The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 16, 1895, Page 15

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY. JUNE 16, 1895, T { %tn A4l D) II Lty 0dd desigus in jewelry arede rigueur this season. For instance, a cat with its back humped up in the very act of fighting is described as quaint and curious. It is a combination of emeralds and gold. A poodle of oxidized silver set in diamonds is also in favor. Both of these are worn as brooches. Opal pins with oval head and pear-shaped opal, applied to the same pur- pose of a beautiful quality, full of chang- ing lights, are great favorites and make very lovely presents for bridesmaids. The old superstitions concerning these fateful stones will never be forgotten. Quite re- cently a friend of mine was sent a most lovely lacepin setwithopals. Shequickly replaced it in its case and returned it to the donor with the explanation that her birth month was not October. A good deal of attention has lately been devoted to turquoises, some beautiful specimens having been made up by Tiffiny. Arrows for brooches and for the hair in diamonds and sapphires meet hshicn's‘ wants exactly. One of the newest stars in diamonds has | between each point, flames introduced which gives it much additional fire. Now you might guess all day and never find out what are the very latest of the de- signs, so I shall tell you at once that they are the hansom cab and the coach in four. ‘What next I wonder? Perhaps sleighs will be the favorite winter brooch and a pair of skates entwined the latest in scarf- This is really not a bad idea of as opals would represent the snow peautifully. The revival of all colonial things makes the demand for great tortoise-shell combs very evident, indeed I have been admiring some to-day in the window of one of our jewelers. With the white kid belts now so much in vogue are shown large mother-of-pearl buckies—and speaking of belts reminds me that some wide belts of black silk elastic, a great improvement on any hitherto made, are being eagerly bought up. White serge costumes for boating and yachting are made in large numbers. These are faced with silk of the same hue. A dress of china blue duck, adorned with white duck cuffs and collar, is an ex- ceedingly pretty frock and is one worn by a young girl just sweet 16 at her country hor ut this combination is suitable for any young woman. White embroidery over the blue is also effective. During the last month a skirt newer in > than any I have described this sea- made its appearance in Paris. It round aLnuL nine yards, and this does seem to me too volumin- although I know it to be correct, I am ed that this particular style is very as the cut employed insures an abso- perfect hang of the folds, so we will ss hear more about it shortly. es seem to be trying to emulate the and now from six to eight ntity used for a pair; it i )t employed in these sleeves, s continue to concentrate on our bodices, and every - or complicated, every fold , every trimming of jewel or ffon or gauze, each and all ¥ out some idea which s necessary for our latest oose every any cheap and remark- v fabrics are to be seen on our counters do not make the mistake of pur- chasing too small a guantity of material. From eighteen to twenty-two yards are nec ry for a gown, and remember that to have a correct skirt it is absolutely Paris Cape for Summer Wear—This cape is here represented in embroidered satin, but would look equally well in brocade or chine. The fronts open on each side, which prevents the cape being creased by the arms. This is an under-vest and collar of pleated chiffon. The cape hangs very full and is gored. Gray crepon dress, with white satin collar, is made of light gray crepon, with a large eollar of white satin, trimmed with yellow guipure and edged with tiny little frills of Brussels lace. The belt and buttons of this are of steel and the collar is of a peculiar shade of gray. By the way, gray is one of the idols of the Parisian hour. Itisthe color, or, at least, I suppose I should say the want )f color, quite a change from the eternal gor- geousness which has been decorating our | frocks for the last few weeks. The neuter tints are, of course, paradozically, used with brilliant success. | vas covered with the same material, the | two plaits side by side about four inches | deep and sewn into _the waist band. This | prevents undue stiffness. A narrow steel | In the hem of certain skirts is still used. The latest crepon news—we always have to give a little bulletin about this im- | portant stuff—is that the plain or shot | crepons are the latest only when the bil- | lows or crinkles are of ‘“gigantic size.” A tea gown made of black crepon, with a t 4 insertion and edged with iace; this is lined throughout with black silk. abbed cape outlined with an infinitesimal ecru necessary to befurbelow the inside about half a yard up, and this means that rem- nants of silk are not to be despised. The petticoats are more beautiful and elegant than ever, the up-to-date woman having hers not only made of silks and laces but also of rich brocades, with a few more flounces than ever before. Chaffon, as well as laces, appears on them. 3 Appropriate petticoats for morning wear are composed of substantial batiste having silk flounces edged with lace and a bead- ing of baby ribbon. These appear in many colors. However, we may expect the old white affairs to be ‘‘the thing” efore long. Every kind of contrivance is resorted to in order to make gowns stand out enough, not too much. One of the most successful arrangements is to have at the back of the waist a couple of box plaits of French can- That is the exact expression used to describe them. I am truly curious to see them. Plain white capes having_the seams em- broidered are stylish. As'I said, the long glove is in style, as elbow sleeves are being made so_ twenty-button lengths will be worn, and to keep them in place a garter is worn around the top of the arm and these are composed of a tiny white ribbon, having jeweled studs and a buckle. They are delightfully pretty, as are also the large twisted serpents used for belt | fastenings. Emeralds, sapphires and tur- quoise are much used for this purpose with great success. Especially pretty is a blouse lately made of white moire and deep cream insertion over heliotrope satin. the elbow sleeves of heliotrope satin tied at the waist with a [ ) A lovely gown of Duchess satin. and plain. Waist consists of lovely lace over the tight-fitting bodice of safin. Ribbons of Dresden China pattern pink roses on pale- green ground complete this costume. satin ribbon belt. finishes the neck. Cornflower blue and magenta are quite the most fashionable colors where a touch of brightness is required—indeed, whole gowns are made in these colors. For in- stance, the Comtesse de Galiiffert, at the opera in_ Paris, lately wore a gown con- sidered charming of cornflower blue crepe and tulle, with many diamonds. On the same occasion the young Com- tesse de Castellane wore afreny pink gauze dress striped with gold, over pink The usual large collar < \ \ ) \»\"\s.“: R Gray Alpaca Costume—This gown is made in gray alpaca, with the coat double-breasted inthe front, with a full short basque at the back, the revers being faced with white silk, hemmed with black satin. Very effective in- deed are these revers. consider, that ever were seen, and nowa- days the reproduction of some of those charming gowns at the leading theaters has been received with marked approval by the leaders of fashion all over the world, and - what variety we have. Beautiful Mre. X. will order a Marie Antoinette fichu and a “Puritan” set of cuffs and collar almost in the same breath, and the next moment will warn madame that her next tea gown must have a real Japanese air about it, and I can assure you not one of us can deoide in which gown Mrs. X. looks the most charming. Many of us expect to spend a few weeks at a number of summer resorts, and as nothing injures delicate summer gowns so much as constantly being packed and re- o2 Dainty figured organdy over glace silk. Three rows of ribbon trim the bottom of ‘the skirt. mw/ Ww..u»““"/y DAUGHTERS OF CINCINNATI A New Patriotic Organization Recently Founded in New York. SOCIAL SIDE OF THE ORDER. Only Lineal Descendants of Officers Who Fought In the War Are Eligible. NEW YORK, N. Y., June 10, 1895.—The patriotic fire which has glowed with such fervor of late among the fair descendants of colonial and revolutionary sires is hav- ing new fuel added to the flames in the form of just one more organization whose aim is to inspire love of home and country. This is the Society of the Daughters of the Cincinnati, corresponding in requirement to that of the masculine Society of the Cincinnati, the country’s first patriotic order. It has lately been founded in New York City, and a movement is already on foot to form like societies in the remaining twelve States which, with New York, com- pose the thirteen original colonies. Each State society is to be governed by its own board of officers, but all will be subservi- | ent to the general society, just as the Na- | tional society of the Daughters of the American Revolution is the parent asso- ciation of all the local chapters through- out the Union. There is more of a flurry than ever among the patriotic all over the land, and the search for an ancestor is being pursued in hot haste while the revolutionary tea- kettle and Priscilla’s distaff are restored along the way. But the enthusiastic searcher has an even more difficult task be- fore her than of yore, for this time her pro- genitor cannot have been a dame, nor of the common herd, as allowable by the sis- ter revolutionary societies, but in accord- ance with the constitution he must be one of the masculine persuasion and a gentle- man of high degree. In plain English, any woman eligible to the new order must be the lineal descend- ant of an army or navy officer, no matter of what nationality, who fought in the war of independence. She must also be very nice and very well behaved, in addition, or_she will not prove acceptable to this dignified and ele- gant body of women. In the first Klace she must be invited to join their ranks. She must not offer her- self as a possible candidate for admission nor allow it to be supposed for a moment that such a condition of affairs would be agreeable to her. She must then be pro- posed by one ‘‘daughter” already within the charmed circle, seconded by another and recommended by a third, then run the gauntlet of the executive board. The Society of the Cincinnati was founded after the close of the revolution by French and American officers, and this society to-day, through the New York State branch, has acted as patron to its young sister associations. Anadvisory board, con- sisting of a number of the leading mem- bers, with John Schuyler, treasurer-gen- eral of the entire society, acting as chair- man, has been formed, and already lent most efficient aid to the ladies in organiz- ing their association. 'This new order has a social side, too, and one of its chief objects is to renew, foster and develop among its devotees the friend- ships formed and cemented amid the try- ing experiences of the great struggle. As soon as it is in thorough working order there are to be frequent and delightful re- unions at the homes of the different mem- bers, when patriotism, tea and talk will commingle and promote a lively esprit de corps among the fair dames in whose deli- cate veins flows such very azure blood. They are a charming coterie of dames, earnest, intelligent and attractive, and they mean to do some good work in arous- ing and gerpemating alove and respect for the land freed at such a cost by their heroic forefathers. The incorporators are Mrs. Howard Townsend, who is also president of the National Societir of the Calonial Dames of America, and of one of its constituents, the Society of the Colonial Dames of the State of New York. : The society’s president’ is Mrs. James M. Lawton, whois also the only woman associated on the executive committee of the Huguenots Society, with all its mascu- line representatives; the vice-president is Mrs. Howard Townsend. The insignia decided upon displays the head of the father of his country and the American eagle in all his glory. The colors are white and pale blue. The ladies are blessed with a goodly number of distinguished sires. It is re- corded of a colonial dame that she entered her association with thirty-five noted pro- genitors to back her. She might well share a few with her unfortunate sisters pining for one only. There is already a long waiting list of ‘women, the lineal ofisprinfi of revolution- ary official ancestry, and the Daughters of the Cincinnati have before them a future of usefulness and influence sharing in charac- ter and scove that of the like organizations, but unique of its kind. CoroLYN HALSTED. satin. The low bodice seemed a mass of gauze, the sleeves were short and low, quite below the shoulder, and then there was a shoulderstrap of jewels going over the shoulder, appearing to hold the bodice up. These epaulieres can be made of vel- vet or satin and the jewels placed on them. Now, on full-dressoccasions, the coiffures are varied, a few still wearing bandeaux, but most prefer to have their hair slightly waved and made into a small chignon rather high, a la Grecque, making the head look small, showing the nec , the nape and ears. Few ornaments are worn in the hair, excepting an aigrette fast- ened with a jeweled clasp or a dia- mond aigrette. Young girls wear a simple flower or a pointed bow. Many wear nothing whatever, but in all cases the style of the matron or girl must be carefully considered, as the French cor- rectly say that the becoming arrangement of the hair is of the first importance; next, of course, comes the shade, style and ma- terial of the gown. Different colored straws are fashionable. Blue, green and rose-pink are most in de- mand. % A Hats are increasing in size. The pictur- esque Louis X VI shape are most in vogue. These are worn well over the face, no front hair showing. Many Princessde Lamballe hats are to be seen, and are exact repro- ductions of those worn by the beaufiful Princess before the Reign of Terror, and are like large mushrooms, with bunches of flowers or rosettes of ribbon under the brim, ana great upstanding plumes in front. with quaint broad taffeta ribbon drawn plainly round into a bow with ends at the back. , The styles of the time of Louis XVI were the most beautiful and luxurious, I packed, and as there are some slight changes in fashions every few weeks, even if only in the way of tying a bow or drap- ing a bit of lace,” let ‘me advise you who are so fortunate as to have numerous toilettes to take with you at the start only what you need at once, leaving with your modiste your all but completed gowns, so that as you desire them they can be ex- pressed to you. You will be delighted Wwith this arrangement. as it will insure the latest touches and the most exquisi freshness. MaRrCELLA. The Yogi Breathing. The newest idea in physical-culture cir- cles has been revealed to several women by a high-caste Indian in the country. Itis called Yogi breathing, and it is intended to create an internal poetry of motion that is supposed to give women such control of themselves that when they attain per- fection in the art they may all but stop breathing and live. To breathe a la Yogis, as the Yogis themselves do, close one nos- tril and breathe in with the other durin, eight seconds. Then open the close§ nostril and close that one which was first used for inhaling and exhale the breath in two seconds through the nostril first closed. Then inhale through the one last used and exhale with the other. The motion should be, inhale eight seconds left, exhale two seconds right, inhale eight seconds right, exhale two seconds left, in- hale eight seconds left, exhale two seconds right. This should be continually prac- ticed, as it produces the poetry of breath- ing, the disciples of this Yogi idea aver, CLEVER GOTTINGEN GIRLS The Position of Woman at the Prussian University Is Defined. Aspliring Students Must Come Well Grounded and Prepared for Hard Work. Miss Isabel Maddison, B.Sc., writes to us from Gottingen as follows: The circum- stance that an English woman—Miss Chis- holm—has taken the degree of doctor of philosophy at Gottingen University is ex- citing general attention among all who are interested in the opening of universities of women; hut the facts concerning the real position of women at Gottingen Uni- versity and the conditions on which the degree is granted to them are as yet not very generally known. The movementis at present in its infancy. It is only within the last two years that women have been allowed to attend the university lectures; and this innovation, great as it is when the dearth of colleges for girls in Germany is considered, has come about so quietly and naturally that even in Gottingen itself it has hardly excited much remark, says and in time becomes second nature, 1t really produces a regularity of breathing that is beneficial. The Queen. Another cause leading to the same result is that the number of women students at 15 Gottingen is small, and made up for the most part of specialists, who have already taken their degrees elsewhere, and have come to hear some particular lecturer and really to attend the more advanced and less crowded classes. It is a dangerous thing to Krophes , but it seems highly probable that if the German universities are to be freely opened to women in the future, it must be to this type of student mainly; at any rate, this certainly applies to the immediate future. The course of events has been as follows: In the autumn of 1893 three women inde- pendently applied to be allowed to attend some of the mathematical and physical lectures at the University of Gottingen. Two were graduates of American colleges, and had been doing teaching and speci work; the third was a student of Girton College, Cambridge, who had passed both }mns of the mathematical tripos. Pro- essor Klein and the other professors whose lectures these women were anxious to attend very kindly fiave them all possi- ble help, and’ personally sent the applica- tion for admission to the university lec- tures to the Prussian Minister of Educa- tion. With each application was sent a detailed account of the work the student had done, and letters of recommendation from the professors under whom she had already studied. The reply was favorable and the women were at once allowed to register—not as students, for that involved “immatricula- tion” and other technical difficulties—but as ‘‘hospitants,”” i. e., guests or hearers. In the following year twelve women pre- sented themselves for admission and wers also admitted as hospitants, so that in the winter semester of 1894 fifteen women were attending the course of the philosophical faculty at the university. Seven of these studied mathematics, ~astronomy and physics, while others heard lectures on cheémistry. philosophy, history and politi- cal economy. Of these women three were English, one German and eleven American. It must not, however, be concluded from this rapid advance in numbers, that Got- tingen is opening wide its doors and wel- coming all comers. This is far from being the case. By no means are all the profes- sors in favor of the admittance of women; some utterly refuse to lecture to women; others take up a neutral position, and those who are most wiliing to extend the privi- leges of a university training to women are most anxious that it shall be done with discrimination, that the women students shall come well grounded and prepared for hard work and that no element of dilet- tantism shall appear. With this object in view, no general rules have been framed with regard to ad- mitting women, but each case is con- | sidered separately. The candidate for ad- mission must make herself known by means of testimonials, certificates, and an account of the nature and extent of the work she has already done, to a member of the faculty or professorial board. If heis willing to support her application, the testimonials, etc., together with the Frofessor's recommendation, are laid be- ore the curator, who is the official repre- sentative of the Ministry at the university, and are forwarded by him to the Prussian Minister of XEducation. If a favorable answer is received the curator instructs the pro-rector—i.e., the president of the professorial board—and he gives the official permission, which is, however, subject to the wishes of the individual lecturers. The permission of the lecturer must, lastly, be asked for and obtained before his lectures can be attended. The woman students at Gottingen are now enjoying all the privi- leges of the library and reading-rooms. They sttend certain of the seminaries, the | physical and chemical laboratories and the observatory. They pay the ordinary uni- versity fees. The next question which presented it- self was: Shall these women, if capable and anxious to offer themselves, be ad- mitted to the degree? The faculty care- fully considered the question, andy their decision was as follows: The faculty does not refuse to women, as such, permission to take the doctor’s examination, but re- serves to itself the right of presenting or refusing to present to the Minister any particular request for such permission. It is understood that the candidate must have fulfilled the usual requirements be- fore bein§ granted the degree. She must have studied three years at a German uni- | versity, ora university adjudged by the | | faculty to be of equal standard, the last | vear at least to be spent in Goettingen; she must present an original dissertation which possesses in the judgment of the faculty scientific value and have this after- | ward printed; she must pass an oral ex- amination in the subject with which her thesis deals and in two related subjects. | The matter stands so at present. One i lady (Miss Chisholm) has already fiulfilled | the requirements and obtained the degree. One or two more will shortly give in their | theses to the examiners. The Minister of Education has given his consent, but par- ticularly remarks that it applies to these | exceptional cases only. If the restrictions appear at first sight | irksome we must remember that the ques- | tion at issue is a very large one. Anything | that has so far been” done is in the nature of an experiment, and it is most desirable that the trial should be made with the best | material, that only afew women should | E;esent themselves, and that those should { thoroughly qualified to make the best | of their opportunities. The Sweet Odor of Almonds Clean, pure and pungent, pleases the nos- trils as the cork comes from a jar of Mme. Yale's celebrated Almond Blossom Com- plexion Cream. Foryears and ages women have sought a safe and certain preservative of the complexion. The sun in summer and the heat of stoves and steam in winter make Nature’s work too hard for her. 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