The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 21, 1895, Page 19

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, APRIL 21, 1895. 19 reely possible that some of onable women in Paris are It seem v bloomers composed yof ¢ . but of velvetand even The jackets end at the waist line d have rather pretty basque-like t most inappropriately elaborate i waistcoats appear beneath them. irts are not even thought of arisenne in connection with 3he seemed naturally to take d the only skirts seen after 1 reached to the knee. The athered or pleated full into 1d at the knee, showing silk to the top of the boot, and in to bree the cr Fr iters are ignored altogether. Not or 2 thin graceful women seen in these rem ble costumes, but large matronly women seem perfectly content with their appearance when so arrayed. , on the other hand, to give bloomers even a ¢ sideration, and Lady Margesson has invented and new skirt which is said to give the de g it the at skirt with sufficiently » danger of There is up in the the knee. daily on their bicycles | hing to the top | | broidered in pearls over rose-colored pink silk. Fage ~\Women- Young matron’s ball gown of elegant white brocaded silk. Front of Brussels net em- Design from Paris. ar and waist nd of Riviera worked linen lace studded bodize, the edgi all being The Godet 11 hung, while the s of violets and no fastenings, but The great noveity s being omitted, capes at the armholes in I mentioned the t as thisis a bet- ge wear especially, I it his approval. It be much worn. ittle cape can be made of box th of light weight, with pleats in the center of the back and on each shoulder. Dress for young girl of dark blue crepon. The pouch-like waist is of white cloth. The bows and collar of blue satin exactly matching the shade of the dre Finish it around the neck with a very wide full ruche of soft silk accordion- pleated. The ruche, of course, must in- crease or decrease width according to the length of the wearer's neck. A beau- tiful cape just f Paris was recently shown to me. Itis of the shade known as “‘pain brulle” or burnt bread, and is ex- uisitely embroidered in cut jetand gold. he lining is of a golder shade, while some chiffon of a lovely tone of brown forms the ruche for the ow s pretty throat. Redfern has c ned a swell spring coat. It is of a light-weight cloth \\'iLL strapped seams and ve ed collar and revers, to be worn over a double-breasted white _Su?‘de waistcoat and white muslin chem- isette, Iwas correct in predicting that turned- i | down collars and cuffs ana shirts of muslin and lace would be much worn, for again I | read of a new yachting coat of dark blue | cloth, outlined with a single line of gold | braid and a velvet collar, and thisis to be worn over a cream front draped with pale shirt of valenciennes Other styles are Then there is a new ’ ills | yeliow. lace. of batiste with soft | and an enormous | shown in shirts w | that | ch illustrate plainly | the wearer cares to be up to date. in holland bound with white and having soft fronts are excellent for country wear, as are also others in plain white cambric with stiff fronts and colored_piping. ’lus—hiun for frilled fronts will not be suit- able on many occa and these | plainer and more business-like shirt are shown, and the frills, if _they |do appear, are very small and set closer together. A very pretty girl showed me a most tasteful gown just received from one of our best modistes. Itisastudy in | White striped silk showered with willow The_bo i i e, over which falls a 1ge of tiny pussies, headed by a unique and ery Also charmi tal trimming. is a gown designed by a Tailor-made dress in fawn covert coating; short round skirt edged with white satin. Bodice formed of wide, loose pleats, edged with the satin, and buttoned at the side with large pearl buttons. Collar and cuffs of white satin with operavork veining. Hat of biscuit- colored chip, erown white chip, with large bows and band of black velvet. | French_artist for one of her patronesses here. She calls it “a Recamier toilette.” The dress is made very short-waisted, of white glace silk of a most superior quality. Over this is a slip of the renFBrllssels net, covered with tiny nail beads in silver. The dress is decollete and to be worn off the shoulders, which'of course means that | the wearer has a lovely neck, otherwise | madame would never have made it so. The neck is finished with a ruche of very natural daisies, which again appear around the bottom of the skirt, which is made slightly en train. This gown may seem to be simple and inexpensive, but if you want to have an idea of the cost ask madame the price of real Brussels net spangled, as this one is, by the yard. One of the latest things in cloth_cos- tumes which I have seen from New York is of a brown shade with a very full skirt, which does not touch the ground but yet sets remarkably well. It has a short basqued coat setting into a frill around the hips and the revers turned back to show an elaborate front of glace silk and lace. A belt is worn around the waist. The blouse seems to be daily growing in favor. One, a most lovelry one, is of a pale- gray brocade, with the sfeeves put in box- pleats, from the neck buttoned down with rose-pink velvet buttons; the front setina leat, showing on either side an under- Eodice, which appeared to be made of mus- lin and stripes of Valenciennes embroid- ery. A rose-pink velvet collor-band com- pletes this garment. A pretty little blouse can be evolved out of a few yards of pale-blue silk and a stripe of vellow guipure, with a scrap of black satin for the coilar. A bodice. which is just the thing for evening wear at home, figures in a recent trousseau, and is made of currant-red and white crinkled silk, quaintly trimmed with an applique of muslin on black velvet. White alpaca is going to be very stylish, and I have just read of & gown which has those left over from last summer can- not be made to pass muster this season if Shirts | The | | green and white, the petticoat being of | I a wonderfully wide > white chiffon. luncheons, garden parties, afternoon teas, ill meet wi approval here. Girls who | all out of shape, or with crooked heels, perhaps worst of all are soiled gloves. I | was glad to see an article on this subject in the Argonaut last week, for positiveiy a great deal needs to be said about them, so, if possible, to impress women with the fact that not only women, but men also, pass commments on gloves when they reach the stage just'beyond being soiled. More frequently than I like to remember have seen beautifully gowned women with positively dirty g'oves, which did not in the least appear to annoy them. Again, women wils wear freshly cleaned gloves, understand, as_it must be exceedingly dis- agreeazble to the wearer, for in our minds we think of women as being sweet and them, and certainly the odor of lucine will never conjure up delightful remembrances. Hooks and eyes are now made to match the dress materials. Goffered satins with wide stripes, in such mixtures as black and white and black and vellow, green or petunia, will be popular. Goffered satin is also treated like crepon and pointed with sparse grass patterns, while some of the silk crepes have gold spots and others are printed in Oriental and Dolly Varden designs. They find their way onto crepon and striped pongee, interspersed with goff- ered stripes in white and mauve or blue and black. Printed grenadines on black rounds are one oi the most appropriate esigns yet shown this season for middle- aged matrons, and a new_black striped grenadine is_interwoven with colored silk at the back, which shows through a watered grenadine, treated in the same way. MARCELLA. THE WORLD'S GREAT MILLINER. Charles Frederick Worth, the first couturier of this age, and whose death in Paris has been the subject of much remark the world over, was buried recently in the family vault in the village of Suresnes-sur- Seine. On the Wedresday previous a ser- vice for the dead was held in the French Protestant Church in the Avenue.de la A Ball Dress for a Young Girl.—Dress of pale yellow and pink satin, the shades of a Gloire de Dijon rose, the skirt to be of black satin and the bodice of pink overlaid with cream guipure lace, arranged blouse fashion with a boz pleat down the front. This idea is new, and very pretty. To relieve the paleness of coloring a folded sash of deep violet satin s introduced, passing round the waist under the pleat, and. finishing in a pretty bow at the left side. Strings of violets are used as braces over the shoulders and as a skirt trimming, and the short girlish sleeves of yellow lined with pink are made each in two pieces, like butterfly wings, caught in with bunches of violets, a frill of guipure falling beneath. The skirt, set into organ pleats at the back, is Jinished off round the hem with a band of- pink covered with lace, a couple of bows of violet satin brightening the effect. Grande Armee, Paris. Mr. Worth came to Paris as a young man of 20, the son of a Lileolnshire solicitor, looking out for some- thing to do in the costume way, he having been with Swan & Edgar in London for seven years, and with the sincere deter- mination to carve out for himself an inde- ndent fortune. It is not true, as Le emEs rather cruelly suggests, that the youth was of so artistic a temperament that he found England out of harmony with his tastes and feelings, and naturally ravitated to the one city of light and auty. Young Worth simply emigrated, took the first situation in Paris thatlooked promising (it was with Gagelins), and threw into his occupation ail that Anglo- Saxon energy which in those days of lesser competition with his own countrymen wouf’: assure him ultimate success. To be candid, he did indeed leave England ata despmte]{; inartistic period. It was the daysof high stocks for men, oke-bonnets for women and crooked-leg ?umiture with horsehair. Nothing could be more dreadful. But young Mr. Worth heeded these things not. He came to the city where many of his countrymen have since made their fortune at just the right epoch. "Miss Flora McFlimsey of Madison square” and all her friends, who found in Broadway nothing good enough to wear, were coming over to Europe to learn how to dress and going to Paris for the latest fashions. Mr. Worth saw all this and knew where his fortune lay. Soon after he had learned his business” he suggested certain enteri)nsmg‘ movements in ad- vance to the house in which he was em- Bloved. They hesitated and eventually eclined to accept his suggestions, where- upon Mr. Worth left their employ and started a business for himself in the very same premises in the Rue de la Paix in which the business is conducted to-day. His life is a contradiction to the aXiom that “small beginnings are the way to get on.” Mr. Worth founded a business that from its_birth was able to compete with, if not outshine, all his competitors. At the time of his death the house was sending irt of this material and a bodice of plaid silk, and a large hol- land colored muslin collar pointed over the shoulders, forming a sort of draped re- o0 the waist and showing a front of This is a most satisfactory costume, for it is just what is wanted for and as alpaca sheds the dust perfectly b but little to spend on dress first purchase proper shoes, gloves and veils, for the prettiest gowns lose all their effectiveness if worn with old shoes and a ragged veil is an abomination, but smelling strongly of lucine. This I do not fresh, with just a breath of violets about out 10,000 costumes a year, and with every prospect of more. is sons, MM. Jean and Gaston, have now the entire control of the concern, though until very recently Mr. Worth superintended all the details of purchase. ¢ In private life Mr. Worth was almost a recluse. He married early a French lady settled down in a small villa at Suresne adjoining the railway station, and used the dally train to go to his business. This villa soon became too small. He added to it ground and thereon built addition then more ground and more building: He had rencied from the main road to a public footpath and progress was arrested. have cast off all past relation to the old order. A discussion of so comprehensive a subject as manners, even in brief form, is not attempted in this short paper; this is merely a backward glance at strong con- trasts existing between the old days and the new. iot New York, in the late thirties, was a very small city. The rich and well-to-do citizens formed a class by themselves; then came small tradespeople, and after them manual laborers. ~Families of birth and distinction were known all about town by sight and by name. The line between them and their humble neighbors was very kindly but firmly drawn. Each class re- spected the other. The new rich element was then unknown, and such large for- tunes as we are now familiar with were simply impossible—had no existence. The merchants of that period were men of birth, social standing, family intluence. They controlled all the commerce at home and abroad, built the finest and fleetest ships, and their money and energy gave start to our canals, our railroads, and de- veloped our country in every direction. | The men of entire leisure were remarkably few. Bankers, lawyers, physicians, cler- gymen were the sons or fathers of mer- chants, the representative men of the day. ‘While the houses of wealthy New York- ers were kept up with becoming dignity, and oftentimes with elegance, there was no such ‘luxury dreamed of as has be- come quite general in these days. Draw- ing-rooms were severe and simple, and re- sembled each other like peasin a pod, in their mirrors, their mahogany and rose- wood carvings, their gaudy and large-flow- ered carpetings, crystal chandeliers,sconces, candelabras, girandoles. The distinguishing feature of one house from another might center in its rare old china, brought from France, England, Holland or China; its beautiful ol«%shereton or Chippendale fur- niture, brought over in the owner’s ships most frequently. Wax candles and French mechanical lamps burning rape-seed-oil, furnished soft, mellow lights for home evenings, dance or ball, and window illu- minations. Copies of old masters some- times adorned the walls where a family had been abroad, but that was infrequent. French maids and valets were, like the pictures, scarce and of rare importation. Men had instead their colored body-ser- vants, women their colored maids and children their turbaned nurses. As Miss Martineau wrote in her book, published after her visit to America, good manners were general, “the best 1 ever Criticizing evidences of ostenta- tion in some families, she adds, with wise discrimination: “The best sort of rich be- come the independent, thoroughbred | classes of the community who put their | time and money to good use.” In deport- REDFERN'S LATEST DESIGN. This charming dress is made in a biscuit-colored face cloth, ornamented with strapped seams. The skirt is full and, besides the seams, has a strapped hem. The coat is eut with fewer seams than usual and hangs well, the collar and lapels being faced with velvet. The double-bretsted waistcoat is made of white cloth and the vest is here represented in bengaline, as also the turn-over collar and tie. Hat of brown straw with white velvet crown. A bunch of Parma violets on each side and a brown emu aigrette on the left. Not for long. Over the footpath he threw an arch, on the arch continued his build- ing, bought enough land c¢n the "other side the path for all his stables, greenhouses and vegetable gardens and another villa and grounds for one of his sons. So that to-day this conglomerate mass of buildings in a dozen styles of architecture forms the immense Chateau Worth, embracing sev- eral acres of exquisite grounds. The interiors of the buildingsare like the exterior, full of surprises. Staircases greet you everywhere, as the houses are grouped all on the side of a steep hil, and the levels have to be met by stairways. The ceilings are low or high, just asit happens, but all adding to its picturesqueness. The walls are covered with ceramic decorations: &latea and _pieces of ware of Nantes, of evers, of Rouen, of Nideryiller, Strass- bourg, Blois, Moustiers, Limoges, Mar- seilles, Sceaux, Tours, and especially old Quimper grouped there by the hundred. A most interesting place, but little known to the outside world. Some years ago I asked M:. Worth to allow me to ghowgrngh his grounds and fiwen ublished description of his home. e replied most modestly and firmly: “I am a business man and shall always re- main one. Were kto accede to your wish T might pose as something else, and this I have no wish to do.” Charitable in a large way locally, for at Suresnes he was to the poor most bounti- ful and to a few other charities, he never identified himself with the English colony of Paris, was rarely seen in public, except at the village celebrations of Suresnes, where he was greatly beloved, and on which occasions his purse was alway open. i Among commercial men of the nine- teenth century few, if any, have known so steady a rise to prosperity entirely through their own industry, perseverance and in- telligence as the late Charles Frederick ‘Worth.—Queen. OLD MANNERS AND (QUSTOMS. The change in New York manners has been so swift and radical from the quiet dignity and formality habitunal to the late thirties, forties and early fifties, that pres- ent-day customs and usages, together with our advanced social point of view, seem to ment, a8 in house furnishing, there was much similarity. There was a rule for this, a rule for that, and the dictum of a grande dame, who was not then the rara avis she has become in this generation, was supreme. The words lady and gentle- man had their dignified meaning, and still belonged to the language of polite societg" ,and in the same way did the terms wife and husband, with all their sacramental meaning. High ideals were taught and lived up to, and obligations and personal honor were a man's first consideration, his fortune and his life secondary. The dueling code had not been abol- ished. Men Eeld each other responsible for all infractions of conduct unbecoming a gentleman, and wives and daughters regulated their conduct and speech accord- ingly, abstaining from the wanton slaugh- ter of reputations now considered a draw- ing-room amusement pour passer le temps, knowing the lives of those they held most dear must atone. 5 Americans were then very American. This model is of extreme elegance for a middle-aged woman. It is composed of black silk velvet and white satin and cut in the princess style. The large buttons are of the Jinest cut steel. The neck s adorned with ruffles of white muslin, The simplicity of republicanism was looked upon as the best possible form, and with- out it one was not well thought of. For- eign ways and manuers when aped by the citizen were ridiculed, laughed at, consid- ered in very bad taste, and if the intrusion was too great, flatly put down. The brave old colonial temper had not died out. Grandfathers and great-grandfathers were | yet living who had spent their fortunes | and their strength in the great fight for liberty. The sonsand daughters of these men were proud of their republic and grateful for the blessings of country pur- chased so dearly. The smart quarter of town began about | the Battery and Bowling Green, Broad- | cling by ladies is evidenced by the appear- ance of the first number of The Lady Cy- clist, a monthly magazine devoted solely to the cause indicated by its title. The ublication sirikes me as being fully in Eeeping with its subject, the tone being unimpeachable and the matter varied an apposite. Naturally, ‘“What We Shall Vyenr" received much attention in its ages. Some remarks on “How to Avoid 'atigue’” are worth reading, for itis by ex- cess that cycling gets a bad name. For the Export Trade. “Miss Solidcash is to marry Sir. Geoflrey Foxe-Hunt. They will reside in London,” “Ah! More gold engaged for export.” Dress of mauve bengaline and straw-colored | satin ; trimming of artistic guipure at the | shoulders and draped epaulets of orange vel- vet. Skirt of bengaline adorned with fluted Jolds, which are gathered at about half a yard From the waist, under chouz of bengaline ; the skirt is hemmed with artistic guipure. Bodice of the same lace, composed of a back, sides of front and front with darts, the fasten- ing being under the left arm. Draped bre- telles of bengaline, being a continvation of the skirt folds. Immense balloon sleeves of straw- colored satin. ’ Empire dress of white embroidered silk muslin over white satin ; blouse-bodice, with a deep basque of white lace; long sash of satin ribbon in the shade called glaieul, con- Jining the waist and tied at the side, the ends Jalling nearly to the lower edge of the skirt ; skirt mounted in gathers over a sheath skirt of white satin and bodice gathered top and bottom, composed of the back and front in one pice Sastening being under thé left arm. is cut on a close-fitting pattern, with short, round we he top is frilled with lace. Sewed-on basque of lace. Balloon slecves op embroidered musi way, Greenwich street and Wall street. Then came the uptown movement to Chambers, Murray and Warren streets, with the ultra smart set on Bleeker street; Fourteenth street and Union square fol- lowed, but that was regarded as wildly hazardous. Business men left their homes for their counting-rooms at a morning hour that would be looked upon now as heathenish, absurd. The man of fashion, the “dandy,” turned out as he does to-day at noon, faultlessly dressed, his long hair scented and pomaded in _glossiness, smoothly curled under in a-roll lying on his coat collar. Gloved, hatted and caned, he would stroll along; the observed of all observers, to the Irving House, or later to | the New York Hetel, there to meet his friends, sit perhaps in the window, watch- ing the ladies passing by, for women walked then much more than they do now, the shops being all within easy reach of their residences. At precisely half-past 2 the ‘“dandies” would wend their way homeward, as fashionable New York dined at 3 o’clock punctually, and a sense of devoir caused them to be_ present at that meal—as they never sat with their families at any other. The ladies spent the afternoon in driv- ing, visiting orreceiving visits. The pond- erous family coach, elaborately trimmed up with cloth, gimp and fringes, would “Pse“ at 4 o’clock. When days were long and pleasant the drives would extend to Bloomingdale or across to Astoria. Other- wise to the rural sections of Twenty-third street or Murray Hill, where New York’s reatest beauty, Mrs. Coventry Waddell, ad her Gothic cottage, and where every- body who was anybody, delighted to go. While the driving was going on the muffin and trumpet man and Shaddle’s cake car- rier were making their rounds, supplying delicacies for the high tea. At 8 o’clock in the evening the silver-ladened mahogany had its pretty gatherings in siliks, satins and laces; jeweled rings on fingers and ears, long and short curls, very large bus- tles and very small waists. Over the teacups ran pleasant chatter, the latest on dits, the bantering speech of man and maid, with raptures over Jenny Lind, transports over the peerless dancer, Fanny Elsler. What do you think of Parodi? of Salvi? From opera talk to merriment and laughter over the actor, Burton; the chic Mary Taylor and her singing; on to dinners, balls, and slyly some very mild scandal, indeed. But even so—quickly brought to their paces were these youngsters by the matriarch’s watchful eye and sharp ear. The evening assed with music, the harp and piano. gliiitary marches were the favorites on the latter. ~Poor and mediocre they were, and airs sung on the former from the “‘Bo- hemian Girl,” then the craze. At 11 o’clock the house was wrapped in pro- found silence and darkness. Out on the street, oil lamps far apart, casting weird shadows on the marble house, where slept | these fair daughters. £ | 1f ever the silence of the night was broken it was by the blood-curdling cry of “Fire! fire! fire!” The household commotion was fearful and so was the sound of the | awful bell that rang out the direction of | the calamity. Gentlemen firemen rushed from their warm beds, tore into their fire- clothesand caps and ran like mad to meet their engine to run her full speed to the fire. This had, in its way, all the pleasure and excitement of sport; it was the polo and football of the day, rolied up into one tremendous exertion that men needed so sorely.—From Vogue. Every woman has her photograph taken, but the result proves that a lamentable number know nothing about the best way to make the most of themselves. “The greater number of sitters are utterly ignor- ant as to how materials, colors and styles of costume will appear in the finished por- trait, and the operator is blamed for what is, as a rule, not his fault, * * * Asa rule it is well—and snould be uired—to avoid very positive patterns, such as large plaids, checks, wide stripes and much jet or other glittering trimming and much jewelry. Sharp contrasts in materials, trimming or style of cut are a decided detriment to a pleasing portrait, and, as a rule, the tone of color should harmonize with the sitter’s complexion and hair. Glistening silks are difficult_to light well, as is any material which does not easily lend itself to soft folds. Dead luster silks, soft woolens, crapes, fleecy tissues and similar materials are always effective. These " hints are worth remembering. Moreover, one is advised to soften, by ren- dering it indefinite, the line between skin and dress both at neck and wrists, for it is wise to remember that, however well a cos- tume may sometimes look in reality, it does not always photograph well, and may call attention to what might otherwise never be noticed. - The advance that has been made in ey- Almond Blossom Complexion Cream ‘What is more beautiful than the soft, dimpled, rose-leaf cheeks of a precious little baby ? Every woman will gladly admit—noth- ing. What would you give to have just such a complexion ? I can distinctly hear the echo of every woman’s answer—every- thing I possess. Now, my dear friend, let me tell you a little secret that is not generally known. Mme. Yale’s Complex- ion Cream will give you just such a complexion as babies have. Clear pink and white, fine-grained and beautiful—just such complexions as inspire the divine feeling of love and make sweethearts and husbands yearn for the tempting kiss. Mme. Yale attributes the beauty of her complexion to the constant use of this delicious cream. Her fame has been heralded from ocean to ocean by all the lead- ing newspapers of the world, who publicly declare her to be the most beautiful woman on earth. Yale’s Almond Blossom Cream 18 PURE. It is cleansing, heal- ing and refreshing. Try a jar and be convinced and beautified at the same time. Price $1. For sale by druggists and deal- ers everywhere, or MME. M. YALE, Temple of Beauty, 146 State st., Chieago. 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