The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 2, 1895, Page 19

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JUNE 2, 1895, 19 ) T T fi‘ ,mnnxm” E 7 = URORuat m i $ ,(J ) The latest Paris fashion notes state that skirts are by no means decreasing in width, as a well-known designer has recently used eighteen yards for the skirt of a black- spotted satin, which has a box-pleated back and the front is adorned with a large bow. Stole ends descend from many bodices, and never before have such beau- | tiful buttons been seen, for instance, pearl buttons are set in steel or jet, and china- painted miniature buttons are with buta metal rim. Then there is a new mother- of-pearl pailette, which, mingling with others, has the most unique effect in em- broidery. Crimped silk gauzes in brilliant colorings are much used for dresses, bodices and gleeves. One of Paquin’s prettiest models for the season is a gown having a skirt of cerise silk, with a fine black line stripe; the bodice, white chiffon back and front, with a shaped trimming of black net, covered with steel, and an applique of the finest Brussels point. Attached to this were square ends, which fell over each shoulder. Venetian velvet, the groundwork covered ‘&m"&"fiq |] l o _a — e = T a i 411\ T | a white turnover collar of white corded ‘ silk and guipure medallions, the ends | passing under the arms. We bave all admired the shot silks and | now can express our opinion about the | | shotalpacas. I have heard that an alpaca gown of mauve shot with green, worn by a New York girl, is very swell. It has a green waistcoat with artistic buttons, but the combination does not excite my admir- ation. A dainty little woman who lives here is very good to look at in a gray alpaca—one of the coarse-grained ones— with a very large collar of white silk, dotted with black and edged with a pretty kilted frill of dead white cambric. The cuffs are deep and_have the same finish. The pouch vest is of the silk and the jaunty coat is quite short and full over the ips.” A waistband of black satin is worn. he new lawns are quite popular. They are a sort of fine Hollung, with colored spots. A gown made of this fabric has the bodice composed of linon to match the spots and draped from each shoulder, passing round the waist and one end falls over the skirt. The sleeves match the skirt, while long cuffs are made to match the lace vest or the material of the dress. For tall, slender girls this model is ex- cellent. A large buckle should hold the draped linen at the waist line. The gown N N \ N N 4 e ‘\if‘ 1 ) 7 ‘("'f & Dinner Gown in rich pink broche, shot with reseda.—Panels of pink satin, embroidered with beads, sequins and pearls in a floral pattern to match the broche. Low bodice, court ehape, in pink satin studded with sequins and beads. Large full sleeves, open on the shoul- der, over which is a strap covered with garlands of roses. Falling berthe of fine lace with elegant Louis XVI pattern. with chine flowers of every shade, toning one into the other and forming a lovely blending of colors, has just been placed on the fiarket, and so has a brocade of white velvet which has fine and lace-like de- signs and sometimes geometrical patterns or conventional floral ones scattered over it, but mostly real lace designs, which are exceedingly novel and most beautiful, Dressmakers continue to predict that our sleeves shall continue to decrease in bulk, and many slender girls have their puffs appear much lower down, midway be- tween the shoulder and elbow. Thisde- crease in size may be safely looked for, as we cannot have larger sleeves, and as Dame Fashion seems to have resolved to devote her special attention to our sleeves, we may in another year find that the allowance of a yard per sleeve is ample. Howeyer, [ trust we may never have to wear those dreadful tight sleeves, which made even the prettiest hands in the world ugly, be- cause they could not be white with an im- peded circulation. The cape and coat have joined hands, realizing that in union thereis power; the result is an ideal outdoor garment, result- ing from which we have a fascinating cos- tume for summer, the coat being a light sleeveless Eton with velvet revers; fitting over the coat is the cape, falling to the elbows in front and to the waist line in the back. It is lined throughout with shot silk or brocade, and this model will appear in all the newest colors and combinations, in lightweight cloths. The gkirt is full and ample and lined with linen. A gown I like is one of covert coating, the skirt plain and full, hanging periectly, then there is the Eton jacket cut above the waist to show a folded band of black satin, the revers are lined with the satin laid on to outer revers of white cloth, showing a waistcoat of white satin made full with a box pleat adorned with hand- some buttons. The sleeves are all that can be desired and they turn back with cuifs of the black satin, showing a border of the white cloth. When reading of all the crinkled and striped mohairs and alpacas now so much in vogue, we can understand why the old- fashioned materials are selling so cheaply, and for petticoats at this season they de- mand our attention, as nothing sheds the dust better; a few ruffles of silk making them very presentable. : An excellent dress, just completed, is of black and white finely striped muslin with a yoke and box pleat descending to the waist of white corded silk studded with uipure medallions. The pouch ice, eld in place by a black ribbon waistband, is formed by bands of mohair united by a narrow yellow insertion of stitching, the cuffs to the Bishop sleeves corres) nding, while a tiny edging of pale yellow lace runs round the white silk, and collar band is trimmed with a French bow in front. The skirt is immensely full and abmlnt:hy plain. This toilet is completed by the ad- dition of a chic little cape of mohair with worn by the bride of Lord Beresford at her third wedding was 1n most excellent taste, meriting the full description I shall quote: “The Duchess wore a handsome Louis Quinze coat of pearl gray brocade, with waistcoat and revers of martchless point d’Argentan jace and diamond buttons. The | skirt of the same brocade, in a bold design of satin roses, was slightly trained and per- fectly plam. Her Grace wore a pale gray velvet bonnet embroidered with pearls, with a gray ostrich feather and wreathed round with white violets, the face being covered with a small white Jace veil. The Duchess held a silyer-bound prayer book.*’ Mrs. Bayard sat in the front pew and was attired in silver gray fancy silk trimmed with white satin. The bride departed on her honeymoon bestowed on the bands at the wrist, which are much embroidered. Among the greatest novelties are the string-colored batiste bodices, made full back and front and untrimmed, the sleeves matching the skirt. They are considered suitable to wear with any material. A tea jacket is very fetching made of a roseate velvet with Eton fronts edged with a frill of the same, while the front is one soft drapery of lace; the sleeves are called “sling. s{eeves" and are just like large but very decorative slings, they are of velvet with crinkled sleeves tight fitting, of lace underneath. Among the newest collars and cuffs are those known as the Shakesgcarean; they are tucked and embroidered and come in sheer cambric. Grenadine ribbon is a novelty and is said to look well on black bonnets. ‘White kid belts are the rage East. Box pleats for the front of bodices and the long scarfs of white muslin edged with frills are no longer sewn to the gown, but merely hooked, making them easily and quickly removable—which is a good idea, as one or two wears spoil their fresh- ness. A good idea for the frilled muslin and cambric prints is to use a perfectly fitting corset-cover; one absolutely plain, of course, as the foundation. Those using just a false front will find that it has no style whatever, because it will not stay in place properly. I am convinced that many women and girls do not wear proper cor- sets; for do we not constantly see little, short-necked women with their busts pushed up under theirchins, when, to have good figures, they should let their busts be in their natural position; besides, pressure in certain places frequently causes cancer, In Paris even the very modestly off mother would not think of letting her daughter wear a ready-made corset, know- ing that we all have shapes that differ, even when apparently mostalike, and com” pression is often most harmful; besides, satine corset will not fit into the figure as a coutil one will In this City there are certainly two excel- do not_try to make ready-made corsets fit by cutting them down in one direction and adding to them in another. Rather do without an extra hatand spend that money on making yourself more comfortable. Many young eirls here of 17 have not yet had on a corset, and without exception those whom I know have lovely natural figures, which, when corseted, a year or so hence, will be syoxled unless proper corsets, light and flexible, are worn. ~ Stout women should remember that pushing and com- pressing the flesh in one direction only makes it very apparent in another. Remember when looking bright and fresh you should not wear veils with dots or figures, but on the other hand, when fagged and weary, the dots, etc., cast mer- ci?ul shadows over the face. MARCELLA. MY AUTOGRAPH. My autograph she be; When first ber beaut ed, the night ed my sight; 3 ou know,” quioth she, ~Bat something nice beside; maybe A poem or a maxim trite.” 1 yielded to the witching licht Of her soft eyes, and did indite, Entwined with flowers of poesy, My autograph. She perches on my knee to-night, b . Ah, woe is mei hand 1 see e write— My eheck-book in h And once again she ¢ My autogrs CLARENCE H. PEARS N in Lover's Year-Book. - IBRARY. A GIRL'S Literature. It is said that one can judge of the char- acter of a man by the books in his private Whether this is supposed to be true or not of womenI do not know, but it so hap- pened that not long since I was in the sitting-room of a certain young woman, |and out of curiosity I glanced over the | titles of the books on her desk and writing- table. She is a preity girl and has been a belle for many a day. One would think her a mere butterfly to see her in the social swim, and the people who casually meet and know her doubtless consider her the average woman—medium clever, medium {wetty. medium_attractive—and yet, when saw her bookshelf, I realized she was dif- ferent from most women, and perhaps a trifle more of many things than appeared upon the surface. First, there was Meredith’s “Lucille”— Humph, my ladv is most sentimentall Next to it, however, was a volume of Emly Dickinson’s poems, and sentimental maid- ens do not read Dickinson. After that came Heine’s “Book of Songs,”” and the frequent pencil marks and dog - eared leaves showed constant reading. Then, with a bound from poetry to prose, came Hamilton Mabie’s *‘Literary Interpreta- tions”” and a volume of essays by Andrew Lang; a red-bound copyof Ella”Wheeler | Wilcox and a paper-back “Coin’s Finan- lace, the square collar being trimmed with | when purchasing corsets remember that a | lent corset-makers, there may be more, so | It Included Almost Every Phase of | library and those that lie on his desks. | cial School” were side by side, and next to them was the *‘Crito” and “Apology’’ of Piato. Daudet’s “Jack™ and *The Dolly Dialognes” were piled up on a stack of magazines and in a far corner I espied a selection of clippings from Truth, and an old copy of the ‘‘Rubaiyat of Omar Khazzam.” And, oh! I must not forget, there was also a_“Buddhist Catechism,” and an Episcopalian prayer-book there and thrust into a desk cubby-hole was a pocket edition of Emerson. Now, all these books were read by this young woman and were among her intimate possessions; and yet what deduction of character or inclina- tion could be gathered from such a col- lection of uncongenial elements as lay in those books. It may be true of a man [ H‘H?” came necessary for the League of Ameri- can Wheelmen to especially legislate against her elizibility to races under dif- ferent official sanction. Instances_have been known of women competing in West- ern races, and in view of the point that the Western delegates were most strenu- ously opposed to admitting bloomer-wear- ing riders the proof of the pudding seems lo%e that it is distasteful. "Are the bloom- ers themselves to blame for this setback to the aspirations of a class of women riders who believe that their sghEre is among | class A and class B racers? The wisdom of this step on the part of the L. A. W. is ap- arent, and credit is due the organization in that, by curbing the inclination of some females who might seek to make spectacles Costume in Heliotrope Poil de Chevre—Callar and loose fronts of velvet. la Henry II in fawn cloth, embroidered with white satin flowers, gold thread and sequins. | Square-crowned toque, with black lace brim, jetted wings and roses. Jabot of fine lace. A justancorps a that one can judge his character by what iie reads, but what would you make of the younir woman who reads” the books of which I have told you?—Louisville Times. It has been frequently stated that the reason European riders could not equal the fast time of our best riders is that the European tracks are smaller than the Amercan tracks, and consequently v more turns to the mile. A new track now being built at Brussels which will remedy this defect, as it will measure half a mile, with straights of 775 yards. The European riaers will now have an oppor- tunity to prove their vaunted prowess. Proof of the importance of woman as a cyclist is furnished by the fact that it be- Pretty cape of dark moss-green silk, with ciroular pieces of lace insertion, showing lin- ing of crimson silk. Dainty bow of creamy lace with scarf ends. New sailor hat, trimmed with wings and bows. attired in a gown of pale heliotrope cloth with sleeves of shot Venetian brocade, the Knmrn being in raised gray velvet on pale eliotrope silk, and collar and cuffs of int d'Alencon. Over this she wore a harles X mantle in stitched cloth lined with the same rich brocade as her sleeves. The toque which completed the costume harmonized exquisitely. stances, and some of the e ¢ waists are | some black lace. High ru; showing this style, great attention being ! feathers. Dm'gwl?y a - £k Light summer evening The Bishop sleeve is gaining favor, the | sprigged net over royal newest shirt waist baving it _in mani in- min”n'bbm of r:g wrap of black purple glace silk. rk grem.f Cape of ha 0] aris house. Tea gown in fancy pongee silk. The bodice at the back is shaped into the waist with fine icked ostrich | Stuck. Tucked revers and sleeves edged with lace. Full front of muslin and lace, of themselves on the racetrack, the sport is kept purer and more fascinating to women who ride for actual benefits which proceed from the exercise and for the pleasure and convenience of easy and graceful locomo- tion. The racing contingent has a sphere— in dime museums on pedals that turn clock-faced indicators. The Wheel says the interest of cycling is already being looked for in connection with the great World’s Iixhibition at Paris in 1900, to celebrate the first year of the twentieth century. The commission of physical exercises suggests the holding of twenty-five race meets and two exhibi- tions of cycling military maneuvers. A great road competition is also_planned, starting and_finishing at the Vincennes exhibition. In addition, the sub-commis- sion indicates the necessity for a sports section of the exhibition, in which shall be gathered all the objects, etc., relating to each class of sport, and aiding in the illus- tration of its development and history. To effect all this the sub-commission asks for a total vote of $40,000, in order that all who enjoy any prominence in the cycling world at the time may be attracted to these proposea great cycling festivals. He Loves Me, Loves Me Not. O dear little daisy, come whisper me softly And tell me a secret I'm longing to know; His name will lie hid in your golden heart ever; Oh, say, does ne love me, and whisper it low. Foln: heart, you are throbbing, and cheeks, you are alin One after another the white petals fall. O birds, cease your singing, and sun, hide your shining, For the daisy has said that he loves not at all. Tears do not fall, there is somebody coming, Somebody’s footstep is here by niy side; Somebody holds me quite close to his bosom, And whispers, “My darling, the daisy has Tied.” —Cap and Gown. e T The Wardrobe of Mme. Sans Gene. Empire effects have so invaded this pres- ent decade that much glibness and sem- blance of knowledge have developed about them. Every woman thinks she knows all about Empire gowns, at least a bit of con- fidence that is considerably shaken when she sits through a performance of “Mme, Sans Gene,’’ as now staged at the Broadway Theater. There, Empire gowns are set in an environment that suits them, and they are themselves of such richness and beauty that their historic charm becomes a dis- tinctly new impression. The simple frocks of the Rue Sainte Anne in the prologue are a good foil to the splendor of the rest of the play. Miss idder is very fetchingin the gray skirt and white fichu, with jaunty cap and apron, and her magnificence receiving royafiy in the castle does not obliterate the picture she makes over her irons in the laundry. The gay scene in the drawing-room, where this reckless Dncpmonce ‘washer- woman, defies conventio: , and tries | revolutionaty movement, and | burning enthusiasm_intensified the zeal of | peopl | gear on her shoes and dresses in the presence of whoever may come. gives a chance for 8 very pretty deshabille, in which lace- flounced petticoats and a_handsome cami- sole of orange ottoman silk assists. Every woman studies eagerly, too, the dainty corset which is disclosed in the moment of transition between camisole and riding habit, and admires Miss Kidder's skillful adaptation of the little boned girdle which is the Empire belt of the French woman. ‘When the. stage begins to fill with the gorgeously dressed personages gathering for the reception—for the men make as| brave a show as the women—one wonders how the Duchess can garb herself to wqrthil‘y meet all this splendor. Miss Kidder’s entrance in a gown of heavy brocaded satin, thickly embroidered with silver, a court train of red velvet, sweeL- ing from her shoulders, solves the prob- lem and testifies, too, that a blonde can wear that warm color, if she knows the shade to select and the proper adjustment of the fabric. In the last two acts, which are practi- cally one, a cloak of extraordinary ele- ance and beauty takes -part. It is full | ength, and is of turquoise-blue plush, em- | broidered with silver oak leaves: its ermine lining creeps over the front edges in long stole ends, and sets about the neck and shoulders in a high and deep cape collar. A woman who saw it at Satur- day’s matinee finished a long enjoyment of ‘its marked and impressive beauty with | the remark. “That cloak ought to bein- | cluded in the cast of characters.” It may be said incidentally that it suits Miss Kidder to perfection.—New York Times. THE WOMEN OF FRANCE. Heroines and Martyrs Who Have Ex- erted a Powerful Influence. At all times in France women have exer- | cised patient influence, practically, socially and sentimentally. The country of Jeanne d’Arc has never lacked heroines and mar- tyrs. During the reign of Catherine de Medici’s miserable so: their Italian mother, by her absolute, cruel and narrow- minded policy, plunged the country into the horrors of Bartholomew, which were only equaled by the excesses of the Reign | of Terror. During the corrupt reigns of Louis XIV and Louis XV the influence of women at court and therefore all over France was paramount and entirely per- nicious to the welfare of the people. Women in all ages have matched the men; so, as noble aspirations, unselfish- ness, love of justice and right were at a discount among the men who crowded the courts of the licentious Bourbons, where | the debauchery and depravity were unpar- alleled since the era of Tiberius and Com- modus, the throngs of titled courtesans merrily joined their royal and aristocrati lovers in spending the revenues ex from the miserable peasants with tears of blood, until similar tears were extorted from them in turn by the revolution they originated. i Many generations of bad government by kings, courtesans and courtiers, the Op- pressions of the rich clergy and nobles, | who monopolized all that was worth hav- ing in the State and exacted their taxes | and seignioral dues from those who at last | had nothing left to tax, culminated in the i 2 vears immediately preceding 178! ance, and bred in the t a ferocity of hate for their oppres fierce love of the principles of liberty an overwhelming desire for its immediate fruition. In 1789 women of all classes threw themselves with ardor into the great by their the men and urged them on to heroic deeds of self-sacrifice and duty to suffering bumanity. | Women of noble and unselfish ideals, | such as Mme, Roland, or of stainless life fascinating, fearless, unhappy Theroigne de Mericourt, the heroine of the women’s | | mareh to Versailles, or the women of the | full of hate and desire of ven-| e, ¢, who crowded round the guillotine 3, utterinz ferocious shouts and counting with exultation the ghastly heads as they fell before the ax of Sanson, were one and all animated by the same passiol ate love of liberty, the mother of all vir- tues. All were ready to sacrifice their lives gladly for freedom, conscious of the right- eousness of their cause and of its ultimate triumph. Many unthinking, superficial people even now, who have never known what it is to uffer and be despoiled to support the lux- nts, while shuddering 1t the excess » Reign of Terror, en- v ignore the causes of the sanguinary deeds which stand forth so luridly. They do not realize that nothing but a terrible baptism of blood could bhave regenerated such rrupt country and purgzed it from its grossness and selfish_indifference to wrongdoing. It was a civil war in an- other form. When the day of vengeance came how s it that the women seemed more ferocious than the men? The an- swer is very simple. They had suffered more, and “great miseries are always fero- cious.”—Belgravia. —— Bach’s mother had a marvelous ear for music. He said she was a better judge of music than his father. The Sweet Odor of Almonds Clean, pure and pungent, pleases the nos- trils as the cork comes from a jar of Mme. Yale’s celebrated Almond Blossom Com- plexion Cream. Foryears and ages women have sought a safe and certain preservative of the complexion. The sun in summer and the heat of stoves and steam in winter make Nature’s work too hard for her. The dust that is always in the air grinds itself into the sensitive skin. Soap and water are not enough to get it out and to soothe and soften the dry, chapped skin. NEW TO-DAY. TEPAR GREAT INDUCEMENTS —IN VASHGOODS DEPARTMENT! DUCKS—LAWNS—DIMITIES—PIQUES GINGHAMS—PERCALES—BATISTE —AT— 10¢, 12%0_ and15c¢. SPECIAL! BEST QUALITY GENUINE SCOTCH CHEVIOT AND MADRAS— Regular price, 50c, B b our ar 25€ SWIVELED SILKS! Regular price, 60c, 4 ro crose ar 40¢ ALL OTHER FINE NOVEL WASH GOODS HAVE BEEN REDUCED IN PRICE. Gemnine AL-Wol French Chale TO BE SACRIFICED. All New THE— 2000 Yards at 200 5= 2500 Yards at 99C G.VERDIER & G0, S. E. Cor. Geary St and Grant Ave., S F, VILLE“PARIS ; and character like Charlotte Corday, or the | BRANCH HOUSE, 223 SOUTH BROADWAY, LOS ANGELES. ARE YOU GOING TO THECOUNTRY? 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