The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 8, 1895, Page 15

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 1895 i This week I expected to begin with elab- | orate descriptions of some of the creations ‘ wern at Del Monte’s ball, but have changed | my mind, a: you would simply be bored if | 1did, asno especial novelties we en. However, what can one expect? This is the mid-season, and the new fashions are | slowly—very slowly—reaching us. One! gown from Doucet was worn by a matron | with quite the loveliest complexion im- | aginable, and the skirt was worth a| modisie’s going all the way to Monterey | to gaze upon, the cut being most unusual. | It appeared to be almost as wide at the | top asat the bottom, and was laid in small | pleats all around the waist, which had the | drawing-string effect which I have before mentioned; but instead of this fullness having a clumsy effect it was exceedingly graceful and pretty, and other gowns fresh ! from Paris now in New York are said to be designed in the same w. and, wonder of wonders, it is announced that stout women can wear them as well as those who are | slender, there being no real massing of material, it all having been cut out from under. Now, about the other gowns. There was the fair, dainty young girl in palest blue mousseline de soie over taffeta, and the very blase, faded blonde in a gown of dead white, which strangely emphasized the coming wrinkles, although it was a | chic, well-made gown. The trouble was, the gown was modeled for a girl of 18; the wearer will never be 31 again, and it was no fault of madame’s that she was so un- fittingly garbed Miss Blase is famous for insisting on ing inappropriate cos- | tumes. Foolish woman, I wonder if she ever will look in her glass and see what ve known for so long a time. Sts ¢ esight it not, that a profoundly learned as not been written on this topic be some day, you know. Now ma; before leaving the blondes let me add that noone was handsomer than the tall, stately woman, in her rich and queenly robes, who is so devoted a mother and whose home of graystone is in the Western Ad- dition. Now, I might go on and talk about ‘‘a blue dress, a green dress, a pink | dress and a yellow one,” but not having been there to see I cannot ascertain that any were extraordinary. Most were iresh and perfectly new, which remark does not_ hold good when duck and pique dresses, so gener- , ~are under discussion, for of the women seemed to have a at dread of a large laundry bill and wore gowns that were positively far from fresh on more than one but before 1 z this topic I must tell you thata s quite stunning in a con- in, adorned with a singie atin, which should at med a “bat bow,” so much did bie one; the bodice was of the black silk chiffon over white satin; iack satin ribbon sprang s, one on each side, and ily against the white satin were beautified with some ery. A beltof jet encir- and the toilet was com- back from this “0dd, is finds those | d unaffected who | those whose only crest a cooking-stove or a e the rudest stare and contempt for us who are in | 1dent on our own exertions clihooa?” This is a great and blic, but the man who looks a pedigree when he buys a carcely consistent when he says 10t care a rap for it in people. He e, but thinks he makes himself 11 honor to the men or women who »m menial positions rise, through honest deavor, to affluence if they have good and do not provoke by uncouth con tand much staring amused inquiri o their former station in life. 1 as t an _here, who has more than I know of to say in ridicule of One wom San Francisco and her_people, would be | rably surprised if she only knew t several are aware that her father ue he drove well. She has never told, this remark makes her -more cau- ertions Marcella will have done a good Sunday’s work. to. tious in her as: What a pretty girl she is, was the com- | m nt made a few days agowhen a Nob ill belle entered a Jackson-street car. | She is tall and slender, her complexion milk and roses, and her brownish hair ri delicate perfums of violets. simply means that her gloves and laces repose in drawers in which are tiny bags of orris, but it adds to her charm. and of rich black satin, and ber waist f ith a hair line of black through it. deep fichu effect was carried out in butter- colored lace, and here and there, in exactly the right places, were tiny rosettes of the silk. Long gloves of yellowish kid and a | black straw hat with black feathers com:- pleted a very attractive costume—one suitable for early autumn lunch parties, and let me advise you all to the winter’s campaign a similar skirt. much. The large stylish bows worn at the back of the neck at present are called in Eng- land “Follow-me-laddie” bows. An important and welcome piece of news comes from Paris, and that is that capes shall continue to be in vogue. The full, plain, all-round capes which reached the knee or just below the waist last win- ter will still be seen, but they will have a powerful rival in another form of cape, copied partially from the shoulder capes worn by the Medici kings, for it has three godet pleats in the center of the back and meets in front, whereas the kingly garment fell only in the back. Velvet is to be the most popular fabric and hand embroideries of jet will figure on the pleats as well as on the fronts. One such cape, as far as cut goes, has already been worn here by a slender, graceful young matron, but in place of velvet the material used was the finest broadcloth, the pleats being of light fawn color, richly embroidered in black jet. The remainder of the cape was black, }ined with a changeable taffeta, shading from fawn to mauve. The effect of the garment was most excellent. Velours du Nord will continue to be a favorite material for capes, and they will almost all be trimmed or embroidered with peculiar stripes from the neck to the edge. One model is almost covered with guipure embroidery, the collar being worked inside and out, so that it could be worn up or down. This was in black; but a still jonger one, ample in its folds, was fawn- colored cloth, lined with water-striped velvet and bordered with brown-shaded marabout and curled coque. The fawn cloth, from the neck to this feather border- ing, was covered with broad stripes of fine braid, worked into a close design, a van- dvke of braiding also heading the feather bordering, which was repeated at the neck. | green, black, etc., and . the astrachan lines ove a stage instead of owning the lordly | te she is so fond of alluding to; but it | r, what the steeds were attached | 2 p- | ples in delightful little waves around her | sbapely head, and about ber is always tne | I know it | On | this occasion her skirt was of the latest cut | most becoming shade of blue taffeta | Al urchase for | : It will be quite invaluable if you go out | the new garments begin to be worn, and ostrich feathers will be the favorites. They have been used with good results on a | black velvet cape richly’ worked with up- right lines of cord embroidery intermixed with beads and sequins, pretty mouifs, conventional floral being introduced be- tween the stripes. It was lined with satin, and bordered everywhere with black ostrich-feather bands. In some of the most costly capes, cord and jet embroidery are to form panels carried “(P the fronts and the center of the back and united by scallops at the edge above the border. One authority states: “The new ma-| | terials for antumn wear are chiefly in | | mohair — mohairs coteles and mohairs | boueles, with an introduction of stripes of | astrachan, sometimes in black, sometimes | in color, The effect of the colored astra- | |chan is original and pleasing.” The | | grounding of the mohairs is dark, but the | surface is of three or four different shades, mostly gold, blue, and brown, mauve, will be of various tones. Velvet sleeves will be worn with these costumes. Itis Egedlctgd that repped materials will again fashionable. Faile, white silk or poult de soie and mobhair are equally in favor for wear at Newport and Bar Harbor, the mohairs of finest quality being made us as elaborate- ly as the richest silks. White lace trims the waists of such gowns very effectively and forms full gathered fronts extending only to the belt. The favorite style for the waists is the godet basque, giving the effect of double godets in yery pronounced curves. The sleeves are elbow puffs of the silk gracefully draped by choux of satin. Loose lower sleeves that are easily movable are of the fabric smoothly covered with lace. With these short white kid gloves closely buttoned are seen, while if pre- ferred elbow sleeves and long gloves can be worn as a change. With such toilets as I have described exquisite collets of lace and chiffon are frequently seen, adding greatly to their chic. One consisted of a mammoth ruche around the neck studded with roses, and falls on an accordion-pleating of chame- | teon gauze of very rich hues, blending rose, green and pink. A large bow of taffeta at | the back completed it. Perhaps every season the same number of beautiful silks and gauzes are placed on the market, but it does seem as though | never before have we seen quite such a va- riety. The Persian silks shown in waist | lengths of six yards only at one of our | large stores are very attractive, but I did | not allow my admiration to lead me into | purchasing one on ascertaining that each pattern was $25. Still I confess, after in- vestigating them, it is difficult to feel any | special enthusiasm over simpler weave: | at Jeast for a few days, as they show a truly | beautiful blending of colors, and the quality | | of this silk is very excellent, as indeed it shouid be for the price mentioned; but it seems positively small when one realizes | | that dealers could not supply the New | York market last winter with the brocades | 1 have frequently described at $25 per yard. | | LA e | d effects will Persian color- A sample piece For evening dresses cre; | be in vogue this winter an ings are in great demand. of such crepe brought out here, just suffi- cient for & gown, was promptly purchased by one of our young matrons and it is so lovely that it merits a description. It shows a_unique design quite indescribable in anodd purphsh-pink shade, intermin- gled with tones of green and yellowish | white on a dead white zown. This is to | be made over a deliciousl{ pretty pale | shade of mauve taffeta. Rare lace will | trim _the bodice and orchids matching the | pinkish tone will appear on one shoulder | | and at the waist line. The skirt will be | quite plain in the exterior, but many frills | of lavender and green silks will adorn the | inside. I understand that one more gown of this | | special weave of silk is to be had here, but | n place of the purple-pink tone is a clear | shade of blue. I hope the purchaser of this other pattern will have the good taste to have it made over white silk, as if made of blue the whole effect might be spoiled. | 1 can imagine no more charming gown for | | a fair-haired blue-eyed belle. | Chameleon colorings are much the rage, and in thin fabrics are most attractive. | Mauve with blue is one of the new com- | binations, hailing direct from Paris. Many | are striped with satin, some quite widely, others in very fine lines. The newest gauzes have the effect of being tucked. Creped stripes, very wide, are on smooth gauzes, and are covered with large dots | as though embroidered. Flowered and figured gauzes have the grounds strewn | with polka dois. Mousseline de soie looks like another material when covered with the new and rem arkable designs of open embroidery in | every conceivable color. 1n crepe dechine open effects are in the market, but the newest of all show figures raised in em- broidery, but not cut out. White mousse- line de “soie is almost covered with em- broidered colored flowers. Painted chiffons are so beautiful that the plain ones have been completely banished. Yellow or butter color remains, after constant use during the spring and sum- mer, a prime favorite. Glace mirror velvet and all the shot velvet, which were so well received last winter, will be again seen in the new colors. Rich ribbons of peau de soie will be among the new importations for winter hats, but until it reaches our market taffeta ribbons will do as substitutes. Iam sorry to say that one of my abomi- nations, peacock blue, is again in favor. Peau de soie is chiameleon tints will be much used tor calling and dinner gowns; ;he quality with a plain surface is pre- erred. Raspberry red is one of the new shades, | s is also_scabreuse. a refined reddish pur- | ple. Violet, iris and periwinkle shades, luet, mordore, brown and clerical purple are all shown and a new blue called “Ben- gal” is said to rival the Bengal rosein beauty. Our dainty little rosettes are to be huge affairs this winter on schoolgirls’ hats. Newport is now in “the full tide and swing of the season,” and the Vanderbilt ball,dgweq about three weeks ago, was a grand affair and is much talked about since, although so many things of a social nature have since occurred at this gayest of gay resorts. Mrs. Vanderbilt has’an unassum- ing figure and on the great occasion she Wwas gorgeous to behold in a gown of gray and pink and silver, but many of her guests wore more beautifu! diamonds than her own. Miss Vanderbilt is described as having been ‘‘quite charming” in a very simple frock of most exquisite white organdie over i‘:ale blue silk, with ribbons of the same shade. She did not wear a single jewel or ornament. Mrs. John Astor was one of the guests noted for her brilliant beauty, and she is said never to have looked better, for her costume of pink satin was profusely embroidered in’gold. On her dark bair she wore a tiara of dia- monds and a maj ificent crescent of large diamonds adorr: her corsage. One thing is positiye that everything will yield to feather garnitures assoon as Mrs. Cass Canfield, one of the most at- tractive young married women in this set, R wore_white brocade aud her much-ad- wmired tiara of diamonds. A string of these encircled her throat. Mrs. Herman Oelrichs ap&enred in an exquisite creation in pale pink, and she as we?l as Miss Fair received much attention. Miss Hoffman was admired in her yellow gown, and report states that she ranks as Newport’s second beauty of the summer. Men are “more_than plenty” atevery swell function in Newport. R Mrs. Vanderbilt’s favors were of the simplest, mere trifles of tinsel and ribbon and bells, flowers and gauze fans for the irls, and the following evening the co- tillon souvenirs given at the Mortimer Brooks’ were also simple, but rather pret- tier, consisting of silk flags and Directoire canes, with rhinestone tops, for the women, cigarette-cases and decorations of ribbons and flowers for the men. Fashion has uecreed that simple inex- pensive favors only are correct, and in- deed, since that much-talked-of cotillon was given years ago when diamond and jeweled favors were distributed to the value of $20,000, it has been considered bad form to make so vulgar a display of money, but in face of this many have been insisting that Mrs. Willie K. Vander- bilt’s were_extremely elegant and costly. However, I will tell you the facts of the case next week. Two pretty, although old, figures were introduced by Lispenard Stewart, who with Miss Vanderbilt led the Vanderbilt cotillon; they were the mask and screen figures, and at one time Mrs. Astor, the Misses Blight, Miss Hoffman, Miss Tailer and Miss Norton stood together behind a screen placed in the center of the room with the tips of their fingers stretching over to be seized by their would-be part- ners on the otber side. A pretty girl from Richmond, Va., Miss Irene Langhorne, is announced engaged to the well-known artist Charles Dana Gib- son. Last Monday evening I found the Bald- win brighter than it has been for some time, for the Four Hundred are at last re- turning from our numerous resorts, and as usual at the Baldwin society was well represented and several refreshingly pretty toilets were noticeable, those worn by the occupants of the boxes being in good faste. Black and white will be much seen this season and several waists of this combina- tion were worn. Quite the latest waists have the bodice of either white silk or satin and the sleeves of striped black ana white. 1 liked a waist of grass lawn. It was over green satin and the sleeves were of green and black. However, so greatly has grasscloth been worn, that it can scarcely continue to be fashionable. The scene of the “Masked Ball” is laid at Grasse, so the costumes were all de- lightfully Frenchy. Maude Adams in the first act wore a pinkish gown perforated, showing an odd greenish shade beneath! Her gray frock with the frilly mousseline de soie sleeves was pretty, but the gown I liked best was the one of grasscloth over rose-colored silk worn in the second act. Mme. Poulard was most appropriately gn;—bed, as her clothes had to be ‘remark- able.” Mme. Bergomat dressed her part admir- ably and Miss Barrymore made a danger- ously attractive maidservant in a charm- ingly becoming print gown of blue and white. At the Columbia Rose Coghlan as ‘A ‘Woman of No Importance” looked hand- somer than I have ever seen her, for the rich gown of black velvet, relieved with fine real lace, suited her admirably—far better than the gay gowns she has worn lately—and in the last act she is a distin- guished figure, all in black, just the neces- sary touch of white being given by a dainty linen collar at the neck and turned-over cuffs at the wrists. In the same play a good dinner-gown was worn by Margaret Craven. The ma- terial was a snowy-white creped silk fab- ric, the waist of which was adorned with gold sequins and a most artistic touch of 2 dull-rose velvet. It fitted to perfection and showed to great advantage an un- ususually pretty neck and shoulders. MARCELLA. ALl FOR MEN. An Eastern golf club this summer adopted a very cool and sensible costume. It was of brown Holland and consisted of two pieces, the blouse or semi-Norfolk jacket and the knickers. The material was inexpensive, but the Fifth-avenue tailors who built them charged $50 a suit. The best golf shoes are of a deep tan, with the soles projecting from under the toe. As private links have been made on almost every Eastern estate where such has been possible it” is safe to predict that the game will rapidly grow in favor on this coast, but I trust our men will never be as absurd as some New Yorkers I know, who constantly appear in golfing cos- tumes, although they never play and are thoroughly ignorant of the game. Mr. Rudyard Kipling has completed fine goif links on his newly purchased estate. The lawn tennis tournament just fin- ished at Newport was most interesting, there having been the largest number of entries ever known there, but at present yachts and yachting rival in interest all other topics of conversation. New York tailors have received large importations of black with colored figures for waistcoats, which the extremists are going to try and make the fashion. It is predicted that spots will be more generally worn this winter. The most tashionable shoesare no longer verydmnch pointed; they are rounded in- stead. Collars are to be high and almost straight, or slightly turned Gown. The one-stud shirt is the most correct at resent, but Americans cling to their old avorites with two and three buttons for evening and dress occasions. Bows for evening wear are increasing in size every season now, but the butterfly style is never seen exceg: in colored cot- ton ties, which have been rather popu- lar this summer. The Tuxedo coat is more of a favorite than ever with men for ordinary evening occasions. The long, narrow four-in-hand will again be the vogue this autumn. Herbert Gladstone is said to be one of the best-dressed men in London, so, in this respect, he does not in the least resemble his father, who really never felt quite him- self unless attired in a pairof y frayed- out trousers, while one shoestring fre- quently dangled behind him. Jauih Chamberlain has discarded his proverbial buttonhole orchids. In England the cutaway coat, a little shorter and more sparrowlike than for- merly, seems to be worn on all occasions; that is, until it is time to dress for dinner and the evening. The straight tall hat or the moderately belled Derby are correct. Diminutive golf clubs crossed, made of gold, with a tiny ball, which is always a jewel, make pretty s_c_flns. I am inclined to agree with Mr. Bradley that the bloomer girl’s costume is more modest than the creations worn when bath- ing by her critical sister. In this week’s copy of Vogue occurs a re- mark by ““Him,” which is so excellent that Iquotelit: “If I were humbly born and had aspirations, I should not despair. I should take a mental inventory, look over my disqualifications and study my bad points. Then I should eradicate “them gradually. I think that possibly in a little while, by care, I could make an excellent imitation. One must always remember this: that even if one 18 not well born, it is the mind which is the principal aid to re- finement. I have known some of the hum- blest people to be refined in sentiment, and consequently to reach a higher station with little trouble, and again, others so in- nately vulgar that it was impossible to do anything with them.” Everywhere men are evincing a growing disinclination to dance, and no wonder they do in this country, our leisure class being so small that society makes heavy de- mands on the young men who are making their way in the world, and after a day of activity they naturally dread an evening where such exertion must be made, so card and dinner parties will be given by wise hostesses during the coming season. Secretary Hoke Smith is described as being 6 foot 2 and is built accordingly, his shoulders being tremendous. He has a plump, clesn-sfiaven face beaminsi with good health and good nature, small deep- set blue eyes, high cheekbones and short wiry hair. In the “Masked Ball” this week Mr. Drew was, as usual, correctly and appro- priately attired. Some of our young men might profitably analyze the cut and style of his excellent lounge suits. C. C. PR OUR TABLES. This subject is one that shouid be of in- terest to every one keeping house, as many points are to be considered relative to it. First, let us chat about the tables such as are set for two only—a young couple just starting in life. To begin with, there is no economy in purchasing cheap damask. You shouid have six tablecloths at least for your table of the very best quality vou can afford, and as they are for a small table they will not be expensive if you purchase with judgment. Twodozen nap- ins will do, and of course your wife will hem her little stock of linen by hand, as machine work is far from appropriate, and 1f she is a clever needlewoman many will be the dainty centerpieces which she will embroider, and av present no designs are more fashionable than dainty wreaths of bachelor-buttons, mixed with wild grasses, although many prefer the ever popular fancy of having violets and their leaves stamped on their linen. All these ideas are matters of taste, but it is well to re- member that you want colors with which most flowers will harmonize—for instance, the bachelor-buttons will not o with many things. I must not forget the napkins. They are frequently beautified with hand- | some monograms, embroidered in linen thread in preference to anything else. Now about the glass. Even if ordinary glass has to be put up with do not com- plain, for by purchasing the absolutely plain glass, and always having it perfectly polished, it will not spoil the effectiveness of the whole, and, while speaking about polishing it properly, you will find after it has been dried that nothing will make it glitter as a_rub over with tissue-paper, which is far better than chamois skin for this purpose. Your cutlery may not be what you desire, and only platedware, perhaps, fills the silver basket. Still, if these articles are keptin good condition, you need not feel abashed ifa friend or two come upon you quite unexpectedly; for, what with spotless linen, sparkling glass and silver (or platedware) and cutlery which has received its proper amount of attention, what criticism have you to dread, even if only a little bowl of nasturtiums adorns the center of your board, for, having shown good sense about your glass, etc., you will be certain to have thin transiucent china even if it is quite plain, and if a wise young woman you will always, in case of an emergency, have a few potted and canned things quite ready to help out a simple meal. Now, I take it for granted that the wife should be the chief ornament—her hair can always be smooth, and probably a bniht bit of ribbon or a flower will be tucked among the coils, and her gown, as I have so frequently demonstrated, can be sweet and fresh looking, even if only cost- ing a few dollars. However, our women need little lecturing on this subject, as I do not believe carelessness in the respect of personal adornment is one of their fail- ings. Now, these are all small maiters which I have sl:Perficiullv mentioned, but if they were lived up to 1 believe happier homes would be the result; for a disor- derly table, poorly cooked and served food and a slovenly wife have made many a man take his first step in the wron, tion, for these things have more alitio men than is generally supposed. Now, do from the first let your husband bring home his iriends, even if 1t is inconvenient at times, for he is proud of you and of his home. Perhaps 1t 1s the first he has had for years, and you .should be bappy to re- celve his friends under all circumstances. The very most irritable of men will forget to be cross when thinking of a wee bit of a woman waiting for him, looking very im- portant, seated at such a table as I'have described; and pretty soon Mr, Husband will be seen returning with just a Landful of flowers for the little bowl that stands in the middle of that particular table, and no one can guy him out of carrying them home, either, for perhaps he can put one in her hair as well. But I must leave you until next week, my young friends. Hav- ing promised a few recipes, however, you may find them useful also. We have all of us eaten many sorts and kinds of rough and molded ices, but the sayory ice, whi¢h is undeniably excel- lent, is seldom made, and for teds, recep- tions and suppers it is exactly what 1s wanted. I will quote one of the best: MOUSSE DE_VOLAILLE GLACEE.— Mince one- halfpound of cold chicken, and pound it till smooth with two chicken' livers (previously sautes in butter seasoned and flavored with a little sherry), two good tablespoonfuls of rich veloute, and a uenonlugvol salt, white pepper and coralline pepper. When quite smooth add in half & pint of just liquid aspic, rub it all through a sieve, aiid mix it with half a pint of whgped cream, & good teaspoonful of sliced trufile and some pate de foie gras (or the latter may be pounded down with the chicken as you like); pack it into a mold, and place 1t in'the ice cave. Turnoutand scrve, garnished with watercress tossed in oil and vinegar, and angles of tomato aspic. 1f preferred, the ture can be trozen in a papered souffie case, and served sprinkled with coralline pepper, minced trufies and paraley. - Haze or any bindof game can also be served in this way; only when brown meat is used strong game Espagnole must be used instead of the veloute, an aspic should be made with game stock. Sandwiches are things that always in- terest us, and I find sandwiches made of very thin white bread spread with pate de foie gras and a layer of the thickest cream with a good deal of pepper are excellent, the cream bringing out a certain latent flavor of the foie gras. Some are fond of sweet sandwiches made of whipped cream, flavored with vanilla (the essence) and sweetened with pulver- ized sugar. The bread is first buttered and then the prepared cream spread over half of each slice, on the other is a thick layer of the best powdered chocolate. Then after the layers have been placed to- gether a chocolate icing is put over the whole. Those who have eaten these sand- wiches pronounce them delicious. MARCELLA. S ges & The Problem of Education. “The Problem of Education” is a very practical, hard, everyday atfgir to the vast direc- | majority of people. To those who sit in leathern chairs in comfortable libraries and write learned dissertations upon cko- logical subjects, who study the human mind and its attributes, the problem may present a scientific fascination that is alto- gether charming, but to the father and mother who are struggling to feed hungry little mouths, and who feei that their children must have those indefinite advantages which they somehow missed, to the boy and girl ‘“making their own ‘way,” even to the prosgerouu father with a daughter at a fashionable boarding-school, orason in a rapid set at acollege, the problem of education is practical enough, and there seems in it little room for fine spun theories and little time for experiments. Educa- tion, since the time of the fathers of the Republic and before, has been the darling theme of America. Her public schools have been the apple of her eye, and that daring person was denounced as a snob who spoke in slighting terms of either the country schools with its “three R’s” or the town high school with its smatter- ing of mathematics and little Latin. Countless thousands have risen up and called blessed these same schools, and every American is glad to acknowledge their important function in the formation of American character, and in directing :;tj‘edmmw of American life.—Woman- nd. e WOMEN. What the Great Writers of the World Have Said About the Fair Sex. A woman’s heart is just like a litho- grapher’s stone—what is once written upon it cannot be rubbed out.—Thackeray. The best part of woman’s love is wor- ship; but it is hard to her to be sent away with her precious spikenard re- jected, and her long tresses, too, that were iet fall ready to soothe the wearied feet.— George Eliot. There are female women and there are male women.—Charles Buxton. ‘What careth she for hearts when once possessed 7—Byron. Women are ever in extremes. They are either better or worse than men.— Bruyere. The pearl is the image of purity, but women is purer than the pearl.—Bourdon. To give pain is the tyranny, to make happy the true empire of beauty.—Steele. If thou marry beauty thou bindest thy- self all thy life for that which, perchance, will peither last nor please thee one year.— Raleigh. ‘Who is it can read a woman?—Shake- speare. - KELLY'S RELATIVES FIGHT A Battle Is Begun Over the Es- tate of James Kelly, Who Owned Mines. Collateral Heirs Charge That Sister Catherine Russell Influenced the Deceased. The collateral heirs of the late James Kelly, a miner who possessed a considera- ble estate, have begun a contest of his will and for legal grounds for the contest as- sert that Kelly was of unsound mind when he made the will, and also .that Sister Catherine Russell, sister superior at St. Mary’s Hospital, unduly influenced Kelly, as she is asserted to now control Mrs. Kelly, widow of the d eceased. Ina petition filed yesterday in the Pro- bate Court by Henley and Costello, attor- neys for the contestants, it is charged that on March 13, 1889, the said Catherine Rus- sell induced Kelly to convey to her prop- erty on Fourth street, valued at $35,000, and it is stated that in the will Bridget Kelly, his wife, was made sole legatee, ex- cept for certain small amounts bequeathed to the contestants. The petition alleges that for a long time Sister Catherine Rus- sell possessed complete ascendency over his impaired mind; that she induced him to ignore the claims of blood-relatives in his bounty, ‘“and that the said Bridget Kelly is now and has been for years com- pletely under the control and domination of the said Catherine Russell and subject to_her will; that said Catherine Russell induced the said James Kelly to make said Bridget Kelly his executrix of the said last will and testament without bonds, know- ing and believing that she, the said Cathe- rine Russell, would be able to control and direct the movements and actions of the said Bridget Kelly as the executrix of the said pretended last will and testament.” It is further charged that in June, 1893, Catherine Russell induced Kelly and his wife to convey to her property on Tenth street and on Bowie avenue in this City valued at $20,000, and that she further took possession of a large but unknown amount of Jxenonal property belonging to the deceased. It 1s also alleged that at the time of sign- ing said document said decedent was not of sound or disposing mind, *‘and that said document was not signed by said de- cedent nor by any person in his presence nor by his direction.” The contestants are Charles Kelly, brother of the deceased, whom the court is asked to make executor instead of the widow, Elizabeth R. Griffin, a sister, Mary and Margaret McBride, nieces, and James McBride, a nephew. The value of the estate bequeathed in the will is not stated. The gifts to Sister Catherine Russell are said to have been charitable ones, and not for her personal benefit. A Carpenter’s Fall. C.Schou, a carpenter living at 18 Elgin Park, while working on a new building at 155 Te- hama street yesterday morning, fell a distance of about twenty-six feet and sustained a frae. ture of the spine. He was taken to the Receiv- ing Hospital and later to the German Hospital. He will probably recover, but if so he wfil be crippled for life ‘Tasmania has 26,000 square miles, a little smaller than Maine. CLOSING OUT (LOARS AND U FRATINGER’S, 105 Kearny Street. most_certain end safe Pain Re: o ‘Water cures Summer Complaints, Diarrbea, Heart- burn, Sour Stomach, Flatulence, Collc, Nausea. B The "ONCE ASKED FOR AN OPINION, Gives a Graphic Description of His Ideal Woman. Mothers Please Note. [SPECIAL TO OUE LADY READERS.] In response to a question asked by a Iady, the great Napoleon replied, — “My ideal woman is notthebeautiful-featured society belle, whose phy- sician_tries in vain to keep her in repair, nor the fragile butterfly of fashion, who gilds the tortures of dis- ease with a forced smile. ¢ No! my ideal is a woman who has accepted her being as a sacred trust, and who obeys the laws of nature for the preservation, of her body and soul. “Do you know, my knee involunta- rilybends in homage when I meet the matron who reaches middle age in com~ plete preservation. ¢ That woman is rendered beautiful by perfect health, and the stalwart children by her side are her reward.. That's my ideal woman.” To grow to ideal womanhood the girl- hood should’be carefully guarded. Mothers owe a duty to their daughters that in too many cases is neglected. Nature has provided a time for purifi- cation; and if the channels are obstructed the entire system is poisoned, and mis- ery comes. ‘At a mothers’ meeting the wife of a noted New York divine said to her lis- teners: “ Watch carefully your daugh- ters’ physical development. “Mothers should see that Nature is assisted, if necessary, to performits office, and keep their daughters well informed as to matters concerning themselves.” Irregularities, from whatever cause, are sure indications of organic trouble. With irregularities come disturbance of the stomach and kidneys. Violent headaches often attack the victim; pains shoot every- where. Ex treme irrita- bility follows quickly, and then utter despondency overwhelms the already over- bur- dened life. Unless the obstruction is removed at once, your daughter’s whole future will be darkened. ,Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Com- und will accomplish the work speedily. t is the most effective remedy for irregu= e NAPOLEON,_ GULDE_NRUT - SPECIAL SALE —FOR— THREE DAYS ONLY! TEURSDAY! Shandon Bells | SALE PRICE Toilet Soap, 25¢ Regular Price, Per Box. 50c a Box Olive Green SALE PRICE Oc Castile Soap. This soap is 95¢c made from =1llo. Bar. pure olive oil, free from all SALE PRICE 25c alkali ; it soft= BACEL. ens the water by neutraliz- SALE PRICE 15¢ ing the alkali. EACEI. Pare Linen Handkerchiefs Fine embroid- ered edge, reg- ular price 50c Japanned Goal Hods, Regular price 25¢. 748 MATKETSt JUST SEE THE IMMENSE BARGAINS. GARMENTS MADE TO ORDER At Prices Never Before Offered on the Pacific Coast. This sale will continue for 30 di only for cash. ek JOE POHEIM THERE TAILOR, 201 and 203 Montgomery Street, 724 and 1110 and 1112 Market Street. COAL! COAL! Soutbie M98 ‘Ser Telephone—Black—35. ENICKERBOCKER COAL CO., 522 Howard Street, Near First. 15 (ir 300 pairs IRISH POINT CURTAINS, fn New and Handsome De- signs.. i Dept $6.00 & $7.60 Per Pair, $1.26 & $1.60 Per Pair. 500 pairs NOTTINGHAM “URTAINS, all New Patterns, at. 500 pairs NOTTINGHAM CURTAINS, Light Brussels effect, . o 3 .. Per Pair $2.76 Per Pair 16° ...Per Yard 125’Ipnirl FRINGED CHENILLE POR- TERES, Full Size, Handsome Dado and Fringe, in all the latest colorings, at.. . 40 pieces SASH NETTING, 30 in. wide, in New and Handsome Designs, a 50 pleces NEW FISH- NETS for Sash Cur- tains, 50 10 60 inches wide, in Ecru, Ivory and White, 88........ 45°,P50;§ 60° GREATEST BARGAIN EVER OFFERED. FINE GL“VES’ ALL STYLES, AT 600 PER PAIR, Worth $1.50 and $1.25. SE HABLA ESPANOL. G. VERDIER & CO., SE. Cor. Geary and Grant Ave. VILLE DE PARIS. BRANCH HOUSE, LOS ANGELES. WHALEBONE. PACIFIC STEAM WHALING COMPANY'S Genuine Shell Whalehone “Orea Brand.” Spectally Prepared and Selected for the DRESS G0ODS AND CORSET TRADE. All Sizes. Every Package Guaranteed. One trial will convince you of its merits and !nveflorltiovfl' all other brands in the market. LADIES See tuat sour dressmakers do not use inferior grades or substi- tutes. NONEEQUAL T0 OUR “ORCA BRARD.” Never breaks, most elastic, lasts longest, chéap~ est and best. For sale by all the leading dry-goods houses Office and Fgetory, 30 (alifornia Street, AN FRANCISCO. and [leal HIGHLAND SPRINGS, ON THE BORDER OF CLEAR LAKE, Isalxe County, Cal. 0 YOU ENJOY A SUPERB CLIMATE, dancing, lawn tennis, croquet, billiards? Do youlike find bathing, boating, hunting and fishing® you need recuperation and rest afforded by over thifty kinds of mineral springs? Shortest stags route into Lake County. All this and more can be had at Highland Springs. New hotel. Finest dining-room north of San Francisco. From San Francisco It costs only 8 for the round trip, and the hotel rates are 81 50 to $2 50 per day or gz]w 816 per week. Take the S. F, and N.P. Railway via Pleta, thence by a shorty httul ride. e — J. CRAIG, Manager. San Francisco office, 316 Montgomery st. DUNCAN'’S SPRINGS Hopland, Mendocino County. EW HOTEL AND COTTAGES, PICTUR- esquely situated in the mountains, 2 miles from Hopland; 1000 feet above sea level, and 250 feet above the valley; effervescent mineral baths, hot or cold; magnesia, seltzer, soda, iron, borax and sulphur springs; sure cure for kidney and liver troubles and Iiquor or morphine habit; piano, billiards, tennis, cm}net, baseball; free bus from Hopland 'Station, S. F. & N. P. R. B.; $10 to $12 per week: take 7:40 . M. train. All severe cases of sickness attended by the resi- dent: ician, Dr. J. Herbert Reeve. i 0. HOWELL, Proprietor. 'S114 03003y Board $8 to $10 Per Week. $8—ROUND TRIP TICKET—$8 AN})ERSON_SPRINGS. . ANDERSON, PROPRIETOR, Lake County. IVY LODGE, 117 Soquel Avenue, Santa Cruz, Cal., SBLECT PRIVATE BOARDING. Large grounds, fruits and flowers; central; first- class accommodations. LAUREL DELL HOTEL, OF LAUEEL DELL LAKE (FORMERLY Lower Blue Lake). A new hotel—the most artistic in the county. The rush is over. Rooms can now be had and you will be treated well. Boat- ing, bathing, fishing, etc., are among the many amusements. 88 t0'$12 per week. Address H. WAMBOLD, Beriha P. O., Lake County. REDUCED RATES, At Saratoga Springs, Lake County, Cal., ACHELOR P. 0.—FOR FALLAND WINTER. Large, airy, hard-finished rooms, en suite. Ac- commodations first-class. Hot mineral baths. ‘Write for particulars to J. CONNER. Proprietor. NEW WESTERN HOTEL. EARNY AND WASHINGTON STS.—RE- R acer Svery TI0t) e eates 1h eres Toom: elevator runs all night. 0ARD ON A RANCH 2000 FEET ELEVA- tion; 2ood board and accommodations: excel- lent hunting: terins moderate. Address Redwood Grove, Occidental, Sonoma County, Cal. -ROOM FURNISHED COTTAGES IN LOVELY locality; waterinside: free fruit and batl-house: Wwould uft tnvaiids: wister; price 38 to P15 Jaeel Fruit Rauch, Trenton, Sonoma County,