The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 14, 1895, Page 16

16 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, APRIL 14, 1895. g . i LATEST STYLE TRAIN GOWN AND A CIRCULAR CAPE WITE WITH DRAPERIES FROM THE SHOULDER H YOKE AND MEDICI COLLAR. Many have been the lovely gowns de- signed and completed during the past six Lenten seagon promises own and is hed has t-fitting bodice most gracefu rity of the corsage being relieved ant of tulle studded with silver set in at the decolletage with a owasa | d at the back with e bow of white satin. One shoulder- of white satin fastened h a the other is of violets e, and sleeves are substituted by arm- of white satin knotted in bows, reveal- the beaut curves of the shoulder. A charming gown from Paris showssa skirt of a purplish pink silk mull over glace pink silk foundation. Around the | bottom is a1 edging, like a ruche, of pink chrysanthemu: perfect beauties. The | Stylish skirt of sea-green honeycomb silk crepon. Bodice of black accordion chiffon over green silk. Bishop sleeves, with black satin wristbands and waisthand. The passe- menterie on the bodice is most beautifal em- broidery in many shades of gold, copper and Jet, with sea-green velvet. tight-fitting silk bodice has the mulle put over it rather full. Around the neck and waist are deep bands of lovely smoked- ear] embroidery. The sleeves are very arge with little stiffening, but a great quantity of material is consumed in their composition. A single huge, ragged- looking chrysanthemum is gracefully fastened at the left side of the corsage. Princess robes are on the increase, and one much admired lately was worn in London by Mrs. Patrick Campbell in “The Notorious Mr:. Ebbsmith.” It is of the finest Brussels net, with massesof natural- size roses exquisitely embroidered in gold, worked thread by thread by hand, ends and leaves arranged as garlands, a distinct design embroidering the whole, and yet rendered with that irregularity which pro- claims the artist's hand in contradiction to the machine. It is verylong and cling- ing, and near the foot the embroidery draws closer and closer together until a border is formed of almost solid gold work. The foundation is black satin, but between this and the embroidered netis an inter-robe of gold tinsel, which shimmers hither and thither as the wearer moves, getting a lightness of effect which would otherwise have been marred by the unrelieved gloom of the satin. The bodice is low and there areno sleeves, save for a massof gold chains surfing from the shoulder, which are drawn into the arm by a band of the gold embroidery. But enough of evening gowns. Thereis a dress of Sicilian black alpaca of which I want your opinion. The skirt is plain, as most skirts now are; very full around the bottom and gored off into a close-fitted nothingness over the hips. There is a coat bodice, somewhat full in the basque at the back, opening in the front with wide lapels that are outlined with rich white soft satin, these being entirely cov- ered with fine black net, embroidered with fyellowish lace sprigs, edged by a frill of black net, bordered with the nar- rowest of yellow lace ed; infi. The vest re- vealed to us by these vifie apels is of soft white chiffon’ with the inevitable pouch front, falling slightly over the wide satin band, which is repeated around theneck, finished wita two choux bows on either side of a tiny black broooh. Every seam in skirt and coat are strapped. There are some novel little points to be noticed about the latest tailor-made gowns, for instance, in the wide, double reveres, the corners of the lower one being pointed, of the upper rounded, while above is a smart little turn-over collar of velvet. coat is now fastened with a single large button, and has side pockets. e sleeves turn up at the wrists with daintily shaped cuffs. Covet coating is the favorite cloth for these costumes, d the new colors are very soft and pretty, notably the blues and tans; and there is no better material for ng wear, being at once light, cool and durable. / A pretty Parisfan toilet is of a brown and white checkered silk, in glace. the drooping shoulders in the front and muslin cuffs of exquisitely clear, fine muslin, and the box plest is trimmed with muslin that peeped from beneath large black reveres; black crepon f over it from the throa The_favorite skirt trimming seems to be insertion laid over black satin, but for the most part the skirts are absolutely plain. This check dress,” like many models shown, had a double collar edged with lace. Crepons continue to be the rage, new de- signs almost daily market. A gownis_thus described, made of a blue crepon, in the depths of the wavy lines here and there glistens a sequin. The bodiceis covered with a net closely traced with iridescent blue sequins, and showing that the lining beneath hasstripes of cream colored lace. The front is white satin, embroidered in iridescent blue beads and sequins. The skirt is a triumph in cross cutting. Many skirts are now box- vleated in the iu"k. East three things are noted—the large lisse ruffs, generally black, with colored flowers, scarlet and purple; the introduction of white lace on black or colored capes and mantles, either as rows of lace insertion or square trimmings of lace or embroidered muslin covering the shoulders, mostly having a bouquet of ar- tificial flowers attached somewhere; and lastly the polichinelle bonnets, which are described as being something like the old chapeau bras. Some are made in black lace or wired jet; many are mainly com- posed of flowers, but is a style which will soon become common. A truly recherche headgear is composed of metal paillettes, like the scales of a salmon, covering the top of the head and falling in_points, di- vided by ostrich tips, two standing erect on top. Rnuther bonnet has a bow of vivid rose pink in the center, and black velvet mar- guerites on either side having light-green centers, they are backed by feathery gueras aigrettes. All millinery is extensiv trimmed dergone a new treatment. 5 colored and often shot. One hat of this kind has a brim made in loops and ar- ranged in pleats high up on one side, the crown of silk was beaded with gold sequins, a large cream lace bow standing boldly up at the back, intermixed with carnations of red, yellow and purple shades springing from a bunch of cool, green foliage. The crinoline lace is an important novelty this of jet between the pleats, and a large bow of ‘real Brussels lace in the front, inter- mingled with twisted jet. | market. 7 n | garment is described as being very pretty, |3t has a cape to thearmhole, which is tion, while simple, is effective. Apropos of jackets, capes and mantles, Miss Calhoun” wore in the play I have mentioned an opera mantle of biack satin brocaded with roses of a deep pink shade. | It has a_wide collar of Chantilly and a | delicate lining of rose pink satin, and was much admired. Muslin and lace promise to be much en evidence. It appears in some form in nearly all the new models as turned-down collars and cuffs, It is safe to say that this 1t has | a_deep box pleat | being placed on the | pouched, and the yoke piece is made of | at the back, and straw has un- | It is brightly | | yedr, and a bonnet made of it had leaves | A new jacket without sleeves is on the | [ have seen none here, but the | trimmed with rows of jet that also border | the whole garment, and this ornamenta- | The | Front and back views of an Inverness cape, cut very full, and which has an exceedingly stylish effect. This model is in cream reversible tweed, with a plaid Uining. It is also made in small checks, biscuit-brown, black and blue, for instance, with a plain lining. — - natural perfume, will be a favorite orna- ment and are already much worn. En%}lsh girls have for years adorned their hats with natural flowers. This is a good idea, as the change of blossoms renders it unnecessary to have such a large number of chapeaux, but it takes a long time to acquire the touch which is requisite to make the flowers take the re- quired position. Black stockings are becoming more and more artistic for evening wear, now being embroidered with wreaths of roses or violets, or,as I mentioned in a previous article, trimmed across the instep with an insertion of the finest lace. Speaking of gloves, glazed kid is once more preferred to the dull. Silver buckles will continue to be much worn and are prettier than ever. One of the newest presents for brides- maids are minute watches attached to gold loveknots, to be fastened to tlie side of the bodices. MARCELTA, An Artistic Hat. THE LATE MR. CHARLES WORTH. If any contemporary character deserves an obituary notice in @ fashion page it is I Charles Worth, the famous costumier, who | died last week at Paris at the age of 76. | He was a native of Bourne, in Lincoln- | shire, where his father was a solicitor. As | ayoung man he went to London and en- tered the establishment of Messrs. Mar- shall and Snelgrove as an apprentice. There he remained for seven years, doing desk work, and having but little opportu- nity of showing his special talent besides in suggesting modifications to adapt French confections to English taste. Finding Lon- don too narrow for his genius, Worth went to Paris to study fashions. For some time | he bad to battle with poverty, but at last managed, in 1846, to enter the old-estab- lished house of Gagelin, who at one time had Marie Antoinette as a customer. Having made the fortune of his employers, he asked to be waken into partnership, ueens and princesses of Europe except ?lueen Victoria, who never honored, him *with her patronage. After the republic had swept away the Napoleonic dynasty the Americans made up for the loss of the court, and the establishment in the Rue de Ia Paix continued to prosper. The prices of Worth’s creations were high, as his | modes were exclusive. For an ordinary silk evening dress his usual charge was from £50 to £75. The court gown he made for the Dowager Empress of Russia on the occasion of her coronation cost £4000, and some years ago a Peruyvian heiress pald £4800 for a gown richly trimmed with costly lace. The great “‘couturier” resided through- out the year at his country-seat near Suresnes, but every day came to his es- tablishment in the Rue de la Paix early in the morning, and never went home until 6 or 7 at night. He continued this personal supervision until a few days before his death, while the executive part of the business was left to hissons, Jean and Gas- o [Exquisite evening gown of white satin, sleeves and draped trimming of violet velvet; rare old point de Venise adorns the waist and rich sable-edged the skirt and passes over the shoul- ders. Violets must be worn to complete the artistic effect. oryery this end and are the direct road to success. Beauty, again, secures for its possessorsa distinct popuiarity in society, and when these three gifts are united the position is exceptionally strong and commands suc- cess, says the Queen. . As regards the individuality of society women apart from surroundings what aualities are best suited for winning the race and reaching the goal? Does the vivacious and merry, animated and dem- onstrative woman or the reserved, self- contained and éomposed one come most to the front, and gain the greatest number of social laurels? ~ Placing them side by side, and judging from results, the permanent gains are to the latter. Women of this order are pre-eminently successful on various counts; whatever i lacking in them of brilliancy and animation, and even of brain power, is counterbalanced by an amount of persistent perseverance that produces a slow but sure effect. An amus- ing woman is led away from her point by the talent she possesses, she is delightful comvany, but she does not inspire the reli- ance upon her or the belief in less clever woman does, while from a marriageable point of view a woman who sees the humorous side of every situation in daily life is not the one a man desires to make his wife, and a woman without a scintillation of humor in_her composition is chosen before one who is dangerously bright and clever. For why? Most men look for a haven of rest when entering into matrimony and prefer a placid and re- served woman, even to insipidity, to one wbi;ose conversational powers are undeni- able. Again, strong-minded women, with an assertive manner of their own, are not popular with young men as possible wives; the fear of being kept in order outweighs | the advantage of personakcharms later on | in life. One of these same young men | regrets, after all, perhaps, he did not marry | a woman of this type when he had the chance, as she would have prevented his | committing many. deplorable mistakes. | ““Then, alas! I did not wish to be kept in order,” he plaintively remarks, and most young men are of the same way of think- ing. The exceptions, however, are when a | shy and silent man is captivated by a rather boisterous and high-spirited, good- | looking girl, or an extremely weak and vacillating man is charmed by the wonder- | | fut des n of character displayed by a | woman with a strong will of her own; but | these instances are beside the actual ques- | tion and almost outside of the| rule. These suitable partners in life | are very rarely to be met with. It| is the placid woman who scores the great- | est success in society. Her husband is under the spell of her influence and never is attempts to evade or contest it; her will law, and all that she projects and de is carried out within the region of pos bility. Perhaps the secret of her suprem- acy is that she is an unknown quantity; she suggests the probability of there being | a depth to her character not _easily fathomed, of there being so much in her if the right note were only struck to sound it. As a girl thisfif}»cully and unruffied composure attracts many suitors; as a woman, it secured her a firm footing in | society, and the circle to which she be- | longed believed in her to any extent, and | was not surprised at the strides she made | in popularity and to see how easily she grew toward the light. | 0f mediocre women there are many, and {it is to them the greatest share of social disappointments fall. Their mediocrity consists partly in being neither one thing nor the other—not amusing nor brilliant, | but merely talkative; chatty, if not gos: | sipy; not attractively placid, but only dull an ommonplace; and, given surround- ings equally moderate, what wonder is it that they find their level in society, and, as a natural result, do not “‘geton.’”” Origin- ality is a gift that wins for its possessor quick and almost 1stant recognition; but 50 few women can actually lay claim fo it; | counterfeit originality generally amounts to nothing more than eccentricity and un- conventionality, and, unless supported b; great wealth or acknowledged beauty, so- ciety soon puts the right name to it, and it is not too tolerant of it in any case where or when it comes to the front. _ Literary women are now becoming a large battalion in themselves, and soclety | could hardly be considered complete with- { out their presence. Then, aiso, the wives of distinguished men take quite front rank in society, and enjoy a prestige by reason | of the names they have rendered con- | spicuous by the talents of their husbands. | As regards ‘‘getiing on in society,” the | race is not always to the swift; some havi a good start, and yet remain far behind | others, not well placed at the be%ilming, get a front place in an incredibly short | time, or they work out the proverb that | “‘everything comes to him who waits.” GRAINS OF GOLD. ‘ There are two things to be dreaded, the envy of friends and the hatred of enemies. All generous companies of artists, au- thors, philanthropists, men of science, are, ' l;ner that the | W \ N Q % A | be attained by selfish requirements from | | sort of a character he has to deal with. THE VERY LATEST THING FROM PAR or ought to be, societies of mutnal admira- | tion. A man of genius, or any kind of | | superiority, is not debarred from admiring the same quality in another, nor the other from returning his admiration. )’ | i | | On the husband, as being the higher power, lies the chief responsibilit curing domestic happiness. for se- This will not others. On the contrary, the husband | must use consideration and self-denial and | expend time and money for this purpose. | Frankness and openness are the natural and healthful atmospheres of goodness and strength. Were a]l men perfect there would be no reserve, for there would be | nothing to conceal. Fach would be sure of sympathy and a{;}gr(-tintiun for himself | and be generous in bestowing them upon | others. ‘ The great Cecil Rhodes is a man of very simple tastes, remarkably unaffected and | vlain spoken. He has an iron will but a soft heart, and is a_philanthropic dreamer as well as a man of deeds. When quite a | child he showed extraordinary energy and | concentration, and always carried through | successfully whatever he undertook. If| he fought another boy healways beat him, | and in games his side invariably won. Mr. Rhodes judges men very quickly, | and by their faces. By merely looking at a man once he can make up his mind what YALFE’S Almond Blossomm Complexion Cream | the soft, dimpled, rose-leaf cheeks | of a precious little baby ? Every { woman will gladly admit—noth- |ing. What would you give to Once a friend wrote to him asking him to | > 4 New Style of Collar. What is more beautiful than’ do something for a young man who was | anxious to go to_South Africa. The king | of the Cape replied to this effect: ‘“‘Send | me his photograph, and I'll let you know by return whether T can do anything for him or not.” Robert Browning, the poet, once told us how he had been to see a certain Irish lady of title, who shall be nameless, and this lady prided herself very greatly upon her collection of autographs. “He asked her to Shw Hiibr $hiok:isi8e pried! the most; when to his amazement she showed him hree of Marwood, the executioner, father and son, with Gladstone’s visiting card be- tween them. Browning asked her how she had obtained them, and she told him that | she had written to Marwood asking him fot a piece of a rope that had hung a man. He replied that he_regretted he could not possibly comply with her request, and ex- pressed very strongly at the same time his sense of its impropriety. Browning then observed that he considered that Marwood had thus shown himself to be possessed of a much higher moral sense than Lady Blank herseli. and when his request was refused entered | ton. His castle was a show place for Pati- the service of M. Aurely, who, with Mme, | sians and foreigners, and contained a mi: Roger, were the leading fashion-makers of | cellaneousand highly interesting collection the first years of the empire. However, it | of artistic furniture and bibelots. In one was not long before 1856 Worth founded | of the saloons each of the gilt Lounis XVI thefgreat firm in the Rue de la Paix with | chairs has a piece of. material inserted of which his name has ever since been asso- { which an imperial or princely robe has ciated. The funds were gro\'ided by a | been made, comprising, among others, a Swedish gentleman named Doberg, who | piece of the dress worn by the Empress shared the profits. | Bagenie at the Universal Exhibition, a Soon after M. Worth had started in busi- | piece of the Princess of Wales’ wedding ness by himself he was introduced to the | dress, another of the first gala robe made Empress BEugenie by the Duchess of | for the unfortunate Empress Charlotte of Pesigny and the Countess Walewska, and | Mexico, etc. atonce became the leading spirit in the | M. Worth was a kind-hearted man, and creation of imperialistic ion. The | very liberal, especially to those who in Empress received Worth almost daily in | their prosperous days had been his cus- consultation, and in most cases followed | tomers. On hearing of the ruin of one of those, he always wrote to say that they were welcome to an extehsion of credif, and a new supply to keep up appearances. —Queen. HARD TO DECIDE. From five o'clock to half-past five! From six 0'clocK 10 seven (Farewell the early morning drive) From eight until eleven. She lies awake, Oh patient one, ‘What was it S0 perplexing Aroused thee ere the day began? What is the probiem vexing? Is it some heartsick plaint she’s heard? Some lover's tale phrenetic? Or has her maiden soul been stirred By some sad sight pathetic? Far worse than this, to-night, in town She's going out a-dancing, And she is wondering just which gown Will be the most entrancing. Tox Massox, / D SRR Y \‘\ll::"; B W ARG IN SOCIETY. Zil TN 7 ,\\‘::N:tl\"\'\\ \\‘ A\ The question has been asked, Which is 11 TR \ considered to be the most popular type of “ \ "\\ society woman? Reading between the lines this might be taken to mean who ‘ gets on best in society? It is a matter of fact way, perhaps, of looking at the sub- ject, but it is actually the point at issue. To answer one question with another, it might again be asked, what is implied by “getting on”’ in society? Those who do not get on know a good deal about this depressing condition and could give the s summer these tucksand lace will -pi)ext on the newest shirts, and they will look very dainty when worn with a light open coat. Quite a new idea is the introduction into floral garnitures of real leaves finished so as to make them lasting. Bouquets and garlands of French flowers, with their best interpretation of what ‘“not getting on” signifies. Society poyulnrity is at- tained not by one type of women alone, but by many and most diversified types. One thing 1s certain, however, circum- stances and surroundings either create and foster popularity or are dead against its growth. Riches and and rank are, it goes Wwithout saying, the most sure means to his advice and adopted his ideas. Other leaders of fashion—Princess Metternich, the Empress Elizabeth of Austria, Mme. de Pourtales and a host of_royal and high- born ladies—looked upon Mr. Worth as an oracle in matters of fashion and implicitly obeyed his mandates. orth has made dresses for all the This gown is made of a transparent crepon of chestnut-brown, lined with old rose. The ;kfi'fin'r.norxrss, Prop'r, bodice has a seamless back of brown Chine silk with colored flowers upon it, which also forms a pleated fan on each side of the front below the shoulder, where the bodice crosses, and finishes inside the band of the skirt with a paste buckle. The yoke was made of ecru em- broidery, worked in colored sequins catching the tones of the flowers on this silk; the collar ‘matches this, and has a kilted tulle edge with ecru lace going round the back and fastening at the sides with buttons like those at the waist; the sleeves are of crepon pleated closely to the arm from elbow to wrist, and they hang over the hands in tabs lined with lace. have just such a complexion ? I can distinetly hear the echo of | every woman’s answer—every- | thing T possess. Now, my dear | friend, let me tell you a little secret that is not generally known. Mme. Yale’s Complex- {ion Cream will give you just isuch a complexion as babies have. Clear pink and white, fine-grained and beautiful—just such complexions as inspire the | divine feeling of love and make | sweethearts and husbands yearn for the tempting kiss. Mme. Yale attributes the beauty of her complexion to the constant | use of this delicious cream. Her fame has been heralded from ocean to ocean by all the lead- ing newspapers of the world, who publicly declare her to be the most beautiful woman on earth. Yale’s Almond Blossom Cream 18 PURE. It is cleansing, heal- ing and refreshing. Try a jar and be convinced and beautified at the same time. Price $1. For sale by druggists and deal- ers everywhere, or MME. M. YALE, Temple of Beauty, 146 State st., Chicago. REDINGTON & CO., Whol Drug- gists, San Francisco, are supplying th dealers of the Pacific Coast with all ef my remedies. A Skin of Beauty Is a Joy Forever. - T. FELIX GOURAUD"! N’ CREAM,or MAGICAL BPS‘A)";”}‘?%EEAI{: Removes Tan, Pimples, Freck. les, Noth Paicnes, Rash and 44 years, no other has, and is so harmless we taste it to be sure it iy properly made, Acce A. Sayre said to ) & indy of the haus- (a mgm) ‘A you ladies will use them, 1 recommend ‘Gourand's Cream’ as the least harmjul of all Skin preparations.” One bottle will last aix months, using it every day. Also Foudre Subtilg removes superfluous hair without injury to the 3 37 Great, Xor sale oy all Drugglsts and Fan S Gons oo ers throughout.ghe U. 8. Canadas and K usons 85~ Beware Of Base imitations. eward for arrest and proot of any one tellln: IEE sarve. HE LATEST DESIGNS In WOOLENS.--R0R SPRING 1895, HAVE ARRIVED H. 8. BRIDGE &0, 5, ke, o '« stairs, opp. Pal. Hotel