Omaha Daily Bee Newspaper, December 5, 1915, Page 29

o THE OM [} One of the New Hooped Effects of Silver and White Brocade; Black and Silver Bodice (“Lucile” Mode! Another “Hooped” Skirt of Flowered Moh (“Laucile” Model) By Lady Duff-Gordon “LUCILE" HAKESPEARE says “A rose by any other name would smell as sweet.” Dame Fashion says & dress by any other means must stick out as much. It seems to me ridiculous this outcry that one hears on all sides against hoops —especially when one comes to consider that the only reason tor their being tabooed is in the name. A taffeta dress with yards of horsehair wadding, and the goodness knows what, ruffied into the side of it to give it the necessary stick-out effect, is worn by every other woman of to-day, but were it to be substituted by a light feather-bone frame they would immediately be cried off, because the same frame is called 2 hoop. Of course every new fashion is to be ridiculed in the papers and on the stage, as is every other thing that is attractive and perheps & little strange at first. 'Who will ever forget the caricatures and the amusing allusion on the vi SUNDAY BEE MAGAZINE PA@__] Party Gowne ADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous “Lucile” of London, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this newspaper, presenting all that is newest and best in styler for well-dremed women. Lady Duffi-Gordon's Paris establishment brings hee into close touch with that eenfi~ of fashion, against the enormous “Merry Widow” hats and the skin-tight “Bobble skirts” of a few seasons ago? Crinoline of to-day myst run the same gauntlet of her slender sister of yesterday, but to a dressmaker the really amusing part is the stout lady ‘who would not wear the tight skirts because they showed how fat she was, and will not wear the full skirts because they make her Jook 8o fat. What is one to do for the poor creature 1f she will be fat? Also let me add before describing my little selection of party gowns that another thing that amuses me intensely is the use of the word “vulgar” applied to dress. When one re- calls our shy grandmother who swooned from shock regularly three times a day wearing a hooped skirt (mark the differ. ence—~hooped skirt, not hoops) and her bodice tight end pointed, with both her shoulders actually bare, and then think of the ladies to-day riding astride at a horse show, with their clgarettes and their cocktails, considering a frock called a hooped skirt'as vulgar, and entirely overlooking the enchant- ing decorative value that it is to a gown itself, it is really amusing. Let me describe tp you some of the newest of these hoo effects. The lady with the half black and silver bodice a skirt of silver and white brocade looped up on the sides with silver lace, giving a demi-pannier effect, It is attached to a frame on either hip, but does not come around front and back :xnlny of the full skirts of to-day do. Her bodice Is of black d silver brocade on one side, the other side of flesh satin, while her little “bertha” is of the same silver lace as we find on the skirt, The little dark flowered taffeta is supported the same way, by & frame on the hips, which gives a slender line to the bodice of plain flesh satin, with & centeure of three shades of green in contrast with the bottle green flowered taffeta skirt, with the tiny opening of lace in the front. The little lady with the fur on her sleeves has & shaded rose tulle dress over an all-round hoop made of silk wrought flowers. She has a half-in-half bodice of pale rose satin bor- dered with fichu and flesh colored tulle sleeves caught above the elbows with the same fur. My remaining crinoline is of taffeta in four shades of blue, another all-round hoop. It has a little silver lace pron, and is belted with blue, lavender and green, with a bouquet of “Lucile” flowers. moment leave the crinoline. you noticed how readily New York women have udorud the Russian boot? I think thews most becoming as well as most comfortable, and in some cases a little more be- coming when laced on the inside of the leg for about five inches, just to tighten the waist of the ankle to one's own shape. These boots I have seen in enormous-varieties, and at the Rits the other day a woman appeared wearing & green velvet coat bordered witk chinchilla and a pair of green vel- vet boots topped with the same fur. It was enormously at- tractive, though of course I don't know as I should care to #ee the same boots walking along on the stone pavement. Still, when one steps from one's car straight indoors, they are certainly to-be considered. (“Luclle” Model) Shaded Rose Tulle Dress with Fur What S;;;es Think About Thunder, Torn A Crinoline Party Dress in Four Shades of Blue (“Lucile” Model) adoes and Ws By Prof. Karl J. Karlson, in Journal of Religious Paychology. CLIPSES had a terrifying effect E upon the mind of primitive man, and caused many, to us, peculiar stories to be invented as an explanation of the dreadful phenom- enon. Thus, the Chiquitas thought that the n.un "u hunted :cr:‘u .:ho sky by a huge dog, cau ai ™m untl] the blood dyed its red. In order to drive away the monster the people used to raise a frightful howl -.kn;l lamentation and shoot across the sky. The Caribs thought that Maboys, hater of all light, sought to devour the sun and the moon, and therefore danced and howled in concert all day or all night to drive him away. And the Peruvians imagined an evil spirit in form of a beast eating the moon, and therefore raised s fright. ful din and beat the doge to join in the concert. The same ldea is also found on the South. Sea Islands, where the sun and moon are supposed to be swallowed by an offended deity, but “who was induced by offerings to ofject them again. In Sumatra the one eats the other, but the inhabl- tants are abje to prevent it by & tremendous noise. In Hindu mg.‘ d ogy two demons, Rahn and spectively. TI in conformity Rahn is black and Xetu Is red, and the usual din 1s raised to drive them off,. But as they are only heads, their prey slips out as soon as swal- lowed. Another version of the myth says that Indra pursuing Rahn with his thunderbolt, rips open his abdomen 80 that the heavenly body gets out again, Ancient Mongols and Chipese me kind of clamor of ‘Blamese ;fi'g; in ”“::l to n;o ll'xro peans’ to predict the time and extent of an eclipse, that they the monster's meaitimes and could tell how hungry he would be. ‘The Romans flung firebrands into the air, blew trumpets and clanged brazen pots and pans in order to save the moon. And when the sol- diers made a mutiny against Tiber- fus thelr plans were frustrated by the moon, which suddenly lan- guished in the sky. In vain did they try to rescue it, for clouds came up and hid it, and the muti Deers saw that the gods had turned away from their plot But not only external influences or causes were considered as ing an eclipse Internal ca changes in the sun or moon m- selves were al belleved to bring ebout this phenomenon. The Caribs thought that the moon was sick, hungry or dylng. The Pesuvians im- agined the sun angry, and so hid her face in tota) darkzess to bring the world to an end. The Hurons fan- cled the moon sick and arranged & rather boisterous. concert, fn which men and dogs partiolpated, in order to hring about its recovery. The chanves of day and night, Summer and Winter, Spring and Fall, light and darkness, heat and cold are very closelv connected with the eclipse bellef. The one is over- come by the other, only to return with renewed strength to conquer the oppressor and to free and glad- den the heart of trembling human- itv, once more Ing the power ‘u; light, truth, righteousness and ite. The winds that break the forest, shake the rocks and penetrate man have also caused much wonder and speculation. Aeolus of old held the imprisoned In his dungeon tuned his harp after them, Aeolus play his harp. The Man| of New Zealand ride upon the winds and imprison them in thelr caves, but the west wind 1s too strong and too cunning, for he escapes, hides himself in his own cave and away. In India the Maruts, the storm- gods. assume after their wont the form of newborn babes, and perform the mythical feats of the child of Hermes, tossing the clouds over the surging sea. Boreas, barn of Astraos and Eos, causes the people to tremble with chills and hurry to their shelter. He chases the birde trom thelr Summer haunts to other regions and ties in asbestine bonds the soll and the waters, The Polynesian belleved that the wind-gods )ived near great rock which serves as a foundation for the worid. They held within themselves hurricanes, tempests and all destruc- tive winds, and employed them to punish such persons a8 neglected their worship, wherefors in stormy weather large offerings and liberal presents were brought them by pen- itent devotees. who were either in danger themselves or had friends in danger. The four winds caused s great mythic development among tho natives of America, in whioch they are personified as four brothers, or mythic ancestors, or divine parents of mapkinds. ‘The strong effect of thunder and upon the mind of primitive seen in the myths all over the world. Rig-Veda sings Indra's glory and aseri to him the “feats of the thunderbolt” He is called Indra of the thunderbolt. He smote Ahl and poured forth water upon the earth. When he hurls his thunderbolt men belleve in the bril- llant god and pay him bomage. Twashtar made his glorious bolt. The North. American Indians had much to tell about the thunder-bird, @s bad the ancient Greeks of the eagle of Zeus and the Scandinavians of the hammer of Thor, The Assiniboins have sees this wondrous bird and the qould show his foo the thun- der tragks, twen n the source of St. ver, o mighty ‘Tootooeh 1ling off in the sky, the flap.of whose coused thunder and whose . tongue is seen in the Jgh! Mandans heard in the thunder saw (n the lichtning the and wines and flashing eyes of aw- ful bird which to or is Manitu, the Great, o Ahts say that th were " th but A whale on which they fed and en- ticed one after the other to swoop down, when he selted them and, longing into the sea, drowaned them. ‘he last of them howaever, s wings t helxht, whete he still remains. though he es visits the earth, The Dakotas spoke about an old, large bird which the and whose velocity Is great, is wise and kind and mever does ahy harm. But the thunder is imitated and carried on bv smaller, young birds, which cause the rumbling nolse and the duration of the peals. Théese #re mischievous and will not listen to good counsel and therefors do some harm besides, but as a ri Indians are not afraid of them. ‘This exvlanation of the thunder and lightning which is so prominent emong the Indians, especially North Americs. Is found “:0 -3 8! in other places. Thunder and \:l: may be the messenger of the god lives far on high and so needs & senver, or else the god iteeit the Finnish poetry where he spi through the clouds and flery darts. When ] i loity sbode he strikes fire and we hear the nolse and call it thunder. ond see the ks and call them lightning. The Hindu Indrs the thunderbolt with ) rainbow. just as Uko in the saga and both smite thelr with these arrows. Closely connected with the and lightning is the rainbow, might ex . It constitutes, have seen. the bow of Uko and The lIsraelites called it Jahwe, the Hindus the bo: end the Lapps the bow the thunderer, who slays sorcerers that hunt for m tempest, or It was Iris. the messenger between man, that came down. I navia it was & bridge for . to travel upon and in Germany the souls of the just go over it to para dise. i i e 13 § §25:8 il