for the future years and tell him you are all going to help him to overcome it. Let him feel that your re- fusal to grant his whining requests are to aid him, not to punish him. Then steadily, persistently, sweetly and firmly adhere to this policy. Neveronce yield to his insistence, but always recognize his at- tempts to meet your wishes in a pleasant manner. If the thing he wants is something he should not have, tell bim so, and assure him that no amount of whining will secure it, and then let him whine. ait, don’t scold, don’t tantalize, don’t appear to be either disturbed or moved by his whining. If what he desires is something he can have, and he whines for it, assure him that as soon as be asks pleasantly he can have it, and then give him time to make up his mind to be pleasant. We are too apt o drive our chiidren rapidly from one rame of mind to another. Wait patiently, and if possible help him by diverting his | thoughts to something agreeable. In a | few minutes he will probably get control | of himself. It is ofen a very touching sight to witness the efforts of children to gain self-control, sometimes under the stings of the tantalizing reproaches of their elde: | In New York dinner invitations may be | issued three weeks before the dinner, but | | never later than one week previous, and | such invitation should be answered by the forehead, with the brim turned up at | return of mail when possible, and at any The mother says that this child is nervou He should never hear this said of himseli. He will soon learn to use the expression as an excuse for naughtiness. Train him to regular habits of life, secure MISS JAMBLIN’S WEDDING DRESS. [From the London Queen.] the back. The low crown is trimmed all around with black ostrich tips, at the base of which rests a wreath of nasturtiums. Felt hats in Alpine and sailor shapes are being shown, and arz invariably trimmed with wings. The brims are slightly broader than they were last year, and they are worn well on the head. MARCELLA. T ST FASHIONS FOR MEN. A well-known beaun, famous for always doing what is correct, says he would not even go on a fishing tour without hiseven- ing clothes, as he might at any time meet acquaintances who would invite him? to dine with them and even their remark, ““Come just as you are”’ will not make him feel especially comfortable, if on arriving in a tweed suit he found some other guest correctly attired, for although women may say all sorts'of polite things to make men feel at ease under such circumstances, they appreciate the compliment paid them by the Tuxedo or swallow-tail. The Tuxedo coat is more worn than ever at present. I have tains muc! frequentl; boue and i‘}ust read an article which con- excellent advice for men who pay short visits away from have to pack their own port- manteau. Among other things the author says: “In packing a dress suit the coat should be folded so that the outside is in- side. It should be ke})t if possible in one fold, in the middle of the back, after the sleeves and wings have been folded, so that they will not be wrinkled. Brown wrap- 1ng or white tissue paper, such as is used or putting up bundles in stationary shops, should be placed between the folds. This prevents the slightest wrinkles.”” The custom of always carrying a dress- ing-case, so much in vogue in England, is not in such favor in this country, it really necessitates the poscession of a valet, the case being very heavy. Every article in your portmanteau success. It is a pity more gentlewomen should be.most carfully wrapped in white rate during the nexttwenty-four hours. It would make entertaining far easier if men would observe such simple rules for invitations received, which meet with no recognition by attendance. Excuse sent or an after call should never be repeated, for any one ignoring such a civility is not fit to re on any ome’s list. Men who imagine that they surround themseives with an air of interesting inde- pendence by neglecting every social ob- ligation, should be disillusionized and made to live in the backwoods until they | awaken to the realization of the fact that society has no use for those who are un- acquainted with the meaning of the word etiquette. A recent visitor at 'lronville remarks: The men displayed a preference for white, and appeared, most of them, in white sack coats, white trousers, white shoes and white caps with black visors. The tendency is for verv little disglay in men’s attire. Modesty prevails, rather than evidences of large expenditure. At this same resort one Henry Parker, hailing from New York, and accompanied by his wife,” says the same writ.r, “{rou ht with him a veritable buckboard, one of the purest type of the article found hitherto only in the wilds of New England and along the rocky coast of the Atlantic. That it created a sensation goes without saying. Nothing of the sort had been seen in'these paris before, and its advent was a signal for promenaders to stop and gaze wfth unconcealed surprise.” The announcement has been received with much pleasure in England of the ap- pointment of Lord Wolseley as com- mander-in-chief in place of the Duke of C?mbridge, but the appointment is not for life. Mark Twain has an accomplished wife who is utterly at a Joss to see any fun in his books. He is fond of walking, smokes a corncob pipe and wears glasses, Sir Arthur Sullivan, whose new opera, “The Chieftain,”” has just been produced, | for him simple, wholesome food, see that he gets plenty of sleep, that his nerves are not disturbed by teasing by others, and in all probability he will cease to manifest nervousness, especially if he never hears older people talk about being nervous, Moral suasion may do very well for older chiidren, but I never could” appreciate its powers during babyhood. Iread the ex- perience recently of a mother who wasa strong believer in the “Come away, baby; there’s a darling, now do” theory, unti her own little one began to creep about. Like other babies he investigated every- thing within reach, being especially at- tracted by the books which he could reach and pull to the floor. For awhile the mother patiently re- Rlaced the books and carried baby away. ust as often he went back again, until patience ceased to he a virtue. Then theory gave way to something more prac- tical—the mischievous little"hands were punished — and the books were leit in peace. SHERER A HOW THEY DIFFER. Man is a creature of castiron habits: woman adapts herself to circumstances; this is the foundation of the moral differ- ence between them. A man does not attempt to drive a nail unless he has a hammer; a woman does not hesitate to utilize anything, from the heel of a boot to the back of a brush. A man considers a ' corkscrew absolutely necessary to open a bottle; a woman at- tempts to extract the cork with the scis- sors; if she does not succeed readily, she pushes the cork in the bottle, since the essential thing is to get at the fluid. Shaving is the only use to which a man puts a razor; a woman employs it for a chiropodist’s purposes. . When a man writes everything must be in apple-pie order; pen, paper and ink must be just so,a profound silence must reign while he accomplishes this impor- tant function. A womaun gets any sheet of paper, tears it perhaps from a book or vortfolio, sharpens a pencil with the scis- sors, puts the paper on an old atlas, crosses her feet, balances herself on her chair and confides her thoughts to paper, changing from pencil to pen and vice versa from time to time, nor does she care if the chil- 1i;ren romp or the cook comes to speak to er. A man storms if the blotting-paper is not conveniently near; a woman dries the ink by blowing “on it, waving the paper in the air, or holding it near a lamp or fire. A man drops a letter unhesitatingly in the box; a woman re-reads the address, assures herself that the envelope is sealed, the stamp secure, and then throws it vio- lently into the box. A man can cut a book only with a paper- cutter; a woman deftly inserts a hairpin and the book is cut. For a man “good-by’’ signifies the end of a conversation and the moment of his de- parture; for a woman it is the beginning of a new chapter, for it is just when they are taking leave of each other that women thinks of the most important topics of con- versation. A woman ransacks her brain trying to mend a broken object; a man puts’it aside and forgets that for which there is no rem- edy. Which is the superior?—Minnie J. Conrad, in October Lippincott’s. e AN ENGLISH WEDDING GOWN. One of the most charming wedding dresses described by the London Queen of current date was that worn by Miss Beatrice Edith Jamblin on the occasion of her marriage with Edward Richard ‘Wetherall in St. Paul’s Church, Padding- ton. The Queen says the bride was ele- gantly dressed in rich cream brocade, the bodice being trimmed with pearl and gold passementerie, and lovely ostrich trim- ming definmg the yoke of the most becom- ing gown. Her court train, which fell in graceful folds from both shoulders, was of perfectly plain duchesse satin. In her hair she wore sprays of real orange blos- soms and a Limerick lace yeil. Her orna- ments were a diamond initial brooch, the gift of the bridegroom, a diamond, supphire, and pearl butterfly and diamond swallows. Her bouquet, the gift of the bridegroom, was of rare exotics. Her train was carried by the youngest brides- maid, who, with two other of the tride- gioom’s sisters, wore ivory-white alpaca costumes with yokes of maize-colored silk, elbow sleeves, and epaulettes of maize silk and white chiffon edged with pearl em- broidery. Their white fancy straw hats were trimmed with white silk ribbon and ostrich feathers. They carried shower bouquets of yellow roses and wore dia- mond initial “brooches, the gifts of the bridegroom. FOREIGN COMMEROE. Uncle Sam’s Showing in the Markets of the World. The Bureau of Statistics, Treasury De- partment, has issued 1ts statement of financé, commerce and immigration for the fiscal year ended June 30, 1895, corrected to July 3. Compared with the figures of the previous year, the statement makes the following showing of the foreign business of the United States: IMPORTS OF MERCHANDISE. 1894, 1895. Articles of food and live animals.........$278,653,567 $235,728,539 Articles in crude con- dition_for domestic manufacture......... 138,922,735 Articles Manufactured— For mechanic arts. For consumption Luxuries, etc. 101,119,810 73.656,655 188,197,141 Totals. Per cent on lst ... 57.58 EXPORTS OF MERCHANDISE. Domestic products of .. $628,363,038 $5583,215,317 17183718484 183,685,743 20,449,598 18,309,814 28,010,958 28,576,285 4,261,944 5,328,807 4,400,944 4,171.974 Totals... $868,204,937 $795,387,890 Foreign: Free of duty. $8,841,180 $7,476,900 Dutiable. . 14,094,455 6,644,448 Totals. $22,935,636 $14,141,857 GOLD AND SILVER IMPORTS AND EXPORTS. $35.148,734 66,131,183 B 9,552,520 47,227,317 Exports. Tons, 1895. Vessels entered, sailing.. 4, 4,485,827 Vessels entered. steam..15, 15,596,751 Vesscls cleared, sailing. . 4,7 4,466,141 Vesscls cleared, steam...15,506,052 15,312,986 IMMIGRATION. 1894, 1895. Immigrants arrived, male....184,006 152,270 Female. ... 127,606 115,866 . .—— Kidnaped Her Children. Mrs. John L. Gessell has let the officers of the Humane Society in a quandary. On Thursday she swore to a complaint to force her husband to pay $10 & month for the support of their two children at the Salvation Army Home. Yesterday she kidnaped the childrem trom the home and their present whereabouts is unknown. Gessell is a clam-digger who re- ceives a Government pension of $12 a month, Before desertiug his wife he was accustomed to beat her savagely, and on one occasion he struek her so hard in the mouth thet her teeth injured his hand. Blood-poisoning set in, and he'is now minus a portion of that member. oo SosSSsSseE( “Polly, put the kettle Tea= on, i wet ait have Kettles! Two of our best designs in 5 o’clock Tea-Koattles go on Special Saving Sale for Monday, Tuesday and Wednesdav only. Our $2.50 Kettle at SL.75, and our $3.00 Kettle at $2.1O—and ‘Wednesday night ends it. The Kettles and Lamps are heavy polished brass or copper, and the stands are hand- forged black wrought-iron. And they are usetul for other things besides tea; just light that quick-heating, asbestos, alcohol lamp, and in a few minutes you have hot water. ‘We have just received the finest lot of Tea-Kettles and Art Metal Goods that ever came to town—and every piecesold directto youat WHOLESALE PRICE. THAT BIG CHINA STORE— A Quarter of a Block Below Shreve’s. WANGENHEIM, STERNHEIM & CO., 528 and 530 Market St. 27 and 29 Sutter St., BELOW MONTGOMERY JISCSoSSeesees R The most certsin snd safe Pain Re: . In ‘watercures Summer Complaints, mmmun- ‘burn, Sour Stomac, Flatulence, Qolic, Nausea, NEW TO-DAY. HARRIET HUBBARD AYER'S Recamier Toilet Preparations JULIE RECAMIER. THE ORIGINAL OF THIS PICTURE RE- TAINED HER EXQUISITE COMPLEX- ION THROUGH THE USE OF RE- CAMIER CREAM UNTIL HER DEATH AT EIGHTY. No woman can be beantiful or even CLEANLY in appearance whose face is marred by pimples, blackheads, blotches, freckles or other imper- fections. These are the only skin remedies indorsed by physicians. THEY ARE PURE. WHERE DID YOU EVER SEE SUCH INDORSEMENTS BEFORE ? FROM MADAME ADELINA PATTI-NICOLINL Crar 08 CASTLE, Oct. 18. “MY DEAR Mus. AYER—There never has been anything equal in merit (o the Recamier.Prepara- tions; my skin is so immensely improved by their use. I need not dread old age while these magic inventions of yours exist. Iuse Cream, Balm and Lotion every day of my life. Recamier Soap also is perfect. I shall néver nse any other. I hear that the Princess of Wales is delighted” with the Recamier Preparations. I am convinced they are the greatest boon ever invented. Affectionately yours, ADELINA PATT ICOLINL" “I consider them a luxury and necessity t0 every woman.” CORA URQUHART POTTER. “Most refreshing and beneficial and FAR supe- rior to any others.” FANNY DAV “The perfection of toilet articles SARAH BERNHARDT. “The Recamier Preparations are absolutely PEERLESS. Ishall aiways use them.” HELENA MODJESKA. “T use the Recamiers religiously and believe them ESSENTIAL to_the toflet of every woman who desires a fair skin.” LILLIE LANGTRY. “I unqualifiedly recommend them as the very best in existence.” CLARA LOUISE KELLOGG. Recamier Cream, for tan, sunburn, pimples, etc. Price $1 50. Recamier Balm, a beautifier, pure and sim- ple. Price $1 50. Recamier Almond Lotion, for freckles, moth and discolorations. Price $1 50. Recamier Powder, forthe toilet and nursery. Will stay on and does not make the face shine. Prices—Large boxes $1. small boxes 50c. Recamier Soap, the best in the world, Prices— Scented b0c, unscented 25c. SPECIAL NOTICE. Refuse Substitutes. Send 2-cent stamp for sample of Toilet Powder, Pamphiet and Bargain offer. Mail orders promptly HARHIET HUBBARD AYER, 131 West 31st St., NEW YORK CITY. NOTARY PUBLIC. HARLES H. PHILLIPS, ATTORNEY-AT Jaw and Notary Public, 635 Market st., 0ppo- site Palace Hotel, Residence 1620 Fellst. Tele- Phone 570. Lace Curtain Lengths PRy Low Prices. SPECIAL SALE THIS WEEK 5000 Manufacturers’ Samples of LAGE GURTAINS! Every One Different. These Curtain Samples are one= half of a Lace Curtain, from 134 to 134 yards in length, comprising some of the choicest and finest designs in Irish Point, Swiss and Tambour. These goods will be sacrificed for * B5OC mach. 7 5 C macn. B1L.OO macn: B125 macn. BLBO maon Special Note. As this sale is composed of but one of each pattern, an early call is advised to secure the choicest designs. Just Out. Our new Catalogue for fall seagon, 1895. Copies mailed free upon epplication. T0 OUR PATRONS IN THE INTERIOR Wo take ploasure In snnouncing that our new catalogue No. 15 is now ready. Great pains and care have been taken in making this Catalogue more complete than any previous edition. By means of its assistance those living at a distance from San Francisco can do their shopping with the same ease and satisfaction asif they were shop- ping in person. They are mailed frec, Send fora copy- NEWMAN & LEVINSON, Largest Fancy Dry Goods House in America 125, 127, 129, 131 Kearny Street. 209 Sutter Street. ONDER 000000000000 000O00 D B EEE08558388083 % :MILLINERY# LATEST from Paris and New York. E ©® T+ 10241028 & Hats, Laces, Flowers, THE LARGEST STOCK BRANCH—899 MARKET ST. IO O R A it Fall and Win= ter Novelties Feathers, Ribbons, ETC., E Ever Dispiayed in the City. Market St. desfpipide s dpdpiduddododfe s dsdedu s ddsdsis o e WHALEBONE. PACIFIC STEAM WHALING COMPANY'S Genuine Shell Whalehone “Orca Brand.” Specially Prepared and Selected for the DRESS G0ODS AXD CORSET TRADE. All Sizes. Every Package Guaranteed. One trial will convince you of its merits and superiority over all other brands in the market. LADIES See that your dressmakers do not Lse inferior grades or substi- NONE EQUAL T0 OUR “ORCA BRAND.” Never breaks, most elastic, lasts longest, cheap- est and best. For sale by all the leading dry-goods houses Office and Factory, 30 California Street, SAN FRANCISCO, AN OLD LIGHT RENEWED. A UNIQUE DEVICE. A Candlestick, A B-Sun Lamp Chimney, Make the DAISY LANTERN! Will Withstand a Hurrieage. Cannot Blow It Out With Hat or Fan. For Sale by All Whole- sale and Retail Mer- chants. Sample by mail. KENNEDY’S Novelty A - Oakland, Cal. s CUT RATE CABINET, $2.00 A DOZEN. MORSE'S, 916 MARKET STREET. A SURE PREVENTIVE FOR CHOLERA. HIGHLAND SPRINGS, Lake County, Cal. A Comfortable Winter Resort at Rea- sonable Rates. Easy of Access. Altitude, 1700 feet. Pure Moun- tain Water and Air. 'The Best Mineral Water and Baths on Earch. EQUABLECLIMATE-FREEFROM ALL CHOLERAIC GERMS. THE BEST PLACE IN CALIFORNIA TO SPEND THE WINTER. For full particulars call at city office, 316 Mont- gomery street, or address J. CRAIG, Manager. IVY LODGE, 117 Soquel Avenue, Santa Cruz, Cal,, SELECT PRIVATE BOARDING. Large grounds, fruits and flowers; central; firste class accommodations. LAUREL DELL HOTEL, )N LAUREL DELL LAKE (FORMERLY Lower Blue Lake). A new hotei—the most artistic in the county. The Tush is over. Rooms can now be had and you will be treated.well. Boat- ing, bathing, fishing, etc., are among the many amusements. Rates, $8 to $12 per week. Address H. WAMBOLD, Beriha P. O., Lake Coanty. REDUCED RATES, At Saratoga Springs, Lake County, Ca ACHELOR P. 0.—FOR FALLAND WINTER. Large, airy, hard-finished rooms, en suite. Ac- commodations first-class. Hot mineral baths. ‘Write for particulars to J. CONNER. Proprietor. WEEK'S NEWS FOR 5 CENTS—THR ‘WEEKLY CALL. in wrapper, for mailing. i