The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 17, 1895, Page 18

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MARCH 17, 1895. R Gown of shrimp-pink moire and painted moire, red blooms with greenery on a crevette | BY ground; trimmings of pink silk muslin, white lace and pink velvet véiled with lace. of moire finished with a deep pleated flounce of silk muslin, headed with a puffing of the Bodice composed of a back, front with darts, and sides of front, with fastening in Shoulder straps of lace-covered velvet, from which j lace forming a sort of collar describing a point in the back. same. Jront under a lace jabot. loons of painted moire. DANE FASHIONS LATEST FANGIES The season is now at hand when the winter gowns and wraps are laid aside, and most of them deposited in trunks with camphor. I used to fold my garments | mentioned last week, the | which is camefully, and having provided protection | from moths felt I had done everything necessary ; now I know better, and alway. rip up my gowns as much as pos this T mean that I always remove the drapery and rip off any lace, fur, jet or metallic trimming from the dress, for even if the skirt and waist can be remodeled the following season, the drapery will change in style. Then after the garment has been | in the same manner. The other was currant red and black, with handsome satin thoroughly brushed the drapery should be | smoothed, on the wrong side, with a mod- erately warm iron, and any spots or stains that can easily be removed should be at- tended to. Ether removes some, turpen- tine, alcohol and French chalk others. It White silk Simple gown for young lady. muslin over tafieta silk, pale pink or blue in color. all depends on the nature of the stains. When you have decided to have a dress cleaned let it be done before putting it away. Of course it is never wise to have a gown dyed in advance of the season in any color, as new shades appear every three months. . 5 5 Lace, jet and trimmings in which metals appear should be carefully stitched on to white tissue paper and then wrapped in it. Observing such simple things will save many a dollar. ) Your white silk gowns will not become yellow with age if pieces of beeswax, wrapped in silk, are placed in the same trunk, and blue cambric is laid over the ilk toilette. S‘Alcohol will stiffen and clean laces and veiling. I allude to black and white laces. After washing in the pure alcohol place the fabric between sheets of blotting pa- per (white) and lay them under a heavy eight. ? wM‘fmy girls complain of their patent- teather shoes cracking so I advise you all as soon as the shoes come home to rub, or have them rubbed, with sweet or castor oil. The oil should be applied with a piece of flannel. When you return from a walk be sure to have them first dusted, then oiled, then stuff them with paper to keep them from wrinkling. On ver, cold days have them slightly warmed before putting on, and always get a size larger than usual in patent-leather shoes, as the draw the sensitive feet immensely if at a 1 small. Treat your slisperg, in the same way. When shoes and slippers are too long stuff the toes with tissue paper to prevent wrinkles. K E Besides the lovely silk muslins with scat- tered pompadour flowerets, and the re- IELRY Bell skirt fails handsome Belt of velvet, collar and bal- | comes the news like silk called ‘‘crash a e of silk and mohair, elling in light colors, as are also of lace which are introduced at veiling for skirts. One season learning of pret- ts can leave so I‘iule Two French waists show satin ribbon can be used asa ne of these is a blue and gold made with three bouillonnes crepon lappe how well trimming. brocaded si down the front, divided by fillings of blue satin ribbon lined with yellow satin ribbon and appearing ond” the edge so that both colors show. The back was trimmed aulettes formed of black ribbon edged with red, the same bination forming the bodice garniture. ad a movable V-shaped front, ren- dering it useful for evening wear. 4 I cannot imagine a more charming gown for a debutante than one recently de- signed. It is of white faille, with® wide bands of lace insertion let into the skirt a jour, and the large sleeves are made of the same combination, while the bag- like front of the bodice was composed en- tirely of strings of white hyacinths threaded on silver, a band of .the same flower being carried over each shoulder. The swell New York modistes have im- ported a few white satin fronts for evening gowns, richly embroidered. One very beautiful one is owned by a young matron of this city, so some of you will see it be- fore long. One of these aristic fronts displayed lovely garlands of lilac and carnations in natural colors, interspersed with minute gold paillettes. Another was entirely em- broidered in roses, garlands of _gold sequins being _intermixed, while a white moire skirt had jet embroidery formed in stripes, between which were deep points of fine tabour work in pale dainty colorings, blue true-lover’s knots mingling with the flowers. Like all the latest de- signs this year, these embroideries start from the waist and descend thence fre- quently in points on the s| They are works of art. and with bright satin or vel- vet trains can hardly be surpassed in ver embroideries of all kinds e on light blue and other tones. y sts are trimmed entirely with garniture ready prepared to slip over the silk or satin. Par example, some hand- some shoulder epaulettes of the finest guipure, united by a band across the neck; falling from this is a continuous fringe of black rat-tail chenille, which forms a pouch trimming. Some beautiful fabrics for draping bodices are handsomely em- l»r'ly‘illx~rc-(l in pearls, forming grapes, with gold lea An English firm, world-famous for their smart dresses, have just designed one which is very swell. It is in the fashion- able shade of blue cloth. The jacket ends at the waist and fits closely, being short- waisted and fastened with a double row of steel-cut buttons. There is a habit shirt beneath, made of white moire, with a box- {;landown the center fastened with antique uttons; a cleverly arranged cravat of lace descends from the neckband and surrounds the box-plait. It is a simple gown, but ad- mirable in its simplicity. A green serge model has an original skirt which opens on the hips to show a green underskirt, the serge forming points back and front, npparehlfy fastened to the bodice with large buttor the point is sufliciently wide to form three narrow box pleats. The waist has a full vest of lighter green, over which comes large pointed revers and a sort of pointed habit-shirt, made of the darker green serge, through which the lighter green shows, The large, full sleeves have cuffs turned down over the hand. The shade known as ‘“pain_brulle,” or ‘“burnt bread,” enjoys popular favor. A pretty skirt of this shade in cloth was draped on the right side, di playing at the foot the new ‘‘punched-out’ cloth of a green shade embroidered in jet; it had also side panels of the green; the bodice took the form of a cuirass made of the open-work green cloth. The waist- band was of jet laid over green. Tam so fond of tea gowns that I never hiss a chance of describing one, and now I have 4 good excuse for I have read of one which is new in several particulars, Itis a handsome gown in primrose mousse- line de soie. This light material through- out is tucked horizontally, and between every third or fourth tuck ‘there isa band of embroidered tulle. This in itself is new, but newer still is an over bodice made a la russe, made of bright golden brown liberty satin bordered with embroidered tulle. It is described as being the exact reproduction of the loose side fronts of a Russian coat, and opens to show the & At the back continued to the hem of the skirt, uncon- fined at the waist by a belt of brown satin which passes beneath and ties in front with a large rosette at the back. The sleeves are of the same brown satin, slashed on the outside of the arm toward the back and showing the light gossamer material through. A brown satin ribbon goes around the neck, tying in a large rosette at the back. This gown is the work of a true artist. Pique will take the place of duck this summer and the coatee will supersede the Eton jacket in favor, so duck dresses made with Eton jackets have been and will be on the ‘‘bargain table.” Capes will hold their own so long as our sleeves remain expansive. A veri hand- some cape lately imported is of dahlia vel- vet, falling in ample folds and lined with satin and embroidered all over in van- dykes with jet. Useful capes and mantles for the coming season are being shown in dark crepon, trimmed with cascades and fillings of lace. In some of the latest capes white linings are used, and cheaper ones are shown ina rich make of velvet, with large bows of black satin om the shoulders, and these are lined with colored glace and show the latest novelties in cut and embroidery. It seems but yesterday that we were told that we must_all wear our hatsand bon- nets as far back as possible, and now comes the latest information from Paris for spring and summer, and I will quote from the fountain-head: ‘‘The fashion of wearing the hat off the head no longer obtains among smart women, and the eccentric picture hat will probably disap- pear with this odious mode.” Everything will be placed well on the head and perfectly straight. On the whole the smaller shapes are likely to be the most recherche headgear. One of the very latest, and a favorite idea for the crown of a hat, is a large, shaded, loose-petaled rose, and where the trimming demands it a stray leaf of the flower is lightly inter- posed. This season everything to do with hats and bonnets runs in a trio. Feathers come in bunches of three, colors are com- bined in the same%riple number, flowers brim of the hat is three distinct pl A Another specialty of spring millinery is the size of the leaves and flowers. No one can guess what the flower par excellence is, for it _is the hydrangea in all wearable and available colors, but many tulips and 126 Toses are being used. The violets are already demode. The Cloth gown. for spring, with | woke of ‘rich brocade. Lower | or jet. part of bodice buttons diag- | cloth, heavily onally. The buttons should be | black silk very beautiful. re grouped in threes, and sometimes the | so'arranged as to form | o Black satin costume. Girdle | Plaitings of white and edged with | white fur over sleeves. Shoul- | covers bodice. Sleeves of white | der straps of the fur. i Dutch shape of the bonnet has become a Marie Stuart, retaining the crown, only slightly modified, and "expanding into a small point in front and at either side. A small lace curtain caught up in the middle of the back is added to many of the smartest bonnets, and in the case of fancy straws three upstanding ovals of it 1i¢ inchés wide form a trimming either in the front or back. The Welsh shape of hat, turned up at one_ side, will be much seen. A pretty model of this is thus described: - *“The Welsh hat of black chip had a garniture of black kilted met, edged with jet all round it. A brown osprey risesat either side from a nest of three little black tips. One of the large square bows, which is too neglige to be Alsatian and yet resembles it in size, is placed across the back.” MARCELLA. FUTURE OF OUR GIRLS. Don’t Bring Them Up as a Kind of Hot- house Plant. In Robert Grant’s paper upon “Income,”” mention was made of a father whose anx- iety all centered in the provision for the future of his girls, his_ belief being that to bring up a daughter in luxury and then leave her with less than $5000 a year was «g piece of paternal brutality.” Mr. Grant takes issue with this opinion, and I agree with him; though perhaps for somewhat different reasons and with a wider applica- tion. “Luxury” isperhaps an unfortunate word, since it may be interpreted into habits of folly or extravagance, which would, of course, take the force out of an adverse argument; but it means—what the father undoubtedly did mean—the enjoy- ment of opportunities for reasonable pleas- ure and freedom from care which money affords—then there could not be a more wrong-headed theory of the education of girls, or boys either, than that which would deprive them of these things, because the chances are that they cannot always con- tinue to have them. Not even the old ex- ploded theories as to the systematic physi- cal “hardening” of children were more erroneous. Teachers of hygiene no longer | talk about these as though warm clothing, ;proger food and civilized habits did not | produce a race better fitted to meet the physical struggles for life than do priva- | tion and chilliness: all the figures are against tnem, like those compiled as far | back as our civil war, which showed how | invariably the well-nourished troops from | communities where a higher standard of | living prevailed, outmarched, outstayed, | and—other things being equal—outfought | those to whom the ‘‘hardening” process seemed to have been most thorougE]y ap- plied by circumstances. | " In other than physical matters, the les- son seems slower to learn. Yet the capital furnished by a properly exercised but un- | worn, unfagged, undiscouraged mind and moral may be no less valuable than that an exhausted constitution. Gaudeamus r, juvenes dum sumus, is good moral hygiene. Those worthy citizens who still Qrcnch the gospel of Josiah Bounderby of Coketown are generally found insincere when brought to book, or else are among the men whom nothing educates. If my | choice were free, I would rather give my | boy the memory of a fairly happy and un- Cream white satin with pan- | els of pale green satin elabor- roiderd i | ately embroidered in soft Ori- embroidered i | ontal colgrings brightened by gold thread. Pale green chiffon satin. Dress of water-green satin. The tablier of the skirt is bordered down the sides with steel- embroidered velvet. Bodice trimmed to corre- spond; steel and paste fringe. Sleeves of pink silk muslin. White feather fan with blonde tortoiseshell mounting. Pearl necklace, Charming costume of sprigged silk muslin for a young lady, made over glace silk.—Re- vue de la Mode. A gown of sprigged glace silk. Bodice adorned with bolero of Renaissance guipure. Worth sash of white satin. Hat with wings and flowers. mousseline de soie back and front, but is Stylish tailor-made costume of lady's cloth. Skirt with flutings outlined with silk stitching. Short jacket, semi-fitting and erossed in front and cut to the figure behind, the basque form- ing deep flulmw. Turned-down wem collar and lay of cloth. Floral toque adorned with a. black aigrette. trammeled Iffe up to twenty, and leave him nothing then but a consequent but reasonable optimism, an unsapped courage and a disposition to”regard money as a means rather than end, than keep him constantly face to face with a specter of possible poverty, till him full of premature cares and leave him. five thousand or twenty-five thousand a year, and no mem- ories, or well-grounded” healthy tastes. or world to live in, indeed, except such as he commonly sets out to make for himself un- der these circumstances, which is worse | than nothing And though with girls there may be a very considerable difference in their powerto decide the conditions of their life by their own efforts, I cannot be made to believe that they will have less of Stylish spring callitig costume of crepon and velvet. ing 1o run upstairs or down to find some necessary article, the lack of which is gen- erally discovered about the time one gets comfortably at work. As to the way—as in most other cases, there Is a right and a wrong way of course, and to the novice a few suigestions may vrove useful. For woolen hose a large- ce"ed needle will be required, in order to thread the worsted easily, and the extra | size wili not matter, as it can be easily | snshed through the soft wool. For cotton | darning a long, slim needle will be found more convenient, as cotton will not pene- trate so easily. It is often found necessary in aarning large holes to draw the stockin, by afew ‘‘crisscross’ some bright colored into its natural snafie stitches taken wit! O\t\!i w uail AL \ AN i NN N\ X 10 AN W NI I Wy NN AN \ Wty i The cape is most effective. that power when need comes upon them because of a well-filled past and a well- rounded development among a certain de: gree of comfort. As a matter of fact and observation, among the girls one knows who have been left to make their living, after a youth in which some one has made it for them, which has made the best suc- cessof it? According to my own report those whose best practical capital has been what they absorbed rather, perhaps, than what they consciously acquired during their time of “luxury.”” Running over the names of a dozen who have made thém- selves a competence from nothing, Iam my- self surprised at the proportion which sup- ports my theory: and of the rest I doubt if any one attributed her success to the hard- ening of needless economies. Unhappily the most of us have no choice and must do our rinching whether or no; but if we have a choice let us not worry be- cause we have given our children more than they can always have. Itis possible to make worse investments for them than those in_the savings bank of memory.— Scribner’s Magazine. — DARNING OF HOSIERY. Footwear of Olden Times Compared With Recent Fads. In the time of our grandmothers, when hand-knit hose were the rule and not as now, the exception, when each fair maiden was supposed to include a pillow slip full, knit by her own nimble fingers, in her wedding outfit (or setting-out, as it was called in those days) it must have been considered necessary to keep in good re- pair what it cost so much labor to obtain, and doubtless the damsels of the olden times were equally expert with their knit- ting or darning needles. Nowadays, however, we live in an era of machinery, and the old-fashioned knit- ting-needles have grown rusty from dis- use. Noris this to be wondered at, since machine-knit hose have about reached perfection, and one can please herself in the selection of her hosiery according to her purse or fancy, finding an almost end- less variety, from the coarse woolen hose, adapted to men’s wear under the heaviest boots, to the dainty silken hose of every variety of shade and color to match the costume of the fastidious belle. Itismot surprising that knitting-needles are super- seded; but as yet no inventive genius has come forward to present us with a patent hose-mender or ready-stocking darner that has been found })racticable, and since the toes and heels of the present generation are no less aggressive than those of the for- mer it still remains necessary to repair their ravages, especially in the case of ex- pensive stockings. Almost every one ean darn, butall do not darn neatly. This should not be as- scribed to the difficulty of the work, but to the prevalent idea that itisa waste of time to take gains with the stocking mena- ing. A notable housekeeper recently con- fessed to a reluctance in attacking the stocking basket, owing to a custom of de- ferring the task to the “‘last minute,” and not infrequently sitting down on Saturday evening before a pile of mutely reproach- ful hose, sadly ‘““gone at the heels and out at the toes,” feeling that the last, but by no means the least, of the weekly duties must be accomplished. While we can fully sympathize with the victim under these circumstances, we would whisper in her ear, ‘‘Don’tdo it again.” That is, do not acquire the habit, for a habit is, of in- cluding mending of any sort in Saturday’s occupation. It may sometimes be unavoid- able, but the feeling of satisfaction in- vnrisbl’y felt in getting the week’s darning off one’s hands will amply compensate for any effort in bringing it as near the early part of the week as possible, and the best time to give the hose the necessary atten- tion is'as soon as the laundry is Teceived from the weekly wash. So much for the time of hose-darning, and nowa word as to the ways and means. The means are of prime importance, and here as elsewhere the mistress of her work will have a full supply of the implements necessary for ifs accomplishment. Her darning bag or basket will contain, with the various, balls of darning yarn, both cotton and worsted (and silk, if s1lk or lisle thread hose find their way to the basket), a half-dozen darning-needles of different sizes and lengths, a medium-sized darner, besides a thimble and a pair of shears, which are to be the exclusive property of the mending basket. The reason for this is obvious. When one is sure she has at hand everything needed for an hour’s in- terview with the darning basket it may be taken to some cozy corner for real enjoy- ment, with no uncomfortable fear of hav- yarn from one side of the hole to the other. f this is not done when the darner is in- serted it will be likely to stretch the edges around the hole and increase its apparent size, which will cause the darn to presenta bulgy appearance. In fine darning these stitches may be pulled out after the work is finished, and in this case they should be taken with the bright-colored threpd to make them distinct from the darn. In putting in the foundation of a darn use for woolen hose adouble and for cotton hose a single thread. Itis chiefly impor- tant here to draw the threads evenly, that is, of even tightness, as the ]enfit may vary with the worn condition of the stock- ing near the darn. Care should also be ex- ercised that from whatever side the stitches begin they reach exactly opposite, and are set at equal distances apart. Itis by cnreiu]x attention to the little de- tails that smooth, neat darning is accom- lished. If the foundation is carefully one the work may be easily completed, since this consists only in crossing the stitches already made with others inan exactly opposite direction, forming a lat- Hisewark byltaking flie nesqle tider fthe first thread and over the next, reversing the process each time across. In the course of washing and drying, cot- ton hose especially are apt to get quite NOVEL DAY AND EVENING SLEEVES. Fig. 1. Leg o’ mutton type in faced cloth, edged with fur or feather trimming and set off with bright facings in the new checked silk covering the slashed revers, through which peeps out the cloth puff. Fig. 2. Double-puffed sleeve in figured China silk or vicuna cloth, trimmed with flat rounded epaulettes and close wristlets in shot terry velvet. Fig. 8. 1830 evening sleeve. Double bun- shaped puff, headed with#silk ruching, and slightly " drooping to display the shoulder, which s shelered by the fan-pleated epaulette stretched on wire.—The Queen. out of shape, and these must be carefully pulled back into shape again before com- mencing to darn them. Do not trim the worn edges about the hole to be darned, as this makes a smooth line between the stocking proper and the darn, the size of which is thus greatly in- creased. Of course, the finer the stocking to be mended the finer should be the darn- inf material and the smaller the needle. 't is well tosay to the beginner, try to | bring your work to that state of perfection that renders it delightful, for you will never be ashamed of the ability to darn your own stocking in such a manner that you wiil not be afraid of *‘putting your foot init.” 1t is invariably true that we all enioy doing what we can do well, and it is only by doing one’s best that a fair degree of excellence is attained, and the work thus made agreeable, and unless one’s purse is very long and cnrresgondin‘fly wide it will not always be possible to dis- Beqse with darning in its various forms.— hiladelphia Record. The Princess of Wales will proceed to Mentone, with her daughters, in the latter art of karch, where H. R. H. will meet er sister, the Dowager Empress of Russia, while her second sister, the Duchess of Cumberland, with her family, will take up her abode at the Cap Martin Hotel for a fortnight in April. The Empress will ar- rive first widthhher fiops;mpt\get;onélfrince eorge, and her Majesty and the Princess Wg ihmr ivi G of Wales will spend in the Riviera. This artistic gown is from a celebrated Paris house and is unique in design. The cape of white velvet is_embroidered in black, outlined with silver, and. finished. with full rufes of black Chantilly lace.—Revue dé la. Mode. YALE’S Almond Blossom Complexion Cream What is more beautiful than the soft, dimpled, rose-leaf cheeks of aprecious little baby ? Every woman will gladly admit—noth- ing. What would you give to have just such a complexion ? I can distinctly hear the echo of every woman’s answer—every- thing I possess. Now, my dear friend, let me tell you a little secret that is not generally known. Mme. Yale’s Complex- ion Cream will give you just such a complexion as babies have. Clear pink and white, fine-grained and beautiful—just such complexions as inspire the divine feeling of love and make sweethearts and husbands yearn for the tempting kiss. Mme. Yale attributes the beauty of her complexion to the constant use of this delicious cream. Her fame has been heralded from ocean to ocean by all the lead- ing newspapers of the world, who publicly declare her to be the most beautiful woman on earth. Yale’s Almond Blossom Cream 18 PURE. It is cleansing, heal- ing and refreshing. Try a jar and be convinced and beautified at the same time. Price $1. For sale by druggists and deal- ers everywhere, or MME. M. YALE, Temple of Beauty, 146 State st., Chicago. REDINGTON & CO., Wholesale Drug- gists, San Francisco, are supplying the dealers of the Pacific Coast with all of my remedies. A Skin of Beauty Is a Joy Forever. R. T. FELIX GOURAUD’S ORIENTAL CREAM,or MAGICAL BEAUTIFIER., Removes Tan, Pimples, Freck. ~* B les, Moth Patches, Rash and Skin diseases, and every blemish on jbeauty, and defies detection. “On ity virtues it has stood the test of 44 years, no other hes, and is sa harmless we taste it to be sure it ig properly made. ) G Purifies ss well as Beautifies the Skin. tinguished Dr. L. A. Sayre said to ,—1 & lady of the Aaut- patlent): “As you ladies will use them, 2 recommend ‘ Gouraud's Cream’ as the least harmjud of all Skin preparations.” One bottle will last six months, using it every day. Also Foudre Subtile removes superfiuous” halr without injury to the skin, FERDT.HOPKINS, Prop'r, 37 Great Jonesst.,N.¥. For sale by all Druggists and Fancy Goods Dcz- ‘ers throughont the U. 5., Canadas and Europe. 85~ Beware of Base imitations. $1000 Beward for arrest and proof of any one selling the same. wn (a Fo: every Pain, Colds, Sore Throat, Broneh ""’En‘?m‘“'x' ietaa Ny for Eawel’ Faine; Diavsiema 8 . internaily for and 50 cents. R Fever.