The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 19, 1895, Page 19

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MAY 19, 1895. paratively few, such a gown being a costiy affair. The very best of white cloth or flannel must be used over glace or taffeta silk, and a first-class tailor must handle it. With care this toilet may be worn a dozen times, then its beauty is gone for- ever, as after being cleansed it never has the same appearance, so I shall advocate perfectly made pique dresses, for they do | up most beautifully and suit the average purses. % Have you seen the contrivances for the sleeves of wash waists? If you havenot let me advise you to invest at once, as they are on sale here, cost $1, and look like lit- Gown of very handsome black silk crepon, with dark green satin bows and rosettes. The waist is of the richest combination of twisted cords of green and black silk. The effect is exquisite. 0Odd, is it not, how some women will send back a bodice half a dozen times to their dressmakers on account of a slight imperfection, and yet will wear false fronts three shades lighter than their own hair, and yet appear totally oblivious of the ridiculous appearance they present? False fronts are doubtless blessings when the hair becomes toc thin, but look to it that that they do not remain youthful in ap- pearance while the growing hair shows un- mistakable traces of age. All fashion notes nowadays allude to the constant use of laces, and assuredly nothing is more effective for adornment tle bustles. Having tried them myself I | do not hesitate to say they area boon and | set faultlessly. | The correct canary and maize colored | gloves, bound with black kid and button- | Tng with from three to four good sized but- | tons, are also on the counters. Much is thought about gowns for the | sweet girl graduates, and the best authori- ties advocate dainty crepons, muslins or organdies, of course, but dainty silks with a white ground, covered with choice blossoms, are being much used for college graduates as presumably they are | about to make their debuts and such | gowns are more useful than muslins, | etc., under the circumstances. Muslins, | organdies and lawns are charmingly pretty, | made up with the wide godeted skirts and round waists and appropriate ribbons, when worn over colored silks. Two or | three silk skirts or waists will make the foundation for many changes. The silk skirt should be godeted and almost if not iquite as wide as the muslin one. than lace or fur, but some people will in- sist on using very cheap productions with handsome materials. Now, I am thinking of a really handsome gown of peau de soie worn by a matron here. Her bonnet has Paris stamped on it, her gloves are fault- less, but this entire costume is spoiled by & cape-like arrangement of common orient- al lace which naturally looks 50 per cent more ordinary, because everything else is uch good taste. I wouldy rather have one or two yards of really appropriate lace than a dozen of ordinary stuff. I have seen many of the white pique dresses for summer wear, and they are in- deed dainty and_pretty when worn with a white sailor, which should have a wide white band, and white ties and a white sunshade. Long gloves of white chamois are in keeping. We all know that white Plque was worn all last summer East, and this year it is predicted that tailor gowns of white flannel will be the swellest seen, but as for that a zown of white cloth, tailor made, will be the swellest possible seaside costume for some time to come, as such costumes can be afforded by com- Stylish Day Gown.—The skirt is made in the new fawn crepon, fastening over the bodice only! at the back, and having a black satin waistband and a slight indication of a basque shaped to the hips. The bodice is made of a new crepe printed in a Cashmerian design of many charming colorings, in which red, mauve, light green and several other tones combine. It has a lace jabot, and the cut of the sleeve is quite new. The capes that fall over it soften the fullness of the puff, caught up in unexpected places, thus giving addi- tional grace. The front of the bodice 18 spe- cially noticeable with the pointed jacket piece Jalling over the waistband. Pretty gown of fine flannel, relieved with bows of currant-red velvet at the neck, waist and shoulders. A dear little blonde has _one of pale blue, another of lavender, over which she will wear half a dozen white dresses. Tt is not absolutely neces- sary to have the skirt of silk as cambric will do, but the waist lining must be of silk or the efiect is lost. Very yellow Va- lenceinnes lace is the rage; it is to figure on dead white, a chic combination. Lay ina suémply of pretty crush collars and waistbands. " They will be welcome additions this “white ‘summer” to almost every toilet. 1f you are going to a warm place a pair or so of summer corsets are indgupenslble' especially if you are at all stout and inten: to g0 in for bathing they are most useful. much-sought-for fabric this summer is ecru batiste, which, while light and trans- pafent, is made heavier by the cordlike stripes which goxjm lthe patterns. These are In groups of tiny lines in dark blue or red, esrged with white. Other vatter:! have dark blue or scarlet lines alternated with white less than half an inch apart. Others have single lines of red edged on each side with white. The shoes for summer wear are mostly of black and col- ored undressed kid, sometimes with pat- ent leather fixings, but more frequently self-trimmed. The toes are not quite so pointed and the Louis Quinze heel has iven way to the more comfortable, fm;dar and much lower heel, which will give the wearer a far better carria, walks are to be indulged in. B! e if long » Tusset, ‘/ /e ,/ /A W/ 7/:4//;{//1:"/& \l V- Tan cloth costume, with closely braided vest and cuffs, Zouave bodice and folded vel- vet waistbelt. Tan straw hat, with velvet trimmings and argus quill. ay and tan are the usual colors for walk- ing ties. Those of gray |suede kid with toes and heels of patent leather are very handsome. A dark russet-colored Blucher tie looks exceedingly well on the street. As russet harmonizes with most gowns it is a good color for a summer shoe for out-of-door wear. Gray suede is pretty, but too easily soiled. Patent-leather ties { for street wear are always in excellent style and give a dainty finish to a prett; toilet. Much in vogue are black kid, with fixings of patent-leather. White doe- skin, with patent-leather fixings, are shown for country wear with light sum- mer dresses. They are novelties, and, as you can imagine, rather strikinfiv. Siik stockings are considerably reduced in price, so will be very generally worn. They are shown in all colors, and any gown can be readily matched. For $250 per pair may be bad stockings of the finest silk, in black and colors, with vertical stripes of white. While others are em- broidered with tiny white dots, so even our stockings must have the preyailing touch of white. Beautiful silken stockings, with inser- tions of point and Brussels lace set in on the instep and front, readily bring from $15 to $40 per pair, so one can understand eas- ily why the stockings of a recent bride, the daughter of a capitalist, came to only $325 50. I only hope she has a pretty foot, as such lovely hosiery would only call at- tention to a ugly flat foot. Opal tints in satin are in high favor at present. One gown lately worn by an American beauty in Paris at the opera was of this hue, simply trimmed with very beautifully embroidered chiffon, which French Tailor Gown.—The full skirt is trimmed with parallel strips of the same cloth that composes the costume, which is in this case a beautiful shade of fawn. The skirt is very full. Two handsome bronze buttons add much to the effect. The collar is of a rich shade of brown velvet. 19 '@‘%351\12016 %’omen . A A Ao was a changeable oFera color; the only or- naments were the fateful stones. Skirts, unless embroidered, remain untrimmed, with but few exceptions. White moire striped makes a handsome gown. One gown, much commented on, of tnis silk, had the skirt surrounded, at the waist, by tabs of black lace, worked in steel, with an applique of white lace flowers, laid on a flame-colored silk sash uniting the skirt over the bodice, which was of the moire, covered with the black lace. a touch of the flame color appearing in front, and, being a French gown, a description does not do it justice. & Tulle is again to the front. One of the latest ball dresses of pale-green satin hasa triple frill of it, edwed with satin rouleaux as high as the knee on each side and a waterfall at the back. The bodice is tiimmed with the same and a bunch of greenish-white lilac. The bodice ends at the waist and fastens, as so many of the new models do, at the back. A dinner toilet from one of New York’s cleverest designers is very charm- ing—the waist of white satin, covered with white tulle, the sleeves encrmous, opening outside to show the wearer’s beauriful arms from the shoulder. The full pouch front is of the satin. The skirt is of the tulle accordion pleated over the satin. This will be worn by one of our buds dur- ing tlie summer. Another gown deserves mention, bein white Grismonda, veiled with pink tulle, the skirt wrimmed with large rosettes of tulle at the sides. The bodice is covered with tulle, worked in pearls; the sleeves are like a ballet-girl’s skirt, frill upon frill. Duchess de Brabant roses are to be worn to complete this fetching costume. 1am very weary of writing about crepons. The New Princess Robe.—Havana veiling, bound and trimmed with applique in Emi- nence velvet, studded and outlined with jet spangles. picturesque gown. Ecru gloves and black patent-leather ties and black silk stockings should be worn. It isa mistake to purchase bright-colored gloves, which are nightmares to people of taste. I have just read a description of a gown which is so excellent that I shall quote: “‘It is of gray waved silk crepon, with skirt of {;enerous amplitude and simplicity as weli as perfect hanging. Corsage of a bro- cade where green, mulberry-red and white were woven into odd quaintness and beauty. The back was a smooth fit and the fronts had little fullness., A broad, white satin ribbon design, worked in " P N\ Tea gown of pale heliotrope ondine silk, trimmed with deep cream guipure, and rosettes and streamers of satin ribbon to match. However, they continue such favorites and are indeed so appropriate for sun.mer wear that one cannot wonder. East, black and cedar colors are said to be the favorites, but navy-blue takesa front rank, asmade up with shot silk it is effective. Sets of collar and cuffs, made in fine white muslin edged with a narrow row of white lace, are called the “Puritan.” A very useful dress is made of black and green taffeta—skirt and sleeves of the black, bodice of pale green stripped with bands of jet. A girdle and “tab’” also of jet com- vlete it. A simple gown for a young girl is of cardinal crepon. Well fitted bodice, with pouch front of muslin trimmed with very yellow Valenciennes lace, roll-collarjof the same combination, full godeted skirt, large white straw hat trimmed with mossgreen watered ribbon and two large bunches of either cherries or currants complete a very Toilet of mousseline de soic. Pale mauve in color. Accordion-pleated over glace silk. Very fine lace appears on the bottom of the skirt and the graceful sleeves have two lines of in- sertion. A long sash of green ribbon has long ends and two rosettes in front. Second costume s of black faille. The skirt perfectly plaiw. The sleeves are large and balloon-like. The waist has trimmings of wide white lace snsertion and a very handsome Jringe of black cut jet. * white pearls and lizard-green spangles, or- namented the center from collar-band to | waist, where it was finished by a tied bow | and short embroidered ends. The skirt | girdle was of black satin with bow at back. The sleeves were the great feature and gave a cachet view to the gown quite original. They were cut in _part circular, extremel flowing, fullness drawn up tight on shoul- ders, so that they hung like a muntle to the elbow. A stole of the same brocade, falling to the knees, was fitted to the neck and shoulders and trimmed with a broad black lace ruching edged with yellow lace beading. The ends of the stole had a plaited fall of lace, with same beading finish. Yellow primroses in bunches were on either side of the ruche, fastening in, front. , In Paris the hair is worn very fluffy, much curled and puffed, while the New York tendency is to have the hair glossy, the result of much bmshinf, and coiled smoothly, while the front only is most be- comingly curled or waved, when the severel{ sim‘)le style is too trying, but the | old style of leaving a small roll of hair in front "is coming back again. The New York girl is a very healthy looking young woman, with her bright, natural eolor and her face free from all traces of cosmetics, but_her skin does mnot rival that of her California sister in beauty. MARCELLA. e FOLLY AND BEAUTY. i Reason and Folly and Beauty, they say, ‘Went on a party of pleasure one day. Folly played Around the maid, The bells of his cap rung merrily out, - While Reason took To his sermon-Look— O, which was the pleasanter no one neea doubt, Which was the pleasanter no one need doubt. 1L Beauty, who likes to be thought very sage, Turned for a moment to Reason’s dull page; Till Folly said, “Look here, sweet maid.” ‘The sight 0f his cap brought her back to herselt, While Reason read His leaves of lead. With no one to mind him, poor, sensible eit1 No; no one to mind him, poor, sensible elf! UL 1 ‘When Reason grew jealous of Folly’s gay cap— Had he that on he her heart might entrap— “There it is,” Quoth Folly, “0ld Quiz.” (Folly was always good-natured, 'tis sald.) “Under the sun There's no such fun As Reason with my cap and bells on his head; Reason with my cap and bells on his head.” Iv. But Reason the headdress so awkwardly wore That Beauty now liked him still less than before, While Folly took 0ld Reason’s book And twisted the leaves in a cap of such ton That Beauty vowed (Though not aloud) She lfked him still better in that than his own. Yes; liked him still better in that than his own. B SR ‘Will A.D. 1900 Be a Leap Year? Asthis question is already buzzing about it may satisfy a very reasonable curiosity if a few particulars are given. That 1896 will be a leap year is an admitted fact, but that 1900 will not be a leap year was set- tled long ago. By an act passed in 1751 it was settled that the calendar should be reformed in a number of particulars. From January 1, 1752, the civil year was fixed to commence on that date, and not on March 25, as many had it. In the same year—1752—eleven days were to fall REASON, l out, from the 3d to the 13th, inclusive, so that what would have been the 14th was made the 3d, after which the reckoning gmceeded as if nothing had happened. hence it followed that what would have been December 25 became January 5, and was called old Christmas day. The new style so introduced went on regu- larly after that, but in 1800 no leap vear was recorded, and in 1801 old Christmas day fell on January 6, as it does mnow. There will be another like change at the fin de siecle, or end of the century, for 1900 is not to be a leap year, and 1901 is to be ‘‘the fifth after bisscxtile, orleap year, and the first year of the twentieth century.” Anyhow, this was the form adopted in *“Rider’s British Merlin” for 1801. The first leap year of this century was in 1804, and is so described in the almanacks of the time. Moore’s Almanack for 1500 calls the year the fourth after bissextile or lqag year, anil gives to February twenty- eight days only. In like manner 1802’is alled the sixth and 1803 the seventh after leap year. Odd as this may seem, we are golnfi to do the same thing after next year, so that for seven years there will be no February 29 for any anniversaries. It will be rather hard on” some people who have been born or married on that eccentric date. The original edition of tie act of Parliament which settled these things looked forward a long way. Itnow lies before us, and it says that the years 1800, 1900, 2100, 2200, 2300, or any other hun- dredth years of our Lord in time to come (except every fourth hundredth year be- ginning with A. D. 2000), shall consist of 365 days only. The world is kindly re- minded that the years 2000, 2400, 2800, etc., will be leap years; but we say nothing about them, because they will not affect us, however it may happen with posterity. —Queen. LoR Al g ait PLAYING AT PASSION. Fling down thie cards! T can play no more; The game we began in fun In the summer, is lost and won; And we have but to count the score. *Twas a noble game, for we knew each rule Of whisper and glance and sigh, No novices, you and I, Trained students in Love's sweet school. What are my spoils? A scrap of vour robe, A programme, a shattered fan, A glove of a dainty tan; -And—a wound that I dare not probe. Now for your score. What, you will not tell? Perchance that, your spoils amid, A golden heart lies hid. Only sham? Have you scanned it well? ‘Yours is the game: naught remains to say; Yet, now it is time to part, I am tempted to ask, sweetheart, Are you sure it was ouly play? MES. GEBALD RICARDO. B SR Mr. Gladstone on Women, A week or two ago Mr. Gladstone, in a very short speech, delivered an important forecast about women. He remarked that wozuen showed such a power of making speeches, so much readiness, so much eloquence, that if they went on as they had begun they would soon get the better of men. And he threw out a sly hint that he, for one, should not be sorry if they did. How exultant the women speakers of the day must feel. For Mr. Gladstone is probably the greatest authority on oratory now living, as well as one of the greatest orators. Many men, perhaps the majority of men, object to women speaking._in pub- lic. Tney seem to have a vague idea that it unsexes them to appearupon a platform, that it is degrading for them to proclaim their opinions, and that in a discreet and everlasting silence lies their salvation. This view of the case has been rudely shaken by the ex-Premier. In my opinion if a woman can speak there is no harm in her doing so, provided that she selects her subjects carefully. It does not unsex anybody to appear upon a platiorm. We cannot keep our women wrar ed up in cotton wool, nor is it de- sira )Fu that we should do so. And women speakers can do an enormous amount of good. Considering that women have had so far comparatively little chance of exer- cising their oratorical powers, it must be admitted that they have done well and fully justified Mr. Gladstone’s encomiums. ‘Will they go farther and fullfil his proph- ecficoncemin them? oubtless they will. Nothing helps us so much in the proper development of the powers within us asa word of encourage- ment spoken with authority. It gives us courage, self-respect, self-confidence, and, although self-confidence may become a fauut if it runs forward into self-conceit, in moderation it makes for virtue and for great deeds.—Gentlewoman. R THE RETROGADE MOVEMENT. At 17 1 loved Ireue, Though she, I knew, was 32; At 28] I courted Kat Who was not more At 42 e, than 24; 1 sighed for Sue, ‘Who could not boast 18 at most; At 63 It is Marie, Just sweet 16, who is my queen! PRISCILLA LEONARD in Vogue, The mother of the famous Constable Bourbon learned to fence in order to assist in the military training of her son. The Sweet Odor of Almonds Clean, pure and pungent, pleases the nos- trils as the cork comes from a jar of Mme. Yale’s celebrated Almond Blossom Com- plexion Cream. Foryears and ages women have sought a safe and certain preservative of the complexion. The sun in summer and the heat of stoves and steam in winter make Nature’s work too hard for her. The dust that is always in the air grinds itself into the sensitive skin. Soap and water are not enough to get it out and to soothe and soften the dry, chapped skin. Yale’s Complexion Cream Willdo it. It cleanses the skin and its pores, softens the foreign matter within and without, soothes all irritation, cools the heat of chapping and fever blisters and gives a satin surface to the suffering skin. It is good for burns and for any abrasion. A single application is effective. Put iton at night and rub it briskly into the skin and you will be pleasantly astonished in the morning. There have been imitatious of this wonderful beautifier. Look ont for them. Accept nothing but the real. Prioe, o1 6 STk B2 SRR Yot e Complexion Specialist, 146 State st., Chicago. Bomhy Galas postied fheo: (e NEW TO-DAY. (ITYPARIS CALICO DEPARTMENT. The Largest Assorfi;nt of the Newest WASH FABRICS SUCH AS CREPONS (shirred effects), at. DUCK SUITINGS dark), at .. 123°, 16° Yard 16°, 20° Yard FRENCH SATINES (varied assort- 920°. 95¢ - 0%y ment), at. Yard FRENCH BATISTES (elegant), at... C C : 30°, 3 Yard SCOTCH ZEPHYRS (stripes {RC C C and pladds), ate......or 10y 20% 20 Yard A big lot of GINGHAMS to be closed out at 10 CENTS A YARD. REMNANTS BELOW COST. SUMMER SKIRTS, RANGING FROY : 75¢ Upward SHIRT WAISTS. LATEST NOVELT! from...... 75¢ " Upward FULL ASSORTMENT OF TENNIS BELTS. B.VERDIER & (0, S. E. Cor. Geary St and Grant Ave,, S. B, VILL“PARIS BRANCH IOUSE, 1223 SOUTH BROADWAY, FURNITURE 4 ROOT1S $90. Parlor—Silk Brocatelle, trimmed. 5-plece sult, plush French Bevel- two chairs. vire and top ak S waskh Dining-Room—é-foot Extension Solid Oak Chairs. Kitchen—No. 7 Range, Patent Kitchen Table and two chairs. EASY PAYMENTS. Houses furnished complete, city or country, any- where on the coast. Open evenings. M. FRIEDMAN & CO., 224 to 230 and 306 Stockton and 237 Post Street. Free packing and delivery across the bay. Table, four WHALEBONE. PACIFIC STEAM WHALING COMPANY'S Genuine Shell Whalebone “Orea Brand.” All Sizes. Every Package Guaranteed. One trial will convince you of its merits and superiority over all other brands in the market. LADIES See that vour dressmakers do not use inferior grades or substi utes. NONEEQUAL T0 OUR “ORCA BRAND.” Never breaks, most elastic, lasts longest, cheap est and best. For sale b,i all the leading dry-goods houses Office and Factory, 30 California Street, SAN FRANCISCO LI PO TAI JR.’S Herb Sanitarium, No. 727 Washington St., Cor. Brenham Place, above the plaza, San Francisco, Cal. Office hours 11 A. M. to 9 P. 1443 Linden Street, Onkiand. Dear Sir: It is now about four months since T was recommended by friends to_attend your sani- tarium. [ had for a long time been afflicted with epilepsy and was under the care of skilled doctors, but obtained no permanent relief un:il after I b consulted you. The herb teas procured at your sanitarium had the magical effect of bringing about a complete cure. I shall xe"dom\“" Stly !eco'm‘l'lnelld you to all who are afflicied. Yours respectfully, ¥ o - JEANIk(.) FONGE. ‘Druggists. NEW WESTERN HOTEL. EARNY AND WApHINGTON STS.—RE- modeled and renovated. KING, WARD & CO, Yuropean plan. Rooms 50c to $1 50 per day, 33 o $8 per week, $8 to 330 per month; free baths; ot and cold water every room; fire grates in every room; elevator ruus all night.