The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 9, 1895, Page 19

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JUNE 9, 1895. 19 P fl?flmwflmmflrmmnnwnmmqm e Hflmnn.—mrvwm.rmnmfiflm‘rm'[m L e 1 4 " 3 /, i \ u‘lhr; i Ty S e v R 2 P a 2o JiEHI T i */ v < = L/ mmmm f 2 u...‘nn Three things I have heard during the past week that belong in this column. The first is that women with beautiful figures are rebelling against the bloused front, declaring that if is well enough for defec- tive fizures, but they are not going to tolerate this style any longer. The second is that alpaca and mohair dresses will not be much worn here until fall, as the mills are unable to supply the tremendous de- mand for these lovely fabrics, even in the East; of course I allude to the new style alpacas and mohairs. The third is that glace and taffeta silk petticoats of all colors and shades have frills and flounces of white lace or of muslin edged with lace which can be easily removed and sent to wash. One skirt which I investigated had a fine ruffle of cambric deeply tucked and edged with lace e N % SN v The coat, a light sleeveless Eton, turns back, with velvet-lined revers, and over this the cape JSalls to the elbow, and to the waist at the back. It is lined throughout with brocade, and to be made in all the newest colors of cloth, com- plete with a plain skirt lined with linen. made to button on the skirt; this is an arrangement that all will appreciate who indulge in such pretty trifles. Made-over dresses have no terrors for us now-adays as the latest Parisian models cannot be reproduced unless many fabrics are used ; indeed some look as though the celebrated designers had been attending numerous remnant sales. One ver{ en- couraging tendency shown in the latest styles for cloth gowns is in favor of the moderate skirt, Ey that I mean not ex- ceeding six yards in width, for fancy the backaches people are going to have who try to go on long walks with serge collar and again at the belt or made with a round neck trimmed with frilis of lace just low enough to dispense with a stand- ing collar, and generally fastening at the back. The skirts are a'most plain, being gored a little at the sides and front plainly hemmed and hung over a sheer linen lawn or, better yet, a taffeta silk skirt. The sleeves are made in one or two puffs to the elbow, where they end with a band of in- sertion lined with lace. The white shirt frontis simply indispensable, and of course looks its best when of the most expensive materials, the finest being of chiffon, with an applique of lace upon it, but as this can- not be worn more than three times it can- not be recommended except to those who have ample means. Yoke trimmings are still popular on crepon. and wash gowns, many prett; ones being made of white satin covere with jet or heavy guipure lace, and when lace is used scari trimmings of the same fall to the skirt. ‘White satin continues to be used on all sorts of gowns, and when wrought with jeweled beads or jet is very pretty. Turquoise embroidery was used lately on a very handsome gown,the conception of a New York modiste; the buttons were very exquisitely enameled and flecked with black, the mounting being of jet. One of the new Bolero jackets is made entirely of jet, with great barbaric caba- chons, having points of braiding from the center, a sort of amazonian armor. Mother of pearl is being combined with steel as paillettes, as it is such a success with jet. There is yet another crepon called the “elastic,” which is intended to be made up over shot silk, for instance, a brown tint over brown shot with blue, the sleeves of the blue and brown shot silk with chine bouquets in the same coloring. This cre- pon will stand a great amount of wear, and really the cheaper kinds hardly pay to make up. Durimg the visit of the little Queen of the Netherlands to England it was remarked repeatedly how tastefully and appropriately she was gowned one afternoon: when driving in the park. Her dress was of pale gray silk crepon made in a stylish manner, with which she wore a hat of rough gray straw with many feathers of a contrasting shade. Like a truechild she enjoyed the novel sights, her bright eyes looking from under the wide hat brim with most evident interest. Instead of using so many buttons of in- ferior quality Rhinestones, let me advo- cate those of handsome cut steel. Pique bolds its own, for it is_to be had in the plain white and what is known as fancy pique, striped and spotted, in colors with a pale or dark ground. The newest | all have a glossy, satin-like surface, cov- | ered with some fancy pattern or striped with little bunches of flowers running be- tween the lines, and ther= are special de- signs suitable for vestings, and also for those who are fond of black and white only. Tiie el Floolb e pines ome s tha Tt fashionable shades of pink, blue, butter color, French gray and hyacinth. Artificial flowers are becoming, if possi- ble, more gorgeous than ever, and roses are the'rage at present, while corn flowers rank as second best. Now I want to tell you about an alpaca dress I liked. Itis a dull blue; the waist trimmed with straps buttoned with little gold buttons, showing a shirt front of white and a broad collar band and belt of blue and white checked ribbon. The ef- fect is excellent. A very beautiful dinner toilette, now ready for Monterey, has a skirt of rich pink satin absolutely plain, hanging beau- tifully. The waist is of cream white lace over the pink satin, the sleeves being com- This dainty evening bodice is of soft satin, trimmed with guipure. % skirts measuring ten yards in circumfer- ance; and better still the summer gowns are being made without any hair-cloth ex- cept a narrow facing at the foot and the most elegant costumes are without the heavy interlining, which is so clumsy, be- ing difficult to arrange. All skirts con- tinue to fit closely around the hips. Crepon in this climate if worn out of doors at present will not last long, as the dust settles in the little ridges and is most difficult to remove, as a thorough dusting makes the material stretch out of shape. The magpie gzown I described months ago is as much the style as ever. The blouse is now admitted by the best modistes to be correct for outdoor wear, they having given it their sanction in the form of nu- merous delightful toilettes. All the women in Paris are wearing black crepon or light- colored alpaca skirts, with many-hued blouses, hats gorgeous with flowers, and parasols whose handles are works of art. A npew skirt model is strapped about fif- teen inches below the waist, forming box- leats all around. This style, excepting or a tall, slender woman, would, I should think, ‘be_simply dreadful. Such skirts have no lining, as it would be too bulky, and, as a matier of course, crepon never figures in this skirt, as it must of necessity be lined. . o i The popularity of plaid- is on the in- crease, as far as ribbons are concerned. They figure constantly on plain linen and cambric frocks in combination with much Jace. A light buff batiste dress will have a collar and cuffs of orange and crimson rib- bon, while all its little ruffles are edged with butter Valenciennes lace. into flat pleats across, and an over-bodice entirely;made of the muslin and the insertion. | inmer jacket of white cloth, with gold buttons | plaid lining and plaid ruche. cords Yachting Costume.—This is made of blue cloth, with the short jacket showing a simulated i, natred upom.it; one side of the skirt is fastened down, while the other displaps a panel f the white cloth with the buttons, and the | steeves have a stripe of white cloth down. them. This costume can be completed with a cape of | blue cloth, with white motifs upon it, this showing distinct touches of originality in its vivid out of the water the wearer is a sight to behold, if angular, as it certainly leaves but little to the imagination as far as out- lines are concerned. A gown of grass- hopper green taffeta took my fancy the other day, trimmed with a gay plaid ribbon and black lace. It is a costume to be worn as a dinner dress this summer and makes the wearer’s flaxen hair and delicate com- plexion look a few degrees prettier than usual. A gown of satin cloth in slate-color with revers and vest of white faille is very stylish, All the edges are bound with bias velvetina a shade darker. A young girl who expects to spend the summer making visits to all our interest- ing resorts has a costume of tweed made by a good tailor, with which goes a cape of the same material, lined with silk and trimmed with rows of black silk guipure. This gown has a short coat and numerous vests, making it just the thing for travel- ingand a good morning dress. Indeed, the owner prides herself on never taking much baggage, and yet always looking as well dressed asany one, so with the vests go several lovely blouse waists, a black crepon skirt, a dainty China silk, and a white silk skirt, with which go half a dozen evening waists—not much, and yet, with judicious management, amply suffi- cient. One of her blouses is from Paris, and has a broad, box-pleated, full front, caught up on the bust with wide lace, com- ing from the neck and forming points on the shoulder. She has another for evening This blouse waist is made of a rose du Barri and white shot taffeta silk, with the yoke set a and made of pale yellow muslin striped with insertion; the sleeves of this ore distinctly new, forming cascades down the back, the silk, which is pleated upon the shoulders to form pointed ends. showing the selvedge of The back of this bodice is posed of lace and chine ribbon cleverly mingled. : Discussing bathing dresses the other day we all decided that alpaca is the best material for that purpose, as it does not cling to the wearer, but readily sheds the water, and when trimmed with white mo- hair braid it can be very chic; only the best rgandie, mull and swiss dresses are lh?nuduéfln%bheneekhehw the ribbon alpaca should be used. Wash “silks are made up for this purpese, ,but on coming wear, from the same place, of the new silk stuff called moire glace, a soft and lumin- ous silk, admirable for evening wear, MarcELLA. e iy A Feared the Yoke. Buch a very nice man has just departed this mortal life in Vienna. He was a bach- elor, whatis more a misogynist of the most [ings. Eronounced principles. It would have een refreshing to have met him merely as a curiosity. The Daily News correspondent says that after his | death a bundle of documents was discov- ered labeled “Attempts made by my fam- ily to put me under the yoke of matri- mony.” Iam thankful that he never put a wite under the yoke of matrimony. So fearsome was the poor fellow of being even near one of the other sex thatif he went to a theater he took the precaution of booking three seats in the center of which he sat. " No Eve could approach his Eden. When traveling ina railway carriage he was careful to smoke a large, foul-smelling ¥ipe to keep away intruders in petticoats. n his will he begged his executors to bury him where no woman was interred either to the right or left of him. Were this not practicable he directed that they should purchase three graves, interring him in the middle one and leaving the other two un- occupied. Ishould like to have met this singular being. One almost admires him on ac- count of his consistency. There was no temporizing with the evil one on his part. He had certain views and was not ashamed to carry them to a logical conclu- sion. May no woman near his grave to disturb his slumbers. May his ashes rest in peace, unroused by feminine propin- quity. —_—— An Affaire du Ocur. (At West Point.) Venus Victrix, Cupid's mere, Follows fashion with a care; And since ghe was Vulcan's' femme, Thought a tasteful monogram Holding both their names complete Would, If chased, be very neat. Vulcan, when apprised of this, Tried to stop her with a kiss; Said Joveg thunderbolt mus® be Finished frst, and then—ne'd see. But, though skilled in battering.-rams He might fall in monograms. Venus shirugged and called for Cupld, Told him that his pere was stupid! Bade him quickly earthward wing, Search a monogram and bring Switt for her the longed-for treasure— Cupid flew to do her pleasure. Hasting past a favorite spot, Where he's tied fall many & “knot,” Sudden stopped, with agile wing Poised, exclaiming; “Just the thing1” Two gold V's were gleaming—two— On a sleeve of army blue. Cupid swooped t0 seize his prize Looked into—a'maiden’s eyes. Deeply brown and clearly calm, Straight forgot the monogram ! Blame him not. 'twas very clear That his help was needed here, “Won't you take my chevrons, dear?’, Tt was Cupid’s luck to hear. Then he helped to rip the thread ‘With his sharpest arrow-head. Saw the transfer with delight, Then resumed his airy flight. Sudden!y he cried: ‘By Jove! If I'm not a blooming cove " (By which you perceive the stripling Was acquaint with Rudyard Kipling). “But, could I be such & duffer As tolet my business suffer? . o e . Venus lost her monogram Cupid, who deserved & palm, Took his spanking with great calm. —LouisvilleCourier- Journal. Chl e o THE SUMMER HOME. Draperies play an important part in the furnishing of the summer home or the freshening of the winter one. Nothing makes more difference in the appearance of the house than a change in the hang- All heavy damask, chenille or silk curtains and portieres should be taken down, cleaned and packed away. Muslin curtains, bead portieres or bamboo hang- ings should be substituted. The woman who rejoices in home-made things will be pleased to learn that a Tug may be made rrom coffee sacks. Take a sack of the size required and hem it. Then from another sack cut strips eight inches wide, fold down the center (leavin, the double strips four inches wide) lng sew firmly to the foundation about half an inch apart, After it is all covered dye T m l.”" 1 the rug any desired color, and after it is dry fringe out the strips to half a dozen threads. QCak furniture and imitations of oak furniture continue to be among the best friends of the woman who fain would fur- nish her home prettily and inexpensively. Chiffoniers of graceful make may be had from $5 apiece up. Desks ranfie from $3 50 to $35. Bookcases and bookshelves are equally variable in price. Tables, chairs, settees, cabinets and the like are all pur- chasable at reasonable rates. Dotted muslin is always with the house- wife. On bargain days she may bqy it for 814 cents a yard. On other day} it _cost: about 10 cents, a difference which is ap- reciatle when one is curtaining an entire gouse. Dots of all sizes and colors are favorites. Old-blue dots the size of a dime are effective in blue rooms. Yellow is also light and pretty, while white adapts itself to all sorts of apartments. Denim is as delightfully cheap as ever and more delightfully varied in color and design. For 18 cents a yard one may pur- chase dull-colored, esthetic-looking mate- terial stamped with designs that bear strik- ing resembiance to those of the expensive brocaded damask. This denim is particu- larly designed for divan coverings, sofa- cushions and the like The favorite cheap divan is the cot bed with woven wire mattresses which cost be- tween $2 and §3. Over this is placed a hair mattress costing as much more. With a rug thrown over it and ‘Fillows‘plled upon it the eXect is good, and in point of com- fort the lounge has no equal. A very pre- *| sentable Bagdad cover may be bought for $450. The art mulls are exquisite. They cost from 8 to 15 cents a yard. Ivy leaves meander in cool, green prettiness down the length of some samples; marguerites blossom on others; clovers nod and pinks sway on others. They may be had in color effects to match almost any room. Serim is dear as ever to the heart of the summer cottager who manages to make an unplastered little dwelling in a pine wood habitable and almost luxurious. It is lace- like and dainty and costs only 33 cents a yard. There is a new sort of pottery, cheap but rather attractive on the market. It is coarse, gilt edged and adorned with curious old-fashioned pictures, proverbs and mottoes. S g GRAINS OF GOLD. 1f industry isno more than a habit, it is at least an excellent one. U you ask me which is the real hereditary sin of human nature, do you imagine I should answer pride, or luxury. or ambition, or egotism? No; I shall say insolence. Who conquers insolence will conquer all the rest. Good principles stagnate without mental activity.—Zimmerman. One means of confirming and establish- ing one’s effections is by serving the loved. Nothing endears one person to another so much as ng and serving him, especially if self-sacrifice is involved. ~Givine what is valued always increases affection to the re- cipients, even if it be only material benefits that are conferred, much more when it is our time, our labors, and ourselves. The certainty that life cannot be long, and the probability that it will be much shorter than nature allows, ought to Nzp 7! This cut represeuts a hat with the brim made of black jetted net; the crown in quaint points is studded with sequins, and from this falls a frill of black chiffon edged with cream-colored Valenciennes lace, while ro- settes of this chiffon and lace areat either side, and a bunch of pink roses at the back. awaken every man to_the active prosecu- tion of whatever he is desirous to perform. It is true that death may intercept the swiftest career; but he who is cut off in the midst of an honest undertaking has at least the honor of falling in his rank, and has fought the battle, though he missed victory. ARSI S ONE THING AND ANOTHER. ‘What is the difference between bayonets and bullets? Bayonets are driven, but bullets are lead. A sociable man is one who, when he has ten minutes to spare, goes and bothers somebody who hasn’t. Counsel—Why are you so very precise in “| your statement? Are you afraid of telling an antruth? Witness (promptly)—No, sir. Young ladies who faint on being “pro- posed to”’ can be restored to conscionsness by just whispering in their ear thatyou were only joking. “What is your name?’’ asked a teacher of a boy. “My name is Jule,” was the reply, wixereupon the teacher impressively said: “You should have said ‘Julius, sir. And now, my lad,” turning to another boy, “What is your name?’ “Billious, sir.” Soon after Lord Sidney’s elevation to the peerage he happened to observe, in com- any, that authors were often very ridicu- ous in the title they gave. ‘‘That,” said a poet who was present, ‘‘is an error from wEich" even kings appear not to be ex- empt. It is really smvoking, when you have elaborately and with much pains related an anecdote which to you seemed new and funny, to bave your auditor preserve a stolid countenance, and, to your question “Isn’t that pretty good ?’: reply, “Yes; always did like that story.” “What is it that keeps you busy, writin, so late in your study every mght?” aske Mrs. Yerger of her husband. “I am writ- ing the history of my life, Mrs. Yerger.” “15 suppose you mention me in it?” *Qh, yes; Icall you the sunshine of my exist- ence.” “Do 1 really throw so much sun- shine into your daily life?” ‘“I refer to you as the sunshine of my existence be- cause vou make it hot for me.” A risein the thermometer occurred immediately after the foregoing conversation. TSR UE S FROM THE FRENCH. One wearies delightfully with women. Love is the poetry of the senses.—Balzac. Love begins too well to end well.—Du- mas. The morals of the world are only cas- uistry. ‘What a husband forbids a wife desires.— Proverb. All bow to virtue and then walk away.— De Finod. The worst of all misalliances is that of the heart.—Chamfort. Love is the beginning. middle and end of everything.—fncordnire. The world ceases to be a pleasure when it ceases to be a speculation. There is no game of chance more hazard- ous than marriage.—J. Aavid. Love is a torrent that one checks by dig- ging a bed for it.—Commerson. Whoever has learned to love has learned to be silent.—Mme. de Sartory. Philosophy teaches us to bear with calm- ness the misfortunes of our friends. Homeliness is the best guardian of a young girl’s virtue.—Mme. de Genlis. Nothing is more difficult than to choose a good husband, unless it be to choose a good wife.—J. J. Rousseau. ‘Women are happier in the love they in- spire than in that which they feel; men are just the contrary.—Beauchene. The rudest man inspired by passion is more persuasive than the most eloquent man if uninspired.—La Rochefoucauld. e A MOMENT WITH MILTON. .F;“““ is no plant that grows on mortal soil. Peace has her victories no less renowned than war. ‘Who overcomes by force hath overcome but half his foe. Smiles from reason flow, to brute denied, and are of love the food. Revenge, at first though sweet, bitter ere long back on itself recoils. To know that which before us lies in daily life is the prime wisdom. Truth is as impossible to be soiled by an outward touch as the sunbeam. ‘What boots it at one gate to make de- fense and at another to let in the foe? "Tis chastity, my brother, chastity. that has that is clad in complete steel. For solitude sometimes is best society, and short retirement urges sweet return. The mind is its own place, and in itself can make a heaven of hell, a hell of heaven. A grateful mind by owing owes not, but still pays, at once indebted and discharged. Virtue could see to do what virtue would by hemown radiant light, though sun and moon were in the flat sea sunk. She One New England factory employs 12, 000 women. The Sweet Odor of Almonds Clean, pure and pungent, pleases the nos- trils as the cork comes from a jar of Mme. Yale’s celebrated Almond Blossom Com- plexion Cream. Foryears and ages women have sought a safe and certain preservative of the complexion. The sun in summer and the heat of stoves and steam in winter make Nature’s work too hard for her. The dust that is always in the air grinds itself into the sensitive skin. Soap and water are not enough to get it out and to soothe and soften the dry, chapped skin. Yale’s Complexion Cream ‘Will do it. It cleanses the skin and its pores, softens the foreign matter within and without, soothes all irritation, cools the heat of chapping and fever blisters and gives a satin surface to the suffering skin. It is good for burns and for any abrasion. A single application is effective. Put iton at night and rub it briskly into the skin and you will be pleasantly astonished in the morning. There have been imitatious of this wonderful beautifier. Look ont for them. Accept nothing but the real. It your druggist will not supply you send the rice, $1. to MME. M. YALI, Health and Besuty Guide mailed free. ymplexion Specialist, 146 State st., Chicago. NEW TO-DAY. (ITYzPARIN BIGGEST CUT EVER MADE IN INDIA SILKS! |All This Seasen’s Importation, Worth from $1.00 to $1.75 per yard 9130 vards INMENSE VARIETY &) OF STYLES to bo sacrificed at.... 2UG 3000 yards to be sacrified at... X 650 2500 yards BROCHE INDIA, elegant and exclusive designs, $1 50 quality, to be sacrificed at ................ 75¢ EXTRA SPECIL ! BLACK SILKS 30 pieces New Brocades - - - - -- $1.00 per yard See These Unprecedented Yalues. SHIRT WAISTS! LATEST STYLES WASH WAISTS from 75¢ upward. A FULL LINE LATEST NOVELTY IN SILK WAISTS. SUMMER SKIRTS from 75¢ upward. | TENNIS BELTS, in Silk and Wool, from 25¢c upward. G.VERDIER & GO, S. E. Cor. Geary St and Grant Ave, S, B, VILLE*PARIS BRANCH HOUSE, 223 SOUTH BROADWAY, LOS ANGELES. WHALEBONE. PACIFIC STEAM WHALING COMPANY'S Genuine Shell Whalebone “Orca Brand.” Specially Prepared and Selected for the DRESS GOODS AND CORSET TRADE. All Sizes. Every Package Guaranteed. One trial will convince you of its mer superiority over all other brands in the market. LADIES ste that sour dressmakers do 4 not use inferior grades or substi- tutes. NONEEQUAL T0 OUR “ORCA BRAND.” Never breaks, most elastic, lasts longest, cheap- est and best. For sale by all the leading dry-goods houses Office and Faetory, 30 California Street, SAN FRANCISCO. LI PO TAI JR.’S Herb Sanitarium, No. 727 Washingten St., Cor. Brenham Place, abova the plazs, San Francisco, Cal. A.M. to Office hours 11 2 9P, 1443 Linden Street, Oakland. Dear Sir: It is now about four months since T was recommended by friends to attend vour sani- tarium. I had for & long time been af epilepsy and wasunder the care of sk but obtained no permanent relief un consulted you. The herb teas procure sanitarium had the magical effect of L a complete cure. I shall most earnes ¥ou to all who are ailicted. Y ox Chichester’s English Diamond Drand. ENNYROYAL PILLS €enulne. Ty R, eiah z@ » de. Red and Gol * metaltic! es, soaied with bise ribtor. T ions and imitations. in_stampe for i tglief for Ladien” & 1-rver. Mull 10,000 Tesiimonials. Name Popers ‘Chicheater Chemicul Co., Mudlson Squa Local Druggisis. Philads., Pa i | | 2 Millinery LATEST 2xine i ¥ portations from Paris in Hats, Laces, Flowers, FEATHERS, RIBBONS, Ete., Ete. THE LARGEST STOCK EVER DISPLAYED IN THE CITY. ARV YRTIVILIIVIVVAVEHVINN VY 1024 -1028 MARKET 8T. BRANCH—999 MARKET ST. VYRR VAR