The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 7, 1895, Page 15

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JULY 7, 1895. 15 has seen a regular exodus, and the date young man is kept in a pleas- e state of excitement trying to decide her he loves Maud the best on her |, playing. tennis or golf, in her hting dress, or when she is ready for the hop, a dear, sweet mortal all in frills of rose chiffon, showing just enough of the prettiest shoulders in the world. The ung man may not have definite ideas t the new woman, but if Maud is one ves the entire ‘sisterhood with entire Really and truly, what is the rew woman, or rather I should say what t? How do you like this for a jon: One who has ceased to be a lady and not yet learned to be a gentle- man the average young man what is meant by the expression, for some will useit to describe the brightest and most charming of cur sex.and others again only when alluding to some most unwomanly action, so really I begin to dislike the expression and shall continue to do so until the new woman has been properly defined. ‘But to return to our s ect. You should have the lovely ting gowns worn on the th; they re more fetching than ever. Some of the girls were in white from head to foot—white sailor hats with-white bands, white duck dress with the dearest little rt waists of the softest lawn covered with tiny ruffles or insertions of Iace. Then the little shoes or ties of white can- vas. A large number had white parasols and all had white veils, which were re- markably becoming when bright eyes and rosy cheeks were combined. But the girlsin hite did not have itall their own way, for ne was prettier than the golden-haired whose eyesare notless blue than her had a great white collar. Another young was in white, »unt of attention, the men not being in east awed by the knowledge that she ted with the highest honors, for she as full of fun as though diplomas of very ' secondary consideration. The maidens wearing colored duck almost all had on russet shoes with stockings to I like the solid-colored figures, duck and the best, but some worn the other 1 with dots or stripes of color swell. et to mention & new completed for a not for, ime just who lives in Oakland. brown tweed, having & on and green through it. comes jt ankles, is mod- and under it are the knicker- he little coat is very short, and are strapped; and I must at is of the same material are of an excellent shade of tly described as swagger. t French modiste here is hard at 1 a costume of creamy white mull n lace and insertion for pretty matrons. The t has three rows of wide insertion, and ole gown is most beautifully made, als used demanding the all the work being on of some French 3 house, of needlework, hemstitching ame. If such models were imported and copied hun- enn our ves sht ma frequ ¢ home and yet earn something i find every moment profitably occu- for our wealthy cultivated women m cavil over afew extra dollars for work. An exquisite lavender lawn m this establishment will be seen at San c toilets are to be worn at the g which will take place about the of this month, when a Southern 1 wed a naval officer. The one I v like is of ‘a stylish shade of pon, through which run threaas The skirt is well hung, abso- plain and lined with silk; the waist med, having the blouse ut most successfully; the with strings of cut jet, hich appear agai epaulettes. T H 4 1 light taffetas are in y of styles prevail, but are just as long. nd bodices are Piques, batistes ue and simpli > dressmak bil; skirts remain pl most of them havinglace for trim- The balloon s es end at the where they are met by the long ,ves, which have pro e warmer r suminer wear than the regular sleeves. g Constantly we are hearing from Paris about the elegance of the costumes worn by a recent American br I allude to the young Comtesse de ellane (nee At the Grand Prix her dress was Her hat flowers, which are the rage ever; P nt, but I beg of you do not chase an entire gown of this shade, one such a gown is worn in San Francisco and it is sufficient for the entire City. What do you think of a dress of violet batiste worn over a slip of rose-colore: the waist trimmed with three horizo; rows of yellow lace narrowing at the waist? The under-waist shows plainly through the insertion and a charming if simple costume is completed with the aadition of a pale green s ‘Wear what you like, but mind who cuts and puts it together. Cheap dressmakers are the most expensive in the end, for while with even three or four appropriate gowns, from a first-class woman, we can hold our own among the best dressed here, we would look like guys at all times had we had three times the number from a person without any style or go to her, or irom one incapable of understanding our figures. A friend of mine, who will go everywhere this summer, packed up for every-day wear two sweetly pretty silk waists to wear 1 ber tailor skirt, in which she will have a thousand times more style than her i\m.— neighbor, who, 1n place of two jaunty itt waists, has two heavy over-orna- d gowns. Of course several shirt- companied the silk bodices, as well as a very swell leathern belt. One of the prettiest army girls at the Presidio made a wise choice early in the season when she selected a very fine black serge for her principal outing dress. She has been remarked as looking like a real Gib- son girl very frequently. ‘When I first heard that if we owned a blue crepon or serge skirt we must sew to the band an emerald-green satin waist- band I said it would be hideous, but just try it if you have not already, and you will understand why the combination is liked. The band must tw4n a smart little bow at the back, and be sure that the green you select is truly green, without any yellow tenes, and half of you will like the combi- nation. le I wonder if the long-shoulder seam will come into favor this fall. Let us hope not, =R confess the truth, I know no more | dress of China-blue duck, which | and attracted any | In| in the middle, and the gai- | The tout ensemble may | tly of young girls who desire to work | I repeat what I have said. | 7 W TOL -TE””WQM mind, does th(:] slim wo;naxl: waist and good figure look gshot)]fier effect, eclared to be the thinF. what a lovely time the dressmakers would have making new waists, as the present ones could not be remodeled. The rich red pink shade so fashionable continues to be used as crush collars to brighten up black and white toilets, and not infrequently it appears again at the waist as a sprightly bow. Sleeves of the new cut are causing comment, and I can only tell vou that the fullness appears to be caught up in the inside of the arm. The new sort of epaulettes are very pretty and original, as those I have just seen con- sisted of three loops of lace standing out straight in a line from the shoulder. Ecru lace is now the rage, but black will shortly be equally in demand. Brunerttes, rejoice! You are the style, the rage, and we must study to look as Eastern and luxurious and mysterious as possible, to be in the fashion, and you must have lots of hair; purchase it at once if it does not grow on your pretty heads; and why this decree of fashion? Some say it has come about because a faded blonde, or even a woman with chest- nut-colored hair, cannot appear to advan- tage i the new cornflower blues. the | purples, reds or greens now the accepted colors; so make the most of your hair, on which place a dream of a hat, all flowers, |lace and wines; then tie around your | pretty throats a great ruff of mousseline de sole, and be sure the tone of your gown ves to bring out the lovely tints in your kin and darkens your eyes, and then— | well, you should be simply irresistible, and if any of you see a piece of stuff of & | light cornflower blue shade, covered with | daisies, do not passit by, for with elbow sleeves of mousseline de soie one shade | lighter, you will have an ideal summer | gown, good enough for almost any occa- | sion, if made over silk. for only, to m{ with the smal well with such a slantin but if to-morrow it were Speaking of Gibsonian girls, the charity affair will doubtless be a success, for there are quite a sufficient number of our girls who can well pose as living pictures from Gibson's sketches. The fine games of tennis which have just been played in San Rafael will make more than one of us look for the racquets which the wheels have banished. 1 1 wonder if archery will become a fad; if | 80, you will hear more on this subject very shortly. | To conclude, it is no longer fashionable | to announce that you never breakfast be- fore 10 A. . Early hours are now the style, and as to the broad smile it isa thing | of the past, and the new smile must be | carefully studied before the looking-glass, | for, of course, with the dark beauty comes the slow, lancuid smile, which owes its | charm to the expression lurking in great lustrous Southern eyes. MARCELLA. | — LATEST STYLES FOR MEN. 8mall hats of red felt are being shown for outing and have proved great favorites for the country. Like the famous cigar- ette hat, worn years ago, they can be rolled up and put in a pocket, but what is the most fashionable style in straw hats is now the great question, and New York’s swellest hatter says that those with the narrow brim and high crown are the smartest. Rough and smooth straws are equally in demand. They have a band of plain black ribbon, only the younger men wear- ing colored hat bands. It does not occur to some men that a Prince Albert coat and brown shoes are not correct, but what would they say were a woman to wear brown shoes when attired in a calling costume, and yet both of these remarkable combinations are to be seen, aithough absolutely inexcusable, and the faultlessly attired California- street bank manager must fairly shudder when his glance falls on men sporting silk hats and light shoes. Neither is it proper to wear at summer-resorts white duck and patent-leather shoes. Duck trousers and russet or canvas shoes are worn together. Among the beaux in this City the son of the late distinguished naval officer would according to the latest and most fashion- able slang be “it,” for to say that a man or 1k. | woman is so “it” denotes the highest de- | velopment of the style, and at our horse | show he was_the most correctly attired man in the ring. On Alice street in Oakland the best " dressed men live in the cream-colored | colonial house. Indeed, I have seen no | better examples of style across the bay. | Why do many of our handsome judges | and bankers show’ such a total disregard T theirappearance? Some are remark- able only for fustiness, and not a few wear ready-made garments that even a scare- | crow would object to. Others evidently do not believe in having their clothes brushed | more than once a week. However, great men are allowed to be eccentric. The doctor with the Scotch name] who has a cottage at Burlingame usaally is Just so, and .ot a few of the medicos are careful about their appearance. - Now that a good percentage of us own wheels it is well to remember that aslender man looks best in light tweed knickers, while those of rotund proportions should :oe:cli. Sfi(r)t;toms- Of course the same holds our sweaters. wheeling shoes. o5 DO MO YISt I like the Jatest kid gloves. They are quite a new shade—more a lait an cafe in- stead of cafe au lait,and have a single silver-colored button. The ki are marked §2 25, © Kind 9 ien With the pretty outing shirts the four- in-hand tie is seldom seen, those of figured madras being in demand, and they are tied either as a bow or a loose sailor knot. Those of you who have proper patriotic sentiments should be glad to hear that most of your silk ties are made from silks made and designed in this country, And while speaking of silks, I believe we will in the near future see more silk waistcoats and really they would net be half bad if ir, subdued, solid colors, for I abominate dotty, spotty effects. A New York man has just written an article which is 80 zood that I mean to quote a few lines. Hesays: “The clothes of a Western man lack repose, as arnle. I do not mean that they are patterned after the cowboy order—such a thing is absurd. They bave good tailors, and their figures | are far better than those of the New York men. The-Western man of fashion is tall, erect generally, and has not_ that_absurd stoop which many of our New Yorkers affest. His }oimu are larger, and he has quite an athletic appearance. But he will indulge in just a few outreisms, such as collars which are a trifie exaggerated, russet shoes which are of a very aggres- sive yellow. and top hats which are too much belled.” After reading many of the absurd remarks directed against Western styles it is refreshing to read so amiable a criticisme C.C, e, WHEN NOT IN VIEW, Soiled fineryis far worse than none. Unless a woman has time or a maid to m- sure the proper care of laces and jewels, she must not attempt to wear them. Real lace must never be sewed in place perma- nently. Letitbe so attached thatitcan be removed when the garment is taken off. If the lace has been ruffled, it should be gathered on a draw cord that can be loosened to allow the ruffle to spread flat. Don’t fold lace; cover it flat with tissue paper, ana roil paper and lace together, avoiding all flat creases. Lace that 1s soiled may be laid on a paper heavily sgrmkledvvnth flour, a layer of flour to be then sprinkled on the lace and another paper put over it. After a few days shake the lace free from the flour, and the result, except in case of stain, is usuaily satisfac- tory. There are many directions for wash- ing lace, but better than all of them is to keep it clean so that it will not need wash- ing. Don’t bave' it ‘cleansed,” for the cleanser is yet to' be found who doesn’t re- turn lace chalk-white and stiff. Only the idle bands should wear jewels, and rings should be removed when the hands are washed. The best place for fine stones when not in use is deep down in jewelers’ sawdust, but they will do very well shut up in a box, secured against be- ing rattled about. Diamonds and all hard stones may be dipped in warm soapsuds and even rubbed with a very soft brush, but the best rinsing is accomplished by holding the stone under a strong flow of hot water. While still wet and hot pour a few drops of alcohol over the stone and no rubbing to dryitis necessary. Never poke sticks and bits of cloth under the seaing of stones or use a tough brush, for such treatment imperils the setting. Once a year stones that are constantly worn !{m“ld be inspected and cleaned by a jew- eler. Veils are a serious item of expense in modern woman’s dressing. Have a change of them, and after each wear flatten the veil out. lav it on tissue paper and roll veil and paper together. A veil is thus kept crisp and smooth and with great care will | last almost as long as the hat. The toes of | fine shoes and slippers should be stuffed | out with paper, each shoe folded in cloth. | Never poke fine shoes into a shoebag, to rest with all their weight on the toes. Smooth out the wrinkles from gloves after wearing, dust them off with a cotton cloth or tissue paper, blow into them and lay | them closely in a box. Gloves should never be jammed together flat. e e TO0 MAKE A MAN TALK Don’t fire a lot of small talk at a shy or silent man, and don’t pronounce him stupid if ke fails to return corresponding inanities. Ordinarily when a man is silent it is because you have not put him to talk- ing about the right thing; and if he seems stupid, it is because you have not inter- ested him. Girls make the mistake of thinking the essential thing is that they themselves should seem to be “having an elegant time,” and_that is why they main- tain an unceasing flow of chatter. Butthe real credit comes in making the escort have a good time. The girl who can sit absolutely quiet and keein man talking is the clever girl, and if the man is stupid she is doubly clever. 1t is well to have a little coaching from the hostess as to the business or tastes of the man presented, and then as soon as may be lead around to subjects kindred to his interests. It is dreadfully rude to talk your own shop, but it is social astuteness to inake the man with you talk about his shop. You need not know anything at all about his business, but if you appear in- terested and desirous of information the man will talk like one inspired. Often a little preliminary silence will put a shy man at his ease. He realizes that heis not expected to piunge into a conversa- tion, and presently begins of his own ac- cord. Or give him some small commission —let him fetch you an ice or go for your shawl—or ask him about the man you last saw him with. If you are clever at guess- ing a man’s mood you may perhaps ven- ture with one who is bored beyond meas- ure to say, “I know you think I am going to make you talk, but I am not; I am go- ing to sit quite still, for I have exhausted all my small talk,” and, behold! likely he will be at once launched, so delighted will he“Ee to believe that he is relieved of small talk. ‘When he is started lead him on with sympathetic questions; help him to say clever things; let him see he impressesand interests you; give him rein and take your ease. The man will go home and vote you the one interesting girl of the evening, and that istheimportantaccomplishment. GUIDES IN CHOOSING MEAT. Beef when young has a fine open grain and a good red color, and the fat should be white, for when more of less yellow the meat is seldom of the best. Beef of which the fatis hard and skinny and the lean meat a deep red with coarse fibers is of an inferior quality, and when the meat'is old it can be told by a line of horny texture running through the meat of the ribs. Mutton must be chosen by the firmness and fineness of the grain, its color, and the firm white fat. Lamb that has been killed too long can be discovered by examination of the veins in the neck. These are bluish when the meat is fresh, but green when it is stale. In the hind quarter the point to examine is the knuckle, which is not firm when the meat is not perfectly fresh. Venison when young will have clear and bright fat which should be of considerable thickness. Partridges have yellow legs and dark-colored bills when young. Quail are greatly improved by wrapping them in very fat larding bacon before cooking. NOVELTIES FOR ENTERTAINERS. The hostess who is 8 member of some literary society or writing group can ar- range a novel luncheon for her co-workers by the following simple method: Let the places at the table be designated by minia- ture books, resembling in appearance, if ossible, those of classics from various languages. On each tiny volume put the name of a guest. When she opens her book it will be found stored with bon- bons. A folded page should also be in- closed on which 1s a brief account of the author whose name appears on the back of the mock volume. This suggestion can be modified in a great many ways, so that there is plenty of chance for the hostess to express her own individuality in carrying out the idea. It is easy for the young woman who in- vites her companions of the tennis court 10 a tennis lunch to astonish her guests by unique decorations. These can be made to seem quite elaborate without necessitat- ing any great outlay. Forinstance, let the ta%le represent a tennis court, the lines in- dicated by ribbons pinned on the cloth, while across the center a white silk net can be stretched, supported by polished wooden poles. If the hostess has a knack at ornamental painting, she can decorate her menu cards with tennis designs and appropriate descriptions. ‘“Love all” will serve for the champion’s card and “Wrong court” will be appropriate for the young man whose tennis achievements are not as remarkable as those of hisdaily occupation. A “poverty supper” is a daring thing for a newly married couple to attempt, but with their intimate friends it is entirely safe, and it will be productive of much amusement, since the gnests will expect to find all fittings and furnishings spick and span new. As the honeymooners’ outfit is usually in just the condition, it is often difficult for them to obtain the proper out- fit for the poverty supper, but some old dishes and silver can be borrowed and the new outfit of kitchen wares will serve. The effect on guests who expect to find the tables set with glittering cut-glass, new china and bright silver (among which, perhaps, they will look for the wedding gifts which the{ themselves gave), but who see an array of broken dishes, tin and iron pans and ‘“‘cooking’” knives and spoons, can be easily imagined. To be consistent the first course should be on the table and consist of the most meager fare—crackers and water, stale bread and scant supply of butter or something of thatsort. Fortem- porary decoration of the dining-room use cheap li(hogrs]ghs and pictures cut from newspapers. Do not light the gas, but for the first few minutes content yourself with adim lamp of small size, or, better yet, candles stuck in bottles. Give the guests time to take in the details of the poverty show in the dim light, then turn on the lights, bring on the pretty things and serve the daintiest supper you can con- trive. AIDS TO THE BED-RIDDEN. A stock of old nightclothes for sickness in hot weather is of inestimable value. Sew the fronts and rip open the backs from hem to collar. A very sick patient should be disturbed as little as possible; even the gentle rolling and turning in bed that accompanies a fever sickness that is free from delirium should be made infre- quent, and when a change of clothingis made it is not permitted the patient to sit up. With these cool, open-backed gowns first one arm may be uncovered and slipped into the corresponding sleeve, then the other. After tucking the sides of the ggwn well under the back the edges may pinned with small safety-pins. The gown may be pulled smooth from each side down- ward with slight and gentle force after the patient is on her back.. With the usual gown two rolls of the patient are neces- sary—the first one toward the nurse, allow- ing the arm which lies uppermost to be tafen out of the nightdress and the corre- ?ondmg sleeves of the fresh gown put on. oth gowns must now be rolled and folded after the new one has been pushed quite as far as it will go across the back, the one re- treating into a roll before it (supposing the gown to be slit for comfort and not having to be bunched and put overthe headI; now gently roll the patient over so she lies on the clean sleeve and the old gown can be easily pulled off and the new one puton the other arm. 1f the nightdress is the usual one worn in health after the sleeve of the new gown is pulled on the old must be gathered upin the hand so that all the goods are held in the hand between the collar and the hem, and forming a loop. A not very sick patient can be gently lifted, with the hand under the heag and shoulder, so the loop can be slipped over the head, and while resting on the nurse’s arm the new night- gown, gathered in the same way, may be ulippedg over the head. Now the body must be gently rolled upon the side which has the clean gown and the remaining arm and shoulder made free of the old gown and incased in therest of the new. But for solid comfort try theold gowns fastened in the back, and avoid the necessity of turning and twisting. ETIQUETTE MUSTS AND MUSTN'TS Prodigious as are the manuals of eti- quette issued in these days, nobody with a kind heart, a desire to please and the merest rudiments of knowledge of the simpler social responsibilities need worry about their *“‘manners.” The self-respect that & good conscience and self-reliance give will keep you from pushing and in- truding. As for “rules of conduct,” pooh! You need hardly bother about any that your own sense does not suggest. Arbi- trary rules of etiqueste, such asconcern the proper way to shake hands, the num- ber of cards to be left at a reception, the ‘way to turn out your toes and the special greeting that is the current fad, all these rules are liable to change from season to season, vary in different localities and mean very little anyhew. A handshake that is the result of cordial intent can never be rude nor ill done. Bad temper is always ill-bred. Conduct of any kind that puts others to distress is always *‘bad manners,”’ disrespect to age or to the dig- nity that office or high achievement con- fers is always hopeless rudeness, and your own good heart will tell you that. The young girl just out of school is overwhelmed with mustn’ts and musts, but most ol them are nonsense. If she is modest and self-respecting she will know that the inevitable “young man” must be treated with some reserve. But she need not be afraid to take his arm if she needs his_assistance, nor has she committed a social crime if she doesn’t take it, so long as neither course is foliowed to her own distress, or to his unnecessary embarrass- ment. She will know that this same young fellow should include her mother or guardian in social plans, at least till such time as the mother or guardian have judged him to be trusted with the escort of the girl alone. Her own instinct will tell her that she should not receive rich presents from a man unless she is en- gaged to him, because it is never comfort- able to be under obligations to any one, whether a “‘young man” or not, that she is not in a position torepay. All theother mustn’ts easily range themselves under some equally simple and reasonable rules. Many of the remaining causes of anxiety to the neophyte come under the head of prompt and exact replies to zocial notes in- volving the making of social engagements, of equally careful keeping of social engage- ments, big and little, of friendly thought- fulness of the one who is ill, or who is hav- ing an anniversary of some kind that de- mands a call, or a line of remembrance or greeting. Then there are “table manners,” and they are made such a bugbear that the example for every one. Don’t befright- ened, and don’t do anything in a hurry. Indeed, those two suggestions will brin, you through almost any formal occasion you will keepga sharp lookout and remem- ber that good temper and a modest_desire to please will make up for mere awkward- ness and make up handsomely. [Copyright 1895 by C. 0. Burton.] SOME NEEDLEWORK NOVELTIES. Faney Work With Which Industrious ‘Women Will Amuse Themselves. The one great feature of all needlework designs for the season is gold. It may be applied in the farm of spangles, it may be bullion couched on, or used in fine thread, says Clare Bunce in the Louisville Courier- Journal, but whatever the form, the fact remains that some gold there must be. So much I learned, and learned positively, from the Society pf Decorative Art, than which we have no higher authority or more fully to be depended upon. Absolutely new things are so few as to almost cease to exist. The best that the embroiderer can hope for is a fresh design or a new application of a familiar 1dea. This season gold is predominant, and as a result much brilliant work will be seen. The favorite designs are all either empire or rococo. These two seem to divide the honors, and to have no place for any third. In everything their influence is apparent. From the simplest linen doyly to the most costly satin pillow every object shows the effect of one or the other, so that while it is true that other designs exist, these two have the honor to rank first. One of the handsomest pieces that I saw is a cushion of heavy cream white satin. On it is a rich design in rococo largely car- ried out in gold thread, and with bits of the heavier bullion. It is really gorgeous. No written word fully describes the effect, and it can be taken as a fair example of what fine work aims to be. By its side was a simple linen tray cloth. On it is the empire wreath worked in vary- ing shades of olive and green silks. It is finished with an inch a half fringe of the linen, and the edge is couched with white cord. Nothing simpler could be devised, vet, in spite of its close proximity to splen- dor, it held its own place and seemed beau- tiful in its daintiness. g5l The wreath is the essential characteristic which makes it and others similar to it new. The linen and embroidery are old friends, but this empire design is fresh. Iam told it is a great favorite, and will surely last the season through. Certainly it is in keeping with much of the furnish- ing of the day, at the same time that it is charming in itself. The rococo patterns lend themselves pe- culiarly to the mania for gold, and many of them are truly superb. These show the brilliant spangles set in to make a superb effect. Large pieces of this work are most exacting, and not often undertaken, so that one sees hosts of lovely little things rather than any one or two big pieces. Among these some charming card cases and cases for scissors. and needles stand out conspicuonsly and suggest all sorts of possibilities for little inexpensive gifts to friends to travel. They are in book form, about as big as a generous case of leather, and show satin exquisitely worked in rococo designs in the inside, with trim- miugs of cream white moire. The card cases have pockets within the covers, but the needleworks show an assortment of needles in small pockets on one cover and handsomely carved small scissors attached to the other. Both are wonderfully attrac- tive and so truly elegant they at once sug- gest themselves as appropriate gifts to be offered at the shrine of some dainty woman friend. One real novelty, which after all is a variation of the rococo idea, is a form of applied work and consists of flowers cut from heavy brocade and arranged upon a foundation of silk. Touches of gold are seen, and altogether the effect is immense. Seen in its completed state it looks most difficult, but after all any woman who is neatand deft and who has a correct eye for color can do it with success, at least it is worth the trial, for it makes a superb cushion or scarf, and has the real merit of being the “very latest net.”” Heavy silk lace and gold net are com- bined to make a fascinating whole. A small stand cover that 1 was shown bore the mark of some fabulous price, but, while the materials are all expensive, it might be done with comparatively little cost. The foundation is silk, in thisin- stance deep, rich red. Over it is plain gold net, and upon the net again is applied heavy ecru silk lace, the pattern of which is outlined with gold spangles. The finish round the edge is gold lace. Altogether the cover is splendid, and if the gold is all of the oriental sort it will not tarnish under any ordinary usage. Scrim is having a revival. The perfectly plain sort is being made into charming scarfs and table-covers. Housekeepers who valne wearing quality will undoubt- edly be glad of this fact; but, as the new scrim must show its bit of gold, care must be taken, or the cover will lose its reputa- tion for wear. A finished model shown me is elaborately worked with a conventional border of white silk. Here and there solid squares of gold are introduced, and the brilliant thread adds its richness to all the design. The finish is linen lace, elabor- ately sgnngled, and the whole effect is far more brilliant than one would suppose scrim could be made to be. Judging from the care exercised in other things, it is safe to assert that all this gold is of the best sort, and that it can so be cleaned without harm. Real Turkish gold, it is claimed, will stand laundering, and the fine imported doylies go to prove the fact. But it is extremely difficult to ob- tain, and unless itcan be verified beyond a doubt, it is wiser to pay the price for clean- ing than to risk spoiling a handsome piece of work. WOSUMNER HISHONS The Newest Gowns From Paris Are Beautiful and Ser- viceable. A Swell Street Costume of Mohalr in a Very Pretty Huckle- berry Blue. NEW YORK, N. Y., July 7.—A plain skirt and what is known as a ‘‘dinner coat’’ is the model of a black silk gown late from Paris. The quality of silk is peau de soie, whose satiny surface and soft pliable texture seem to combine the splendors of satin with the virtues of silk, and theskirt hasthe spread- ing umbrella look of all French skirts now- adays. The cut of the coat borders Strongly on the Louis XIV order, being smartly flared in the tail and opening over a vest, as was the fashion of that period. Immense jet buttons picked out with gilt ornament the fronts, which hung slightly loose at the waist from the under arm seams; the back fits snugly into the figure, and under the small revers of the coat but- tons are sewed, to which ornamental re- vers of satin in some gay color may be at- tached for festive occasions. The dinner coat illustrated shows these revers at- tached. They are in a deep butter yellow, the bag vest being of crepe in the same shade and made exceedingly becoming at the bust line by a yellow ribbon drawn across and knotted at the left. A clever woman who has just returned from French shores has a costume made in this way, which she declares is the most useful and economical model ever known for modest folk. Through a chax-nse of vests and revers alone it can be made to fit alntost any oc- casion and look equally suitable on all. Besides two low cut evening vests, with accompanying revers and ornamental cuff pieces, a smart one of mauve pique turned the fine dinner coat into a dressy morning one’s appetite is all lost. But even at the s affair. One of spangled batiste with a most formal dinner you need not be afraid. ‘Watch the hostess. “She is supposed to set reat spreading collar of the same makes ft pou&l‘ for :ither afternoon or e while a low double-breasted one of black satin, with a high upper portion of black mousseline de soie in crossed bertha folds, gvn it that elegantly simple air that seems suit all moments. Another useful rig of many possibilities, brought over from Paris, is a street costume of mohair in a beautiful huckleberry blue. Mohair isin Paris the texture at’ present most seen in Plain street gowns, and the favorite model is a plain skirt and a box coat with a back in one piece. Sometimes this will hang plain from a ointed yoke, but in almost every case two ittle openings are left at the bottom of the under-arm seams, making the slits seen in masculine blouse or shirt bosoms. Close stitching gives all edges a neat tailor finish, and where the seams of some of the skirts will be left plain others will be strapped over with narrow bands of the same ma- terial. The model of the skirt is a godeted back and a front cut of the width of the material, which runs two bias seams into the back, and produces at the sides that outward flirt so becoming and easy to the feet. The buttons used will be great things as big as butter plates, of smoked pearl, horn, or fancy metal, and even those of Dresden china, gayly flowered, are said to be in good taste. Again a mohair gown will show no but- tons at all, the fronts of the single-breasted jacket fastening neatly under a stitched IK, such as finishes a man’s box coat. s for the French mohairs themselves they are most beautiful. The handsomest Fattems are enormously wide and in a loose sort of bunting weave, and not even in black do they suggest the shiny funereal things one is accustomed to associate with the name. In color the huckleberry-blue is perhaps the latest tint, but a more gra- cious and becoming one is a soft wavy brown that seems especially effective when worn with a blouse in any of the gentle greens now fashionable. One brown mohair gown, that has just made its debut in New York, has a bodice in crinkled silk, patterned gorgeously and confusedly with palm leaves in many colors. It was simply gatherea at the neck and waist into a belt and stock of black satin ribbon, and the sleeves, which were entirely without stiffening, fell in a great loose puff three-quarter length. This palm leaf silk, together with gauze })attemed in the same way, is the very latest French fad for waists. In some of the gauzes the tones.are wonderful, great splotches of flame shading into emerald green, and again melting into effects that are almost brown. No trimmings are used with them, the many colorings of the texture being the point intended for notice. There is always a plain ribbon stock and belt, however, and sometimes these will reproduce adpredominating tint in the gauze, emerald green, a flame red, or else an orange hue that is positively startling. Indeed if one is to judge from the bodies, and some of the flower-decked hats that come over to us from Paris, color is to be more and more the thing as the season ad- vances. Hats, big and little, are simply laden down with gay posies. In some cases, with the exception of a narrow fold of velvet that faces the under brim, there is not a ray of other trimming, and the blossoms will be massed irrespective of tint or degree. Modest daisies, for instance, will hobnob with gorgeous flags, and haughty orchids rub elbows with field violets. Again, on a single low crowned sailor bat there will be ivy leaves with the violets, and besides, a wreath of roses with loose trembling petals, that shade all the way from palest pink to red so deep that it is almost like the back of the famous Ger- man tulip. Sometimes, indeed, there will be a black rose under a brim, and with much color above this never fails to be effective. Dark women, the pale, romantic sort, are wearing hats with white flowers, white silk roses and gardenias with thick waxy green leaves. These last are especially be- coming to brunettes, and it is remarked that they combine wel with sunburnt straw and black ostrich feathers; though no more than three gardenias seem to be used at one time, two on the outside of the hat and one under the brim, which, if waved, may hold the blossom straight in front, or else loosely at the side back as if it were thrust in the brim. With blue- black locks they are very fetching. And since the Duchess of Marlborough has al- ready made them fashionable in England it doubtless won’t be long before they are the rage in New York. At present they are rare, and correspond- ingly precious and desirable. 5ther points on dress, gathered en pas- sant, are that sporty girls are given to cot- ton shirt waists, with white pique collars and cuffs, and that many fair cyclists who wish to be cool are having blouses made of ecru pongee. A whim for bicycle skirts is to have the skirt button up one side of the front, which enables the rider, when on a lonely road, to whip off her petticoat with- out lifting it over her head—which, it seems, is very naughty—and so go along unhampered in her little knickers. Summer underwear and negligees grow more lovely day by day, and the dainty figured batistes and dimities keep the lead with materials. The dressing sacque shown is ane of the newest and most becoming models for this garment, and is of yellow batiste embroid- ered with red spots, and red finishing the scalloped edge. A NEW SKIRT TRICK. A word more about the skirts of the mohair street suits. They are made u entirely without lining. A bias facing half a yard deepand an interlining of bias grass- cloth the same width finishes the bottom alone, and a trick of French dressmakers is to stretch both dress and facing in put- ting them together. This makes the flare at the bottom even more marked and gives the skirt a delightfully easy ‘“‘set.” Atthe top of the facing there are three rows of close stitching. Nixa Frrca. An American who saw Ibsen at a court ball in Norway recently says that the author’s small figure fairly blazed with stars, crosses, coliars, pendants and other decorations of all kinds from all sources. Food Removes wrinkles and all traces of age. It feeds through the pores and builds up the fatty mem- branes and wasted tissues, nour- ishestheshriveled and shrunken skin, tones and invigorates the nerves and muscles, enriches the impoverished blood vessels, and supplies youth and elasticity to theaction of the skin. It’s perfect. ale’s Skin Food, $1.50 and $3, at all drug- e nll M. "ALE,.HQ:RIIIMM“:; stores. MM m‘“‘:l ugu street, Chicago. NEW TO-DAY. TTPAR SEMI-ANNUAL Clearance Sale! BEFORE STOCK TAKING, HOUSEKEEPING GOE)_DS! 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