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TuE O SUNDAY The “Harem Veil” Is One of the Season’s Striking Innovations The Bastern Effect off This Cap Is Helghtened by the Very Odd Reproduction of am, \ Oriental Weapon in the Trimming. How the Spirit of the Orient Has Been Skilfully Employed to Give Headdresses, Gowns and Evening Wraps Surprising Novelty and Richness v LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous “Lucile” of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each ‘week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styles for well-dressed women, Lady Daf-Gordon's Paris establishment brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Dufi-Gotdon's American establishments are at Nos. 37 and 39 West Fifty-seventh street, New York, and No. 1400 Lake Shore Drive, Chicago. By LADY DUFF GORDON (“LUCILE”). Winter's modes. It asscrts itself in the prevalence of rich brocades. It is seen in the Oriental effects of evening wraps. The headdress is especially significant of the East. The harem veil is something' known hereto- fore only in literature or by occasional represen- tations on the stage. This Winter, for the first time, it will be a yart of the adornment of women of the West. At one of the smantest dances on Fifth avenue this Autumn, beawx mhde their obeisance to a partner who looked at them as the shy violet of the harem looks at her lord, through a bandage of veiling placed across her eyes. It is the same mode of face drapery shown in the photograph reproduced on this page. Sur- mounting it is a modified crescent in pearls. Various forms of veil will be used, according to the taste and the ingenulty in mdaptation of the wearer. The encircling band of ribbon or of jewels is again to be seen in the evening. A few seasons ago the Greek fillet was popular. This Winter it will be of the Oriental nature, for evén a fold of silk or a band of velvet ribbon has a barbaric jewel or design to add \its mote of rich- ness to the original simplicity if;that decoration by the Greeks. 'Even where it might be expected lemst the Ori- ental note is struck in dress. It appears in the metal trimmed tuft of a fur cap. ‘The crown of a cap, shown on this page, is of net embroidered in a conventional design in silver beads. In front s a semi-military ornament ot ribbon and silver wire, topped by a bit of the same kind of fur as that which outlines the crown of the cap and which is carried up'to its top. shcross the crown, which settles closely and comfortably up- T'HE influence of the Hast persists in the ,on the head, making a charming outlime for the face, is carried a loose fold of velvet of the same color as the fur. The colors—black and silver— are among the favorite combinations of the Winter. The sumptuousness of the East is strikingly apparent in the wraps worn to operas, to dinners and dances. Manufacturers are rivalling each other in the production of rich stuffs, and no woman seems to practise economy in the direc- tlon of her after 6 o'clock cloak. An example of this richness i8 a long loose cloak of gold net worn over a velvet gown. In previous seasons the material itself would have been regarded as rich enough in effect. This Winter the gold and sllver nets in wraps or gowns are finished with an edge of silver gold ribbon, as carefully bound as though it were the braid with which the tailor finished your street suit. From the front and in the sweeping point at the back long gold tassels depend. Of velvet brocades, the design picked out with silver or gold thread, there {s no end. Every woman who can afford it has at least one such gown. The brocade ap- pears also in cloaks. A handsome cloak is fash- foned in velvet and bro- cade. The sides and tront are of vélvet. The tan-like inset in the back, and the border around the edge of the cloak and tasténing it in front, is of the brocade. The velvet Is of purple, the brocade of purple and gold. Copyright, 1916, by the Star Company. (Ghreat Britaln Rights Reserved. A - EE MAGAZINE PAGE This Cloak of Cloth of Gold Gives an Effect of Oriental Richness Over a Blue Velvet Gown.