The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 25, 1895, Page 15

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, AUGUST 25, 1895 135 Society is well represented at Del Monte, | and all arrangements are under the suspices of the Pacific Coast Pony and Steeplechase Racing Association, so the band of fifty pieces gives concerts not only during the evening, but most of the after. noon as well, and the Japanese lanterns | and cordons of incandescent lights twinkle | among the trees, converting the beautiful ounds inte a veritable fairyland. How- € more attractive than e hing put together are the numerous lov women, exquisitely gowned, who learnedly discuss the relative merits of the polo teams, the ponies and all subjects appropriate to the oecasion. Lo The confections dearest to the feminine e seen at the grand ball which the festivities, so next week ve the descriptions of several 1 E ha good dresses recently worn at Monterey. all cellent dressmaker sent home a 0 an evening frock for & young | ho has put on second mourning. | e glace taffeta with line stripes | 1 printed figures. The skirt is erate length, and the corsage is cut nd is decollete and has a belt of a ribbon. Cut jet makes a | yoke and epaulettes. The tops | puffed elbow sleeves are shirred | rm to the outline of the shoulder. | Ity in the shape of ‘a stole embroid- | ed with jet completes the | An outing gown just from Paris is of | white flannel. The skirtis not as volumin- | ous as usual and it is finished with a dou- | ble set of white-silk stitching. ‘The jacket | is caught in at the back with a broad, | white, leather belt. The front falls loosely | and the band continues underneath and | 1 s over the chemisette with a gold, enzmeled buckle. Fichus are exceedingly popular and are seen in chiffon of every color, trimmed with frills and edged with lace, making pretty additions to any ordinary crepon or brigt gown. They look best when g gh the waistband to hang with loose ends, but some girls wear them crossed over the bust and tied at the back e others simply drape them | he shoulders and tie them in front, | em with numerous diamond | z women who are not slim are | ding fichus. and, speaking of t women, reminds me that Worth al- vs advised them to wear black hats, say- | beccming, and such is ase—why no one has ascertained. sto! w I have never heard of a bridal tea being ut they are swell functions, being snowy white, including nts offered; but, then, that managed. Creamed oysters, chicken salads, ices and cakes lent when so prepared, and green : permitted among the flowers are lettuce leaves for the salads. e od housekeeper or a chef tell you all the paru And hos of brides, one is to have a delight- satin lined with rose- heds a delicate glow the bodice of which is S like sequins ap- pligue A girdle orna- ed in a similar manner is most art- ic, the des eing ancient Egyptian; the sleeves have just a touch of it, and both < and sleeves are completed with most The skirt requires no de- ing absolutely plain and ex- vell hung. For receiving at etc., this same young woman will \ave a toilet of pink mousseline de soie, mounted on white satin, the skirt and yoke being of an open-work_design. Y. can imagine how charming is the effect. tea b 'i Some novelties in muslins are being | welcomed, They are pale blue, | nd covered with pink bouquets. as the lining called “Rustling is to be had in this City see it be- fore purchasing silk to line muslin or dresses, as it answers admirably to be had in white or cream for 20 | s per yard. Do rot grudge 50 cents for real French organdies. The gen- uine article is worth that amount, | for they wash and clean perfec One of our social leaders who dresses w' rich taste wears these exquisite fabrics over a foundation of white glace, and they are so made that many changes are made with the one lining. Such dresses are sweetly pretty for little card parties | a yard and informal dinners, especially if the | wearer is the fortunate possessor of some | ood lace, which gives a graceful finish to | the simplest gown. ‘ To give an idea of the inexpensiveness of such a frock, which can be worn a half | dozen times and then be washed, I will | give you the figures: | 12 yards at 50 cents............... $6 00 | Tafteta for 8 yards at 20 2 T 3 160 Walst lining, etc.... ... 1 Lace and insertion for waist 100 Fall of lace for foundation skiri. 110 Satin for bow on skirt, 2 yards at 4 80 To encircle wais: an in bow sam yards at 85 cents... £k 115 So for $1265 or say $13, you have all the material, which many a good dressmaker will be glad to make up during this dull season for $5, and i all cases I have quoted the prices of the best material; forinstance, the organdy I quote at 50 cents was 75 cents all the first part of the summer, now such fabrics are being closed out. You will fina them infinitely more satisfactory than cheap India silks, which bave to go to the cleaner’'s when soiled, and never laok quite the same afterward, the stiffness seemingly having deserted the linings, and unless they are sent back and made over by tke madame, can only be worn around the house, while, as a friend of mine re- marked, “Really, the organdies look prettier every time they come back from the laundry.” I am much enamored of a toilet made, as T have suggested, of white silk gauze with olack spots. Theskirt is full and un- trimmed; tne slightly bloused bodice is composed of strips of black velvet and ite lace, - The cibow sleeves are of the lic gauze, with two bows of the black ng among the fluffy masses. ! el cles the waist, end ng e | ’s cars bow in tbe back. k of velvet is_finished with two out- ps. My polden-haired beauty | ing when arrayed in this con- ch, being of silk mull, although made up at home by a capable woman, cost over $30, but it would have done credit | vle and finish to a modiste direct from At an exhibition of paintings recently at the Saion du Champ de Marsa few days ago Sarah Bernhardt attracted much at- tention when standing in iront of her latest portrait, just completed by Antonia della Gandars. She was arrayed mn a princess-gown of light green perforated c cloth over a slip of lettuce-green erty satin, and wore around her neck a igantic “fraise” of green silk muslin, and | 1er great picture hat was of dark green | at least, by most visitors to Paris. Madame | | heroines wear such chapeaux. | newest waists. and, indeed, for those who have discarded < > with rare lace, and a touch of that odd corsets or grown overstout, the princess | rare shade of greenish velvet, of which the style is gaining in fav full elbow sleeves were also com sed The wide collar of lace extended welf):ver At this same exhibition were “Gyp” and | the sleeves, and was adorned with four of Madame de Martel, so well known, by sight, | was, as is her custom, clad from head to | foot in spotless white, and in this case her skirt and bodice was of white serge and a | waterfall of white silk muslin, trimmed | with Valenciennes, draped the bust, quite | an unusual combination. Her hat was of Tuscan straw, a real “‘capeline” trimmed | with clusters of real white lilacs, tied with narrow ribbons of white moire. The witty authoress is especially fond of having her Women who always have a scrap of the bhandsomest rhinestone buttons I have seen for a long time. Indeed, Miss Barrymore is to be congratlated on the perfect taste exhibited in her costumes. “Gussie”” was effective in her light gown worn in the first act, and in the green silk one with its vest of white-watered silk. but Maud Adams quite won our hearts in her quiet little frocks. We all liked the simple brown crepon one—indeed all three were most appropriate and becoming. Of course we are curious to see more of the | pretty toilets which the actresses of this excellent company have doubtless brought dainty work lying near at hand, to pick up with them, and I understand we shall gaze while chatting, find real pleasure in sewing [ upon several if we have_the pleastre of narrow edging on ribbons. These must be | seeing *“That Imprudent Yourng Couple.” | sewn on both sides and when completed | At the Columbia, Rose Coghlan as Nance it makes a fashionable trimming for the | Oldfield was able to show us how well she A going-away dress of a bride which I| | understood dress, even for 1730. ) Her first gown of rich blue-green satin lined with a reddish pink, opening over a skirt of fawn- liked was of blue silk crepon made in the | colored brocaded silk, was most pictur- prevailing style, the waist being box-| esque, and she was very handsome as the pleated and was relieved by a deep round | Roman queen in her snowy white draper- yoke and epaulettes of guipure lace laid | jes and great mantle of crimson embroid- over a lighter shade of blue silk and edged | ered with gold. The jeweled girdle worn with an exquisite changeable galoon. | with it was rich. In London and Paris a move is being‘} Miss Winters looked very dainty in the made toward the substitution of the high | first act in a simple lace-trimmed muslin evening bodice, which can be worn at din- | over rose-pink, and as Miss Oldtfield in the ner; however, there is little probability | bluish-green figured overdress, with the |in England, although | pretty ones can b | | crepe de chine oz soft white silk; but let | | Turquoises are much used, but pearls, | than at present. | seline de soie, white and blue being com- i relieved with a touch of black. Her bon- i is talking about that such an innovation will be accepted | soft, colored skirt, she looked very well. the waists which | some advocate are wonderfully chic, chif- | One fact generally commented on was | the absence of all stiffening in the skirts, for‘| being the favorite fabric. One of white excepting around the bottom. How thank- chiffon, with braces of pale yellow lace cut | fully we say farewell to crinoline, horse- just a little low in the throat, with a very | hair and all their kin, for many were the small V of lace let in transparently, I greatly admire; and it can be worn with a skirt of any kind or color. Equally be evolved from white me warn you all the fancy waists, now | that we have our closets full of them, are | being frowned upon, and the prediction | has gone forth that fashion, most fickle of creatures, declares that whole dresses must | be worn if the wearer desires to be stylish. | Still I must describe just one more bodice, | hails from Paris direct. It is of pale pink silk crepe, with a fichu of the same over the shoulders, edged with a frill brought down into the waist to fall with | rounded ends on the hips, this fichu being | dragged up just a little to overhang, to- | gether with the bodice, a belt embroidered | in jet and gold. The sleeves reach only to | the elbow, and are trimmed with gradu- | ated frills. It is well to remark that noth- | | ing is so becoming to the arms as the frill, | which is long at the back and very short | at the front. Iam of course alluding to | the pretty, well-shaped arms, for those who | do not possess them should always let the | sleeve reach the wrist. A stylish young woman here is wearing | an afternoon frock which is very smart. The skirt is of cedar-colored crepon, very full, with which is worn a bodice of the new pink shade of silk veiled with black chiffon, accordion pleated, pouched at the | waist very slightly and strapped with jew- | eled passementerie, changing from pink to pale brown. The collar and waistband are | | of black satin; the sleeves are of the pink silk covered with the chiffon. | The thread-like gold chains are popular, | sometimes being studded with turquoises | or with colored enamel, a little gold heart | being worn to match this surrounded with | diamonds. The very long chains, especially those with pearls set at intervals, still adorn our belles, and are looped up with small diamond brooches. Bracelet: next in favor, and one style consists of two chains joined together with diamond | and firmness,.an rank | | head and back aches traceable to them. Hats and bonnets continue to be won- derful affairs, combining many colors and materials. Birds, bows and flowers are enormous. Pressed maidenhair is much used, and is so well prepared that it will last, with care, quite a time. - There is a new way of arranging wings at either side of sailor hats. They look as growing out of tufts of chiffon. Honeysuckle is now one of the favorite flowers, and quite a quantity of crinoline lace is used in black, spangled with jet. This winter much chenille will be used as a sort of embroidery, the long stitches laid side by side, so that they form a solid vel- vet-like surface. A Paris model bonnet, or, rather, foundation, shows a pointed coif, covered with a leaf pattern in two tones of shot chenille, with wired leaves at either side, like Mercury’s wings. In Paris the coiffure continues to be ar- | ranged so as to barmonize with the flaring skirts and large sleeves, and is brushed off the face a la pompadour and regularly waved. The wide effect behind the ears is obtained by wearing jeweled tortoise shell or amber combs which are five inches long and three and a half inches wide. They are curved to fit the head, and in placing them in the hair the teeth point towara the ear. While we are warned that distinct bod- ices are to be banished little jackets of vel- vet, silk or brocade will flourish for visit- ing gowns, and the latest news states that crepons are far from unfashionable, they having only begun their career, and the latest novelty will be used all winter. Itis only just finding its way into the great European wholesale houses, and I quote a description of it. “The surface is like cor- rugated iron, but it is solid as far as the indentations are concerned. The back of the material is plain. It gives richness it is not expensive, but letters, but this bracelet will never be | superior in its character to the thin fabric popular among our four hundred. An- other idea in better taste shows the chain again, every link being set with jewels. rubies, diamonds and emeralds, separately or together, find favor in our sight. Never have miniatures been in greater demand They are usually sur- rounded with diamonds, although pearls are used. Sarah Bernhardt is described as wearing baubles on a long thin gold chain. Among the curios are all sorts of quaint and beau- tiful charms, crucifixes, precious stones and brellocs, These she has picked up in the different European and American cities she has visited. Such a chain must be a real pleasure to possess, recalling as it could many happy eventful hours, and I read that one of the latest fads among New York’s fashionable women is to wear a number of gold ornaments attached to the long gold and jeweled watch chain, the watch being worn in the belt, the purse, smelling bottle, calendar, pencil, etc., hanging below. Last hi well-known society people were pres- ent. As a natural result it was a well- dressed audience. Such numbers of pretty | waists! There was the pretty fair-haired maiden in a waist of pale blue silk pow- dered with indistinct pink Dresden rose | buds, this waist being racefully draped with pink chiffon down the front. In front of this young belle was the dearest little brunette in a waist of creamy yellow silk, trimmed in quite tbe latest way with black chiffon, edgea with yellow Valenciennes lace; her tiny black chiffon bonnet had two Marechal Niel rosebuds at each side. The effect was excellent. New theater bennets are cqnspicuous by their absence, but one was remarked especially, and it was a beauty, but dreadfully trying for those seated back of the wearer, the large Joops of white Dresden ribbon quite | obscuring the stage. I rejoice in be- {ing able to announce that the latest | bulletins state that theater bonnets are to | be tiny affairs this winter. But to return to | my subject. I also noticed that pink is | much the rage, for there was the pinky pink waist, the salmon pink one, the rose pink bodice, the Dresden one, and a very stylish one in quite the new shade. Besides many of the white, black and blue waists were beautified with a collar and waist- band of this hue. An occupant of one of the boxes looked remarkably well in a fluffy gown of mous- bined with good effect. In the box above a handsome woman looked radiant in a gown of creamy white, net, with two outstanaing black wings, suited ner admirably. However, new or original conceptions Were not in evidence, making it evident to the most casual ob- server that we are passing through the transition period. But oh!the delightful gowns on the stage. Absolutely every one Lady Kate's blue_crepon own relieved with Lust the right touch of Eeliotrope and black velvet and a whole htof the most exquisite black butterflies, ‘e have all read how fashionable butter- flies are, how jeweled ones and those made of lace have figured in many a Paris gown, bat none of us have quite realized the de- lightfnl effect of having them embroiaered in black, on a pale blue skirt. And in the third act how eg(cellemli'. well did the evening toilet suit her ladyship. The i, W Monday evening an excellent | ouse greeted John Drew, and many | | lace. we have been wearing all the summer through. The stripes are often irregular, some wide and some narrow, while crimpe({ effects are introduced also with the stripes, | and some of the new crepons with satin stripings recall the Algerian stuffs which have found so much favor. Winter gowns made in these will be handsome.” Another new crepon, the Bamboo, has the design in color growing out, as it were, from the black foundation. It is a con- | one of the most interesting collections of | tinuous pattern, not floral, but rather representing the effect of patches of water spilt on a highly polished surface, having, in fact, no definite form. This is especin‘f— ly effective in green on black, in red on black and in white on black, for black and white will continue in favor, and this is largely due to the fact that the Empress of Austria having regained her health is largely influencing fashions, being one of the most tasteful women in Europe. A gown worn by her after a hunt a few weeks ago is thus described in Vogue: “It was a symphony in black and white. Tbe Empress has always doted on that articular combination. The skirt and odice were all in one piece, princessa fashion, and were of snowy silk grenadine brocaded with clusters of feathery pampas grass which somehow or other scemed raised from the material, as is the case with velvet damask. This long-trained slip was severely draped overa ‘transpar- ent’ of black satin, which shone through it very artistically, and was trimmed pro- fusely with ‘plisses’ of black Chantilly The elbow sleeves were very moder- | ate in sizeand shape, and the corsage was squarely opened at the neck, revealing the superb white throat gleaming with row upon row of priceless black pearls, while on the left shoulder was attached a small bouquet of white heather and Edelweiss.” The swellest yachting gowns are all of white with a dash of cream or ivory, and trirgminga of very deep coffee tints are used. Tailor gowns are no longer so severe as formerly, the fronts being of surah, usnally white at present, and this winter wiil be probably worn exquisite little vests of rich stuifs. A September bride here will have one in her trousseau. A young Austrian countess has invented a species of gaiters which are made of very pliable untanned leather and so cut that they are glipped on like buttonless gloves, having no fastenings of any descrintion save a tiny strap right at the top and a silver buckle. The result of this novel arrangement is that they fit wonderfully without any bulging folds or creases and have been received by all women who hunt with enthusiasm, in Europe, but of course very stout or very angular women should not wear them. Speaking of them reminds me that I have some news con- cerning the interesting topic of dresses for the bicycle, on which men are begi ning to smile approvingly since physi- cians have declared that corsets must and shall not be worn by women who intend to ride it; and strange to say, after all the exertions of preachers and phyeicians have proved of no avail in inducing women to discard this article of apparel, the wheel is triumphant ; for when the question arises, which will you bave, corsets or a_bicycle, the wheel is always chosen, and I only trust it ma; prove as beneficial as people imagine it will. But about the costumes under discus- sion. Many have arrived at the conclusion that the narrow skirts worn over knicker- bockers are the most desirable, these skirts being sometimes made with a loose apron ‘‘paillaisson.” Barah shows an enduring | fondness for princess and empire gowns, | absolutely plain bnt most beautifully hung skirt oll) pink satin went_ exquisitely with the bodice of white satin, trimmed front, which buttons qs either side, and can be left open when riding and buttoned when the wheeler cescends. Some of the new skirts are made in one, with knicker- bockers; these, however, appear to have but scant advantages. There is one point about the bicycling dress which must not be ignored. Itis essential to its success that it should be made by a good tailor. The ekirts are quite as difficult to cat as the riding-habit skirt, and the coats un- questionably require the master hand of a man in their pressing as well as in their shape. The woman who hesitates is lost to all sense of her sartorial duties. - Redfern has just made for an Eastern belle a good bicycling dress, with a Norfolk jacket and a large square collar and a moderate skirt. A more fanciful style of coat recenily seen was cut like a man’s coat, double- breasted, terminating at the waist in fror:t and having a full back made so as to cover tbe saddle. This is very smart when worn by a thin woman. Another qualification for a governess is that she must ride a wheel so as to chape- ron her charges. Of course grooms are now regularly seen in Eastern parks; indeed mociety now declines to move without its bicycles and bicycling is to be a_feature of all the country house parties this autumn. Black veils with white dots are rivals of the white ones with black dots with bi- cyclists. There is a whisper from Paris that passe- menterie and embroidery on cloth are to be seen on both bodice and skirt of our new costumes, which will give the death blow to the blouse, and for autumn we know that our bodices will be tight-fitting and of the same material as our skirts, but the blouse will continue to be worn at the the- ater 1n light silks, chiefly Louis XVI stripes, or in a lightweight velyet printed with a cashmere design, w bich is a novelty. ‘With the exception of a touch of color in our hats and bonnets there will be little color worn in the streets and black hats will be in demand. but a great change in shape is announced. Some authorities say hats and bonnets are to be of smaller dimensions and the hair is to be worn either pompadour or much curled. Furs made into capes, collarettes or boas are the craze at the fashionable French watering-places. They are not a necessity but are considered the height of elegance. Many of the skirts of our muslin and organdy gowns have to be beirilled, and very appropriately so, this season, but a stand will have to be made to prevent our winter gowns from being so disfigured, as the plain full skirt as we now haveitisa thing of beauty, but it will not be tampered with. Let me give a word of advice: Get what you absolutely need each season of the best material possible, and when made up wear your clothes well and at the proper time,” whether simple or elegant, if you would rank among fashionable women. Butter-color gloves have taken the place of the white, lavender and tan. Long gloves continue in great demand to wear with our elbow sleeves, which are on every dressy gown. Along with my Paris fashion notes comes the information that Madame Patti has made a great success in her theater of a pantomime opera by George Boyer. I im- agine Patti is going to sing once more in Paris at the Renaissance, and will verhaps appear in Boyer'snew work. MARCELLA. —— FOR MEN. Mr. Drew assuredly understands dress- ing correctly, and it is a treat to see him; but I take exception to evening or any trousers being disfigured with a silk braid on the side. The red tie worn by Drew in the first act is in excellent style, as is also the cut of his white waistcoat. In New York men will pay $15 and $20 for such a garment, and the result is worth the money. Here many are absolute botches. Speaking of ties, some English authori- ties predict the death of the wide-end club .tie. Bome of the best hosiers are showing ties with straight, square ends, narrow and in solid colors. Narrow four-in-hands in all colors are also worn. Englishmen still wear figured satins, which will be fashion- able this autumn. The very latest fashion notes from New York state that “ties are of dull silk, plain or with a small colored pattern of very dark red or deep lilac. The very small knot has given place to a broader and more loosely tied one, with a wide apron.” It is well to remember the remarks of a New York authority: “It is very bad form to allow a servant to wear jewelry, and I would not let a groom wear a tiepin, as I see some very rich but very vul gar people permit, in his white lawn scarf.’ For evening shirts pique is quite out of fashion, and we show no inclination to adopt the ruffle, which is in vogue in Paris. 1t is considered bad form to wear in our one-buttoned shirt a small diamond stud. At Newport, but never in England, straw hats are worn with frock or evening dress. The combination is abominable, I think, but a straw can always be worn witha Tuxedo coat. This summer the light brown linen or Holland waistcoat, with mother of pearl buttons, has been in great favor. Stout, elderly men should only wear the single- breasted ones; theyoung and slim can in- dulge in the double-breasted ones. White duck trousers have been much worn for yachting thus far this season and the vachting caps have a more decided peak than ever. In riding in the park it 1s better form to wear ordinary trousers strapped under the ordinary walking boot, black cutaway coat of vicuna and top hat and gloves. The regulation whipcord and corduroy rid- ing rig can be donned in the morning. Driving four-in-hand one is expected to wear afternoon dress, black frock coat, top hat, light trousers. A drivingcoat of gray with arge buttons and a top hat may be worn_instead. One very good gray coat of this description was remarked at our horse show. Bath robes for home use and the general neglige of the bedchamber are still being made of Turkish toweling and crash, the slippers matching more elaborate in silks and flannels can be had. Pinks, blues and ecru are preferred. The newest trousers are now made of a peculiar cloth, which must be hideous. Tt is thus described: ‘‘Seen inone light the material appeared to_be a plain gray with thin dark stripes on it; in abother it had a stripe about an inch wide of a shade slightly darker than the material itself.” The morning coat has become the fashion at all summer resorts, and no man’s out- fit is complete without a black jacket or a dark blue serge suit. Browns promise to be much seen this autumn, It 13 more economical in the end to pay $15 for a pair of trousers from a first-class tailor than to have two or three pairs at $6 or $8, as cheap trousers are more objec- tionable than any other article worn by men. C. C. The Inhabitants of Saumur. A magistrate of Saumur, deputed to ad- dress the King, began his speech in this manner: ‘‘Sire, the inhabitants of Saumur are so delyghmd to see your Majesty that—that—'" nd he stopped, unable to say more. “Yes, Sire,” said the Duke of Breze, “the inhabitants of Saumur are so delighted to ‘see your Majesty that they are unable to express their joy."’—] lelphia Record. ‘THE LABOR BUREAU SAFE. It Will Not Be Closed for the Want of Printed Matter. HELP IS PROMISED BY AIJ..I Several Merchants Stated That They Would Furnish Money If Necessary. Labor Commissioner E. L. Fitzgerald was in high glee yesterday, for from many sources he had received the assurance that the usefulness of the Bureau of Labor Sta- tistics and the" free-labor department at- tached shall not he hampered for the want of printed matter to carry on the good work. Several days ago he received a let- ter from State Printer Johnston of Sacra- mento, stating that the labor bureau had overdrawn the amount of printed matter apportioned to it, and the Labor Commis- sioner had a severe case of the bluesin consequence, for, as he said, without print- ed matter he would have to shut up shop. The annoyance was so great that the Labor Commissioner made known his troubles to the public through THE CALL. He said that he would appeal to the State Board of (ImY GRAND OPENING! Black Dress Goods FALL '05. - See Exhibit in Show Windows. SPECIAI.. Extraordinary Bargains in GIL. OV ES! At 80cC a Pair. SE EABL.A ESPANOIL. G. VERDIER & CO., S. E. Corner Geary St. and Grant Avenue. VILI.E DE PARIS, Branch House, Los Angeles. Examiners for relief. If they should not be able to see their way clear io pass a deficiency bill, there remained but one thing to do, so far as he could see, stop work at once. The publication of this state of affairs aroused the people in all directions, people who have heretofore shown no apparent interest 1n the work of the bureau. By 12 o’clock several prominent business men and members of .the Chamber of Commerce called upon Mr. Fitzgerald and | said that the work of the bureau must not be: stopped for a moment. Two of them them guaranteed to raise $1000 before night if the case wasso serious as to warrant such a movement. They were told that such a step would not be necessary until the State Board of Examiners had declined to do anything. Mr. Fitzgerald said: I have hopes now that the Board of Exam- incers will passa deficiency bill. I eaw the Attorney-General and he said he would do all in his power to help me, and he is a member of the board. The board cannot act in such a | matter unless all the members are present, so | we will have to wait until the Governor bas recovered his health. Iam more gratified to- | day with what this bureau has accomplished than ever before, because the people of all clusses in the counul as well as the City have told me that the work must go on and not stop for the want of printed matter. Iwish to cor- rect & wrong impression given by one of the apers thatstated we had “spent money too reely.” The bureau is being run more economically than ever before, {or we are running wiih $1200 & year less than our predecessors. We are even doing our own janitor work and the deputies are not paid as much as formerly. Small as our appropriation is we are keeping within the limit. As to the printed matter, we have not used much over $200 worth, which was about all that was necessary of recent years. However, the bureau will continue, and from the promises I have received from public and private sources we will be able to increase our sphere of usefulness. FREE AS AIR Dr. McKenzie’s Catarrh Cure Can be Had at Joy’s. The celebrated Catarrh Cure of Dr. McKenzie has made a name for itself in the remote places of the Globe. Hundreds of testimonials by rich and poor attest the | LARGE RANCH WELL RENTED. For Sale Cheap Notice is herehy given that in pursu- ance of an order of the Superior Court of the City and County of San Fran- cisco, the Executors of the last will of Jose Vicente de Laveaga,deceased,will sell at private sale, to the highest bid- der, for cash in gold coin, subject to confirmation by said court, on Monday, the 2d day of September, 1895, the Rancho Real de Los Aguilas, situated in the County of San Benito, State of California, containing 23,650 acres. This ranch has been for fifteen years | rented to one responsible firm, and is | now held under a lease for the unex- pired term of three years at $6675 per annum, payable quarterly in advance. Bids in writing may be delivered to the undersigned Executors personally at any time before making the sale. | Forfurther particulars and descrip- | tion of the land apply to DANIEL ROGERS, M. A.DELAVEAGA, THOMAS MAGEE, Executors of the Last Will | and Testament of Jose Vicente de La- | veaga, deceased, 604 Merchant st., San i Francisco. ‘NOTARY PUBLIC. | (VHARLES H. PHILLIPS, ATTORNEY-AT | U'law and” Notary Public, 633 Market st., oppo- site Palace Hotel, Residence 1620 Fellst. Tele Pphone 570. value of this Catarrh Cure. To prove its worth, The more chronic the case the better. Cor. Market and Powell Sts. In the midst of the great crisis of the | o that I have a positive zemedy for the and brought before his Majesty. manently cured. I shall be glad to send “‘Sire,” replied the deserter, “‘your affairs | sendme their expressand post officeaddress. “Very well, just remain till to-morrow,” together.” To prove its efficacy, To prove its merit. CALL for free sample or treatment. Seven Years' War a soldier of Frederick | 00ve named disease. By its timely use “Why did you leave me?”’ inquired | two bottles of myremedy free toany of your are going 80 badly that 1 considered it | A Slocum,M.C.,183 Pearl St., New York. said Frederick (it was the eve of battle), . TAKING CHANCES. To prove its relief, A BAMPLE will be given to you free. E. W. JOY, BALDWIN PHARMACY Frederick tho Great and the Deserter.| 10 THE Eprror—Please inform yourread- the Great’s army deserted. He was caught | thousands of hopeless cases have been per- Frederick. readers who have consumption if they will necessary to give them up.” “and if they do not improve let, us desert ¥ WOMEN ARE CARELESS. They Over-Estimate Their Physical Strength. Advice to Young Women. (SPECIAL 70 OUR LADY BEADEES.] Women are very apt to over-estimate their strength and overtax it. ‘When they are feel- ing particularly well, they sometimes take chances which in the long run cause them much pain and trou- ble. This is due largely to their not fully realizing how delicate their sen- sitive organism is. The girl who has Jjust become a wo- man can hardly be expected to act wisely, everything is so new, to her. She, however, should be HIGHLAND SPRINGS, ON THE BORDER OF CLEAR LAKE, Lalkxte County, Cal. Do YOU ENJOY A SUPERB CLIMATE, dancing, lawn tennis, croguet, billiards? Do Jgp ke finé bathing, boating, hunting and fishing? yon need recuperation and rest afforded by over thifty kinds of mineral springs? Shortest stage told; and every woman | ™3¢ ';’g&lm Qoumntyg c b R should realize that to | Springs. ey ‘N be well her “monthly | New hotel Fimest diningroum north of Sea periods” should be regular. Wet feet, or a cold from exposure, may suppress or render irregular and fearfully painful the men- ses, and perhaps sow the seed for future ill health, Lydia E. Pink- ham’s Vegetable Compound will ever be the unfailing remedy in such cases as well as all the peculiar ailments of women. Millions of women live to prove this. Mrs. M. L. Verrill tells plainly what it has done for her: — ] will write yon a few lines to tell you what my troubles were before taking Lyaia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Com- pound. It was the same old story,— my back and lower part of my abdomen and painful menstruation. Of course it was female weak- From San Francisco it costs wl{sge for the round trip, and the hotel rates are o $2 50 per day or 810to £16 per week. Take the S . and N. P. Rallway via Pieta, thence by & short, delightful stage ride. J. CRAIG, Manager. «_San Francisco office, 316 Montgomery st. FISHERMEN! 'HE HEADQUARTERS FOR ANGLERS AND their families is at the BOCA HOTEL, BOCA, CAL. The best part of the Truckee River close at hand. An excellent table and newly fitted rooms. A daily stage leaves the hotel for LAKE INDEPENDENCE, The queen of mountain lakes. Now is the time fly-fish this grand lake. Average catch, 2 trout per day. For information and rates address JAS. McDONALD, Boca, Cal. BALDWIN'S TALIAC HOUSE, T ness,,. ;Fha doctors LAKE TAXOH=. (Ihavetried five dif- HE SUMMER RESORT OF CALIFORNTA: ferent ones)called it 20 hours from San Francisco: more than 6000 chronic inflamma- feet above sea level; accommodations first class and attractions unsurpassed. L WRENCE & CO., Lessees and Managers, Tallac, Cal. MARK WEST SPRINGS, INEAR SANTA ROSA—THE MOST BEAUTL ful spot in Sonoma Sounty: fine fishing and hunting: round trip, 83 75; table first class. dress FRESE & JURGENSEN. HOWARD SPRINGS, LAKE COUNTY, CAL. OT AND COLD MINERAL SPRINGS OF great healing power. WIIl cure constipation, ald digestion and purify the blood. Terms $8 per week. Water doctor onthe premises. Write for circular and forther information. IVY LODGE, 17 S AR e Ot Large grounds, frulis and flowers; central; first- class accommodations. tion of the womb. “I had leucor- ¥ rheea for over eight 4 years, ulcers on the a5 neck of the womb, terrible headaches and backaches. Your medicine completely cured me.” — Mgs. M. L. VERRILL, 223 Newell Ave., Pawtucket, R.L - WHALEBONE. PACIFIC STEAM WHALING COMPANY'S Genuine Shell Whalebone “Orca Brand.” Specially Prepared and Selected for the DRESS G00DS AND CORSET TRADE All Sizes. Every Package Guaranteed. One trial will convince you of its merlts and lup'flm'lliov«r all other brands in the market. LAD ES 2:: that your dressmakers do use inferior grades or substi- tutes. NONEEQUAL TO OUR “ORCA BRAND.” Nav;rbb.!-slkl, most_ elastic, lasts longest, cheap- ‘est and t. For sale by, all the leading dry-goods houses Office and Faef flflllifmh Stroet, to SAN CISCO. Ad- LAUREL DELL HOTEL, N LAUREL DELL LAKE (FORMERLY Lower Blue Laze). A new hotel—the most artiatic in the county. The rush is over. Rooms can now be had and you will be treated well. Boat- {ng, bathing, flsbing, eic., afe Among the many amusements. Rates, $8 to 812 SR Address H. WAMBOLD, Bertha P. 0., Lake County. OARD ON A RANCH 2000 FEET ELEVA- tion; board and accommodations; excel- Jent hunting? terms moderate. A ss Redwood Grove, Occidental, Sonoma Co GILROY HOT SPRINGS A Place Where the Invalid Can Surely Re, in Health—Wh th urisi ‘finy Rogale Himsell :J;r:n " Magnificent and Picturésque Scenery, ‘Where the Summer Pilgrim May Fini Rest, Hefroshment and Helaralion A Meca for the Annual Secker After Repose and Recuperation. A Rural Retreat, Wh th Hills ure Clothed 1. Gagihe of Matchless Glory. ‘Where the Ogre Malaria Never Lifts Hig Ghastly Head and Where the Waters of Healing Pour Freely From Nature’s Own Fountain. T rowmsend. sirocin. artiving ot Bprines o5 nd stree n 6:30 P. M. Fare $7 15 for round trip. DstHigs; s 43 Stage connects with train from Third and ‘Townsend streets. ® ROOP & SON, Proprietors. Board $8 to $10 Per Week. $8—ROUND TRIP TICKET—$8 J. ANDERSON, PROPRIETOR, § Lake County. 9 DUNCAN'’S SPRINGS Hopland, Mendocino County. EW HOTEL AND COTTAGES, PICTUR- eguely situated in the monnu-tnnl 2 miles from Hopland; 1000 feet above sea level, and 250 | feet above the valley; effervescent mineral baths, | bot or cold; magnesia, seltzer, soda, iron, borax and sulphur springs; sure cure for kldne{ and liver troubles and liquor or morphine habit; thn. billiards, tenuis, cmuet, baseball; free bus rom Hopland 'Station, 8. . & N. P. R. R.; $10 to $12 week: take 7:40 A. M. train. All severe cases of sickness attended by the resi- dent physician, Dr. J. Herbert Reeve. 0. HOWELL, Proprietor. HOTEL DEL MAR. N THE SEASHORE, TWENTY MINUTES ride from Santa Cruz; climate perfect: tabls unexcelled; surf bathing, ‘sailing, rowing, fishing; | buses meet all trains: children, 8350 t0 $5 per week: adults, $9 per week: g:c 1 rates to socie- T I A i ,_Santa +» OF T00} h building, 8.'F. % 2 e REDUCED RATES, At Saratoga Springs, Lake County, Cal., ACHELOR P. 0.—FOR FALLAND WINTER. Large, airy, hard-finished rooms. en suite. Ac- commg lons first-class. Hot mineral hs. Write for particulars to J. CONNER, Proprietor. LAKESIDE HOUSE, LAKE TAHOE. B e T 5 3 an pleasant walks and drives. For l:r‘ml address E. B. SMITH, Bijou, Cal. (HEAPEST AND BEST IN AMERICA—THE WEEKLY CALL, sent to any_address in the Tntied Seates or one year for §1 60, poste